Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

2008 T&C stalling without reason

245

Comments

  • momstaxiemomstaxie Member Posts: 6
    Had this problem in Feb. No key would turn. Had it towed. As per invoice they removed ignition cylinder and dissasembled, cleaned and lubed tumblers and reassembled. $85.
  • ringonbobringonbob Member Posts: 7
    Did you ever come up with a fix? It seems like many people have had this problem, but no one comes back and posts their findings? Thanks!
  • ringonbobringonbob Member Posts: 7
    Did you ever come up with a fix? It seems like many people have had this problem, but no one comes back and posts their findings? Thanks!
  • ringonbobringonbob Member Posts: 7
    Did you ever come up with a fix? It seems like many people have had this problem, but no one comes back and posts their findings? Thanks!
  • ringonbobringonbob Member Posts: 7
    Did you ever come up with a fix? It seems like many people have had this problem, but no one comes back and posts their findings? Thanks!
  • francinfrancin Member Posts: 2
    I just had this problem on my 99 T&C, although my AC felt cold and I didn't think it was bad, it means the AC is faulty. They replaced my AC and now the flashing has stopped ($300).
  • francinfrancin Member Posts: 2
    I have had this ongoing problem for a year now. The car will be working great, then all at once won't start. I'll be driving down the road and the gages will all stop working, then 1/2 hour later, they will just start working again. I have noticed that if I don't use my transmitter to lock and unlock the car, then the problem happens less often. My husband said all along that it was a communication between the alarm system and the car. He believed that the instrument cluster had to be changed which has the circuit board in it. The car was towed to a chrysler dealership and $800 later with a new battery, alternator, surpentene belt and AC, the problem came back after 2 weeks. When my husband took it there he told them he felt it was a communication problem, but they treat you like you don't know what your talking about. Now I see there are post saying that it is the circuit board in the instrument panel. My husband is going to get a instrument cluster and change it himself. He has a college degree in mechanics, but he doesn't do it for a career, but he's going to do this himself because he frustrated with this ongoing problem. I will post and let you know if it works.
  • happyjack3happyjack3 Member Posts: 1
    hi all, i have a 98 town & country doing the same thing. very erratic. i did find a corroded battery cable (+) that was correded through on the one that went to the fuse box and and fixed that (new cable is over $1k from chrylser becasue they dont make it and you have to buy the entire wiring harness. i spent 8 bucks and got a splice kit....i thought that was the problem but was only a problem and the original one is still there. btw, on mine the "alarm set" is on the dash when sitting still and it wont stay running for more than a second after starting. use of key fob or not doesnt matter. someone has to have found the fix given all the people who have the problem. it is my kids car that we have had since new so not worth spending thousands on but is still a great teenager car. it also does the run rough and speedo go on and off if it happens while driving as well. i am totally convinced it is related to the alarm like everyone else says. i will post if i find any thing on my scott.
  • greggloajgreggloaj Member Posts: 3
    A couple weeks after posting my response dated 20 July, my van finally tripped code 15. I replaced the VSS and spliced in a new plug (no choice since the plug connection is different from the old one). Anyway, the old plug was corroded and full of grease/oil--suspect this was the problem all along with the speedometer dropping to 0 and momentary loss of power. Since replacing these parts (VSS and plug), my van has not experienced the same problem...
  • ehudwillehudwill Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2000 Chrysler Town and Country that has started giving us problems. About six months ago some lights were left on and the battery died. Since then we have had problems with it needing to be jump started periodically. We just got a new battery yesterday because the battery died and we had no power, no dinging when the key was inserted nothing. Right after installing the new battery I walked out of the car parts store and tried to start it. Nothing again, not even the dinging. I went back in and told the guy who had just put it in. He came out and tested the charge on the battery. It was a new battery so there was not problem there. Then he had me crank it. It cranked up perfectly. After he went in I turned it off and cranked it again to see if it was a fluke. It started right up. Today the same thing happened, no power. I had to jump it off. Some guy stopped by and said he thought it might be the alternator. I don't know, but am going to try that next.
  • ehudwillehudwill Member Posts: 2
    I replaced the alternator, $196.00, and the van is running fine. It was no too hard to replace myself. Only took a Saturday afternoon.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,789
    It may be a loose or corroded connection. Check your battery cables at both ends to make sure they are tight, corrosion-free, and in good condition. An alternator would not make any difference in terms of whether the vehicle starts. It also would not cause the battery to drain while not in use and if you received NO response from the vehicle when you turned the key, it would not take you from point A to B without hiccup during the previous operation. Additionally, a bad alternator will tend to allow the vehicle to die a convenient 3-4 miles down the road from where you received your jump-start!

    That is, if the problem you are experiencing is not due to a faulty instrument cluster (see other posts about this). :sick:

    Let us know if the van continues to run well for you with the replaced alternator.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • cstrakcstrak Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    My 98 T&C is in the shop with the same problem. He says he went under the fender area where the computer is and barely has to touch the computer and the engine quits. Does this mean maybe my computer is bad as well as the panel circuit board? My panel has been acting funny for 3 or 4 months too with the blinky lights and door lock/unlock going crazy saying a door is ajar. It acts up only occasionally then may do it for a week straight then be fine for a few more weeks. I think it is all connected. Did you get your fixed finally???
  • rknaussrknauss Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 2000 CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY MINI VAN....72209 MILES, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, NOT RUNNING PROPERLY, GAS MILEAGE DROPPED TO 9.1 MPG...DIO. SHOWS #2 CLYIDER NOT FIRING PROPERLY...DID A COMPLETE TUNEUP, COIL, FUEL FILTER,PLUGS, WIRES, #2 INJECTOR, INJECTOR DRIP CLEAN OUT, STILL NOT RUNNING PROPERLY,TOOK TO DEALER--SAME READING..#2 CYLINDER NOT FIRING PROPERLY....THEY SAID EITHER BURNT VALVE OR BROKEN VALVE SPRING.......TOOK BACK TO MY MECHANIC AND WE HAD THE FRONT HEAD MACHINED....REPLACED HEAD, NEW BOLTS, NEW GASKETS AND STILL NOT WORKING PROPERLY, NOW CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS BACK ON AFTER 50 MILES.......I HAVE $1200.00 IN THIS FOR REPAIRS AND STILL NOT WORKING PROPERLY..WHAT IS THE PROBLEM WITH THIS CHRYSLER......I HAD A 1991 PLYMOUTH WITH 200,0000 MILES AND NEVER HAD THIS MUCH MONEY IN IT FOR THE 6 YEATRS I OWNED IT....I DONT BEAT MY VECHILES BUT I DONT BABY THEM.....WHAT THE HECK!!!! COME ON CHRYSLER!!!!!!!!! :mad: :cry: :confuse: :confuse: :sick:
  • nchunternchunter Member Posts: 1
    Have you fixed your problem yet. My Town and Country started doing the same thing back in April, and we changed the battery, and had the codes reset. I though the problem was fixed until the other night when it happened again. Same situation where the engine would start then shut down with in 1 or 2 seconds. Did that 3 times then it would not even crank. After shaking the wires around the fuse panel down and waiting about an hour it started up and ran like normal. Took it to work yesterday and it ran great. Took it today and about 5 miles down the road my ABS light came on, then the tach and speedometer went dead. I turned around and took it home. Just a few minutes ago I went out and looked at it and it starts up and all the gauges but the Speedometer works. So getting back to my original question, did you by any chance get yours fixed yet?
  • reechisozreechisoz Member Posts: 1
    rchiii,
    your problem along with everyone else's is exactly what I'm experiencing with my 98 town and country. It started about 6 months after I bought the vehicle and I've had it for two years now. I had a problem initially with the ignition locking up and not being able to turn. We started using a hammer to give it a little "help" and that seemed to work. Now for the last year we have had problems with the car starting but dying after 1 or 2 seconds. I changed the battery but the problem persisted. I had the mechanic look at it and they determined it wasn't a problem with the starter. We have had the same problems with the ABS light and the tach and speed lights going dead as well. We still don't have it fixed.
  • mismailimismaili Member Posts: 16
    To all who share our starting problems, send your email address to mizafer@yahoo.com, I will send you an email with pictures of the the circuit board where the connections were re-sodered, and remedied the starting problem on his t/c.
  • mismailimismaili Member Posts: 16
    I didn't expect to get as many emails as I have, here is the url link

    http://ingriddijkers.com/CaravanPics.html,

    to see the pics to repair the Circuit Board, please no more picture requests,

    Thanks
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,789
    Hahahahahah! That offer of assistance went from "expect scattered showers" to "experiencing heavy thunderstorms" real quick! :(

    Thank you for the information, though!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    You could also post this as a guide. Start here: http://www.carspace.com/guides/
  • robopolorobopolo Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 Chrysler Town & Country Mini-van. A couple of years ago I started having problems with it starting. It would begin to start & then try to cutout for a few seconds & then die. This typically happened on very hot days. Recently it has gone to where the engine will crank but it will not start. If I pop the hood, open the relay box, remove the "Starter" relay, leave it out a few seconds, then put it back in place and crank it --- it will start right up. A guy at an Auto store said that it has something to do with the Safety Check circuit check that it goes through before starting. Please help. My local Dodge Dealer wanted to put a new computer in it??? Some how removing the Starter Relay appears to be resetting a circuit or something. Any help would be appreciated.
  • mikemeatmanmikemeatman Member Posts: 1
    I have owned my t&c for a few months now and the car has ran great, but lately when i go to start it, i get nothing when i turn the key. Sometimes it will take anywhere from 2 to 8 times then it will start right up. Can anyone tell me what the problem might be before i take it in, so i have some kind of knowledge of the problem. Much thank's for any input.. mike
  • bay021bay021 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1999 town & country with a 3.8 engin,it keeps cutting off on me,it starts right back up and runs fine, i changed all fuel related items but it still shuts off. can anyone help me?
  • adppatadppat Member Posts: 1
    I have 205,000+ miles on my 1997 Chrysler T&C van. Shortly after I rolled over 200,000 miles, the van started dying as soon as it was started up. I crank it back up and then it dies again. I usually have to re-crank it about five times then it will be fine the rest of the day. Sometimes it goes dead as soon as it is started up and then sometimes it will go dead about a mile down the road after it is cranked. Now the van has started making a loud moaning sound. Otherwise it is fine. I religously have the oil changed every 3,000 miles, as I travel quit a bit. Does anyone know what is causing this and what do I do to get it fixed please? Thank you.
  • kayode65kayode65 Member Posts: 8
    :( I have a T&C 2001 LXI, a few weeks ago I had the tires rotated and the oil changed. and while the guy was working on it, the flashers started blinking, the wipers going, the headlamps started flashing. I did not think anything of it at the time.

    Now my front blower fan stays on and cannot be controlled, this I put down to a faulty resistor, which I will pick up this afternoon for about 17 bucks from the dealer.

    However, there is a draw on my battery and the guy at the local garage said when I
    bring it in they will pull the fuses one by one until they find the culprit that is drawing from the battery. After he replaced the negative terminal on the battery, the van attempted to start itself without the keys in it. (Strange, but true).

    After I got home, I opened up the fuse box, disconnected the battery terminal, and when i connected back the terminal the van started itself and began to run without putting the keys in the ignition. I did not put it in the garage overnight so we don't all get carbon monoxide poisoning overnight.

    Has anyone had this in the past? Is it possible the guy at tires plus knocked something?

    Ah! also the van also has an aftermarket alarm system installed by previous owner, but which I don't use. Could this be the culprit? How do I disable this from the system.

    Any help or ideas appreciated.

    Many thanks
  • todd25todd25 Member Posts: 4
    Over the last six months or so, my 2004 Chrysler T & C has been stalling as I make right turns on uneven surfaces. It generally happens after I rapidly slow down to make the turn and the car will just go dead at the completion of the turn. I put it in neutral and it starts right back up and I continue. Dealership believes it is electrical but can't diagnose. They propose throttle bottle service and software update but still aren't sure. What gives????
  • roymarkoroymarko Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever get a reply or solution to this problem?
    I have a '99 town and country that starting to do the same thing!
    Any help would be much appreciated.

    Roy
  • todd25todd25 Member Posts: 4
    Roy - I would be happy to share with you the solution to my problem as I was beyond frustrated with this while it was occurring. The bottom line and as stupid as this sounds was that I had multiple keys, chains and a leather strap hanging from the "key chain" that was inserted in the iginition. When I made a right turn on uneven surfaces, my knee would "bump" against the excess keys, chains that were hanging. This would slightly turn the inserted ignition key backwards causing the car to stall. Currently, I only insert the key and have nothing else hanging from the ignition and the stalling has never happened again. That's it. Good luck.

    Todd
  • mbarlagembarlage Member Posts: 1
    What did you find out about your van's starting problem. Our van 1996 Town and Country has started doing the same thing as your van.

    Thanks,

    Marc
  • todd25todd25 Member Posts: 4
    There were too many keys and chains hanging from my ignition key. As I turned bumpy corners, the weight of the additional keys would slightly turn ignition key off. I just use one key now in ignition and it hasn't happened again.
  • mele503mele503 Member Posts: 4
    I need some help big time!!! The problem with my van is that yesterday I was on my way home and my van started to act up like it wanted to quit and was stalling as I was driving. I got it home but did this for abotu 6 mi or so. Some of the time it ran like nothing was wrong. Then when I got it home it stayed running/idiling while my mom got out but as I went to pull it into the garage it quit. I did get it restarted by pumping the gas several times. Than after I shut it off it restarted 3 times by doing the same thing. Now it only turns over and will not start at all. Oh yeah I should also mention that a few days before this happend I was driving and it acted like you know it had bad gas or something so I returned home than the next time I restarted it than it didn't do it but I thought it may be bad guess so I got some gas additive and used it. Than all of a sudden this happend yesterday. It drove fine all day with no issues until what I described above. Does anyone have any idea what the issue may be?
  • washingtonjackwashingtonjack Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 T&C and recently for no apparent reason, the van will just completely shut off while driving. This is a very dangerous situation as we never know when it will happen--the first time it happened on the freeway. We were told the battery is fine, we have had the waterpump replaced, and we have had the catalytic converter replaced in the last 6 months. After it shuts down, it will immediately start back up and then run fine for a few hours or even a couple of days, and then shut down again. I have seen similar posts--we are on a limited budget--does anyone have any suggestions on what this could be and how to fix it? Thanks
  • todd25todd25 Member Posts: 4
    I had stalling problems with my 2004 T & C. The bottom line was that I had multiple keys and chains hanging from the ignition key. The weight of the additional "stuff" would slightly turn the ignition off if you can believe it. The car would just go dead and then immediately start right back up and yes it was dangerous. I only use one key now with nothing hanging and the car has never stalled since!
  • ctcownerctcowner Member Posts: 1
    My T&C has a similar starting problem. Sometimes won't start after running it on a hot day, especially in stop and go traffic or after it's been idling for a long period. Doesn't happen when outside temp is below 50 or 60. That's half the year here. The other half I use the following workaround: I open the hood and rock the fuse box gently from side to side, close the hood, jump in, turn the key and it starts every time. I'm not a mechanic, but I believe my T&C shorts-out due to extreme heat around the fuse box. Also, the computer module is attached to the fuse box. Hey Chrysler, engine compartments are not good environments for computer chips and circuit boards! Hope this helps.
  • roymarkoroymarko Member Posts: 3
    You might have the fuel pump pressure tested. When they begin to go bad, they loose pressure. Under normal driving and in cool stop-n-go...they work fine. BUT, when it gets hot, in stop-n-go traffic, with heat build-up in the engine compartment, it will 'vapor lock'. Because the fuel pump does not have enough pressure to keep the fuel circulating and thus keep it cool, preventing vapor lock situation. This happened tome on my Astro Van. Well, just another 'real' possibility.
    roymarko
  • judger1judger1 Member Posts: 1
    Recent purchase from a dealer. Car was running great. Several days ago, the engine would not turn over. All other power functions seemed to work. Mechanic sayes he thinks I need main computer control module, but it is pretty expensive if that's not the real problem. Mechanic also said it started for him after tow but cut off and would not start again. Reading the postings, it seems that the computer control module normally is not the real problem? Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Rob
  • tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    Did they test the fuel delivery system? It could be something like a defective fuel pump or maybe even a simple and inexpensive solution like a dirty/clogged fuel filter.
  • mismailimismaili Member Posts: 16
    Check my earlier postings, after replacing the main computer module, battery, starter, and a dealer recommended BCM (body control module) which i did not due. I researched it online like you and found 3 others with the starting problem and the final resolution was the circuit board behind the instrumentation panel.
  • delaisladelaisla Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2007 town and Country and I had the same problem the day after we picked up the car from the dealer. My husband was driving the car and it shut down while he was waiting at a red light and my child was in the car. We brought it back to the dealer and they said the issue had something to do with the automatic starter that they installed and the ignition. Now we are having the same issue again. This time we brought it back and they said their was a problem with the charger and they replaced the battery. If this is a common issue shouldn't Chrysler be issuing some type of recall. It is my understanding that the body of the town and country has been the same since 1997. Does this hold true for the engine and circuit boards?
  • caravanaholiccaravanaholic Member Posts: 3
    I've been all over this forum looking for a final solution to a similar stalling issue... MISMAILI posted a great answer for cars not starting and 3X lockout issues in post #69. See http://ingriddijkers.com/CaravanPics.html

    My problem is stalling in a 2002 Grand Caravan. It's got 105K miles and dies at stop lights, going around corners and sputters when you put it in reverse. In neutral, the car maintains a constant 1000 RPM. Slide it into drive and apply throttle and it sputters (light surge and bucking) and then stall. It's fine if you press the accelerator (to keep the RPM high) while holding the brake and then slip it into drive. No problems on the highway. No observed decrease in MPG.

    It's been in the shop (local shade tree mechanic with 30+ years under the hood) and he's baffled. He's gone thru extensive diagnostics and replaced thermostat, manifold pressure sensor and given it a chemical fuel treatment. NO significant difference. It seems like some sensor is not working... not permitting sufficient fuel to flow when the transmission senses a load on it.

    Like all problems, it's tempermental and does not always act up when Mechanic is chasing the problem. It's been acting up since mid May... about 30 days of which it's been in his shop for 15 days.

    It's been a solid van.... but at 105K, this might be trade-in time. Any help is appreciated.
  • mjparisimjparisi Member Posts: 5
    The flashing lights does not mean that your AC is going bad. You can reset this without replacing your AC system I did it a couple of years ago and haven't had any problems since. They told me the same thing and I found out how to do the diagnostic test and it reset the system. You have to hold down the buttons in a certain sequence and it puts the system into a test mode, afterword reseting the system.
  • mismailimismaili Member Posts: 16
    Hey francin ,

    Do yourself a favor and get the instrumentation panel, ie... circuit board, its about $400 and make the dealer program it for you. Without a charge, since you have already paid for services/repairs that were not needed.

    Fortunately, for me, I had my mechanic do it for free. He happens to work for a Chrysler dealer.

    My starting problem has not occured since I changed the board. Good Luck

    Miz
  • mjparisimjparisi Member Posts: 5
    This is going to be somewhat long so for the faint hearted you may turn away now.

    :lemon: I have owned a 99 Town & Country Limited for about five years now, which I bought from a family friend with less than 50,000 miles on it. He was selling it because his wife had died and he had no use for her vehicle anymore. I bought it for what the dealer was going to give him on a trade for his new car. I have always had reservations about owning Chrysler products due to the horror stories that I have heard throughout my life. I decided to purchase this vehicle due to the immaculate condition of the vehicle and knowledge of the owner and ownership history. It was a local car and was completely serviced by our local dealer. On the day I went over to pick it up from our family friend, it started and stalled numerous times. It finally wouldn’t do anything so we had it towed to the dealer and was fixed under warranty. Needless to say this problem persisted time after time, sometimes not reoccurring for months, each time the dealership stating and reassuring me that, "They found the problem this time", each time tying it to a different part that they would replace under the warranty. The problems were always the same, the car wouldn’t start at times, the dash lights and gauges were inoperable at times, the car would stall or want to die while driving, and numerous times the entire dash would go completely blank. Then my warranty expired. I was now the recipient of each consecutive problem, diagnosis, and replaced part to the tune of Thousands of dollars, not unlike the stories that I have read on many blogs throughout the years. Believe it or not I still own the car. My thought was to get it running right and sell it with a clear conscience. I would never want to sell a car with this problem to someone else. I spoke to the dealership and the owner of the dealership who knows the car well and they stated that I should trade it in with them for a new vehicle. He also stated that he wouldn't be able to give me anything for it with its history. I was amazed that he would acknowledge this to me personally, the Owner of the dealership. He did say that trading it would be the best way to handle this situation. The only problem with this is that I wouldn't own another Chrysler product. As I have been sitting here reading through all of the blogs looking for an answer to my problem, I see my vehicles signs and symptoms duplicated over and over. I have thought about all of the people out there who, like me, have spent thousands and thousands of dollars of their hard earned money, not fixing anything, all with one hope in mind...That the car they bought in good faith would just do what it was designed to do, get them where they need to go. I, my wife and our now four children have been stranded, terrified and bilked out of much of our precious time and money. I have tried to resolve this issue with the dealership and with Chrysler directly. Chrysler either refers you to the dealerships, which are all independently owned and operated, or just hangs up on you. I have documented all of these instances with emails, phone calls, and recommendations from my own mechanic who is probably one of the best mechanics that I have run into in my personal 25 years of owning cars. He had to take it to the dealership himself because he couldn't figure out why the car would stay running after removing the entire key and ignition from the vehicle. He told me that the power to the ignition is back feeding itself from one or more locations for this to even be possible. He also stated that in all of his years of being a mechanic, he has never seen this. I have replaced the PCM, ECM, the fuse box, control panel, instrument panel gauge set, battery, ignition, wiper motor, and clock spring, sometimes more than once, and had the vehicle evaluated numerous times. My mechanic said that the wiring harness should be replaced, but stated that he is not sure if that would ensure the problem would be fixed due to the numerous electrical abnormalities that he has found with the wiring of the vehicle. I believe that Chrysler is well aware of these problems and refuses to acknowledge them due to the ton of revenue that it produces for them on an annual basis from each of us, and the insurmountable amount of money that it would cost them for the recall. I would love to find an attorney firm or group who would be willing to take the case and a thousand or so helpless victims that would band together and get what we all originally wanted...a vehicle that would drive with normal maintenance and the average occasional item that would go wrong that needed to be repaired. If anyone reads this and would like to send me your information, I will reciprocate and maybe we can get something done for everyone of us who has been misled, misdiagnosed, and overcharged for parts and labor we never needed and so ultimately our voices can finally be heard. For all of those who think they have fixed their vehicle because it’s been running fine for 6-8 weeks, I have had a month or two, sometimes three between shutoffs and stalls and now after five years it will just stop whenever it feels the need. They call it an intermittent electrical problem that they are “unable to duplicate”, however, they always get their diagnostic and parts and labor fees, even when they can't give you a diagnosis, and haven’t fixed the problem. How crazy is that. Could any of us run a business like that??? Best of Luck to all of you who seek a remedy to your continuous ongoing problems.
  • tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    All I can say is I think they should give you an award for the longest single paragraph I've ever seen on the CarSpace forums. My goodness. :surprise:
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Just because you have had problems with your van, it doesn't mean everybody does. I have a 2006 Caravan with no problems so far. If your vehicle was so bad from the beginning you should have sold it a long time ago and cut your losses. It doesn't make any sense to keep such a problematic vehicle for so long.
  • mjparisimjparisi Member Posts: 5
    You are absolutely correct, it doesn't mean that everybody does, however when you read the message after message of problem after problem all of the same exact nature it leads me to believe that there is an inherant problem within the product. Maybe you haven't read as many messages on multiple different sites like I have. As for selling my vehicle, I didn't sell the vehicle because I didn't want to pass the problems I was having on to some other poor unsuspecting sap who was like myself buying a car in good faith. You may not have a problem with that, but I did. Thank you for your thoughts though.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    I believe you are correct that one of the reasons the North American manufacturers lose so many customers is because they are slow to fix recurring problems in their vehicles. When Chrysler first brought out their 4 speed automatic transmission in the early 1990's, problems persisted over many model years. I had a 1995 Corsica with a 4 cylinder engine that had a head gasket problem that stretched over 5 or 6 model years. I believe these companies are so poorly run that it takes them such an extended period of time to resolve engineeering and design problems with their vehicles. Given the state of the economy, the price of gasoline, and the decline in auto sales, I will not be surprised if one of the Big Three (Ford, GM, or Chrysler) closes shop for good within the next 5 years.
  • mcdocsmcdocs Member Posts: 6
    '97 T&C. Service Engine light intermittent. Door locks and lighting acts up. Radio will shut off. Engine does not stop, but drive train stalls and lurches and speedometer turns of and on. So, similar problems. Did you find a solution? Thanks.
  • mcdocsmcdocs Member Posts: 6
    To all who have cranking (battery okay) but no ignition, my problem was the wiring to the fuel pump (located in the gas tank). The wiring can get damaged (intermittent problem) or completed disconnected (some sort of rodent had actually chewed through mine). Exhaust efforts to get the wiring repaired before agreeing to the much greater expense of replacing, which involves the whole gas tank. Hope this is helpful.
  • mcdocsmcdocs Member Posts: 6
    To all who have cranking (battery okay) but no ignition, my problem was the wiring to the fuel pump (located in the gas tank). The wiring can get damaged (intermittent problem) or completed disconnected (some sort of rodent had actually chewed through mine). Exhaust efforts to get the wiring repaired before agreeing to the much greater expense of replacing, which involves the whole gas tank. Hope this is helpful.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles