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2008 T&C stalling without reason

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  • I replaced the alternator, $196.00, and the van is running fine. It was no too hard to replace myself. Only took a Saturday afternoon.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,595
    It may be a loose or corroded connection. Check your battery cables at both ends to make sure they are tight, corrosion-free, and in good condition. An alternator would not make any difference in terms of whether the vehicle starts. It also would not cause the battery to drain while not in use and if you received NO response from the vehicle when you turned the key, it would not take you from point A to B without hiccup during the previous operation. Additionally, a bad alternator will tend to allow the vehicle to die a convenient 3-4 miles down the road from where you received your jump-start!

    That is, if the problem you are experiencing is not due to a faulty instrument cluster (see other posts about this). :sick:

    Let us know if the van continues to run well for you with the replaced alternator.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • cstrakcstrak Posts: 1
    Hi,
    My 98 T&C is in the shop with the same problem. He says he went under the fender area where the computer is and barely has to touch the computer and the engine quits. Does this mean maybe my computer is bad as well as the panel circuit board? My panel has been acting funny for 3 or 4 months too with the blinky lights and door lock/unlock going crazy saying a door is ajar. It acts up only occasionally then may do it for a week straight then be fine for a few more weeks. I think it is all connected. Did you get your fixed finally???
  • I HAVE A 2000 CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY MINI VAN....72209 MILES, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, NOT RUNNING PROPERLY, GAS MILEAGE DROPPED TO 9.1 MPG...DIO. SHOWS #2 CLYIDER NOT FIRING PROPERLY...DID A COMPLETE TUNEUP, COIL, FUEL FILTER,PLUGS, WIRES, #2 INJECTOR, INJECTOR DRIP CLEAN OUT, STILL NOT RUNNING PROPERLY,TOOK TO DEALER--SAME READING..#2 CYLINDER NOT FIRING PROPERLY....THEY SAID EITHER BURNT VALVE OR BROKEN VALVE SPRING.......TOOK BACK TO MY MECHANIC AND WE HAD THE FRONT HEAD MACHINED....REPLACED HEAD, NEW BOLTS, NEW GASKETS AND STILL NOT WORKING PROPERLY, NOW CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS BACK ON AFTER 50 MILES.......I HAVE $1200.00 IN THIS FOR REPAIRS AND STILL NOT WORKING PROPERLY..WHAT IS THE PROBLEM WITH THIS CHRYSLER......I HAD A 1991 PLYMOUTH WITH 200,0000 MILES AND NEVER HAD THIS MUCH MONEY IN IT FOR THE 6 YEATRS I OWNED IT....I DONT BEAT MY VECHILES BUT I DONT BABY THEM.....WHAT THE HECK!!!! COME ON CHRYSLER!!!!!!!!! :mad: :cry: :confuse: :confuse: :sick:
  • Have you fixed your problem yet. My Town and Country started doing the same thing back in April, and we changed the battery, and had the codes reset. I though the problem was fixed until the other night when it happened again. Same situation where the engine would start then shut down with in 1 or 2 seconds. Did that 3 times then it would not even crank. After shaking the wires around the fuse panel down and waiting about an hour it started up and ran like normal. Took it to work yesterday and it ran great. Took it today and about 5 miles down the road my ABS light came on, then the tach and speedometer went dead. I turned around and took it home. Just a few minutes ago I went out and looked at it and it starts up and all the gauges but the Speedometer works. So getting back to my original question, did you by any chance get yours fixed yet?
  • rchiii,
    your problem along with everyone else's is exactly what I'm experiencing with my 98 town and country. It started about 6 months after I bought the vehicle and I've had it for two years now. I had a problem initially with the ignition locking up and not being able to turn. We started using a hammer to give it a little "help" and that seemed to work. Now for the last year we have had problems with the car starting but dying after 1 or 2 seconds. I changed the battery but the problem persisted. I had the mechanic look at it and they determined it wasn't a problem with the starter. We have had the same problems with the ABS light and the tach and speed lights going dead as well. We still don't have it fixed.
  • To all who share our starting problems, send your email address to mizafer@yahoo.com, I will send you an email with pictures of the the circuit board where the connections were re-sodered, and remedied the starting problem on his t/c.
  • I didn't expect to get as many emails as I have, here is the url link

    http://ingriddijkers.com/CaravanPics.html,

    to see the pics to repair the Circuit Board, please no more picture requests,

    Thanks
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,595
    Hahahahahah! That offer of assistance went from "expect scattered showers" to "experiencing heavy thunderstorms" real quick! :(

    Thank you for the information, though!
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,027
    You could also post this as a guide. Start here: http://www.carspace.com/guides/

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • I have a 2001 Chrysler Town & Country Mini-van. A couple of years ago I started having problems with it starting. It would begin to start & then try to cutout for a few seconds & then die. This typically happened on very hot days. Recently it has gone to where the engine will crank but it will not start. If I pop the hood, open the relay box, remove the "Starter" relay, leave it out a few seconds, then put it back in place and crank it --- it will start right up. A guy at an Auto store said that it has something to do with the Safety Check circuit check that it goes through before starting. Please help. My local Dodge Dealer wanted to put a new computer in it??? Some how removing the Starter Relay appears to be resetting a circuit or something. Any help would be appreciated.
  • I have owned my t&c for a few months now and the car has ran great, but lately when i go to start it, i get nothing when i turn the key. Sometimes it will take anywhere from 2 to 8 times then it will start right up. Can anyone tell me what the problem might be before i take it in, so i have some kind of knowledge of the problem. Much thank's for any input.. mike
  • bay021bay021 Posts: 1
    i have a 1999 town & country with a 3.8 engin,it keeps cutting off on me,it starts right back up and runs fine, i changed all fuel related items but it still shuts off. can anyone help me?
  • I have 205,000+ miles on my 1997 Chrysler T&C van. Shortly after I rolled over 200,000 miles, the van started dying as soon as it was started up. I crank it back up and then it dies again. I usually have to re-crank it about five times then it will be fine the rest of the day. Sometimes it goes dead as soon as it is started up and then sometimes it will go dead about a mile down the road after it is cranked. Now the van has started making a loud moaning sound. Otherwise it is fine. I religously have the oil changed every 3,000 miles, as I travel quit a bit. Does anyone know what is causing this and what do I do to get it fixed please? Thank you.
  • :( I have a T&C 2001 LXI, a few weeks ago I had the tires rotated and the oil changed. and while the guy was working on it, the flashers started blinking, the wipers going, the headlamps started flashing. I did not think anything of it at the time.

    Now my front blower fan stays on and cannot be controlled, this I put down to a faulty resistor, which I will pick up this afternoon for about 17 bucks from the dealer.

    However, there is a draw on my battery and the guy at the local garage said when I
    bring it in they will pull the fuses one by one until they find the culprit that is drawing from the battery. After he replaced the negative terminal on the battery, the van attempted to start itself without the keys in it. (Strange, but true).

    After I got home, I opened up the fuse box, disconnected the battery terminal, and when i connected back the terminal the van started itself and began to run without putting the keys in the ignition. I did not put it in the garage overnight so we don't all get carbon monoxide poisoning overnight.

    Has anyone had this in the past? Is it possible the guy at tires plus knocked something?

    Ah! also the van also has an aftermarket alarm system installed by previous owner, but which I don't use. Could this be the culprit? How do I disable this from the system.

    Any help or ideas appreciated.

    Many thanks
  • Over the last six months or so, my 2004 Chrysler T & C has been stalling as I make right turns on uneven surfaces. It generally happens after I rapidly slow down to make the turn and the car will just go dead at the completion of the turn. I put it in neutral and it starts right back up and I continue. Dealership believes it is electrical but can't diagnose. They propose throttle bottle service and software update but still aren't sure. What gives????
  • roymarkoroymarko Posts: 3
    Did you ever get a reply or solution to this problem?
    I have a '99 town and country that starting to do the same thing!
    Any help would be much appreciated.

    Roy
  • todd25todd25 Posts: 4
    Roy - I would be happy to share with you the solution to my problem as I was beyond frustrated with this while it was occurring. The bottom line and as stupid as this sounds was that I had multiple keys, chains and a leather strap hanging from the "key chain" that was inserted in the iginition. When I made a right turn on uneven surfaces, my knee would "bump" against the excess keys, chains that were hanging. This would slightly turn the inserted ignition key backwards causing the car to stall. Currently, I only insert the key and have nothing else hanging from the ignition and the stalling has never happened again. That's it. Good luck.

    Todd
  • mbarlagembarlage Posts: 1
    What did you find out about your van's starting problem. Our van 1996 Town and Country has started doing the same thing as your van.

    Thanks,

    Marc
  • todd25todd25 Posts: 4
    There were too many keys and chains hanging from my ignition key. As I turned bumpy corners, the weight of the additional keys would slightly turn ignition key off. I just use one key now in ignition and it hasn't happened again.
  • mele503mele503 Posts: 4
    I need some help big time!!! The problem with my van is that yesterday I was on my way home and my van started to act up like it wanted to quit and was stalling as I was driving. I got it home but did this for abotu 6 mi or so. Some of the time it ran like nothing was wrong. Then when I got it home it stayed running/idiling while my mom got out but as I went to pull it into the garage it quit. I did get it restarted by pumping the gas several times. Than after I shut it off it restarted 3 times by doing the same thing. Now it only turns over and will not start at all. Oh yeah I should also mention that a few days before this happend I was driving and it acted like you know it had bad gas or something so I returned home than the next time I restarted it than it didn't do it but I thought it may be bad guess so I got some gas additive and used it. Than all of a sudden this happend yesterday. It drove fine all day with no issues until what I described above. Does anyone have any idea what the issue may be?
  • I have a 2000 T&C and recently for no apparent reason, the van will just completely shut off while driving. This is a very dangerous situation as we never know when it will happen--the first time it happened on the freeway. We were told the battery is fine, we have had the waterpump replaced, and we have had the catalytic converter replaced in the last 6 months. After it shuts down, it will immediately start back up and then run fine for a few hours or even a couple of days, and then shut down again. I have seen similar posts--we are on a limited budget--does anyone have any suggestions on what this could be and how to fix it? Thanks
  • todd25todd25 Posts: 4
    I had stalling problems with my 2004 T & C. The bottom line was that I had multiple keys and chains hanging from the ignition key. The weight of the additional "stuff" would slightly turn the ignition off if you can believe it. The car would just go dead and then immediately start right back up and yes it was dangerous. I only use one key now with nothing hanging and the car has never stalled since!
  • ctcownerctcowner Posts: 1
    My T&C has a similar starting problem. Sometimes won't start after running it on a hot day, especially in stop and go traffic or after it's been idling for a long period. Doesn't happen when outside temp is below 50 or 60. That's half the year here. The other half I use the following workaround: I open the hood and rock the fuse box gently from side to side, close the hood, jump in, turn the key and it starts every time. I'm not a mechanic, but I believe my T&C shorts-out due to extreme heat around the fuse box. Also, the computer module is attached to the fuse box. Hey Chrysler, engine compartments are not good environments for computer chips and circuit boards! Hope this helps.
  • roymarkoroymarko Posts: 3
    You might have the fuel pump pressure tested. When they begin to go bad, they loose pressure. Under normal driving and in cool stop-n-go...they work fine. BUT, when it gets hot, in stop-n-go traffic, with heat build-up in the engine compartment, it will 'vapor lock'. Because the fuel pump does not have enough pressure to keep the fuel circulating and thus keep it cool, preventing vapor lock situation. This happened tome on my Astro Van. Well, just another 'real' possibility.
    roymarko
  • judger1judger1 Posts: 1
    Recent purchase from a dealer. Car was running great. Several days ago, the engine would not turn over. All other power functions seemed to work. Mechanic sayes he thinks I need main computer control module, but it is pretty expensive if that's not the real problem. Mechanic also said it started for him after tow but cut off and would not start again. Reading the postings, it seems that the computer control module normally is not the real problem? Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Rob
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    Did they test the fuel delivery system? It could be something like a defective fuel pump or maybe even a simple and inexpensive solution like a dirty/clogged fuel filter.
  • mismailimismaili Posts: 16
    Check my earlier postings, after replacing the main computer module, battery, starter, and a dealer recommended BCM (body control module) which i did not due. I researched it online like you and found 3 others with the starting problem and the final resolution was the circuit board behind the instrumentation panel.
  • delaisladelaisla Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2007 town and Country and I had the same problem the day after we picked up the car from the dealer. My husband was driving the car and it shut down while he was waiting at a red light and my child was in the car. We brought it back to the dealer and they said the issue had something to do with the automatic starter that they installed and the ignition. Now we are having the same issue again. This time we brought it back and they said their was a problem with the charger and they replaced the battery. If this is a common issue shouldn't Chrysler be issuing some type of recall. It is my understanding that the body of the town and country has been the same since 1997. Does this hold true for the engine and circuit boards?
  • I've been all over this forum looking for a final solution to a similar stalling issue... MISMAILI posted a great answer for cars not starting and 3X lockout issues in post #69. See http://ingriddijkers.com/CaravanPics.html

    My problem is stalling in a 2002 Grand Caravan. It's got 105K miles and dies at stop lights, going around corners and sputters when you put it in reverse. In neutral, the car maintains a constant 1000 RPM. Slide it into drive and apply throttle and it sputters (light surge and bucking) and then stall. It's fine if you press the accelerator (to keep the RPM high) while holding the brake and then slip it into drive. No problems on the highway. No observed decrease in MPG.

    It's been in the shop (local shade tree mechanic with 30+ years under the hood) and he's baffled. He's gone thru extensive diagnostics and replaced thermostat, manifold pressure sensor and given it a chemical fuel treatment. NO significant difference. It seems like some sensor is not working... not permitting sufficient fuel to flow when the transmission senses a load on it.

    Like all problems, it's tempermental and does not always act up when Mechanic is chasing the problem. It's been acting up since mid May... about 30 days of which it's been in his shop for 15 days.

    It's been a solid van.... but at 105K, this might be trade-in time. Any help is appreciated.
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