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2012 Subaru Impreza

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Comments

  • porperporper Member Posts: 2
    Irritation red? Annoyance red? If so, is it the only color available?

    For that matter, is amatuerish white the only daytime color available for the dash?
  • cherryfancherryfan Member Posts: 12
    Porper,

    Did you wake up on the wrong side of the bed this morning?

    I find the red much, much easier on the eyes at night. And white seems perfectly suitable to daylight. Why would Subaru screw around with something that works just fine?
  • joeminijoemini Member Posts: 4
    We have 4900 miles on our 2012 Impreza Premium. We love the car but have several concerns.

    1. There are now 2 distinct rattles in the dash. The first is on the passenger side by the dash speaker. It sounds like a screw came loose and is rattling around in it's holder. This rattle comes and goes depending on the smoothness of the road.
    2. The second rattle sounds like it is somewhere in the center of the dash. This also comes and goes depending on road conditions.
    3. Durability of the seat material looks to be very poor in both front and rear seats.

    I mentioned the rattles at the 3500 mile service but the dealer could not duplicate my concerns.

    Anyone have a similar experience?
  • ctuswatleaderctuswatleader Member Posts: 9
    I have roughly 2200 miles on my base model Impreza and I also have an off and on rattle from the dash. I have a feeling that the sound is coming from the plastic on the underside of the hood over the speedometer because the right side of this plastic feels like it isn't secured too strongly to the dash. I've been thinking about mentioning it at the first oil change, but I haven't been able to replicate the sound on demand. I hear it every so often when driving. The road doesn't even have to be particularly rough for the rattle to appear.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Welcome to Subaru ownership!

    Interior rattles are a way of life for Subaru. Fortunately, the dealer should be able to take care of the initial ones, but others will eventually (as in a few months after the 3/36 warranty) replace them. It is the one thing I really haven't liked about any of the four Subaru vehicles I have owned. :mad:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dfong87dfong87 Member Posts: 171
    i have a lot of rattles, but all intermittent. i've documented them to death on the NASIOC forum. the most annoying one may be the same as your 2nd rattle:

    it's a tick-tick-tick sound that comes at certain temperatures which suggest that something is expanding and contracting which allows things to have more or less play. initially, i heard it only when the car was cool (in CA that means 65 oF in my garage). after the car was in the sun, it would go away. now, it's not there when the car is cool, but is some intermediate temperature.

    i can make the sound go away if i apply pressure between the dash assembly and the instrumentation cluster. i *think* the sound is coming from within the instrumentation cluster. my theory is that when that dash panel moves under the right temperature conditions, the dash cluster moves at some clip or another point and it squeaks/ticks. i thought i could deaden the behavior by sticking a piece of cardboard between the two pieces but that doesn't seem to help. i think my hand stops it because it is able to hold everything rigid. i think in the end, the rattle is "way up" into the instrument cluster so not easily fixable. i'd love to have the dealer fix it, but i am guessing that will only have a small chance of occurring if the problem becomes more persistent and regular so i can duplicate it consistently and have it occur when i bring the car in and have it remain while they test drive it. sigh...

    my other rattles (which i'm getting more used to) include something on the passenger side near the seat belt. i'm now guessing its actually the roof rail outside. this is only there when the car is "cool," but goes away pretty quickly and doesn't seem to come back even as the evening hours hit and if my car was parked outside. but i think i'm also getting better at ignoring it.

    i had some noises in the A pillars which i have pretty much cured by better bracing the A pillars from the windows (stuffed a piece of cardstock on one side, and a felt circle on the other) and also putting foam tape to remove play in a small piece of panel outside of the car at the base of the windshield.

    i'd be so ecstatic if i could get rid of the first rattle as i think that's the only one that continues to annoy me. i can handle the other occasional ones...
  • dfong87dfong87 Member Posts: 171
    so you've had some success with your dealer helping with some initial rattles? i haven't seen one post on NASIOC which suggests anyone has gotten rid of their rattles with the dealer's help.
  • cherryfancherryfan Member Posts: 12
    I'm with you. I have a very occasional rattle in the dash speaker on the driver's side. These dash speakers do not seem to be secured well at all, and any road surface that sets up the right vibration sets the speaker abuzz.

    I found that simply pushing down on the speaker cover solved the rattle briefly. But I expect it to recur when road conditions provoke it.
  • dfong87dfong87 Member Posts: 171
    i think i know what you guys are talking about. if i'm right, and your experience is the same as mine, then the rattle is not actually the speaker/tweeter. it's actually the A-pillar. what is happening when you push down on the speaker grill is that you are stabilizing the a pillar and keeping it from rattling against the glass. so there are several ways to fix it, but for me, it was to cushion the gap between the glass and the A pillar trim. i did two temp fixes and left them both in place because i don't think anyone can see them unless i point them out. (driver's side has a round felt pad 3/16" thick tucked between the two, the other side has a folded cardstock parking permit)

    YMMV, but it's likely you rattles are similar to mine and can be fixed. (the tweeter is held down by two screws (can't recall if they were phillips or flat) that for me are plenty tight (i replaced my tweeters)....those speaker panels can also be carefully pride up from the front edge so you can see what i'm talking about regarding how the A-pillar and that trim piece fit together.
  • joeminijoemini Member Posts: 4
    dfong87---I thought about the A pillars---they are loose but I don't think they are the culprits.
    I will try some felt to see if that helps. I have a 2002 GMC sierra that has a dash rattle that only
    occurs when the temp is below freezing( I live in Wisconsin). Once the cab is warmed up the rattle is gone.
    While the car is under warranty I won't do anything too drastic but I would like to solve these
    annoying issues. I do most of the normal maintenance on my vehicles so I won't be going back to the dealer unless I really need to.
    Do the speaker covers just pop off? I would like to get them off without breaking them.
    Thanks for all the posts.
    P.S. the subie replaced my wife's mini as you may have already guessed.
  • van123van123 Member Posts: 14
    We are looking at purchasing an Impreza sedan. Does anyone have good info as to when the 2013 Impreza will be available? Since it is so close to a new model year, we would like the added trade in value in the future. Thanks! ;)
  • dfong87dfong87 Member Posts: 171
    yes, the speaker covers do pry up and off. just do it gently.

    take a flat screwdriver (thin one) and tuck it on the front face, maybe 1 inch in from the "inwards corner" and pry up so you can get your fingers under it and gently tug upward. that front edge will pop up and then you can pull the whole cover forward and out. to put it back in: reverse: push it inwards (towards the windshield) so that the "teeth/male ends go into the holes/female end on the dash and then push down.

    probably too much detail that isn't super clear, but hopefully somewhat helpful...
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Probably late August or September. It will likely arrive when the XV Crosstrek arrives, as they are so closely related.

    Bob
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    I can't speak to the new Impreza, but yes, they were successful with most of my initial rattles on my '07 and '08 Outbacks, and my '10 Forester. Both the Outbacks had terrible rattles (sounded like a ball bearing rolling/jumping around in the middle of the dash near the windshield) in the dash and the liftgate, and both were fixed by the dealer.

    The '09 Forester had only two bad rattles: One in each front door. The car was perfectly silent the first 500 miles I owned it, but by the time I made it home at 2,200 miles, both front doors were singing to their own tunes. Again, the dealer took care of those (apparently common and well-documented issues on the '09 and '10 Foresters) on the first visit.

    During the 3/36 warranty, I listen for rattles as much as possible. Now that I'm out of 3/36, I wish I could turn that part of my hearing off. Thankfully, the only thing that rattles consistently now is something in the moonroof assembly, but it is just above my head, so it can get pretty annoying.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    I do most of the normal maintenance on my vehicles so I won't be going back to the dealer unless I really need to.

    Yeah, I don't like to visit the dealer either. In the case of rattles, I figure if it costs Subaru enough money to fix those sorts of preventable issues, they might tweak their manufacturing techniques to avoid the problems in the first place. On the contrary, if I spend my time finding and fixing them myself, they have no incentive at all to make the issues better for future buyers.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dfong87dfong87 Member Posts: 171
    thanks for the positive feedback/encouragement. if i can get my rattles to be any more consistent, i'll bring them in. the intermittency thus far is a mixed blessing. 75% (?) of the time, the car is dead quiet and "tight." the other 25% i find myself annoyed and can't seem to ignore them.

    i think if i could get rid of the one in my dash, i can live with any other intermittent rattle. it's the rattles that are in close proximity that have a way of really getting on my nerves.
  • rxman4rxman4 Member Posts: 2
    I think your right on with the Pillars causing the rattle. I used a 2 inch piece of a very small rubber vacuum hose and inserted it between the glass and A Pillar cover and so far, for the last month, no rattles (at least in the front passenger side) I do have a rattle coming near the passenger side rear, by the hatch thats driving me nuts. At first I thought I found the problem when I noticed the black covering around the window had a clip that wasn't pushed all the way in, but that wasn't it - I then sprayed silicone in the hatch channel, but still can't find the problem. I do feel the front rattle near the speaker seems to be the A Pillar cover and the glass just as you said.
  • jd_24jd_24 Member Posts: 92
    5 months, 6000+ miles and no rattles so far. Good mpg and I'm happy. Now the however part.
    3 times I've had a humming noise from the rear of the car. All three times the car is parked, and keys out of the ignition. Engine hasn't been running for hours. The hum is from the rear underside. My best guess is fuel pump. But why would it start running when the car is off??? Put the key in the ignition and turn to ACC and back off and the noise stops.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Must be emissions related. Could be pressurizing fuel or even venting the fuel tank itself.
  • jd_24jd_24 Member Posts: 92
    I was leaning that way too. First time was a hot day. Last two times was cooler (about 70) so I'm leaning less that way. Also how long would it have to run?? I've let it go 5 minutes after hearing it, and I don't know when it started...so I think it runs a long time.
  • typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    It's the emissions system doing a check, this also occurs on other makes. It will only do this several hours after shutoff.
  • oxmeadoxmead Member Posts: 79
    Just got my sport limited w/ nav. First 100 miles of mixed driving and I'm at 34.5 mpg average . Most cars I've had I usually get a little better than the rating, so after I get my plates and title I'm hitting the hi way and shooting for 40 mpg. I'm starting to read the manuals. Wow, 336 pages just for the navigation! Some things will be missed from my '06 CTS. A temp gauge, power seat w/lumbar, and auto door locks. The only changes I saw for '13 were added backup camera and some color changes ( no more 2 tones). So went with a '12 and saved a little.
  • van123van123 Member Posts: 14
    Glad you love your car! Where did you see info on the '13s? We are waiting to get one and dealer can't order until the end of the month. Patience, patience..... :D
  • sd1228sd1228 Member Posts: 46
    Whats new for 2013 can be found here (along with lot of other subaru info)

    http://www.cars101.com/subaru/impreza/impreza2013.html#whats_new

    >>Glad you love your car! Where did you see info on the '13s? We are waiting to >>get one and dealer can't order until the end of the month. Patience, patience.....
  • oxmeadoxmead Member Posts: 79
    Yep, that's where I saw the '13 info. Just about everything you want to know about a Subaru.
  • cherryfancherryfan Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for that insight, I'm going to check it out.
  • oxmeadoxmead Member Posts: 79
    I don't have a bracket for mounting front plates. There are two holes but they don't line up with the plate holes. It looks like the dealer put two holes slightly inside the others. Is that enough, or should there be a bracket?
  • van123van123 Member Posts: 14
    Thanks for the info, we were looking at a Camelia red Impreza, now they don't make that color. :P
  • oxmeadoxmead Member Posts: 79
    The new red is "venetian red" and you can see it on that same site under '13 Legacy. Looks similar. I wanted beige interior so I got satin pearl. I like it with the grey wheels.
  • jstegmeir85jstegmeir85 Member Posts: 1
    I see a problem with it especially since MOST every other remote starter has a feature so that IF you turn the key too far, it will not engage the starter. It's so stupid to have to re-start the car once you enter it...plus, it puts extra strain on the engine and starter.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Minutely so, but yes, I agree.

    Another goofball "feature" of Subaru vehicles is that the window lock button on the driver door locks out not only the passenger windows, but also locks out the driver from being able to operate those windows unless the lock is removed.

    The driver buttons should always work... the lock should be for the others only.

    Heck, my family had a 1985 Camry that did the lockout correct!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    My former 2004 Toyota Highlander and 1989 Camry operated same as the Subie for window locks.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Well dang, that's lame. We had a 1985 and 1992 Camry, both of which operated as I described.

    I had a 2011 Fiesta at home last night on an "overnight test drive," and was pleasantly surprised to find that it, too, allowed the driver to control the windows while locking out the other occupants. I have owned Subaru vehicles for so long that I had almost passed off the more useful approach as mere legend.

    This feature might not sound all that useful, but when you have annoying children who refuse to listen to voice commands, it is a true blessing. :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • brianweiner1brianweiner1 Member Posts: 1
    I tried the front bracket that subaru sells but it sucks. It flaps around, just screw it in with the top holes and forget about it.
  • cherryfancherryfan Member Posts: 12
    OEM fog light install is very easy, anyone (read: average mechanic or DIY-er) can do it in about an hour. I had a mechanic friend do it, since I'm mechanically challenged, but even I could see how easy it is. Very much plug and play. The alignment is simple enough that even a cave man (read: me) can do it.

    I would not have a dealer do the install unless they do it for next to nothing. Our local dealer quoted $225 to my wife. My buddy did it for $40.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    what about the wire routing, dash switch, interlock features? Are those items built in with/without the actual lights? If not, then I can see a couple hours of dinking around with the details.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Yes, they sure are. The accessory fog lights are simply plug and play.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • cherryfancherryfan Member Posts: 12
    Yes, the wiring's all there. Subaru makes it a little more difficult than necessary--the entire plate that houses the light switches, to the left of the steering shell, gets replaced, even though it looks like you should be able to simply punch out the hole for the fog light switch. But the switch and lights are plug and play, and the relay is easier to install than the directions indicate (it's not necessary to remove the glove box, that is). The lights screw to the bumper very easily, and the shroud itself simply snaps in and out. Our new gas BBQ grill required a lot more work than the fog kit.
  • dfong87dfong87 Member Posts: 171
    have any of you had any problems with your power windows?

    for the second time, my passenger front window failed to work today. the last time it occurred, shutting off the car and "restarting" got rid of the problem. all other three windows work, and the window is inoperable from either the passenger control or the driver's control.

    based on the prior intermittency, i thought it might be some weird freak occurrence, but now that it has happened again, and i can't get it working, i guess it points to a bigger problem. guess i need to make an appointment with the dealer, but i thought i'd check in with you guys first to see if anyone has had this issue, too.
  • dodman1dodman1 Member Posts: 7
    I recently had the same problem with the drivers window. I called the dealer and they had me come right in for an appointment. The Tech said the wiring was loose which seemed to surprise him. It's working fine ever since. Also, I notice people complaining that the window lock, locks the drivers window as well as all other windows. Mine keeps the drivers window active while locking out the other 3 windows. I have a Limited Sedan.
  • dfong87dfong87 Member Posts: 171
    thanks for sharing your experience. my window lock does function properly in locking out all but the driver's window. it'll be nice if it is truly a loose wire and hopefully a quick fix. i have no clue why my previous "failure" was fixed by restarting the car...
  • flopkaflopka Member Posts: 22
    I got an oil change at 3 months as recommended for my 2012 Impreza Premium, but the dealer sent me a 6-month service reminder. This car really doesn't have that many miles on it yet - only about 2400 miles (I took delivery of it in late February). Do I need to take it in for another oil change right now? What is the next recommended service date?
  • sgoldste01sgoldste01 Member Posts: 26
    I don't think so. I did my first oil change at 1700 miles. I'll probably do my next oil change at around 6k miles, and then every 5k miles thereafter.
  • techdudetechdude Member Posts: 87
    I'm confused about the oil change schedule on the vehicle as well. The owners manual says one thing and the dealers website has something else. I got one done at 3000 and then again 7500. The dealers sticker on the windshield indicates next one to be done around 15k.
  • sgoldste01sgoldste01 Member Posts: 26
    edited September 2012
    It sounds like your dealer is in sync with the owner's manual. The manual says to use a 7500 mile oil change interval. You dealer changed your oil at 7500, and suggests the next change at 15k, which is also 7500 miles.

    This is probably acceptable unless your drive in "harsh" conditions. Unfortunately, Subaru's definition of "harsh" is pretty conservative, so driving in dusty conditions, or driving near the ocean where the humidity and salt levels are high, or driving in extreme heat or cold, and so on, are considered harsh.

    Basically, Subaru (and other manufacturers, I'm sure) define "harsh" very loosely as a way of possibly denying warranty coverage. So an owner thinks he's following the manufacturer's recommended service interval, only to have the manufacturer tell him that he didn't because he should have been following the "harsh" schedule. Excuse me for being cynical, but I am, not because Subaru has tried to screw me, but rather because VW did on my last car.

    Anyway, I plan to use a 5k oil change interval because I prefer to err on the side of caution, and because I don't want Subaru to accuse me of not doing my part to take care of the car.

    7500 miles is probably fine, but I'll be doing mine more frequently. I do oil changes myself as a way of saving money, so I don't mind this task.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    edited September 2012
    I run yearly changes on my '10 Forester. It has 45K on it now, and I just changed the oil for the fourth time this past July (including the initial oil change at 2,500 miles). I use an extended interval oil (which generally has a higher acid buffering capacity than "standard" oil), but tend to put 13-16K on the car in that time frame. I also have used oil analyses done on the car, to both gauge the health of the engine and determine safe thresholds for the oil/filter.

    So far, the car (and oil) is very happy with this schedule. I average about a half-quart of make-up oil over that interval. Considering that I spend about $80 a year on oil change costs (including the analysis), I don't necessarily save money over a 7,500-mile schedule. But, I do save time (at least half!) and I know much more about what's going on inside my engine than were I to just do oil changes more often and skip the analysis.

    I'm not saying there's anything wrong with other methodologies, mind you, just tossing in other options for new owners.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • aknight3aknight3 Member Posts: 9
    I am confused as well, the dealer told me 3K for the first oil change, from then on it would be 6k. After my first oil change, the sticker listed 3K miles for the next change. I guess I have to call and get it straight.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Did you go to Kendall? I'm surprised they would note 3K, as they generally follow the "severe" schedule (which would be 3,750 at minimum).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • flopkaflopka Member Posts: 22
    I'm always going to have rather low mileage on this car - it just doesn't get driven very far during the week - so I feel like I need to pay attention to the time interval too and not just the mileage. At the rate I drive it, it won't hit 6K until September 2013! Doesn't oil need to be changed after a certain period of time, regardless of mileage?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Yes, to some extent. Oil has a buffering capacity to counteract the presence of acids, and that capacity degrades over time. If you're only putting ~3,000 miles a year on it (or even five or six thousand), my recommendation is an annual oil change. You may not need to change it that often, but it is an easy thing to remember if you pick a certain date (holiday weekend, date of importance, etc) and just stick with it.

    More often would be a waste of time and resources.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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