Hyundai Elantra Real World MPG 2012

mikeystoy5 · February 2012

TSB-11-01-069, this is the TSB, that has all the info on it. It not only covers 2012 Elantra GLS, but also cover all Elanta models, (GLS & LIMITED) for the 2011 & 2012 model years. The only difference between a GLS and a LIMITED is the interior trim(leather/cloth) and the tech. pkges. They all have the same NU engine, 6spd manaul/ automatic. Might try checking with the dealer about that update. Not all of them require the PCM flash.

davidj1018 · February 2012

I work at a Hyundai/ford dealership in the service department and own a 2012 Elantra. It frustrates me when so many people bash this car. I worked for another hyundai dealership four years prior then i switched to the ford Franchise. Why you ask? As most people know we get paid on a commision basis. I work half as hard to make the same amount of money as i had to woth Hyundai. Why? Hyundai has a better warranty and require less maintanence or repair than most domestics.
Another thing people think is that their vehicle is covered bumper to bumper for 10 years. Let's be realistic here people. do you think everything will be covered under your warranty for ten years and only pay 19-20k? I can tell you that everything you will need to know is in that owner's manual in that glove box. Iv'e had ridiculous questions about thier warranty. Is oil changes covered? an object went through the grille and damaged the a/c componenets. With the problem with the a/c the customer said she was going to sue hyundai for the repairs because that part shouldnt be in that location and it was poor engineering. Wow every vehicle that has been massed produced with a/c has had the condesor in the same exact spot.
With all that being said, Hyundai still has the best warranty. 10/100k Covers engine (as long as you actually do your oil changes) Transmission (as long as it has been maintained) engine seals, water pump, oil pump, cv axles, front wheel bearings, transmission seals,
No other domestic will offer you a 10 year warranty. why? their warranty repair cost would be too significant.
I have LOYAL customers that come in and have no issues with their car. One inparticular uses his 2009 elantra limited for his job and has acumulated 215,000 miles. this is his fifth hyundai by the way. All which he sold inspected with over 300,000 miles.
Everyone thinks Getting your car maintained and serivced at a dealership. You walk out the door paying 50-75 a crack at jiffy lube and have someone that was previously employed as a fry cook at the burger joint across the street work on your car. Typically you can get a synthetic blend oil change and tire rotation and an inspection from a Hyundai certified technician look over your car in between 30-40 plus tax.
As far asactual repair cost you will pay a litle more at a dealer, but there is a reason. Say you have 50k on your car and you needs brake pads Dealer might charge you 225-300 depending on location. A side shop will tell you we will give you lifetime brake pads nstalled for $99.00. Well now your at thier shop and they noe tell you that your calipers, rotors and brake lines are shot and the only way your going to get those lifetime brakes is to get your brake system up to thier Standards. But 15k later your pads are worn down and need to be replaced again. sure they will give you those $10 brake pads but you have to pay to put them on. hmmmm wasnt a very smart move now was it.
For a check engine light we genraly charge $90 to check it out. "$90? wow autozone will look at it for free" Guess what that'sall they will do is look at it. plug in a scanner print you the code and tell you ehat it could be. Now you ran backand forth to the part store multiple times and wasted hundreds of dollars it get this check engine light off. It couldv'e been something as simple as a computer update and you would have beenout of the door for $90. You pay the money and you will know EXACTLY what is wrong.
Something most people dont realize is the Service Advisor that you meet when you drop off your car is actually what his title is, an advisor. He will help you make the right decision on what you should do for your car based on your time and budget. I myself like to put myself in your shoes. i will tell you what you need and what you can put off and what's not necessary. Thats is how you build a relationship with a customer no take thier hard earned money and run like most people think we do. Also that survey you recieve after you pick up your car is how he keeps his job. Say you picked your car up because the part had to be ordered for your car and it wont be in for a month you give the dealership a bad survey. Guess what you might have just costed that man behind the desk his job for something that he nor the dealership had no control over. In my place of employment a bad survey like that will cost me $500 a month for three months. Not fair but it's my job to make sure your happy. Remember those peopple behind the desk are people too they didnt build your car or work on it and they get just as upset as you do when things dont go like they should. If you come in and treat the man behind the desk like a human being i promise you that they will go out of their way to help you. most service advisors take care of 15-25customers a day. it doesnt sound like much but when you have to plan corrdinate and hope the parts are in stock, hope the technician is in a good enough mood to take care of you if he likes you and not put your vehicle off for someone else's.
Finally mpg Hyundai didnt put that 40 mpg tag on that sticker, the EPA did. And if your lucky enough to have a state that doesnt pump their fuel with ethanol you might get close to it. Ethanol is like the difference between top shelf and bottom shelf liquor. you think it is doing good for the environment but if it causes you to burn more fuel in a ZERO emissions vehicle what are you gaining? It's another way for oil companies to boost profits. Look i drive 11.5 miles a day 10 of it is interstate and i average 26-27 mpg. Sometimes better if i use a different gas station. I will tell you i jut dont hear gas mileage complaints about the Elantra. I get complaints about all new cars. And for those of you that think that there is soe magic reflash that is going to restore your gas mileage your wrong. Hyundai does not have any tsb's in any such subject. What is done it they reset the adaptive values of the ecu. What this does is Delete your driving habits and history out of the computer and restore it back to factory settings. We do it any tie a sensor, transmission engine etc is replaced. What really frustrates me is when people say they are going to sue. Really? Can you find something elseto complain about in your perfect little world. Sue yeah thats the answer just drive the cost of those new car up so you can have some extra chaneg in your pocket. Kind of what health insurance companies do get a little noepay alot later. Below is the onlyEPA Gas Mileage Estimates
Here is all the information from the Hyundai technicain website in regards to mpg.
With the cost of gasoline being near an all time high, many customers are paying much closer attention to their gas mileage. As a result of this, some of them may believe they're not getting the gas mileage they should, or what they saw listed on the window sticker (EPA Label) at the time of purchase. This article will attempt to

davidj1018 · February 2012

That tsb if for a heater pipe fitting and inspection and or replacement for a 2012 elantra produced betweed October 5 thru October 11th 2011.
Here is the link.
http://www.hmaservice.com/local_bulletin/View.asp?docu_no=5001991&title_num=333&- uid=MD008&sid=818991770&page=1&chkSearch=Y&OrderBy1=&OrderBy2=&view_type=

davidj1018 · February 2012

Bad idea to continue filling up after the pump stops. it will contaminate the evaporative emmisions system and be a costly repairs because its not hyundai's fault you didnt read you gas cap

davidj1018 · February 2012

quality if fuel. if it is a small gas station the fuel stays in the tanks longer. it accumulates water. reduced mpg also ambient temperature and road conditions play a crucial part as well

davidj1018 · February 2012

your transmission is programmed to shift into the next gear as quick as possible. lower rpms better mpg. if your dont feel that it shifts to your liking slap the shifter to the right and control the transmission how you see fit. i hope this helps .Eco mode retards your exhaust timing and advances your ignition timing to reduce engine power and fuel consumpstion.
I'ts been stated many times before Hyundai didnt post the 40 mpg mark on the window sticker, The EPA did. The answer is it's not a performance vehicle you either drive it like miss daisy or put the pedal to the metal. It Shares the same transmission as the tucson, sonata, accent and veloster. If they put it in all those vehicles it must be doing something right

mikeystoy5 · February 2012

Thanks for the info, I got that TSB from the NTSB website, but all it gave was a TSB #. Sorry about the mistake.

ynglegend · February 2012

I have 11,000 miles on my 2012 limited and I can tell you I do 70-30 highway/city driving. Research the factors that affect gas mileage and it will really help you maximize your MPG. When they test these cars it's done with one driver and a complete empty car. Now all of us drive our cars with people, stuff in the trunk, etc. Trust me every little pound makes a difference in how much gas you use.

I usually drive my car on hilly interstates with 4 passengers and luggage, drive from 65-70 mph and I get 38 mpg. I do have times that I get some gas that doesn't seem to burn as well so I get a little worse at times so you have to be consistent on where you fill up your car. Now on my MPG, I can tell you this since I read gas mileage drops for every 5 mph over 60 that you go...I tested that. I used to drive 75 on the interstate and got 33-34 mpg. Now I drive below the speed limit in my state and I have increased my MPG 38. I'm a data analyst so I really watch this stuff since I drive so much so the data does not lie. When you really watch how your drive and properly maintain your vehicle, extra stuff in your car you don't really need; you will do far better on your pocket book. I don't keep my golf club in my car when I don't need them, that's like having an extra person in the car hurting my mpg. Look at it this way, it's like asking our bodies to carry heaving boxes up stairs....it's more weight so it takes more work to move the same distance.

Now for town driving - just too may factors in my opinion. stop and go is just how it is. I have found my elentra gets better around town mileage than my mazda 3 did. I get around 31-32 now matter how I drive it. Unless you have a hybrid, you just have to be realistic here. I think a lot of times we don't notice how hard we take off from a stop light because we are all in a hurry to get some where. Taking off consumes the most fuel.

All in all - I think the elentra gets as advertise on MPG. But if you are really having problems with the MPG have a dealer technician run a diagnostic on the car, it might need a slight adjustment that is hurting your gas mileage. Use the great warranty they carry!

crankeee · February 2012

David: Thanks for the informative post from an experienced tech that actually worked on Hyundais. We bought a 2012 Sonata GLS 2 months ago and the car is great. 65-70 MPH yields 36-38 MPG and even at 75+ it gets 33. City MPG all over the board due to varying conditions, but close to EPA.
I agree with your comments on dealer service and warranty. I feel the warranty is worth a lot and will definately get the oil changed every 3000 miles to protect that warranty. We also got the Assurance guranteed trade in value in 12/2011 that is not available on all the cars in 2012. 67% after 30 months is pretty good backup if you wanted a new or different Hyundai.
Our 2.4L 6-speed auto trans shifts very well and does have the programming set up to upshift faster than downshift for MPG maxxing.
Great cars for the money and with that warranty the Sonata was no brainer. The highway MPG is close to the Elantra but not the city.
Thanks again for the facts and professional view.
Crankee

crankeee · February 2012

ynglegend:
Great comments in a real world view. See my previous post to David's comments. We see exactly the same changes with speed on or 2012 Sonata. Max MPG at 65-70 using Shell or BP (Amoco). City MPG only 22-24 due to added weight of Sonata. We also avoided the low profile tire trap and run the 205x65 HR16" tires at 35#. A little common sense and paying attention to details results in maximizing the MPG and at $4/gallon and headed up thanks to the oil companies business plan of wanting to pay more for imported crude to make 6% of $100/bbl vs. 6% of $35- oh well!

g2iowa · February 2012

Had to fill up twice in past 2 days.

First tank was about 30% hwy/70% city. 30.20 mpg (227.7 miles and 7.540 gals). Computer est. 32.0 mpg and said I averaged 28 mph. Did the highway driving with 2 adult passengers.

Second tank was about 75% hwy/25% city. 34.15 mpg (186.5 miles and 5.461 gals). Computer est. 37.6 mpg and said I averaged 51 mph. Did about half the highway driving with 1 adult passenger.

Weather was cold and windy, mostly in the 30 degs-40 degs for 1st tank. 2nd tank all in 20 degs. Had ECO on entire time. Used regular unleaded (non-ethanol). Tried to use cruise control for maximum amount of time. Drove at posted speed limits. While some of the hwy at 70 mph there were also portions at 65, 60, and 55 mph.

I find the AT fascinating. My tach shows about 1500 RPMs for 25 mph (4th gear, direct drive 1-1), 35 mph (5th gear), and 45 mph (6th gear). The manumatic shifting feature has an override, so I can't put the car into 5th at 25 or 6th at 35 mph, even though I wish I could and the car has enough torque to keep it going nicely on level ground. This car really seems to max out FE in the 40-60 mph range, in 6th gear (the deep overdrive), but the FE craters from standing start to 25 mph. So lots of stop signs and stop lights will kill FE. And I see a noticeable dropoff after 65 mph. By time doing 70 mph FE dropping fast.

backy · February 2012

This car really seems to max out FE in the 40-60 mph range...

I've seen the same thing on nearly every car I've driven (for which I've measured fuel economy) over the past 20 years or so. 50-60 seems to be the sweet spot from my experience, although it's possible to get very good FE at lower speeds too if the tranny is geared for it. For example, at 35-40 mph in my Sentra with CVT the engine is turning at only 1100-1200, so I can get good FE cruising at those speeds. Except I never get to stay at those speeds very long since that would be in-town driving, so there's stops/starts.

goose56 · February 2012

My 1st tank of gas 2012 GLS AVERAGE 29 mpg . The 2nd tank same thing,half way through reset went 25 miles on highway 60 mph criuse control got 40 + enough said!!! The key word is AVERAGE!!! Case Closed!!!

g2iowa · February 2012

The April 2012 issue of MT has a 7-car test of economy hatchbacks with manual transmissions and the Accent won both the test and had highest FE achieved, and Rio came in last. The FE numbers achieved were interesting:

Accent SE: 32.4 mpg achieved (30/40 EPA mpg)
Yaris SE: 32.3 (30/38)
Fit: 31.0 (27/33)
Rio: 30.8 (30/40)
Sonic LTZ: 30.6 (29/40)
SX4 Sport Back: 27.8 (23/32)
Mazda2: 27.0 (29/35)

jayhawkk · February 2012

The keyword here IS average and people are having a hard time getting the average they should be getting. I just hit 3000 miles on my Elantra and have yet to get anywhere close to 40mpg except when the reset is it. It will steadily fall WHILE driving at a controlled speed of 55mph. In 30 miles of continuous driving with no stops or steep inclines the mpg would go from high 30's to 35.

When I picked up my car from the dealer after they failed to find any issues with it a lady was there to pick hers up as well. Same model and she was getting in the teens for city driving which is what I was getting when I drove around rockville one morning but that was my only experience with 'city' driving. She complained that she traded in her 98 Toyota for this but was getting worse gas mileage.

Prior to meeting her I had asked the Adviser if they had other people with this issue and they responded with no. Either the testing procedures have changed to allow for better MOG ratings than in the past or this car just does not get the stated averages.

In a 6 day work week with a total of 24 highway miles at 55mph daily roundtrip and 1 miles total of getting on and off the ramp (1/4 from house to highway and a 1/4 mile from highway to work) we cannot stay above 32mpg average. This is using mild acceleration and cruise control. Now for those who say this isn't enough time to warm up the vehicle I have tried letting the vehicle warm up longer before leaving and just idling causes the mpg to drop and in 3 days of doing this the average mpg had dropped to 29.

You have to be an idiot to reset the computer and take it on the highway and say that you're getting 40mpg because it reads that at the beginning. When reset they all read high until an average can be given. The problem is that people cannot seem to get anywhere close once more than a few miles have been put on since the computer was reset.

The service adviser told me the mechanic was able to achieve 41mpg in 5 miles of driving on the highway so nothing was wrong. First, I have no idea how they did this unless he reset the computer while at highway speed and not from the shop or he would have never got that rating since I haven't. Second, when I started up the car it read 27.8mpg average. I find it hard to believe that this computer is actually reading an average accurately if you can go from 41mpg to 27.8 with only a short distance from the dealership to the highway.

crankeee · February 2012

This idiot reset the computer MANY times to get the instant MPG under varying conditions. Highway means ALL highway NOT city/highway mix.
The comment about MPG going down at idle is very enlightened; using fuel without traveling any miles would equal 0 MPG. seems to me that would impact your average MPG also. The instant MPG is a great way to learn your vehicle and also to maximize your MPG experience. ALL city = minimum MPG. ALL highway = minimum MPG. Mix of both equal something in between.
We have the 2012 Sonata that has the same computer software - what cool cars - they can even lear which is more than some of the operators!

backy · February 2012

This is interesting in that the Accent and Rio have the same powertrains and are close to the same weight. So, why did the Rio get lower FE than the Accent? One reason might be if the Rio had the 17" wheels; Accent's are 16".

smalltown · February 2012

"The keyword here IS average". That means half of you will get mpg lower than the average.!

g2iowa · February 2012

I think the results vs EPA estimates are most interesting for the 4 cars with the highest highway estimates. Consumers see the "40 mpg" in all the ads and think that is what they will get, forgetting to pay attention to the more important city and overall estimates. The MT results achieved in their tests come close to the combined estimates, and notice how they are about a whopping 8-10 mpg LESS than the "40" highway number (and about 6 less for the Yaris' 38)! So instead of thinking 40, buyers should really be thinking about 30-32 mpg overall. That is realistic and achievable for most owners.

Accent SE: 32.4 mpg achieved (30/40 EPA mpg)
Rio: 30.8 (30/40)
Sonic LTZ: 30.6 (29/40)
-----------------------------
Yaris SE: 32.3 (30/38)

m6user · February 2012

I think most of the complaints are coming from people that can't achieve with any kind of regularity any of the estimates city/highway or average. Especially when cars that they drove before did achieve their respective EPA estimates. I don't assume that most consumers expect to get "40mpg" as an average as I just don't think they are that stupid or uninformed. From what I've read, they realize that the 40 is a hwy number. But when they drive very conservatively at 60mph on a flat expressway and can't get more than 35-36mpg something appears to be wrong.

There may be something wrong with their individual vehicle which does not reflect the vast majority of the car's out there. That's why it's really hilarious when the know-it-alls post on here that they "get what they are supposed to get" with their car so that means the people that are complaining are either stupid, can't drive or are lying." They never consider that a few cars may not be performing as they should.

mikewallace1 · February 2012

On my trip a few weeks ago I got 38-40 on the highway at 60-65 mph. I had a half tank of gas, was the only person in the car, and the winds were calm.

This past weekend on the highway with 3 peeps in the car, full tank, and windy as heck, I got 31 mpg.

We're averaging 27 mpg cause the non highway driving kills the average and so do passengers. Best overall tank average I think was 29.5.

12_glselantra · February 2012

With a 30% city 70% highway and I get 40.1 MPG explain that

backy · February 2012

Easy. You are to the far right of "average" on the curve. There will be some drivers out there. Just as there will be drivers on the far left of the curve.

gofor40mpg · February 2012

Hi. I am not sure what your driving habbits are, or what city you live in. If you are in heavy traffic, Stop and go.. I can see that you will get about or less than the 29 MPG's. I am getting 31.4 MPG's and i have just reached 1274 Miles, I am doing city and Hwy driving, I live in a Desert and Mountain terrain, so there is really no flat roads. its up and down, Please read my reviews. I will be updating
regerly on the MPG's. But keep in mind.. It's UP TO 29 MPG's and UP TO 40 MPG's. Calculate your MPG's your self. Divide the miles gone by the Gallons you have filled up. If you live close to sea level. I would think one would get great
MPG's. I live 5000 Feet above Sea level, and that is at the lowest point of the city. I hope you have better luck in getting better MPG's..

crankeee · February 2012

70% Highway @ 44MPG + 30% "City" @ 33MPG = Average 40 MPG
Better than average highway is easier to attain with lower speed.
Better than average "city" dependent on amount of stop & go - you must have very little stop and go. We have freeways in our city and we live fairly close so our "average" benefits greatly. Milk delivery man would get minimum. Capice?

g2iowa · February 2012

Think it interesting that Wall Street Journal's weekly auto columnist has been having about a question a week recently tied to FE. In today's issue Mr Walsh writes, "the [EPA] bases its fuel economy ratings for vehicles on 100% gasoline. Drivers using the typical 10% ethanol blend should expect a decrease of 3% to 4% in [FE]." If he is right about EPA testing, in worse case a 4% reduction would turn EPA 29/40 sticker into 28/38 with ethanol. Just one more factor to keep in mind in the real world of FE. Fortunately, in my part of the midwest I can buy 87 oct regular unleaded (non-ethanol) in addition to 89/90 oct ethanol and 91 oct premium unleaded (non-ethanol).

eweiner · February 2012

Ahhhh.....NO!

If you have highways in the city then its not city driving. You math is also estimated not actual. EPA values are generally wrong for most drivers.

You're getting high mileage because you're driving ALL highway. The Elantra's city MPG is not good and worse than the EPA estimates most of the time.

On an earlier thread you asked how we might explain your 40 MPG. Well:

You are driving near 100% highway.

Is your measurement at the pump or via the average MPG reading?

I can get 40 on the highway, on a warm day. But my at the pump MPG is far less because the local driving KILLS any gains on the highway.

For those who are consistently below 25 at the pump MPG...go to your dealer and have your car checked. There is something wrong.

12_glselantra · February 2012

I'm just saying the disparity between these cars is a combination in-between bad driving habits or computer glitches with the cars, how else could I see such a great increase in my MPG over the same route and same driving habits ( my car wouldn't start and died three times before it started up and ran perfect) . I drive very eco friendly, acceleration slow and shifting between 2000-3000 ripped and setting the cruise once I achieve my optimal speed. There is a problem however if you are only getting 30-33 in all highway driving like how I was before the reflash, I have accumulated quite a few miles since then and will refill after a highway trip tomorrow and share my MPG.

backy · March 2012

I'm just saying the disparity between these cars is a combination in-between bad driving habits or computer glitches with the cars...

Sorry, I don't agree. I think a lot of the disparity in what different drivers get for FE has to do with where and when they drive, and conditions including weather, traffic, number of stops, amount of idling etc. They could be careful drivers (easy on the gas etc.) and have no problems with the car, and still not get the "EPA average" because of where and when they drive. I've seen this myself. For example, if I am driving in nice weather and can avoid heavy traffic, I can easily meet or beat the EPA city rating. And on the highway, if it's clear sailing and the speed limit is 70 or less, same thing. But with lots of short trips and/or very cold weather and/or stop/go traffic, I would be hard pressed to hit the city EPA rating. Yesterday I was on a freeway for 2 hours, in the middle of a terrible ice/snow storm, crawling along at 5-10 mph a lot of the time. I didn't get near the EPA "highway" rating even though I was on the highway all the time.

But I do think Hyundai ought to package that reflash for other vehicles and sell it on the open market--they'd make a zillion bucks.

crankeee · March 2012

backy: Agree with your comments that the biggest FE factor is the driver and the conditions - not the car.
Flashing the transmission/computer control is a TSB that requires lots of testing and discussion prior to be implemented. The original programming is driven by many factors and once the code is burned in chnages are only made when needed due to bad code or something obvious.
Definately works when the problem is real and not driver or conditions induced per your prior comments.
How was your car in the ice and snow? Regular tires or low profile?

crankeee · March 2012

weiner: Math seems pretty good to me. Try a hypothetical 100 mile trip with 70 miles at 44 and 30 miles at 33 MPG. Total fuel of 2.5 gallons for 100 mile trip = 40 MPG.
Point of some limited access "freeways" to some, is that any of those miles add to MPG and the milkman route detracts.
I have never posted 40 MPG.
As backy has posted, the most impact on MPG is from driver and conditions, not the vehicle. Surely there are bad computers and engine management systems but it seems logical that there are more bad drivers and unfriendly FE situations than bad computers - maybe not. Good luck with the math.

backy · March 2012

Regular tires, fortunately with some sidewall to them because this was a "washboard" type road rutted with ice. Fortunately, within a few hours the warmish weather and road salt had done its job and the highways were livable again.

gofor40mpg · March 2012

I purchased the Elantra in January 2012. I have to say that the mpg that I am getting is good, for the driving that I do. I drive fwy and city. Twice I have achieved 31.4 MPG's. Using the Eco. The computer was about 2 MPG's higher.
This tank of gas I am on now, I turned off the Eco, and driving more city. I am trying to see if I can get the least MPG's out of this car. From reading some of the reviews, I see that some people are getting less than 25 MPG's. I live in new mexico. The city I live in is not flat, from west to east. North to south is not flat either. Except in the valley north to south. The lowest point of the city is 5000
Feet above sea level. I live at 5270 feet, and i drive past the lowest point, and go up to about 5330 feet. Driving around the city, it is up and down constantly.
Read my review's, I will be updating on the MPG's. One thing to keep in mind,
The manufactures say ( UP TO 29 and 40 MPG'S ). The key word, UP TO. Everybody has different driving habbits. The terrain is also different. Back to what I am trying to do. I will update on the MPG'S to see what I get by driving harder, more city driving, and with Eco off. I am less close to empty on this tank.
I am seeing less MPG'S So far. I believe that I am getting about 27/28 MPG's. The computer is showing 30.5 avg. so I have not dropped in MPG that much.
But will see when I do the actual calculation. So far I am pleased with the Elantra. It handles very good. It's very comfortable. By the way, I have the limited with everything, that means it is the heaviest car of all the models.

gofor40mpg · March 2012

Ok, I now have 1,565 miles on my Elantra. The last two tanks, I got 31.4 MPG's. This last tank I
said that i will trun off the Eco and drive more city. I have. And I drove harder, And yes the MPG's
did drop.. I got 28.1 MPG's from this tank. traveled 292.3 miles, and used 10.4 gallons of fuel. The computer Avg was 30.6. Again, the computer is about 2 MPG's high.. My goal on this tank was to see how I can get the lowest MPG's, Perhaps I could have done worse.. But that was still better from the very first day I drove the car off the lot, using that tank full.
Here is what I have been logging since I bought the car.. I hope this helps..
I Calculate the MPG'S MY self. That way I can get a true and consistant MPG reading..
This day on March 8th. I filled up with 86 Octane. I want to see if there will be a difference in the MPG's, from useing 88 Octane.
that is real world MPG's.. I will UpDate again...

divide miles & Gallons filled = Avg MPG'S 292.3 @ 10.4 = 28.1 MPG'S
Date Avg comp: Miles per tank: Gal filled: Cal, Act Avg: Cost:
Jan: 24th <27/29? 274 ? full 24/(27) free
Feb: 1st. 32 308.5 9.9 30 $30.90
Feb: 9th 33.1 336.2 10.3 31.4 $33.78
Feb:18th. 33.6 323.9 10.7 31.4 $35.85 Feb: 28th 30.6 292.3 10.3 28.1 $36.70
Mar: 8th 10.4 86oct $37.26

g2iowa · March 2012

With odo now at 2,352 miles driven in past 4 1/2 months of ownership, went 227.9 miles on 7.740 gals of regular (non-ethanol) unleaded. Came out to 29.44 mpg actual. Computer calculated 31.8 mpg; continues to read about 2-3 mpg high. Avg'd only 27 mph for this tank. Was about 65% city and 35% highway. ECO on entire time. Temps mostly in the 30s-40s.

bhmr59 · March 2012

There is a problem in calculating mpg over so low a number of miles. Two weeks ago I got gas after about 227 miles (records are at my office so this is approx) and my calculated mpg was about 20 or 21. Today I stopped at the same station and pump after 230.4 miles and took 12.97 gallons which calculates to 17.76 mpg. (This is a 6 cyl, '05 Sonata rated at 19/27). My driving pattern was essentially the same and the weather was warmer in the past 2 weeks than in the prior 2 weeks. I think what happened is that the pump clicked off early last time (I always stop pumping when it clicks off). If I add the miles driven in the last month and the gallons used and then calculate the mpg, that should produce a more accurate average MPG. 1/2 gal low last time and 1/2 gal high today would produce a 1.5 mpg difference. You'll get a much more accurate reading of your average mpg if you calculate it after 1,000 miles.

g2iowa · March 2012

If you look back over the posts, thinking I've posted the results for every tank since the late Oct '11 purchase. I try to use the exact same station & pump and type of gas (non-ethanol) and I try to est. the city/hwy breakdown. I also try to post the avg. mph and weather data, and anything else that might influence the tank results. Yes, I'd like to go till the tank was nearly on fumes before refilling, but in the real world, esp. here in midwest winters I don't let her go below half a tank. I go 2/3rds or so in summer. Only time I go below 3/4s is on long interstate trips. And I could re-average all the tanks up till now if I wanted to, but due to variability in fuels and weather, makes more sense to me to track by tankfuls and look for any anomolies.

m6user · March 2012

Why not report both. Total miles/total gals. would provide a "real world" avg over different temps etc. Compare that to the EPA estimated avg mpg. I usually avg my mpg over 4-5 tanks in the winter and in the summer just to make sure nothing has significantly changed for some reason. They are usually about 2mpg different(winter being lower of course). My summer avg is usually about EPA avg or one better. Winter is the same but maybe one lower. I measure hwy mpg only on long trips just to see how it compares with the EPA estimate and it is usually 2-3 mpg better than the EPA hwy number. This is the way it's been on my present three vehicles and for several others in the past.

secor · March 2012

I just bought a 2012 Elantra limited last Friday. Too soon to make any judgements on the fuel economy. In reading the maintenance manual I see a recommendation of adding a fuel system cleaner at recommended oil changes. I asked the dealership service manager about this recommendation and his response was that the ethanol is not as clean burning as 100% gas which is the reason for the recommendation. He also said adding the cleaner is like chicken soup, "it can't hurt". At about $15.00/16 oz bottle at the dealership, I think I'll purchase my own Chevron Techtron additive and do it myself. I would like to hear David's (Hyundai Tech) thoughts on the additive.

I recently traded in a 2008 Sante Fe GLS AWD which I liked very much but wanted a vehicle with better gas mileage. Am going through some buyers remorse now as I liked the size of the Sante Fe much better and it felt like a safer vehicle due to it's weight and size. Also like driving higher up so I can see a bit more. I don't drive very much and it will take me years to recoup my "out of pocket" money I spent to purchase the new vehicle with my trade in. Oh well, live and learn!

backy · March 2012

Maybe you should have waited a few months for the Elantra GT (hatchback)--would have been closer to your Santa Fe in utility.

gman4911 · March 2012

FYI, the brands of top tier gas that the owner's manual is referring to can be found at www.toptiergas.com. But that doesn't mean brands not listed aren't top tier quality - they just haven't paid to have their gas certified.

As far as Chevron Techron, yeah, $15 for 16 oz bottle is a bit steep. The 20 oz bottles are on sale for $6.50 at Advanced Auto Parts thru Mar 28.

gofor40mpg · March 2012

My first full tank off the lot, brand new 35 miles on it, I got about 25 MPG's too. That was expected for the first tank to get poor MPG's. It got better each tank full. I got an AVG of 31.4 MPG's twice. that is with the eco on, and 88 oct.
you have to let that engine get some miles on it... Yes and Yes, it has to loosen up, Brake in.. period. I am coming up on 2000 miles, this last tank. I AVG 30.7
MPG's. It dropped just over one gallon, since the 31.4 MPG'S that I was getting. The last tank I AVG 28.1. On that tank, I turned the Eco off. I did more
city driving, and i drove harder. I was trying to get less that 25 MPG's. Did not get there. Give the car some time to improve on the MPG's..

gofor40mpg · March 2012

Ok, this is another update.
This tank, I AVG out 30.7 MPG's, using 86oct. I did not see any difference form using the 88oct.
This time was very interesting. I spent about 45 minutes in stop, and not so go traffic. The fwy was shut down more that 6 hours. So i had to seek out a different route. It took another 40 plus minutes to get to my destination, when I did find a route to use. In stop and go traffic, I was watching the computer MPG's, it did not drop below 26 MPG's, all that time.. I thought that was pretty amazing, compared to what other's have been saying, Less than 25 MPG's. Note: over and hour it took me to get to my destination. It would normally take me, 20 minutes. Then another 30 plus minute driving home. Longer route.
So all in all, I should be AVG over 30 Mpg's. Just about in any situation. MPG's are getting better,
and fwy driving is getting better. I think that is why i ended up with the 30.7 MPG'S overall... I also think i would have gotten better MPG'S if i did not have over an hour of stop and go.. I can see if others are not getting over the 30 MPG's in that type of situation. Stop and go traffic. But i would think overall they can maintain at least or close to 30 MPG's.
Last Note: I will be using 86oct in this tank.. And i will do another update to see what the increase on the MPG's will be.. So far so good

eweiner · March 2012

$4 at Pepboys

drew11m · March 2012

After 18300 miles with my Elantra Limited, I averaged overall 30.3mpg, with about 70/30 highway/city mix. I think anyone averaging 30-32 overall is about the norm. City mileage really seems to eat up the overall mpg's. You will notice the trip computer is always 1-2mpg over than the actual.

I ended up trading mine in for a 12 Jetta diesel premium, Wanted a little more engine and better mpg, but overall the Elantra was a nice little car. I had overhigh expectations for mpg though.

g2iowa · March 2012

I wonder if too many people aren't overestimating their highway miles and underestimating their city, esp. stop-and-go traffic? A key is to look at your average MPH for each tank. When I started doing that I noticed that my city driving was a higher percentage than I'd have thought, probably due to stop signs and lights. I don't think I've had but one or two tanks where I've averaged over 30 MPH for the tank. When the average MPH are low, means you're spending a high percentage of your time in 1-4 gears of the AT. Absolute best mileage is in 5-6 (overdrive) gears in the 35-55 MPH range.

backy · March 2012

Yes, there's a direct correlation between average speed and mpg. I saw this demonstrated again today when I filled up both of my cars, my 2010 Sentra and my wife's 2007 Sonata. My average speed on the Sentra was 34 mph and my fuel economy on the tank was 34.8 mpg... which is just above the EPA highway rating of 34 even though a lot of those miles were city/suburban driving. On the Sonata, the average speed was only 15 mph, and the FE was only 18.8 mpg... below the city EPA rating for the car. My wife does a lot of short in-town trips, and sits with the car idling a lot (e.g. waiting for our daughter to come out of school).

I recommend everyone who has an average speed on the trip computer (which the Elantra has) writes that down when they calculate their FE for each tank. Then be sure to reset the average speed when the FE meter is reset.

"YMMV"

gman4911 · March 2012

Yeah, I think the folks who aren't getting good numbers are probably driving more rush hour type driving than they realize and/or not driving as efficiently as they think they are.

I work from home so I don't get to drive in rush hour traffic like many people. I bought my car a couple weeks ago and I'm still on my first tank of gas. So far, on 200 miles driven, maybe 5% is at 55 MPH. The computer is reporting 30.2 MPG with an average speed of 17 MPH. So I'm doing better than the EPA City rating and it still haven't leveled out yet.

Anyone who wants to get better numbers should read the tips in this thread. They work for me.

g2iowa · March 2012

My computer has nearly always been a couple MPG too high when I compare it to actual gallons of fuel I pump. Seems like that holds true for a lot of people here. So if your computer is showing 30.2 mpg you might be closer to 28 mpg.

ronnomad · March 2012

New to this board and trying to see what other owners are experiencing.

Got our 2012 Elantra Limited in June. So far, just under 8,000 miles. Was unsatisfied with mileage at onset but was assured by dealer (sales & service reps) that economy would improve as engine was 'broken' in. Not sure how long this is supposed to take but I would think that after 7,500 miles and two oil changes economy should be closer to what was advertised.

To date overall MPG is 29.84. Best single trip MPG 33.6 (280 mile round trip from Mesa, AZ to Tucson this past weekend). Experienced same MPG during trip from Las Vegas to Mesa (about the same distance as Tucson round trip) and trip ended with about 5,700 miles. On trip from Vegas, computer said average speed 65MPH. On Tuscon trip computer said 51MPH. Logic says that on lower average speed mileage should be higher.

Regardless, overall fuel economy (but particularly highway economy) is not where I expected.
Expected range on highway (using best MPG to date) is only 487 miles to empty. If I use the estimate on the window sticker it should be closer to 580. And, frankly, based on my ratio of highway to street travel driven, I expected the overall MPG to be closer to 35.

I agree with some of the other posts that the computer calculation of MPG is off (I have seen it off by up to 8%) and, it is off in both directions.

Although not accurate, I probably would appreciate an 'instant' MPG read. There was one on a 2011 Sonata I rented last year (in which I calculate I averaged 35+ MPG on a round trip from St. Louis, MO. to Memphis, TN) and it was this trip that led me to purchase the Hyundai. To be honest, one of the factors that led to the Elantra was the leap of faith that if the Sonata got that kind of MPG, the Elantra should be as good or better.

So, in first looking at this forum, I spotted indications that some owners have received some update to their vehicle's computer(?) that has dramatically increased MPG. Is this true and is there more info available?

Oh, one last point, the car is ALWAYS in ECON mode.

Hyundai Elantra Real World MPG 2012

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