Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

A Mechanic's Life - Tales From Under the Hood

12021232526180

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if you're going to throw in diesel engines, rather than my MINI Cooper which was the original "victim", then the shelf I'm groping at with my blindfold should have a diesel oil specification, just like the synthetic oils I was groping for had a petrol engine specification.

    As for a GT40, why didn't you suggest a Boeing 767 or a Formula I car---c'mon, get real.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    edited February 2013
    I would've thought that your list would be much longer and examples that wouldn't be nearly as exclusive as they are in your short list, if you were that certain of a win in this wager.

    Just for the record though...in any of my reply posts to you, it has not/is not my intention to indicate that I totally dismiss some of your points. You raise some interesting points and sound like a mechanic who has invested quite a lot in time, dollars and training. In quite a few ways, my hat goes off to you and srs49 and have always felt that a good, honest auto mechanic should be worth at least twice any plumbers and at least three times an electrician's wage.
    But alas, life isn't fair and doubt those examples will ever even out. Never understood it tough. Yes a plumber can get really dirty (and it's the kind of dirt that should pay a lot) but neither a plumber or electrician has to be kept as up to date as you guys do with ever changing technology.

    An auto-mechanic (again, a good one and honesty being crucial) is a labour of love..it reminds me of truck driving in that one way in that you don't do either for the money..
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    edited February 2013
    This is the language from my daughter's 2008 Nissan Altima 2.5SL owner's manual regarding the proper oil to use in the engine...

    Select only engine oils that meet the American Petroleum Institute (API) certification or International Lubricant Standardization and Approval
    Committee (ILSAC) certification and SAE viscosity standard. These oils have the API certification mark on the front of the container. Oils which do not have the specified quality label should not be used as they could cause engine damage.


    That seems fairly generic to me regarding oil specifications.

    On viscosity, the manual states...

    Oil viscosity

    The engine oil viscosity or thickness changes with temperature. Because of this, it is important to select the engine oil viscosity based on the temperatures at which the vehicle will be operated before the next oil change. Choosing an oil viscosity other than that recommended could cause serious engine damage.


    I would imagine that the majority of oils on the shelf at Walmart fit those specifications and requirements. All one needs to do is to select the proper viscosity, which is detailed in the manual as 5W-30 in this instance.

    Just for the record, that includes Nissan VQ35DE and QR25DE engines.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think automotive technicians should embrace, and even brag about, all that is noble in their profession -- but they should not become like many doctors and lawyers--telling their clients that they couldn't possibly understand the body of knowledge which said specialist has mastered.

    For many Americans, a big repair bill is a serious event in their financial lives, and there's nothing wrong with having them grope for affordable solutions.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I would maintain that not even the viscosity would matter in my 12,000 blind test, unless I picked (blindly) some extreme single-weight....which I never see on shelves anyway.

    (What I was thinking of is how variable valve systems might be affected by extreme heavyweight oils in extreme climates).
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Yes, shiftright that is a pretty good analogy.

    One of the worse things a potential patient can do is throw their arms up in the air.."here I am Doc, fix me"

    I recall a very astute Doc used to run the odd scenario by my mother (who was not a doctor, but his patient and an extremely intelligent woman) when he had a heart disease patient. He asked her, because he KNEW she had read up and researched over the years probably more than himself in that specialism illness, and also he saw the proof in that she had literally reversed her heart disease over about 14 years of diligence and learned knowledge. She researched what worked, on who, the conditions etc and what didn't.

    She died of pancreatic cancer instead, and her heart which had suffered 76% damage over the years from heart attacks, she had strengthened and made healthy...so much so that it prolonged her suffering with the cancer. :(

    My point is though, what you are saying too..don't be helpless, don't belittle the specialist or expert, but also don't go in there brainless bowing to their self-proclaimed greatness. Most would agree than an educated patient/car owner are easier to deal with than ignorant ones.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    As for a GT40, why didn't you suggest a Boeing 767 or a Formula I car---c'mon, get real.

    "IF" you are correct just think of the great vacation you could have had on someone elses dime. ;)

    For the record I can do this with a more common list of vehicles, and your risk of a resulting failure could be just as real, just not as expensive.

    rather than my MINI Cooper
    For the sake of everyone following what oil does your Mini actually call for?
    When I look it up in MOD it is VERY specific.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited February 2013
    >"Break-in" oil is not a term you hear about very often anymore

    That's because it isn't needed anymore.

    This is what Honda says in their Owner Link (I pulled up a 2013 CR-V).

    "Your Honda engine was delivered with an oil that is specially formulated for new engines that have not yet developed their "natural" wear patterns and may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process.

    American Honda strongly recommends this special oil be left in the engine long enough for these wear patterns to develop, usually until the first maintenance interval specified in your Owner's Manual, based on your specific driving conditions."

    The "net" says the Honda "break-in" oil has more molybdenum in it.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    Not at all, but you have to walk to the other side of the counter and imagine how your customers view your operation.

    What good would it do to not do the job correctly in order to meet an improper perspective?
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    Toyota had the same language in 2004-2007 and suffered sludging concerns. Chrysler had the same problem. The failures are the direct result of the API and ILSAC spec'ed oil not actually meeting the engines needs. The manufacturers ate the warranty expenses related to those failures. Now if they had instead required a product that met their engines needs, would that have been wrong to do?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited February 2013
    There's nothing improper about trying to understand the problem, trying to save a buck or trying to do it yourself.

    I argue discuss my "engine" with my doc all the time btw. It's my body and I have some ideas on what works and doesn't. I expect her to listen and suggest alternatives and make recommendations. And I don't get yelled at or fired when I treat myself using the internet (plantar fasciitis most recently) or decline a test.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    The "net" says the Honda "break-in" oil has more molybdenum in it

    More "moly" than what????

    Your Honda engine was delivered with an oil that is specially formulated for new engines that have not yet developed their "natural" wear patterns and may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process.

    You can call that "break in oil" if you choose to because it does fit the definition in a sense, but it is not the break in oil that was referred to in the previous post. There is a big difference in the "moly" use and the zinc phosphates when it comes to emission component's lifespans.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    There's nothing improper about trying to understand the problem,

    I agree.

    trying to save a buck or trying to do it yourself.

    But that's a deflection/misdirection to the topic.

    And I don't get yelled at or fired when I treat myself using the internet (plantar fasciitis most recently) or decline a test.

    So what happens if you try to treat someone else?
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    I would imagine that the majority of oils on the shelf at Walmart fit those specifications and requirements. All one needs to do is to select the proper viscosity, which is detailed in the manual as 5W-30 in this instance.

    The API/ILSAC is of course only a minimum standard.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited February 2013
    I assume more moly than the Honda oil you put in at the first oil change.

    Now we get back to my gripe that if I buy a Honda, do I have to buy "special oil" from the dealer every time I want to do an oil change? :shades:

    (My car, my body, my consequences, although I did diagnosis BPPV in my wife a few months back and showed her the web link to the self treatment).
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    Now we get back to my gripe that if I buy a Honda, do I have to buy "special oil" from the dealer

    No, but if you buy one where it requires the specification HTO-06, you'd be well advised to look for the dexos label on the front of the bottle, and then take a look and you'll see that the Honda spec is on the backside....
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited February 2013
    But gee, the jug says it's universal. :D

    The 5W20 stuff I get says "Meets or exceeds the latest industry specification" and has the Starburst on it. So now I have to paw through all the jugs looking for the HTO-06 spec? Bah.

    Oh look, the Mobile1 has the 2dexos label and is the official oil of NASCAR. I guess that means the molecular tails of the oil only curl to the left?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited February 2013
    doc i can tell you're afraid of my bet because you are trying to narrow the parameters to increase your odds :P

    My MINI specs are for 5W30 synthetic and I've got 100,000 miles on the table that says that this MINI doesn't CARE what "kind" of 5W30 synthetic it eats, as long as it is what it says it is on the can.

    Now this does not mean I am careless. I'm *very* particular, for instance, about spark plug types and heat range and about fuel, because those two items *CAN* screw up a somewhat heavily boosted engine.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    doc i can tell you're afraid of my bet because you are trying to narrow the parameters to increase your odds

    Not afraid of it, just putting it into the proper perspective. I suspect anyone without having been into formal training recently is thinking of a failure being solely in the terms of crank and bearing issues. It's likely they are not thinking camshaft, and before this thread they were not thinking about timing chain and emissions controls.

    If we switch to a GDI (gasoline direct injected) platform and you use too heavy of an oil, you can get the same piston failure (meltdown) that the wrong spark plugs could cause. The engine oil has to be thin enough to flow very quick to cool the pistons, yet still be able to protect the other engine components, and not cause issues with the emissions system.

    The wrong viscosity of engine oil will also cause issues with the variable cam timing controls, and while it doesn't have to result in damage during your trip, that's not to say that you are going to be immune from a check engine light.

    The most important thing here is what you might get away with in your older Mini is not representative for the care and product choice that many other new car owners have to be educated about. Nothing else about this really matters IMO.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    edited February 2013
    My MINI specs are for 5W30 synthetic and I've got 100,000 miles on the table that says that this MINI doesn't CARE what "kind" of 5W30 synthetic it eats, as long as it is what it says it is on the can.

    Mitchell on Demand specifies MINI 5W30 Full Synthetic by name. It does not afford me any choices.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    So now I have to paw through all the jugs looking for the HTO-06 spec?

    You mean you didn't know that Honda has some engines that require a proprietary oil specification that exceeds the API and ILSAC standards?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited February 2013
    Oh, before I forget Doc, do you send the vehicle data to Mitchell when you get a car in the shop? The VIN, mileage and service stuff?

    And if you do, do you ask for the owner's permission before doing so?

    Mitchell (and the rest I assume) sells that info Carfax and the rest I understand.

    (Never had a Honda).
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    Toyota had the same language in 2004-2007 and suffered sludging concerns. Chrysler had the same problem. The failures are the direct result of the API and ILSAC spec'ed oil not actually meeting the engines needs. The manufacturers ate the warranty expenses related to those failures. Now if they had instead required a product that met their engines needs, would that have been wrong to do?

    Well, then, what is the average consumer to do?

    If you can't rely on the manufacturer's specifications, then its really no more than a crap-shoot in the end.

    No offense, but it seems to me one starts skating on thin ice when they start attempting to overrule the manufacturer's suggested maintenance criteria.

    To most concerned consumers, it starts looking more like a measuring contest...And less like responsible advice.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    >Mitchell (and the rest I assume) sells that info Carfax and the rest

    Does that work the same for body shops? What kind of payment or reward do the stores get for turning in information on the customer work paid for by the customer without the customer's permission?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,638
    If you can't rely on the manufacturer's specifications, then its really no more than a crap-shoot in the end.

    I've heard that for a few years, Chrysler published the wrong specs for transmission fluid. I forget the exact details, but I think they were supposed to take something called "9196" or "Type +4", but they accidentally specified "7176" or "Type +3". Supposedly, this was one of the primary culprits behind the early failure of their 4-speed automatic transmissions.

    Dunno if there's any truth to that though. And, if it's true, I wonder if Chrysler would step up to bat? I know someone who bought a Dodge Dynasty brand-new, and it ate its first transmission within 36K miles, picked up under warranty. The second one died around 85K or so, and I think they covered half of it.

    My 2000 Intrepid's transmission schedule called for 100K intervals under the "regular" schedule and 50K under "severe". My goal was to shoot for every 30K, just to be safe, but I think it ended up being something like 30K, 75K, 100K, and 130K. Never made it to 160K, as someone pulled a hit-and-run on it in a parking lot at 150K, and sent it to an early grave.
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    edited February 2013
    I can understand an incorrect specification being printed and distributed initially, but it seems to me it would be in the manufacturer's best interests (financially, image, etc.) to send an update ASAP.

    I know, in the case of my daughter's Altima, she received a letter about 1 1/2 years after buying it that clarified exactly what CVT fluid was acceptable, and more importantly, what wasn't.

    To manufacture a multi-year production run with a gross error in the manual specifications stretches my ability to accept such a thing.

    My wife owned a 1990 Plymouth minivan with 4-speed auto, and the transmission fried at 77 K miles. Chrysler replaced it for free, but my understanding was that it was a common problem caused by excessive heat buildup, not a fluid failure. I know a couple of other folks that had the same vehicle type, and the same transmission failure.

    In the end, the "go to" source is always the manufacturer. My personal feeling is that, if you can't trust the manufacturer, then you can't trust anyone when it comes to service. Heck, they built it, so they ought to know what's best.

    Edit: Here's a link to the mis-labeled transmission "incident".

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultradrive

    It never was applicable to our vehicle, since we never had the transmission serviced...
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,638
    My wife owned a 1990 Plymouth minivan with 4-speed auto, and the transmission fried at 77 K miles. Chrysler replaced it for free, but my understanding was that it was a common problem caused by excessive heat buildup, not a fluid failure. I know a couple of other folks that had the same vehicle type, and the same transmission failure.

    77K miles...got one of the good ones, did ya? ;) As for the fluid thing, I asked my mechanic at the time about it, and he said the only thing the 7176 would do, versus the 9196, was make it shift more harshly. So, I've always thought the fluid thing was a bit of a red herring, and perpetuated by those who would defend Mopar at all costs. (as much as I've loved my Chrysler products over the years, even I have my limits...)

    My theory was always that the transmission was simply poorly engineered, and under-built. In smaller, lighter cars it wouldn't be too bad, but mate it to something heavy, or something with a lot of torque, and that's where the problems would be more likely to pop up. As the years went by, they did improve the transmission, but I don't think they ever truly got it "right".
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    I change the brake fluid in all my cars at 6 to 24 month intervals(depending on what the OM calls for and whether they see the track or not). That said, I can see where someone who is mechanically ignorant and inept would call it a rip-off if the OM did not call for a change.

    Of course I also change the "lifetime fill" ATF and final drive oil in my BMWs at 50,000 mile intervals and I change the Mazdaspeed 3's transaxle oil every 30,000 miles(using Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid). And they ALL get coolant changes(using OEM coolant ONLY) at 2-3 year intervals.

    But then I'm the guy who is so reckless that he changes his own motor oil and batteries...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I have never used "MINI" oil, whatever that is supposed to be---probably a can of Mobil 1 with a new label glued on it.

    My two cents is that if a new 2013 car has an engine that will implode if I use a 20W multiple rather than a 10W multiple, but oil of the same quality, that I really don't want that fragile little french poodle anyway.

    I'm not going to Mars--I don't need that level of narrow engineering.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    2dexos label

    Typo or intentional?

    the official oil of NASCAR. I guess that means the molecular tails of the oil only curl to the left?

    Is that supposed to be funny?
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    But gee, the jug says it's universal

    Love the disclaimer at the bottom of the page.....
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    Oh, before I forget Doc, do you send the vehicle data to Mitchell when you get a car in the shop? The VIN, mileage and service stuff?

    No, and they have never requested it.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    Well, then, what is the average consumer to do?

    If you look you'll realize that in this case, pay attention to the person who has had specific training on this subject and is sharing that information.

    If you can't rely on the manufacturer's specifications, then its really no more than a crap-shoot in the end.

    You can rely on the manufacturers specs, you need to rely on the manufactuers specs. Many manufactures are not relying on API and ILSAC anymore.

    To most concerned consumers, it starts looking more like a measuring contest...And less like responsible advice

    Now why would "some" oil companies and certain representatives of this site want it to be that way?
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    I change the brake fluid in all my cars at 6 to 24 month intervals(depending on what the OM calls for and whether they see the track or not). That said, I can see where someone who is mechanically ignorant and inept would call it a rip-off if the OM did not call for a change.

    Putting an end to being wrong both ways starts by demonstrating that this has been happening to technicians and shops for a long time.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,382
    All this oil talk is a big reason why I just take my car to the Honda dealer (well, the Hondas I do!). Especially when they are under warranty. does 2 things. 1 is it (should) make sure that the right fluids go into the car. 2 is that if there is an issue, they have all the records and the responsibility that goes along with having touched it. So, when the MM system says go in, it goes in.

    and if that is not enough to keep the car and engine healthy, the system is woefully broken.

    and unlike a quickie lube, they also check to see what else is called for (though the MM also tells that). For the most part, the owners manual does not even have a schedule any more.

    Like RB though, I tend to do some things early. Specifically, trans fluid changes and coolant.

    I let the dealer do the brake fluid too when called for, but pretty sure that Honda and BMW (if they still do) are the only makers that actually call for it. I know my other cars never did.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited February 2013
    Does that work the same for body shops? What kind of payment or reward do the stores get for turning in information on the customer work paid for by the customer without the customer's permission?

    Beats me - just "stuff" I read on the net. Supposedly it's the Mitchell SE Management Program that automatically sends customer information, repairs, mileage, etc. directly to Carfax. But you know what they say about "stuff" you read on the net. :shades:
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    Here's my regimen for my daily drivers:
    Mazdaspeed3: oil change and any other services called for every 7,500 miles- at the dealer. I use only Mobil 1 5W-30; since it is a DI turbo I like that the oil meets HTO-06. Oil changes are free(I provide the oil) since I bought the car at that dealer.

    X3 2.5: I change the oil at 1/2 the interval that the SI system calls for(@8,000 miles). No oil I have tried maintains a TBN above 1.0 to 10,000 miles, including Mobil 1 0W-40(an LL-01 oil). I tried Mobil 1 5W-40 for several runs and settled on Rotella T6 5W-40 as used oil analysis has shown that all three oils perform similarly. The oil services and inspections are performed at the dealer, which has an excellent service department that never tries to upsell unnecessary work.

    328i: Ditto, except that I use only Mobil 1 0W-40 since the car is still under warranty. All services called for by the CBS are performed at the above dealer.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,382
    so you are doing BMW oil changes every 4K? Or is it 8K?

    Quite a bit shorter than the newer ones that seem to be pushing 15K+!

    My Acura just hit 4,000 miles, and the MM is still showing 60%, but likely drops to 50% in the next few days. Changes are supposed to be done when you hit 15%, so I am figuring about 7,500 miles.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    Sorry for the confusion- I change it every 8,000.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    Quite a bit shorter than the newer ones that seem to be pushing 15K

    Drivers habits can have a significant impact on the mileage that the monitor will allow. The more highway miles one drives, the longer the distance can be. Aggressive driving doesn't relay into a significant decrease in interval lengths, but frequent starts with short trips will knock it down fast.

    FWIW my Ford escape gets has been getting to the 10% mark as early as 7800 miles and as late as 9000. I have run Mobil 1 in my Escape, but now that there is the WSS M2C945-B (Full Synthetic) I switched to it.

    I do oil analysis on every other change to monitor how well the maintenance system is doing, so far so good. At 90% the oil hasn't even darkened but I average over 400 highway miles each week because of the teaching gig.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited February 2013
    I always heard that the color of oil on your dipstick shows nothing about whether the oil is okay or if it should be changed.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    I always heard that the color of oil on your dipstick shows nothing about whether the oil is okay or if it should be changed

    I haven't "always" heard about whether oil can be judged by color or not and taken without real experience I've seen people try and manipulate that statement both ways.

    If your oil looks like roofing tar, it needs replaced. There is a viscosity component to what this oil "looks" like.

    The oil in my Escape right now looks like it just came out of the bottle, except it's got 7000 miles on it, and the monitor just dropped under 20% left. By the time the next 10% clicks off next week the oil will still "look OK" and no doubt if I had an analysis done it would in fact still have useable life. But its going to be replaced anyway.

    Do you see how many posts we did today in this thread? ;)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited February 2013
    If a mechanic pulled out my dipstick and said my oil was dirty just because it was black or just dark, I'd probably go ballistic on him (or her). (Amsoil) (Texlube)

    Your oil is so clean from not holding the dirt in suspension, the soot must be sludging up the engine, lol. (The Dark Oil Myth)

    Do you see how many posts we did today in this thread?

    You're a popular guy, Doc. :D
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    If a mechanic pulled out my dipstick and said my oil was dirty just because it was black or just dark, I'd probably go ballistic on him (or her).

    So that's the only way?

    http://www.fluidtesting.com/
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    Your oil is so clean from not holding the dirt in suspension, the soot must be sludging up the engine, lol. (The Dark Oil Myth)

    You can't believe everything that's on the net. There are some things that are correct there, and some that are quite dated and no longer valid.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited February 2013
    Well, you were talking about how "clean" your oil looked. If it looks so clean why bother with a $20 analysis? The paper test you linked to isn't the same as looking at the dipstick or rubbing some oil between your fingers or putting a drop on a paper towel.

    If you want more sources for my dirty oil post, I can give you Valvoline for number 3 (or was is #4?). How many more would you like me to try to dig up? :shades:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Is there an injector kill function on OBD-II cars if one cylinder is heavily misfiring?
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    OK so you gave us (me) a Valvoline page. Search dexos on that page, and scroll to the bottom. You will find a chart and the information in it is this.

    http://www.valvoline.com/promos/dexos.jsp

    Product Grade dexos spec Other specifications
    SynPower 5W-30 dexosTM1 ILSAC GF5 API SN/Resource
    Conserving, ACEA A5
    SynPower 5W-30 dexosTM1 ILSAC GF-5, API SN/Resource
    Conserving, ACEA A1
    DuraBlend 5W-30 dexosTM1 ILSAC GF-5, API SN/Resource
    Conserving, ACEA A1
    NextGen DuraBlend
    5W-30 dexosTM1 ILSAC GF-5, API SN/Resource
    Conserving, ACEA A1
    SynPower MST
    5W-30 dexosTM2 API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B4-04,
    ACEA C3-08, MB 229.51,
    BMW LL-04,
    VW 502.00/505.00/505.01

    Now learn how to read exactly what is there.
    In 2004 ACEA updated their ratings format. They no longer use the single A1, A3, A5. The correct format is the ACEA A1/B1 or as you see just above with the SynPower MST ACEA A3/B4-04 which means it is the 2004 specification.

    The "A" portion of the rating is for gasoline engines, and the "B" portion for diesels

    ACEA A1/B1 is not a long life oil, it is a thin (North American) specification for year round use. ACEA A5/B5 is an extended drain version of the A1/B1.

    ACEA A3/B4 is a "thick"(European) specification capable of year round use and extended drain intervals

    Which of the following correctly displays the GM specification?

    a. DexosTM1 b. dexos 1 c. dexos1 d. Dexos
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    Is there an injector kill function on OBD-II cars if one cylinder is heavily misfiring

    It's more of a manufacturers function than an OBDII requirement. Ford makes liberal use of shutting down an injector when a misfire is detected. By turning off the injector, and then adjusting the fuel trim feedback map accordingly they can prove that they are not polluting the air, and they also protect the catalysts from damage. That combination can create a situation where the engine starts misfiring which results in a flashing check engine light, but if the misfire stops quick enough it doesn't result in a code setting.

    An example is the exhaust valve springs are weak on my 2002 Ford Explorer. Under a hard pull, over 4000rpm say pulling a trailer up a hill I'll get a flashing MIL. If I lift the throttle, and allow the engine to downshift the mil stops flashing and no code is set. If I would stay in the throttle, #1 injector would get shut down for a period of time, and then the PCM would attempt to turn it back on when the engine load changed. If it misfires then, it will turn it back off and may or may not set a code depending on the number and type of misfires that were detected.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,737
    Well, you were talking about how "clean" your oil looked. If it looks so clean why bother with a $20 analysis?

    Because you can't tell anymore just by looking at the color! That means oil that is "clear" can in fact be at the end of it's useable life, while in another engine you could have a condition where the oil is black from picking up old deposits and it does not necessarily need to be changed yet.

    The paper test you linked to isn't the same as looking at the dipstick or rubbing some oil between your fingers or putting a drop on a paper towel

    And it isn't twenty dollars a pop either, but it is very accurate.
Sign In or Register to comment.