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Help starting restoration
iwannaporsche
Member Posts: 1
in General
Me and my friend are restoring a 1969 VW westfalia
camper. We were just wondering Whats do we do to
prep the body for Painting? What about interior?
Are there any restoration catalogs for the camper.
Thanks alot.
camper. We were just wondering Whats do we do to
prep the body for Painting? What about interior?
Are there any restoration catalogs for the camper.
Thanks alot.
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http://www.enteract.com/~se/ellie.htm
A Westphalia isn't an easy restoration--it's a big and complex vehicle (interior, I mean, lots of stuff in there!), so you should plan it out carefully before you begin. If the body is dented up, you might want to consider having the initial bodywork done professionally, since those large, flat surfaces are very tricky to get straight. But if you're patient you can do it, if you use the right tools and techniques.
Also, you might want to look at comparing the restoration costs on your particular vehicle (write yourself up a budget after you've figured out what you'll need to do) to just buying a good one that's already been done by someone (less fun but perhaps more economical).
good luck with your project. Maybe other folks here have some good suggestions for parts suppiers or restoration guides. Here's one place to shop for manuals and tools:
www. hemmings.com
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REA
Basically, this job involved making yourself a paper pattern of the door panel size and opening that are needed. The material can be glued or stapled, and the door panel itself can be attached using small sheet metal screws surrounded by nice chrome finishing bezels. The tricky part is a pull handle, (nice ones are found in any MGB parts catalog, like MOSS MOTORS LTD) which of course is not attached TO the door panel, but THROUGH it to the metal door frame...also with sheet metal screws, but sturdy ones. Also, you MUST install the plastic vapor barrier that goes between the metal door frame and the new door panel.
Good luck with your project!
1. Look up the real market value of the car your going to restore. Hemmings, N.A.D.A., Edmund's etc will give you a really good idea. Don't fundge your vehicles estimated value and you won't end at the short end of the stick.
2. Do not even consider a restoration on the vehicle unless your prepared to take a loss or maybe break even on the car. Restoration for amateurs is a hobby not a business.
3. Get connected to a local club or restoration resource for your particular marque. There is a lot of crap available out there so don't just trust the first available commercial resource you find. Club members can provide trusted contacts that'll make your restoration job a heck of a lot easier.
4. Always, always, always do it for the joy of restoration not because of the profit. Enjoy the work and hours of relaxation away from the other stresses in your life and make it a project not a profit center. Restoration is wonderfully therapudic if your not in it for the money.
I COULDN'T CARE LESS ABOUT THE "REAL MARKET VALUE" OF MY CAR!!!!
Which by the way is probably about $5 on a good day. I'm going to restore this car because I like it, and it has sentamental value. It will never see a "real market" It's going to cost me about 10 grand to get the car looking nice, and probably much more once I add on all the extras I want. It will probably only be worth about 2 grand when finished. I've had these numbers quoted to me over and over, but I am, as yet, the only one who realizes that its not one of the 7 deadly sins to fix a car you really like, especially when your going to do it on your own dime.
I think Shifty and I were separated at birth. Nothing like cold concrete on the old bones to make you enjoy a hopeless resto. I enjoyed the garage in the winter. Snow flying. Wind howling. Fire burning and the wife safely in the house out of my hair. Convertible tops replacements are best installed in 80+ degree heat...however.
I think personally I'd wait till 80+ degree weather to do anything on a car. I have an aversion to being cold and wet, and fighting with an ornery machine only makes it worse, IMO.
Rea98d. Just happened to catch a re-run the other night and it was stuck in my head!
Unfortunately I have no memories of rebuilding engines with dad, and currently only do minor work on my daily drivers (brakes, starters, etc..).
Anybody have advice for me to get started? Like what cars are good for beginners? Post #4 was helpful.
I'm not out to make any money on the project. I just want a nice old car that I've restored
myself. I see plenty of old cars for sale on the web, along with parts.
Thanks.
-John
One of my faves is the 54-56 Buick 2-door. You coud find a decent one that needs restoration but is running and complete for under $5,000.
Under no circumstances should you tackle a car with RUST, or a car that is stripped. Much better to start with a complete car that is running, even if badly.
There are lots of late 40s & early 50s American cars that are cheap to buy right now...
I bought it for a good price {I think}. The engine has 70,000 original miles and was supposedly rebuilt 10,000 miles ago. The only problem is it set for a long time and now the engine is stuck. I would like to here it run before tearing it down {if possible} I have tried soaking it with diesel {still in the truck} and also tried to pull it and pop the clutch neither have worked.
I was recently told to fill the cylinders with coca cola and this would free it up,but to flush it out as soon as it was loose. I was also told to use water{they said it caused it to rust and it would also loosen the rust?}is either of these ideas reccomended?
Also being that it was rebuilt so few miles ago if I get it free what are the chances that I might not have to rebuild again.
Your ideas and info are greatly appreciated!!!!
P.S I do most all of the work on my other vehicles and do enjoy the cold wet concrete,and the grease and dirt in my eyes.
This being said, if pulling the truck didn't unfree it (ouch! Not a good thing to do, but, oh, well), then you will have to pull off the cylinder heads and see what's going on there. I suspect the piston rings are solidly frozen to the cylinder bores, or possibly somebody botched up the rebuild. You may have already broken all the rings anyway.
These flatheads are very simple, and I'm afraid you're probably going to have to pull that engine and disassemble it. But it'll be worth it, those old Pickups are worth something when restored, and they are fairly decent to drive on modern roads, too.
But think about what these advisors are tellling you....pour water in an engine? Whatever are they thinking?
The best way to restore an old truck is to just take your time with everything. If you find yourself rushing, or frustrated, or lacking in information, STOP and don't start until you're ready. This is the secret to a successful and pleasurable hobby like this, IMO.
www.hemmings.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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I went to the library and have found out that it takes about six steps to rechrome after you have taken the parts off the car and delivered to the plating place....any thoughts gladly accepted....!
Thanks, Wil
So I'd recommend replating rare and original parts only if you've seen samples of the plater's work.
Also, keep in mind that many car shows are now opening up a category for original cars, so that they don't have to compete with "checkbook" restorations that finish the car better than it ever left the factory originally. So rechroming might not be necessary if the original chrome is at least presentable. You could still enter it in shows if that's your desire.