Toyota Tundra Problems

justtry99 · February 2001

hello all, I am getting ready to buy a tundra and Im just doing some homework. I have been towing horses for some time now and many times I have had to apply harder than normal brakes my trailer has locked up and I have draged my trailer. my ABS on my ford F350 has never failed but most trailer breaks arnt that sophisticated unless you shelled out the big bucks for all the niceties

dayle · February 2001

My 2000 4x2 Limited makes a diesel like noise on
cold starts (30 degrees or below). It did not do
this last year during winter months. From another
site it appears that Toyota knows about this in
both Tundras and Sequoias. Mine lasts only a couple of minutes after I put a change of 5-30
full synthetic in. Toyota may allege that this is
"normal" but it smells to me like the old GM dealer standby, "they all do that". My plan is to
just drive an otherwise great truck, follow set
maintainence schedules with only Toyota dealer
service, and wait and see.

duckcaller · February 2001

Dayle - just how bad is this diesel noise? Is it like a real diesel or a "diesel-like" sound which you hear when you're accelerating while the engine is still cold? Can you hear it from the outside? Does it "growl" like a diesel when you're idling?

Reason I ask is that I've found my engine sounds different inside the cab while it's warming up - while I'm accelerating - but sounds perfectly normal from outside. If yours is making a REAL diesel sound, I'd be very concerned. If it's just making that "normal" Tundra warming up sound - well, we've all got that. My dealer tells me that it has to do with how the Tundra engine mixes gas/air while warming up - lots of gas and little air - which changes the "tone" of the exhaust system. As it warms up, it goes back to its "normal" sound.

z71bill · February 2001

I have owned 3 Toyotas (1 car, 2 trucks) never had a problem with any strange noises at cold start up. With the 2 trucks I lived in Minnesota - one winter the high temp for the month of January was -3. Most of the time it was -20 or colder. This did NOT include wind chill! If your engine makes funny noises when its cold something is wrong with it..

thefanatic1 · February 2001

on 10/16/00 (35672 miles)I went to my dealer with the complaint that I had a wheel bearing going out. they dismissed it as tire noise. on 1/2/01 (57960 miles)I had a wheel seal go out as a result of the bearing going bad. it took 27 days for repair, as this was not a problem that they had experienced before. they replaced the rear axle and bearing and brakes.
On 2/7/01 I started getting erratic transmission behavior. I called the dealer and they told me to bring it in for assessment. at 60049 miles, just short of getting to the dealer, it went out! Both of the problems were repaired under warranty. They supplied me with a rental vehicle both times at no charge.
Overall, I am very satisfied with my Tundra (V8
4 drive 2X4 SR5).
I have noticed that it takes longer cranking than my V6 Taco ma, but it has performed above my expectations. My Taco ma had 287,000 miles when I sold it with very few problems.

The handling problems mentioned by others may have to do with the very responsive nature of the Tundra. If you drive it like a Corvette, then no problems. Handle it GENTLY! It responds QUICK.
Overall, I am VERY pleased with my Tundra purchased on 6/15/00. I now have 63,500 miles and am very happy.

duckcaller · February 2001

Bill - go to the Toyota lot on a cold morning and take a V-8 Tundra for a test drive (one that hasn't been warmed up yet). You'll see (hear) what we're talking about. It doesn't sound like a diesel... it's just a little louder (throatier?) than normal. It only does this when you're accelerating, it's not at idle - and it only does it for the first one minute or so. I had the 4Runner with a V6 and while it didn't make this same sound, it definitely made a different sound when it was still warming up versus when it was fully warmed up. I think this is much ado about nothing.

duckcaller · February 2001

You must be one loyal Toyota customer... if I had any vehicle with just 60K miles on it and had to replace my rear axle and trammy, I'd seriously question my loyalty. I'm on my 4th Toyota now with roughly 180K miles total and haven't had the first lick of trouble. I mean, literally, I have had to do nothing but the normal service stuff in the owner's manual. I know that 4 vehicles and 180K miles doesn't work out to much on AVERAGE, but my first vehicle was a Celica GT that I traded for a 4x4 at 30K miles... I traded in the 4x4 at 40K miles for a 4Runner (I got married and was transferring to Germany and the wife wanted something more car-like!). I drove the 4Runner for ten years and 100K miles without any problems and just traded it in last year on the Tundra. I only have 10K miles so far on the Tundra but haven't had any trouble at all.

Did your dealer (or whoever fixed it for you) indicate what had caused the trouble in the first place?

bamatundra · February 2001

The Tundra uses a viscously coupled radiator fan. When the engine has been cold, it takes a few minutes for the fan to disengage and freewheel. The noise you are hearing is fan noise.

ratboy3 · February 2001

I would also be concerned about the diesel engine noise. Go have the service people look at it. Use the warranty and good luck.

chevytruck_fan · February 2001

Is this what you call legendary toyota quality, man I was fooled all along I thought that meant that you didn't have to change the tranny at 60,000, guess thats why Volvo, Rolls Royce, and BMW use GM transmissions.

Ok sorry for intruding but I had to post something in response to 60,000 tranny and rear end job.

duckcaller · February 2001

So the fan coupling makes the truck exhaust sound differently? I cannot even imagine how this would change the tone of the engine inside the cab. Could you explain further?

bess · February 2001

Sounds like piston slap to me.. ...just kiddin..

I think the theory on the fan clutch is an interesting thought..

What type of oil filter does the Tundra use? On Ford vehicles the oil filters have an anti-drainback valve to help hold
the oil in the top end when the truck is sitting for a long time.. Without this, the engine will knock on startup for a second or 2 on the first startup after sitting 10 hours or so.

bamatundra · February 2001

Since the fan is viscously coupled it takes a few minutes in cold weather before the fan disengages. While it is engaged quite a bit more noise comes from the engine compartment. This may be mistaken for exhaust or engine noise. Open your hood right after you have started your engine. Have someone rev it to 2 - 3 thousand RPM. It will seem like a hurricane. Drive the truck a few minutes and repeat this test. All you will hear is the engine and exhaust.

This does not explain the diesel noise that some people claim. Since neither my truck nor the other Tundra owners I know trucks do this - I cannot even attempt an explanation. I think it must be a very rare occurence.

dayle · February 2001

Duckcaller; a diesel like sound is the best analogy I can come up with. My Tundra does not make a diesel like sound while idling after a
cold start. It's rather a clicking or tapping sound sort of like a sticking hydraulic valve liter. The hammering, diesel like sound only
occurs after I back out and accelerate up to the
25 mph speed limit on my street. In other words,
the sound gets heavier in direct relation to the
load on the engine.

z71bill · February 2001

Man you drive a lot of miles! 63,500 in 8 months - what are you a cab driver Or do you have a 130 mile one way commute! (lol) You must burn almost a tank of gas per day.

Bamma I thought the fan clutch was designed to disengage when engine was cold, and fully engage when engine gets hot. You could be right on the Toyota, but it seems backwards to me.

stan49 · March 2001

I agree 100% with Dale #65 of 66.I have brought my truck in to have it checked out. And the service manager said it's a normal condition. I'm sorry but I don't believe that. this is my 4th toyota truck and they never sounded like this.

z71bill · March 2001

I know the Tundra was designed to have low oil pressure at idle - when the engine is cold what PSI does the gauge show. Could these two problems be related? Maybe low oil pressure & cold engine combined make the engine sound.

thefanatic1 · March 2001

I have a delivery service. No they didn't give me any idea of why the transmission went out. The axle was because they tried to convince me that the wheel bearing noise was just tire noise. When the seal went bad, it scored the axle.
I previously owned a 96 Tacoma X.-cab that I put just under 300,000 miles on in under 3 years. It had a transmission replaced at 42,500 miles. I had NO further problems with it. I bought it used with 16,000 miles on it. My overall expense for maintence was 4.5 cents per mile. At about 200,000 miles, I did have to put a wheel bearing in the right rear. My mechanic said that those things happen from time to time, but are not really usual.

fnaase · March 2001

I have a 2000 tundra with 18,000 miles. I've had
it for 1yr 3 om. I live on long island and have
experienced the diesel sound on really cold day
during the warm up and driving.
On another note. does any one have any problems
with wheel alignment? I have sent the truck in twice and have a problem where the outside edge of the tire prematurely wears.
Toyota claims that there is nothing wrong with the
alignment. I have checked tire pressure and it is
set to recommended lfs.

jakobsn · March 2001

I have been trying to locate a Tundra with AS brakes. None of the dealers in my area have any and they tell me that I have to place a special order to get one. Have any of you had the same problem? Is there a problem with Toyota AS? The dealers tell me there is no demand for the system. I don't understand how they no there is no demand when they don't have any trucks available with the option. Most buyers buy something available on the lot, they don't special order. Your comments would be appreciated.

ratboy3 · March 2001

Anyway, when I got my Tundra, the majority of the Tundra on the lot had ABS. I didnt look at them all but the ones I looked at had ABS. I thought it was standard back then because of the stock the dealer had in the lot.

There must be some geographical planning going on with Toyota to load up ABS equipped Tundra's here and you have to order it there.

By the way, not a Tundra problem yes no? A dealership lot/stock issue?

bblytle · March 2001

I'm buying my 1st Toyota truck I'm getting the 4dr Access Cab SR5 V8 2WD
Since the dealer I went to didn't have the truck he searched for it and found one
in the area and went and picked it up.Now he tells me the dealer who had it
didn't replace the brake pads per some factory memo or something on
replacing the pads and shoes the truck came with. So he says they will do it
and turn my rotors at the same time to make sure everything is OK. Anybody
heard of this happening to them?

ratboy3 · March 2001

I would be weary of such thing. The vibration problem has been mentioned here before and I am guessing the dealer felt this vibration on that particular truck.

I wouldnt take that particular truck myself. Problems exist, fortunately for me none so far.

rocker5 · March 2001

..my " check engine " light just came on after 33200 miles.
..tundra is still running fine. Is this likely a service gimmick ?..

duckcaller · March 2001

Whoa! "Check Engine" can be very, very bad - or just the emissions control system - or a defective sensor. Until you figure out which - I would be very careful. Check all the basics - air, fuel, oil filters looking for a stoppage or a line break. Truck may seem to be running fine... but you need to find out why that light is on.

My wife's Dodge Caravan "check engine" came on one time and I found the fuel filler cap was loose. I refilled the tank and snugged the cap tight - and the "check engine" went out.

"Check engine" came on once in my old 4Runner - but it had some kind of diagnostic thing that displayed codes through the radio face. My charcoal air canister thing needed to be replaced. Replaced it and the light went off.

A bad tank of gas - I'm told - can also cause "check engine." Clogs the O2 sensor?

It's not a dealer gimmick, though. Check your engine.

ryanbab · March 2001

Go to your dealer and they can do a diagnostic check on it. It wont cost you anything its still under warranty. They can tell you whats wrong. Something even if it is minor is wrong. Just like duck said some vehicles now have a thing where if the gas cap isnt on tight the light will come on.

toddstock · March 2001

the fuel air mixture can be off and that can cause the light to come on also...

obyone · March 2001

good to have sooooo many "shadetree" mechanics on board...lol!

ratboy3 · March 2001

hehe.. I watch that show.. they moved on to a more sophisticated shop I think..

ratboy3 · March 2001

Truck has about 10,500 miles. I am now a member of the warped rotor club! wahoo! grr..

Noticed the past few days now that on crawling speed. When I slightly apply the brakes to slow down even more, the brakes acts like it catches then let go.

It's in the service dept right now. Took it there before it gets worse. Or maybe the numb nuts there will make it worse. I mentioned that I too have the warped rotors and he gave me the 'what you talking about Willis?' look.

I just smiled and told him to just fix it.

ratboy3 · March 2001

ratboy3 · March 2001

Dropped off the truck at 7 AM. I got it back at noon. Service guy followed whatever he needs to follow on the TSB.

They put in new set of updated drums and rotors, and pads. The drums were warped for sure but the rotors were good. He said they replace all 4 assemblies and ship them back. Dunno where, I didnt ask.

ebbgreatdane · March 2001

In reading some of the previous posts on ABS problems with the Tundra, I was wondering if the screeching tires you heard in addition to the black marks were a result of emergency trailer brakes that kick in during emergency bracking.

I know some trailers have one of two types of systems to increase stopping power. One system is pnuematic and is evenly applied as you step on the brakes.

The other senses when the trailer tongue slams forward and sends an electrical charge to the trailer brakes. To use a bad analogy, like blocking your nards when your 4-year-old nephew has just "learned" karate. Ouch.

Anyway, you may want to check the marks on the road. Are they consistent with your Tundra's tire width or your trailer tires???

John

duckcaller · March 2001

That happened a long time ago... last summer. And I never looked back to see if I left any marks. Like I said, I believe the back tires locked, but the front did not. I maneuvered through the skid. I can't reproduce the rear lockup on wet pavement and I can't say I'm not pleased with how the system works otherwise. So it may be related to the trailering - I don't have trailer brakes.

trdhilux · March 2001

the 2001 tundra access cab 4x2 i recently purchased came with the rear axle shifted .25" to the right side. this is obvious as the right wheel sticks out .50" further than the left. when i took this matter to the dealer(who was very helpful) we measured almost every tundra in the lot, from the frame to a consistant groove in the tire. we found every silver(like mine) colored one to be also offset, while other colors were deadon...NO I AM NOT MAKING THIS UP!!! the service mgr. call toyota, and the reply was "only a quarter inch? a half inch is normal". well, if toyota thinks this is within their tolerance, it sucks. i would not want a vehicle with this kind of defect if i were looking to buy, can u say dogtracking. buyers of tundras arm your self with a tape measure and do NOT accept defective products.

mteubner · March 2001

I have a 1985 Toyota pickup. I used to use cheap gas in it, and the check engine light would come on about once a month. It would stay on about 5 seconds, then go out. Checking the reason for it coming on is a lot simpler that in the newer cars, and it turned out to be the O2 sensor. I replaced the sensor and switched to Texaco 87 octane gas and it hasn't come on since (over 10 years). We now use nothing but Texaco gas in our 3 vehicles. BTW, I don't work for Texaco.

duckcaller · March 2001

Not sure about Texaco products... I fill up at the "mpg" station down the street because it's the cheapest gas I can find. I've heard that tankers will go from station to station pumping 87 octane and that, short of the "boutique" gas with higher octane, it's all the same. It is possible, I've heard, to get just ONE bad tank (and this can come from any gas station) that will screw up your O2 sensor. Water leakage, etc, could be the culprit. I just am not an expert on the gas front. When I lived in Toledo, OH, I used to tank up at the Sunoco station next to the East Toledo refinery - they advertised "refinery fresh" gas. It was more expensive, but I always felt like I was taking good care of my car by tanking up there.

cub4 · March 2001

I used to believe that Texaco gas was the "Star" in my road. I would go out of my way to find a Texaco station. For years I used abslutely nothing but Texaco until I started having problems with my fuel injection, throttle body gunk, and O2 sensor problems. The mechanic said my problems were due to using cheap gas. What nerve! When I sent a letter to Texaco explaining to them my problem they basically said I was SOL and that they couldn't do anything for me. I now use the cheapest gas I can find and add a bottle of STP every once in a while. Never had problems since. Also, it is true that the same tanker will deliver the same gas to different brand gas stations. What I've been told is that each station then adds their own additives to the gas. Bottomline, don't trust them. Buy the cheapest gas you can get and use third party additives like STP once a month or so. That's just my opinion. Also, a big NO NO, never ever fill up when a tanker is dumping gas. It stirs up the sludge in the storage tanks and ends up in your engine. Find another station.

toddstock · March 2001

I have noticed that it states to have the front tires at 27 psi and the back at 35 psi.... What do you all run your Tundra's at... I don't tow as of yet... Getting a boat this summer, but no towing as of now... TIA

ryanbab · March 2001

dont you think it would make sense to have more air in the front tires? There is more weight acting on the front end than the rear. Unless loaded (stuff in the bed) down the front should have more or the same amount as the rear tires

toddstock · March 2001

I have noticed that it states to have the front tires at 27 psi and the back at 35 psi.... What do you all run your Tundra's at... I don't tow as of yet... Getting a boat this summer, but no towing as of now... TIA

tundradude · March 2001

All tires at 35 psi.

duckcaller · April 2001

I put all mine between 35 and 40. No, I haven't noticed any measurable increase in MPG, but nowadays tires are cheaper than gas. I don't do a lot of mileage but I tow on weekends (most weekends). No problems with the higher PSI in terms of handling... in fact, I can't really tell the difference. In theory, I should see faster tire wear. We'll see.

bblytle · April 2001

My 2001 Tundra SR5 ACCESS CAB 4X2 V8 the one the dealer got me and worked on it before I even seen it well the bulletin was on how to grind the rotors and install new pads and shoes replace the adjusting star wheel in the rear and balance the tires and to align it well I still got the shakes in my hands at 35 mph I have just reached 1000 miles and I will take it in when I get some time from work. I checked the tires they are 265/70R16 Bridgestone the pressure that is in them after the dealer did all this is 27-28 psi on all front and rear not what is on the door of F26 R29.
Does anyone tow a boat I have a 20' Ranger ask the dealer about towing in overdrive he said not to I will use big time gas in this V8 if I can't tow in OD.

bamatundra · April 2001

I'm sorry to hear about your problems. I would suggest going to wwww.tundrasolutions.com There are some very knowledgable people there.

You may be able to get some good advice from other Tundra owners there. I would say that if your truck only shakes when not hitting the brakes, that most likely your brakes are fine. I would look into balancing of your tires or alignment of your front end. The Tundra has hub-centric tires which requires special balancing equipment. The alignment is sensitive to the caster adjustment.

As far as towing in overdrive - there is NOTHING in my Tundras owner's manual which advises against towing in overdrive. The manual says that the braking performance is slightly better out of overdrive, so if you are driving down any long - steep hills, it might be best to take it out of overdrive - otherwise I would go for it.

lman333 · April 2001

Hi:

I have a 2001 4X4 TRD, and ever since it was new, I have had a terrible click/clunk noise in the front when I take off,
but only after the truck has been sitting a bit. I go into the
store and out in ten minutes. Take off, and there's a clunk.
I don't notice it any other time. But it happens 95% of the time. I have a 1989 Nissan 4X4 with auto locking hubs. To
get it OUT of 4X4, you put the vehicle in reverse and back
up. When you do this, there is a click/clunk sound when the
hubs disengage. This is exactly what it sounds like on my
Tundra, but 10 times louder! I have had it to the dealer twice
now, and they can't find the problem. They haven't listened
to what I have said at all, and I had to make a special trip down there to duplicate it for them, what is so obvious. I can't believe how boneheaded they are. I know it may be
difficult to find. They are supposed to send out some specialist to take a look. Of course they haven't called yet.
Only have about 2K on the truck now.

Has anybody heard of such a problem??? It could be body
flex or something that is unique. Please help, because the
dealer sure isn't.

Thanks,
lman

jheil · April 2001

Hi Iman,

Just a guess but something similiar has been discussed on www.tundrasolutions.com. Do you have ABS? The ABS on Tundra's do a self test/diagnosis when you move forward. They do this every time you have shut the vehicle down, restart and move. Its normal. Annoying but normal.

I have ABS on mine and at first I was annoyed and then I just accepted it. It does sound odd like there is something wrong and I could see why you might be concerned. If you don't have ABS then I can't offer any help.

Best regards, Joe

lman333 · April 2001

Hi Joe:

Thanks for the advice. I will look into that. The noise is
extremely loud. A noise that loud could only be doing
damage. I can feel it in my feet, and it does sound like
its coming from the wheel well. One thing though, the
dealer did say that it doesn't sound right. So if its the same
problem, that will be interesting to see what they do.

thanks again,
lman

duckcaller · April 2001

I've got 11K on my 2000 Tundra and towed my boat all last summer - mostly in OD. Not a bit of trouble. Your boat is approx 500lbs heavier than mine (I have a Nitro).

My advice is that you take OD off whenever you approach hills (both for going up and down). The biggest irritation with Tundra OD and hills is when you use cruise control. The Tundra speed control is too sensitive - when you drop from 65 to 60 or so it kicks you into second gear and the engine really screams... which sort of defeats the whole purpose of cruise control to begin with. So just flick the OD off as you approach the hill and this doesn't happen.

cub4 · April 2001

My coworker told me that the dealer told him to set all the tires to 35 psi. Something to do with uneven wear. I set mine at 35. Also, I tow a camper trailer (about 4,000 lbs) on OD and only take it off OD when climbing hills or when I want to accelerate. Basically if you feel the tranny hunting up and down its time to turn the OD off. ANd change the tranny flduid often if you tow a lot, every 15K miles or so.

Toyota Tundra Problems

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