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Saab Hatchbacks
marc25
Member Posts: 6
Please advise me as to the bug up Saab Financial's -ss. They are busting my *0(=? though I'm pulling six figures.
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bananas1
I don't know where you live but I suspect that you live in the North East and that some salesman/manager at the particular dealer your dealing with has some kind of bug up their *** against you. I highly doubt Saab Financing, which in our area is Chase, even has the slightest idea what that dealer is up to.
I'd even bet that this particular dealer is just doing this to tweak you and they're lying through there teeth about your credit worthiness as far as Saab USA is concerned. I wouldn't believe the B.S. coming out of their mouths for a second.
I certainly would feel the same way as you had we been treated similarly by our dealer here in L.A. I too would have raised hell but I'd never buy a car from that dealer knowing that I have at least three other dealers in my area I could take my business to. Hell, I'd even drive to to the other end of the state to buy a car from someone else if the same thing had happened to me.
Come on Marc you know that these guys are probably just a bunch of hucksters who are having a ball over your response to this situation. Raise hell but go get your HOT 9-3 somewhere else. I guarantee Saab USA doesn't have a clue as to what these jokers are up to.
I have a couple of questions that, depending on the answers, will help me make a final decision on buying a '99 Saab 9-3. My dealer has located a car that almost fits my request (I wanted leather interior, but he can only find cloth). I'm willing to go for it because the offer was so good. Here's the deal - last week I was told that, beginning Oct.1, Saab was offering an incentive to get the '99s off the lots. My dealer offered me the 3 door 9-3, with sunroof, heated seats and in-dash CD for $24,600! After locating the car for me, he told me my final cost would be $25,500 (this included a $189 registry/insurance/etc. fee). I know this is still a good deal, but when I asked why the price jumped $900, I was first told that it was because of the options (sunroof, heated seats, CD) and then because he had to charge me for going to get the car from the other dealership (which is located in another state). Does this sound legit?
Also, I'm basically in a position where I'm buying the car "sight unseen." When I asked if my purchase would be based on my approval at delivery, I was told that the car was being purchased from the other dealership specifically for me and that I would indeed have to take delivery whether I liked what I saw or not. Again, is this legit? Thanks.
You shouldn't pay anything more because they have to get the car. And they shouldn't be driving it there, either. It should be shipped. Ask them why you are paying the hefty transporation charge, if not to pay for the car to get to their showroom.
Furthermore, you absolutely should be able to walk away from the deal once the car arrives. They're asking you to sign for something you haven't seen? No way.
Good luck.
I suspect this dealer/sales person your talking with is not being completely forthright with you and personally I'd take my business else where if you can. I went to three Saab dealers in my area and found exactly the car I wanted at one dealer even though the two others offered to do the we'll search and bring the car here for you for about $500. Turned out that the exact car I wanted was only 45 minutes away from the other two dealerships.
There is no way in @#*^ I'd sign on the line for a car that I didn't completely check out before hand. They're obviously reluctant to bring in a car at the end of the year run but that is their risk not yours.
I deeply recommend you use the pricing resource guied provided here at the Edmunds to carefully price all options on any car a dealer offers.
I can buy a new golf/GTI, or for about the same
price (or even less) buy a two year old BMW 318ti
or Saab 900. Obvious similarities are the
hatchback and European engineering. Has anyone
driven all three of these and therefore have
real-world driving experience? Thanks.
I must say that Saab USA and my dealer in NJ really took care of me and stood behind the product. I am impressed
Glad to hear you got some saabisfaction.
som tundup saabs
I don't know for sure about the car you were looking at but something just seems way out of whack. Why was a nearly new 99 9-3 traded in at a Subaru dealership? At $28,000+ new that 9-3 saw an incredible killer depreciation scale. I'm sorry but I'm still suspect the motives behind this deal. Personally I don't think that you missed one myself.
The SAAB Sales Manager called today and asked how I like the car. I was very honest and said I wish I had purchased the 9-5 instead because of the 9-3's harsh ride. The sales mgr. offered to switch the wheel/tire combo. for me at no charge. Instead of the 16" wheel and low-profile tire, they would put on the 2000 9-3 coupe's 15" wheels with Michelin MXV tires.
Does anyone have any thoughts about this?
Absent a move to a less corrupt and more efficient jurisdiction, I would say that you could probably keep the 16 alloy rims but ask investigate different tires. You can always store the Dunlops SPs until such time as you relocate or the DC government is cleansed of nepotism, corruption and incompetence.
I pity you for having to pay property taxes in a such jurisdiction. Research some options for those 16" rims. Those low profile tires will make your kidneys bleed if have to traverse broken pavement.
The dealer (Tischer SAAB in Laurel, MD) has been very helpful in trying to make me happy with the 9-3. They switched the wheel tire combo. to 15" wheels with Michelin 60 series tires. It helped although I still wasn't totally satisfied so I asked them if they would take the 9-3 back and lease me a 9-5. Since my car had less than 500 miles on it the sales manager said ok. I drove the 9-5 with the 4 cyl. engine. It definitely rode better but the engine wasn't that great. So, I decided to keep the 9-3. I miss the look of the SE's 16" wheels, but the better ride is worth it. (They took the wheels off a 2000 Base 9-3 Coupe which are actually nice looking 5-spoke alloys.)
Also, I was told that you cannot put 60 series tires on 16" wheels on the 9-3. The wheel/tire size has to be within certain specs.
Now regarding rfellman's comments on the District of Columbia, let me just say we have our problems (like most large urban areas), but the city is coming back. Real estate in DC is skyrocketing, there's new development everywhere, the roads are being rebuilt (although just to be dug up again for fiber-optic cables but that's not the city's fault), and crime is down. What city doesn't have a problem with potholes and streets being dug up for water main breaks and construction?
I never investigated the compatibility of tires and rims between the 9-5 and the 9-3 so this is indeed interesting especially since I own one of each model and have though about switching from alloy rims to steel tires for winter driving.
Who can expound upon OEM and aftermarket tire and rim combos for 9-3s and 9-5s?
I did call a tire store, and indeed the specs. for the 9-3 with 16" wheels called for 50 series tires.
You have to remember that the 9-3 comes with either 15" or 16" wheels depending upon model (base vs. SE). The 9-5 only comes in 16", unless you get the Aero, which I believe has 17" wheels with low profile tires.
Are there any other Saab owners out there who can comment?
Jack rabbit starts, mad dashes and lots of aggressive driving? Come on, come clean, we have all played with the car like that.
My 99 9-3 gets about 19 to 24 MPG in very mixed driving. I have so much fun with the car, I could care less about the mileage. A day without my 9-3 just sucks, unless I am behind the wheel of our 9-5 SE.
I didn't expect this car to be super economical. However 16 miles to the gallon is what I would expect with a big SUV.
Seems like a good deal given the features. Now we're ready to buy.
which is very similar to what I considered
the last time I checked out Saabs. With
the current $3000 incentive to dealers,
I figure I could get a deal.
I've heard reliability has improved in
recent years.
How tight is the 9-3 in terms of developing
rattles?
We've just hit some cold weather in Montreal(-12 to -15 °C - whatever that is in °F) and this appears to be too cold for the bushings on the sway bar - it sound as if the front end is separating from the rest of the body when I go over a bump (and our roads here in Montreal beat anything else in North America for bumps, pot-holes, ice-heaves and cracks)! None in stock at the dealership - everybody appears to need them replaced. The car is 21 months old, has 36,000 km, and now needs replacement front brake rotor discs - another confrontation with SAAB Canada appears to be looming along the lines of "You pay! No, no, I insist, you pay!". Anything else? Oh yes, the air bag activator switch needed replacing at 35,000 km, and there is a distinct whistle through the seals on the front doors at speeds of above 80 km/hour. Not very nice in our weather. The gearbox thunks on changing down when coming to a stop (apparently normal!). Lots of creaks and groans now coming from the body makes me wonder about the number of welds holding the thing together. The automatic audio control (the faster you go the louder it gets - maybe) has never worked, the date routinely reverts to January 1, the drivers seat cushion is collapsing (and I'm not very heavy) oh, it just goes on and on and on. Great motor with minimal turbo lag (it does has a slight tweak on the wastegate - just tell the mechanic it's not accelerating very well), but the rest of the car is just an average Opel/Vaxhall vectra (no offense, they're nice cars but then they're half the price of a SAAB with nearly as good performance and the 9-3 is in fact built on the same platform). I liked the recent comment from the person who keeps going back to the dealer. My dealership sends me Christmas cards and birthday cards from the mechanics thanking me for seeing their offspring through college (I am not joking, and thank goodness SAAB actually pays under warranty), and the receptionist greets me with "It's Mr. Phillips - it must be Monday morning". I always get any amount of coffee, donuts, a workstation to use if its a short visit (i.e., 1-2 hours), use of the telephone, and a personal ride to work and then back to collect the car if it stays with its friends overnight or for the weekend. I must have been to the dealership over 40 times in the last 18 months. I recently drove a 9-5 with the base 2 liter eco engine in England for a week. What a difference (apart from the anemic engine performance)! The car actually steers in a straight line on roads with camber. Now has anybody tried the 9-5 aero yet.....
different cars becuase the one I have right now is
falling apart and its a 1989 Volvo 760 GLE with
only 121,000 miles on it. I'm either going with a
Toyota Solara SLE or a Saab 9-3. I love the way
the Saab looks but I'm concerned with the
reliability of the car. Does anyone know the
ranking of this car on reliability?
Thanks.
The saga of the creaking front suspension bushings at -12°C and below continues. After being assured that the sway bar (i.e. anti-roll bar) bushings would be replaced, the fix was TEFLON TAPE! as a KIT!I didn't have the nerve to inquire any further. Now I have very loud bangs from the front suspension when accelerating (reduced load), braking (increased load) and going over bumps and potholes (plenty of those in Montreal). The mechanics comment: oops! Needless to say it will be back with its friends for the next few days. The BRAKE DISCS were ground to within an inch (0.02" actually) of their lives, thus partially solving the problem of steering vibration at speed. Latest problem is the radio antenna which insists on staying up when the radio is off. Silly.
Condensation in these cars seems to be a problem in cold weather. The windscreen defroster misses a substantial area on the drivers side, and in cold weather (-20°C) I have to alternate between cabin heating and defrosting. I made a comment to this effect at THE DEALERSHIP last week, and got talked into replacing the pollen filter. This thing is about 12 x 6 inches, consists of corregated blue paper and costs $60.00 plus installation (which I didn't pay) and its replacement DOESN'T MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE. I should have taken the vacuum cleaner to it (but then I would have to have found it).
I naturally assume that a car designed and built in Sweden (which is probably as cold as Canada in the winter) should have a decent heater and defosting system (I gave up on the air conditioning after the second condenser didn't condense). They must really wrap up well when they go for a drive over there (I hate to think what they do in the summer). And I am really fed up with the snow that always falls on the seats when the doors are opened. And has anybody else noticed that the length of time it takes for the door mirrors to defrost is just long enough to ensure burnt thighs (and other unmentionables). Now what design genius decided to link the seat warmers with the mirror defrosters? I would really like to talk with him - or the bean counter who decided that one more electrical switch was going to cut into the profit margin. AND ANOTHER THING: The door mirrors appear to have been designed to leave a streak of debris from the screen washers on the door windows AT EXACTLY EYE LEVEL. Now we use lots of salt on our roads when it snows, and a member of the Ontario constabulary informed me on a trip down the 401 last week that unless I washed the car immediately, he was going to ticket me for DANGEROUS DRIVING on the basis that as he couldn't see in I certainly couldn't see out. Quite right too!
I promise to keep everybody informed of all the sodid details as the saga unfolds.
I can offer a tiny bit of assistance. The outside mirror defrosters are activated when you turn on the rear defrost, not the seat warmers.
You're right about the defrosting capability; it could be a lot better. To clear windows other than the windshield, you have to set the directional between front defrost and heater (aimed at feet). The side window defrost function is off when you have the air directed 100% at the front window.
Obviously, you shouldn't have the recirculate button pushed.
Good luck.