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Chevy Silverado Problems

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Comments

  • car3fancar3fan Member Posts: 3
    Hello Everyone,

    I just purchased a 2002 Chevy Silverado LS 1500 Extended Cab - Shortbox. It has the 4.8 Liter engine with the 4 speed Auto Transmission. Can anyone tell me if
    they've had a similar experiece as follows?

    At very low acceleration from a stoplight, the transmission shifting from 1st to 2nd
    produces a small shudder and less than positive gear change. When I accelerate
    more quickly from the stop light, the shift is much smoother and more positive. I
    notice the poor shifting occurs after the truck has warmed up.

    I have only had the truck for 6 days and have 105 miles on it. It didn't seem to do
    this the first few days or on the test drive, just the last few days and only when I've
    driven a few miles from the house.

    Other than that, I really love the truck. I traded in a Toyota Tundra, which was also a
    very good truck, but I like the looks and features of the Chevy. The favorable
    financing that GMAC is offering also helped make it an easy decision.

    Can anyone else share with me if they've had the same transmission issues with
    their truck. I'm sure there is no difference in the 4.8 liter - 4 speed auto transmission
    from 2001 model to my 2002.

    Thanks, Nascar
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    check out this page it lists all tsb's (even though it says 2000 it is the same for follwoing years)


    http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/CKtruck/2000/bulletins.html


    Ryan

  • car3fancar3fan Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Ryan
  • brentvobrentvo Member Posts: 5
    My 2001 Z71 has had the "Check Engine Oil Level" light come on at 3000 and 6000 miles. I thought maybe that was the oil change warning but after talking to the dealership realized it was consuming oil. They decided to change the oil and do an oil consumption test. 900 miles later it's asking for oil again. The service tech said it was probably the PCV valve and couldn't get another part from GM without first documenting the issue. At one point he climbed up onto the engine and pulled the valve and said he saw oil so he was positive that this was the problem. I'm now sitting on 13k miles but they still haven't gotten the new part in yet. Has anyone else experienced this? Are they blowing smoke? So far this is the only problem I've faced with my truck other than the little "chirp" I hear when taking off. (Does anyone know what that is?) Thanks.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    "This problem should show a code"
    That's what I heard today when I set up the appt. for Monday 11/12 for my transmission & steering problem. No, I have no service engine codes showing for a tranny that does not immediately engage when starting from stand still at traffic light(it's happened 3 times in 23000 so time to document), nor do I get a code for the clunk in steering column or high speed shimmy (70-75mph) or the brake pedal pulsating after some frequent stop & go and can't forget the 10-15 second lifter tap at startup either (I don't think this is the infamous "knock" others have complained about). I do trust that all will be remedied in time under warranty.

    Still love this truck but gotta work out the little annoyances.

    Ray T.
  • themailman1themailman1 Member Posts: 95
    I just turned 5000 miles on my Z71 2001 and I get a slight chirp from takeoff. It sounds like a spring or shock. Anyone else?
  • gator36gator36 Member Posts: 294
    Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) #01-04-17-004
    Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke )

    1999-2002 Chevrolet and GMC Extended Cab Short Box Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)

    with 4L60-E (RPO M30) or 4L80-E (RPO MT1) Automatic Transmission and Automatic 4WD (RPO NP8)
    Condition

    Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.
    Cause

    A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the drive shaft slip yoke may cause this condition.
    Correction

    Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel plated slip yoke, P/N 12477702 (1500 Series) or 12477704 (2500 Series).
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    I would bet the problem will go away with some miles. These transmissions are adaptive and change shift firmness with use. I would give the electronics time to learn your driving style. Just for a test, does Tow/Haul eliminate the problem?
  • mlempiremlempire Member Posts: 34
    Go to list you lemons in the truck section if you dare
  • minersminers Member Posts: 1
    my abs motor is running nonstop with truck running and shutoff with key removed .dealer told me to remove fuse and it would be alright to drive till appointment for service.as luck would have it truck just turned 38000 miles.any others have this problem and with what results,downtime and costs.
  • kanton1kanton1 Member Posts: 41
    has anybody had the problems mlempire has had with his truck? reading all of his problems makes me nervous that I just ordered the same truck!

    Kyle
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Had my truck in yesterday for 4 problems, Warped front rotors, transmission surge, steering clunk and engine knock.

    Rotors were resurfaced (I was told if they warp again they'll be replaced next time, that's a no brainer once I get thru the winter their bound to be bad again since they've taken more meat off the rotor they'll heat up that much faster now)

    Upper steering shaft replaced.

    Transmission reprogrammed w/updated program.

    Engine tap (knock) No fix yet but "Chevrolet is in the process of working on a fix"

    3 out of 4 problems resolved isn't bad.

    Ray T.
  • mlempiremlempire Member Posts: 34
    Rayt, they reprogramed my trans 3 0r 4 times each time telling me this is the real fix this time, but i got 5 trouble codes after last try in first 10 minutes of driving after they test drove the sh** out it LOL
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    had mine done about 2 months after i got my truck. Had a hesitation. The program corrected it and never had a problem since
  • seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    for what we paid for the trucks, there should be 0 problems don't you think?
    BTW, i had my trans reprogrammed too, and it made a difference.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    I agree that what we paid for trucks they should have NO problems but this is the real world and these trucks are mechanical, things do go wrong.
    Whether the transmission reprogram fixes the intermitent problem I had only time will tell(I had NO codes for the problem it was giving) it's the "engine tap" (knock) that will be interesting to see what GM comes up with for a "fix", mine sounds like lifters and only lasts for 10-15 seconds during startup when cold and occasionally when warm.
    I really do like this truck and will hopefully keep for 10-12 years like my last Chevy barring any major mechanical failures.

    Ray T.
  • caugustacaugusta Member Posts: 6
    car3fan, get used to it. My 2001 LS ExCab 5.3 auto has done the same since about 150 miles; now 9500 on it. It shudders on acceleration from 1st to second, shifts a little rough from 2nd to 3rd and when I slow down, 3rd to 2nd clanks. Also I sometimes hear a clicking sound from 2nd to 3rd if I am turning at an intersection. I've had it back twice with the usual "we can't find anything wrong" jargon. They did take the rear end cover off and check the backlash at about 0.005" which the spec for is 0.003"-0.007". So i gave up and just drive it. It is annoying though but I don't keep vehicles that long. The thing that annoys me more is how the top of the door panel doesn't seem to snap down into the door skin like they have for 35 years. I guess those little metal clips for $0.03 would drive the sticker price up another $2.00 and tag out at an even $30,550.
  • ndared1ndared1 Member Posts: 21
    rayt2
    Problem: Ticking noise at the valve train/loss of power
    Solution: Tech Bulletin # 01-06-01-018
    Applicable to 2001 Chevy C/K light duty w/8.1L eng

    Problem, push rods bad during manufacture process
    Solution; With engines identified with build numbers T10104 - T10412 (located on ends of valve covers) replace all push rods and any rockers damaged by push rod balls out of place.

    Hope yours ins't this bad and if it is hope this helps with your service dept.
    ndared1 (01 HD with 8.1/ally xtnd cab LB4x4)
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Thanks for the info on pushrods, however I have the 5.3L not the 8.1 (I could only imagine what my gas mileage would be with that)so I don't think it applies in my case. The dealer thinks it's the notorious "knock" syndrome so I'll leave it at that for now since it is now documented at dealership. My profile has the full description of my truck if your interested.

    Ray T.
  • lavettdalavettda Member Posts: 7
    OK, this is getting rediculous!

    I had a 1999 Silverado 5.3L 2x2 ext cab. and put about 48,000 miles on it before I traded it in on a new 2002 Z71, 5.3L ext. cab.

    The 1999 burned about 2/3 to 1 qt oil every 3000 miles. Always told this was normal. O.K. fine.

    Now 2002 has 3,800 miles on it and it is brunig oil at the rate of 1 qt every 1,000 miles. Took it in on 11/15 and dealer says "yeah, that about right" Huh? You gotta be kidding right?

    Does anyone REALLY know what the accepted oil consumption rate should be? I can't accept that in todays engines oil consumption should be a "normal" operating mode.
  • lavettdalavettda Member Posts: 7
    I had the same problem in my 1999 1500. It was the control module and it failed at about 40,000. The dealer replaced it for free!
  • lavettdalavettda Member Posts: 7
    2002 Z71 5.3L
    I have noticed on 3 or 4 occasions that when putting my engine in reverse the tran did not engage. I put it back in park then reverse and it engaged.

    Any others seen this?
  • ndared1ndared1 Member Posts: 21
    lavettda,
    Tech bulletin # 01-06-01-011
    updated from old 76-60-04A
    Oil Consumption "acceptable levels"
    Cutting to the chase, "1 quart every 2000 miles for vehicles under 36000 miles odo reading"
    and vehciles under 8500 pounds GVW
    The service center is asvised to start you on a oil consumption monitoring plan and a lot of other stuff with documentation on driving habits after confirming no external leaks and PVC system problems
    Hope this helps with the service center dudes
    ndared1
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    I believe is in one of the factory guide books that came with truck, so when the dealer tells you this is what has to be documented maybe you can be one step ahead of them and turn over the records as he speaks.
    I use a little less than a quart in 3000 miles on my Y2K 5.3 with 24000 miles so far, but then again as a volunteer firefighter I'm not one to take it easy on the throttle either.
    Good Luck

    Ray T.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Not to be a smart-aleck, but experience tells me to check the obvious first. Make sure the cable to the tranny link is installed correctly. I have seen problems like yours where the cause was nothing more than the shift cable being just a little off where it attaches to the tranny linkage. If you want to check this yourself, block the wheels and/or set the parking brake. Put the shift lever in reverse, then get under the truck and loosen the shift cable at the tranny. Gently move the shift link on the tranny forward and back and see if it "clicks" into reverse. This should be only a small movement, not far enough to go to nuetral or park. If you do note an obvious detent when moving the cable, tighten it back down, put the truck back in park and check all gears for proper operation. Hopefully, this will fix the problem.
    The thing to remember is that these trannys are built by the thousands using very specific assembly techniques. It is later on that the body of the truck is mated with the frame/power train and all of the interconnects are made. Sometimes the shift link on the tranny may get bumped, or the gear selector in the truck may not be in perfect position and the two are just not quite right. It is wise to look for the obvious/easy before going into a major teardown.

    Best example: Guy I knew was on a road trip. V6 engine loses power and is missing badly. He and the other travelers nurse the car back home and do a teardown of the hesds having "diagnosed" burned valves (not very common on low mileage 3.8L GM V6). Well, after many hours of labor and head rework, they put the engine back together and voila! Same miss. Nothing changed. They asked me to take a look at it, and I asked them how long the piece of dirt had been in the left venturi jet of the carb. Took a toothbrush and some carb cleaner, scrubbed out the venturi and the miss went away. Doh!
  • lavettdalavettda Member Posts: 7
    Will check the cable on the tranny.

    From what I read on the 2001 oil consumption forum the amount of 'blue' smoke I see in the morning indicates the PCV issue. I go to pick up my truck this afternoon so I'll post the dealers response on Monday.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    kinda obvious, but do the tranny thing with the engine OFF. I know, I know, but you never know who else is reading this stuff. ;-)

    Jim
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    The two times I have changed my oil I checked the dipstick first. It read full both times. Now my 94 Olds was another matter. One quart every 3k.
  • swilcox1swilcox1 Member Posts: 3
    Hi, this is the first time we've read this message board. I have some info for several of you. Our 2001 5.3L Z71 had a light knock only on cold start since new (now 44,000 miles mostly freeway). Asked dealer to check it out when in for front brake caliper recall. They replaced rod bearings first, and it didn't solve the problem, so they tore down the engine completely and found an undersized piston that rattled until oil pressure came up - then noise would go away. They rehoned cylinders, put in new pistons one size bigger, and put it all back together. That took care of the knocking completely, but now it consumes double the oil that it did before - using about 2 qts. every 6000 miles. I also get 'Service 4WD' lights frequently, seems to be no reason. This truck has always had a light lifter noise and pings even with high octane fuel. We put a lower temp. thermostat in it and that did improve it somewhat. What fuel economy do you all get? We've never gotten better than 15mpg. Hope we helped someone.
  • crosley4crosley4 Member Posts: 295
    My ABS activates in my 2k Silverado 4x2 if I run over a slight bump while braking(the pedal pulses).

    I am not talking a serious bump like railroad tracks, just a small one.

    I've no trouble with my 5.3 motor or the automatic transmission.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    If you have a 500# load in the bed, the brakes will work without a hitch...usually acts sensitive with the bed empty.

    swilcox1

    I'm curious about your statement...

    "They rehoned cylinders, put in new pistons one size bigger, and put it all back together."

    Where did they find these "one size bigger" pistons?
  • swilcox1swilcox1 Member Posts: 3
    I don't know where the pistons came from, but they are actually itemized on the invoice. For some odd reason the block was sent to Baker, CA for the clean-out bore. Baker is a very small desert town about 2.5 hours from here, and as we are in the Las Vegas valley, I don't understand why there were no local subcontractors in a city of 1.5 million that could handle this chore. They had my truck for a whole month, and though I was given a small rental car free of charge, the Chevy is my work truck and we had a tough time keeping jobs stocked (construction) without it.

    Is there a part number for this mysterious PCV valve that seems to solve the oil consumption problem?
  • abottorffabottorff Member Posts: 15
    hi new to the board I have a 00 5.3 I also have the cold start knock 10-30 sec. first start of the day is this the problem knock or just lifters clattering (like my 74 ford with 200k) or wrist pin noise dealer is fighting documenting it simply saying its normal.

    Also has anyone else got a noise seems like from the left side front (you don't really hear it from the pasenger seat) that Sounds like light pinging at about 1400-2000 rpm worst when engine is under load such as uphill its faint sometimes like on flat ground but always there. Also it stops the second you let off the gas.

    Dealer cant hear it of course says its running normal even after I rode with the tech and he did hear it kept it all day and 'unable to duplicate customer concern' this noise just started about 2k miles ago about when cold start knock/tap/tick or whatever started.

    Im at about 35500 miles Gm line no help and Ive been in 4 times at 2 different dealers any help would be great thanks

    To obyone thanks for tsb info (read prev. posts) that got my doors and spring insulators fixed how cand I tell if the 'vin breakpoint' on the steering rack tsb don't know the number applies to my truck
  • seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    you might try this number; 1-800-955-5100.
    it's the BBB, and the results may amaze you. my truck at the same mileage recieved an extended warranty from GM.
  • abottorffabottorff Member Posts: 15
    What kind of problems did you have? I contacted them bbb and chevy offered an 4/60 powertrain and they want me to try a new dealer I'm getting tired of leaving my truck all the time. They (gm)say that the service dept calls my problem intermittent and slight so this is the only offer they're (gm) going to make. If I press this how will it proceed I'm not sure if I can win at arbitration I simply want the 6/100 warranty I feel that is the minimum life you should expect out of any new car ont the road even a hyundai let alone a 27k truck. 2000 silv. 5.3 ls nice truck I'm just tired of getting the "you're an idiot and wasting my time" look from the service writers. dealers singh chev. in riverside and moval. chevy in moreno valley
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Engine - Oil Consumption Guidelines

    File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System

    Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-011

    Date: March, 2001

    INFORMATION

    Subject:
    Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines

    Models:All 1996-2001 Passenger Cars and Gasoline Powered Light Duty Trucks Under 8500 LB GVW


    This bulletin is being revised to add Model Years 2000 and 2001. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 76-60-04A (Section 6 - Engine).

    All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the power stroke, part of this oil layer is consumed in the combustion process. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines.

    Oil Consumption

    The accepted rate of oil consumption for engines used in the vehicles referenced is 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi). This rate only applies to personal use vehicles, under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, with less than 58,000 km (36,000 mi), or 80,450 km (50,000 mi) for Cadillac, driven at legal speeds in an unloaded (for trucks) condition.

    Many factors can affect an owner's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption.

    Gasket and External Leaks

    Inspect the oil pan and engine covers for leakage due to over-tightened, damaged, or out of place gaskets. Inspect oil lines and fittings for signs of leakage.

    Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick)

    Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked.

    Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level

    The vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 5 minutes (20 minutes for the 3.4 L LQ1), after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading to assure the oil has had enough time to drain back into the crankcase. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked.

    Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change

    Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality.

    High Speed or High RPM Driving

    Continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs may increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected.

    Towing or Heavy Usage

    Towing a trailer will increase oil consumption and may cause oil consumption to fall below the normal accepted rate referenced in this bulletin for an unloaded vehicle in a personal use application. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption.

    Crankcase Ventilation System

    Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Incorrect PCV valves, blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use.

    Oil Dilution (Fuel and Water)

    On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, unburned fuel and condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture and fuel, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption.

    Engine Temperature

    If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order.

    Engine Wear

    Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption.

    Measurement of Oil Consumption

    Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi).

    1. Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary.

    2. Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual).

    3. Park the vehicle on a level surface.

    4. Wait at least 5 minutes (20 minutes for the 3.4 L LQ1), after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that most of the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase.

    5. Verify that the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick, and that the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner's Manual.

    6. Record the vehicle mileage, date, and exact oil level on the form included in this bulletin.

    7. Ask the customer to verify the oil level, each time the vehicle is fueled, following steps 1-6 and return the vehicle to the dealership if the oil level is found at or below the add mark, 0.946 liter (1 qt) low. If the oil level remains above the add mark, the customer should continue to operate the vehicle and verify the engine oil level until 3200 km (2000 mi) has accumulated before returning to the dealership for a final evaluation.

    8. If the final evaluation shows that the engine uses more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi), follow the published symptom diagnostics as described in the appropriate Service Manual. If the oil consumption test shows that the engine uses less than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi), explain to the customer that their engine meets the guidelines for oil consumption.

    Oil Economy Test - Data Sheet
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    PCV GM part no. 25179136
    GM list: $5.39
    GMpartsdirect: $2.69 +s/h

    Do you have a part number for these "one sized bigger pistons"? Curios minds want to know....
  • seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    my complaint is against the obvious loose fit in the connecting rods. not that they knock under load, but i'm accustomed to not hearing the lower end rattle as it does. GM's first offer to me was a 5/75K, but i pushed for at least a 5/100K. the main thing that helped in my case was the great relations i have with my service manager at the dealership i buy from, and the fact that i have made 4 purchases within a 2 year period. he backed my claim, and the rest is history. you could push for the 5/100K, or state your feelings about pursuing the buyback option. they don't like that one at all......LOL
  • ndahi12ndahi12 Member Posts: 235
    why those who have experienced problems with their Silverados, traded/sold/lemoned them in and then went out and bought another one. I am not flaming anyone, I just want to understand.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    You obviously have an opinion. I've read what you think of the Chevy/GMC trucks. So what's the point of your post? What is it that you need to understand? Truck owners own trucks, buy trucks, drive trucks. When Toyota makes a full sized truck without inflated specifications for towing and hauling, maybe some of the full sized owners will consider it. Until then, it's pretty obvious that the trucks WORK for what they are needed to do....

    BTW, have you figured what the purpose of the Tundra is? Visit tundrasolutions.com yet?
  • seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    i liked the last post before the one you edited. LOL
  • chevytruck_fanchevytruck_fan Member Posts: 432
    "According to posts, the Tundra onboard computer requires an extra second to complete diagnostics and start the ignition sequence. This is normal and will require owners to keep the key in the start position for a little bit longer than most people are used to. "

    you think its pathetic to call piston slap normal, its normal for toyotas to need three cranks to start lol
  • bamatundrabamatundra Member Posts: 1,583
    "Until then, it's pretty obvious that the trucks WORK for what they are needed to do...."

    How well has your truck worked for the four months it spent in the shop. GEEZ - some people never learn!
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    How can you possibly confuse rod knock with piston slap?
    -- Don
  • mlempiremlempire Member Posts: 34
    Finally ,the truck from he** is going away, see my post at post your lemons here if you dare. I will never own a 8.1 again , on saturday i picked up a 2002 with 6.0 2500hd what a pleasure to drive a truck that likes to stay running
  • smith53smith53 Member Posts: 72
    how many of the trucks sold are really work trucks? i am sure it is a small number unless you consider using your truck to commute to your job as work. work truck is a term used mighty loosely in this topic and work is a four letter word that makes all the blood drain from my wifes face when she hears it.
  • everharteverhart Member Posts: 59
    bamatundra: A toy tundra as a work truck make me laugh. I use my 2001-2500HD 4x4 as a work truck everyday & plowsnow with it too. My neighbor has a toy & put a plow on it & after one yr. it is a piece of junk, 3 different dealers & not one can make it stay to gather. He's now trying to get them to buy the tonka toy back so he can buy a real truck (he's own words). Dealers said he needs to buy a FULL size, humm what? dealers telling you that Tundra not FULL size. The whole problem now with TRUCKS is people want to use them as a second car & weekend truck. They think it should be a car not a TRUCK. He!! we use to hose out the Truck on the inside, now they have all the frills. You now have to order a work truck if you want a TRUCK not a toy truck.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    My Silverado is not a work truck, it is a play truck. I have 52,000 miles on a combination of two Silverado's and 48,000 miles have been carrying a 2000lb load.

    A friend of mine has a Tundra and tried to tell me how his Tundra was better than my Silverado. When he finally figured out that his Tundra couldn't carry the load that I've carried troublefree for 48K, he quieted down. When he discovered I get the same gas mileage loaded that he gets empty, he shut up.

    Alot of noise, but nothing to back up the noise.

    Mike L
  • rembryrembry Member Posts: 1
    First time in town hall and first time posting, so forgive me if this has already been addressed. Has anyone else had problems with the auto transmission in their 2001 Silverado? I had 16K on mine and had to have the whole transmission overhauled. This truck has been treated like a baby, no towing, no fast starts, a true old man's truck.
  • ndahi12ndahi12 Member Posts: 235
    2/3 of those who buy trucks get them for regular day to day transportation.
This discussion has been closed.