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Chevy Silverado Problems
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Comments
I just purchased a 2002 Chevy Silverado LS 1500 Extended Cab - Shortbox. It has the 4.8 Liter engine with the 4 speed Auto Transmission. Can anyone tell me if
they've had a similar experiece as follows?
At very low acceleration from a stoplight, the transmission shifting from 1st to 2nd
produces a small shudder and less than positive gear change. When I accelerate
more quickly from the stop light, the shift is much smoother and more positive. I
notice the poor shifting occurs after the truck has warmed up.
I have only had the truck for 6 days and have 105 miles on it. It didn't seem to do
this the first few days or on the test drive, just the last few days and only when I've
driven a few miles from the house.
Other than that, I really love the truck. I traded in a Toyota Tundra, which was also a
very good truck, but I like the looks and features of the Chevy. The favorable
financing that GMAC is offering also helped make it an easy decision.
Can anyone else share with me if they've had the same transmission issues with
their truck. I'm sure there is no difference in the 4.8 liter - 4 speed auto transmission
from 2001 model to my 2002.
Thanks, Nascar
http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/CKtruck/2000/bulletins.html
Ryan
That's what I heard today when I set up the appt. for Monday 11/12 for my transmission & steering problem. No, I have no service engine codes showing for a tranny that does not immediately engage when starting from stand still at traffic light(it's happened 3 times in 23000 so time to document), nor do I get a code for the clunk in steering column or high speed shimmy (70-75mph) or the brake pedal pulsating after some frequent stop & go and can't forget the 10-15 second lifter tap at startup either (I don't think this is the infamous "knock" others have complained about). I do trust that all will be remedied in time under warranty.
Still love this truck but gotta work out the little annoyances.
Ray T.
Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke )
1999-2002 Chevrolet and GMC Extended Cab Short Box Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)
with 4L60-E (RPO M30) or 4L80-E (RPO MT1) Automatic Transmission and Automatic 4WD (RPO NP8)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.
Cause
A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the drive shaft slip yoke may cause this condition.
Correction
Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel plated slip yoke, P/N 12477702 (1500 Series) or 12477704 (2500 Series).
Kyle
Rotors were resurfaced (I was told if they warp again they'll be replaced next time, that's a no brainer once I get thru the winter their bound to be bad again since they've taken more meat off the rotor they'll heat up that much faster now)
Upper steering shaft replaced.
Transmission reprogrammed w/updated program.
Engine tap (knock) No fix yet but "Chevrolet is in the process of working on a fix"
3 out of 4 problems resolved isn't bad.
Ray T.
BTW, i had my trans reprogrammed too, and it made a difference.
Whether the transmission reprogram fixes the intermitent problem I had only time will tell(I had NO codes for the problem it was giving) it's the "engine tap" (knock) that will be interesting to see what GM comes up with for a "fix", mine sounds like lifters and only lasts for 10-15 seconds during startup when cold and occasionally when warm.
I really do like this truck and will hopefully keep for 10-12 years like my last Chevy barring any major mechanical failures.
Ray T.
Problem: Ticking noise at the valve train/loss of power
Solution: Tech Bulletin # 01-06-01-018
Applicable to 2001 Chevy C/K light duty w/8.1L eng
Problem, push rods bad during manufacture process
Solution; With engines identified with build numbers T10104 - T10412 (located on ends of valve covers) replace all push rods and any rockers damaged by push rod balls out of place.
Hope yours ins't this bad and if it is hope this helps with your service dept.
ndared1 (01 HD with 8.1/ally xtnd cab LB4x4)
Ray T.
I had a 1999 Silverado 5.3L 2x2 ext cab. and put about 48,000 miles on it before I traded it in on a new 2002 Z71, 5.3L ext. cab.
The 1999 burned about 2/3 to 1 qt oil every 3000 miles. Always told this was normal. O.K. fine.
Now 2002 has 3,800 miles on it and it is brunig oil at the rate of 1 qt every 1,000 miles. Took it in on 11/15 and dealer says "yeah, that about right" Huh? You gotta be kidding right?
Does anyone REALLY know what the accepted oil consumption rate should be? I can't accept that in todays engines oil consumption should be a "normal" operating mode.
I have noticed on 3 or 4 occasions that when putting my engine in reverse the tran did not engage. I put it back in park then reverse and it engaged.
Any others seen this?
Tech bulletin # 01-06-01-011
updated from old 76-60-04A
Oil Consumption "acceptable levels"
Cutting to the chase, "1 quart every 2000 miles for vehicles under 36000 miles odo reading"
and vehciles under 8500 pounds GVW
The service center is asvised to start you on a oil consumption monitoring plan and a lot of other stuff with documentation on driving habits after confirming no external leaks and PVC system problems
Hope this helps with the service center dudes
ndared1
I use a little less than a quart in 3000 miles on my Y2K 5.3 with 24000 miles so far, but then again as a volunteer firefighter I'm not one to take it easy on the throttle either.
Good Luck
Ray T.
The thing to remember is that these trannys are built by the thousands using very specific assembly techniques. It is later on that the body of the truck is mated with the frame/power train and all of the interconnects are made. Sometimes the shift link on the tranny may get bumped, or the gear selector in the truck may not be in perfect position and the two are just not quite right. It is wise to look for the obvious/easy before going into a major teardown.
Best example: Guy I knew was on a road trip. V6 engine loses power and is missing badly. He and the other travelers nurse the car back home and do a teardown of the hesds having "diagnosed" burned valves (not very common on low mileage 3.8L GM V6). Well, after many hours of labor and head rework, they put the engine back together and voila! Same miss. Nothing changed. They asked me to take a look at it, and I asked them how long the piece of dirt had been in the left venturi jet of the carb. Took a toothbrush and some carb cleaner, scrubbed out the venturi and the miss went away. Doh!
From what I read on the 2001 oil consumption forum the amount of 'blue' smoke I see in the morning indicates the PCV issue. I go to pick up my truck this afternoon so I'll post the dealers response on Monday.
Jim
I am not talking a serious bump like railroad tracks, just a small one.
I've no trouble with my 5.3 motor or the automatic transmission.
swilcox1
I'm curious about your statement...
"They rehoned cylinders, put in new pistons one size bigger, and put it all back together."
Where did they find these "one size bigger" pistons?
Is there a part number for this mysterious PCV valve that seems to solve the oil consumption problem?
Also has anyone else got a noise seems like from the left side front (you don't really hear it from the pasenger seat) that Sounds like light pinging at about 1400-2000 rpm worst when engine is under load such as uphill its faint sometimes like on flat ground but always there. Also it stops the second you let off the gas.
Dealer cant hear it of course says its running normal even after I rode with the tech and he did hear it kept it all day and 'unable to duplicate customer concern' this noise just started about 2k miles ago about when cold start knock/tap/tick or whatever started.
Im at about 35500 miles Gm line no help and Ive been in 4 times at 2 different dealers any help would be great thanks
To obyone thanks for tsb info (read prev. posts) that got my doors and spring insulators fixed how cand I tell if the 'vin breakpoint' on the steering rack tsb don't know the number applies to my truck
it's the BBB, and the results may amaze you. my truck at the same mileage recieved an extended warranty from GM.
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-011
Date: March, 2001
INFORMATION
Subject:
Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines
Models:All 1996-2001 Passenger Cars and Gasoline Powered Light Duty Trucks Under 8500 LB GVW
This bulletin is being revised to add Model Years 2000 and 2001. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 76-60-04A (Section 6 - Engine).
All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the power stroke, part of this oil layer is consumed in the combustion process. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines.
Oil Consumption
The accepted rate of oil consumption for engines used in the vehicles referenced is 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi). This rate only applies to personal use vehicles, under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, with less than 58,000 km (36,000 mi), or 80,450 km (50,000 mi) for Cadillac, driven at legal speeds in an unloaded (for trucks) condition.
Many factors can affect an owner's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption.
Gasket and External Leaks
Inspect the oil pan and engine covers for leakage due to over-tightened, damaged, or out of place gaskets. Inspect oil lines and fittings for signs of leakage.
Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick)
Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked.
Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level
The vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 5 minutes (20 minutes for the 3.4 L LQ1), after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading to assure the oil has had enough time to drain back into the crankcase. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked.
Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change
Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality.
High Speed or High RPM Driving
Continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs may increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected.
Towing or Heavy Usage
Towing a trailer will increase oil consumption and may cause oil consumption to fall below the normal accepted rate referenced in this bulletin for an unloaded vehicle in a personal use application. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption.
Crankcase Ventilation System
Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Incorrect PCV valves, blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use.
Oil Dilution (Fuel and Water)
On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, unburned fuel and condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture and fuel, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption.
Engine Temperature
If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order.
Engine Wear
Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption.
Measurement of Oil Consumption
Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi).
1. Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary.
2. Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual).
3. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
4. Wait at least 5 minutes (20 minutes for the 3.4 L LQ1), after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that most of the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase.
5. Verify that the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick, and that the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner's Manual.
6. Record the vehicle mileage, date, and exact oil level on the form included in this bulletin.
7. Ask the customer to verify the oil level, each time the vehicle is fueled, following steps 1-6 and return the vehicle to the dealership if the oil level is found at or below the add mark, 0.946 liter (1 qt) low. If the oil level remains above the add mark, the customer should continue to operate the vehicle and verify the engine oil level until 3200 km (2000 mi) has accumulated before returning to the dealership for a final evaluation.
8. If the final evaluation shows that the engine uses more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi), follow the published symptom diagnostics as described in the appropriate Service Manual. If the oil consumption test shows that the engine uses less than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi), explain to the customer that their engine meets the guidelines for oil consumption.
Oil Economy Test - Data Sheet
GM list: $5.39
GMpartsdirect: $2.69 +s/h
Do you have a part number for these "one sized bigger pistons"? Curios minds want to know....
BTW, have you figured what the purpose of the Tundra is? Visit tundrasolutions.com yet?
you think its pathetic to call piston slap normal, its normal for toyotas to need three cranks to start lol
How well has your truck worked for the four months it spent in the shop. GEEZ - some people never learn!
-- Don
A friend of mine has a Tundra and tried to tell me how his Tundra was better than my Silverado. When he finally figured out that his Tundra couldn't carry the load that I've carried troublefree for 48K, he quieted down. When he discovered I get the same gas mileage loaded that he gets empty, he shut up.
Alot of noise, but nothing to back up the noise.
Mike L