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Chevy Silverado Problems

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Comments

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Does this vibration occur at 1100 rpms no matter what gear you're in? Does the whole body shake or just the steering? If at 100 rpms in all gears sounds like a driveshaft needing balancing. However, the dealer has a vibration diagnostic tool called EVA. It will assist them in locating the source of the vibration. I don't know what the problem is with your service department, but I suggest you talk to the service manager regarding the EVA II. If not satisfied, you could always go to another dealer.
  • jalvisjalvis Member Posts: 1
    Countryboy1,

    I was interested to read your posting because I, too, have experienced this problem. I bought a new 2002 Silverado regular cab with V-6 on October 30, 2001. Now have about 6000 miles. Vibration has developed since the purchase and seems to have gotten progressively worse. Vibration can be felt in floorboard and steering wheel. Also causes dashboard to vibrate. Mainly noticeable when around 40 to 45 mph at 1100 rpm---just the kind of driving that occurs in slow freeway traffic.

    Took vehicle in to dealer for its initial checkout and service this past week and complained about the vibration. When I picked it up, the service tech advised that he had consulted with GM and was told that this vibration was "indigenous" to the 6 cylinder and resulted from a "harmonic balance (thinkamajig)" Can't recall the exact name. Informed service advisor that it seemed strange since (a) it did not start until after I had put a few thousand miles on the truck, and (b) it had gotten progressively worse. Service advisor said that he would talk to GM some more and get back with me.

    I smell a confrontation on the way. Since my truck is new and under warranty, I do not intend to let this problem go unsolved.

    Will post more information later and would appreciate input from anyone with similar experience or information.
  • thenesthenes Member Posts: 9
    I bought a new 2001 Silverado extended cab base model with automatic and the V-6 in March 2001. I have the same exact vibration that you described. Two dealers tried several times to fix the problem and never did. They put springs on the exhaust system (not sure exactly what they did here), replaced the catalytic converters, replaced the muffler, reprogramed the computer, replaced the torque converter and flywheel. Still have the vibration. Filed a claim with the better business bureau. Agreed to a free 75,000 mile warranty on the engine and internal components. GM customer service is non-existent. I will never purchase another GM product! There is a technical service bulletin listed on a website that I will post here for you on Monday (it is saved as a favorite on my computer at work) that says it is normal. I also have a rattle upon accelerating. Maybe that's what the TSB addresses? I like the engine's acceleration. It is plenty for me as I am not a speed demon and I only tow a small boat. I also had an oil leak that two trips to two dealers to fix. It was a gasket. If I were you, I would at least insist on the warranty that I got. I plan on keeping this truck forever. Hope it will be relatively trouble free from now on. I wish you success in dealing with GM.

    Your brother in Christ,
    Thenes
  • professor4professor4 Member Posts: 27
    Thanks. All suggestions are appreciated.
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    Gee, I thought I was the only person in the world who had this problem. My 2000 Sierra regular cab with V-6 and A/T had exactly the same problem. The dealer installed a flex joint in front of the muffler - helped a little, but not nearly enough. The dealer worked with it for two more days, including the EVA test which was "inconclusive" and several talks with GM technicians. We all gave up and they made me a good deal on a trade. I think your only options are to live with it or get rid of it.

    By the way, I didn't come out ahead on the trade since the one I bought (a 2000 Sierra ext. cab, 5.3L) has turned out to be the worst vehicle I have ever owned. It is even on its second engine at 20K miles. I tried to trade it in on a new F-150, but found out it is nearly worthless.
  • countryboy1countryboy1 Member Posts: 2
    thanks obyone, the vibration happens when the automatic transmission shifts at slow speeds. Usually at 30 and 40 mph. However if you step on the gas and jump right up to 50 to 55 there is no vibrations. I don't notice the vibration in the steering just at my feet.
  • topsail33topsail33 Member Posts: 19
    Recently bought a '00 1500 ext.cab auto 4WD 4.8L w/ 25k miles

    I notice after I've driven it awhile and shut it off, I hear what sounds like someone taking a ballpeen hammer to metal. Ususally just one time, but it may repeat after a few more minutes. My guess is metal contracting, since it is cooling. My wonderment is if it is the exh. manifolds, pipes, converter -- and if that's "normal"... Just seems a bit loud! Mark
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    it is the exhaust cooling down...most like ly the muffler
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    yep thats normal
  • morin2morin2 Member Posts: 399
    In high school (ok, 30 years ago), we read a poem "Buick", about the ticks and chirps a car makes as it cools down after parking. Anyone remember it? e.e. cummins?
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    I have a 2k Silverado 4x4 Reg cab V-6 that has no vibration at all. However, if under load in overdrive with the torque converter locked, I can hear the driveline rattling at 1100 RPMs. This is most noticeable when towing around 5000 lbs.

    To isolate the problem I would try applying the brake very slight, just enough active the torque converter unlock switch. I bet the vibration will go away even with the engine at 1100 RPMs. If this works it is possible that a software upgrade will fix the problem.
  • lspangler1lspangler1 Member Posts: 68
    I also had a '96 4x4. I sold it with 120,000 miles. I had the following problems

    1. BTSI serviced 5 times under warranty before being disabled permanently. This is the device that stops you from shifting out of park without first pressing the brake. This problem caused number 2.

    2. Intermittant brake light failure.

    3. Rear axle seals once under warranty, once at my cost, $350. Axle seals in 98 and older truck were notoriously bad.

    4. U-joints twice on the rear of the rear shaft and once on the front of the rear shaft.

    5. Shocks at 100,000k these were very worn out but to be expected.

    6. The final straw was leaking headgasket and check engine light whenever in four wheel drive plus the squeaky jiggly interior. Shop quoted $1200 to fix the head gasket.

    Overall I loved the truck, but it was enough to make me buy a non-GM product for the first time in my life.

    My next vehicle, probably a GM truck.
  • cgrehmcgrehm Member Posts: 1
    I've lived with the vibration for 1 1/2 years that has been referenced numerous times in the message boards. I own the 6 cylinder in a 1500 Chevy (2000). I got an extended warranty on the drivetrain after I told the dealer that I would see him every two weeks during the summer if I wasn't satisfied with their "repairs". The district representative was called and I was given an option--extend the warranty or a rebuilt engine from the factory with the reg. warranty with no guarantees the sound would go away. I took the extended warranty (75,000 miles, 5 years). I was told it was the harmonic balancer and is indigenous to the 6 cylinder mated to an automatic transmission and 4 wheel drive. Has anyone else had this explanation?
  • karl100karl100 Member Posts: 1
    Wow, $550.00 to fix a problem that I don't think was my fault. But, to be fair, I submit this problem to you to see if it's only me or if others may have experienced this:

    I bought my Silverado in Oct. of 1999. It is a LS1500 (4800 Series engine) with a trailer package. About 4 months after purchase, I kept hearing a scrapping sound from the back rotors. Thinking it was the pads, I pulled the tires off and inspected them, plenty of meat on the pads. I suspected the emergency brakes only because EM peddle in the cab always went to the floor with no resistance, but, I thought, maybe that's how it was designed. And to answer the question that you are thinking, I did not drive with the emergency brakes on! The idiot light is very pronounced and I always check it before I move, a habit. I finally got tired of this sound and put the truck on jack stands and pulled off the caliper and removed the rotor. To my surprise there is an inner shoe that has it’s own race inside the rotor. The EM brake has a star wheel adjuster that was fine but the shoes were completely worn down to the metal, both sides. They were actually laying in the rotor race without any brackets to support them, thus the scraping sound.

    Is this a totally isolated problem?
  • bugsplatbugsplat Member Posts: 30
    Countryboy/CGREHM- Ditto on the explanation. My daler placed the blame on the "harmonic balancer" It seems to be a regular problem with the V-6. This seems to be such a smooth running engine, except at 1100 rpm. I don't know whether to push for the ext war or a buy back. Does anyone have a clue as to the long term effects of this?
  • jj35jj35 Member Posts: 283
    Sorry if this has been discussed before in this forum, but have not had time yet to read all of the posted messages.

    We own a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 with Z71 package. Today the check 4wd indicator light came on (20,000 miles on the truck). We have yet to engage the 4WD and thought it must be a sensor light, but we then tried to engage it and there is definitely something wrong. We have it at a dealer now -- they are backed up on transmission repairs (not a good sign, I guess) and expect it to take at least a week to even get to in order to repair. Gave us a free rental - so far being treated good. Just wondering if others have experienced this problem.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    "We have yet to engage the 4WD "

    When you get it back after they fix it you may want to engage it every once in awhile (once a month?) just to keep it fresh and make sure its in working order
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    actually feel any vibration but in the 2 yrs. I had it I had three exhaust systems on it. The vibration shook the insides of the muffler loose. The Service Mgr. told me an after market would cure it. That's the only truck I've owned that I never put a Flowmaster on. I was being stubborn! I saw it after I traded it in and the new owner also had a new exhaust system.
  • aguizzettiaguizzetti Member Posts: 1
    I own a new (10K) 2001 1500 LT, auto Silverado. I've noticed a chirp coming from the rear drive train during take-off from dead stop. On a couple of occasions when it was relatively new the engine would start to rev, seconds later the back wheels would catch, causing with a large bang. It felt like the trans was slipping or late to engage. Dealer could not find anything wrong. Maybe unrelated is the noticeable clunk when shifting from Drive to Reverse. Dealer said, that is normal and has to do with total stacked tolerance. Can anyone help identify problem?
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    vibration -- 90 degree V-6; of course it's going to vibrate off idle. Been doing it since long before GM hacked those two cylinders off the 350 and invented the 4.3.
    -- Don
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Go back thru the posts there is a TSB for both those problems that's been posted before on this board by Obyone and others. I had the delayed trans engagement problem which they took care of with the TSB. I don't have it handy so can't give you info.

    Ray T.
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    Do you own one? I have two of these V-6s and think they are one of the most vibration free engines I have ever owned. The most vibration free was my Toyota Supra DOHC I-6. GM has had two versions of these engines, using balancing shafts in the later ones. I don't understand why mine runs perfectly smooth. One thing I have been finding is that all the V-6s that vibrate are in 2wd Silverados. I have a vibration free V-6 4wd Silverado. I don't buy that it is the engine. That engine has been installed in millions of SUVs and vans with no problems!
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    Not any more, but I put 130,000 miles on my old S-10 Blazer and have had occasion to drive the late model version as rentals frequently. Always notice the low speed vib from those things immediately; compared to 60 degree v-6's and 90 degree v-8s.
    -- Don
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    How long does the "Service 4WD" light stay on? If it's just a second or two right after the red battery light goes out after engine startup, then it's just a little glitch that I wouldn't worry about. Quite a few people, myself included, have had the same thing happen every so often. If it stays on, then I would have the vehicle serviced. Just out of curiosity, why have 4WD if you never use it? I have 10.5k miles and I've used mine for most of the last two winters.
  • jj35jj35 Member Posts: 283
    The truck is my husband's so I haven't experienced the problem myself. He thought it was just a problem with the light, but when he called the dealer about it, they said to put it in 4WD and check it out. His words were that it did not sound right at all when he did that. We have a message on the answering machine this evening that they were able to fix whatever it was (still under warranty) so hopefully we will be able to find out tomorrow what the problem was. They were able to fix it quicker than estimated so I am guessing that it wasn't anything too serious (we weren't expecting it back until Monday because they said their transmission people were backed up). Thanks for the help.
  • ak4x4ak4x4 Member Posts: 126
    Here's a common problem. Tis guy is blaming GM on his neglectof normal mantience. 100K on the original shocks??? Dude you should have replaced them at 40K But also look at how any miles you put on your truck in a 4 year period. 35k a year. You need to service the thing. It's not GM's fault that the shocks went at 100K. Up here you're lucky to get 20K out of your shocks. And your leaking headgasket is also due to improper service. This is a 30 dollar part from any autozone and easy to install. It's not GM's fault that you saw the problem with I would guess 50K miles?? Normal service need I say more!! I am not picking on you, just stating a fact.

    he Vibration issues: I hae not encountered this issue yet. Considering I hit snow bank and am aiting for service(Driving the truck) No bumpers and drivers door and 4th door pushed in, and no vibration. Ad I do go 4 wheeling often no problems with the 4x4 system....
  • vpetraglia1vpetraglia1 Member Posts: 4
    Hi, I've been reading the posts about the bump/clunk noise. At first mine was a metal to metal noise along with the bump/clunk noise.
    The dealer REPLACED the slip yoke with a nickel coated one. Metal to metal noise is gone but the bump/clunk noise is still there........along with vibrations.
    I have filed with the BBB.......I'm really tired of someone telling me this is normal for 4-wheel drive.
  • vpetraglia1vpetraglia1 Member Posts: 4
    OBYONE, I wanted to know if there is someway you or I can isolate just the vibration and bump/clunk postings so I can print them without using 50 cartridges of ink.......is this possible.
    It would help alot for my up coming stuff with the BBB. Thanks
    Vickie
    Vjp24@AOL.com
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Only way I can think of is copy and paste to word or another wp program. I went the other route, having a laser printer I printed the whole topic and gave it to the service manager to read. Course back in those days, edmunds had the option of screening the whole topic. The booklet was about 3/4" thick.
  • vpetraglia1vpetraglia1 Member Posts: 4
    Help me compile a list of anyone who has a 2001 Chevy Silver ado Vibration and a bump/clunk noise. I have filed with the BBB and the more ammo I have the better. I cant find to many complaints yet on the 2001's.
    List if you would PLEASE.....the number of times its been in for service, your state and any anything you think might be helpful.
    You can e-mail me also at Vjp24@AOL.com

    Thank-you All
    Vickie
  • themailman1themailman1 Member Posts: 95
    I have a2001 Sierra 5.3 shortbed and have had that problem since about 3,000 miles. I currently have 8,200 and all they did was grease the spline and said it was fixed. After 100 miles, it's back. It only happens from a dead stop and when you give it gas, then you get a clunk and a chirp. It is going in again, let's see if they can fix it again.
  • gator36gator36 Member Posts: 294
    there is a tsb on that issue. The fix is to replace the slip yoke with a new nickel plated one. Currently I am waiting on mine to be replaced. There are few of these new slip yokes in stock and I have been waiting 45+ days. Good Luck
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I have been hearing lately that the nickel plated slip yoke is useless. After a wk or 2 it starts to clunk again. I have heard from many people who had it put in that gm is designing a newer one. Im gonna wait it out. Might as well fix it right
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    problem I had on my '90 454SS. At that time they changed to a different grease to fix it.
  • gator36gator36 Member Posts: 294
    I think that is why the part number has changed at least once and I have been waiting along time for it. Lately it has been really annoying. I might just lube it myself while I wait.

    Walter
  • rich32rich32 Member Posts: 9
    My slip yoke was changed a few weeks ago. The slipping/chirping problem when starting from a stop. But, a clunking noise that may or may not be related to the slip yoke has returned. This noise seems to come from the right side of the truck near the back of the cab or front end of the bed. If anyone has ideas on what this might be I'd appreciate hearing them.
  • ebmacebmac Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 C-1500 silverado with 110,000 miles. I change the oil and grease about every 3,000 miles. My question is that since the mileage is over 100,000 do I need to change the spark plugs and wiring? It is running fine at this time. I notice also the air condition is not so cold. I think it need to be charge before spring get her and it gets to hot. What do you think

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    the plugs and wires need to be changed and the air conditioning may take a little more than recharging.
  • ebmacebmac Member Posts: 2
    Is the plugs and wiring the only thing I need to change? Do you think I could do it myself. What about cost doing it myself vs going to a car repair shop.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    That's hard to say. Changing the plugs and wires are relatively easy. If you've never done it before, now would be a good time to learn. I would do a search on the web on how to do the change cause only you would know if you could or not. What's more of a concern are all the fluids. Have they been changed at recommended intervals such as the trans, rear end, radiatior, and motor?
  • trukntony2trukntony2 Member Posts: 2
    But where is it!? My right side blinker is acting like it has a short in it. With the lights off the right blinker works normal, except when it flashes the dash lights dim. (Short in wireing?) When the lights are turned on the right side blinker (interior) turns on and the blinker doesn't work. The lights outside don't turn on just the dash light light indicator. So, if you think this is my relay, where the heck is it?
    If this is a short I think I'll let someone else deal with it :-). Thx, Tony
    P.S. 88 Chevy Silverado 2500 thx again.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    With the lights off the right blinker works normal, except when it flashes the dash lights dim.?????

    If your lights are off, why are the dash lights on? If on the other hand, you have the parking lights on then it sounds like a bad ground in one of the TS/Park light sockets.

    Have somebody sit in your truck and run the turn signal with the lights off, with the park lights on, with the brake lights on and watch the lights. You should be able to see which socket is giving you trouble. Then take it apart and clean up the ground connection, put a good coat of grease on it and put it back together and test.

    Good luck,

    Mike L
  • trukntony2trukntony2 Member Posts: 2
    Yeah...I see how that can be confusing...
    The Heater/AC has a digital display.
    so when the lights are off the clock/radio and Heater/AC displays are on. But I will clean those sockets up and see how it works. THANKS! Tony
  • bmoehrlebmoehrle Member Posts: 6
    Have you towed anything lately? I had a similar problem in my '94 chevy silverado 2500. I replaced the fuse w/ a bigger one and everything worked just fine after that. Not another problem since.

    Ben
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    The older model new design trucks were known to short out the tailights because of their design. The circuit board the lights mount in tends to corrode and short, this may be the root cause of problem. Pull the tailight out of fender and pull it apart to check for corrosion if so replace the socket section that holds all 3 lamps.
    This was my experience with my 88 C1500 Ext. Cab till I got my 2000 Silverado 2500.

    Ray T
  • mttruckmttruck Member Posts: 1
    Hello All,

    This is my first time at the website, I was referred here since I'm looking for help. The dashboard in our 1998 Silverado caught on fire last weekend. It has ~60,000 miles (mostly highway). We have always had it serviced professionally, we have never altered anything in the truck and we don't smoke. The truck had been sitting for about 30 minutes, shut off. My husband got in, started it, and started to back up when the lights started flashing and he heard a popping sound then smoke started rolling out of the dash. GM said that since there are 60,000 miles on it, and they don't know the history of the truck, they will not do anything about it. I asked if they were at least going to look at it to see what caused it and they said NO! I have posted this with NHTSA, BBB, and Consumer Protection. Everyone tells me that since it is out of the original warranty and the extended warranty we purchased at the tune of $1500 won't cover fire - we are SOL. Everyone seems to be missing the point. It is a safety problem and I think GM should be responsible. This isn't normal wear and tear. I guess GM is saying that once you have driven your GM over 36000 miles - don't be surprised if it catches on fire!
    We own several Chevrolet products, we recently purchased a 2001 S-10. I can't believe that GM won't stand behind their product. Any advice - we can't even start the truck at this point.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Unfortunately, what all of the consumer protection groups have told you is true. Your truck is out of warranty and GM is under no legal obligation to fix your truck. There are countless ways that could have started the electrical fire in your truck. Rubbing wires, bad connection, bad ground...actually anything that could cause an arc. I guess the theory is that if it hadn't caught fire in the 36k miles of warranty and your extended warranty, it would be a consumer issue.

    I've worked on rewiring vehicles that have had this happen. Unfortunate as it is, the only recourse that the owners had was to pay to have it repaired. Ever look into filing an insurance claim?
  • morin2morin2 Member Posts: 399
    I'd be upset also if my dash burst into flames, but wouldn't expect GM to make the slightest attempt to satisfy me. We had a tranny replaced at 40K on a 95 Chevy G20 (3/4 ton) Gladiator conversion van - had always been serviced (tranny twice) at dealer during the warranty period and never used for towing or hard use. Tranny failed 4 months and 4K out of warranty and the Chevy service manager actually told me that if I'd wanted a reliable vehicle, I should have bought a Toyota. I told him & the owner I'd never shop their dealership again.

    On the other hand, a boat dealer and Mercury Marine once replaced a lower unit on a Mercury outboard that was a few months out of warranty. Guess what - I bought my next boat/motor/trailer from them. Reward the good guys.
  • rcam2rcam2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 2WD Silverado with traction control. After driving a distance in the rain (problem hasn't occurred in the little snow we've had ) the "traction control off" lamp turns on and won't reset until the truck ignition is shut down. The dealer replaced the traction control module but this did not correct the problem.
    Anyone out there experience this problem with their truck?
  • gottabigfishgottabigfish Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 LS ext.cab SB with the 5.3. I noticed a slight ticking/tapping noise at idel at about 500 miles. Contacted my dealership and they stated "wait 2000mi till it breaks in". Upon their inspection at 2500mi they changed the oil and stated "the oil has broken down and there is a service bulletin out that says the 5.3's are all like this". Of course the mechanic could not print it for me because the computer was down (go figure).

    I have 5500 miles on her now and the problem is worse than ever! Its coming from the drivers side of the engine and sounds almost like a metal rattle or tapping sound. It goes away when I accelerate but comes back as I ease off the gas or am at idle.

    I have tried different gas, higher octane, oil changes, all to no avail.

    I love the truck, but the noise makes me sick. Has anyone else heard of this problem or know any remedies? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
    Thanks
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