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Chevy Silverado Problems
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Comments
good luck.
http://si2kgmd:gmd0702d@service.gm.com/servlets/BlobShtml?ShtmlFile=754901&evc=num Srch&version=html"
cut and paste the URL
This brings me to another point. I've had a problem since I bought the truck. Well, maybe problem is too strong of a word.....it's more of a nuisance than a problem. I've noticed that when I initially start up my Sliverado it has a rough idle for about 5 minutes afterwards. It goes away after the truck warms up but you can notice it while the truck is still warming up. I've taken it in before and they haven't found a problem. It seems that if the computer doesn't recognize that something is wrong, they don't look for anything. It hasn't been something that has affected the way the truck runs but I am concerned that, with age, it will only get worse and could become a problem. As a result of my throttle body problem, I had the injector cleaning done and the problem is still there. I looked through the TSBs and wasn't able to find one related to this problem.
Has anyone experienced the rough idle that I am talking about?
Barry
Barry
I haven't seen anything on the sagging but on the subject of your bench seat...when I test drove I kinda preferred the the captains chairs. The bench seat didn't sit well with my back and I kept feeling like I had to push myself up once in a while.
I must say that I wish the captains chairs were positioned a little bit lower. I'm 6' tall and must imagine that a lot of folks are my height as well and feel the same. It feels like my head is in the headliner and I'm several inches above the window base. But boy did that 5.3, 3.73 move like cat on water.
I don't know if this is the correct one or not - looks like you need to spend $20 to find out.
Anybody know a free way to get at this TSB information?
BTW - I had a slightly rough idle after the injectors were flushed and one replaced, so I dumped a bottle of Techron in the tank for about the next 3 tanks of gas. Actually, I only filled up about 1/4 tanks so the concentration of the Techron would be greater. (If you read the back of the bottle, it recommends "up to 12 gallons" of gas when you put the cleaner in the tank.) I would go after the injector cleaner aggressively for a while and see what happens - it worked for me:)
Rough Idle After Start, And/Or A Service Engine Soon (SES) Light (Unstick And Clean Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI) Poppet Valves)
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G, P Models
1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3 L, 5.0 L or 5.7 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R -- RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31)
This bulletin is being revised to add new information to the Correction section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 87-65-07A (Section 06 -- Engine).
Condition
Some customers may comment on rough idle after start-up, especially if the vehicle has sat overnight. These symptoms may be intermittent. The Service Engine Soon (SES) light may also be illuminated. Current misfire, or history misfire codes may be detected with the Tech 2 scan tool.
Cause
A deposit build-up on the CSFI poppet valve ball and/or seat may cause the poppet ball to stick open or closed. In either case, the specific cylinder will be mis-fueled, resulting in a cylinder mis-fire condition.
Correction
A new injector unsticking and cleaning process has proven to be effective in restoring poppet valves to an "as new" condition. Injector replacement should NOT be considered as a correction for this customer concern.
The first step in this process is to make sure that the poppets are operational. The cleaning procedure will be ineffective on a poppet nozzle that is stuck closed. The J 41413 Evap Pressure/Purge Station, in conjunction with the J 44466-10 pressure regulator/hose assembly, provide the required high pressure (150 psi) source to perform the unsticking procedure. The J 39021 fuel injector tester and accessories provide the means to "energize" the injector. Some later model-year vehicles may utilize the Tech 2 to "energize" the injectors.
The second step of this process is to run the engine on a solution of 5% Top Engine Cleaner and 95% gasoline. This will effectively clean any deposits from the ball and seats of the poppets. It is very important that the engine fuel system is separated from the vehicle fuel system. Top Engine Cleaner may have detrimental effects on the fuel pump.
S/T and C/K Truck
Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve vapor pressure in the fuel tank.
Remove the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) clean air tube from the air inlet tube and set aside.
Remove the bonnet and inlet tube from the throttle body.
Remove the brake booster vacuum hose and connector from the intake manifold.
Remove the electrical connector from the CSFI fuel metering body.
Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, (7) from the distributor cap.
Remove the fuel line bolt (4) at the rear of the intake manifold.
Relieve the fuel system pressure at the service fitting on the fuel line. Use a shop towel to contain any fuel that may exit the service fitting.
Remove the nuts (1) and clamp (2) from the fuel pipe.
Remove the fuel pipes from the metering body. Be careful not to disturb the O-rings, washer, and spacer in the metering body.
Install the J 44466-12 (2) and the J 44466-13 (1) to the metering body and tighten. Make sure that the fuel pipe O-rings, washer, and spacers are present and in their proper position.
Install the J 44466-11 (4), clamp (2), and J 44466-13 (1) to the fuel pipe and tighten.
Obtain the J 41413, close the valve (2) on the tank, and remove the regulator assembly.
Install the J 44466-10 (5) to the J 41413 tank (3). The J 44466-10 regulator is preset to 150 psi.
Connect the J 44466-10 hose (1) to the J 44466-12 (3).
Install the J 39021 Injector/Coil Balance Tester, the J 39021-210 Injector Tester Adapter Box, and J 39021-301 V6 Fuel Injector Test Adapter (1) or J 39021-302 V8 Fuel Injector Test Adapter to the metering body electrical connector.
Adjust the amperage selector switch on J 39021 to 0.5 amps.
Open the valve (2) on the tank (3).
Open the valve (4) on the J 44466-10 to pressurize the fuel system. The minimum pressure required on the gauge (6) is 150 psi. If 150 psi is not obtained, the tank (3) must be refilled prior to performing this procedure.
Close the valve (4) on the J 44466-10.
Energize one injector using the J 39021. Observe a pressure drop on the gauge (6) and verify the injector/poppet valve operation. An injector/poppet that is "stuck" and not operational will have no pressure drop on the gauge. If an injector remains "stuck", repeat the procedure multiple times (as required) until the injector is operational.
Repeat steps 19, 20 and 21 for each individual injector to verify that all injector/poppet valve assemblies are "unstuck" and functional.
Shut off pressure valve (2) on the tank (3) of the J 41413.
Bleed off the pressure at the J 44466-10.
Disconnect and remove the J 44466-10 (5) from the J 44466-12, and the J 41413.
Remove the J 39021-301 or J 39021-302, J 39021-210, and J 39021 from the metering body.
Install the vehicle electrical connector to the metering body.
Install the brake booster vacuum hose and connector to the intake manifold.
Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5, (7) to the distributor cap.
Install the air inlet bonnet to the throttle body, tighten the wing-nut.
Install the PCV fresh air tube to the air inlet tube.
Obtain J 35800-A (2). Make sure the valve at the bottom of the canister (3) is closed.
Remove the canister top and add 24 ml (0.8 fl.oz.) Top Engine Cleaner, P/N 1050002 (Canada P/N 992872), to the canister.
Fill the remainder of the canister with regular unleaded gasoline and install the canister top.
Suspend J 35800-A from a convenient underhood location.
Connect the hose from J 35800-A to the service port on the J 44466-12.
Open the valve (3) at the bottom of J 35800-A.
Connect a "shop air" source to the fitting at the top of J 35800-A and adjust the regulator (1) to 75 psi.
Start the vehicle. It may be necessary to re-adjust the J 35800-A pressure regulator to maintain 75 psi.
Let the vehicle run at idle until the canister is empty and the vehicle stalls.
Remove the shop air supply from J 35800-A.
Depressurize the J 35800-A.
Disconnect the J 35800-A hose from the J 44466-12.
Remove the PCV clean air tube from the air inlet tube and set aside.
Remove the bonnet from the throttle body, and set aside.
Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, (7) from the distributor cap.
Remove the brake booster vacuum hose and connector from the intake manifold.
Bleed the residual pressure from the J 44466-12.
Remove J 44466-13 (1) and J 44466-12 (2) from the metering body.
Remove J 44466-13 (1), clamp (2), and J 44466-11 (4), from the fuel pipe (3).
Install the fuel pipe (3) to the metering body. Make sure that all of the O-rings (6 and 8), washers (7), and spacers (5) are present and in their proper position.
Install the clamp (2) and nuts (1). Tighten
Tighte
Another thing to consider: if you only get a new motor with 36k warranty, you're better off with 100k Major Guard coverage. You get extra warranty miles that way. If the motor (or anything else) goes at 99k, you're covered....
Good luck
John.
Barry
pat
pat
post it here or on your site
thanks
ryan says there is a TSB but i checked on alldata.com and i did not see one.
thanks in advance pat
3rd and 4th Door Hard to Close When Cold (Replace Latches)
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the 3rd or 4th door is hard to close when cold.
Cause
There was a change to an internal bumper in the latch and the removal of the primary door seal internal plug.
Correction
Verify proper alignment between the upper and lower striker before proceeding to the next step.
Replace the upper and lower latch assemblies using the part numbers listed below. Refer to the Doors sub-section of the Service Manual.
Remove the primary door seal internal plug across from the lower latch assembly.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
15057687 Latch Asm - LH Upper
15057688 Latch Asm - RH Upper
15063698 Latch Asm - Lower
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
B4650 Latch and/or Wedge, Rear Door -Replace (Right Door-Upper and Lower) 0.6 hr
B4652 Latch and/or Wedge, Rear Door -Replace (Left Door-Upper and Lower) 0.6 hr
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
I dont think alldata.com has updated their database lately. That tsb came out i think january/february.
http://si2kgmd:gmd0702d@service.gm.com/si2000/home.html
for complete list
for example enter
http://si2kgmd:gmd0702d@service.gm.com/servlets/Search
type " hard to close" and you will find the service bulletins as specified by obyone
pat
dean, thanks for the tsb
ryan, i believed you, just couldn't find it
pat
Notice that only the first part of the address is highlighted, therefore something is broken.
Once you get to the site, make you a bookmark.
Hope this helps
Fred
Barry
pat
http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
PS
I did tell the rep, after he offered a 60k that only a 100k bumper to bumper would make me happy. I will hear at the end of this week about the 100k.
Steve
Sacramento
Mike L
Just an FYI to all of you......the Better Business Bureau works great!
I was starting to feel left out, seems as though everyone who posts on these boards has had some sort of problem but me. Guess I get to find out what my dealer is like when it comes to service tomorrow.
Thanks
drgene78
Can the oil filter be changed without draining the pan? I'm getting knock everytime I startup now and I think its the fram filter causing it. Or does the cold start knock begin after about 18000 miles are on the truck ?
Tom
As with any other oil change, fill the filter before installation. It reduces the amount of time the engine runs before oil pressure comes up.
Mike L
JOhn
I own a 2000 Silverado 1500 Z71 ext cab. When I put it in gear and take off in reverse I hear a low pop or clunk in the rear of the truck after about 2 or 3 seconds of movement. Likewise, if I put it in reverse and don't go quite as far, then put it in drive, I hear the same noise after 1 or 2 seconds of going forward. It only makes the sound once when I initially start the truck up and take off. It doesn't happen at red lights or anything.
Is this normal? Does anyone else hear this? I just had the "Driveline clunk" TSB service work done and it still makes the noise. It doesn't necessarily sound harmful.
I took it in today for the riser (spelling?) replacement, but there was no change.
Any suggestions....
John