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Jeep Wrangler

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Comments

  • texasjeeptexasjeep Member Posts: 270
    There are tons of places to get rocker guards. Two main types are frame mounted or body mounted. I prefer body mounted for better clearance but you will be drilling into the body.
    Example of body mounted guards
    Example of no drill frame mounted guards
    Second example of no drill frame mounted guards
    review of second example rocker guards
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    It's really a personal preference - we have a '98 Sport manual and an '04 Unlimited auto. For my commute it doesn't make much difference because it's all freeway, and slow-n-go is easy in 2nd gear. I do like the manual when I start up the steep parts of the I-5 Grapevine (driven daily), but I just turn overdrive off with the auto and it works just as well.

    Last week I made several trips into downtown L.A. with the manual. By the second day of driving in stop and go traffic, with lots of traffic lights, I was VERY glad that I don't have to do that very often - if your commute has lots of traffic lights or stop and go traffic, I'd think hard about getting a manual. Also, I've been having back problems and the auto is much more back-friendly. So I think the Sport is probably my last manual - I'll stick to autos.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Thanks for all the info.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    What he said.

    I have body mounted rockers from Toys by Troy and I've come down on them HARD a few times, including this past weekend. Frame mounted ones can be nice, but if you go with a body lift down the road, it may look kinda goofy. Also, at some point, part of the rockers will hang down below the frame and provide a catch point if you drag over a tree root, rock, whatever.

    Body mounted ones can be had with internal supports (A to Z Fabrications comes to mind, as does Shrockworks). My TbT's cover quite a bit and I'm VERY happy with them. They have a tube on the outside to provide a pivot point against rocks, protect the sides against gully walls (Turkey Bay has a few of those) and act as a step for my wife.

    Image hosting by Photobucket

    Image hosting by Photobucket

    This model is similar to those available from a number of sources. Places like Q-tec are okay, but you can get em cheaper usually directly from the manufacturer. A to Z, Toys by Troy, Shrockworks, Rokmen, Kilby, AEV, all put out variations on these things.

    Jeeperman does make some frame mounted versions, but I like the black armor up the side of the tub as well...

    -Paul
  • bobcat82bobcat82 Member Posts: 13
    Paul,

    And the photos show a might fine looking rig, too!

    Art...
  • koolbreeze2koolbreeze2 Member Posts: 252
    Very nice Jeep. I like the black headlight bezels.They add a unique touch to the overall look. I have a red Jeep (Rosie) and I am considering changing the yellow signal light lenses to clear lenses. I have all red and black but silver was the other color I was considering. The black and silver is very sharp. I'm curious. How did you come up with Elliemae for a name? Go Easy, John
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    The heater control on my YJ does not light up when I turn on the headlights. I looked in the owner's manual for the bulb numbers, and found them. However, when I took the panel off, I could not see where the bulbs would go, and didn't want to start yanking on any wires. Any help would be appreciated.

    -John
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Thanks for the easy links to the good information on rocker guards. I was just starting to think it's time I remove my factory steps and get rocker guards, too. I've read Tom write that those factory steps often are damaged offroad and he recommends they be removed for any real offroading. I'm still debating on frame vs. body mounted. I like the extra clearance offered by the body mounted but I guess the idea of drilling into my new Jeep makes me pause even though I know so many of you do it and I love how they look in the end.

    Just curious how folks feel about the Jeep Mopar rock rails in the Jeep Accessories Catalog...I assume for the money you get better protection and quality from other manufacturers?
  • yjbobyjbob Member Posts: 56
    The factory service manual (FSM) for my 1995 YJ is very brief.
    Under "Heater Control Replacement" (section 24-32) it says:
    1. "Remove instrument cluster bezel attaching screws. (6 screws attach the bezel to the face of the instrument cluster.)
    2. Remove instrument cluster bezel.
    3. Remove screws attaching heater control panel to instrument panel.
    4. Slide control panel outward..." (toward you, I guess.)

    At this point, you should have the back of the heater control panel exposed, and the wire to the heater control light should be apparent. Presumably you can access the light bulb itself from the back of the heater control.

    Good luck.

    Bob
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I assume for the money you get better protection and quality from other manufacturers?

    Generally, that would not be a correct assumption. Most of the time DC will source this type of product from a reputable aftermarket supplier and just stick a Mopar label on. Alternately, a slight variation may be made on the basic original design. Comparing pictures in the various catalogs can provide a mild form of entertainment. ;)
  • keatskeats Member Posts: 412
    I have the Jeeperman Rock Skidz and love them. They are very, very beefy, and provide a very functional step for my wife and folks getting in the back. The Jeeperman's were discussed a few weeks ago. Here's a link: Jeeperman Discussion
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    Thanks Bob
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Thanks Keats - Those do look awesome and I think I'll go with those since the side-steps do make life easier getting my kids in the back (or me when I need to partially climb in the back to buckle-up my 4-year old). I think I may add DC's Mopar Jeep OEM Rubicon Rocker Guards (without the rub bar). I like the look of those diamond plates covering the lower part of the body's edge. The Jeeperman Rock Skidz look like they'll install OK underneath those based on their photos. Now, I just need to keep eBay selling un-used items from around the house to raise the money to buy my "toys". :)
  • keatskeats Member Posts: 412
    Yep, they install perfectly with the Rubi gaurds, but of course you do have to drill holes to use them. They do look great, which is one reason I went with the Jeeperman's. They have a diamond plate matching step.
  • jeff62301jeff62301 Member Posts: 310
    http://www.quadratec.com/products/11046_99.htm

    these are the mirrors I have, I like the fact that they are big, its a trade off for the wind they catch and move while on the highway.

    jts
  • kcjeepkcjeep Member Posts: 4
    This may be a stupid question, but something doesn't make sense to me. I am looking into buying a soft top boot from mopar, because I like the way it can store the windows. On their website they have one available for the SWB for 230.00, or for both SWB and LWB for 169.00. I have a SWB by the way. Why is the latter cheaper? Will it fit my SWB as well? Basically, which one should I buy?

    Any input appreciated. Thanks. Also, if there is a better alternative, please bring it to my attention.
  • keatskeats Member Posts: 412
    I don't think the boot is a popular option because it's hard to put on and take off. If you're looking for a way to take the windows winth you then you want the Cloverpatch Window Roll
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    I have the cloverleaf window roll also, and it works quite well. Make sure your windows are clean when you roll them up, then the case can sit on top of the rest of the top.
  • texasjeeptexasjeep Member Posts: 270
    Hey Paul,

    Are you running Truxs tires? What size? Did you have any problems getting them balanced?
    How do you like them off-road and on?

    Thanks.
  • slinkslink Member Posts: 1
    I have just purchased my first Jeep and I would like to get some more power out of the engine. I have been contemplating an air intake system, throttle body injector spacer and performance chip. I am also considering 2.5 inch exhaust with a maybe a flow master muffler. My questions, what are the best brands for greatest HP increase and do I really need to upgrade to performance headers? Just how much HP increase would there be between using my stock header with 2.5 inch performance exhaust compared to performance header and 2.5 inch exhaust? I just do not wish to go through all the hassle and expense of changing out my header it looks to be a big job. The stock header looks to me to be about the sane diameters and has smooth bends. Any advice from all of you jeep veterans would be appreciated.

    Thanks, Scott
  • scampscamp Member Posts: 4
    can someone tell me how to remove the soft top on a 95? i just bought it and got no manual or instructions. I had an 81 but this one seems to connect differently. any help would be greatly appreciated. It's about time to remove it for the warm weather and I am getting antsy. Thanks
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    This hasn't come up for a while so............first, the 4.0 isn't underpowered by any means, but it has limited capacity for performance upgrades. It turns slowly and has good breathing in standard configuration. The standard air filter and intake draw air from a cold location and present no restriction to intake volume, except possibly at the very top of the rpm range. The exhaust is well designed and provides the back pressure required to match the torque curve.

    At best, you can move the horspower curve to provide maybe another 20 bhp at the very top end, but you'll lose it lower down, along with that nice torque that kicks in at just over idle.

    If you really want to add noticable power, and have it available throughout the whole rev range, then fit a supercharger, preferably the vane rather than centrifugal type.

    Finally, whichever route you choose, you open yourself up to possible warranty problems if you have an engine or powertrain problem down the line.
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    No kidding. The 4.0L has more than enough power for regular driving in stock form, and you will pretty much negate your warranty by messing with it. Are you planning on racing it?!?
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    Been many a year since I had my '95, but from what I remember:

    -unzip/remove the side windows

    --pop the rear bar out of the receivers on either side of the tailgate, and unzip & roll up the back window and fasten with the straps

    -pop the tongue out of the channel above the windshield. there are two tabs that slide over "buttons" on each side to lock the door frames in place, so slide those back and release.

    --from here it should be pretty obvious, just slide the top back behind the rear seat. YOu may have to undo some of the snaps on the door frames to get it to fold.

    --half doors are obvious, undo the snap and pop the tongue out of the groove, then lift up
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Yep, those are TrXuX 33x12.5x15's on my Canyon wheels (I run SpiderTrax spacers behind the wheels).

    Balancing? Up to about 55 they are smooth. I have a vibe on the highway that I need to have addressed, but wanted to wash my Jeep before taking it to a place to balance (too much mud on the wheels! :)) Once I have them balanced, they will be golden.

    On road, they are fine (except the vibes over 55). Offroad, they are incredible. I only got stuck once on my first trip with them as I got high centered a bit and just not enough traction to get me unlodged from a rock hugging just in front of my rear bumper. :) Nice scratches tho. :)

    I was in some mud - got through no problems. Climbing - great grip. No complaints at all here.

    Balancing is probably the only issue you have to worry about. Make sure they balance it up to about 70-75. With my gearing and engine, if I ever made it to 80, I'd be surprised (2.5L and 4.88 gearing). I did get to 75 tho.

    Here's the Jeep after done wheeling and gassing up to go home...

    Image hosting by Photobucket
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Very nice and simple too...which IS the important thing.
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    Among other things, I gather they didn't air down their tires for their little photo-op. Someone's new SUV (think it was a VW Toureg) meets the Atlantic Ocean this weekend here at Carolina Beach. Several nylon runners were snapped until a guy with chains managed to pull it out before it was completely submerged. Still probably totaled, salt water got into the engine bay, interior, etc.
    image
    image
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I thought only Jeep Commanders could do that. ;)

    Seriously - wet sand + heavy vehicle = bad times

    If water got into the bay, it may be okay, but I bet the electrical is goofy from here on out. The engine itself may be fine, as long as it wasn't running and no water got into the engine.

    -Paul
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    I would say LOL but I'm just too depressed for this guy. My early Jeeping was done on river beds, and even shallow water over sand makes for a really bad day.

    I sit in Touraregs at the auto shows, and would love to have one as my "nice" sedan vehicle. They are REALLY pricey. I can't imagine taking one that close to the ocean...

    You should send that in to 4wd or Jp for their worst stucks section.
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    Ahhhh... Brings back memories!!!

    While in school we were in the Virginia Beach area attending a concrete canoe race hosted by Old Dominion University at Mt. Trashmore Park, we decided to camp at one of the waterfront campgrounds. One of our campers, after imbibing some liquid bravery decides to take out his 4wd Ford Ranger for a drive with a buddy. Who knows how much later they both come walking back, jeans wet to the belt and very, very cold. I think it was March. Long story short, Nimrod got his truck stuck on the beach and the tide was coming in. We didn't have anything to pull him out with so he had already called a tow truck. Tow truck number one wasn't capable of pulling him out so they had to call tow truck number two. (It appeared to be a carefully orchestrated procedure, sending the whimpy tow truck first.) Luckily water did not get into the cab of the truck before it was yanked out. Good thing he got out or we wouldn't have had anything to tow the concrete canoe home.

    Oh well, made for some good stories and chuckles on the way home.
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    Mac (or anyone),
    I've been really considering the electric Wrangler fan conversion (takes off the clutch fan and replaces it with an electric and thermostatic on/off switch). Mostly, I was going to do it for the mileage gain it supposedly gets. What do you think of this? Supposed to really reduce rotating parasitic drag (according to the manufacturer). Quadratec carries them.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I'm not really a fan of those (hmmm.......shouldn't that be Tom's line?). :blush:

    The standard fan only comes into play when the cooling system temperature rises above a certain point, usually at a slow forward speed or when under a heavy load. When it does kick in, it has the potential to cool things down very quickly as the blades are at a relatively coarse pitch, and they have all the power of a gas engine to drive them.

    An electric fan has a much shallower pitch due to the high current draw of an appropriately sized 12v electric motor. To even come close to matching the performance of the factory unit, an electric fan will have to run much longer and it will cut in earlier. Power for the motor will have to generated by the alternator (which costs gas). This will cool ok in the majority of short use situations, but for more continous operation it won't match the OE unit, either in efficiency or economy.

    In terms of gas consumption, I doubt you could measure any difference, plus or minus, but there's probably a 'feelgood' factor. If you do get one it makes sense to wait until the standard clutch fan fails, and make sure to get a 'puller' rather than a 'pusher', as it's more efficient.
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    Drew;

    I have often thought about replacing my belt driven fan. I am convinced mine is "engaged" most of the time. I can hear it wind up shortly after I crank up. Also the air it stirs up blows the paper towels and light stuff I have hanging on the walls of my garage. Even cold, It is very stiff to turn the blades with the engine off (same warm). My local dealer won't even consider if it is bad. I think it is costing me mpg.

    If you do it, I want to know the results.

    Terry
  • ctjeep1ctjeep1 Member Posts: 1
    I JUST BOUGHT MY FIRST JEEP AND I'M LOOKING FOR A SOFT TOP. ARE BESTOPS WORTH THE HIGHER COST? IF YES...WHY?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Yes, they are.

    Bestop, I believe are the makers for the OEM top. There are others out there, but the Bestop quality is really hard to beat. I have a 97. I replaced the original, single-ply top with a sailcloth (3 layer) replace-a-top. It is fairly quiet, looks great, and fits like a custom glove.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Bestop are/were the OE supplier to DC. They make a range of tops from OE equivalent, to a cheaper economy version. In general, you can probably equate price to quality, either with Bestop, or another manufacturer.

    P.S. Please turn off your caps lock..........it's usually a way of indicating that you're SHOUTING! :mad:
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    I run a Rock Gear frameless soft top that uses the roll cage for support. Pretty minimalist but the windows all zip up into the top so that it turns into a bikini/safari. I like it.

    image

    image

    image
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    Paul;

    When you put on the 3 ply sailcloth top did you notice much increase in the bulk when it is folded down?

    I have a boot cover I like to use, however it fits pretty tight over folded down single ply top that came on my 2000 TJ.

    Terry
  • shawn06shawn06 Member Posts: 2
    Just bought an 06 Wrangler last week. Can't wait to share stories and photos once I get going. Lots of good info here.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Welcome Shawn (and congrats!).

    Take a look at image - it's a good place to make albums and post pics of your new Wrangler.

    Steve, Host
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Honestly, I can't say as I remember. When I bought the 97, it was already 2003, so it had 6 years of soCal desert sun rot. I never took it down with that old top. It was so ratty, I could see the sun THROUGH it. :)

    It is a bit bulkier, but I've never tried to cover it with anything, not even the tonneau cover that I THINK is the model to cover the top when down, but I'm not sure.

    However, when I drop the top and it stays attached to the Jeep, it is usually like that for a day or less, so I don't worry about covering it. It will sit entirely behind the top of the rear seat or just a bit above. Definitely below my 30" spare I had when I was running 30's.

    Once it gets warm enough here, the top will come off entirely (including frame) and my safari top will be the cover for most of the summer (along with a RainGear cover).

    -Paul
  • texasjeeptexasjeep Member Posts: 270
    Thanks for the info. I have heard they can be a pain to balance. I heard to use a shop that has a Hunter 9700 tire balancer.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Shawn:

    Welcome and congrats on that new Wrangler. It's a purchase that you will never regret!

    Glad you have joined us here. Just make yourself at home, and let us know when you get some pictures posted somewhere. As Steve suggested, there's a great place right here in Edmunds for posting your vehicle-related pics.

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • o2curiuso2curius Member Posts: 12
    Been awhile since I've been here but work has me going crazy. Been trying to find a good Suspension Lift for my baby and can't get a good straight story on it. Help if you can or share some knowledge with me. Found a 3" BDS system for $638, I'll install. Looked at a 4" SuperLift system for about the same price but I was told that with the 4" I would have to change other stuff. My driveshaft would have to be a CV style and I would need a Slip-Yoke Eliminator. My ? is this, can I runn the 4" without these mod's or is it better to run the 3"? BTW, I am on a budget. Thanks for any help guys. :)
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It seems that all Wranglers respond differently to being lifted, even those of the same specification, but a 3" lift seems to be the absolute limit before serious vibration problems arise. Even with a 3" lift you'll need to lower the transmission, or raise the engine. Generally, 2" is the max without any other mods.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Not sure if I have asked you already but where could I get a framless top like yours and how much should I expect to pay? Are they easy to put on and take off and are they secure? Thanks
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    You order them from the company that makes them, Rock Gear in New Mexico. I think the owner's name is Bob. Contact info is
    Rock Gear Inc.
    1515 West Apache.
    Farmington, NM 87401
    1-888-765-4327

    Price was about $350 which is pretty reasonable considering it works as both a soft top and a bikini/safari. Very easy to take on and off. It's the same fabric as a non-sailcloth soft top from Bestop or Jeep, they use the Haartz fabric and you can get it in factory colors or lots of other colors too. To turn it into a bikini, you loosen up the rear straps, roll up the windows, and zip them into the top. Pull it back from the windshield and it collapses very tightly behind the rear seat.
    image

    Not sure what you mean by secure. It's a soft top. Anyone who wants in can get in. Does it keep the elements out? Yeah. You can get it with or without the door surrounds. I got it without because I take the doors off alot. So instead there are these elastic door surrounds that keep the water out, but if it's really coming down you need to pop them on the outside of the doors which takes 4 or 5 seconds.
    image

    The fastback look is pretty hot though, and you'll never be without your windows. I picked up a pair of soft doors too so I can go anywhere now in the summer and not get stuck somewhere without doors/top.
  • o2curiuso2curius Member Posts: 12
    I have checked out the 2" Budget Boost and can't really see paying 100$ lees for 1" less. Granted that each Jeep has it's own personality, i might have to slap mine around a bit(j/k). Vibration is one word that everyone has been using, thinking I'll have to go with the 3" BDS. As for the driveline angle's....the 3" BDS Ultimate Kit comes with everything I need. Shocks, springs, TC lowering kit, track bars(upper and lower), sway bar links, rear sway bar re-location brackets.......and so on. Gonna order my new tires now. Oh, my wife got a new Digi Camera, I'll post before pictures this weekend. Thanks guys
  • zapatista2000zapatista2000 Member Posts: 33
    Hello again, everyone.

    I'm ready to put some bigger tires on my 01 Sport and possibly replace the carpeting with some kind of rubber liner (not sure what's out there, but I seem to remember hearing about this concept at some point). Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone knows a good place to go for such things in the DC/Northern Virginia area. If not, I'll just shop around.

    Thanks a lot.

    -J
  • barnz_69barnz_69 Member Posts: 75
    I'm not from Northern Virgina (or anywhere near, for that matter!), but I have also considered the rubber/vinyl carpet. Quadratec offers it through their catalogue and website at about $200, I think. I'm sure you can find other dealers, but the price of Quadratec's seems about right for something heavy duty and washable...
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