Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

rob35cts · August 2003

I recently change plugs and plug wires because I had very bad arching going on. I did have the converter checked. I have no leakes. The truck has 94k miles. I have white smoke out the exhaust when it is first started. It lasts about 3-5min then stops. It does not continue. I have had my wife drive in front of me so I could see if it was smoking when she drives. We both had walkie talkies so that I could tell her what I wanted. I have not had a compression test. That has been on my mind that the motor has a ring problem. But I have shyed away from that because it does not continue to burn oil out the pipe once warmed up. I did also change the muffler and tail pipe about six months ago. They asked me if I wanted the low flow or high flow and I asked them if it mattered. They said no so I took the low flow because it was cheaper. I know wander if that was the wrong choice.

I have never paid that fee so I would shop around and try to negotiate it out. 500 Is too much even if you had to pay it.

sonjaab · August 2003

Its not leaks in the cat. conv. ...they just get pluged up. Did ya check the EGR valve too. They get jammed up with carbon deposits and cause the problems you describe.

bowtieman1 · August 2003

Obvoiusly there are many different opinions about where to go on this one. Thats the value about this forum. Sooner or later your get your answer. Start up smoke - worn valve guides, I am concerned that smoke for 3-5 min, sounds excesive for just a worn valve guide problem. A compression test is in order. They are easy to do if you buy the guage yourself. I would also talk to an expert (GM service tech) about the low restrictive muffler. I know that newer engine technology needs high flow exhaust to perform properely. Does yours fall into this??????

Is your 94 fuel injected??

aspesisteve · August 2003

evergreen,
this is just another reason to negotiate an out the door (OTD) price. Because many dealers will play the game of agreeing to a "price" and then piling on "dealer" costs after you think you are done.

sonjaab · August 2003

Why I ask about the EGR is a friend has a 95.
Her EGR gets plugged up with carbon and it runs poorly, SES light on, eats gas bad.
Mechanic pulls off EGR and cleans out the carbon
Runs like new ! It has happened a few times.
WE bust on her cause she drives like grandma and tell her she need to BEAT on it once in a while.
She only has 50K on it !

To solve carbon buildup problem I found a mfr. of EGR gaskets with a screen in them to keep carbon chunks out of the EGR. Tamco Co. makes them 10 bucks!
Our local indy repair shop sees a lot of this in GMs and Fords of those years and keeps them IN STOCK ! 10 bucks is cheaper than $200 that the dealer wants to replace the EGR instead of cleaning it...........................geo

themailman1 · August 2003

How do you releive the pressure before taking the filter off? I don't have any special tools so all have to do it with is just regular tools.

jake · August 2003

is it ok to flush out the dex-cool and install the green stuff ? [2500] thanks .

rob35cts · August 2003

I didn't release the pressure on the gas line. I had a nice headache from all of the gas on the floor. I eventually got it cleaned up.

I have the old 350. I do not have the vortec. It is fuel injected. I am told it only has around 200 horses. I am going to check the muffler out. I will also check on the gauge as well for the compression test. Where is the egr located?

They did check the converter for a clog.

I really appreciate everyones suggestions.

sonjaab · August 2003

Is the round black or silver think on the right? rear side of the intake manifold near the throttle body aka fuel injector unit that looks like 1/2 a carb. on your year GM. It should have a vacuum hose or 2 hooked into it. It is held on by 2 bolts if memory serves me.............geo

gvoigt · August 2003

Why would you want to change it for the regular stuff?

suburbank2500 · August 2003

If this has been answered before, please forgive me for posting again, I'll be glad to look at the other posts where directed: To the point: I'm debating diesel vs. 8.1 gas, my question are the fumes put out by the DMax. My kids and I have asthma, and I was wondering if any DMax owners have noticed a high fume smell that would make breathing difficult.
Thanks

catam · August 2003

You need to pull the fuse for the fuel pump.
After you do that start the vehicle then let it run till it dies, then crank the engine over 4-5 times for about 3-5 seconds. This should relieve the fuel pressure to allow you to change the filter.

catam · August 2003

The duramax is definitely a much cleaner burning diesel than anything that came out prior to it. However, it is still a diesel burning american sulfur loaded diesel. My recommendation to you would be to go test drive one and have you and your kids stand by the exhaust with the engine running to see if you have any problems.
I know the Dmax is awesome, but it is not worth the health of my family. Besides, the 8.1L costs about $4000 less and gives very close to the same performance. I know the gas mileage sucks esp. when towing, but $4000 will buy a LOT of gas.

bonrea · August 2003

How are you guys getting these rebates of said $9,000. The only incentives I can get from my local GMC dealer is $2,000 to $3,000. Please help.

pmt3 · August 2003

I bought 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 2WD with 4.3 L 6 cyl this Spring. Since day one it's had two minor irritants.
  1) Under light load while driving or even with the auto trans in neutral with truck stopped, have a light vibration in the 1000 - 1500 RPM engine speed range. Can feel in the steering wheel and dashboard. Engine is otherwise pretty smooth - idles OK and quite smooth above 1500 RPM.
  2) Under moderate acceleration there is a slight "rattling" type noise from engine. It's not pinging, nor sounds quite like detonation. At steady speeds engine is quiet and under heavier acceleration the "rattling" seems to be barely noticeable. I have read some auto mag road tests that commented on the GM pickups having somewhat noisy engines.
  So I'm wondering if these two traits are inherent in the 4.3 engine or whether I should take to dealer service dept? Anyone else have any experience with such things? Thank you.

bowtieman1 · August 2003

before on townhall. Does anyone have info on the best Tonneau cover care methods-materials available. I was told by a boat dealer that Baby oil keeps boat vinyl in good shape. It actually makes the cover look good but my Tonneau sees much more UV exposure and other harsh elements. Any advise??

So far the new truck is great, many improvements over my 00.

bonrea · August 2003

I have a 2001 GMC Sierra SLT Z71. When one opens the doors or turns on the dome light there isnt enough light from overhead in the front of the truck. In my old 1993 GMC Jimmy the two map lights in the overhead console would come on with the dome lights. Does anyone have any information on how to convert the 2001 to do the same sort of thing?

tucsonjwt · August 2003

that was hinged on my Silverado long bed. This is a good value - I think somewhere around $250 -but it has its drawbacks. I used VERY expensive 303 protectant for the cover and the dash/vinyl trim. I think it was about $25 + per quart and that tonneau really eats it up. It was the best I found. I never tried baby oil - sounds like it might attract a lot of dirt. Good Luck.

tucsonjwt · August 2003

and had the same engine characteristics, but I would describe them as very slight symptoms. If you have good gas mileage and no oil consupmtion I would not worry about it, but it won't cost you anything to take it into the dealer and document your complaint. I did have a miss in my engine and found out that one of the injectors was completely non-functional. The dealer can at least rule out something like that, and I would definitely take it in. A Chevy V6 will be somewhat noisy, but the level of noise that is tolerable is a matter of personal perception. This engine has been around for a long time, so it is not a problem engine. At least you don't have the infamous "cold start knock" on the 4.8 and 5.3 V8s. Let us know what the dealer says.

bowtieman1 · August 2003

What is the 303 protectant?? Like a kicked up armorall?? How long does it last? Expensive doesnt bother me if it lasts. Has anyone else used this?

sonjaab · August 2003

I am sittin' here in so. Jersey.....Man would you fellas DROOL over some of the old trucks down here. A LOAD of 80s GM fullsize...NO rust....
Spotted a 65 Chevy c-10 old guy driving...Mint, (faded)original paint wow ! (exactly like the one my dad had and I learned how to drive in...6 banger, 3 on the tree!) Older cars too 70s-80s all over !
Man, you don't see iron like this in northern NY rust belt and salt land except at a car show!

BOWtie: Yea 303 is like armorall etc. Some guys swear by it ! But pricey $$$$. Heck I have used both....They all run off my tonneau cover when it rains..making streaks down the side of my truck!.................geo

obyone · August 2003

One rain and 303 is gone.

dmaddz71 · August 2003

abc246,
thanks for your feedback. Is there anymore insight that you can give me on the locker, as I am convinced that it may still be broken?
It just does not seem to work as well as it used to. It used to lock up when one tire was in mud and the other one was on pavement; now it'll just sit there and spin.
thanks again.

tucsonjwt · August 2003

Try www.303products.com for more info. I have heard some say/read that Armor All can do more harm than good. 303 seems to last longer than other products I have tried. Since I live in the desert, rain is usually not an issue - sun damage is. I would put a heavy coat of paste wax on the sides of the box if I was concerned about runoff. Without some kind of protection I think the weather would eat up any soft cover in a couple of years. Or - buy a hard cover, folding hard top, Avalanche, etc.

obyone · August 2003

Lasts way longer than 303. I uses the 303 for interior applications only since I didn't particularly care to have it wash away after one rain and at $25 a quart.

abc246 · August 2003

I read exactly how it works in detail on (I think) the company website that makes the axel. I think the company is American Axel.

I have a V-6 too and can hear a rattle when the torque converter is locked at low speed in overdrive (from 36 mph to about 45 mph); it is the driveshaft rattling. There is a TSB on it, but I am OK with the noise. I like the trans locked. I have driven a Dodge diesel that made the same noise.

bonrea · August 2003

FYI

That website: http://www.aam.com/

artt · August 2003

The locking diff for GM is made by:
http://www.torquecontrol.eaton.com/

bonrea · August 2003

Have a 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z71 5.3L w/AT and towing package GVW 6400lbs. I purchased it used in July w/30000 miles and have experienced a problem with the steering pulling to the left. Not hard but enough to be annoying, the dealer I purchased it from claims they did an alignment on it the day before I was to pick it up but it still does it. I am taking it back to them tomorrow. Ill keep you posted. I want to keep everyone posted because further back into this discussion, dated two years ago, I noted someone saying that GM has had to replace the power steering pump to solve a pull to the right. May be tough to convince them this may be the problem. I keep the tires [Fstone] inflated properly but still have the pull.

I also have the hard shifting problem [noticed it when test driving it} from 1st to 2nd gear. It is only getting worse. If anyone has found a solution to this problem PLEASE let me know because the BtoB warranty runs out Jan. 1 of 2004.

chevy4me · August 2003

I get the err mesage and the cd ejects every time I try one.The player is the auxillary one in the console with the bucket seats.It does it hot or cold and have tried brand new cd's.Is this how they die? The truck is a 99 1500 ls ext cab.

iamgwc · August 2003

Extang the manufacturer of my tonneau cover recommends their own product and cautions against Armor All stating that they believe it will cause shrinkage of the material. All this being said, I have not used it. http://www.extang.com/docs/tonnotonic.html

sonjaab · August 2003

Did you check the tire pressure ? Or try to swap the wheels around ? Could be the cause.

My 01 2500 pulled to the left when new. Dealer said they realigned it twice before I signed on the dotted line........Still pulled.....

2 weeks later the right front wheel FOLDED IN !
YUP, No nut or cotter pin on upper ball joint !

Lucky me....It happened when I was pulling out of McDs SLOWLY with the kiddies after they won their softball game...
Man..If it happened at speed.............

Aside from that NO problems in 2 1/2 yrs. And I work that puppy towing, hauling, and snowplowing!
Good luck !.............geo

sonjaab · August 2003

Is your truck cold when you have that hard 1-2 shift? Or does it do it all the time ?

Mine does...But I love that FIRM 1-2 shift !
My Caddy shifts ya can't even feel..Unless it at WOT....But we are comparing apples to oranges on the 2...........

bowtieman1 · August 2003

My 00 truck pulled to the right. Dealer said the Front tires were cupped and replaced all four tires. Service person stated that it is essential to rotate tires on the new chevys (this was in 00) every 7500 miles.
It happened again after that and when I rotate the tires the problem goes away. Dont know if it will work in your case but it may be worth the 20 minutes to try it.

bonrea · August 2003

Thanks for the input. Yes the tire pressure was the first thing I checked but didnt move the tires around yet. Sorry to here about the nut on the ball joint. Man that is serious stuff especially with the kids in the back. Not in the bed I hope

The update is that the dealer determined that the tire is the problem with the left pull. So they have ordered (under warranty) a new one and will call when it is in. Ill let you know how that goes. The hard shift for the transmission was solved via a computer update. It DID solve the problem. It did it hot or cold so now I need to test it and see how long the fix lasts. Nice and smooth now.

On another note; I have the Z71 w/towing package. What size trailer in tonnage is to much for this truck. The wife wants me to get us a camper but am a little dumb on just how to figure the GVW and stuff like that. I pull a small U-Haul box trailer once in a while but she is talking about a BIG boy now.

Any feedback would be welcomed.

bonrea · August 2003

Anyone have an idea of where wiring diagrams can be obtained online and displayed online? I dont need to purchase the an entire book but need to find out how the map lights are connected in my 2001 Sierra Ext. Cab.

bonrea · August 2003

If any of you have a tech manual that covers the 2001 Silverado/Sierra 1500 ext. cab with the overhead console, and it has the interior lighting wiring diagram in it and if you have a computer document scanner, please scan that diagram and email it to me at diagram@carolina.rr.com
.

Thanks

nowicksl · August 2003

I have just ordered a driver's side window regulator for my '99. Cheezy cables looks like a Fiat design from years ago...
Anyway, does anybody have experience with this, or a diagram of how to get this back together/adjusted properly?

Just took it apart today, 'cause I am off work due to the electric outage

Is this a normal junk part?

Thanks!
Steve

rob35cts · August 2003

I have recently changed the rotor and cap as well as checking the egr valve. I have not seen an increase in mileage. I have checked half of the plugs and have found one that is burning more oil than the rest. Tuesday I will be doing a compresion test. If it is what I think, is it hard to change the rings? I will not pay to get this done. I would trade first. The bad part is the 94 is in prestine condition. Other than wash marks is looks as good today as it did when I bought it brand new. (I take super care of my vehicles).

catam · August 2003

If you have to ask about the difficulty with changing the rings, then the job is probably well beyond your scope. It is basically a complete engine tear down. Also there are many other things that can cause 1 or 2 cylinders to be low on compression besides rings, and none are an easy or cheap fix.
If you really like the truck, and want to keep, you may want to look into a complete motor swap with a rebuilt unit. If you have the means to pull the engine and necessary components from the engine, you can probably find a replacement motor for $1000 to $1500.

bowtieman1 · August 2003

Motor swaps are difficult if you do not have the knowledge. They can be easy if you have the right tools and some knowledge. Your 94 would be easier that the new models. If you want motor change details I am sure that you can get them here BUT it would be most advisable to have an experienced person helping. This can be done in a barn yard setting, Thats how most of us learned. Dont know what a low mile used engine would run but it would be worth the research. Than again you could kick the performance up a notch or two with the right choice. DONT get the perception that a engine swap would degrade the truck, done right your pristine 94 would run good as new. Tell us what the results of the engine tests are when you get them. A oily fouled plug could be worn valve guides, typical GM problem.

tommy42 · August 2003

If you can afford it get a Good wrench engine. They are new in a crate. 3 year / 36000 mile warranty. You use intake &accessories off the old engine.

rob35cts · August 2003

I have a very experienced person that will probably help if I ask. I am trying not to bug him yet. I am helping his son in law build a room on his house so I imagine he will help me. I will know the results on tues as I am going to start in the morning, I was too busy with getting ready to start a new school year and my athletic director duties to work on it today. My father in law is coming down with his timing light also. My only problem is I do not know which lead is the distributor ingnition wire as I have to disconect it so it is bypassed. Then I can check the timing. please advise. I will call local dealership at 7:30 to see if they will tell me. But if anyone know please let me know any time I can save will be helpfull as I have a ton of other things on my plate besides this truck.

blackmax200 · August 2003

Bonrea, sent you 2 jpgs. One 215kb the other 196kb let me know if you have any trouble
matthew

yeah guys I been "lurkin"

rob35cts · August 2003

I haven't been able to find the compression max that a engine should have if it is in proper working order. Does anyone know how to figure this??????

I have a chilton book but it doesn't say. I need to do a dynamic compression test tomorrow. I will give the results of it and the static, that i did today, tommorrow. My reading ranged from 175 to 190 before they topped out. That usually took around 8 turns. I figure the 190 is about 10 high because those 2 plugs also had excessive black carbon build up so I figure their is also carbon build up in the cylinder which will cause compression to increase. Most were around 180 but I wonder if that is what I should have expected. Every cylinder was about 10 less if I went 4 cranks. Here is the static. Why wait.
4... 8 ... wet ... ..... ... 4 ... 8
176/187 .... ....... .... 171/180
170/175 .... ....... .... 180/190
174/181 .... ....... .... 170/180
138/145/180 .......... .174/181
Front

4turns/8turns/wet(oil) These are what the abreviations stand for.Their was very heavy carbon on the 190 and 187 cylinder.

bowtieman1 · August 2003

The last time I did a compression test was on my 87 chevy truck. I dont remember all the details but I do recall only cranking three times to get the number. I did not do any wet test. If your wet test is squirting a litttle oil in the cylinder that this is not an accurate compression test. (someone argue with me on this one) I am sure that having one cylinder out of eight in a dry test that reads 138 merits further investigation or at least additional opinions. Pleaase give a detailed description on the heavy carbon build up. Heavy carbon build up is an indicator of incomplete/poor combustion. some times excessive oil burning can also leave the appearance of carbon build up. Is this fuel injection?? Throttle body (yuk) ??? I looked back thru your postings and, unless I missed it I did not see any change of plug wires. How many miles are on your truck?

One additional thought, Camshaft, it may be time to take a valve cover(s) off, start the truck and watch rocker arm movement. If the cam lobes are worn and 1-2 intake or exhaust valves are not opening all the way tis could seriously impact performance and fuel usage. Also ask someone how to measure voltage to each cylinder.

This has taken me back to the days of street racing where we couldnt afford to pay someone to fix it or change it, we did it ourselves.. Thanks!

rob35cts · August 2003

You guys wouldn't believe it. I did all of my tests and didn't find anything real bad except one cylinder was a little week. I continued today with a dynamic compression test and I didn't find anything wrong. When I put the plugs back in I cleaned them real well. I took it for a test drive and found that the power and speed had returned. I had changed my plug wires and plugs in early april. I upgraded to bosch wires and plugs. So today i went to boschusa.com and looked at reading plugs and what it says about your engine performance. My plugs looked like plug number 2. The chilton book also talked about if the plug runs too cold it will foul easily. My father in law also believed that the plugs were running to cool and as a result not burning off the carbon off of the plug. I have bought O.E. plugs and will be putting the in soon. My plugs never looked like that in the past. In the past they always had a little white carbon. They were definately not fouled due to oil use. My plugs looked nothing like the plugs that were on the net that were fouled from oil use.

So the conclusion-- upgrading to $30 dollar plugs (for 8) cost me alot of time and gas and money to figure out not only do they not improve my performance but they made it worse. I should have stuck with the $12 plugs.
Thanks guys for all of your help. This problem would have cost me much more if I would have had someone else do the work.

catam · August 2003

Like bowtie, I haven't done a compression test since about 88. Although if I remember correctly a 5% variation from the mean is perfectly acceptable.
Congrats on finding your problem. That one would have been a stumper for me also. Sure is a relief to find you can fix a prob for $12 and 30 minutes, instead of $1200 and a day or 2.

sonjaab · August 2003

Its funny you mentioned aftermarket plugs as the cause!

In my years as a GM fanatic..I have learned to use only AC plugs in my GM vehicles.

surrfurtom · August 2003

Just curious if anyone has found an after market armrest cover or extension for the split seat fold down armrest.

The armrest that comes on the 2000,etc. Sierra Ext Cab with the split seat has a design that is not that comfortable as a armrest. It is hard to find a comfortable position for the arm with that depressed hard center section of the folding armrest. Just curious if others have found this to be true and if a fix has been found. Thanks.

Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles