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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

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  • kg11kg11 Member Posts: 530
    '07 ???
    I wonder how much will change before it hits the market. Do you know the displacement of the V10? Overhead cam or pushrod? Allison isn't making the tranny are they?
  • bristol123bristol123 Member Posts: 22
    I've had my 04 CC since March and have not been back to the dealer even once for it. No issues to date. It has 9000 miles on it and has been very reliable. I had a 01 Ext. Cab before this one and it also was very reliable. Sorry to hear about your problems. I hope they clear up for you. Good luck.
  • baredoggbaredogg Member Posts: 32
    not much info just all new metal the v10 for denali tranny is gm hydromatic so far the allison just to much more info will follow
  • chevy4mechevy4me Member Posts: 203
    Obyone or anyone , Ihave '99 with 46 k miles and belt just jumped off after starting up. I admit I was to replace it soon ,but would have expected a break in the belt but it actually still looks good. any thoughts? what happend to DAVE 40 ?
  • baredoggbaredogg Member Posts: 32
    check your idler pully they have been know to fail and throw the belt. Something changed to cause this to happen good luck
  • boomer1bboomer1b Member Posts: 316
    Prob. a bad idler tension pulley. Call the GM 800 customer # with your VIN# . Maybe a free recall for ya..........

    Dave 40 ? Him and Franklin prob. bought a tindra and are happily working the south 40......
    "Good luck on this one now!"
  • quadrunner501quadrunner501 Member Posts: 94
    Dave40 bought a Dodge. Thayt thang got a hemi? Yu'r about to find out!
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Plowheads at Pizzaria Uno this Saturday right ?? I'll stop in and say hi ! You gonna have a display or something set-up?

    Picked up new front rotors from Carquest for $51 ea, made in Canada, no Chinese crap here ! Guy told me lucky I had 2 w.d. 4x4 rotors are much more.

    Ray T
  • boomer1bboomer1b Member Posts: 316
    The shindig is on the 30th 10 am to 5 at Taconic Maint. on Cottage St.. We go to Pizza Uno later
    and stay across the street at the Best Inn......

    Hope to se ya ! Go to http://www.snowplowing-contractors.com for details or directions.
    Or I will send them to ya !................
  • boomer1bboomer1b Member Posts: 316
    THose 4x4 rotors were $pendy !

    Will be handing out my bars "Hangovers installed and Serviced shirts" Info on Turkey Wings snow removal devices and info on the beautiful 1000 Islands NY......................
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    Can someone provide me with instructions for the proper way to remove the driver's side door panel?
    I'm not quite sure how to do it, and I don't want to break anything in the process.
    2001 Silverado LS ext-cab.
    -David
  • mrbearmrbear Member Posts: 3
    My 04 crewcab says that it has a coolant heater also but i have not been able to locate it.If there is anyone out there that can help me,i would appreciate it!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Try http://users2.ev1.net/~jpendlum/

    Scroll to the bottom look under the title instructions - disassembly of front doors

    Also note: Only thing i noticed which wasnt on there is to disconnect the speaker wire. Also the bolt size (2) in the door is a 7mm. Only problem i had was removing the power window/door wires. Its one unit but i wanted to take my time so i didnt break it.
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    Thanks for the link.

    About a year ago the dealer replaced the window motor (under warranty) as it was making a loud click sound when the window was going up. Since then every once in a while I get locked out of the drivers side when I'm outside the truck and I shut the door. Seems the mechnical linkage to lock the door lock needs to be adjusted as I noticed the manual door lock switch movement is not as much as on the passenger side when the door is unlocked. Shutting the door hard joggles that switch a little, just enough to lock the door.
    Mostly happens when I'm at the marina putting my boat in the water at the boat launch.
    Thought I'd try fixing it myself before I ask the dealer to fix the problem they created.
    Have a good weekend.
    -David
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    David; I've had my door panels off numerous times recently and there's no adjustment on that linkage. Something isn't right though. It's likely that the linkage is bound up somehow. The rod slides back and forth in three plastic guides which it snaps into. If your living right you'll find it just wasn't re assembled correctly. If you have to, take the passenger side off as well so you can compare them. It sounds like much work but, once you get the hang of it, five minutes tops.

    -David
  • themailman1themailman1 Member Posts: 95
    I have a 2001 Sierra Z71, with 5.3. What is the best gear oil to use in the transfer case and rear end?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    You dont use gear oil in the transfer case. You have to use the gm Autotrak II fluid (blue stuff). Its pretty cheap only like $3-4 a qt.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    where can one get the orange coolant?
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    I'd like to know too. Shocked yesterday by the dealer price for DexCool , 18+ per gal. Yikes!
    If I find something online I'll post it.

    -David
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I got some Havoline Dexcool at walmart.
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    If you want to see somthin' scary? Do a Google on DexCool.

    -David
  • themailman1themailman1 Member Posts: 95
    What about the rear end fluid?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    well you could buy the gm stuff at like $22 a qt. I did that and next time I change it I am using Mobil 1 75W-90. Its like $6.99 a qt at autozone.
  • newusernewuser Member Posts: 1
    I presently own a 1500 GMC 4x4 and am looking at purchasing the 2005 chevy/gmc 2500 hd Duramax.
    I would like to hear form owners of duramax, if they had to do it over again would they buy another duramax? What about gas milage without a load?
  • dlamantiadlamantia Member Posts: 1
    good morning,
    04 silverado 4wd work truck. is anyone familiar with a dash rattle when the rpm's exceed 2,000 ? everything appears tight but...
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    David, did you see this article on dexcool. Seemed to make the most sense to me...so far anyway.

    http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/dexcool-macs200- 1.htm
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    After popping off the manual door lock switch, the problem with my door lock not unlocking far enough was evident. It appears that my door panel has sagged about 1/4" causing linkage that mates thru a diamond shaped slot on the back of the manual door lock switch plate to not be lined up correctly. I tried loosening up the 2 screws that hold the panel to the door and raising up the panel, but it seemed to not want to stay in the correct place.
    So I just took a utility knife and whittled a little off of that diamond shaped back piece of the manual door lock switch so it now looks more like a square.
    Problem is now fixed. The linkage no longer binds up on the manual switch, opens all of the way when in the unlock position, and best of all doesn't lock me out of the driver's side when I shut the door.
    -David
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Was this problem of yours on the drivers side or pass side? Did it make a clicking type noise when unlocking the door? I might have the same problem. HMMM it seems my pass side door lock is hanging up at times. Makes a funny louder click when unlocking
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    My problem was in the driver's door. I never noticed a change in the noise or loudness of the locking and unlocking clicking sound, but I really didn't listen for one. Mine was more visual. I noticed that the little sliding part on the manual door lock switch plate was not going forward as much as on the passenger door. Only about 1/2 of the orange paint would show when in the unlocked position.
    The door panel was no longer in the correct position (sagged about 1/4") causing the lock linkage that mates thru a diamond shaped slot on the back of the manual door lock switch plate to not be lined up correctly.
    It's easy to check to see if you have the same probem I had. Use a flat head screw driver to pop off the manual door lock switch plate. Then gently remove the little sliding part from the manual door lock switch plate assembly and place the other part back onto the door panel (the one with the orange paint on it). Lock and unlock your door to see if the linkage moves back and forth between the long ends of the diamond shaped opening. My linkage was about 1/4" above the center of the diamond shaped opening, so the linkage was not moving it's full range to lock and unlock the door. Thus the problem with the door locking sometimes when I would shut it hard.
    Good luck.
    -David
  • fireandicefireandice Member Posts: 4
    Hey guys...I have a 2001 5.3L ext cab z-71 with 60,000 miles. Its not near as spunky as another 01 Sierra I test drove before purchasing this one. I am going to put new plugs and wires in, but does anyone have any suggestions for performance upgrades that are cost effective? Do the PCM's really work and are they worth the money. How about the K&N FIPKII?
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    Anyone with a 1500 4WD Silverado/Sierra with that famous clunk in the steering? Well if you do you can take it back to the dealer soon. They are replacing the intermediate shafts with ones from a different vendors. The new shafts are on dealer back order until around late December, early January, while they fill the factories with the new parts and get caught up with dealer demand. Best thing to do is to take it in to the dealer and they will diagnose and place the part on order for your truck, this way your part is reserved for you.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Not sure what you mean by cost effective performance upgrades but I did a ton of them. If I had to do it over again, I'd buy and install a supercharger and be done with it. The K&N FIPK will give you more engine compartment resonance than horsepower gain. PCM reprogramming won't net you much in terms of cost per hp increase. Neither will headers, catback, or dual exhausts. More noise makers than anything else.

    Bang for the buck and blow that Sierra into the weeds...install a supercharger.
  • fireandicefireandice Member Posts: 4
    Thank you obyone for your help. I really didn't want to spend much $ on things to make it sound better. Looking for power!!! :) If I were to install a supercharger, is there a particular brand that you know might be better than others? There are many on the market, and many with people disatisfied with the quality or warranty.
  • fireandicefireandice Member Posts: 4
    Well, I guess another question might be...how does GM take this same 5.3L and use it in other vehicles producing more HP?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    This article is dumb. Why in the world would you use ordinary tap water to dilute your antifreeze to form 50:50 mix? Distilled water is to way to go and its cost is negligible: about 75 cents a gallon at your nearest K-Mart. Regular tap water contains minerals that will eventually precipitate out and cause plugging of the radiator passages. If you pay $ 18 for a gallon of DexCool, I suppose you can afford 75 cents for a gallon of distilled water.

    I personally change coolant in my vehicles every 30K miles. And my radiators are crystal clean at 100K + miles in every vehicle I own and no colling system problems.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    The havoline dexcool at walmart was like $8 a gallon and I think I paid $0.88 for distilled water.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    About a month ago I had my emergency brake shoes replaced - Which was strange because I have never even used them. The shop manager ask me if I had just had my truck inspected - yes if fact I had just two weeks before. He said that he sees many chevy trucks that within a few weeks of inspection develop e-brake problems. Seems that the yearly inspection test of the e-brake will - since the brakes don't get used much - cause something to hang up / bind. The result is your brake shoes wear out. He recommended setting your brake every time you get gas - that way it gets used every week or so.

    I have now developed a rear brake "groan" - I notice it only when I am at a stop sign and allow the truck to inch forward - it sounds like the brakes are not 100 % released - like they are dragging - once I drive ahead they seem fine.

    Anyone have this situation? I have 40K on the original pads - when I had the e-brake work done the mechanic told me I had almost 1/2 of my rear pads left - so I don't think it is worn pads.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    With a little searching, you'll find this is quite common and I don't think it has anything to do with the inspection. It seems these parking brake pads drag a little all the time and wear out quickly. It's a bad design, GM can't seem to get it right. Might be why they're going to drum brakes on the '05 models. Plus, the rear disks take a beating if you drive in a lot of dirty conditions. My '02 Tahoe parking brake hasn't worked properly since around 25k miles. The dealer adjusted it and it worked again for awhile. I use mine all the time, just as a back-up when I park on steep hills.
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    I thought with my 2001 truck I wouldn't need to change coolant until it reached 100,000 miles? Is it a mistake to wait that long?
  • bballabballa Member Posts: 56
    just got back from the dealer after getting the cables replaced with the "improved" stainless steel models as per the recall, and on inspection noticed a white tag left on each cable that reads made in China. WTF. Has anyone else had their cables replaced yet and if so were they Chinese?
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    Thanks for the high quality link. Well, I guess I'm off to Wallmart.

    David; I'm not sure I trust that 100K claim. May be just marketing. It might be OK if you had to stretch it, but I don't. I'm changing mine at 50K, just because that pretty orange color it had when it was new is faded. :-) ......BTW - Congratulations on the easy fix with your door lock.

    -David
  • ghislainghislain Member Posts: 34
    Going in tomorrow to replace the tailgate cables on 2003 Silverado in Ottawa Canada; will let you know where the Canuck cables come from.
  • jtt3jtt3 Member Posts: 20
    Had my tailgate cables replaced and both have a white sticker that says made in China. Funny part is the one on the right is longer and has slack in it with tailgate open. LOL
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    My owner's manual states 150,000 miles or 5 years. Being that I bought my '00 in July '99 puts me a bit past due on this issue. What's interesting is that the manual calls for 50/50 mix with dexcool and clean, drinkable water. Guess they didn't have distilled water back in '99.

    noobie-

    Glad you liked the link and I'm off the Walmart....
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    As far as I know the GM trucks and SUV's are the only applications for the 5.3 with none tuned for performance like the 5.4 in the Ford Lightning. The rated hp output is 285 which is very near to the 300 hp limit of the 4L-60e. My Denali is rated at 320hp with the 6.0 thus requiring the 4L-65e trans.

    Bottom line, any major increase in power out of that 5.3 will require the upgrading of the transmission and rear end. Which for most can't be justified.
  • chevy4mechevy4me Member Posts: 203
    What is the normal lifespan of the serpentine belt tensioners (in miles). Also the idler pulley.I am changing the belts and wonder if it would be good to change them out at the same time? truck has 47k miles. Also is there anywhere to get emissions related parts online?
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    chevy4me- I'm no real mechanical expert, but if it's like most other cars I've owned, you shouldn't have to replace the tensioner(s)/pulley(s). I think that these parts are usually designed to last the lifetime (of the car, not YOU, :D), and barring an unusual occurance, should last that long with no troubles.

    I say "usually", because the 1997 Malibu I used to own had two pulleys AND the tensioner all go bad. But that was because of a bad alternator that was eating belts, which caused excessive stress on the other parts.
  • fireandicefireandice Member Posts: 4
    Well that kinda shoots down my hopes for a supercharger. :( Its very hard to justify spending $5000 on a SC then having to upgrade the trany.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Well I was surprised to find in the mail today a check for $34.51 from the tailgate cables I went through. It came pretty fast (maybe 3-4 wks from when I sent it) and I thought they would somehow try and deny it. If you are waiting dont worry they are on their way!!!
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I'd probably buy a Lightning or Dodge SRT-10. Would make life a bit simpler. Course you could also check out the SSR with the 6.0 and 390 hp.

    http://www.edmunds.com/new/2005/chevrolet/ssr/100397072/specs.htm- l?tid=edmunds.n.researchlanding.leftsidenav..8.Chevrolet*
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