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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout
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Comments
Keep in mind that I bought back in early October though. If I understood the ads correctly, the Av's had better deals / incentives going more recently (translation: maybe I shoulda waited?).
BTW, dog-dung stinks. Coulda, woulda, and shoulda don't.
The one I have now is a 99 5.3 gas 2wd 3.42 rear-end
With a recent trip back east (no trailer) I got 20-21 mpg (2 people with back of Extcab full) at "highway" miles/hr. "No one passed us"...
I do have a small "race trailer" I pull level ground 80 miles round trip. Trailering vs non-trailering is 10/90 ie 90% of the time this is my "driver ride"
Now the question: I was planning to purchase the new 2005 5.3 gas 2wd with a 3.23 which will give me max "driver" mpg... I think the 3.23 which is rated just 1,000 lbs less then the 3.73 and still at a max of 7,300 Max trailer weight (8,300 with the 3.73) will be Just fine with my 3000 lb trailer,,,
The dealers, since the 3.23 are "hard to find" are trying to switch me to the 3.73 saying that the MPG will be LESS the 1 MPG difference... (as a "driver" (no trailer)
I think this is TOTAL bogus. I have not heard of any 3.73 getting over 18MPG . I get close to 19 with some street and most highway (70+ mph) on a routine basis. I think I will be VERY unhappy with a 3.73 MPG..
Chime in: This is a Question NOT a statement
thanks in advance, tom
Most of my driving is "city".
It's obvious the 3.23 will do the best on fuel, and considering you rarely tow, I think I'd look for one. 1mpg might be the actual difference, or maybe 2mpg. Regardless, over 100k miles you're talking about saving 250-500 gallons of fuel. I can't think of a reason to burn that fuel if the 3.23 will do everything you want. And it will.
Haev not driven much in last five months; took it out for a spin on highway yesterday brake were real mushy and the emergency brake just goes to the floor and does not even slow the truck down. Are there any TSB's on this as it certainly seems to be very common,
I am going in on to the shop on Thursday and expect the usual routine of "this is normal.
Thanks and please read on
'02 Chevy Silverado, Brake Eater
Q: My ’02 Chevy Silverado K1500 eats the right rear brakes. The truck has only 43k miles and I’m now on my third set of rear brakes. I had to replace the right rear brake rotor at 18k because I didn’t hear the brake pads grinding and it damaged the rotor. The truck didn’t even make it to 30k miles when the right rear brake was worn out again. Now with 43k I am looking at another brake job on the rear. The front brakes look like new and the left rear was never more then 75% worn, but was replaced each time when the right rear brake was replaced. The mechanic says this is a problem with GM trucks and that it doesn’t matter what brand of brake pads I have put on it will still wear. What’s the deal? Doesn’t GM know how to build trucks that don’t eat up brakes?!
A: Oh yes, that infamous right rear brake pad problem. GM has had a problem with the rear brakes on their light duty trucks. There is a fix. The ALLDATA Information System shows GM Technical Service Bulletin # 00-05-23-005B, which to simply describe is a mud flap kit. This kit addresses rapid brake pad wear problem that is found on most GMC and Chevy trucks made from ’99 to ’04. The right rear brake caliper and pads are located in such a manner that road dirt flies right into the brake pads. This steady diet of dirt causes the brakes pads to wear out really fast. The GM mud flap kit is installed to block bombardment of road dirt and debris that is causing the brake pads to wear out so quickly. The GM kit part number is 15765007 and is pretty easy to install. Before your next brake job I would suggest installing the mud flat kit. I think if you check with your dealership they be very agreeable to install the mud flap kit.
Question to all: Since GM says the whine is normal, do you folks out there have a whine?
FWIW- I just purchased a 2004 Siverado regular cab short box 4X4 with the 5.3l V-8 and the 3.73:1 rear gear. I live in Michigan, so I weight my rear with about 500 pounds of bagged sand for the winter. I commute 114 miles a day round trip to and from work, virtually all of it expressway driving. Depending on my speed, I average between 19.3 mpg and 21.5 mpg. The low end of the speed range is 55 mph and the high end is 70mph. Considering that this truck is 4 wheel drive and probably weighs in at around 4000 pounds, I think the mileage is fantastic.
nb2169
Lowest - 12.5 mpg, (battery discharged sitting on dealer lot, dealer jumpstarted the truck, gassed it up, then let it run for nearly two hours at idle to make sure the battery was still good and had a good charge)
Highest - 19.2 mpg, 10% city / 90% highway, ALWAYS at or below speed limits, late fall. Not bad considering the truck isn't broken in yet, cool temperatures, driving part of the time with defroster / A/C on.
Current (winter) average - most commonly between 17.8 and 18.5 mpg. Same mix as I obtained the highest number for so far, but much colder average temperatures, running auto climate control / heat more often.
Long trip average - 17.5 mpg. Not bad at all, since I was driving a minimum of 5 over the speed limit in late November in hilly interstate terrain. Speeds were consistently between 70 and 80 over the whole trip.
Once I change to synthetic oil, temperatures come back up, and the truck gets broken in I expect to consistently see greater than 19 mpg on my daily drive (or in other words, at least a 1 mpg improvement in most driving situations, and giving me greater than 18 even on long highway trips where I push the speed up a bit).
I can't vouch for others' experiences with this combination of engine and gearing. But with my own driving style I find this truck to be much more frugal with the fuel than I expected when I bought it, and in line with the numbers on the window sticker (possibly a bit better once broken in).
Edit: Forgot to mention that these averages were manually calculated and kept in a log that I keep with the truck. The DIC usually indicates anywhere from .5 to almost 2 mpg higher than I calculate by hand too, in case anyone out there just uses it to track their mileage (so figure to add at least .5 to my numbers above to compare to your numbers if so ).
I have always averaged between 15-16 MPG in around town driving
On highway trips I get almost (but never) 20 MPG
I normally put the cruise on 79 MPH - unless the traffic is flowing faster - normally don't go much over 85 MPH.
The MPG calculations do NOT adjust for the larger tires because I saw no drop in MPG after putting the larger ties on.
My next truck will have the lowest gearing offered (4.1 I think)
Wonder if Tim ever got his done yet ?? Are ya listening out there Tim ??
Got the warranty replacement Westin step bars to put on when winter finally retreats but that'll be another month at least. Now I'll start putting away for the next new truck purchase down the road.
Ray T
Hows the Mini doing ? My 04 is pushing lots of snow and working hard. Just cracked 7k miles in 11 months. NO dealer visits or problems so far.
The next BBQ is in Oct. again. Make plans!
Yup, still got the truck and will for another 5 years before it's time for another. Maybe GM will have gotten rid of the piston slap by then. LOL
Planning the barbeque already, damn you guys are one hungry bunch.
I'm waitng for all that snow the weatherman keeps telling us is coming........4 p.m. here in Rockland County N.Y. and only flurries. Must be a slow news day again for these reporters.
If we get more than 6 inches the Mini is grounded since the front spoiler will start acting like a plow till it can't push no more. Looks like a day off will be in order for tomorrow.
Ray T.
Thank you
Pam
Not sure of the #. 14? But it will be marked DRL.
Note: If you have fog lights....They will also be disabled.
Also check out http://www.lightsout.org
I believe a 383 is a "stroked" 350. Maybe a 400 crank being used? That '87 could be a 350, or could be a 305(DOG!)
The southern tier of NY (your old stompin' ground) is getting LOTS of snow!
The 305 would be sweet with vortec heads, a little higher compression ratio, some headers exhaust, throttle body spacers, k&n stuff and all the government crap ripped out(cats, and smog stuff). It's no better than the 4.3 in stock form, but it's no worse either and it's a V8.
www.manheimgold.com
-David
1. Turn ignition key to the run position with engine off.
2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds. The oil life message will flash while resetting.
3. Turn key back to the off position.
You should be all set. If not try it again !
Suspension - Front Coil Spring Noise
Bulletin No.: 99-03-08-002B
Date: May 06, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Front Suspension Coil Spring Noise (Install New Coil Spring Insulator)
Models:
1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2WD 1500 Series
1999-2004 GMC Sierra 2WD 1500 Series Models
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-03-08-002A (Section 03 - Suspension).
Condition
Some owners may comment on front suspension noise. The noise may be described as a "bong" or "clunk" noise. The noise may be more noticeable when driving slowly over bumps or backing the vehicle out of a driveway.
Cause
The front coil spring contacting the frame may cause this condition.
Correction
A new front coil spring insulator has been developed to correct this condition. Install a new insulator (1) to the top of both front coil springs. Refer to the Front Suspension subsection of the appropriate Silverado and Sierra Service Manual for coil spring removal/installation procedures.
This new insulator replaces any existing coil spring insulators. Remove and discard the existing insulator before installing the new insulator.
are replacing the steering gear box. Hopefully
that repair will take care of the front-end noise.
Orville