Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

jerrywimer · February 2005

The Av'll fit in more garages too. Fortunately our house has a garage that's about 6' deeper than the truck's length (used about 4' of that with a workbench though, lol).

Keep in mind that I bought back in early October though. If I understood the ads correctly, the Av's had better deals / incentives going more recently (translation: maybe I shoulda waited?).

bigfur · February 2005

As an auto body instructor once said to me "In my left hand i have coulda, woulda, and shoulda in this hand, and in my right i have a pile of dog dung. Whats the differance?" I never thought those comments would stick with me like they have! HAHA

jerrywimer · February 2005

Yep. I figured it works about the same way with vehicle purchases as with computer upgrades (I used to be a hard core gamer / tech geek and am still a computer programmer, so I had a bit of experience with THAT area, anyway). That being, you can wait forever for the "next big thing" to come down in price, and there'll always be something else better coming, or you can buy the best you can afford for your needs when you need it. So I ended up with the Silvy instead of the Av.

BTW, dog-dung stinks. Coulda, woulda, and shoulda don't.

txyank1 · February 2005

I had an X-cab when I had my carport built. The builder wanted to make it 20' so he wouldn't have to special-order beams. I told him I wanted it 22', the truck won't be parked right up against the garage door! He had to measure, didn't beleive the truck was that long.

jerrywimer · February 2005

That's funny. I know it isn't hard to believe when you drive it, especially when you have to maneuver it around in a tight spot! :P

disappointed3 · February 2005

Good luck getting GM to acknowledge there is a problem with this at all. I bought an 04 in June 2004, and at 800 kilometres the transmission started clunking from 2-3 on the upshift, and 3-2 on the downshift. The TSB is 01-07-30-042A. My advice, sell the piece of junk asap. I am going to arbitration with mine, as the noise is not acceptable, and neither the dealer nor GMC itself want to take any responsibility for it. They cover themselves by saying that "This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted."

gordy1 · February 2005

I purchased an 05 GMC Yukon XL, on Dec 27. I called the dealer, and was told to bring it in ,for a road test. They agreed that there was a whine. They told me to drive it 1000 miles ,to astablish a wear pattern, so they could make the proper adj.I flattly told them no. They tried to make the adj,made it worse. They replaced the ring & pinion, made it worse. They replaced the complete housing. I now have my vehicle back, after 32 days, with the same whine. They now say that they have gone far as they can, GM won't let them try any more. I love the truck, but the whine is driving me crazy. Gordy

pyromonkey · February 2005

I have a 2000 chevy silverado and i want to install power windows and power, heated mirrors. has anyone done this before? i getting the door skins, regulators and mirrors but im worried about the wiring. particularly with the heated mirrors. does anyone have heated mirrors on a truck with manual a/c? or do i have to convert to the actual temp. guage a/c? also, any place besides dealer anyone has found to have wiring for this kind of work. any help would be appreciated. thanks, phil

tjo · February 2005

I am thinking about purchasing another Silverado 2005 5.3 gas 3.23 rear end

The one I have now is a 99 5.3 gas 2wd 3.42 rear-end

With a recent trip back east (no trailer) I got 20-21 mpg (2 people with back of Extcab full) at "highway" miles/hr. "No one passed us"...

I do have a small "race trailer" I pull level ground 80 miles round trip. Trailering vs non-trailering is 10/90 ie 90% of the time this is my "driver ride"

Now the question: I was planning to purchase the new 2005 5.3 gas 2wd with a 3.23 which will give me max "driver" mpg... I think the 3.23 which is rated just 1,000 lbs less then the 3.73 and still at a max of 7,300 Max trailer weight (8,300 with the 3.73) will be Just fine with my 3000 lb trailer,,,

The dealers, since the 3.23 are "hard to find" are trying to switch me to the 3.73 saying that the MPG will be LESS the 1 MPG difference... (as a "driver" (no trailer)

I think this is TOTAL bogus. I have not heard of any 3.73 getting over 18MPG . I get close to 19 with some street and most highway (70+ mph) on a routine basis. I think I will be VERY unhappy with a 3.73 MPG..

Chime in: This is a Question NOT a statement

thanks in advance, tom

carglow · February 2005

What "real world" mileage do you get with a 4.8 automatic Silverado?

Most of my driving is "city".

sebring95 · February 2005

My 5.3L 3.73 4x4 Tahoe will get 20-21mpg on all highway trips. Usually averages around 19mpg for mainly highway driving. Throw in idling, winter fuel, and around town trips, and 15mpg is about the worst it gets unless I'm towing.

It's obvious the 3.23 will do the best on fuel, and considering you rarely tow, I think I'd look for one. 1mpg might be the actual difference, or maybe 2mpg. Regardless, over 100k miles you're talking about saving 250-500 gallons of fuel. I can't think of a reason to burn that fuel if the 3.23 will do everything you want. And it will.

joe29001 · February 2005

My '03 Regular Cab, 4.8, 5 Speed, 3.73, 4x4 consistently got 18+ MPG and my '04 Regular Cab, 5.3, Auto, 3.73, 4x4 also gets a consistent 18+ mpg. This is typically mixed highway & city driving. I can't imagine that a 3.23 would be much if any better on fuel and you would definitely sacrifice performance. I've had trucks with gears from 3.06 to 4.10 and I've never regretted going with lower gearing (even 4.10's), but definitely regretted buying the 3.06 equipped truck.

ghislain · February 2005

2003 Silverado 5.3 Ex Z71.
Haev not driven much in last five months; took it out for a spin on highway yesterday brake were real mushy and the emergency brake just goes to the floor and does not even slow the truck down. Are there any TSB's on this as it certainly seems to be very common,
I am going in on to the shop on Thursday and expect the usual routine of "this is normal.

ghislain · February 2005

Just found this while researching my Brake problems; it is a little long but well worth the read, Has anyone heard of or tried the mud flap kit. would love your comment on this one
Thanks and please read on

'02 Chevy Silverado, Brake Eater

Q: My 02 Chevy Silverado K1500 eats the right rear brakes. The truck has only 43k miles and Im now on my third set of rear brakes. I had to replace the right rear brake rotor at 18k because I didnt hear the brake pads grinding and it damaged the rotor. The truck didnt even make it to 30k miles when the right rear brake was worn out again. Now with 43k I am looking at another brake job on the rear. The front brakes look like new and the left rear was never more then 75% worn, but was replaced each time when the right rear brake was replaced. The mechanic says this is a problem with GM trucks and that it doesnt matter what brand of brake pads I have put on it will still wear. Whats the deal? Doesnt GM know how to build trucks that dont eat up brakes?!

A: Oh yes, that infamous right rear brake pad problem. GM has had a problem with the rear brakes on their light duty trucks. There is a fix. The ALLDATA Information System shows GM Technical Service Bulletin # 00-05-23-005B, which to simply describe is a mud flap kit. This kit addresses rapid brake pad wear problem that is found on most GMC and Chevy trucks made from 99 to 04. The right rear brake caliper and pads are located in such a manner that road dirt flies right into the brake pads. This steady diet of dirt causes the brakes pads to wear out really fast. The GM mud flap kit is installed to block bombardment of road dirt and debris that is causing the brake pads to wear out so quickly. The GM kit part number is 15765007 and is pretty easy to install. Before your next brake job I would suggest installing the mud flat kit. I think if you check with your dealership they be very agreeable to install the mud flap kit.

txyank1 · February 2005

I got 16 to 16.5 weekly and 22 to 23 highway with my '99 4.8 w/3.42 gears. Only slightly less with my '01 5.3. I would never go higher than the 3.42's. I even get close to 20 (hit 20 once) highway on my much heavier Avalanche with 5.3 and 3.73 gears.

vaughn4 · February 2005

I know how you feel! They had the local area rep drive my truck and he had the gall to tell me he heard no noise; before it was that the whine is normal and ALL GM trucks have it at some speed and most people just don't realize they have the noise. Now it's that they hear nothing. I've had all kinds of vehicles and have to honestly say GM's warranty is the pits and the GM people just don't care! Make the sale and forget any decent service after the sale or customer satisfaction. And they wonder why sales are down. They refuse to do anything at all! I'll just deal with the whine for a year or two after then it's gone. This was my first GM and will also be my last!!! Here's a wake up call to GM: Build them right or service them after the sale to make it right!!! By the way my truck has 2200 miles on it and now they are ordering the frame for the driver's seat back because it's already busted.

Question to all: Since GM says the whine is normal, do you folks out there have a whine?

brandon30263 · February 2005

I am having the same problem with my brakes lights. Has anyone else had the same problem, or any ideas of what else to do.

brandon30263 · February 2005

I am having the same problem, when I turn the climate control to cold it blows hot air (when i just use the vent). AC is not that cold either.

nb2169 · February 2005

"...I think this is TOTAL bogus. I have not heard of any 3.73 getting over 18MPG . I get close to 19 with some street and most highway (70+ mph) on a routine basis. I think I will be VERY unhappy with a 3.73 MPG.. "

FWIW- I just purchased a 2004 Siverado regular cab short box 4X4 with the 5.3l V-8 and the 3.73:1 rear gear. I live in Michigan, so I weight my rear with about 500 pounds of bagged sand for the winter. I commute 114 miles a day round trip to and from work, virtually all of it expressway driving. Depending on my speed, I average between 19.3 mpg and 21.5 mpg. The low end of the speed range is 55 mph and the high end is 70mph. Considering that this truck is 4 wheel drive and probably weighs in at around 4000 pounds, I think the mileage is fantastic.

nb2169

mach92 · February 2005

I have a 04 Silverado Ex-Cab Z71 3.73 that on a normal week of driving I would get about 16.3 MPG. Most of that is highway driving (around 65 mph) for approx 40 miles a day. Since I bought my truck I have put a K&N airfilter and a flowmaster 50 cat back dual exhuast system with 2.5" dia pipe and 3" tips on it. Now my milage seems to have gone down to around 16 MPG. On a recent road trip about 300 miles total of 75 mph driving I only got 16.4 MPG on the highway. I have read many other posts where everyone seems to get around 18-20 MPG with there trucks, anyone having any advice on whats wrong with mine. (I don't accelerate hard off the line.) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

jerrywimer · February 2005

For my 2004 Silverado Z-71 EC SB, purchased in early October:

Lowest - 12.5 mpg, (battery discharged sitting on dealer lot, dealer jumpstarted the truck, gassed it up, then let it run for nearly two hours at idle to make sure the battery was still good and had a good charge)

Highest - 19.2 mpg, 10% city / 90% highway, ALWAYS at or below speed limits, late fall. Not bad considering the truck isn't broken in yet, cool temperatures, driving part of the time with defroster / A/C on.

Current (winter) average - most commonly between 17.8 and 18.5 mpg. Same mix as I obtained the highest number for so far, but much colder average temperatures, running auto climate control / heat more often.

Long trip average - 17.5 mpg. Not bad at all, since I was driving a minimum of 5 over the speed limit in late November in hilly interstate terrain. Speeds were consistently between 70 and 80 over the whole trip.

Once I change to synthetic oil, temperatures come back up, and the truck gets broken in I expect to consistently see greater than 19 mpg on my daily drive (or in other words, at least a 1 mpg improvement in most driving situations, and giving me greater than 18 even on long highway trips where I push the speed up a bit).

I can't vouch for others' experiences with this combination of engine and gearing. But with my own driving style I find this truck to be much more frugal with the fuel than I expected when I bought it, and in line with the numbers on the window sticker (possibly a bit better once broken in).

Edit: Forgot to mention that these averages were manually calculated and kept in a log that I keep with the truck. The DIC usually indicates anywhere from .5 to almost 2 mpg higher than I calculate by hand too, in case anyone out there just uses it to track their mileage (so figure to add at least .5 to my numbers above to compare to your numbers if so

).

z71bill · February 2005

1999 5.3L X-cab Z-71 - 3.73 285 75 16 tires

I have always averaged between 15-16 MPG in around town driving

On highway trips I get almost (but never) 20 MPG

I normally put the cruise on 79 MPH - unless the traffic is flowing faster - normally don't go much over 85 MPH.

The MPG calculations do NOT adjust for the larger tires because I saw no drop in MPG after putting the larger ties on.

My next truck will have the lowest gearing offered (4.1 I think)

mkempke · February 2005

I have a 2002 GMC Sierra 1500 with factory 255/70R16 tires. I want to increase my ground clearance for the farm. It is a two wheel drive truck will a 265/75R16 tire fit?

mrbear · February 2005

I have a 2004 Crewcab 4 wheel drive.The oil filter it calls for is a pf 44,and i have not been able to find one.The dealers say that it is a pf46 now.The pf46 does not have the anti drain back valve,and i was wondering if i could put a longer filter on it.I have the room to put one on it,but i was wondering if it would void my warranty.Anyone out there that can help me.Thanks Bear!

jerrywimer · February 2005

According to several members on another forum I visit frequently you can use a PF59 without worrying about voiding the warranty.

rayt2 · February 2005

Way ta go Dave........Hmmmm, maybe it's time I changed mine out too. Just turned 54k & yesterday was 5 yrs. from when I took delivery, cracked a cold one and poored some on the truck to celebrate, also made the final payment on my 5 yr loan. Life is Good ! Like Tim & yourself I haven't put much credence to changing out the cabin air filter(s). I checked with AutoZone a couple of times but each time it's "we have to order it for ya" so no hurry on my part. LOL I refuse to pay dealer cost on those suckers.
Wonder if Tim ever got his done yet ?? Are ya listening out there Tim ??
Got the warranty replacement Westin step bars to put on when winter finally retreats but that'll be another month at least. Now I'll start putting away for the next new truck purchase down the road.

Ray T

sapman · February 2005

When I bought this truck new (2003)we were getting 15.6 mpg. Now we are struggling to get 12.1. Have been to three mechanics and changed the air filter and fuel filter twice. Not much difference in the milage. We have 3.73 rears. Any ideas about what is causing this milage drop would be helpful.

boomer1b · February 2005

Whats up? I see ya still have your truck !

Hows the Mini doing ? My 04 is pushing lots of snow and working hard. Just cracked 7k miles in 11 months. NO dealer visits or problems so far.

The next BBQ is in Oct. again. Make plans!

z71bill · February 2005

265 75 16's will fit just fine - so will 275 70 16's or even 285 75 16's

rayt2 · February 2005

Hey Boomer !

Yup, still got the truck and will for another 5 years before it's time for another. Maybe GM will have gotten rid of the piston slap by then. LOL
Planning the barbeque already, damn you guys are one hungry bunch.
I'm waitng for all that snow the weatherman keeps telling us is coming........4 p.m. here in Rockland County N.Y. and only flurries. Must be a slow news day again for these reporters.
If we get more than 6 inches the Mini is grounded since the front spoiler will start acting like a plow till it can't push no more. Looks like a day off will be in order for tomorrow.

Ray T.

pamela57 · February 2005

My neighbor/friend is wanting to sell the pickup he has been driving. He is the only owner. He bought it new in 1958. I tried using the used car page on this site to get a good idea of what the pickup is worth, but it did not go lower than 1980. Can anyone please tell me where to look on the internet?
Thank you
Pam

robkay47 · February 2005

don't know where you are but if theres any advance auto parts they do computer code scans free here in our area, I guess they figure they'll sell more parts.my trk was doing the same thing and the scan showed egr mal.funct.altho I haven't changed it yet it really runs great.Rob

dwrestle · March 2005

differences between the TBI 350 in an 87 Truck and the TBI 350 in the 88 to 95 Trucks? Also what is a 383? I'm thinking about getting an 87 Chevy 4x4(my favorite body style with a FI engine) TBI V8, it's probably a 350, with a 4 speed, but the steering column is huge, it sticks out 3 feet(not really but probably not much less that 3 feet) from the dash, it's not a tilt column, what can I do, can I chop it down or should I just by an aftermarket shorter one. Thank you.

dryflyline · March 2005

thanx will check them out

dryflyline · March 2005

i got a 99 gmc sierra classic 1500. made in the usa, but sold to canada.now i know on some vehicles you can push the dome override switch 4 times and it shuts them off. in mine it doesnt. now i know in canada it is required to have lights on all the time, but here you dont. anyone know if there may be a different way to override my daytime runners?

boomer1b · March 2005

To disable the DRLs on the OBS trucks. Remove DRL fuse from the fuse center on the left side of the dashboard.

Not sure of the #. 14? But it will be marked DRL.

Note: If you have fog lights....They will also be disabled.

Also check out http://www.lightsout.org

txyank1 · March 2005

The TBI 350 in the '87 is the same as the one in the '88. They were pretty much the same until the Vortec in '96, but for some reason the HP dropped in '93 (I think that was the year).
I believe a 383 is a "stroked" 350. Maybe a 400 crank being used? That '87 could be a 350, or could be a 305(DOG!)

boomer1b · March 2005

Good thing your down there where theres NO snow !

The southern tier of NY (your old stompin' ground) is getting LOTS of snow!

whatsachevy · March 2005

Try setting the emergency brake just slightly. Just push it down until you hear the first click. Brakes won't be on enough to drag and this seems to work on most mid-late 90's models before the dome override.

rchapman27 · March 2005

The owners manual states 5W-30 is the best, but does anyone know which company from experience runs better in 2005 chevys (Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline, etc) ?

dryflyline · March 2005

best advice i can give is ask the dealer what they use.i have used either chevron, or kendall synthetic blend.

dwrestle · March 2005

I drove it, I really liked it, it took off like a rocket to about 40 mph, but it was pretty weak everywhere else, but not to bad. I was wanting to trade my much nicer 87 Jeep Cherokee(the truck is rough and very rusty above the wheels and behind the cab bad) for it because I like those body styles so much, but they told me they could sell the truck fast and the jeep would sit on the lot for a while. He's probably right.

The 305 would be sweet with vortec heads, a little higher compression ratio, some headers exhaust, throttle body spacers, k&n stuff and all the government crap ripped out(cats, and smog stuff). It's no better than the 4.3 in stock form, but it's no worse either and it's a V8.

dch0300 · March 2005

Try this...
www.manheimgold.com
-David

chrisducati · March 2005

we have a 2004 short bed with the V6/5speed. Every 3000 miles the change oil lite comes on. How do I reset the lite. It says to do some combo of pressing the information button in the owners manual. Where is the info button? Yes I am clueless!

boomer1b · March 2005

See pg. 5-24 in your owners manual

1. Turn ignition key to the run position with engine off.

2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds. The oil life message will flash while resetting.

3. Turn key back to the off position.

You should be all set. If not try it again !

z71man1 · March 2005

Hi, Im new to these Forums. I see that there are alot of exsperienced Chevy people in here. Has anyone here used Royal Purple Auto Trans fluid in thier 99 or newer chevy silverado 4x4? How did you get all the old fluid out? And How do you get it all out of the Torque converter? Does your chevy like the Royal Purple? Thanks for the help.

ronb6 · March 2005

Hi all. I recently got a 2000 chevy silverado ext cab short bed with V6. This board looks alot more friendly than some of these other boards, so I thought i would say something. I response to some questions about the in cabin air filter, I thought I would have to order them too, but I found them on the shelf at Advanced auto for about 25.00 for both of them (comes in a pak of two). Also a question, my front end creaks when going over bumps. Could be springs? Also could this be in a TSB? Thanx, Ron.b

obyone · March 2005

There is a tsb out for awhile on the squeaking over bumps cause by the spring insulator.

Suspension - Front Coil Spring Noise

Bulletin No.: 99-03-08-002B

Date: May 06, 2004

TECHNICAL
Subject:
Front Suspension Coil Spring Noise (Install New Coil Spring Insulator)

Models:
1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2WD 1500 Series
1999-2004 GMC Sierra 2WD 1500 Series Models

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-03-08-002A (Section 03 - Suspension).

Condition

Some owners may comment on front suspension noise. The noise may be described as a "bong" or "clunk" noise. The noise may be more noticeable when driving slowly over bumps or backing the vehicle out of a driveway.

Cause

The front coil spring contacting the frame may cause this condition.

Correction

A new front coil spring insulator has been developed to correct this condition. Install a new insulator (1) to the top of both front coil springs. Refer to the Front Suspension subsection of the appropriate Silverado and Sierra Service Manual for coil spring removal/installation procedures.

This new insulator replaces any existing coil spring insulators. Remove and discard the existing insulator before installing the new insulator.

picklesorvie · March 2005

The insulators on our 2004 Silverado were replaced. We still have the noise. Now they
are replacing the steering gear box. Hopefully
that repair will take care of the front-end noise.
Orville

txyank1 · March 2005

I guess! Winter just won't go away. My Dad and Sister are still up there. Although my Sister says she can't figure out why she's still there! Maple Festival coming up in just a few weeks. (1st weekend in April I think).

Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

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