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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

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Comments

  • texsuntexsun Posts: 23
    I had been running 265/75/16s on a 99 GMC Sierra on the stock rims with no problems. My daughter now owns the truck (116,000 miles) and just put Liberator 265/75/16s on and loves them. I just went with Liberator 285/75/16s on stock rims on my 02 GMC 1500HD (71,500 miles) and am happy so far. :shades:
  • country00country00 Posts: 5
    Thanks for the reply. Is your 99 2WD? I was getting tired of all the tire places telling me that the only replacement for this truck was the 255/70/16, I finally just put those on yesterday. I ended up with BFG Long Trail T/As. So far they seem to ride pretty good. I still agree with you that I should have just went with the larger tire. I don't care for all the wheel well look. I guess next time.
    Thanks again for the reply.
  • tiger10tiger10 Posts: 46
    when it comes to overall performance which is a better buy, Sierra or Silverado?
  • hdlovehdlove Posts: 5
    be careful- I had a 2001 1500 ext. cab long bed 2wd that had the fuel sending unit go south. I could have a full tank fresh from QT, and turn out of the parking lot and the darn thing would flip to Empty. Tap on the brakes again and it comes back. I also noted on my 2001, and the 2003 that I recently traded for a 2005 3/4 ton, that the guage reads off on the first half- If I had a 3/4 tank, I could still put about 20 gallons in. I would achieve about 100 miles or so by a 3/4 tank, so that would mean that I only used about 9 gallons. I never worried about it, and my new 3/4 ton seems to read right on. I'm loving it as of now, and I am even getting better gas mileage out of the 6 liter V8 than my 5.3! I never got above 12.5 mpg whether I was going 80 or 45. It really irked me. At least in the HD I can justify the crappy mileage for the towing and handling of the truck. Very pleased. GM told me that the sending unit was one piece- around $800, so I just traded the truck for the '03 and put the money into the new one.
  • hdlovehdlove Posts: 5
    GMC is the Caddy of trucks, and I have found that they are priced slightly higher for the same basic truck. If you use the truck for work, I strongly recommend a 3/4 ton for your next purchase. With the rebates lately, I got $4500 off and was able to buy it cheaper than a comparable 1/2 ton truck. A friend thinks that the GMC's are put together better, but I have seen same POA's on them off the sticker.
  • hdlovehdlove Posts: 5
    I HIGHLY recommend the Bridgestone Dueler AT 265 75/R16. I have had two pairs of them, and both have netted 50K or better. I bouth them at Firestone, and purchased the lifetime balance/rotate and had it done around every 7000 miles. Now I had the LT version, Load C. DONT BUY THE P-METRICS IF YOU TOW. You will be very unhappy. I had a set of Kelly Springfields that kept blowing sidewalls. Problem- Passenger/metric tire. weak sidewall and load rating. Solution- Dueler AT. They are a great tire. Most recently I put firestone Destinations on it b/c I was trading soon. They did fine as well, but I did get the LT and load C. Now I have a 2005 3/4 ton, and it has Bridgestone something arothers, load E. Time will tell of their durability. I never noticed a huge change in mileage or accuracy of the speedo. The larger tires really do beef up the look.
  • hdlovehdlove Posts: 5
    I have gone through 3 radios on my 03. CD player related.
    rattle/squeak from under dash, never able to fix. Drove me nuts.
    driver speaker went out.
    blower fan was starting to make noise
    steering shaft issue
    transmission hesitated a bit off dead stop
    front shocks at 38K- Chevy did replace them after I would not go away.
    Breaks have been WONDERFUL. No complaints there.
    passenger side of AC control display- where the blue and red are displayed, went out. Only way to fix is to replace entire control, $245 plus labor.
    tailgate cables, replaced them with old style, never followed up on new stainless ones.
    various rattles and squeaks.

    I don't think this 2003 was built as well as my 2001. I have had more sample defects and things that just annoy you than on the 01. I do manage, however, to put 25K or so on per year, so I tend to wear them out pretty quick. the 03 was two years old and riding like a 10 year old truck. I just traded it on April 30th for a 2005 3/4ton HD with the 6 liter V8, and I seem to be getting better mileage already. I don't understand it, but I guess this engine works less for the same buck. I have been happy overall with them, and I tow quite a bit- heavy job trailers, bobcats, cargo trailers, lumber, etc, and the foreign trucks just can't compete with tow power and stability for heavy loads. I would, however, buy the Nissan Titan in a New York Minute if they made a 8' bed.
  • hdlovehdlove Posts: 5
    I just bought a 2005 3/4 ton extended cab and want to put in my aftermarket radio and speakers. I have never been impressed with GM sound systems. They suck. Moving on, I had a 01 that was really easy to get into, but this one has two screw covers about waist high at both edges of the panel, and I was wondering before I got into it if there were other changes. As far as I can remember there are screws under the open pull handle/armrest and behind the trim panel wher the inside door lever is. Do you still lift up? I just don't want to break anything. Also- does anyone know where and what size of Torx socket to get for the seat nuts? They used Torx on the damn things and standard SAE on the rear seats! Why they change things. I know it is bigger than a 16 MM, and it is the FEMALE version of a Torx socket that I need. I have tried Sears, Home Depot, Lowes, and the tool liquidators in the area
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    I've been driving GM pickups (mostly Chevy's) since around 1987. I bought new Sierras in '99 and '01. While the Base price is slightly higher because more is standard, it appeared as though if equipped exactly the same (hard to do) very little difference in price. I haven't paid much attention since '03 as GMC doesn't make a version of the Avalanche. :( Most GMC Dealers will match A Chevy Dealers deal. It pretty much comes down to personal preference. Which grille do you like better? Myself I wanted the GMC color-matched trim, and the slim chrome side moldings that I thought looked better.
  • baredoggbaredogg Posts: 32
    They are the same parts just depends wether you want a BIG BASS MOUTH or something SLICKER they come down the ling and same parts save grill fenders and hoods so pick your look cause they are the same.
  • psgpsg Posts: 72
    Resale is usually slightly better on Chevy then GMC. Same product, fickle market place.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Sierra/Silverado? The list includes the part name, GM part number, picture, cost and time it takes to R/R the part. If anyone does, email me and I'll send it to you. Being that I have no use for it now.
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    oby; I sent you an e-mail on that but have no record of it in my "sent" folder, so can't verify that it was indeed sent. Will you please verify receipt. Thanks.

    -David
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I had the "lube thing" done to the steering shaft of my 2001 Tahoe about 2 years ago under warranty. The truck is now out of warranty - and is starting to rattle again (just a little mostly on left turns)

    I have read that GM is no longer doing the lube thing but has a better fix -

    Anyone know anything about this - any chance GM will cover this cost since I am out of warranty?

    I put a set of Liberator tires on my truck - sold by Wal-mart - manufactured by Michelin (I called Michelin to verify this)

    I got the 285 75 16 size - $461.00 drive out including new stems, balance & warranty (8.25% sales tax included) I have 15K on them and they still look new.

    I would give these tires an A + for value and performance - the BFG I almost bought would have cost almost $800.

    The 285 75 16 size will fit - on stock wheels and will not rub on 2WD & 4x4 Silverado and Tahoes.
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    Bill; This is the latest TSB listed for my '02'.
    Notice the last paragraph. Apparently there is an improved part, but nowhere in the TSB is the number revealed. I have no idea if GM is replacing it in out-of-warranty trucks. Knowing GM, not likely. If you find otherwise please post it here. The TSB has complete instructions on lubrication procedures using the available kit. If you want the full version, let me know and I'll shoot it to you.

    -David

    Steering - Underhood Clunking Felt in Steering Wheel

    Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in the Steering Wheel (Lubricate the Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly) # 00-02-35-003G - (Oct 22, 2004)

    Models:
    2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
    2003 Cadillac Escalade ESV
    1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado
    2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
    2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche
    1999-2003 GMC Sierra
    2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL

    This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer/TrailBlazer EXT, GMC Envoy/Envoy XL/Envoy XUV or Oldsmobile Bravada.

    Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A for Mid-Size Utilities.

    This bulletin is being revised to notify dealers that it is acceptable to service the intermediate shaft with Lubrication Kit P/N 26098419 until sufficient inventory of the replacement intermediate shaft part numbers become available from General Motors Service Parts Operations (GMSPO). Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003F (Section 02 -- Steering).

    P.S; Here's another tidbit found on the Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions thread:

    #235 of 251 Re: Steering clunk [davidw1] by mikepersing May 01, 2005 (10:37 pm)
    Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg

    Your clunk is an intermediate steering shaft problem, (like gm told you), but they didnt tell you there is a fix. Greasing is only temporary and the clunk will come back. I just had mine replaced and so did my brother. there is a new redesigned shaft available to replace the old faulty one. Unfortunately the part is on NATIONAL back order and could take over a month to get. The dealer told me the number of trucks with the bad part is enormous, and the demand for new parts is too. So you might have to wait for your part. So go to your dealer and set him straight this is a known problem to GM and they should know this, mine did. good luck.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Nope haven't received any email.
  • fishwoodfishwood Posts: 1
    Hi. Where can I find on-line parts diagrams with Chevy parts numbers - including body parts: 2000 & 2002 Silverados? THANKS.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    what in particular are you looking for?

    I have it printed out and can get some #s for you if needed.
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    Z Bill,

    Same here,had the shaft done in warranty and now out of warranty clunk starting to reappear. I'll see what local dealer service mgr. says about the "lube kit" or if they will go for the 2nd replacement shaft. Just made last payment on truck in April, go figure it's time for things to start running up a tab again.

    After seeing GM & Ford get reduced to "Junk" classification on stock it's no wonder their having problems selling and keeping customers.

    Ray T. :shades:
  • shiftlessshiftless Posts: 40
    If you use the "Lube Kit", scrap the lube they include with the kit and replace it with a good wheel bearing grease. The thicker grease will provide the required "Space Filler" for a much longer time. The grease included in the kit I purchased (for about $15) was a high pressure lube typically used for chassis lubrication and much too thin for the steering shaft splines.

    Ed
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    Ed,

    What's the point of the "kit" if you scrap the included lube? Or is there an applicator that you need to do the job included and will it work with a heavier grease? :confuse:

    Ray T.
  • shiftless1shiftless1 Posts: 9
    The kit includes a very special plug which makes it possible to push the new grease through the spline. Using the syringe included with the kit, the heavier grease and a little more effort, the operation was quite painless and effective. The instructions in the kit were straight forward and helpful. The plug and syringe can be used again so the cost of the kit is a one-time-expense.

    Ed
  • baligbalig Posts: 1
    Is it possible to get an active center diff for the 242 transfercase? That is one that can be electronically controlled. It can be open or locked as in most 242's, and partially locked by clutches, like a 246 transfercase but fulltime 4WD.
    Or is there any simple way to make one? The electronic controls pose no great difficulty.
    I have been using a 241C, compete in the vehicle and would prefer to have partial locking of the center diff depending on brake pressure, steering angle etc but need the fulltime 4WD that the 246 doesn't have.
    I need it to fit a 32 spline transmission shaft (th400, 4L80e)
    Or does anyone know who knows these New Venture (New Process) transfer cases inside out?
    Keith
  • pinnpinn Posts: 7
    can anyone out there with a 2001 silverado 4x4 extended cab with the 4.8 l automatic engine tell me if they have tried installing the poweraid throttle body spacer and the poweraid air induction system tell me if they have noticed a change in they're mpg and overall power or is this company just feeding us a bunch of crap like some aftermarket suppliers i have installed 33 inch tires recently and i am considering buying these products to make up some of the mpg loss that comes with bigger tires and if not offer some real solutions?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Forget the poweraid. I think its in the same catagory as the tornado. Can't think of anything off hand to increase your mpg to compensate for those tires. Well maybe an egg behind the gas pedal.
  • texsuntexsun Posts: 23
    Country00, sorry it took me so long to get back to you, I've been off the net the last two weeks. Anyway, it's a 2WD. The BFG Long Trails T/As are a good tire. As to the Liberator, my Dad thought they were made by Michelin also, but they are made by BF Goodrich out of Ft Wayne, IN. There is a recall on a batch made in a two week period, to include BF Goodrich, Liberator and Uniroyal brands. See the note below I pulled off of Google.

    The recalled tires have Department of Transportation tire identification numbers which begin with DOT BF and end with the last four digits 1504 or 1604. The DOT codes are found on the inner or outer sidewall of the tire just above the wheel rim and are printed in small type (less than half an inch tall). There are no issues with tires manufactured outside of these DOT weeks. The weeks are the 15th and 16th week of this year.

    obyone - as to the Tornado, you guys told me not to buy it a while back, but I already had. I posted that I have seen a 2 mpg increase both city and hi-way since installing it. Still getting 14 city/16 hi-way, no change in driving habit, still love to listen to the Flowmaster....does it work for every vehicle, can't say, but it sure worked on mine. I mounted it right behind the air mass sensor. At $42.00, it paid for itself a while back with today's fuel prices.

    Later - Texsun
  • flyfshrflyfshr Posts: 1
    The passenger seat bracket has stopped functioning. It doesn't catch anymore, just goes all the way back. I'm trying to locate a replacement but need a diagram or part number. I have a 1998 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab. Anyone able to point me in a direction to locate this? Any assistance greatly appreciated.
  • pinnpinn Posts: 7
    you guys think there is any benefit to getting my exhaust system upgraded to a 3 inch catback system by magnaflow performance wise and fuel efficiency i'm hoping some body has had it done and could give me some input ?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Other than the sound and maybe the looks of the tip can't figure on getting any better gas mileage with the loss of lowend torque. If you look at an exhaust system, the major component that creates back pressure is your catalytic converter and NOT your muffler or non-mandrel bends. Cut those out and replace with straight pipes and you've removed most of the restriction. Course again, you would lose some amount of lowend torque. And since the Silverado is no torque monster, I'd give it serious consideration before doing it. You would probably fail emission testing, then again around my parts we don't have emission testing.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    obyone - as to the Tornado, you guys told me not to buy it a while back, but I already had. I posted that I have seen a 2 mpg increase both city and hi-way since installing it. Still getting 14 city/16 hi-way, no change in driving habit, still love to listen to the Flowmaster....does it work for every vehicle, can't say, but it sure worked on mine. I mounted it right behind the air mass sensor. At $42.00, it paid for itself a while back with today's fuel prices.

    Hey I'm glad it works for you. I had it installed in four company vehicles ( 2 Fords and 2 Nissans) with no improvement in mileage or power. You're getting 14/16? Hmmm I used to get 15/19 and I had a 2WD too with the 5.3 and 3.73.
This discussion has been closed.