Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

noobie1 · July 2005

I've had the 3M stuff on my truck since Sept '01'. Put it on myself. Guaranteed for four years, so it's probably due to be replaced, although it doesn't look all that bad considering the abuse. Not the slightest nick in the paint, and it's been whacked pretty hard (infernal material trucks!). No fading of paint or peeling as suggested here, and I live in the Mojave. The only negative in my view is its inability to polish to a high gloss. I understand some don't like the look, but that's a matter of taste. There are many on-line sources. Google "Scotchguard Paint Protection Film". I got mine here:

http://www.xpel.com/

-David

fitzie2 · July 2005

Thanks for the tips. I myself like the natural lines of the truck and didn't what to alter them. I also like a chip free paint finish. Although I like the cost of the bug shield the tape seems the only option ($450 ,,,ouuch). Consumers were saying that the early versions of the 3m tape was faulty but many are now saying that the improvements are better. My local dealer here is offering LLumar as the best option and the tape carries a lifetime warrenty. Im thinking of having the hood done first to see how I like the product. Then have the fenders and lower front grill done later. Still shopping for a better price though.

noobie1 · July 2005

-BTW; I recently drove through wet tar creating a major problem; thoroughly coating wheel wells, rocker panels from wheel to wheel and aft of the rear wheel. Tried Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover without success; the stuff might be effective on small areas but not on a job this big. Ended the problem using the new word search feature of this sight (THANK YOU EDMUNDS!) and found a guy who had success using hand cleaner. So I bought a can of Go-Jo (without the grit) and WHOA!, what a miracle. For someone as meticulous as I am about car care it was just a huge relief. I applied it with a medium stiff brush giving time for the chemistry to work (five to ten minutes). Went over it again, scrubbing with the same brush and then, this the good part, hosed it off with a spray nozzle. It' very effective and I can't see that it does any damage to the paint, though it undoubtedly removes paint protection. I also found talk of Dupont Prep-Sol but haven't tried it so can't compare. Hope this information comes in handy for someone.

-David

noobie1 · July 2005

Knowing what I know now, if my truck were new today, I would do the hood and rocker panels, plus the area behind the rear wheels at a highth even with the top of the bumber. These areas receive a lot of abuse and I have no doubt the 3M stuff would prevent chipping.

-David

ryanbab · July 2005

I had my truck covered from top to bottom in the wet tar (road construction in rain). It was nasty I used the prepsol and the tar just wiped away so easy. Only thing it also strips the wax so I had to rewax when I was done. Took me about 2 wks to remove all the tar. What a PITA

rayt2 · July 2005

Not gonna make it your way this year. Campsite was full when I tried to book for end of August @ Long Sault across from Ogdensburg border bridge. Plus two litters of pups due within a week of each other sometime next week.
I'm actually releaved since the cost of gas has gone sky high and still climbing. Two trips to Canada towing a 28' travel trailer with the truck getting 8 to 10 mpg.........well do the math and ya get the picture.
Maybe I need to buy a farm and plant soy for conversion to bio-deisel, then I can get a new truck with the Duramax and make my own fuel.................. :P

geo9 · July 2005

Bummer.......................Oh well........i guess I will see ya in Oct. at
the annual plowhead BBQ in Poughkeepsie !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

stoneg · July 2005

Geo,
I had a guy coming over to buy my 97 Tacoma on Friday, and didnt show. It was paid for, so I didnt need to worry about the negative equity. I planned on getting the 2500 on Saturday, with 35k from the C.U.and the other 7k from the proceeds of the yota. I just put the 7k on the ole credit card, and floated it there until this past Monday when I finally sold it. It took exactly 10 days to sell it. So no finance carges. Damn near everyone gets credit card offers for 0% for???? Put it on one of those, and really save some money by paying it off in 30 days. My advice was that if you have finally found the exact vehicle you want, and in my case there was only 1 GM (Chevy or GMC) like it in 7 states, go get it. Find a way. Hell, I left Tallahassee @ 4:15am and drove to Sarasota FL in the middle of Hurricane Dennis to get mine. No regrets.

Kirstie_H · July 2005

Don't forget tonight's member-to-member chat - it's open mic night, so come and discuss whatever's on your mind.

6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET. Drop by for live chat with other members. Hope you can join us!

kirstie_h

minniescar · July 2005

Ive got a 97 silverado that has been driving me nuts for a week, a week ago i went to drive my truck and i drove to town ( about 5 miles ) and it drove fine. Then i parked the truck for about an hour and then i went to drive to work , i got about 6 miles and the truck started to sput and sputter. Every now and then it would kick in and drive fine but it just kept dieng on acceleration so i figured my best bet was to try to get it home and switch vehicles.The truck would idle fine but as soon as you put it in gear if you attepted to give it any gas it just dies so i made it home just idleing.

So far ive checked for trouble codes and there are none, ive checked the TPS, MAP, MAF, and the AIC sensors just to make sure they where getting the right voltage i even did a back probe while the truck was running. My spark plug wires are new and i pulled my spark plugs and they look good however they do have a slight wet appearance but just barely. ( they dont look like the engine is flooded ) Ive changed the distributor cap and rotor button , the fuel filter, ignition coil, and the TPS ( even though it didnt give me a trouble code it seemed a likely suspect ) Ive also checked the pcv valve, and the air filter all have checked good. Ive even removed the fuel filter and placed an inline gauge to see if the fuel pump was putting out enough pressure and it checked good but still if i give the truck any gas or stomp the pedal the truck just acts like i cut off its fuel or fire supply and it dies. From what i understand the ignition timing is not adjustable , is this correct? I looked at the distributor and all i see is one tie down bolt and i noticed you can rotate the distributor cap housing is it supposed to be that way? ( ive been told it is and the computer adjusts the timing ) Anybody have any idea what this could be causing this?

oshawa · July 2005

Clean the MAF out with a good carb cleaner only....During acceleration the computer is probably getting mixed signals usually caused by dirty MAF sensor wires.

This is a good site for help on cleaning MAF: http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/cleanmaf.htm

Also is there any fuel leaks coming from around the sending unit?

Hope you find the problem.

oshawa · July 2005

Also a good check is to un plug your MAF wires and start the truck. If it is the MAF you will notice the difference big time.

minniescar · July 2005

Would the MAF not throw out any trouble codes if it was dirty and getting mixed signals?

oshawa · July 2005

What I think is going on is the MAF sensor is dirty, the engine doesn't see anything wrong with this so there probably wouldn't be any trouble codes. When you accelerate your MAF is probably sending a signal to run the engine at an idle speed as the MAF is not reading as much air going by because it is dirty. Cleaning it takes no time at all...just follow the proper steps.

Good luck.

oshawa · July 2005

I know it may be hard to believe, but this little sensor is very tempermental....I didn't believe it at first.

Your symptoms are pointing to a dirty MAF. get a good can of carb cleaner, thats all you need to use to clean it as it is alcohol based and evaporates very fast.

minniescar · July 2005

ill try it this evening hell ill try anything , ive been sitting under the hood of this truck every eveing for 5 days now and nothing has panned out.........

On a side note something i read on the site i was reffered to on how to clean the sensor got me to thinking about something. My truck has 198K on its odometer but the engine and injection system where completely replaced 20k ago ( original engone was a 305 now its a 350 ). Prior to me purchasing it a freind of mine had all this work done , he also had the transmission rebuilt 3 times, thats how i got the truck. The fourth time the tranny went out he parked the truck in the yard he said he wasnt sinking another dime into the truck and he went out and bought a brand new ford F250. This buddy of mine hauls scrap metal and every bpdy who knew him always assumed the tranny going out was due to him over loading the truck then slapping a trailer behind it , but maybe not, the site that tells how to clean out the MAF sensor mentions how if the Maf sensor is reading wrong it can tear up a transmission since the computer doesnt know when to shift, i wonder if thats the case.

needless to say I bought the truck with the tranny messed up and i had it fixed after my buddy gave up on it.

rich37 · July 2005

Just bought a GMC 2004 1500 Sierra and would like to install my CB However, this truck has buckets and a center console that goes right up to the dash. Not much room to put the CB! I also have a trailer brake controller to install, but I could just leave this unit on top of the console when I use it (I have the controller on a disconnect as I use it in several trucks) How have you installed your CB with this cab configuration?? Thanks

minniescar · July 2005

I tried cleaning the MAF sensor last night and i got no results, the sensor itself actually looked clean to begin with but i cleaned it anyway, the engine still dies on acceleration after the cleaning. I told a buddy of mine i would take it to a shop to have it looked at but the only problem is i would have to hire a wrecker to tow it there, anyone got any ideas

oshawa · July 2005

The only other thing I can think of is EGR system. The valve could be either stuck open or stuck closed.

Can you drive the truck fine while the engine is cold or does it sputter still?

I wouldn't take it to a shop yet. We'll figure this problem out.

txyank1 · July 2005

Or let the Government pay you for not planting whatever it is we have enough of right now.

stoneg · July 2005

I am looking to replace my grill on my 05 2500hd with a Denali grill.
I have shopped everywhere, including the dealership. Some of the ones I am finding are close, but no cigar. Putco makes one, but the area inside of the "C" in GMC is solid chrome, instead of black like the Denali. I would like it to look clean, and not a cheesy knock off. Anyone replaced theirs yet? Any ideas?
Thanks,
Stone G

geo9 · July 2005

Hey Mister.....................Gonna be heading out to your old stomping
grounds in the southern tier NY for a snowplow meet and greet in Aug.
at the local Hooters...................
The happy snow will be here soon enough !

Hows the Avalanche treating ya?.....................................

noobie1 · July 2005

I hear ya big time. Did the drivers side last week and just finished the passenger side; Total time about 4-5 hrs, much of it on my back. I've read other positive testimonies about Prep-Sol, but have not heard whether it's water soluble, which is the beauty of Go-Jo. Just hose it off. It does require a little scrubbing beforehand though.

-David

noobie1 · July 2005

minniescar, sorry it's taken so long to reply. This may seem like a stretch, but maybe not. Years ago I had the exact same problem with a '52' Chevy. Tried everything I knew to solve it. Finally, consulted my auto shop teacher who diagnosed it immediately: Vacuum advance failure.
I don't know how your ignition system works, but every gasoline engine must have a method for advancing the spark upon an increase in RPM, whether it be electronic, centrifugal, or as in the old days, vacuum. I could make some suggestions, but being completely in the dark about which method seems like a waste of time.
BTW; I know of a similar case, but not exactly, where the TPS turned out to be faulty. Hope this helps.

-David

minniescar · July 2005

I had the vacum advance problem on my old MGB a few years back and the truck does run alot like the MG did. The only problem is the 97 silverado doesnt have a vacum advance , basically there is no adjustment at all when it comes to the distributor, the computer adjusts the ignition timing so its really just a matter of making sure the distributor is inserted correctly then slapping a button and a cap on it. Im now leaning towards the fuel pressure regulator even though it was replaced 10k ago its still possible it has failed. Im really at my wits end

minniescar · July 2005

Well another possibility has been brought to my attention, last night i notied i could rotate my distributor cap ( and yes its screwed down ) and when i say rotate i mean the only thing that keeps it from doing a complete 360 is it would hit the valve covers. I called a local mechanic and he said not to worry that the ignition was self adjusting, i just mentioned it to a coworker and he said the mechanic must be on crack, who is right? The cap itself and the plate it bolts to which holds the ignition module ( is that the correct term) moves but not the cast alluminuim housing and from what i can see there isnt any locking nuts or anything other then the hold down clamp on the distributor so if this thing is moving then something serious is wrong.

txyank1 · July 2005

Hooters is NY? Is that Poookeeepski?......naaaaaah can't be. :surprise:
Very well, just procrastinating about a new one. I want one more new vehicle before I try ro retire, but don't like all the "de-contenting" that's gone in since '03. Or for that matter the extras that I don't want that are now std. Looks like I'll probably have at least another month of Employee pricing (rumor has it) to decide .

talkinshop · July 2005

Hi - new to this forum and to GMC trucks. I bought a 1999 Sierra a month ago - the gas peddle does 'stick' sometimes (not all) I mentioned it to a mechanic at work and he sprayed the 'butterfly valve' in the throttle body valve with a cleaner. Is something really awful going to happen? The notice said not to - but not why not. Do you know what the problem might be?
thanks

obyone · July 2005

There is a TSB for replacing the throttle body when sticking. Since your truck is out of warranty, I'd try cleaning it with a throttle body cleaner and a rag. If that doesn't work, you might consider replacing it.

picklesorvie · July 2005

Available today is a small part that is added to the throttle bottle when it is cleaned
that will help prevent the sticking. Our 5.3 V8 in our 2000 Tahoe was fixed
a year or so ago.

rayt2 · July 2005

I cleaned mine by hand w/rag and spray cleaner and problem has stopped. 2000 5.3 Silverado. Cleaning is much easier than GM repair charge.

Ray T.

abottorff · July 2005

hey I have the same problem w/ my 2000 silverado w 5.3, what do I clean and how do I clean it I am waaaaay out of warranty (90k miles) and what part can be put in to help solve the problem I am doing my best to ignore it but its getting a little worse I would rather clean it than replace it if I can ----- thanks.

94_chevy · August 2005

hey i have a 94 silveraodo 1500 and my speedometer or tach doesnt work but the rest of my guages do. does anyone have any ideas on what the problem might be?
thanks

bobby64 · August 2005

Ned some input on a 1994 Silverado Rear End Ratio , it has C-2 stamped on the housing, It is a 1 ton rear end on a 2500 series truck with a 5.7 CI. According to GM it will not tow over 7,000 lbs. Does any one know what the ratio on the would be? The 5th wheel has a dry wt. of 8220 lbs, If it has 3:73 instead of 4:10 would we be ok towing this camper? We do NOT climb any steep grades, Would like to know if any one knows this info.
Thank You
Bobby in Indiana

bobby64 · August 2005

Gm says its a 3:73 from the vin numbers. Dang it. 4{10 would be better.

mbest · August 2005

Hi guys, I see in past posts, some folks are able to answer questions by telling others what the codes in the glovebox mean. Is there a list printed somewhere? I'd like to figure out just what my truck has. Bought it used (1993 Silverado 1500 4X4)

geo9 · August 2005

Open up your e-mail addy in your profile.

Then can tell you where to find those RPO lists.............

Don't print it here on the open forum or the spambots might find it !

mbest · August 2005

geo9, OK- think I got it, thanks in advance M

hendrix24 · August 2005

hey everyone love the forum, i hope to get soem advice looking to buy a chevy don't know if i want z-71 2500 hd with the 6.0 or durmax, i don;t tow but do love the duramax engine so plese share experiences.

picklesorvie · August 2005

I believe there have been problems with the fuel injector system on the diesel
engines by GM.

mbest · August 2005

Traced down my numbers thanks to geo9's help. What do I got? not much. 305TBI ,4L60E, 3:42 gears. does have cab lights tho Bought her in May, put on some '05 take offs, reworked the exhaust, MSD ignition, Rancho shocks and helper springs. Savin my wifes' pennies for a crate motor!

m_boise · August 2005

I have a 2005 Z71 Crew Cab Silvie with the 5.3L V8, added a flowmaster cat-back exhaust and have been looking into the K&N Air Intake systems. Is this going to do anything? I figured since I opened up the back of the system I should open the front also. But I've seen conflicting reports on the value of this. I noticed the Z71 package included a high flow filter. Also, will this mod effect vehicle warranty? I've actually already ordered it, but after doing more research have seen some negative posts on other forums. Should I just resell it once it comes in? :confuse:

obyone · August 2005

Yep....sell it.....or buy some throttle body cleaner with it.........

How it affects warranty depends on the service manager you deal with. Best to ask him as the answers will vary. Regardless what K&N and Moss Magnuson Act says about aftermarket accessories.....it all comes down to whether the dealership you're working with agrees to it. I would hate to have to go thru a lawsuit to prove a point about an aftermarket air filter.

m_boise · August 2005

My service dept says it is OK. As far as the throttle body goes, I though K&N was a superior filter...shouldn't this keep the throttle body as clean as the stock intake system, even with the increased flow? Or does the K&N intake system cause some other problem---doesn't fit right? improper installation causing air to enter the throttle body that is not being filtered? Your comments are helpful. Also--a friend mentioned getting a throttle body spacer with helical grooves to cause incoming air to swirl---supposedly causing more efficient burn of fuel, any experience with these? Thanks.

z71bill · August 2005

The high capacity air cleaner that comes with the Z-71 package (or trailer package) is nothing more than a different air filter. When you go to replace the filter you can pick which one you want - regular of high capacity. If you look at both side by side - unless you have a microscope - you will not be able to see any difference.

K&N is a JOKE - as are all the after market air filter crap that is sold.

The adds claim UP TO 500 additional HP & 65 more miles per gallon - (or whatever)

I have seen guys dyno their cars/trucks - then add a K&N then redo the dyno - NO DIFFERENCE in HP or Torque.

The only thing they do is REDUCE THE WEIGHT (of your wallet)

But wait - they also give your engine a cool sucking sound when you step on the gas. I really think some guys HEAR that sound and really think that they are going faster.

obyone · August 2005

Throttle body spacer is also a waste of money.

K&N flows more air. Air that has been filtered thru cotton gauze and oil. It's that oil that makes things a little messy if you apply too much after washing the filter. Course the downside is that if you don't apply enough oil, you will be allowing additional contaminants into your system. Since K&N has no specific amount of oil to add to the filter nor a way to consistently apply it. I'd say you would be taking a risk of having too much or too little and both with consequences.

txyank1 · August 2005

Where the K&N DOES have an advantage is after it starts to get dirty it will continue to flow more air than a dirty stock filter. So keep a clean stock filter in. (how to assure that I don't have a clue other than putting a new one in when you probably don't need one yet.) All in all the stock intake is a pretty efficient piece. If you want to improve it you need to get cooler air, not more air.

rayt2 · August 2005

As you said COOL AIR is what really makes the difference. Unless you supercharge your not gonna get any more air into system by adding a K&N kit over the stock filters. I got the optional increased capacity filter when I ordered my truck and believe it or not I still have the stock filter in place since truck was purchased (57k so far). I thought that little indicator they attach wasn't working after the first 30k miles and pulled filter to look at it and it was same as new just a few bugs. I don't travel in dusty conditons just highway so not collecting anything but bugs.

I can't really say I gained anything with my Borla Cat-Back system either but it sure made the truck sound healthier than that stock exhaust.

Ray T. :shades:

gmtruckguy · August 2005

I just bought a 2005 silverado 1500 crew cab with the 5.3L V8. I am not sure how to figure out what transmission I have in it. I have been told they come with either an Allison or some other kind, and I'm guessing the Allison it would come with is the 4L80e. If anyone has any idea how to find out, or what transmission the 5.3L engines generally come with in the 1500's, I'm all ears.

obyone · August 2005

4L60E

Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

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