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Jeep Wrangler

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Comments

  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    This is what I was talking about when I said the tires can get into your flares when the sway bar is disconnected. You really need to disconnect the sway bar for moderate to severe off roading, and you can see the kind of axle travel this gives you.

    The pictures below show the great flex that TJ's are famous for. That spot is not difficult, but it is a good place to demonstrate flex. Thelma Jane's body is dead level, but without the good flex, she would be teetering, with her weight only on the right front tire and the left rear tire. Check the right front tire in the lower picture. It is STUFFED! If I turn the steering wheel, the tire would distort the flare, which has happened many times, but it "ain't no biggie."

    Thelma Jane has a two inch lift and 31" tires, and the tires still get into the flares, so you can see that 33" tires would really be a problem.

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?

    image

    image
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    I had that same size and a 3" lift on my XJ. They wore well. It was amazing what they would also do on snow (the AT KO has the "Snowflake" rating for sever winter driving, so when the warnings come out, your tires are legal!). I lost mileage, since the package with steel wheels was heavier than stock, and braking went up a bit. So, if mileage is an issue, I wouldn't go up to 33's.

    I'm not going bigger than that this time either, as my TJ won't fit in the garage with that much lift!

    The soft top is first for me, and since Quadratec charges the Mopar price (1300), it's going to take some time to earn that much cash back for the other projects...
  • greddengredden Member Posts: 30
    I have a 04 Sahara. I have a Rubicon Express 2" lift. I put OME shocks on a couple weeks ago. At highway speeds I get some bad wobble when I hit an uneven bump. Would a steering stabilizer help with my problem? Thanks
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It depends. Did the wobble appear after fitting the OME shocks? If so, try replacing the originals and see if the wobble disappears. Did it appear after fitting the lift? If so, did you re-center the axles? Is the trackbar tight? Finally, have you checked to see if you've shed a wheel balance weight?

    If everything else is 100% perfect, then assuming the original steering damper is worn, go ahead with a heavier duty one.
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    I'll second the suggestion of the BFG AT tires - I have them on both our Wranglers and they do fine in snow, as well as our dusty, rocky (no mud) dirt roads. I went ahead and got the 30x9.5 instead of going up to 31 inches (expense mostly) and am still very happy with them.

    Tom, it's been several years since I lost Winger, but I still think of him with sadness. It took over a year before I could think of him without real pain, and I'll always miss him. It will get less painful as time goes on. I look forward to the day when I retire because then I'll be able to get another puppy.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I'll second the suggestion of the BFG AT tires - I have them on both our Wranglers............

    How are yours wearing (I know you do a high mileage)? Mine have got 30k+ and look as though they've got at least another 30k left!
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    I have 50K on my BFG ATs(also 30"). They look to have another 15-20K left on them.
  • believebelieve Member Posts: 74
    Tom, Mac, Mtngal....
    So it's ok to up the size from 30x9.5 to 31x10.50?
    again, I'm not doing any off road....except for a little hunting.
    I called Costco to price them (31x10.50= $127 and some change each). I'll go with the extra inch as long as you all agree it's ok.....reason I say that...when I talked to the guy at Costco...he kinda gave me the attitude that I should not do the bigger tire......he said I should go with the factory size......I do know that not all these guys have a clue like you diehards do....just give me the ok....and thank you all for the help...it is very much appreciated!....Lew ">
  • believebelieve Member Posts: 74
    I do have a tiny star in the windshield...Im thinking of doing the fix myself....any reason not to?
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    You are fine with 31 x 10.50 tires. Lots of people run that size on stock TJs. Go for it.

    You are getting a lot of recommendations for the BFG All Terrains, and, as I have already said, I loved mine and would not have traded them in, except that I needed mud tires for all of the off roading that I was doing.

    You won't be sorry by going with the BFG ATs in the 31 x 10.50 size. Now, realize that the ATs are NOT good in mud. They are great in snow and for most off roading, just not good in pure mud. Nothing is good in mud, except mud tires.

    Those puppies look good, perform well, and wear great.

    Tomster
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    A lot of tire dealers try to keep you with the standard size for liability reasons. You'll be fine with 31's, though it's possible you may have to put a washer or two under the steering stops to prevent rubbing at full lock. There's plenty of information on how to do that if you search the list.

    If the tire guy gives you a problem, remind him that the Rubicon uses a 31" tire.
  • believebelieve Member Posts: 74
    Thanks everyone.....will get the larger size this week!
    Sounds like I just ordered a biggy size at McDonalds doesn't it>? :D
  • 99tj99tj Member Posts: 187
    Here's a real nice explanation how to adjust the steering stops
    http://www.4x4xplor.com/steerstop.html

    -Dan
  • believebelieve Member Posts: 74
    Wow...that's really simple!....tks!!...Lew
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The automaker said the hydraulic clutch master cylinder rod could break, which could make it difficult for the clutch to disengage when the pedal is depressed.

    LOL........difficult. More like impossible. :P
  • believebelieve Member Posts: 74
    Stopped at Costco this afternoon to have the tires done...the service guys refused to do them (just like you said Mac).
    They said I could take them off in the parking lot and bring them in and they would be permitted to mount and balance the tires....also I would still have all the benifits of the free rotations etc....but they were not permitted to take them off and put them on under company policy. I checked with national tire and battery and they said they would match the price etc that costco offers. I am considering them. I just think the jeep would look better with the larger tires. And I am impressed with the mileage you guys get on them! anyway....I'll get it done even if I have to take them off one at a time on their lot ;) also ....those tires are really nice looking...thanks to everyone for your advice!,,,Lew
  • jeff62301jeff62301 Member Posts: 310
    The guys in the tire shop at Sam's in Springfield IL loved putting the 33's on my jeep,, and i didn't hear any concern about putting on larger tires than were coming off.

    jeff

    had a great day saturday,, we did a little ( well quite a bit ) of trail clearing on Saturday morning, then ran trails all afternoon. it was the first time I had put the set of swampers on for trail riding, they were great. Still love the AT's for the hwy..
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    one reason not to fix it is that a repair may be free. Many insurance companies waive any deductables for windshield chip repairs since it saves the insurance company money in the long run of having to replace the full windshield.
  • texasjptexasjp Member Posts: 1
    if a jeep has not been driven off road, and taken care of, about how many miles can you expect to get out of it?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Assuming no oddball failures, 150-200+k is a reasonable expectation for the 4.0 engine before an overhaul is required. Barring accidents and the effects of road salt, and given the ready availability of reasonably priced mechanical parts, there's no reason a Wrangler shouldn't be kept on the road until the demise of its fuel source.

    Actually, the above is true for pretty much any modern vehicle. The main problems in the far future will be associated with electronic and plastic parts. As for mileage, it's quite usual for police vehicles to be auctioned off after 250K or so, then to be purchased for use as taxi cabs.

    Generally, if you want trouble free high mileage, do it in as short a period as possible.
  • gman1259gman1259 Member Posts: 209
    We try to dump most of ours around 60,000 miles, at lease the patrol units.

    The exceptions are the few we hold in reserve or put in an area that will not have a have hard driving demand on them (such as the administration cars for the jails and such). I have not seen any vehicle in our fleet with more then 150,000 miles on them (however, this does not mean there are not a few).

    The fact is we drive our vehicles pretty hard. They run almost 24 hours a day. Starting and stopping, going at high rates of speed, or they just sit idling for hours. Plus, having to run all the electrical equipment takes its toll on the engines and its cooling system.

    The cars could probably last longer, but they cost too much to maintain. In addition, there is a public safety issue as well. You do not want the patrol unit that is rolling to assist you when you are in danger to break down en route. This happens from time to time, fortunately, not very often.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I'm sure it varies between jurisdictions. In the last ten years I don't remember our town purchasing a brand new vehicle, it's always someone elses cast-off. Still, they don't have to go far, we're literally a one stoplight town!

    It doesn't hurt a vehicle to run 24/7 as long as gets the correct maintenance. However, the way a police patrol vehicle is used certainly pushes the envelope. It's an amazing testament to modern vehicle design that they perform as well as they do, for as long as they do.

    Going back to the original question, I think you can pretty much run a sensibly driven and maintained Wrangler for as long as you care to.
  • wpowellwpowell Member Posts: 125
    And how often do you hear people complain that the don't make vehicles--especially Jeeps--the way they used to? I, for one, am sure as hell glad they don't! I would hate to know I had to rely on my old CJ that was a rusted out bucket of bolts at 60K miles.
  • gman1259gman1259 Member Posts: 209
    Very good point...
  • crousecrouse Member Posts: 1
    I use an AC adapter regually and the cigarette lighter is bad. I checked the fuse and it is okay. How do I remove the old lighter well to replace it. I tried unscrewing it and after a few turns I cant turn it any further. I assume the wires in the back are twisting. Do I need to get behind it and remove the wires first. Do I have to disassemble part of the dash to get to it?
  • wilfulwilful Member Posts: 8
    Our 89 Wrangler has sporter doors which don't close tight. I'm a terrible mechanic, so would appreciate any detailed advice on fixing this.

    Last time here - Oct '04 - you guys gave me good advice on glass windows - which we got and like a lot. Looking forward to hearing from you experts again.

    Regards,

    Will
  • gman1259gman1259 Member Posts: 209
    Today I had to take my Sport into the shop. About a month ago, my wife was driving it and the “Check Gages” light came one. The temperature had shot up into the red. She was running the AC so she turned it off and turned the heater on high. The temperature almost immediately dropped back to normal. She drove for a while then turned back on the AC and everything ran normally.

    I have been driving the Jeep to see if it would overheat again. Today in the 91, (bumper-to-bumper) traffic the “Check Gages” light came on and the temperature had shot in to the red. I followed the same steps my wife had and again the temperature dropped to normal (almost immediately). I turned back on the AC and watched the temperature start to claim again.

    I drove the rest of the way home with the AC off. I picked up something from the house (that I need for a meeting I was going to) and took off again, with the AC on. The temperature stayed in the normal zone.

    Has anyone had this problem or heard of anyone having this problem? If so what was the out come?

    Thanks
  • wilfulwilful Member Posts: 8
    Can't help with the problem gman, but sure understand the 91 bumper to bumper mention. Some say the 405 or the 5 are the worst - but for us IE folks -it's the 91 - hands down.

    Good luck with the problem.

    Will
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Your wife did exactly the right thing in turning the a/c off. However the Wrangler, like most vehicles these days, has coolant running through the heater core all the time, so turning the heater to 'high' just changes the position of a flap in the HVAC unit and doesn't help to dissipate any more engine heat.

    Sounds as though the radiator is clogged to the point where it is just managing to handle the heat load under normal conditions. Using the a/c increases that load and you've found out what happens next.

    If you're lucky it might just need the cooling system reverse flushed, otherwise it might need flushing and a new radiator.
  • koolbreeze2koolbreeze2 Member Posts: 252
    Greetings to everyone. I have been in Florida for 6 weeks and just caught up on all postings since I left. Lots of reading. Welcome to all new (or used) Jeep owners. I was surprised by the number of Jeeps in Florida. Lots of older Jeeps in good condition. Also saw tons of chrome on Jeeps. Must be the good weather. I'm not a big fan of alot of chrome on Jeeps but any Jeep is a good Jeep. Chrome and all. Great top down weather at this time of year for Jeep owners down South. Gas was a killer on the drive back. Did not take Rosie. Drove down in my wifes Toyota. 3500 miles in my Jeep and she would be filing for divorce as I speak. Go Easy and Have Fun. John
  • rd75rd75 Member Posts: 10
    I've never owned a Wrangler before (I've had a Cherokee Classic for years) but I recently found a 95 Wrangler YJ with 74,000 miles in immaculate condition. It has the 2.5L with manual transmission. I can get it for about $6,000. I've wanted a Wrangler for years, but I don't want to regret getting the 4-banger. But the price difference is talking to me. I've already got my '01 Cherokee Classic that sucks gas around town, I'm not sure if I need another gas guzzler. The YJ drives great and seems to have a fair amount of zip around town. Any words of wisdom on the 2.5L with manual transmission? Any ways to get a little more power out of it?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    You should be able to get a TJ for the same money. Looks similar but with round headlights and a much superior suspension (coils vs. leaves).

    The I4 2.5 has less power and similar fuel consumption to the I6 4.0. Never heard a 4.0 owner that wished for a 2.5, though plenty would like to switch the other way.
  • keatskeats Member Posts: 412
    Yep, 6K is a lot of bones for a YJ. A friend of mine recently bought a 99 4.0L with 100K in good shape for $5800.
  • rhuckebyrhuckeby Member Posts: 1
    Yeah, Doesn't sound like any bargain to me either!
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    "Generally, if you want trouble free high mileage, do it in as short a period as possible."

    I guess that means I should put on as many miles as I can as fast as I can? I just gave my wife my 97 Honda. It had 12,500 on it when I bought it in 98. When I gave it to her about 3 months ago it still had under 50,000 mi. on it. I put less than 4,000 mi. per year on it and planned on doing the same with my 06 Jeep Wrangler. I might go up to 5,000 per year because I love driving my Jeep and I am sure this summer I will probably put on an additional 1,000 mi on it. That would still only take me up to 5,000 mi. per year.
  • gman1259gman1259 Member Posts: 209
    I have heard from the Jeep dealer. They tell me the fan clutch is going bad.

    I am having the clclutchthermostat and the raradiatorluid changed. $500.00..

    Only 2 years old!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I didn't mention the fan clutch (my bad) as you didn't mention not hearing it anymore. At least that makes your bill a little cheaper, a new OEM radiator would have been over $500 just for the part!

    Do make sure they do a flush and refill, rather than just a drain and refill. Change of coolant is a routine service item which you obviously have to pay for, but a replacement fan clutch isn't. Why aren't they covering it under warranty if it's only two years old.........high mileage?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    "Generally, if you want trouble free high mileage, do it in as short a period as possible."

    I guess that means I should put on as many miles as I can as fast as I can?


    Not necessarily, it's just that reliability is increased and maintenance costs are reduced on a vehicle that runs 24/7 compared to one that runs just a few thousand a year.

    If you intend to keep your Wrangler for the foreseeable future, make sure you base your servicing schedule on time as well as mileage, i.e. change your oil and filter every three months rather than at 3k miles.
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    I'd agree that $6,000 sounds like quite a bit for a YJ, even as low mileage as that. If you were in California, I'd tell you to email me - my 98 manual Sport will probably be going for something less than that (but then, it isn't pristine and it isn't low mileage). Saturday we'll renew the tags (they expired 2 weeks ago and we forgot about renewing them until last week), give it a bath and a vacuum and place the ad.

    I was going to ask mac about the thermostat as it applies to Glen's problem, but he's already gotten an answer. I had changed the thermostat on the Tacoma once, but it didn't make any difference since it had a problem with the radiator.
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    Well, I'm going to be the weird one and disagree here. I think it might be a good deal, if it's condition is really that good. When I sold my YJ, I sold it for only $1000 less than I had paid for it a few years earlier. That's because I had all the tops, plenty of options, and I took care of it. Of course, I always wished I'd kept it, from the moment I drove away after selling it. If this is going to be just a "puttering-around" Jeep, then it might be an excellent choice, rather than a high-mileage TJ that's been abused (mtngal's is an exception, a well-cared-for highway-miles truck, but they're hard to find). The TJ definitely rides better, and the top mechanisms are much better, but the YJ does have kind of a cool interior (I know, I'm weird in that I liked the lower YJ dash better for visibility) and it has leaf springs. If you're ever doing a lift, leaves rather than arms and coils makes the proposition a LOT cheaper. Just tell me it isn't a Turqoise Islander package!
    I've never owned a 2.5, but I've driven a few. They're not bad if you aren't commuting on the highway. Most of the Wrangler's issue with mileage is the shape of the body and weight (many newer SUV's are rated at about 19-21 mpg highway, even with brand-new hi-tec engines), so don't expect a 2.5 to get much better mileage than the 4.0.

    Either way, if you plan to keep it awhile and don't want to do any restoration, it might be an excellent choice. But what do I know? I looked for months for a used TJ in the $7k range, and wound up buying a six-month-old Unlimited.

    Just for kicks, everybody set your wayback machines to 1995...and read a new car review of the YJ
  • dhidhi Member Posts: 1
    is there such a thing as a power soft top for a yj or cj or tj? thanks dan
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I remember someone making a prototype but I've never heard of one in production. The Wrangler hood design doesn't lend itself to easy power operation. Side windows alone are a major problem.

    However, that doesn't mean there isn't one out there somewhere!
  • believebelieve Member Posts: 74
    Hi all.....
    You'll love this...I told you all that Costco refused to mount the BF Goodrich 31 x 10.50 ...well that was Lancaster PA.....I decided to call Harrisburg and ask them.....their answer was ....."really not busy right now and it would be a good time for you to get this done"!...so off I went on a 45 minute ride and sure enuff...they were great....the guys treated me like gold and made a few friend to boot.....I must add that the tires are GREAT!!...big diff in the ride. I want to thank you all for your suggestions....Thanks Tom...Thanks Mac...Thanks Hondagirl(mtngal) ;) Ill post a photo asap.
    Lew
  • gman1259gman1259 Member Posts: 209
    "As you didn't mention not hearing it anymore." Not hearing what? I didn’t hearing anything.

    They replaced the thermostat and flushed the cooling system.

    I have 45,200 + miles on the Jeep (the warranty lasted for 36,000). We drive too much, but the Altima has well over 60,000 + miles and it is only 3½ years old. I did get an extended warranty (on the Jeep); however, as I have found in the past, they are not worth the money they cost. I purchased an up-graded plan, but it still only covers specific things (I do not know what). When the dealer figured what the problem was they entered the item into the computer and the fan clutch came back as not covered. Figures…this will be the last extended warranty, unless some out there can convince me there is one out there worth the money.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Not hearing what? I didn’t hearing anything.

    You can usually hear the fan kick in, especially at lower speeds, as it's got quite a throaty roar.

    The only extended warranty I'd consider would be the GMPP Major Guard. It's not the cheapest, but it covers virtually all mechanical and electrical components (except for regular service items) for wear and tear as well as failure.

    GMPP MajorGuard
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    I hear you about the interior. When I was looking for a Wrangler 3-4 years ago, I initially looked at TJ's. At 6'-5" my knees/shins were hitting the bottom of the dash (bummer). ;-( The YJ's have a lot more leg room for the driver/front passenger than do the TJ's. Also, they are very simple vehicles to work on (not necessarily comparing to the TJ's here).

    My advice:

    Find one you like. If you want it and you can stomach the purchase price, buy it!!!
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    The legs hitting the dash was addressed more recently by lowering the seats (comparison between the '98 Sport and the '04 Unlimited).

    I agree that what I might not think is a good price might be an excellent price for you. Example was my (hated) Tacoma - those that have been around the Wrangler board for a long time probably remember how much I disliked it. We bought it for a good price compared to what others were paying (something like $200 over dealer's invoice). After a month I wouldn't have paid 2 cents for it - it was definitely NOT worth what we paid for it.

    On the other hand, I got what appeared to be a lousy deal on the '98 Sport - it was an unwind and I paid something like $500 over invoice. That would have been a decent deal at the time for a new one, but this one was technically a used vehicle, so some would say I over-paid for it. However, that Sport is still sitting in my driveway and I'm going to be SO sad to sell it in the next week or so - I still love that car, and for some reason, almost prefer it over the Unlimited (do prefer the seats). It's been worth every penny and then some.
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    I haven't sat in an '04 or newer version! Lowering the seats maybe a good thing, maybe not. The more upright I can sit in a vehicle, the better!

    FYI, I paid $5,000 for my 95 Rio Grande 3-4 years ago. It has the factory hard top and auto transmission with the 2.5L 4-banger. It also has aftermarket A/C. It's no hot rod, but is sufficient for my needs. It is not my daily driver. I could probably sell it for $5,000 today with little effort!
  • zeistzeist Member Posts: 8
    For anyone who knows: I just put a halftop on my Sahara that had an original hardtop. Right now my roll bar in the back that is exposed to the weather doesn't have any pads on it. Do I need to cap or fill the holes in the roll bar to prevent rust? Do the roll bars hold water, snow? Thanks for your help.
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