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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

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  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I havent needed to get the switch but i have read alot abou it. Looks like the pirce has gone up since the last time I checked. Must be a popular item???

    Description for Part Number: 15709327
    SWITCH
    Your Price: $40.59 Core Charge: $0.00 List Price: $58.95
    Total Price: $40.59
    gmpartszoneonline
  • ksz71ksz71 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Silverado Extended Cab. I broke the right side rear side window latch. Does anyone know where I can find one without using a junkyard or a dealer???
  • lee23lee23 Member Posts: 2
    The plastic lid on my center console that you use to write on snapped off. I have a 99' GMC Sierra 1500. I am wondering if anybody knows where to get a replacement lid. Thanks
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    Ryan,
    Do you know if this switch needs to be "re-programmed" when you replace it, or can you just install it and that's all?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Can somebody tell me if it is possible to retrofit the steering wheel mounted buttons on a late model Silverado pickup? It so happens that these are not just redundant radio controls, but also Driver Information Center (DIC) buttons, that enable one to display average MPG, etc., and to program door lock delays, headlamps delays, etc. Trucks without these steering wheel buttons do not have these features. GM does not offer a retrofit kit. The retail price of a steering wheel with the buttons is about $ 490 without the airbag (possibly around $ 380 with decent discounts). My questions are: Are there any additional components that would need to be purchased or does the button type steering wheel harness plug directly into the existing programming module? And how difficult would it be to remove the air bag from the old steering wheel and place it into the new steering wheel? Is any special programming required?.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    As far as I know I have not heard of anyone requiring programming it is just plug and play.
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    I've seen the consoles on Ebay.(but not cheap)
    -David
  • nute1959nute1959 Member Posts: 1
    I don't know about the radio lamps, but the lamps for the HVAC Control Buttons can be purchased on the internet from TopBulb.com these mini lamps are soldered on a circuit board in the HVAC control module, that can be removed and easily taken apart, and the burned out lamps unsoldered and the replacements soldered in. that is if you have a soldering iron, and some solder wick to remove the existing solder. The Part Number for the lamps is OL-3229BPE.
    From: http://www.TopBulb.com
    Item Number: OL-3229BPE
    Product Description: MINIATURE LAMP
  • 05z7105z71 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,
    I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado crew cab z71 4wd.I have started the task of searching for a 6" or 8" lift kit (it has become a real pain).I was wondering if anyone in the known world has had any good or bad expericences with different brands (whiplash, fabtech, superlift etc.etc.) I would greatly appreciate any help on this issue! Oh by the way it needs to be able to go off the pavement when the lift is done (haha) it is not a show truck more of a daily driver.

    Thanks,
    Phil
  • 05z7105z71 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same issue with a 2002 silverado that was showing a reduction in MPG and we replaced the 100K plugs that lasted for 65K and added STP fuel injector cleaner and it came back up to where it was supposed to be.I would also check the O2 sensors just to make sure they are ok.

    Later,
    05Z71
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    Thanks for the reply.
    I asked the same question over on the 'Maintenance & Repair > Questions About Fuel Systems' thread and besides plugs 'alcan' suggested plug wires, air filter, PCV valve, and fuel filter be replaced. I've purchased everything except PCV valve and plug wires. After searching around a few places I finally resorted to a trip to the dealer to find out that this engine doesn't use a PCV valve. I haven't looked into how they manage the crank case gases yet but that's fine with me. With the plug wires, I would never buy OEM from the dealer. I was hoping to find a custom-made upgrade (Moroso,MSD,Accel) but so far it looks like a vain wish. Finding after market stuff for the 8.1L is like shopping tennies for King Kong. From what I've seen NAPA or Bosch (AutoZone) appear to be pretty good quality. AutoZone has a life time warranty which means free replacement. For plugs I chose NGK TR55IR Iridium (.059 gap), $6.95. Cheapest I could find Denso Iridium online was 11.99. 'D' day is set for next week-end. After a couple of tanks I'll post results if anyone's interested.

    -David

    BTW- What exactly do you mean by "check the O2 sensors"? What's the best method? Thanks for the help.
  • seannyt82seannyt82 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1988 GMC Sierra 1500. Engine is a 350. I keep on losing my belt. I have put on a new alternator, idler, pulley tensioner and pulley. numerous belts. the alignment of all the pulleys is perfect. any ideas????

    thanks!
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    What replacement belt are you using? Stay away from cheap belts sold by discount auto parts stores. Such belts are junk and will cause you problems. Make sure you tension the new belt correctly. Do not overtension, this may cause bigger problems than just the belt breaking. When you say you keep losing the belt, do you mean the belt breaks or comes loose? I assume you have one serpentine belt.

    BTW Gates Co. makes good belts, NAPA sells them. Or get one from your GM dealer. OEM belts are usually decent quality. You pay more for them, but it will be worth it.

    Check your pulleys for grease contamination, andy sharp burrs, glazed surfaces,etc. If the pulley running surfaces are glazed, use emery cloth to roughen the surface lightly. Check the tensioner pulley and its bearing. The tensioner pulley may need replacing. A bad tensioner pulley bearing will cause rapid belt wear.
  • white6white6 Member Posts: 588
    Last time I had a problem like this, it was the water pump...
  • lpanelpane Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 LS 3500 and the drivers arm rest won't stop in the horizontal position. How can I take it off?

    Thanks
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    It was the switch. PN 1504-5085. Both mirrors now work.
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    Message came on at 56K. Any clues as to the problem? Very seldom have used the 4wd. It seems to work in Auto, 2Hi, 4hi and 4lo with no problems.
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    15709327 All SWITCH 1 $35.30 1 $35.30 $26.63 $0.00 $9.95
    $45.25
    Non-NC Residents Total:
    $45.25
    Sales Tax (NC Only):
    $2.47
    NC Residents Total:
    $47.72

    GMPARTSDIRECT
  • 96vortec96vortec Member Posts: 10
    ">image
  • kevtechkevtech Member Posts: 4
    How did you drive it from the bed?
  • dubairdubair Member Posts: 2
    has anyone heard of the new DUB~air intakes? They are constructed of polished Stainless Steel and have a polished SS cold air box too! We manufacture them, but since they are somewhat new in the market, I wanted to share the wealth of knowledge! if you want some pics or for more information: zachg@avanche.com
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    That didnt sound too good eh? I didnt drive my girlfriend drove it while I sat in the bed.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Well I finally did it. I bought a magnaflow exhaust and tip. Had it installed today and it sounds awesome
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Whew!!!! Glad you clarified that for us :P
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Did you ride in the bed to listen to it?? :confuse:
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Dont have to.

    Rolled the windows down though. A brisk 40 degrees

    This is the magnaflow tip (#35157)

    image

    image

    Exhaust not great (magnaflow #14589 SS 22")

    image
  • 96vortec96vortec Member Posts: 10
    So is it single exhaust or dual?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Single.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Good looking system, should perform well for you. Now to figure out how to convince the wife I need a new Magnaflow system on the '06 Dakota!!! Seems to be hard to convince a wife of the need to put any sort of part on a new truck with only 1200 miles... :cry:
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Yea my gf was leary but after riding in it she likes it. Thinks it sounds much better than stock. I wish I would have done this sooner. Oh well live and learn

    Merry Christmas everyone and happy new year !!!

    Ryan
  • 96vortec96vortec Member Posts: 10
    You replaced factory single exhaust with another single exhaust?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Yea why not?
  • 96vortec96vortec Member Posts: 10
    Well if you want performance exhaust dont you think it would be a better idea to maximize your performance with dual exhaust
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Putting dual exhaust can actually hurt engine performance - power at low RPM's (say under 2,500) could be reduced -
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    True. Supposedly 3" single is best for performance. My Wife still doesn't understand why I have to take a perfectly good muffler off a brand new truck. :)
  • mjknapp76mjknapp76 Member Posts: 1
    wondering if you have found one of these, I have the same problem
  • john114john114 Member Posts: 1
    I would like to buy a new 2005 Z71 extended cab 4X4 with the standard bed. I want the light duty power package that includes the 5.3 engine and the heavy duty trailer package. I would like information about the different engine types, cast iron block 295 HP (LM7), the high output aluminum block at 310 HP(LM4), and the high output 310 HP flexible fuel (L59).
    Which engine is the more reliable of the above 3 engine types. I understand that the L59 has some modifications to use hardened materials for the intake valves, intake and exhaust valve seats due to the corrosive nature of ethanol.
    There are also some additional sensors to adjust timing and spark advance to account for different fuel types. I currently can not find any stations that sell E85 in the north east. I see some private fueling stations in Staten Island. Maybe local gas stations will start selling Ethanol blends in the near future. It may be an advantage to get this engine
    unless the additional technology is problematic.

    Is it worth the extra complexity or should I stick with the LM4 or LM7? Of these two which will give me better value?

    I also need some information about the rear axle gear ratio. There no longer seems to be an option to get the 3.73 axle. How much gas mileage will I sacrifice if I go with the 4.1 rear axle ratio vs the standard 3.42 rear axle? I understand the 4.1 would be better for towing but I only intend on towing a pop-up (2,000 - 3,000 lbs). Will I be disappointed with the 3.42 rear axle?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I do not know enough about the engines to give you a good answer,but I would bet that the LM7 would be the simplest and most durable design.

    About the gears - 3.73:1 ratio IS available on 2005 and 2006 trucks, but it is an optional ratio. In 2004, 3.73:1 was standard on Z71 trucks, and that was changed to 3.42:1 on 05's and 06's. I would recommend 3.73:1 ratio for a simple reason: Better off-the-line acceleration and good compromise between 3.42 and 4.11. Better for towing too. These trucks run in 4 th gear most of the time at very low RPM (about 2000 at 65 MPH) with 3.73 axle ratio.

    If you go to gm.com, select Chevrolet, then click on "locate a vehicle" you can search the inventory of any dealer within 100 mile radius. You will find a truck with 3.73 rear end, but there will not be that many. most do come with 3.42 axle ratio.
  • 04cad04cad Member Posts: 131
    My Dad's 2004 Silverado 4x4 has a cracked passenger side mirror. It has the remote adjust, remote fold in, and the turn signal light (I think it may have the heated mirror also). I have been told both that just the glass can be changed and that the whole mirror assembly needs to be changed. Does anyone know if we can just change the glass and if so what is the procedure to remove the glass and reinstall the new one. Thanks
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I had the plastic cover of my side view mirror crack (99 Z-71) Chevy wanted an arm and a leg to replace - can't recall exact amount - but it was over $200 (maybe $$250 installed)

    I ordered one from this site for $70.00 it took about a week to get it and about 2 minutes to install.

    Its not a GM part - made by KOOL-VUE (Taiwan) but it looks exactly like the one I took off.

    http://www.1aauto.com/1A/Mirrors/ChevyTruck/Silverado/-/-/1
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I paid $35 for a replacement mirror (just the glass) on my 2000 from the chevy dealer.
  • 04cad04cad Member Posts: 131
    I just ordered a replacement mirror glass today. $107.00 plus shipping, it has the signal and heat. Hopefully I can figure out how to put it in when I see how it is made. If I can't handle it I have a local mechanic who will put it in for less than $26.00.
  • kevtechkevtech Member Posts: 4
    Hello all, I have just bought a 1995 Silverado ext cab 4x4, 5.7L The previous owner put 285/75/R16 tires on it. I have noted that stock size is 265/75/R16. How much is this "throwing things off" (speedo, shift points, etc?) I vaguely remember something about a "tire calibration module" or something behind the dash that you remove "tabs" from for tire size/speedometer correction?? Is this correct? Or am I thinking of something else, like maybe (gulp) a Ford or Dodge? Thanks in advance...
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Your speed will be actually be 3.7% faster than your speedo says.

    So if your speedo says 60 MPH you are going about 62.2 MPH.

    My truck came stock with 265 75 16 and I put the 285 75 16 on - never messed with changing my speedo or shift points.

    I have a hand help GPS that has a readout for speed over ground. I checked the speedo before I made the change - my speedo was off a little with stock tires. The larger tires made it closer to being correct.
  • outlawradooutlawrado Member Posts: 3
    I own a 03 silverado ext cab 2wd I want a more aggresive look without using a lift kit. What's the biggest sized tires I can use on stock rims without major rubbing. And can I level it out adjusting the torsion bar's?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    275/70R16
  • wrench4wrench4 Member Posts: 1
    Recently began this symptom of backfiring thru the TBI under load (going up a grade). Sometimes severe, sometimes just once. Cap and rotor changed but no no change in the symptom. Drives okay cruising, idles fine, no SES light or codes.

    Any pointers out there?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Happy New Years everyone!!
  • kevtechkevtech Member Posts: 4
    Just wondering how much of a pain in the pickle it is gonna be to replace. Do I have to dis-connect the ball-joint, etc, or can I sneek the axle out without going through all that? How is the bolt flange removed? Any "special" tools needed to do this job?
    Thanks in advance...
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Everyone Enjoy 06!
This discussion has been closed.

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