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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • chevybsgchevybsg Member Posts: 2
    If you take the Positive battery cable off and then put back on, make sure it is tight, this should reset the vehicle. :D
  • chevybsgchevybsg Member Posts: 2
    My emergency brake will not take hold(lock in place) I have tried brake cleaner but it didnt do the trick what will help? :confuse:
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Poor engine performance causes low manifold vacuum which affects the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. The PCM determines that the engine's under more load than it actually is, and delays the sifts accordingly.
  • ultrarunnerultrarunner Member Posts: 64
    Has anyone come up with a definitive answer on this?

    My elderly (88) neighbor bought his 4.3L, 1991 S10 new and it now has only 39,334 miles. He has been pleased with his truck except for an ongoing fuel gage problem. Thank the GM Gods for the resetable trip odometer.

    I was certain it was the sending unit, so I dropped the tank and replaced it with a new oem AC Delco unit. It has not fixed the problem...only my neighbor is now out $201 for the part and I feel bad about it.

    I ruled out a gauge problem because the analog gauge reads "Past Full" when the harness is separated and reads "Empty" when the harness is grounded.

    Not being one to walk away from a problem and leave a neighbor in a lurch...how can I fix this?
  • ben1995ben1995 Member Posts: 1
    This is called a bracket. It supports the alternator, power steering and the AC unit. It is a GM dealer part and the cost of about $132.00. I just had to buy one when replacing the engine in mine. If you have the time to find the bearing and have access to a press, you may be able to repair it.
  • jjj4jjj4 Member Posts: 5
    alcan,
    Thank`s for your reply to my post. Do you think that I should go a head and have the MAP sensor replaced?
    I have a 1970 455 HO TA and a 1971 Dodge Dart Sport w/slant 6 and can
    work on them with my eyes closed, but these newer cars just kick my butt.
    Thanks again for your reply.
    jjj4
  • seabushseabush Member Posts: 68
    I have a 93 S-10. I have air coming from the floor vent but not from the face level vents. I can hear the air but it doesn't come out of the upper level vents. In fact, the higher I increase the blower the more air I get from the floor vent. It seems like the ventilation has been reversed. Any ideas regarding the problem? I also have a constant hissing sound coming from the central vent. I've never fixed this. Can these two issues be related?
  • booberellabooberella Member Posts: 1
    I'm having a similar problem with my 2001 S-10, except I don't hear it turning over. It just clicks.

    I haven't had any problems with my truck until about two months ago -- every time it rained particularly hard, the turn signal would short out for a couple of days. By the time I had a chance to take it in to have the wiring checked, it would start working again. I thought maybe it had something to do with the trailer hitch I had installed about nine months ago. But it rained on Sunday, and sure enough the blinker started acting up -- only this morning it wouldn't start. Should I have a diagnostic test run before I start replacing alternators/starters/sparkplugs/etc.? And what sort of place could run the test?
  • tolert67tolert67 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 s10 ext cab 4x4 with the 4.3 engine, it overheats at idle when the a/c is on but not when it is off or at any other time. I've replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, radiator cap and clutch fan and it is still overheating. does anyone have any suggestions?
  • mike_1998mike_1998 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,
    95 s10 4.3 auto.
    We get code 43 while the check engine light is on.
    Any suggestions?
  • mike_1998mike_1998 Member Posts: 2
    check engine is on. please help.
    thanks in advance
  • arts2arts2 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I lost all the lights on the left rear and the initial problem was with the left rear wiring harness. I found it to be open because of rubbing on the frame. I've fixed the brake and turn signal wiring but have no voltage on the left circuit for the parking light. I've checked as close to where the wiring exits the frame and no voltage is present. Can anyone tell me how this harness physically runs and where I can get the wiring diagram. The right rear parking light is fine.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    This sounds like the Fan clutch is not engaging?? ... When you start the engine cold - the engine should should be "Loud" for a couple minutes as the clutch usually engages at part of the cold warmup cycle .... check for this (You can actually hear the differnece - as you should also hear the difference when the engine gets hot and the fan clutch engages when at Idle ....)
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8018c17f.gif
  • johns4johns4 Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone have the resources to be able to tell me if the wiring harness from a 1998 2.2 is compatible with a 1997. I've been trying to find p/n's to compare, but no luck. Trying to help daughters boyfriend with fire under hood ;) (no pun intended), and have found a 1998 wiring harness. Will be ordering from across country, and there is no return if wrong. Thanks in advance.
  • resengrresengr Member Posts: 2
    Thought I had all my lights working (changed a couple of bulbs and the flasher) but when I went for a safety inspection, I had no brake lights or rear turn lights. No fuses are blown and I inspected the grounding wires which look okay. Does anyone have a suggestion?
  • shittruckshittruck Member Posts: 1
    My 98 sonoma :lemon: brakes act similar. If I have to hit the brakes hard, they usually stay on! Can't even move the damn truck! Pedal is hard as a rock. I have to shut it off and start it back up. :lemon:
    Also, brakes seem to apply themselves! Tach goes up, usually down shifts and really struggles to move. Pedal is hard and right at the top. Usually shut off truck and re start. Pain in the [non-permissible content removed] on the X-way though. No dought the rotors are heating and warping because of this, have noted some vibration turning to jerking in steering wheel. :lemon:
    What's the deal? :lemon:
  • shindigmachineshindigmachine Member Posts: 7
    it probably needs a tune up, (spark plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor, if you haven't done this to the vehicle since you've got it, do this first) or it could be an idle sensor (that's my best bet) or a mass airflow sensor if it's the multiport injected 4.3. but more than likely it's the idle sensor.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Your local GM dealer's parts dept should be able to give you the part # for each harness.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Probably a dinked signal switch. Power comes into the signal switch on 2 wires, the dark blue and orange. Power out to the left signal/brake is yellow, to the right signal/brake is dark green:

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8012b28a.gif
  • massivemattmassivematt Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys, I'm new to the forums. I bought my 1989 for 200$ from a buddy of mine. There was a leak in the head gasket and a lot of oil got into the water. So now my radiatoris coated in about an 1/8" thick of sludgy oil. I've tried flushing the radiator many times. I bought on of those "V" flush system things hoping that would give me better results, but it didn't. I also thought of steam cleaning the rad, but I'll have to bring it to work.

    I know you're probably thinking, it's an 89 for christ sake get a new rad. Well the rad was replaced about 4 months ago, right before the leak occured.

    So if anyone has any advice on how I could remove the oil, please inform me.

    Thanks for your time

    -Matt
  • dschwartzdschwartz Member Posts: 3
    I have a 93 Chevy S 10 Pickup that will not start. I was having problems starting it last week, maybe like the battery was weak. I replaced the battery and it will not start still. I do not know what else to check to see what is wrong with it. Please help if you can. Thanks!
  • ti3gg3er77ti3gg3er77 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 S10, 2.2L, 5 speed. I was told the head gasket was bad but it looks fine. The head was removed and there is antifreeze on the cylinders. The head has been cleaned and has no cracks. The oil has been drained and is clean, no antifreeze in the oil. There are 2 spark plugs that are corroded. Please help, what is wrong with my truck? :sick:
  • pick2pick2 Member Posts: 1
    Try checking for a lose ground wire. Lights flickering seems to be the first thing I'd look for is a loose wire somewhere
  • michaelf1michaelf1 Member Posts: 1
    timing a 2.2 98 s10 is there a timimg mark so you can use a timing light
  • mattv1mattv1 Member Posts: 12
    I have an 89 s-10 with a 2.5 4 cyl that I replaced the head gasket on. I had done all the things toput it back in time but dont know what the timing should be. People tell me its all electronic and the ecm will take care of it. I know have a knock in it and was told about a knock sensor. I turned the distributor and got rid of the knock but it just wont idle or run right. Someone give me some advice before I burn the damn thing
  • mattv1mattv1 Member Posts: 12
    look and see if a vaccuum line has come off the switch or the vent flap. Most of those use a vaccuum to switch the levels
  • mattv1mattv1 Member Posts: 12
    if there is anti-freeze on the cylinders then either ur head is cracked or your headgasket is bad. It doesnt take but a small blemish to make it leak. Hopefully your block isnt craked inside the cylinder wall
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Nothing to time, factory set, to see the timing you need a scanner. :)
  • dschwartzdschwartz Member Posts: 3
    Battery has been replaced. Was running sluggish like the battery was bad. Not the problem. Still will not start with a new battery. Anyone have any advice?
  • cletocleto Member Posts: 2
    95 chevy s10 ls 5 spd
    Bought the truck about a 2 months ago, been running fine. Few days ago drove the truck to the store, shut it off, to work shut it off, and then went to get supplies, and the truck wouldn't start. At first my brother first possibly thought it was a fuel filter, checked that, blew out the filter and put it back on. Still wouldn't start. Checked lines and no gas was coming out of the fuel line. When we dropped the tank, there was somekind of sealant over top ring of the gas tank. Chipped that off, replaced pump. Truck started with not much of a problem, took it for a test drive, when I put it in to gear it hesitates and bogs down but won't die. Then when playing with gas pedal it will work for a few moments, then sputter and backfire. Let the truck idle for over an hour thinking it might be air in the lines, tried again and same result. Put fuel injection cleaner in it and still the same thing, someone please help! Ty. BTW, when I put the truck in reverse, I can press the gas down fully without any problems...
  • chvymannchvymann Member Posts: 1
    I have 93 S10 with a 2.8L engine. Coolant flows heavily out the backside of the motor between the back of the engine and the 5 speed transmission. Anyone know if there are freeze plugs back there? Hope the block isn't cracked.
  • dmblair78dmblair78 Member Posts: 7
    I may be out of my league here by answering this however (just an amatuer), the symptoms you are describing reminds me of an issue I had with my 99 2.2L. I would replace the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). It made my truck do all kinds of goofy things. It's only 20 bucks or so at autozone. Would be a cheap fix if it would work.
  • ken31ken31 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Chevy S-10 extended cab. Among other problems, I have now broken the plastic release door handle to the third door. My service and repair manual does not even acknowledge the existence of the door. cry: My question, how do you remove the handle to replace it with a new CHEAP PLASTIC ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT HANDLE. :mad:
  • ken31ken31 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 S-10 with the service engine light glaring in my eyes 24/7. According to the service center I need a sensor replaced that is not readily available and costs $600. They have told me that the sensor is not needed and the truck is fine as is without it. Just a pain at the EPA check. Question??? How do I get the light to go off PERMANENTL????? :confuse:
  • codeman8705codeman8705 Member Posts: 1
    I drive a '99 s-10 2.2 and my alternator just went out today. I drove it to work...everything ok. left for lunch and the battery light was on, so i turned it off in the drive-thru, and turned it back on. It started up just fine and the light went off. When i left work...it was hard to start. It was at night and my headlights were really dim. Also, my stereo cut off and on. The Instrument panel lights were really dim as well. When I got home, I turned the truck off, and immediately tried to see if it would start again...i just heard a rapid ticking sound. All this to say, if your alternator were going out, it probably wouldnt take long to find out.
  • drexeljohndrexeljohn Member Posts: 1
    I have had my 95 s10 for about 2 years now. 2.2L 5-speed generally a solid all around truck. At the moment she is running like crap, particularly when the engine is cold or if it is wet out. The engine will miss terribly throughout the rpm range whenever you try and raise the rpm either driving down the road of sitting in neutral. The problem used to solve itself, the truck would warm up and the engine would stop missing and she would run strong. Recently however the engine will still miss badly even when the engine has been completely warmed. I replaced the plugs, wires, pcv valve when I first got the truck and the person before me kept incredible records of the vehicles maintenance, and I have kept up with the regular maint. I replaced the plugs again this past weekend just to be sure, they showed no signs of abnormal wear for the time they were used. I went cheap on the wires when I replaced them the first time so I am going to try them again. At the moment I am thinking it must be a sensor problem which one I have no idea. Any advice would be great.
  • 33223322 Member Posts: 1
    do you have an oil cooler. get a kit to rebuild adapter plate. all you need is an oil ring.
  • cletocleto Member Posts: 2
    Found this out...

    I took it and got it diagnosed, and they told me that there wasnt enough pressure coming from the fuel tank... They checked before fuel filter, so its from the fuel filter back, any ideas what could cause this? When we dropped the gas tank, there was this hardend sealant that we had to chip off, the new fuel pumps o ring was too big so we used old one, basically what I'm asking is, could this seal be causing the problem, or would it just have the gas vapors escaping?
  • dolphinlover19dolphinlover19 Member Posts: 1
    My son has a 1985 Chevy S-10. It has a 2.8 liter engine, 4 speed manual transmission, and its a 4x4.I can't find a Bellhousing anywhere for it. Does anyone know what Bellhousings would be compatible with this truck. Any help someone can offer would be greatly appreciated.
  • chevy02chevy02 Member Posts: 19
    Where is the radiator drain on a 2002 ZR2? Driver or passenger side?
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Should be driver side, back side of radiator.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    You are right that would just cause vapor leakage only. I would check the electrical connector at the tank for corroded or burnt pins before I install another pump. If you find a problem with the connector GM has a repair connector for that reason.
  • walt03walt03 Member Posts: 6
    I still have spark jumping through my wires. I have a 95 s-10 2.2 I have used the oem wires, aftermarket racing wires, changed the ing. module, both ing. coils, plugs, checked all the grounds, and everything is ok. Any thing else i can try???? :confuse:
  • ken31ken31 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Al,

    I thought it would be easy once I get the door opened but everything on the truck is flimsy as @#% I thought I should check before I get too far

    Thanks again,
    Ken
  • ryannoe_s10ryannoe_s10 Member Posts: 1
    jus wondering if a 02 envoy front bumper would fit my 00' s 10 without problems. even if it takes alittle customizing its cool.

    thanks Ryan
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Have the coolant temp sensor and manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor verified with a scan tool.
  • sgtboyersgtboyer Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 1990 S-10 with the 4.3L and 148k miles on the vehicle. I did a complete tun-up to the motor and changed out the fuel filter as well. I still have no power when trying to accelerate. It feels and sounds as if the motor is starving for fuel or air. The "Check Engine" is NOT illuminated and no codes are stored in the computer. I am thinking that the injectors are clogged or maybe the ignition module is bad. Can anyone help me out with this problem? Thanks!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Verify no exhaust restriction by haveing back pressure checked.
  • mattv1mattv1 Member Posts: 12
    do you have a high output coil? If so you have to get higher ohm plug wires
This discussion has been closed.

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