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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
My elderly (88) neighbor bought his 4.3L, 1991 S10 new and it now has only 39,334 miles. He has been pleased with his truck except for an ongoing fuel gage problem. Thank the GM Gods for the resetable trip odometer.
I was certain it was the sending unit, so I dropped the tank and replaced it with a new oem AC Delco unit. It has not fixed the problem...only my neighbor is now out $201 for the part and I feel bad about it.
I ruled out a gauge problem because the analog gauge reads "Past Full" when the harness is separated and reads "Empty" when the harness is grounded.
Not being one to walk away from a problem and leave a neighbor in a lurch...how can I fix this?
Thank`s for your reply to my post. Do you think that I should go a head and have the MAP sensor replaced?
I have a 1970 455 HO TA and a 1971 Dodge Dart Sport w/slant 6 and can
work on them with my eyes closed, but these newer cars just kick my butt.
Thanks again for your reply.
jjj4
I haven't had any problems with my truck until about two months ago -- every time it rained particularly hard, the turn signal would short out for a couple of days. By the time I had a chance to take it in to have the wiring checked, it would start working again. I thought maybe it had something to do with the trailer hitch I had installed about nine months ago. But it rained on Sunday, and sure enough the blinker started acting up -- only this morning it wouldn't start. Should I have a diagnostic test run before I start replacing alternators/starters/sparkplugs/etc.? And what sort of place could run the test?
95 s10 4.3 auto.
We get code 43 while the check engine light is on.
Any suggestions?
thanks in advance
I lost all the lights on the left rear and the initial problem was with the left rear wiring harness. I found it to be open because of rubbing on the frame. I've fixed the brake and turn signal wiring but have no voltage on the left circuit for the parking light. I've checked as close to where the wiring exits the frame and no voltage is present. Can anyone tell me how this harness physically runs and where I can get the wiring diagram. The right rear parking light is fine.
Also, brakes seem to apply themselves! Tach goes up, usually down shifts and really struggles to move. Pedal is hard and right at the top. Usually shut off truck and re start. Pain in the [non-permissible content removed] on the X-way though. No dought the rotors are heating and warping because of this, have noted some vibration turning to jerking in steering wheel. :lemon:
What's the deal? :lemon:
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8012b28a.gif
I know you're probably thinking, it's an 89 for christ sake get a new rad. Well the rad was replaced about 4 months ago, right before the leak occured.
So if anyone has any advice on how I could remove the oil, please inform me.
Thanks for your time
-Matt
Bought the truck about a 2 months ago, been running fine. Few days ago drove the truck to the store, shut it off, to work shut it off, and then went to get supplies, and the truck wouldn't start. At first my brother first possibly thought it was a fuel filter, checked that, blew out the filter and put it back on. Still wouldn't start. Checked lines and no gas was coming out of the fuel line. When we dropped the tank, there was somekind of sealant over top ring of the gas tank. Chipped that off, replaced pump. Truck started with not much of a problem, took it for a test drive, when I put it in to gear it hesitates and bogs down but won't die. Then when playing with gas pedal it will work for a few moments, then sputter and backfire. Let the truck idle for over an hour thinking it might be air in the lines, tried again and same result. Put fuel injection cleaner in it and still the same thing, someone please help! Ty. BTW, when I put the truck in reverse, I can press the gas down fully without any problems...
I took it and got it diagnosed, and they told me that there wasnt enough pressure coming from the fuel tank... They checked before fuel filter, so its from the fuel filter back, any ideas what could cause this? When we dropped the gas tank, there was this hardend sealant that we had to chip off, the new fuel pumps o ring was too big so we used old one, basically what I'm asking is, could this seal be causing the problem, or would it just have the gas vapors escaping?
I thought it would be easy once I get the door opened but everything on the truck is flimsy as @#% I thought I should check before I get too far
Thanks again,
Ken
thanks Ryan