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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I've used both Bosch and AC platinum. Either one ran fine. Recently we used Bosch 2-tip that went in a 350 passenger van. They have been performing great. The last wires we change out was OEM ordered on line. By ordering on line, price wise it came out the same and the lengths match up better on OEM verses aftermarket.

    With all the overtime on maintenance, have you considered cleaning the air defuser block thats up stream of the throttle body?

    You must be doing some intense driving to need to change the air filter every 6K. Granted my miles are highway, but I usually get 15 - 20K on mine.

    From what I've been reading of other comments on this forum, the ball joint are prone to go early on some S-10s. It might be a safety move to check them out.

    Good luck & enjoy
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Wow, that's alot of miles and alot of dirt to eat. I haven't any experience with it but have you checked into the Air Hog kits they advertise?

    I found out the hard way that on some S-10s to change the plugs on the driver's side its easier to block up the front, remove left front (driver's side) wheel, and go in under the splash flap with 3/8 drive extensions to get to plugs. In the long run it saves time and a few choice words trying to get around the steering shaft and other interference.

    Think safety,
    Cheers
  • dkbryantdkbryant Member Posts: 2
    I found the problem. Worn out shock bushings on the front left. Most likely bad from day one. The shock is still good and I am installing new bushings.
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    Sorry for the delay. Been traveling and not checking in.

    As guessed, it was air in the system. Basically the facility didn't get the last of the air out after the second time. Once I purged it, refilled, all is well.

    Now if I can just solve that driver's side window dilemma... :confuse:
  • yousefyousef Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 4 cyl Sonoma with a few problems: 1. There is an annoying loud clicking sound every two seconds, e.g. at 60 mph, that is coming from behind the steerring wheel and in the instrument cluster area. Any ideas? 2. The hood release cable broke at the handle inside the cab. Is there an easy method of replacement? 3. The red Air Bag light at the upper left corner of the instrument cluster is on. Anyone know why and how I can fix the problem? Thanks, and salaam (peace) to all. Yousef / Northern California
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Know what you mean. Guess that's one of those things where obviously the engineering team who designs the stuff never has to work on the stuff. If the designing engineers had to stand on there head for a while just to conduct routine maintenance they might take a different approach on how they build things.

    A co-worker had his fuel pump changed. He said they removed the bed to get to it. One would think a removable access panel would be a big plus for the boys with the Bow tie.
  • cfi1962cfi1962 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a starting problem w/ a 2001 S10, standard, 2.2 engine. It is as if the clutch switch is not enganging. I will sit there and flip from run to start continuously and it will eventually start, like normal. I can here the fuel pump running and I can actually hear the clutch switch making. Have not put my meter on the switch, though. This does not happen but every 10th time. It has yet to leave me, but it will. Is this the same as ya'lls? Any thought from anyone? Thanks-chuck
  • drsparkedrsparke Member Posts: 1
    on the oil changing gripe sidebar...... The best design I've found so far for having to do oil changes as a lube tech are the honda/acura motors. all the v-6 engine's have their filters by the right front wheel and most of the 4-cyl engines are up on the back (although sometimes a pain to get off without getting burned on the older one's)
  • tgun275tgun275 Member Posts: 7
    Would it be possible to install 4X4 in a "1994" 2-wheel drive sonoma. If it is possible what kind of price range is it in.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Chevy Cavalier, not if you use the PF-52 filter.
  • paggz77paggz77 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 1993 S-10 Blazer and I have to replace the CVU joint on the passanger side of my truck and i was wondering if anyone here has Done this before and if so how long and how difficult was it to replace it.

    Thank You
  • roadhousebluesroadhouseblues Member Posts: 1
    I have an 86 s-10 pickup truck with a 2.8L V6 2WD with 40,000 original miles. Recently on a highway cruise above 55mph the engine light will come on, then go away later when I have slowed down or stopped driving. My guess is o2 sensor.

    My questions are, where is the 12 pin link terminal to check for trouble codes I heard it is under the drivers side dash but I can't locate it. Also where can I decode the flashes that will follow, provided I can find the terminal.
  • coderedcodered Member Posts: 43
    i have a 98 gmc with a cd player that says loc..and a red light that blinks .... any help would be great...
  • beck_bailbeck_bail Member Posts: 1
    Hey,

    I recently swapped out the radio in my '03 S-10. I didn't use a wiring kit, so I had to splice into the radio wires. The radio is in and it works great.

    But, I have not dash lights anymore. My instrument gauages and heater controls don't light up at all. I've checked the fuses, and they are all good.

    Where do I go from here with troubleshooting this?

    Any help, greatly appreciated.
  • themcdealthemcdeal Member Posts: 2
    :sick: I recently bought a '98 2.2L 5-speed extended cab for $150 bucks from a buddy. Now this thing is in bad shape, lemme tell ya. When I got it, it didn't run because it didn't have a battery. I went to Advance and bought one for 70 bucks, but when I got it home, the thing was dead. Great. Being lazy, I just slaved it off my Dodge. It started, and the alternator gives the battery charge, but the engine makes this God-awful smacking noise and sputters in idle, although the sputter may be the gas. I'm not sure how long the truck just sat there waiting on me, but I know it was over a month. I put some gas line anti freeze in the tank, but I'm not sure how much that helped. Also, initially, the oil pressure is just fine, but after 10 or so minutes of idle, the gauge is sitting on absolute zero. I've been told that the bearings are shot and maybe it's a rod, but I'm not sure about the lack of oil pressure. :confuse:
    Now, before I go further, just know that I bought this sucker as a project truck. Something I can gain a little experience on because I bought my dad's '78 bronco when I got back from Iraq the first time. It needs some pretty significant help too, so you understand why I'd want to learn a little somethin somethin before I go head first into the closest thing my family has to an heirloom. So I'd appreciate it if any replies said more than just "set it on fire and push it over the edge of a quarry somewhere".
    Anyway, as for the tranny, she's good...except for when I put it in 1st, no matter how long I hold down the clutch, the gears grind a little as it goes home. Not sure whether that's a syncronizer problem or a clutch problem, or something else. I want to do as much work as I can myself: 1) To get experience, like I said. And 2) I'm only an E-4 and after I handle the bills, there's not much money left to throw around. I don't really have much info as far as do it yourself rebuilds and such, so if you do, I'd appreciate it. I do, however, have access to the tools. Thanks for taking time to hear my sob story. :cry: Hope to hear something soon.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Cheapest way out is a junk yard engine, yours is getting ready to throw a rod.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I concur completely. Perfect candidate for a used engine.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    As for 1st gear grinding I am inclined toward the clutch being bad rather than tranny. I have been known to be wrong however :blush:
    If you are still on active duty most posts have very good auto shops where you can work on the truck and also get excellent advice.
    And thanks for wearing the uniform for all of us.... :)
  • tgun275tgun275 Member Posts: 7
  • tgun275tgun275 Member Posts: 7
    Im no good with tire sizes/rims so i come to you for help.

    I have 15" stock Rims, and currently buying a 3" lift for my 1995 SLE 2wd Sonoma. After i get it lifted I need to know what size tires would go on, what is the limit on 15" rims for size of tires that can go on. I want the Offroad look so if anyone can show me a site wheere i can maybe buy the size of tires I'm looking for give leave one.

    Thanks ~Jim
  • paggz77paggz77 Member Posts: 2
    It should be located underneith the steerin colum and should be a little black cover on it. remove it and the link terminal is right there. If it isnt im not sure where it is located.
  • tgun275tgun275 Member Posts: 7
    I dont want the tires out to far, so if used the stock rims(trying to save money by not buying rims) the 31 tires would be a tight fit and maybe even rub? maybe I should go 30's or would that not look very cool.

    Thanks for the info though, you did good

    Do you know of a picture with a truck that has only a 3" lift on it?

    and one last question, Would a 1994 lift kit work on a 1995

    Thanks ~Jim
  • tgun275tgun275 Member Posts: 7
    Ps i do have a V6-262ci 4.3Lf motor
  • 4wdn_nm4wdn_nm Member Posts: 2
    Sounds similar to a clogged catalytic converter... Ck it out.
  • yousefyousef Member Posts: 3
    Was anyone able to find solutions to my questions at #1615?
    I solved the clicking sound problem in the instrument cluster, which I will relate to everyone here: The annoying clicking sound about every 2 seconds while driving at 60 mph is because the odometer reset button was not pushed in far enough and the sound is from the mechanism trying to advance to the next 1/10th mile but can't do so. Simply press the rest knob in harder and the sound will disappear and the odometer will resume advancing. I would like to know if anyone knows how to replace the hood latch cable. It broke at the handle in the cab. Also, how do I deal with the red Air Bag light warning that is one the upper left side of the instrument panel? I have a 1997 Sonoma. Strangely, I had a Toyota pu that ran without a single problem for years. The Sonoma has had dozens of problems. We all want to buy American, but... Yousef
  • bracxtremebracxtreme Member Posts: 1
    Also should I take out the drive shaft and tow the truck and see if it still vibrates ?
  • bspurlock1bspurlock1 Member Posts: 2
    This is going to sound dumb but check to make sure when you remove the bulb that there's not alot of grease on them. I know it sounds stupid but I had the same exact problem I changed everything and nothing worked then I started looking at the ends of the bulbs when I pulled them and they were full of grease I wiped them down and everything worked. Hope this will help.
  • bspurlock1bspurlock1 Member Posts: 2
    This is going to seem like a no brainer but check and make sure your brake lights are not staying on after you turn off the motor. I have a 92 sonoma that had the same problem, aparantley theres a plunger underneth the brake pedal that when you depress the brakes activates the brake lights. Mine was sticking and causing the brake lights to stay on and run the battery down.
  • billy1383billy1383 Member Posts: 2
    We are having the same problem with our 1997 chevy s-10 we have replaced the fuel filter and now it still is not starting. Did you figure out what was wrong with your truck?
  • jwingjwing Member Posts: 1
    I am getting this message P0171 "System too lean/Bank too lean (Bank 1)" and I have replaced the Plugs, IAC, and the O2 sensor. My pickup continues to run like crap. I have seen this same problem before with other people and they have no replies. If any one has any idea what the problem might be I would be very greatful.

    Thanks
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Do not post your email address in your messages! If you wish to make your email address known, make your profile email address "public", where it will be viewble to registered members.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • yousefyousef Member Posts: 3
    This is a thank you note to thebigal for your good advice regarding the hood latch cable and air bag red light. I had a dealer check the red light and was told that it is the sensor and it would cost almost $500 to fix it. I was charged $107 just to check it, which took about 1 minute via a computer hookup. I thought to let the air bag ride then remembered when a friend bought a motorcycle and was told to buy a helmet. He asked the price and was told $50 and $100. He asked what the difference was between them and was asked: "Do you have a $50 head or a $100 head?" He bought the one for $100. Thanks again and salaam to you. Yousef.
  • renzotalararenzotalara Member Posts: 4
    i learne this, the S 10 drive shaft is balance together,including the U-joints. so i think or your U-joints going bad or you just replased and didnt balanced, the drive shaft have to ve rebalace,hapen to me.
  • renzotalararenzotalara Member Posts: 4
    I just drop my truck 2" front & reard (front with 2" belltech spindles) and a put second hand steering box with links also have in the front bfgoodrich traction t/a 225/60R15 and the back goodyear eagle GPS P215/65R15,THE PROBLEM NOW I HAVE IS IN THE HWY MAKE FUNNY PULLING TO THE SIDES, MORE WHEN THE ROAD HAVE INDENTATION FOR THE TRAFFIC,DONT NOW IF THE WIDE TIRES IN THE FRONT IS CREATING THIS FELT LIKE A PLAY IN THE STEERING WHEEL. THANKS RENZO.
  • renzotalararenzotalara Member Posts: 4
    I forgot this,i stared same way ,change center bearing but look like one think take to and other, so i ending replasing U-joints to, and the some boody told me have to re balance, so broret to a plase to g re balence (turner),all this was over 3 month so i think on drive shaft do all together,Renzo.
  • alicedalealicedale Member Posts: 1
    My daughter bought a 94 S10 (6 cyl. automatic)spending more money than she had and still owes on it. The truck ran good for two days. She came out of a store one day and it would not start. Replaced the rotor that was actually melted, the coil pack, ignition module. No start. Towed it home, noticed the fuel pump wasn't working, replaced fuel pump, also new plugs. (By the way, the wrong plugs were in the truck.)After my husband replaced the fuel pump it would start everytime but with a really bad miss. Yesterday they took it to a mechanic, he replaced the idle position sensor, truck ran great. His computer came up with low voltage on the map sensor and the EGR valve but said it was good to drive the way it was. The miss was gone, the truck ran fine. Got in the truck last night to start it and the same thing happened all over again. My husband is absolutely at the end of his rope. What does the fuel pump and the rest of this have to do with the other? We are afraid that when we open the hood we will need another rotor and ignition module and all of the above that we have already replaced. We will soon be going to get the truck and need help, please. :cry:
  • poulin71poulin71 Member Posts: 1
    One of my tailgate cable has broken and the other is not far off. I bought new cables but now I am puzzled as how to replace them. They appear to be rivoted to the tailgate. Is there a way to take them off and put on the new cables? If not then why would I be sold the new cables with no way to re-attach them. Thanks
  • doc21doc21 Member Posts: 2
    I HERE A RATTLE WHEN I TURN ON MY AIR COND. DOC
  • renzotalararenzotalara Member Posts: 4
    Very simple, pull the tail gate off for conform,set ed like a table,then pull the handle and see anther, you"ll see the mechanism with tow 5mm wires getting in a white plastic lock,turned the plastic unlocking it (with a long players)then pull the 5mm wire,do one at the time,ones is relise take the side bolts off (the part how has the cable attach to) pull an lock the way to take the 5mm wire off the lock, turn 90 degrees and 90 degrees again look the way it came off,cause the new one it has to go in the same wade. good luck, Renzo. :)
  • coderedcodered Member Posts: 43
    thanks found how to Unlock a locked raido on net.. 5 mins.and was done.thanks
  • doc21doc21 Member Posts: 2
    When I start my truck and turn on the air conditioner there is a very loud rattling sound. Sometimes you can hear it without the air conditioner being on. I have replaced the tension spring, new belt, and rebuilt the air conditioner. Any ideas on what the problem might be or what is causing the noise?
  • kendrakekendrake Member Posts: 1
    2003 S-10 2wd pickup, 93000 mi vibration in drive train
    is pinion bearings going bad. Do a bearing/seal change
    immediately.
  • coderedcodered Member Posts: 43
    on a 98 sonoma....does anyone know how to adjust head lamps?? i see up/down but not side to side...help
  • s10bluess10blues Member Posts: 1
    Here it is.
    I took this truck to the auto store,got a code # po410.
    Secondary air injection sys. malfunction.
    This code is not listed in the haynes manual,or maybe I just can't find it.
    Was told there is a air injection check Valve??
    Not sure what to replace, as the book is'nt helping!!
    Hopeing to correct this problem myself,before letting the
    dealership at it, Again!!!
    Thanks,James
  • kar78kar78 Member Posts: 2
    My 88 2WD S-10 runs very rich, and is getting about 10mpg. It seems to run and idle smooth though. Oil pressure and temp gauges seem eratic, but that maybe another issue. Replaced injectors, MAP. No change. Could O2 sensor cause this? or could the ECM go partially bad? Thanks
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    O2 sensor can certainly cause that but if it is that bad you should be getting some codes.
  • dram615dram615 Member Posts: 4
    I had a 98 Mustang with that exact same code once. It turns out it was the stupid California required smog pump (air pump). I had gotten into a small fender bender and since the pump was located right behind the front tire, the accident boroke the control module for the pump. I replaced the pump and with the module and the error code went away. It took over 2 months of troubleshooting to figure that out. The smog pumps are only on vehicles that are designated for states with strict smog laws like California. I don't know for sure if the S10s have them but you may want to investigate... good luck
  • scottf3scottf3 Member Posts: 1
    In my 1991 S-10 I keep blowing the igintion modules. I t will start every so often after it sits for a long period of time it will start after it cools. Once it does this there is no injector pulse and no fire to the plugs
  • loneviperloneviper Member Posts: 1
    Hello hopefully you can answer my question and future ones I have, so lets get to it. My question is about my 1984 gmc s-15 gypsy and when I go to start it, it does not turnover. I just recently (actually 2 years ago) put a starter in it and I'm not sure if I have hooked up the starter right. The light that is a circle with a line in it (I believe it was) will light up so I think its referring to the starter. And i have 4 wires on the starter and I don't know if there was another or not or if the three on the big bolt (as I call it) were put in proper order if there even is one. I've had it for 4 years and I haven't driven it since I put in the new starter but that's because I don't think it was hooked up right. Well if you made it through I thank you for taking the time to read this and I'd appreciate a reply to this thank you. ;)
  • billdarchbilldarch Member Posts: 11
    Im having some vibration in driveline on 2.5 l with 176k on it.. Clutch grabs fine- just replaced plugs, wires, cap rotor, fuel filter, air filter- occurs at mid-upper rpm with engine under load- most noticeable in 3rd gear and lower end of 4th gear-- feels similar to being in too high of a gear for current speed -- any similar problems or clues as to how to diagnose this?
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