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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I have repaired rusted thru tanks with a 2 part epoxy like pc-7 thats still not leaking after 13 yrs.If its not rusted too bad wire brush it then prime & paint.
  • cajun626cajun626 Posts: 54
    ryanbab - it's a '97. Joe said earlier that they went plastic in '00 or '01.

    joe - It appears to be light surface rust. Would something like high-heat rust-oleum do the trick, and does that serve as prime and paint?
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    As long as its a moisture sealer its ok,primer doesn't seal to good so you have to paint over it.You will know next spring if it worked.
  • aarons10aarons10 Posts: 1
    i have a 84 chevy S-10 and with 45k on the motor
    and a new crankshaft i still have problems with the $%#* thing. For starters i have put 87 octane gas in the truck since ive owned it and every now and then it will want to act up. Just a while ago i was on my way to work and i felt a little jerk when i was sitting at a red light and looked and i was smoking like a chimney.I pulled over at a gas station and give it a little throttle and out came the biggest puff of black smoke ive ever seen.So i thought it was just some bad gas so i went on and then as soon as i pulled back onto the street the thing went dead.I had to put the gas to the floor to get it to turn over.when it did it was running like [non-permissible content removed].I cant have my truck acting like this so if you could please help with my question.Why would it be blowing black smoke and also what can i do to make it stop,and it is idling like it has a 350 but its only a 2.8
  • I have a question regarding the passenger seat on the S10's. My 2000 Ex cab has been in the shop now 5 times because the passenger seat does not lock into place. The service shop fixed it once, but it broke a week later, then they fixed it again, but it only got worst. I am not sure what to do because i don't know if the passenger seat problem could classify as a lemon. I am not familiar with the lemon laws in my state and was just wondering if any of you guys have any advice. I would appreciate any advice, Thanks
  • ricschricsch Posts: 540
    Here's an update on my sister's S10 Blazer and the internal intake gasket leak. The dealer spoke with a GM rep, who said to tear down the engine to see the severity of the damage before they would commit to any assistance(Truck is out of warranty, but has only 47,000 miles) So the shop gets into the engine and finds that coolant has entered into the cylinders, and the service tech and we agreed that rather than rebuild this engine, it would be wise to install a GM crate motor-about the same cost as rebuilding the existing engine. Dealer installed the new engine which comes with a 3yr/50k warranty. GM rep says, after this is done, that the vehicle is out of warranty and they cannot provide any assistance! My sister has only owned GM vehicles, proving she WAS a loyal GM customer. She wasn't looking for a free repair but some assistance from GM but evidently they could care less that she was a loyal customer, as most of our family has owned and still own many GM vehicles. All they would offer at this time is a coupon for $2000 towards the purchase of a new GM vehicle in the next year-well, she just stuck $4k into a new motor, new tires in November, and with 47k, she plans to drive the truck rather than take a large loss, since she'd never recover the expense of the new engine and with the many used Blazers out there, trading is out. The coupon from GM is a joke, we all know they make good profits on these vehicles and in this situation it doesn't make sense!! And you can be assuered her future vehicles will not be GM!! A few things I would like to add-if at the first signs of coolant loss over a short time, and no external signs of leaks, have the engine oil analyzed. Second, I have heard that to reduce emissions, GM has these engines running at higher temps, and the gasket materials used cannot take it-not sure if it's true, but with the problem my sister had with her truck, it seems logical.
  • simpson7simpson7 Posts: 1
    I purchased my S-10 Crew Cab on OCT. 6th of 2001 and up until this point have been very happy with it. I am getting 22-23 mpg on the highway at 65 mph. At 55mph I am getting 25-27 mpg. The finishes on the vehicle are somewhat cheap and the fit on parts is mediocre. But overall has been a reliable vehicle. On April 17th of 2002, I was hand washing the truck and noticed chips in the paint on both of the rear quarter panels, just after the wheel well. It looks like somebody shot it with a shotgun! They appear to be stone chips, but I don't drive on gravel roads with any frequency. After further inspection, I noticed the same type of chips in the hood. I have taken excellent care of this truck up to this point, getting it washed at least once a week (car wash). This was the first hand wash that I've been able to give it and I find this. This truck doesn't even have 9,000 miles on it yet. I expected more from GM than this. I might even be able to accept this, if I were mistreating the vehicle, or if I drove on gravel roads all the time, but I have done nothing but baby this truck. I am just wondering if anyone else has had any similar issues.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    what color truck?
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    it happened in the car wash,dirty felts.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    I have a 1997 S-10 4x4 with 32,000 miles on the clock. This is my winter vehicle, and as such, probably sees a lot more road debris damage that the average truck.
    I, too, have a lot of paint damage. However, I think that it's because today's paints are not as durable as the older finishes were. The EPA has required the manufacturers to remove the VOCs (volatile organic chemicals) from the paints. This is good for the environment, but appears to be really bad for paint durability. Just my $0.02 worth, based on my experience.
    Just as a side note, I have a 1996 Camaro with 42,000 summer miles on it, and quite honestly, it could use a total repaint...all stone chips.
  • hennehenne Posts: 407
    I have been following S-10 boards for a while and even though I dont have an S-10 I do like the powertrain and follow it from time to time just in case I ever want to change to a smaller truck. I noticed no one is complaining about the fuel gauge problem. Did any of you ever find a fix for it?

    Thanks,

    Robert
  • mhgjrmhgjr Posts: 2
    I had a 98 S-10 with 105,600 miles. It was the LS, ex-cab, 4.3 auto, 2wd. I bought the truck in april of 2000 with 95,255 miles. In the 2 years i've owned the truck, 2 minor problems showed up. The first, the 3rd door started to rattle and sqeak, and the 2nd problem was the fan clutch went bad, which i fixed both problems. It has been a great truck, and the only reason I got rid of it was because I could't afford the payments on it anymore. It was still running strong and didn't smoke or leak anything. As far as the gas gauge goes, I think mine worked fine, although the gas milage seemed to decrease, but I think that was because of GM's 100,000 spark plugs. I never replaced them. I just wanted to add this to the post, because I think Chevy still has good trucks.
  • sab7sab7 Posts: 2
    I'm looking at buying a 94 s10 ext cab 4x4 with v6 and 133K miles as a third vehicle/work truck. Anything in particular I should watch out for?

    Thanks.
  • farroyofarroyo Posts: 1
    AC condenser won't drain. I keep hearing water noise splashing inside the truck. I can't find the drain hose. Have any of you fix this problem?
  • tdcumminstdcummins Posts: 1
    Hey folks,

    I am a young and impressionable new 2001 S-10 2.2L automatic owner. I have owned 2 other Chevy products (albeit used), that I thought were wonderful and easy to fix. I am still in the honeymoon with the S-10, so I am hopeful. I have 6500 miles and no prob until I start to here this funny whining noise when I accelerate from 1-2 or 2-3. For the first time I also heard it when I put the truck in cruise control and the engine had to work hard to maintain 65 mph the whining begins and goes away after the engine has plateaued rpms. I took the truck to the dealership and the tech tells me it is a vibration problem from the engine (not the transmission?!?!??). He says GM has no bulletin
    and I must be the first with this problem (2 year old truck, I'm the first). The truck is under warranty for 2.5 more years. He says they will "check" with the engineers in Detroit, go figure.
    I don't push the truck hard so I assume this must be a factory defect. It has had regular oil changes (3K) and tires rotated etc.. Anyone have any advice?

    Thanks for any help
  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    tdcummins: You didn't say if your truck was an extended cab, or where the noise was coming from. If it is an extended cab, have the dealership check the drive shaft. The extended trucks use a split (two section) drive shaft because of the truck's extra length. I've heard of some drive shafts coming out of the factory out of balance. If the whine sounds like it is under your feet, consider a transmission problem. If it sounds like it is coming from the engine, I would look at the water pump, power steering pump, serpentine belt tensioner or alternator. ANY whine in a machine is not good--it suggests there is metal-to-metal contact somewhere. That is always bad because it will lead to premature failure of one or several parts.

    ricsch: Sorry to hear GM is not giving you any help on your '97 Blazer's bad engine. GM seems to be trying to pinch pennys, but they end up making enemies. Any good marketer will tell you that a satisfied customer will talk to a few people, but a ticked off customer talks to EVERYBODY! This forum proves that. The few thousand dollars GM saved on a new engine cost them at least one future customer (you) and potentially many more. You may want to talk to a lawyer, letting him know what was said. The communications between GM and your dealer may have implied that GM was going to cover some or all of the costs. If so, a trip to the courthouse will cost them a lot more than the price of a new engine.

    meysterman: My 2000 S-10 extended cab has the same problem with the seat. I will be taking it back to the dealer I use to get them to fix it, among other things. I'll let you know what he does to fix it. Keep after your dealer to fix it. The seat not locking in place is a violation of Federal vehicle safety standards and a huge safety risk. If someone were in the seat during an accident, the seat coming unlocked could prove to be fatal. If Chevy doesn't get mine right, I will be talking to the NHTSA about the defect.

    By the way, the dealer I use for service is NOT the one I bought the truck from. The selling dealer's service department thinks customer service means you argue with the customer to convince him his truck ISN'T broken, rather than fixing the problem. Since they were the problem, and there are a gazillion Chevy dealers here in San Antonio, I fixed the problem by finding a dealership that listens to customers.

    Good luck to all! The S-10 is a great truck, but like any vehicle, they do have a few quirks.

    Joe
  • I have a 1996 S-10 with A/C that is not cooling properly. I have checked the freon level with a gauge and it is properly charged. The compressor is also engaging. It seems to blow cool at times and other times not. Has anyone had this problem and what was the solution. I have been told it could be the expansion valve. Thanks for any comments.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Has no txv,i would say you low on 134a.What are your low & high pressures & outside air temp & at what rpm did you check the pressures at.
  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    Keep in mind that 134a pressures are much higher than the old R-12 readings. If you are using an R-12 table or chart for the readings, the pressure could be low for 134a readings. Also, check the fan clutch for failure. A bad clutch won't keep enough air flowing through the condensor on hot days at low speeds. IF you have a proper charge of freon (should be 134a on a '96) and the compressor is engaging, then you may have one of two problems:

    1) The heater blend door in the air box in the cab is not opening and closing properly. Let the glove box door hang down (there should be a release to let it come all the way down in the upper left corner of the glove box) and move the A/C control from max A/C to the regular A/C position. If you can't see the door moving, it is stuck, or the vacuum line came off.

    2) The valve that controls hot water going into the heater coil may be broken, allowing hot water to flow through the heater year 'round. If so, your A/C is working, it just can't compete with high outside temps AND a heater on full blast.

    Good luck!

    Joe
  • cajun626cajun626 Posts: 54
    The owner's manual for my 2WD '97 recommends CHECKING the differential fluid level at certain intervals. I'm at 41K miles. My dealer told me today that I should have already changed the fluid. I've taken several non-GM vehicles over 100K miles without changing diff fluid. Any recommendations?
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