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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    I have repaired rusted thru tanks with a 2 part epoxy like pc-7 thats still not leaking after 13 yrs.If its not rusted too bad wire brush it then prime & paint.
  • cajun626cajun626 Member Posts: 54
    ryanbab - it's a '97. Joe said earlier that they went plastic in '00 or '01.

    joe - It appears to be light surface rust. Would something like high-heat rust-oleum do the trick, and does that serve as prime and paint?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    As long as its a moisture sealer its ok,primer doesn't seal to good so you have to paint over it.You will know next spring if it worked.
  • aarons10aarons10 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 84 chevy S-10 and with 45k on the motor
    and a new crankshaft i still have problems with the $%#* thing. For starters i have put 87 octane gas in the truck since ive owned it and every now and then it will want to act up. Just a while ago i was on my way to work and i felt a little jerk when i was sitting at a red light and looked and i was smoking like a chimney.I pulled over at a gas station and give it a little throttle and out came the biggest puff of black smoke ive ever seen.So i thought it was just some bad gas so i went on and then as soon as i pulled back onto the street the thing went dead.I had to put the gas to the floor to get it to turn over.when it did it was running like [non-permissible content removed].I cant have my truck acting like this so if you could please help with my question.Why would it be blowing black smoke and also what can i do to make it stop,and it is idling like it has a 350 but its only a 2.8
  • meystermanmeysterman Member Posts: 2
    I have a question regarding the passenger seat on the S10's. My 2000 Ex cab has been in the shop now 5 times because the passenger seat does not lock into place. The service shop fixed it once, but it broke a week later, then they fixed it again, but it only got worst. I am not sure what to do because i don't know if the passenger seat problem could classify as a lemon. I am not familiar with the lemon laws in my state and was just wondering if any of you guys have any advice. I would appreciate any advice, Thanks
  • ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    Here's an update on my sister's S10 Blazer and the internal intake gasket leak. The dealer spoke with a GM rep, who said to tear down the engine to see the severity of the damage before they would commit to any assistance(Truck is out of warranty, but has only 47,000 miles) So the shop gets into the engine and finds that coolant has entered into the cylinders, and the service tech and we agreed that rather than rebuild this engine, it would be wise to install a GM crate motor-about the same cost as rebuilding the existing engine. Dealer installed the new engine which comes with a 3yr/50k warranty. GM rep says, after this is done, that the vehicle is out of warranty and they cannot provide any assistance! My sister has only owned GM vehicles, proving she WAS a loyal GM customer. She wasn't looking for a free repair but some assistance from GM but evidently they could care less that she was a loyal customer, as most of our family has owned and still own many GM vehicles. All they would offer at this time is a coupon for $2000 towards the purchase of a new GM vehicle in the next year-well, she just stuck $4k into a new motor, new tires in November, and with 47k, she plans to drive the truck rather than take a large loss, since she'd never recover the expense of the new engine and with the many used Blazers out there, trading is out. The coupon from GM is a joke, we all know they make good profits on these vehicles and in this situation it doesn't make sense!! And you can be assuered her future vehicles will not be GM!! A few things I would like to add-if at the first signs of coolant loss over a short time, and no external signs of leaks, have the engine oil analyzed. Second, I have heard that to reduce emissions, GM has these engines running at higher temps, and the gasket materials used cannot take it-not sure if it's true, but with the problem my sister had with her truck, it seems logical.
  • simpson7simpson7 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased my S-10 Crew Cab on OCT. 6th of 2001 and up until this point have been very happy with it. I am getting 22-23 mpg on the highway at 65 mph. At 55mph I am getting 25-27 mpg. The finishes on the vehicle are somewhat cheap and the fit on parts is mediocre. But overall has been a reliable vehicle. On April 17th of 2002, I was hand washing the truck and noticed chips in the paint on both of the rear quarter panels, just after the wheel well. It looks like somebody shot it with a shotgun! They appear to be stone chips, but I don't drive on gravel roads with any frequency. After further inspection, I noticed the same type of chips in the hood. I have taken excellent care of this truck up to this point, getting it washed at least once a week (car wash). This was the first hand wash that I've been able to give it and I find this. This truck doesn't even have 9,000 miles on it yet. I expected more from GM than this. I might even be able to accept this, if I were mistreating the vehicle, or if I drove on gravel roads all the time, but I have done nothing but baby this truck. I am just wondering if anyone else has had any similar issues.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    what color truck?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    it happened in the car wash,dirty felts.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    I have a 1997 S-10 4x4 with 32,000 miles on the clock. This is my winter vehicle, and as such, probably sees a lot more road debris damage that the average truck.
    I, too, have a lot of paint damage. However, I think that it's because today's paints are not as durable as the older finishes were. The EPA has required the manufacturers to remove the VOCs (volatile organic chemicals) from the paints. This is good for the environment, but appears to be really bad for paint durability. Just my $0.02 worth, based on my experience.
    Just as a side note, I have a 1996 Camaro with 42,000 summer miles on it, and quite honestly, it could use a total repaint...all stone chips.
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    I have been following S-10 boards for a while and even though I dont have an S-10 I do like the powertrain and follow it from time to time just in case I ever want to change to a smaller truck. I noticed no one is complaining about the fuel gauge problem. Did any of you ever find a fix for it?

    Thanks,

    Robert
  • mhgjrmhgjr Member Posts: 2
    I had a 98 S-10 with 105,600 miles. It was the LS, ex-cab, 4.3 auto, 2wd. I bought the truck in april of 2000 with 95,255 miles. In the 2 years i've owned the truck, 2 minor problems showed up. The first, the 3rd door started to rattle and sqeak, and the 2nd problem was the fan clutch went bad, which i fixed both problems. It has been a great truck, and the only reason I got rid of it was because I could't afford the payments on it anymore. It was still running strong and didn't smoke or leak anything. As far as the gas gauge goes, I think mine worked fine, although the gas milage seemed to decrease, but I think that was because of GM's 100,000 spark plugs. I never replaced them. I just wanted to add this to the post, because I think Chevy still has good trucks.
  • sab7sab7 Member Posts: 2
    I'm looking at buying a 94 s10 ext cab 4x4 with v6 and 133K miles as a third vehicle/work truck. Anything in particular I should watch out for?

    Thanks.
  • farroyofarroyo Member Posts: 1
    AC condenser won't drain. I keep hearing water noise splashing inside the truck. I can't find the drain hose. Have any of you fix this problem?
  • tdcumminstdcummins Member Posts: 1
    Hey folks,

    I am a young and impressionable new 2001 S-10 2.2L automatic owner. I have owned 2 other Chevy products (albeit used), that I thought were wonderful and easy to fix. I am still in the honeymoon with the S-10, so I am hopeful. I have 6500 miles and no prob until I start to here this funny whining noise when I accelerate from 1-2 or 2-3. For the first time I also heard it when I put the truck in cruise control and the engine had to work hard to maintain 65 mph the whining begins and goes away after the engine has plateaued rpms. I took the truck to the dealership and the tech tells me it is a vibration problem from the engine (not the transmission?!?!??). He says GM has no bulletin
    and I must be the first with this problem (2 year old truck, I'm the first). The truck is under warranty for 2.5 more years. He says they will "check" with the engineers in Detroit, go figure.
    I don't push the truck hard so I assume this must be a factory defect. It has had regular oil changes (3K) and tires rotated etc.. Anyone have any advice?

    Thanks for any help
  • PAmanPAman Member Posts: 207
    tdcummins: You didn't say if your truck was an extended cab, or where the noise was coming from. If it is an extended cab, have the dealership check the drive shaft. The extended trucks use a split (two section) drive shaft because of the truck's extra length. I've heard of some drive shafts coming out of the factory out of balance. If the whine sounds like it is under your feet, consider a transmission problem. If it sounds like it is coming from the engine, I would look at the water pump, power steering pump, serpentine belt tensioner or alternator. ANY whine in a machine is not good--it suggests there is metal-to-metal contact somewhere. That is always bad because it will lead to premature failure of one or several parts.

    ricsch: Sorry to hear GM is not giving you any help on your '97 Blazer's bad engine. GM seems to be trying to pinch pennys, but they end up making enemies. Any good marketer will tell you that a satisfied customer will talk to a few people, but a ticked off customer talks to EVERYBODY! This forum proves that. The few thousand dollars GM saved on a new engine cost them at least one future customer (you) and potentially many more. You may want to talk to a lawyer, letting him know what was said. The communications between GM and your dealer may have implied that GM was going to cover some or all of the costs. If so, a trip to the courthouse will cost them a lot more than the price of a new engine.

    meysterman: My 2000 S-10 extended cab has the same problem with the seat. I will be taking it back to the dealer I use to get them to fix it, among other things. I'll let you know what he does to fix it. Keep after your dealer to fix it. The seat not locking in place is a violation of Federal vehicle safety standards and a huge safety risk. If someone were in the seat during an accident, the seat coming unlocked could prove to be fatal. If Chevy doesn't get mine right, I will be talking to the NHTSA about the defect.

    By the way, the dealer I use for service is NOT the one I bought the truck from. The selling dealer's service department thinks customer service means you argue with the customer to convince him his truck ISN'T broken, rather than fixing the problem. Since they were the problem, and there are a gazillion Chevy dealers here in San Antonio, I fixed the problem by finding a dealership that listens to customers.

    Good luck to all! The S-10 is a great truck, but like any vehicle, they do have a few quirks.

    Joe
  • ealexand46ealexand46 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1996 S-10 with A/C that is not cooling properly. I have checked the freon level with a gauge and it is properly charged. The compressor is also engaging. It seems to blow cool at times and other times not. Has anyone had this problem and what was the solution. I have been told it could be the expansion valve. Thanks for any comments.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Has no txv,i would say you low on 134a.What are your low & high pressures & outside air temp & at what rpm did you check the pressures at.
  • PAmanPAman Member Posts: 207
    Keep in mind that 134a pressures are much higher than the old R-12 readings. If you are using an R-12 table or chart for the readings, the pressure could be low for 134a readings. Also, check the fan clutch for failure. A bad clutch won't keep enough air flowing through the condensor on hot days at low speeds. IF you have a proper charge of freon (should be 134a on a '96) and the compressor is engaging, then you may have one of two problems:

    1) The heater blend door in the air box in the cab is not opening and closing properly. Let the glove box door hang down (there should be a release to let it come all the way down in the upper left corner of the glove box) and move the A/C control from max A/C to the regular A/C position. If you can't see the door moving, it is stuck, or the vacuum line came off.

    2) The valve that controls hot water going into the heater coil may be broken, allowing hot water to flow through the heater year 'round. If so, your A/C is working, it just can't compete with high outside temps AND a heater on full blast.

    Good luck!

    Joe
  • cajun626cajun626 Member Posts: 54
    The owner's manual for my 2WD '97 recommends CHECKING the differential fluid level at certain intervals. I'm at 41K miles. My dealer told me today that I should have already changed the fluid. I've taken several non-GM vehicles over 100K miles without changing diff fluid. Any recommendations?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    As far as I know there is no GM recommended fluid change,I looked in the owners & Service Manual.If I planned to keep it I would change it at 100K.I have a 2 wd 99 Sonoma.
  • PAmanPAman Member Posts: 207
    Do it yourself with synthetic fluid and save a LOT of money over what the dealer would charge.

    Joe
  • jlkiljlkil Member Posts: 18
    my '99 Sonoma (couldn't find a sonoma board, so here I am) has the service engine light coming on ONLY when I travel in hilly country. It's a 2.2L Automatic and has 51,000 on it. Usually after I get back on level ground it will go out. First time it happened, I had just bought some gas, so figured it was a fuel related problem. Had the code checked one time and said the trans was slipping. Why would driving up a hill without a load cause this?
    Between this, no performance and my 21MPG hiway, I am ready for a car.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    If the transmission has not been overheated a trans shop can repair it fairly easily with a spring kit,the valve body will have to come down.

    I keep up on this stuff I have a 99 Son 2.2 auto & air with 32K.I get between 25 & 29 mpg highway,the difference is how fast.
  • cajun626cajun626 Member Posts: 54
    I asked several s10 boards about the interval for the diff fluid change. Since I got replies anywhere from every 3K to never, I said screw it and changed it this weekend. It cost < $15 (with synth fluid) and a couple of messy hands, so I think it was worth it. Easy job, even with the wheels not jacked up. Probably won't even think about changing it again until >100K.

    Advance Auto Parts didn't have the gasket (Autozone had it), and the guy told me "maybe it doesn't need a gasket". Then his boss said "ah, you don't need a gasket, just slap some adhesive on the cover". The best part is their people????
  • eoghaneoghan Member Posts: 4
  • eoghaneoghan Member Posts: 4
    Recently purchased this unit and find I am only getting 16 mpg. Have had others similarly equipped and got 18-20 mpg. Think I can expect better after break in or is something wrong. I only have 1800 miles on it. Also the rear end on this one is bouncier than others. I previously had 235/70 Michelins and now have 235/75 Goodyears. Brakes on the new one(all discs) are much improved as is the fit and finish of most details.
  • meystermanmeysterman Member Posts: 2
    PAman - I have taken my truck back to the dealer about 5 times now. They have replaced the rails, and the seat adjusters. The locking problem was fixed but now if the seat is moved foward to place something in the back, it takes an excessive amount of force to lock it back in place. The dealter says that that is normal, but when they gave us a loaner s10 the seat would lock back with no effort at all. Please tell me if they fixed yours and what they changed or replaced. Thanks
  • PAmanPAman Member Posts: 207
    I took mine to Ancira Chevrolet in San Antonio. I've had very good luck with their service department. On the invoice, the tech said he removed, lubricated and adjusted the mechanism. I don't have the copy here in front of me, but I don't believe he had to replace anything, such as a spring or track assembly. Now, the seat seems to work exactly as it should, whether going forward to put something in the back, or locking in place when I slide it back.

    If your truck is out of warranty, or if the dealer doesn't seem to be able to fix it to your satisfaction, I suggest you take it to an auto upholstery shop. They probably work on more seat assemblies in a month than the dealer does in a year. If lubricating and adjusting the track is all yours needs, then they probably can fix it while you wait.

    Hope this helps!

    Joe
  • ddavis001ddavis001 Member Posts: 14
    According to my dealer, I should have had my fluid changed at 30k miles?? I don't remember seeing this in the manual??
  • ddavis001ddavis001 Member Posts: 14
    I have now had my Sonoma for 48k miles. I had the differential and tranny fluid changed at 45k miles -- 5k earlier than the manual says, I believe.

    Anyway, to the point. A few weeks ago, I started hearing a low groaning coming from the rear. The noise has gotten worse. The noise seems to get louder, the faster I go... with max noise between 65mph and 70mph. When I'm on a smaller two lane road, I can hear the noise some, but if I turn LEFT, the noise reduces greatly... but when I turn to the right, the noise gets louder??

    Right now, the dealership is telling me "It could be the rear axle bearings but we won't know for sure until we tear it down and look at it." Does this sound right, at all?? Also, my service advisor tells me if this is the problem, the cost for repair could be between $1100 and $1600. Ouch

    Ideas? A friend of mine seems to think the noise sounds more like a transmission mount or wheel bearing noise?

    I need some help. The dealership is going to call me again, tomorrow, to see if they want me to work on it.

    Tx.
    - ddavis
  • janel84janel84 Member Posts: 3
    I just got a new S-10 6cyl. It has 35 miles on it. I've had Chevy's before that I ran to 205K and 185K miles, without valve jobs or any expensive engine problems, so I know to do most maintenance things pretty well. I did have to replace a transmission once at 130K, but it was one that had been recalled. Is there anything that anyone recommends I do now from the beginning? as I plan to keep this sweet truck a long time. Should I go now and have the oil changed out to synthetic (never used that before - what are good brands)?
    I plan to do the coolant flush way before the recommended. And I know about repacking wheel bearings after going thru high water. If anyone has any suggestions, especially from any "wish I'd known that" situations, I'd appreciate hearing.
    Thanks, Janel
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Sounds like axle bearing,I would be curious to know how much 80W-90 is in the diff.

    The $1100-$1600 is a diff. rebuild,check the fluid level.
  • jjstokes0430jjstokes0430 Member Posts: 16
    I still have the same two problems that I have had since new. Truck is a 2000 4cyl Sonoma with a 5 speed stick. In neutral with the engine running and foot off the clutch the transmission sounds like marbles rolling around. Also sometimes sticks coming out of second into third and lately from third to fourth. Dealer of course says all is normal. Has also developed an engine rattle when cold. Any suggestions.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    WEll the j-body forum posts a lot about the trans noise,I think the factory is using a different trans oil to try to cure the problem.
    I have 2000 2.2 same engine but in a Cavalier that has developed the piston rattle when cold,they must have come off the same production line.I guess I will call the dealer monday and see what they say.
  • joemilanjoemilan Member Posts: 6
    I was interested on some info about the S10 timing chain. I have a 4.3L V6 4WD. If this chain breaks, are you simply left stranded, or will engine damage occur as a result. I have 71K on the truck with no real problems, and don't want to have something like that cause any.

    Thanks
  • joemilanjoemilan Member Posts: 6
    Twice in the last 3 months I have had the SERVICE ENGINE SOON Light come on. I took the truck to AutoZone both times to have the code read. It is 00042 (Evaporative Emissions Slight leak detected). What is that and is it an urgent problem.. Each time I have hade the code erased and the truck will go a couple months before it shows up again.

    Thanks
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    A loose or poorly sealed gas cap will cause the code.
  • cajun626cajun626 Member Posts: 54
    joe3891 is right - if your gas cap isn't on tight, it will light up the good ol' check engine light. Learned that $$ lesson the hard way!
  • PAmanPAman Member Posts: 207
    Janel: I have a 2000 S10 with the 4.3 engine that I've had since new. I recommend you go to about 1,000 miles and change the oil. This gets any small metal pieces left in during manufacturing or that wore off during break in out of the engine. Check the drain plug tip when you change it--there is a magnet mounted on the tip, and if there are any metal filings, they will stick to the drain plug. Then, go to 5K-6K miles and switch from regular oil to synthetic. This will keep the inside of the engine like new for at least 175K-200K miles. While the synthetic is more expensive, you can extend the oil changes out to what some call a 5/10 cycle. What that means is that after changing over to synthetic, go to 5K miles, change the filter and top off the oil. Then go another 5K to a total of 10K miles, and change both the oil and the filter.

    Joemilan: As far as the timing chain goes, if you do what I recommended to janel and go to synthetic oil, you will probably never have a problem with the chain. If it does break, it shouldn't cause any problems. The 4.3 engine is basically a 350 cubic inch V-8 with two cylinders chopped off. That engine is one of the best and longest lasting engines GM has ever made. It has plenty of clearance in the cylinders for the valves to clear the tops of the pistons if the chain does snap.

    jjstokes0430: Check the owner's manual and then check the transmission to see what kind of fluid is in it. I've heard stories of the manual calling for ATF fluid in a manual (yes, many manuals now have ATF in them) while the factory may have put 10W30 oil in the tranny. If your manual calls for 10W30 oil, try changing it to a 20W50 synthetic oil. If that doesn't help, you may want to try another dealer or a tranny shop for another opinion. If you work on your own truck, you may want to put the truck on a lift, start it and then look at the linkage. You may have a loose or rattling piece of the clutch linkage or a cable rubbing against the floorboard, causing the noise. I haven't heard too many problems about the 5-speed trannys lately, but they did have trouble with them several years ago. At one time, the tranny was made by Suzuki for Chevrolet, and it wasn't holding up well. I know of one guy that had so much trouble with it while it was under warranty, that he was able to force Chevy to buy back the truck.

    Good luck to all!

    Joe
  • mr5by5mr5by5 Member Posts: 11
    I haven't looked here in a long time but I did note that somebody was looking for my earlier post on wiper control circuit board problems with the '94 S-10.
    What I found was that the solder-joints on connector pins on the board were "cold" (dull color on surface of solder and cracks around pins you can see with magnifying glass). This causes the wiper motor to operate intermittntly - sometimes appears to be heat related (worse when warm under the hood), you might also be able to get the wiper to run sometimes by wiggling harness close to the motor...
    You can remove the control board from the motor assembly without removing motor (removing the motor is a real pain and the motor is not the problem!). Get a small soldering iron and re-heat the solder around connector pins by touching each pin connection on back of board with a drop of fresh solder. This fixed my wipers - no problems now going-on 3 years! (You can buy new Circuit Board from GM - I think it is $40. The solder repair costs about 5-cents!)
  • janel84janel84 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your advice on the break in - I wondered what I should do when. And, I've never had a timing chain incident with the other Chevy's I drove to around 200K. I religiously had the oil changed But aren't the timing chains plastic now?
    I guess it couldn't hurt to change the trans fluid earlier - when do they start throwing off bits of metal?
    And your comments on the 4.3 6cyl were good to hear. I was scrambling to find one of the last before they come out with their new 6cyl., which I bet has an alum. head.
    Someone talked about a problem with a seat not locking - had that same problem on an Astrovan - passenger seat. Never found a solution - but didn't look too hard , so it's not a new problem - it was an 86.
    And someone was working on a blower fan. Replaced one on the Astrovan and turned out to be a switch under the control on the dash. Easy to replace and took back the new blower fan.
    Before that, junk would fall into it and it'd squeal and hang up as someone had just cut the screen to get to the windshield wiper motor. Fixed the screen and no more problems.
    I had the Hayne's manual on the van, so I could read it and decide if I could do it or before I'd take it in and know that the mechanic was really going through the trouble he said. But, for the engine codes, I found them in a book at the library and zeroxed those pages. Wow - that opened up a whole new world.
    Thanks again, Joe
    Janel
  • cajun626cajun626 Member Posts: 54
    I want to change the manual trans fluid on my 97 s10 xcab 2.2L. My user's manual recommends "GM part 12377916 or equivalent", but the dealer wants $11.00/qt for this crap (need 3 qts.). Any alternatives?
  • PAmanPAman Member Posts: 207
    As for the timing chain question, years ago (late 50's into the early 80's) GM used lots of timing chain sets that consisted of steel gears coated in a nylon plastic material. Most timing chain failures were not the chain breaking; they were caused by that plastic material shattering and letting the chain slip. I'm told that all GM engines using timing chains (belts are another issue) are using all-steel chain and gear sets. That means that with good maintenance, the chains are good for 150K and as much as 200K.

    cajun: If you manual doesn't tell you what that fluid is, go to a good independent shop or parts store and have them check to see what your transmission calls for. The fluid the dealer wants $11 per quart for sounds like a synthetic ATF. If you can't get a straight answer, go to some Internet sites that sell GM parts and order the fluid. Try www.gmpartsdirect.com or do a search for GM dealers on the web using Yahoo or Google. Even if you have to pay $11/quart, just remember that $33 is small change compared to a new tranny.

    Joe
  • go10go4go10go4 Member Posts: 4
    I am shopping for another S-10 used. My last had a 2.8 engine V-6 - EXTREMELY reliable. Almost 200,000 with NO engine repairs. That's no longer available. I'm having a hard time finding a 4.3; almost all seem to have the 2.2 4 cyl. Any experiences with these engines? I have heard the 2.2 is underpowered. Is it durable?
  • ekumenekumen Member Posts: 1
    Just got a 2002 s10 Crew Cab. The passenger seatback exhibits a side to side shake when empty even at low speeds. Is this normal or could it be a defect?
  • cajun626cajun626 Member Posts: 54
    I have a 5spd x-cab with the 2.2L. It's a dog, but on the plus side I average 24 city/29 hwy. It's decent enough if you're just tooling around town. Only problem at 44K miles is a currently leaking valve cover (seems to be common on this engine). Don't even think about getting the 2.2 with an auto trans.
  • PAmanPAman Member Posts: 207
    If you are buying it to be a truck (hauling or towing) the the 2.2 shouldn't even be considered. GM puts the 2.2 in that truck for basically four reasons. One, it helps raise their CAFE, Corporate Average Fuel Economy, which is closely monitored by the EPA bureaucrats. Two, it helps it compete with the four-banger Ranger and Japanese trucks, often advertised as price leaders to get you into the dealership, where they will try to sell you a V-6 or V-8 truck. Three, they sell alot of them to rental car companies and fleets that only use the trucks for light delivery. If you own and operate 500 trucks, a difference in 3-4 MPG makes a huge dent in your budget. Fourth, if the Chevy Cavalier and other lines that use the 2.2 engine are not selling well, GM can easily modify their production line to make the 2.2 engine in a truck configuration (different oil pan and other minor modifications)

    I have the 4.3 in my 2000 S-10 extended cab. Reliable, quiet, never stalls, quits, runs hot or idles rough. It tows and hauls well. It easily breaks the tires loose if I want to, and always 'runs with the big dogs.'

    Based upon comments from owners with the 4.3 engine in the "Older S-10" discussion, this engine easily lasts well over 150K. I'm tired of car payments, so when mine is paid off, I hope to break 300K on synthetic oil before I have to buy another one.

    Good luck.

    Joe
  • ricks57ricks57 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Ext Cab 4wd S10 with 9000 miles on it. There is a noticeable clunk when the transmission upshifts from 2nd to 3rd, especially when accelerating slowly. I have checked all the posts on this board and haven't seen any mention of this. There is a TSB out on this, number 01-07-30-042, but being a consumer I can't find the details for it. Does anyone know anything about this problem? Thanks!
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    D#01-07-30-042
    Information on 2-3 Upshift Clunk Noise

    2002 and Prior Light Duty Trucks

    Equipped with 4L60E Automatic Transmission

    Some vehicles may exhibit a clunk noise that can be heard on a 2-3 upshift.

    During a 2-3 upshift, the 2-4 band is released and the 3-4 clutch is applied. The timing of this shift can cause a momentary torque reversal of the output shaft that results in a clunk noise. This condition may be worse on a 4-wheel drive vehicle due to the additional tolerances in the transfer case.

    This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted.
This discussion has been closed.