Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

canufixit · May 2005

HI,

I posted an earlier message concerning this - so take a look/search. In summary - for about 15 - ~ $19 PER vehicle you can get access to a LOT of the schematics, diagrams, TSB's, recalls, etc., etc. Go to alldata.com and go the the DIY section ...

http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html

Good Luck !!
Canufixit

jake7g · May 2005

try the relays. There are usually two on the firewall for the fuel pump. If the relay is bad the fuel pump will not engage. You msut replace both relays when you replace them. You can see if they are the problem by jumping them. You can take a wire and put it from one pin to another and it should engage the fuel pump. Without seeing your relays I couldn't tell you which pins though.

jake7g · May 2005

also trouble shoot the relays. They may be bad and are preventing the fuel pump from engaging.

morgan1339 · May 2005

My 95 S10 2.2 will start nicely and idle rather bad, But when i accelerate it starts running really rough and will not accelerate then it will completely shut down making a roaring sound.I noticed the back fuel injector is leaking gas...Can someone help me with this
:P

styles · May 2005

Youre problem lies most likley in youre computer. 99+ vortecs used VATS wich makes the truck not start without the correct key. Change youre computer to a 96-97 computer and I bet it starts. You can also have the computer reprogrammed but it costs 300$ or more. You can get a cheap computer from a local junkyard for around 100-200.

vortecowns · May 2005

hey, i recently bought an '03 s10 with 5k miles. i go to college in rochester ny, and was wondering how the brakes on the ls 2wd are in the winter. i always assumed the truck had discs in the front and drums in the back, but i'm not sure, i don't have the truck here right now. and if they do have drums, are there any conversions i can buy for the back? how are they in the snow? thx.

willi1 · May 2005

It runs good at idle for about 10 minutes then reves up high - then dies. Won't start for a couple hours afterward. Code 12 blinks always... reset it and tried again, just blinks 12, nothing else. Sounded like it may be sucking air but can't find a pin hole anywhere. Any other suggestions? Has new wires, plugs, distributer, throttlebody, fuel filter, fuel pickup, oil level is fine, ???? can't figure it out especially with the codes coming back as 12 all the time.

Thanks again!

cowboytaz78 · May 2005

I have a 97 S-10 2.2 and am also having fuel lick from the back fuel injector. I went and got a new injecter and it filled my cylender up with fuel and started licking fuel from the exauste. We pulled it apart and found the new injecter was staying open and sending fuel into the air intake. Do you have any ideas as to what I need to do or what I can do.

dburns · May 2005

how do you go about replacing the wiper controller board on my 97 sonoma

sniz305 · May 2005

I am trying to replace the the door pins on my driver side door and i dont know how to get the old ones off without cutting them and i dont know how to deal with the spring on the top one i have no clue how to move it or get it off is there a trick to it or something please let me know so i can finally fix the door problem i am having

thanks

crazyrunner · May 2005

i have 94 s-10 with the 2.2 i wont to put in a 4.3 im tring to find the correct way to do this. i need mount info,tranny support info ant thing i can get. and if your lookin for a good motor or tranny...e-mail me.

goetsch · May 2005

You will need to get a spring compressor for the door hinge spring and then you can pound the pins out the top goes in from the bottom and the bottom goes in from the top

goetsch · May 2005

PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was driving down the road my wipers slowed down and stopped my radio shut off lights all went off and truck died!!!!!

Alternator was my thought so i pulled it out and it tested out at 14.3 volts when load tested.....The battery is new and i dont know what to do i need this fixed

WHAT CAN I DO?!?!??!!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? :mad:

sniz305 · May 2005

is it a difficult job to do and where can i find a spring compressor that small that it will be able to get in there to compress the spring?

hohohornet · May 2005

new pump new filter truck died on interstate and now im not getting any fuel to the filter? it is a 91 w/ a 2.8 v6 any suggestions?

chevydan04 · May 2005

Hey I just recently purchased a 1998 S10 ZR2 with 54,000 miles on it, The first weekend I owned it I went mudding! This past weekend I went fishing, I took my truck out on the bench, I pushed the button and it blinked but it didn't engage, I have been looking it over and I can not figure out why it wont engage. I know its all electrical, and vaccum and what not. If anyone has had this problem please inform me! I have had nothing but bad luck with this truck.

donproline · May 2005

I have 2003 Sonoma ZR2 Extended Cab with slight grinding from behind dash. Only in low RPM sitting in drive. Did you solve your problem? please email back what the problem was and how to fix it.
Thanks Don

troubleds10 · May 2005

I have a 96 4.3 vortec single cab with around 111,000 miles on it i installed flow master exhaust and good quality sound system, i have been having a serious trouble with my truck not wanting to stay running. i have replace the battery, the whole battery cables, the alternator, fuel filter, gas seemed alil watery so i put iso heet and it ran good for about a week then i started it and after a few minutes it sputters and then dies. ill try it again and it starts in a higher rpm and then sputters again and dies. i try to start it again but nothing. fuel pump is fine i checked the pressure. i cleaned out the manifold and set the throttle to rev higher and i checked all the connections on the driver side under the little box and tightened them down. im at a lost of what to look for, maybe still have the water in fuel issue??? please help i would really appreciate it. :sick:

chevy02 · May 2005

Check out message #647 on page 33. I think that's the same problem . I had that problem too, although I think the dealer fixed it 40000 miles ago and it went away, but it's doing it again occasionally. Perhaps its time for a new valve again...

krisc · May 2005

Hi my name is kris, I'm having a problem with my electrical system alternater good, battery good, but it die's on me like it's the alternater but it's not. Does anyone have a ideal because it don't hit me back please if you do

thank you
kris coffey

dgillis001 · May 2005

I have an 01 Sonoma/sportside or whatever it is-flare/stepside etc and both of my tailgate straps broke. The tension on latch is due to a rod that fits between the handle on tailgate and the latch assembly. In the center of gate, should notice 3 star-bitted screws-remove them then being careful, pop out the plastic rectanguliar piece of trim on the outside of the gate. Once this has been done, you should see 2 rods-one for releasing each side of latch. There is a plastic clip that when undone, will allow rod to pull-out , this will free the handle and latch assembly. Hope I was some help. Doug. dgillis001@comcast.net

busted_limb · May 2005

I have a 2.8 V-6 with no vacuum on the advance when it is idling, but if you rev it up the vacuum starts to rise. Is this correct or should it have vacuum at an idle and decrease as the RPM increases. I may have hooked up the vacuum lines wrong after i had the engine out of it. (I replace most of the gaskets to stop it from leaking oil) Thanks

98zq8 · May 2005

I have a vibration suddenly comming from the driveline. I thought it was the center bearing on my 2wd sonoma zq8. Removed drive shafts and center bearing seems fine, u joints seem fine. Ran motor and put in drive without shafts, no vibe. Put in first short shaft with center bearing, no vibe. Connected second shaft to rear, vibe comes back. Does this mean it's in the rear end? If so, what could it be?

98zq8 · May 2005

I noticed that the spined shaft in the tailshaft housing of my automatic transmission moves around a bit after removing the driveshaft. Is this normal? I don't think this is true of older tranny's. At first I thought this was a completely worn out bearing but maybe it is supposed to move around. Hope someone knows.

neveragainchev · May 2005

Unplug the battery cable, wait 5 minutes, reconnect. It's a chevy thing.

joe3891 · May 2005

Its ok, when the drive shaft is installed the outer part of the shaft set in the housing bushing and is the rear bearing.

bob88vette · May 2005

I have an 83 s10 with a 2.2 and an 87 s10 with a 4.3. I want to put the 4.3 in the 83, as it is in much better condition. Anything in particular I need to know. How much work is it to move all the computer stuff.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Bob

waynorthsonoma · May 2005

turned out to be a pcv valve.........I didnt fix it myself as the truck was still under warranty.....It took them all day to find the problem! Good luck......

canufixit · May 2005

Ok,, What am I missing here ??? ..... I see no previous subject to search for/on, no message Number from a previous site/group - and no previous site /group anyway ..... So how do I see the original post ??

KCRam · May 2005

sorry about that, system carried my post as well as the one that was moved.

kcram - Pickups Host

discreet · May 2005

I have a 94 LS 4x4 with 100,000 Klms. When parked and I leave the vehicle the map lights won't shut off even after an hour. when should I look to fix it?

Thank for any help sorry if I'm posting this wrong

stewart30144 · May 2005

Hi, just had a brake booster fail, replaced it, flushed and bled the brakes, everything works fine, braking is great but the warning light comes on after driving for a few minutes. Checked and there are no trouble codes stored, unplugged teh connection at the warning switch/block and teh light still come on. Any ideas? Thanks!

r05blink · May 2005

I have a 1996 2.2l 2wd s10. At idle, my truck will make a horrible knocking sound and will shake almost like it is missing. Just replaced all injectors and have had the timing checked and changed. I have heard people say that this noise is the lifters sticking, but I do not know.
At speed my truck is like a totally different truck and is very smooth. Seems like this is a very common problem with these 2.2's. I am stumped :confuse: so ANY ideas are greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Ryan

himaintenance · May 2005

It is not that bad of a job provided you get the right pins... as long as you have something underneath the door to support it - most auto parts retailers do carry "door spring compressors" - see - your project even comes with its own tool.

himaintenance · May 2005

I have a gm sonoma that I bought with 100k on it and ever since then it has had a shimmy that occurs around 45mph and then again at around 70mph and above. I have taken it to at least 10 different shops to have the problem diagnosed but no joy. New tires - balanced - aligned - new steering damper - ball joints - you name it. I was just wondering if anyone has an idea as to what else I might try - short of taking it to the dealer and sacrificing my arm and leg.

dustyk · May 2005

On this series truck I know of one and have heard of others that the balancing weight had come off of the drive shaft.

Dusty

rorton · May 2005

I know this is a pickup discussion but the closest I could find to my problem. A couple of months after the clutch was replaced in our 1998 Cavalier Z24 we noticed that the cruise control wasn't working anymore (it hadn't been driven on the freeway where it was used). Can anyone tell me where and how it is connected in case it is something I can reconnect.

Rodger

KCRam · May 2005

Hi Rodger, the place you want to ask is our Chevrolet Cavalier discussion. Remember to use the Browse and Search tools in the left margin to find dicussions for your vehicle.

kcram - Pickups Host

lunchbox1 · May 2005

:confuse: im having crazy problems as well with my 95 s10...the turn signals dont even work, unless you hit the brake then they come on (but dont blink)...whats the deal with that...the switch and relay are fine...when i turn on the turn signal nothing happens but if i hit the brake all 4 turn signals light up as well as the turn signal indicators on my gauge cluster...and they will come on even if my truck is turned off...its freaking me out its like my truck is possessed...please hit me back with an answer if you can...thanx
justin
justinlynnink@yourmom.com

emichael · May 2005

How tight are rocker arm stud nuts on a 1987 S10 with a 2.8 liter engine?

canufixit · May 2005

A Mechanic I know had a late model vehicle - with the same thing. Finally the Dealer called the Factory. The "third brake light" was out and the computer sensed it and prevented the cruse from working .... not sure if this was houey or not - but thought I'd mention it ....

jlleasy · May 2005

Hi, I have a cherry '85 S 10 Ext Cab with the 2.8 engine, close to shot, and the automatic transmission. I use it for a ranch truck and it does great, except for the engine/trans nearly gone. (230,000 miles). I am considering getting a 4.3 Vortec with transmission and all the necessary conversion parts from The S 10 warehouse in Bradenton Fl. and putting them in the pickup. Another option, might be too much trouble but more desirable for me, would be to get the 4.3 Vortec with a manual 5 speed.

My question is: Does anyone have a good idea of how much of a problem this engine swap would be.???? I have swapped engines before - back about 20 years ago - but not since the fuel injection/computer came into widespread use.
Any info you could provide would help me decide. Thanks in advance. JLLEASY

alcan · May 2005

22 ft. lbs.

meat01 · May 2005

Hello..I have a 97 S-10 4.3 that I bought new. It just turned over 60,000 miles. My problem is...I am getting a "random misfire code'" 0300 per OBD. It almost feels as if I bought some bad gas it stutters so much. I have replaced the distributor cap,rotor button, plug wires, plugs, coil,and coil modulator to no avail. The fuel pump is about a year old. Marathon admitted to some bad gas about a year ago that caused many people to have fuel gauge problems. I had the same prior to their annoucement so I replaced fuel pump and sender. I also have replaced the fuel filter and pcv valved as well. Geez reading this makes me want a new truck..LOL..I change the oil every 3000 miles and also add a can of fuel injector cleaner. The dealer repaired an oil leak a month ago (oil pan gasket) and I have had this miss ever since. No other OBD codes on this at all. The dealer as well as another shop could not find a thing. They claimed the fuel pressure was correct as well. But I still have this misfire code. Any ideas or help on this would be appreciated. Feel free to e-mail me with possible solutions. Alpuntin01@aol.com

Thanks

rew · May 2005

I have owned Toyota Pickups in the past but no experience with S-10's. I have the chance to buy a 97 S-10 with 81,000 miles on it. The owner told me he has replaced belts, ignition and fuel pump among other things.

I want to know from those who have owned S-10's if they would buy another, and would anyone suggest I buy one with so many miles on it? Also, what is the like span on an S-10 engine?

bald1 · June 2005

I don't know if this will help but I have an 01' suburban that I bought used.It started using oil real bad so I took it to the dealer under the extended warranty,to make a long story short they tore the motor down and found out all the piston rings were lined up causing the oil consumption witch was deemed a manufacturer defect.The motor was then replaced.

ury · June 2005

My truck has 26,000+ miles on it. Just today, while stopping and going in high traffic and rainy weather, the brakes began acting up. When I slow to 10 miles an hour, it feels like the right brake loses it's grip, and I feel a vibration in the foot pedal and a pull on the steering. Checked fluids - all is well, visually checked for leaks...all looks well.
Backed the truck up and applied firm braking pressure several times and it stopped for several normal brakes, but soon returned with the same problem.

Any suggestions on what might be happening?

littlebuk13 · June 2005

Alas, I have searched all over the net and have yet to find the exact answer I desire and I hope you can help me out. I purchased the vehicle listed above about 6 months ago and when I did the previous owners told me that the transmission had just been serviced and the front axle replaced and the vacuum lines were not connected. Well I got to looking and have discovered not connected means no vacuum actuator and 3 lines just laying there. I have got it down to knowing that there is 2 smaller lines and one larger one and one of the lines has to connect to the vacuum actuator and the other two; I don't even know. I was wondering if you could tell me where the larger line goes and the two other lines go and how to tell which line was which; I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,
Corey

tinytruck · June 2005

Question: My 93 S10 suddenly stalled on me when I parked it (luckily at home) and now won't start at all. It'll try to turn over but won't run. Also, the brake pedal will not move, solid as stepping on brick. Vacuum problem? What other connections are there between the brakes and starting? Ideas anyone?

KCRam · June 2005

Sounds like your caliper is locking up. You need new brake hoses to cure it (and possibly a new caliper).

kcram - Pickups Host

Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions