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Volkswagen Golf Care & Maintenance

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Comments

  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Removing a lot of special 8-point hex bolts, replacing that manifold gasket, etc.

    You will be better off choosing option #1. The cost of getting a flex or swivel socket attachment will be a lot less than the special tools needed to remove the manifold. After looking inside my engine, replacing the inner spark plugs is definitely doable with a flex or swivel socket.
  • zscottiezscottie Member Posts: 23
    Wondering if anyone can recom. a good non-dealer mechanic for my VW. I've got
    an 05 Passat 1.8T 4motion wagon (love it on mountain curves!!) w/ 4K miles. Wonderful car to date.

    I'm in C'ville...so anything in this area would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks.
    :)
  • cam2cam2 Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone teach me a little bit about "decarbonization?" I took my 2002 Passat into the dealership for 40,000 mile maintenance, and they recommended this "decarbonization" process for $170. Since I didn't know anything about it, I declined until I could do a little research. This process isn't listed in the VW manual. Can anyone help me with this?
  • jettagrljettagrl Member Posts: 1
    I'm hoping someone out there can offer an answer to my problem. I own a 2001 Jetta wagon and cannot get the rear lid door to release. I can insert the master key to unlock (turning the key to the left) but once I touch the handle, you can hear the locking mechanism kick in and it automatically locks itself again. It does the same thing when I unlock the car with the toggle button on the driver's door. Is there anything I can do short of taking it to the dealer? Has anyone ever heard of this?
  • rokecarrokecar Member Posts: 1
    Dude, that sounds bad...how was it resolved? My 2001 Jetta just got diagnosed w/ the same problem - "coolant migration" - sounds like something a political action committee would have named. Anyway, my dealership told me I had to pay for it, then came back and offered $1000 toward the repair (out of $2500). I haven't decided yet whether to take it or take further action via the legal/consumer protection route.

    Help.
  • goochmongergoochmonger Member Posts: 1
    I just had the same problem (coolant migration) diagnosed in my 2002 jetta. The dealer recommended I call VW of America about the issue to get support, and I just received a call back today that VW is covering parts and labor 100%. The number to call is 1-800-822-8987. The estimate on my damage was $1,700 but "maybe more". Work through VW Customer Care at the number above and they will call the dealer and get back to you on this issue -- it's a well known problem for them. Don't pay anything until you hear back -- you may be able to get more $!

    Hope this helps (and it's not too late)! :D
  • gunslinger3gunslinger3 Member Posts: 1
    I am currently having a similar problem with my 1997 Audi A4 2.8
    The check engine light came on when I accelerated onto the freeway, the engine sounds fine but will not accelerate.

    I took it to the dealer and they said the error is with the cam positioning sensor. I had it replaced and drove off, while accelerating onto the freeway it happened again.

    I took it back to the dealer, they then told me that coolant leaked through a faulty o ring on the coolant sensor and wicked coolant through the harness and into the ECM.

    I was then told it would cost about $5000.00 to replace the sensor, the harness and the ECM ( OUCH )

    That sounded kind of crazy. I drove the care home, as long as I don't do a hard acceleration the car drives fine in both city and hiway driving.

    Any thoughts or suggestions?

    Thank you
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Take the car to a local mechanic who specializes in German cars or European cars and have them look at it. Once a car is out of warranty, there is no sane reason to take it to the dealer (unless you have a lot of disposable $$$$) when a private mechanic can perform the same diagnostics and repairs for significantly less than what the dealer charges.
  • caine021800caine021800 Member Posts: 2
    Replaced the spark plugs and wires on my 1997 Jetta GT today and all I get out of it is a short start and then it dies. A buddy of mine told me the firing sequence could be off and to find a firing sequence diagram to get them in the right order. I cannot find a diagram of the firing sequence on the distributor. Can any of you help me out with this? Thank you in advance.
  • vicvalvicval Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 1998 VW Jetta that occasionally, the door handles won't open the doors to allow you to get in. There is no rhyme or reason for this (it's not freezing after getting wet, it sometimes happens when it's totally dry). It does seem to happen when it is colder. Sometimes the door won't open after numerous tries, then, for no reason the door will open.

    Please help,
    vicval14
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    The firing order is 1-3-4-2
  • nmrtnmrt Member Posts: 56
    Hello all. I just purchased a 2006 1.8T (not the new 2.0T) two weeks ago. I car is sweeeeet and i love the power :D . i was thinking about oil changes and wanted your opinions. the manual says every 5000 miles. would i be ok if i did it at 5000 miles? i had a 1999 vr6 and use to change the oil at 3000 miles. the car ran like new until i sold it at 165,000 miles.
    also, what kind of oil is good for the 1.8T -- synthetic, blend, or the mineral.

    any suggections will be greatly appreciated. thanks
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    > what kind of oil is good for the 1.8T -- synthetic, blend, or the mineral.

    If you want VW to honor your engine warranty - you must use a motor oil that conforms to the VW 502.00 specification (in other words - synthetic oil only). Here's the official list from VW:

    http://www.vw.com/vwcom/content/objects/pdf/service_maint/oilchart.pdf

    Every oil on the list is synthetic. There are no mineral, dino or synthetic blends. And make sure you change your oil every 5000 miles (it is important that you follow this to the letter - do not go more than 500 miles above this interval)...
  • nmrtnmrt Member Posts: 56
    Thanks for the advie 600kgolfgt. i have been hanunting these forums for more than a year now and have always appreciated you advice to members.

    dont worry ;) i will not exceed the 5000 miles for an oil change.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    > Thanks for the advie 600kgolfgt.

    No problem. More than happy to help.

    One more important tip - use OEM (MANN or a VW-approved MANN equivalent) oil filters ONLY. Do not use one of those cheap aftermarket filters (like FRAM, etc.). The difference in construction is night and day. The OEM filter is designed specifically for your engine, as well as aids in regulating your engine's oil pressure. OEM filters have two steel check-valves inside - one aids in regulating the oil pressure, and the other check valve prevents dirty oil from flowing back into your engine when you switch off the ignition (In comparison, the aftermarket filters have check valves made of rubber to cut costs - you definitely get what you pay for.). If you do your own oil changes, you can purchase the MANN filters either at the dealer or you can find it online (do a google search). As far as the list of approved synthetic oils is concerned, you can find those either at your local auto parts store, or you can order them online.

    Also, AVOID those quick-lube places like the plague. They will more than likely use the cheaper aftermarket filters and/or oil (that doesn't comply with the VW 502.00 specification). Either do the oil changes yourself or take it to the dealer.

    Hope this helps...
  • nmrtnmrt Member Posts: 56
    Thanks again.

    so we are sure that the dealer will use MANN filters? i will definitely ask my dealer what they use.

    on a different note, i really was not enjoying driving my gti that much. on hard turns the car woudl behave abnormally and the ESP woudl turn on. now i know, today i turned the ESP off and man, what a car! with the understeer and the whells sliding the drive now is predicatable and fun!i love this little rocket! :D:)
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    MANN is the manufacturer of the VW OEM filters.
  • david2006david2006 Member Posts: 1
    Spark plug firing order for a 2000 Jetta VR6? Does it really even matter in which order plugs and wires are replaced? I'd like to change the wires/plugs myself, but have never attempted it.
  • susanjunesusanjune Member Posts: 1
    CAn anyone tell how to replace the passenger side head lamp. IT is the middle lamp on the passenger side.

    For 2001 - Passat
    Help,,,,,THanks
  • gina9gina9 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 73 semiautomatic. It has had trouble starting.many times in the past. It will not start now. I have brought it to many mechanics but it just breaks down again. Last time it broke down again after one day! So now I am looking for someone who is really a bug specialist. Maybe mine has trouble due to the semi clutch? The clutch is having problems too but I don't know if that would affect whether it can start or not.
    Did you have any great experiences with a mechanic taking care of your bug?
    Can you recommend someone?

    Thank you.
  • pandessapandessa Member Posts: 1
    My son is trying to cahnge his own wires and plugs, did you ever get an answer for the firing order of the 2000 Jetta VR6?

    Thanks
  • mikew58mikew58 Member Posts: 10
    HI, We just got a 1953MG, Volkwagon w/ a 1969 engine, does anyone know the vaul setting for it, or where we could get a mamual on it?
  • toms16vtoms16v Member Posts: 2
    anyone have answers on getting air out of the cooling system on my 16v? I had to change water pump, thermostat,hoses and cap
  • b_higgins03b_higgins03 Member Posts: 1
    how do you find the chassis number on a 94 golf. i have not been able to find it and i really need a clutch. if someone could help me that would be great. thanks
  • njusanjusa Member Posts: 4
    anybody know how much? or how many hours it would take? to pull a manual transmission out of a 1996 golf and put a rebuilt back in thanks
  • hizzy_gazahizzy_gaza Member Posts: 1
    The diagnostic reading comes out saying that there is a problem with the catalytic converter. This was seven months ago....the car runs fine but the inspection is due next month. The check engine light has remained on throughout this time however it has never blinked but disappeared from time to time for a short while. Is there a sensor around the catalytic converter, and if so could this be the reason for the check engine light? Thanks to anyone who takes the time to read and respond...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is the -CODE- which comes out as being a problem with the catalytic converter.

    Have you run the actual "catalytic converter diagnostics" to see what that tells you?

    .... I am assuming since you know what code is causing the CEL, that you are using VAGCOM or somthing simular.

    If you are not using an engine diagnostics tool such as VAGCOM.... I strongly suggest you locate one of the many generous VAGCOM owners who are more than happy to hook up your car and run some of the diagnostics.

    There are several websites that have State-by-State listings of VAGCOM owners.
  • weeloonweeloon Member Posts: 2
    New to the golf and new to the site, uk golf 1.4 16v 2004 . Oil filter where is it and how to get it out . I,m pretty good mechanically but this one is a mystery
  • weeloonweeloon Member Posts: 2
    Everybody must think I,m stupid , am I right in assuming pan under sump has to be removed and lo and behold oil filter will be exposed . Its cold here waiting for a nice day to attack
  • igallwasigallwas Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I put a LOT of miles on my call (all highway). I have a 2003 VW Golf with 109k miles on it. It's timing belt time, right? Dealer said to do it at 105k miles. Question: Do I have to have the dealer do it? My guys at Merlin said they can do it (one of them used to work at VW), but was honest and said he's only done 2 timing belts. Makes me nervous. I live in Palatine, IL. Any suggestions? Going to cost a lot huh? Also, is there any other major stuff I need to do now? I did the spark plugs at 40k miles. I change the oil regularly and that's about it...oh...and did brakes about a year or 2 ago and they are fine. THANK YOU! I'm a girl living in a mans world...just kidding!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You did not mention which of the 3 gasoline VW engines you have in your Gulf but my answer below goes for any of them.

    Along with TimingBelt, there are a number of other things that should be changed at same time. (they may not go another 100K miles and if they fail, you have to do the TB all over again)

    These other items include;
    *)TB tensionor/pully
    *)WaterPump (some folks opt to install METAL IMPELLER wp)
    *)Oil Seals (crankshaft & camshaft)
    *) Serpentine belt

    You should pull out the phonebook and make a bunch of calls to various shops. Look for shops that claim to specialize in European vehicles.

    Ask pertinent questions like;
    *) How many VW TB they changed last month?
    *) What other items do THEY recommend replacing at same time? (if they do not mention the above, be wary)
  • igallwasigallwas Member Posts: 3
    Hi Everyone,

    Just want to thank everyone for all their help in the past!

    Is replacing the spark plugs on my 2003 VW Golf 2.0L engine a big deal? Can I have my parents small town Mechanic do it who doesn't have really any experience with VW's? He's VERY honest and VERY reliable unlike most of the guys I've found around here in Chicago suburbs. Plus he's a TON cheaper. He thinks he can do it no problem. He turned me down when I asked him to do the timing belt, so I think I can trust he won't bite off more then he can chew. He is extremly smart about engines and cars and is known to fix about anything...

    Anyone think this is a really bad idea? Or have any pointers? I haven't had the plugs chanced since my 40k tune up. I got all the belts done (timing belt, some other ones I don't even know what they do but they said they needed to be changed)...

    Just trying to make it last, cause lord knows we can't afford a new car!

    Isa
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Any competent mechanicaly-minded persons with a swivel-head ratchet extension should have no troubles replacing sparkplugs in a 2.0L VW engine.

    The maint points are;
    *) Do not pull on the sparkplug wires to remove them from the plugs.
    *) Clean area where sparkplugs are BEFORE removing so no crud drops into engine.
    *)Aluminum heads tend to seeze to the sparkplugs... be careful and use some kind of lube while removing.
    *)Use only BOSCH sparkplugs in a VW. (BOSCH invented the sparkplug!!)
    *)Apply antiseze to the new plug threads
  • igallwasigallwas Member Posts: 3
    Thank you so much! I will be sure to relay the message and the good pointers! Much appreciated! Have a great holiday! Isa
  • eclampitteclampitt Member Posts: 1
    Okay so i have a 2002 volkswagen golf 2.0L it has 126,000 miles on it and today the blinker decided to start acting weird.
    so here is the issue i turn the blinker on to turn and when i turn and it does the automatic shut off (or even if i turn it off) it will keep making the noise but faster, mind you the blinker is off!! what is going on? i just got the thing like six months ago :mad: :confuse:
  • dgriffithsdgriffiths Member Posts: 1
    Hi Flyer!
    I have an issue with my drivers side interior door handle. It works in as much it still activates the door lock. Trouble is it dosn't return to it's "flush position", and flaps about annoyingly....there must be a return spring that has gone or become detatched.

    How do I get at it to have a look? has the entire door panel got to come off?

    Regards Dave
  • bumz23bumz23 Member Posts: 1
    How do I drain the Coolant/water from a 1996 VW golf. I can't see a drain plug on the radiator and I cant get the hose off the bottom because there isn't enough room for my hands. I don't have the owner's manuel either so I am stuck. Please help if you can. thanks
  • sfstreetssfstreets Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I had a similar experience with my 200 Golf; it's to alert you that one or more of your turn signal light bulbs needs replacing. Very easy to find those (try Target or similar) and to install :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Even if there WAS a drain petcock on the radiator or you get the lower hose off... you may not get all the antifreeze out because the thermostat may hold most of the antifreeze inside the engine. (You will only drain the radiator.)

    Removing the thermostat is the best way to get it all out. Then install new thermostat and refill with new antifreeze.
  • jreilly7jreilly7 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Just had this problem myself. Had to change the signal light arm assembly. Part about $100 dollars at the dealer, and another $75 labour (1 hour) to change it. Thats it!!

    JR
  • herbh1herbh1 Member Posts: 2
    Didn't realize how old your post was, but I can tell you what the Bentley manual says and a little more. These cars are hard to drain and maybe even harder to re-fill. The manual says to drain by removing connections at the water (coolant) pump. There are three connections at the pump. The lowest is not a hose that clamps onto a bib, but is an o-ring sealed connection to the thermostat cover at the bottom of the pump. There's a wire retaining clip visiblly protruding, and supposedly you can pull that clip out and then break the joint -- after first being sure you have a new o-ring to replace the existing one. Before beginning, you put the heater control on the dashboard to the full heat position and you remove the cover from the plastic globe expansoin chamber where coolant is normally added.

    That's not all. You also disconnect the middle hose connection from the water pump, and that's pretty hard to get to. You may get more of the coolant out, once the connections are broken, by blowing air into that expansion chamber. The thermostat can be removed, but you probably will have to drop the power steering pump down a little after loosening a good number of bolts.

    Refilling the system is possibly harder than draining it. You will probably have to remove the TOP radiator hose connection -- loosen it enough to open a crack that will vent the air from the radiator, before you can get enough coolant into the system. I have one of the special radiator hose clip pliers and would not try to get by without it.
  • grimmo01grimmo01 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone, just after a bit of help!!
    I have a T reg vw golf which i am in the process of selling but before i do i need to fix or replace the dial that that changes where the heat is directed eg windscreen,feet or both, i turn the dial but i doesnt do anything seems to just turn around! Now i dont know if its broken or what but what do i do to fix this problem.
    Hope someone understands what i mean!!!
    Any help would be great.
    Thanks
    Adam
  • greasymonkey3greasymonkey3 Member Posts: 7
    hi i was wondering were to find the thermostat in my car its a 98 i can do the work but first vw iv owned i was told by my local parts store its extremely it doesn't scare me i just dont wanna start taking things apart only to find its not there.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The thermostat on VW 4-cyliner water-cooled engines has been in the same place since the 1980s. (That is because the engine has not changed much.. it is basically the same engine-block) When you have a good engine deesign, there is no need to change it much.

    Since this is a "bypass" type of cooling system , the thermostat is where the LOWER radiator hose connects to the engine-side.
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