Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Wrangler

1…434435437439440…455

Comments

  • jeepgreenjeepgreen Member Posts: 5
    Sorry for the late chime-in. Looks like Crane and Baertrax both make great products, but they both come with hefty price tags as well.
    Poison Spyder make two more great options that are worth your time to check out. For protection to your existing cover, they make the Rock Ring (about $100). If you're looking for a complete replacement cover, for a few dollars more, they make the bigger, beefier Bombshell (about $140).
    I went with the Bombshell. The install was easy and the Bombshell has been just that so far.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The D44 in the front of a Rubi is a Dana 'special' with weakest links that are little stronger than a those of a D30. You have to try fairly hard to break a D30, and when you do it's usually a half shaft or 'U' joint that breaks.

    Maximum tire size in relation to breakage has more to do with your right foot than anything else. Axles usually break when a rapidly spinning and bouncing wheel suddenly gets traction. Some people happily run 37's with the D44, while others regularly break things with 33's. I would say your tire choices are going to be more restricted by any decision on a lift, rather than by axle type.

    Finally, warranties have more to do with marketing than anything else at the moment. The powertrain warranty used to be 7/70, but as a manufacturer why incur that extra expenditure if you can sell every vehicle you produce. You can always buy an aftermarket warranty if you feel insecure. Otherwise, invest the same amount of money in a maintenance fund.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    As a general rule on TJ's, 35's are generally considered the 'norm' max size for 44's, but I've seen people run larger 37's on em.

    As Tom mentioned, driver habit is a BIG deciding factor. If you are seriously into the skinny pedal while on obstacles, 33's may be your effective max size, while somebody who is lighter on the pedal may get away with 37's or even 39's (if properly geared).

    I have 33's on my D35, but it has upgraded shafts too.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The pros and cons of transmission types are pretty much a wash for the Wrangler.

    The auto works well offroad and saves you from having to use a third foot that a manual sometime requires. The only downside offroad is a reduction in compression braking when going downhill.

    On road, the differences are the same as for any vehicle. The gas mileage will be a little worse, as will acceleration.

    Neither is better or worse than the other, just different.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    We're trying to simplify the Wrangler boards a bit and some of the posts (especially the maintenance ones) have been moved. Our software doesn't like to keep the dates straight so some of the threads are out of sequence, so please just skip over that (ok maybe some of it is operator error, give an old CJ-5'er a break). :shades:

    If you find yourself rereading old posts, please use the Mark As Read button to get caught up. Thanks!
  • 4rider4rider Member Posts: 96
    I had the same question before I bought my Jeep. My experience on my Auto so far is that the street performance is quite ok. A lot of the "slow going" I have been feeling is actully due to, partially, the farily loud engine noise which makes me feel it is slower than it actually is.

    On the trail, I am suprisingly to find out with 1st gear and low range, it gives me more than enough power to climb or to move at crawl speed on rough terrian with complete control and no stalling. This is exactly what I want. With manual, you would probably need the help from a hand throtle to achieve the similar level of control. By then again, individual preference is still the main dermining factor.
  • diegotexeradiegotexera Member Posts: 11
    Hello again...i have a question regarding tires (re: my last post). I have 325/60-15 (30.5x12.9) BFG AT's and i love them. My wheels are AR 15x10 w/ -38 offset (I'm pretty sure). My suspension is stock and I've removed the "boxing gloves" so I've got plenty of room up front. So how big can i go? Can i go with 33x12.5? My tire size no longer exists in the All-Terrain tire and I don't do enough off roading to justify the Mud TA. I also don't want to go back to 9.5" wide wheels...or get any smaller (not like the BFG comes in any other size anyway).

    So.....help.....I am now riding around on near-bald tires and slip n' slide in the WalMart parking lot has lost it's thrill.

    Diego
    ...life is good :P
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I don't understand your offset figure so go here: Tom's definitive backspacing post, to check out how to measure it.

    If you don't need full articulation of your suspension, i.e. you're going to drive highway only, then you can go to 33x12.5. However, if you want to continue offroading then 31x10.5s or possibly 32x11.5s will be most useful to you without a lift. The 32x11.5s are better suited to your rim width but you will get some fender rubbing on full flex. The 31x10.5s will be a little stretched on your 10" rims but their overall diameter will give better body clearance. Rubbing at full lock shouldn't be a problem as you seem to have decreased backspacing. Unless you do a lot of heavy mudding you'll be pleased with the BFG AT KOs.
  • diegotexeradiegotexera Member Posts: 11
    I've been looking around and I found some BFG AT's in 32x11.5r15 and the price is right. Do you think they will fit well without much articulation loss? I don't want to be limited...I would consider getting a 1" body lift, but then what is the cheapest bang for the buck? Not too sure about those coil spacer things. Seems like they can come out if I catch air on one of my trail runs. btw, for all interested in off-road racing, there are some lovely dirt straights in the homestead farm roads :)!

    thanks again!

    Diego
    ...beepbeep/wave
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I've been looking around and I found some BFG AT's in 32x11.5r15 and the price is right. Do you think they will fit well without much articulation loss?

    Hmmm.....didn't I just answer that very question for you in the post immediately prior to yours?

    If you like driving rutted trails at speed then seriously consider the OME suspension lift. Those are the conditions it was originally designed for.
  • diegotexeradiegotexera Member Posts: 11
    yes you did answer...and i realized that after i wrote back....ergh....

    as for trails...yes, i like to toss it around at speed. Safely, but always at max speed down those semi-smooth dirt roads. I would have an off road subaru impreza WRX if i could....heehee

    thanks for your help again
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    I've been AWOL for a while. I'm delighted that Edmunds backed off on splitting up the Wrangler board - we've always had so much fun here, good to see things are/have gotten back to normal. It's taken me a while to get caught up in the couple of months that I've been involved with other things (but that's OK, I've got a bug that's kept me home, with extra time on my hands). I can't believe that the last time I was here was October!

    We're back to using the Unlimited as our daily driver ('04, 85,000 miles) - we found out the hard way that bicycles on freeways don't do nice things to low clearance vehicles. At least we don't have to worry about the roads - we've had snow several times all ready. The only adjustment has been to our budget - going from 36+ average mpg with the Fit to the 17+ (if its not windy) with the Unlimited is hard to take (sigh).
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I was worried we'd lost you when the forum was closed a few months back.

    I am glad to see you back! :)
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Welcome back! :)

    tidester, host
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    heck yeah. The old-school crew rolls on. BTW, what did you get for your '98 Sport when you sold it?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Good to see you back!

    -Paul
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    Let me think about that - I've forgotten (arrh, the mind goes with age). I know it was more than I had originally planned on asking for it (until I looked here and elsewhere for used prices) but less than what I had advertised it for. It was more than the resellers who called me and offered me a figure over the phone, sight unseen offered. The guy who bought it was a Jeeper and his own mechanic - it went to a good home. I still sort-of miss it, while I appreciate the Unlimited on long drives, it's just not as FUN as the SWB Sport.

    P.S. Hi, Paul. We've already had snow a couple of times, along with some really strong winds - wild weather. You probably haven't missed a thing!
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    Anyone got a YJ gas tank? apparantly the "slosh resovior" has detached itself from the inside of my tank and i need a new one. Maybe a different jeep is a better option? :cry:
  • chiefusnchiefusn Member Posts: 20
    what's the story on bicycle vs. honda? You didn't elaborate
    and my curiosity has got the best of me.

    mike mmcs usn ret.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    apparantly the "slosh resovior" has detached itself from the inside of my tank and i need a new one.

    Not quite with you there, but a replacement tank is around $150 (about four times the cost of filling it :( )

    image

    YJ Tank
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    There is a plastic baffle directly below the fuel pump/sending unit that keeps gas from "sloshing" away from the fuel pump when below 1/4 tank and burning out the pump. Thanks for the lead on the replacement, but i need one for a 92, and that pic doesn't look like the same thing. I've looked high and low, but cannot find a replacement. But i spotted a couple on eBay :shades:
  • yjbobyjbob Member Posts: 56
    Harriet,
    Would you please compare the handling of your Honda with that of your jeeps on dry roads and in the snow? I am looking at the new Patriot (to add to my YJ), and I guess it would be closer to a Fit than a Wrangler in terms of handling.
    Bob
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    There we were, driving down I-5 on a dark rainy Friday before Christmas, just going to work at around 5 am. We were minding our own business, traveling at a safe 65 mph in the #2 lane (the lane on the left, the fast lane, is #1), when all of a sudden my husband said that he saw something in the lane. With wet roads, a car passing on the left and a truck on the right, there wasn't anywhere to go except over. The Fit Sport didn't make it over - the bike stuck under the car. We pulled off as fast as we practically could (dodging traffic) - I asked if I would get extra credit for clearing the highway, but they said it didn't count. All I can guess is that the bike fell off of someone's bike carrier, but we didn't see it fall off. Not much you can do in that situation - with the wet roads trying to do an emergency brake or trying to swerve might have been worse than it was.
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    I really like the Fit - it handles well on the road, but no off-roader (18 miles of unexpected more or less graded dirt road is quite bone-jarring - but that's another story). It's quieter than a Wrangler (doesn't take much for that, though), has pretty good pick-up and handles curves nicely. It's a fun little car to drive, with plenty of cargo space. We both find it comfortable (my 6 foot, good sized hubby and I'm 5 foot and small) for longer trips and I LOVE the 36-plus MPG I get on a regular basis. It's not a luxury car, but then neither is a Wrangler. We've put something like 35,000 miles on it since April (don't remember exactly, and come to think of it, I think it was due for an oil change. Since the repairs included an oil pan, does that mean the oil change is on the insurance company? Wonder if they'll reset the maintenance minder?). It makes a nice addition to the Wrangler, and a capable long distance commuter. It was just a bit difficult to get used to sitting so low.
  • arizonajoearizonajoe Member Posts: 123
    Hi all -- I'm trying to get the backstory and analysis of the V6 engine. I've searched this discussion and haven't found the long and detailed discussion that I assume you all have had on the new Wrangler, especially the new engine. You have had this discussion, right?

    I've test-driven the automatic and the stick, and I'm stuck (pun intended). I'm also considering several other SUVs, some being more the crossover variety.

    An argument for the stick -- Passing power. Is the auto going to have trouble building speed?
  • steve09steve09 Member Posts: 2
    Hey im Steve, i just turned 21 years old and im really looking for some help with deciding on a car.

    Actually im trying to decide whether i should buy a Wrangler or not.

    This Wrangler will be my everday commuter along with my offroad vehical. I guess my problem is deciding if jeeps are actually a viable choice given this scenario.

    I have had a jeep before, 91 Jeep Cherrokee and i loved it. The gas milage did hurt but it wasnt TO bad.

    Im really trying to have fun!! Ive been stuck working for the past two years and havent really had time to just, be 21 LOL.

    Im looking to spend about 13,000$ so i cant get a new one. In my price range im seeing anything from 97s up to 2000s.

    So i guess here are my questions.

    First and probably most important.

    Would you recommend me buying a Jeep Wrangler? Considering it will be my everyday commuter, my off road vehical, my car to go out with the ladies etc. etc. =)

    If so, is there a specific model or year i should go after ? Like i said im looking between 97s and 2000s. Do you you think there is a significant increase in the overall vehical from 97 to 2000 ?

    If not do you think i should try and save a little bit of cash and go for the 97 or spend the extra money and go for the 2000 ? (consider this purchase will be a significant buy for me, this has been my "fun savings" for two years)

    I guess thats it. Sorry for the huge essay.

    ANY advice will be of great appriciation!!

    Thanks again for your time.

    Best,
    Steve
  • dizzle65dizzle65 Member Posts: 20
    Anybody know when the bestop hard top for the new '07 JK 2 Door will be available? Price? I can only imagine how superior it will be to that leaking DC "freedom top," which I am thankful for not ordering.

    damien
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Your question would really be best asked in the Jeep Wrangler forum where all the Wrangler enthusiasts hang out. :)
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Your question would really be best asked in ...

    Done. :)

    tidester, host
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Do you you think there is a significant increase in the overall vehical from 97 to 2000?

    Like any first build of a brand new model, the '97s were found to have many things that needed improving upon. It took until the middle of the '98 model year for this to get sorted out, so IMHO look for a '98.5 onward. The most noticeable visual change from the earlier build is the switch to rotary HVAC controls from the previous sliders, but there are a whole host of changes under the skin.

    The biggest problem found on '98.5 to 2000 was exhaust header cracking, but I can't imagine that there's one out there now that hasn't yet been fixed. Changes from year to year are generally invisible from the exterior. The most significant changes to the '00 compared the the '99 was a new header, different make of manual transmission, coil rail instead of plug leads and distributor cap, none of which you would notice from the drivers seat.

    So I'd say '98.5 onward. Generally, get as late a model as possible, but an excellent '99 would be a much better buy than an average '00. I should also add that there are many '97-'98.5s running around quite happily, and if I had to choose between one of those or no Jeep at all, I'd definitely pick one of those!
  • shaggy105shaggy105 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 98...not sure when in 98 but I absolutely love it :D I had the exhaust header crack, but other than that its been great... oh and dont get the 4 cylinder, get the 4.0L
  • tkeith30tkeith30 Member Posts: 2
    Just bought 01 Jeep Wrangler Sport for $11,500 w/53K miles. Was this a good deal? Also, can any one tell me what the standard features are? This one has no console, automatic, sound bar w/Polk Speakers, and aftermarket radio/CD. Also, can anyone suggest best cleaner for soft top and proper way to clean windows? Last, can anyone tell me best way to store windows and top when it is taken off? Thanks. Any advice is appreciated.
  • jeepgreenjeepgreen Member Posts: 5
    I'm really having a tough time figuring out the best way to air up and air down my tires for the trails (32"). I saw the post about the Truck Air, but I've seen mixed reviews of it and most other electrical compressors.
    Has anyone used the PowerTank? It looks like a great product, just a little on the pricey side.
    What do most of you use? Or do you just drive back to the local gas station to air back up?
    Thanks for the help,
    -Brian
  • briolencebriolence Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I own a 2002 Wrangler X. My original tires on it are I believe 215 75 15. I would like to upgrade the tires to possibly 30X9.5X15 or 31X10.5X15. My question is which will work? I am curious if things like the odometer and speedometer will still be accurate. Also, which would be best to stay closest to my current fuel economy.
    Thank you,
  • eastcoastdivereastcoastdiver Member Posts: 14
    the weather has been so mild here in new england i'd been driving around topless a few days here and there. two nights ago i left her out without putting the top back on. it rained. the next morning she started up fine, i just had a wet jeep (and behind). during the day my horn started going continuously until i unplugged it under the hood. when it was time to go home at the end of the workday she started up but the airbag light was now on. this is where it gets interesting... later in the night i had to move the jeep to let my roommate out of the driveway, but the jeep wouldn't start. the interior lights work. the stereo works. the headlights work. the key doesn't turn.

    my service station can sort me out monday morning, but i was wondering if anyone could guide me through a fix if it was a simple one.

    keeping my fingers crossed,
    jackson
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The Truck Air is probably the best value in small 'plug in' type compressors, but it's certainly not the best choice.

    To get a more efficient (i.e. faster) solution, you need to spend more money, period. Possible options are 'On Board Air' which uses an A/C compressor driven by the engine, the same compressor driven by a heavy duty electric motor, the Power Tank (or put together your own CO² system using component parts), a similar system but using a scuba tank and compressed air, and of course there are many h/d electric systems like Viair.

    All the different systems have fairly obvious pros and cons, but it's hard to say one is 'better' than the other, just a question of which pros and cons suit you best.

    Of course the ultimate solution is buy an AMG H1 which comes with it's own CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System), which allows you to inflate and deflate the tires on each axle independently on the fly. It does cost a little more than a Power Tank though! :shades:

    image
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    My question is which will work?

    Either will be fine.

    I am curious if things like the odometer and speedometer will still be accurate.

    No, but it can be corrected by changing the speedo drive gear in the transfer case.

    Also, which would be best to stay closest to my current fuel economy.

    The 30x9.5x15.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    That's a text book example of what happens when the dash, steering wheel and column get wet. Drying out is required obviously, but you may end up having to have the clock spring replaced. The clock spring resides at the top of the column and allows the wheel to remain electrically connected while turning.
  • 2climbbig2climbbig Member Posts: 20
    I was showing some friends where I go wheeling. We where on top of a hill where you can look down on the entire area. I saw and Jeep Cherokee muddying and from my stand point he should not have been out there. Look like dad's daily driver going for a joy ride. Well sure enough they got stuck! A hummer and Mercedes SUV drove past him on a dry parallel trail and never stopped to help. :mad: So... I drove down into the mudpit to pull him out. A 16 year old boy rolls down the window and says... I am from arkansas. Like that is suppose to be an excuse for being an idiot. Got him out but not happy with those to inconsiderate fatherless people in the Hummer and Mercedes... maybe there were afraid of getting stuck. Have pictures... not sure how to post them. I have a 4-door JK
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The easiest way to post pics is to host them on your CarSpace album and either send people there or link to them. There's even a copy/paste linking box there for pasting your photos in here.

    Lots of the mudholes down South have rocky bottoms, so maybe that's his excuse? Not too swift driving through something when you don't know what's underneath you though. Good karma (Jeepma?) for you!
  • 2climbbig2climbbig Member Posts: 20
    ">link title<a href="http://www.carspace.com/2climbbig"
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try the embed image box on the album page where the full size image is - it'll wind up looking like this when you paste it in a post:

    imageSee more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com

    And I take it all back about rocks - nary a one for miles around. :D

    I sort of did that with a '57 Chevy when I was around 17. Except I had muddy water in the floorboards in the backseat. A logging truck came along and jerked the car out after a half hour. :blush:
  • tkeith30tkeith30 Member Posts: 2
    Just bought 01 Jeep Wrangler Sport for $11,500 w/53K miles. Was this a good deal? Also, can any one tell me what the standard features are? This one has no console, automatic,soft top, sound bar w/Polk Speakers, and aftermarket radio/CD. Also, can anyone suggest best cleaner for soft top and proper way to clean windows? Last, can anyone tell me best way to store windows and top when it is taken off? Thanks. Any advice is appreciated.
  • yjbobyjbob Member Posts: 56
    The "new" 3.8L pushrod OHV V-6 is the Chrysler minivan standard motor, and has seen a lot of service in that application. I put 130,000 miles on a '95 van and I have 40,000 on my current van - no major problems. Since this motor has only been mounted transversely in front wheel drive vehicles, the fan is driven by an electric motor, not belt-driven. Under he hood, I have seen that the V-6 fits nicely in the Wrangler, with pretty good access to many maintenance items.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Prices vary throughout the country, so it's hard to say. However, you'd better just take it for granted that the answer is 'yes', as anything else is going to make you unhappy. ;)

    As far as I remember you should have a console in a Sport, but I can't recall which were standard features and which were options. You can probably pick up a brochure for your model year on eBay.

    You can buy a cover to protect the top when it's folded, and there are various bags, rolls, and cases to hold the windows. You can also put the windows between soft towels and either lay them flat or roll them up.
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    I have kind of a strange philosophy when it comes to prices of vehicles. I once owned a Toyota Tacoma that I absolutely hated. I bought it new for several hundred over invoice, so got a reasonably good deal but I couldn't wait to get rid of it (took 4 very long years before I could afford to dump it). As far as I was concerned, it wasn't worth the "good deal" - it wasn't worth 2 cents to me.

    On the other hand, I bought a '98 Wrangler (early version) for $500 over dealers invoice. Even though I had guessed that it was an unwind, the dealership didn't actually admit it until we had already struck a deal. Since the vehicle had over 700 miles on it, it was legally a used car, so I got a lousy deal on it. But I loved that Jeep - it was worth every penny I paid for it and then some to me. I sadly sold it this summer (didn't need two Wranglers and we had bought a Fit to deal with the high price of gas). That vehicle was definitely worth the money I paid for it, no matter whether the "deal" was good or not.
  • 99tj99tj Member Posts: 187
    you outta be able to find a used console out there on ebay or a salvage yard. I did a quick search for "jeep console" on EBAY and came up with many returns...factory and aftermarket.

    -Dan
  • eastcoastdivereastcoastdiver Member Posts: 14
    Thanks mac. I brought it to the dealer, they said the problem could be caused by a number of things, rent a car from us it'll be a few days. I said a friend had the same problem and it just needed a new clock spring, and to start there first. My jeep was ready in 2 hours. $0 b/c still under warranty. Thanks again mac. :)
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    As for console, if there is no center console, fork over the ponies for a Tuffy security console. It replaces the stock one completely, so if you don't have one, installation is a LOT easier ;).

    You can securely store things in it and it looks good too!

    Best soft top cleaner would be something formulated for that kind of stuff. I use some simple green with water, scrub with a soft brush. Rinse, repeat. Then I use 303 Protectant to keep the UV from messing it up.

    For the windows, a CLEAN SOFT rag with SOAP and WATER. Do NOT use ammonia based cleaners.

    For the windows, I usually keep them in back and roll them up. My roll has soft cloth between the layers. When I have my top OFF and am running the safari top, I have a storage bag I keep all that in.

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Keep in mind, those GC's are very capable offroad, but a number of factors can affect it.

    1. Driver skill. Looking at their expressions, I suspect they thought they knew what they were doing, but were in a bit over their heads.
    2. Tires. No stock tire for the Grand Cherokee is gonna work in mud like that. Boggers or Mud Terrains are required.

    That you stopped and helped is admirable. That the others didn't is deplorable. Realize that there are new folks to wheeling and not everybody knew it all when starting, especially those who are just wanting to see how much their Jeeps can take! ;)

    -Paul
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles