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Poison Spyder make two more great options that are worth your time to check out. For protection to your existing cover, they make the Rock Ring (about $100). If you're looking for a complete replacement cover, for a few dollars more, they make the bigger, beefier Bombshell (about $140).
I went with the Bombshell. The install was easy and the Bombshell has been just that so far.
Maximum tire size in relation to breakage has more to do with your right foot than anything else. Axles usually break when a rapidly spinning and bouncing wheel suddenly gets traction. Some people happily run 37's with the D44, while others regularly break things with 33's. I would say your tire choices are going to be more restricted by any decision on a lift, rather than by axle type.
Finally, warranties have more to do with marketing than anything else at the moment. The powertrain warranty used to be 7/70, but as a manufacturer why incur that extra expenditure if you can sell every vehicle you produce. You can always buy an aftermarket warranty if you feel insecure. Otherwise, invest the same amount of money in a maintenance fund.
As Tom mentioned, driver habit is a BIG deciding factor. If you are seriously into the skinny pedal while on obstacles, 33's may be your effective max size, while somebody who is lighter on the pedal may get away with 37's or even 39's (if properly geared).
I have 33's on my D35, but it has upgraded shafts too.
-Paul
The auto works well offroad and saves you from having to use a third foot that a manual sometime requires. The only downside offroad is a reduction in compression braking when going downhill.
On road, the differences are the same as for any vehicle. The gas mileage will be a little worse, as will acceleration.
Neither is better or worse than the other, just different.
If you find yourself rereading old posts, please use the Mark As Read button to get caught up. Thanks!
On the trail, I am suprisingly to find out with 1st gear and low range, it gives me more than enough power to climb or to move at crawl speed on rough terrian with complete control and no stalling. This is exactly what I want. With manual, you would probably need the help from a hand throtle to achieve the similar level of control. By then again, individual preference is still the main dermining factor.
So.....help.....I am now riding around on near-bald tires and slip n' slide in the WalMart parking lot has lost it's thrill.
Diego
...life is good :P
If you don't need full articulation of your suspension, i.e. you're going to drive highway only, then you can go to 33x12.5. However, if you want to continue offroading then 31x10.5s or possibly 32x11.5s will be most useful to you without a lift. The 32x11.5s are better suited to your rim width but you will get some fender rubbing on full flex. The 31x10.5s will be a little stretched on your 10" rims but their overall diameter will give better body clearance. Rubbing at full lock shouldn't be a problem as you seem to have decreased backspacing. Unless you do a lot of heavy mudding you'll be pleased with the BFG AT KOs.
thanks again!
Diego
...beepbeep/wave
Hmmm.....didn't I just answer that very question for you in the post immediately prior to yours?
If you like driving rutted trails at speed then seriously consider the OME suspension lift. Those are the conditions it was originally designed for.
as for trails...yes, i like to toss it around at speed. Safely, but always at max speed down those semi-smooth dirt roads. I would have an off road subaru impreza WRX if i could....heehee
thanks for your help again
We're back to using the Unlimited as our daily driver ('04, 85,000 miles) - we found out the hard way that bicycles on freeways don't do nice things to low clearance vehicles. At least we don't have to worry about the roads - we've had snow several times all ready. The only adjustment has been to our budget - going from 36+ average mpg with the Fit to the 17+ (if its not windy) with the Unlimited is hard to take (sigh).
I am glad to see you back!
tidester, host
-Paul
P.S. Hi, Paul. We've already had snow a couple of times, along with some really strong winds - wild weather. You probably haven't missed a thing!
and my curiosity has got the best of me.
mike mmcs usn ret.
Not quite with you there, but a replacement tank is around $150 (about four times the cost of filling it )
YJ Tank
Would you please compare the handling of your Honda with that of your jeeps on dry roads and in the snow? I am looking at the new Patriot (to add to my YJ), and I guess it would be closer to a Fit than a Wrangler in terms of handling.
Bob
I've test-driven the automatic and the stick, and I'm stuck (pun intended). I'm also considering several other SUVs, some being more the crossover variety.
An argument for the stick -- Passing power. Is the auto going to have trouble building speed?
Actually im trying to decide whether i should buy a Wrangler or not.
This Wrangler will be my everday commuter along with my offroad vehical. I guess my problem is deciding if jeeps are actually a viable choice given this scenario.
I have had a jeep before, 91 Jeep Cherrokee and i loved it. The gas milage did hurt but it wasnt TO bad.
Im really trying to have fun!! Ive been stuck working for the past two years and havent really had time to just, be 21 LOL.
Im looking to spend about 13,000$ so i cant get a new one. In my price range im seeing anything from 97s up to 2000s.
So i guess here are my questions.
First and probably most important.
Would you recommend me buying a Jeep Wrangler? Considering it will be my everyday commuter, my off road vehical, my car to go out with the ladies etc. etc.
If so, is there a specific model or year i should go after ? Like i said im looking between 97s and 2000s. Do you you think there is a significant increase in the overall vehical from 97 to 2000 ?
If not do you think i should try and save a little bit of cash and go for the 97 or spend the extra money and go for the 2000 ? (consider this purchase will be a significant buy for me, this has been my "fun savings" for two years)
I guess thats it. Sorry for the huge essay.
ANY advice will be of great appriciation!!
Thanks again for your time.
Best,
Steve
damien
Done.
tidester, host
Like any first build of a brand new model, the '97s were found to have many things that needed improving upon. It took until the middle of the '98 model year for this to get sorted out, so IMHO look for a '98.5 onward. The most noticeable visual change from the earlier build is the switch to rotary HVAC controls from the previous sliders, but there are a whole host of changes under the skin.
The biggest problem found on '98.5 to 2000 was exhaust header cracking, but I can't imagine that there's one out there now that hasn't yet been fixed. Changes from year to year are generally invisible from the exterior. The most significant changes to the '00 compared the the '99 was a new header, different make of manual transmission, coil rail instead of plug leads and distributor cap, none of which you would notice from the drivers seat.
So I'd say '98.5 onward. Generally, get as late a model as possible, but an excellent '99 would be a much better buy than an average '00. I should also add that there are many '97-'98.5s running around quite happily, and if I had to choose between one of those or no Jeep at all, I'd definitely pick one of those!
Has anyone used the PowerTank? It looks like a great product, just a little on the pricey side.
What do most of you use? Or do you just drive back to the local gas station to air back up?
Thanks for the help,
-Brian
I own a 2002 Wrangler X. My original tires on it are I believe 215 75 15. I would like to upgrade the tires to possibly 30X9.5X15 or 31X10.5X15. My question is which will work? I am curious if things like the odometer and speedometer will still be accurate. Also, which would be best to stay closest to my current fuel economy.
Thank you,
my service station can sort me out monday morning, but i was wondering if anyone could guide me through a fix if it was a simple one.
keeping my fingers crossed,
jackson
To get a more efficient (i.e. faster) solution, you need to spend more money, period. Possible options are 'On Board Air' which uses an A/C compressor driven by the engine, the same compressor driven by a heavy duty electric motor, the Power Tank (or put together your own CO² system using component parts), a similar system but using a scuba tank and compressed air, and of course there are many h/d electric systems like Viair.
All the different systems have fairly obvious pros and cons, but it's hard to say one is 'better' than the other, just a question of which pros and cons suit you best.
Of course the ultimate solution is buy an AMG H1 which comes with it's own CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System), which allows you to inflate and deflate the tires on each axle independently on the fly. It does cost a little more than a Power Tank though! :shades:
Either will be fine.
I am curious if things like the odometer and speedometer will still be accurate.
No, but it can be corrected by changing the speedo drive gear in the transfer case.
Also, which would be best to stay closest to my current fuel economy.
The 30x9.5x15.
Lots of the mudholes down South have rocky bottoms, so maybe that's his excuse? Not too swift driving through something when you don't know what's underneath you though. Good karma (Jeepma?) for you!
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And I take it all back about rocks - nary a one for miles around.
I sort of did that with a '57 Chevy when I was around 17. Except I had muddy water in the floorboards in the backseat. A logging truck came along and jerked the car out after a half hour.
As far as I remember you should have a console in a Sport, but I can't recall which were standard features and which were options. You can probably pick up a brochure for your model year on eBay.
You can buy a cover to protect the top when it's folded, and there are various bags, rolls, and cases to hold the windows. You can also put the windows between soft towels and either lay them flat or roll them up.
On the other hand, I bought a '98 Wrangler (early version) for $500 over dealers invoice. Even though I had guessed that it was an unwind, the dealership didn't actually admit it until we had already struck a deal. Since the vehicle had over 700 miles on it, it was legally a used car, so I got a lousy deal on it. But I loved that Jeep - it was worth every penny I paid for it and then some to me. I sadly sold it this summer (didn't need two Wranglers and we had bought a Fit to deal with the high price of gas). That vehicle was definitely worth the money I paid for it, no matter whether the "deal" was good or not.
-Dan
You can securely store things in it and it looks good too!
Best soft top cleaner would be something formulated for that kind of stuff. I use some simple green with water, scrub with a soft brush. Rinse, repeat. Then I use 303 Protectant to keep the UV from messing it up.
For the windows, a CLEAN SOFT rag with SOAP and WATER. Do NOT use ammonia based cleaners.
For the windows, I usually keep them in back and roll them up. My roll has soft cloth between the layers. When I have my top OFF and am running the safari top, I have a storage bag I keep all that in.
-Paul
1. Driver skill. Looking at their expressions, I suspect they thought they knew what they were doing, but were in a bit over their heads.
2. Tires. No stock tire for the Grand Cherokee is gonna work in mud like that. Boggers or Mud Terrains are required.
That you stopped and helped is admirable. That the others didn't is deplorable. Realize that there are new folks to wheeling and not everybody knew it all when starting, especially those who are just wanting to see how much their Jeeps can take!
-Paul