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Comments
1. CO2 tank.
Pro's:
Easily transportable and can be used for other vehicles.
Properly equipped with adjustable regulator, can be used to run air tools.
Can be cheaper to build
Con's:
Have to refill
Limited amount of CO2 to use
Needs storage space to carry
2. On board compressor - this would be like using an old AC compressor, like a York 210 compressor to inflate tires and such.
Pros:
Very efficient and fast
Doesn't require additional storage, unless you use a tank to store air ready for use instead of directly from the compressor
Unlimited air supply
Cons:
Can be very costly for proper installation
More possibilities for leaks in system
Requires more labor/effort to setup
Requires (usually) modification to engine air box setup
I went with CO2 as I don't wheel often enough to justify a full OBA setup. Nor do I run air tools. I got my setup built (did it myself) for:
$75.00 for a 10 LB CO2 tank (NEW)
$45.00 for a 150 psi fixed regulator (NEW)
$10.00 for a 25' coil hose and air chuck
Compared to over $200-$300 for a 'name brand' CO2 setup, I like my setup.
So for about $130, I have a good working setup. I have a friend who is going to make me a storage rack that will mount up to my Jeeperman bumper and sit outside the Jeep.
-Paul
-Paul
Terry
Ever try a portable electric like the ARB or the ViAir?
Thanks for the info.
I'll let erickpl give more specifics on his system, but I'm not aware of any practical setup that stores gaseous rather liquid CO².
A 10# tank holds 640 gallons of 'air' or CO2. I can fill up my 33x12.5x15 tires from 10 to 35 PSI (just above my street pressure) in just over a minute per tire. I usually only air down to about 16 psi or so, so the times will be shorter.
I can get roughly 4 wheeling trips in before having to refill the tank (about 15 fillups when going from 10 to 35), but since I go from 16 to 33, I should be able to get 16 fills with no problem.
I have an ARB compressor to run my locker in back, but the volume is so minimal it takes about 20 minutes to fill a tire, and THAT is way longer than the recommended non-stop run time for that compressor.
While I wanted a York compressor, I did not want to have to relocate my air box or go with a cold air intake, esp for an offroad vehicle. Also, I didn't want to give up A/C or have to deal with all the hoses/wiring/gauges/etc that a hard-wired setup would entail. The portable CO2 lets me use it for other purposes, including filling sports equipment, air mattresses, etc...
It is all personal preference, but to ME, the cost vs frequency and the labor involved to set up pushed me to the CO2 tank.
If you offroad a LOT and/or have air-powered tools, then a York or Viair setup may be the best choice for you. For me, as cool as it is, it just wasn't.
-Paul
Not too many from what I see around here. It's even more important if a lift is used to level the vehicle from a previous 'nose down' attitude.
In Europe, where they take blinding an oncoming driver a little more seriously than we seem to here, Wranglers are equipped with an electrically operated headlight levelling system, so that if you're carrying a load (rear seat passengers, trailer etc.) the driver can correct the headlight adjustment with a four position switch.
I adjusted my lights:
- after installing the IPF lighting
- after doing my OME lift
- after doing my BL (had to remove the lights anyway for that to make it easier)
I have NOT done it since installing the .75" spacers and that may explain why I get flashed to turn off the brights occasionally.
I have a list of things to do to Kermit. Time to add one more.
-Paul
I've contacted the dealer - I'd have to buy a whole setup. Uh, no. Does anybody have a broken foglamp that they'd otherwise be pitching or have some sources I could try?
-Paul
I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler X model. It has been a GREAT vehicle for both travel and daily driving, but it needs some "beefyness" if you get what I mean. Its still completely factory, which I believe is understandable because I've only had the Jeep since last May.
I want to get a 4" Series II Rough Country lift. My first question is if I can get away with keeping my stock wheels and putting 33" x 10.5" tires? I know they will fit and everything, but since they are not very wide, I was wondering if I could get some advice on whether they are safe or not (roll over risk...etc.).
Ok, second question, I will not be offroading anytime soon because of how new my car is. I want to put some age on my vehicle before I run it through the woods. So in other words I will be a "poser" for a lil while. Does this mean I will need to get a replacement stablizer, slip yoke eliminator, and the CV custom driveshaft? Or since I will be staying onroad will I be alright without? I've also heard a lot about regearing. What is the benefits of that other than power, and if I don't regear will that hurt my vehicle?
Any help will be very much appreciated! The site for the lift and those other parts are here link title
With regard to s/stabilizers, SYEs, and custom driveshafts, the situation is reversed. A lack of the above will be most noticable on-road, in terms of serious vibration. Off-road, if you keep the speed down, you won't notice the lack of them at all, (though you may need to put a spacer on the rear end of the rear prop shaft).
Not re-gearing might negatively affect fuel consumption and acceleration, but it won't damage your vehicle.
1. 33x10.5's should fit on stock wheels. I have 33x12.5's on my Canyons which are 8" wide.
2. Your rollover risk will go up a bit since you are raising your COG. But if you drive prudently, the increased risk will be minimal.
3. I've heard VERY mixed results about the Rough Country lifts. You may want to consider Rubicon Express or OME as better options.
4. With a 4" lift, you will likely need either a transfer case drop (usually comes with lift kits) or do the SYE. The drop is a cheaper solution since you don't need the SYE, new rear driveshaft and adjustable control arms in back.
5. Replacement stabilizers will be unnecessary if you balance and align tires properly after lift. They tend to MASK issues instead of prevent them.
6. Going from stock to 33's, you will see a performance hit and a noticeable change in what your speedo reads vs true speed. Regearing is the best way to regain stock 'power' to the now-oversized tires. A new speedo gear would probably be good too (fairly cheap from the dealer) and is based on your new differential gear settings and tire size. It won't hurt anything other than your pocketbook for more gas if you don't regear.
-Paul
Me too, but I thought I'd let someone else express it first!
Apparently the name (Rough Country) is an accurate descriptor of the product's performance. (What's the correct term for that?)
-Paul
Thanks
Price independent:
1. OME
2. RE
3. Rusty's
Price dependent:
1. Rusty's
2. RE
3. OME
Hope that helps.
-Paul
I'm not sure how they'd be different, except maybe with different springs/spring rate. Shouldn't be too much different though.
-Paul
Alternatively, your local dealer should be able to print it out given the VIN.
However, as there's no guarantee that a fifteen year old Jeep will still have the same equipment it originally came with, a check of the axle itself might be best.
If the information tag is no longer attached to one of the diff cover bolts you will need to get physical with it. Just count how many revolutions a wheel needs to turn to complete one revolution of the propshaft. Make a chalk mark on the propshaft where you can see it from the side, and a chalk mark on a tire at the 12 o'clock position. Carefully roll the Jeep forward while keeping note of the marks. Easy!
1. OME
2. RE
3. Rusty's
Price dependent:
1. Rusty's
2. RE
3. OME
That would be my order of priority as well.
I'm pretty sure it is both ranges. Do you know offhand how much that actuator is to replace? and how difficult? or do you think that investing in one of those 4x4 posi-locks is a better investment?
The Posi-Lock is a popular mechanically operated alternative. Appears well made, gives a positive engagment, but has the disadvantage of being rather pricy ($200+).
A second alternative that may bear investigation is to DIY for around $20. See what you think.
Martin, I think you got this backward. Don't you count how many revolutions of the prop shaft to make one revolution of the wheel?
Terry
TJ lift kit prices usually consist of (for a good one less than 4"):
1. Longer Springs
2. Longer shocks (still think OME is one of the best)
3. Bump stop extensions
4. Adj track bars or track bar relocation brackets
Those are the MAJOR components. Higher end kits (like a $1,600 RE kit, would include adjustable control arms as well.
DPG offroad sells several levels of OME kit (they are who I bought through) depending on your budget. Dirk knows OME VERY well and can help with making a selection.
If you have a JK, I honestly don't know what is out there and was relaying what I knew about TJ's. Not sure if TJ shocks will work on a JK. Only limitations would be flex and how the shocks attach at each ends (bar pins or what).
Honestly, I'd wait a bit to see more JK lift kits come out for it. When you only have 1 or 2, they pretty much dictate the pricing. As more come out, you should see prices become competitive again.
-Paul
(I think my fingers were trying to make my brain look bad.)
It is just the size of the hole for the wheel to fit that matters.
With a 15" wheel, you'll have more sidewall than you would with a 16" wheel.
Performance wise, when you're talkin about a 35" tire, performance will be about the same. The issue is more with the width of the tire vs width of the wheel. I have an 8" wheel but running 12.5" wide tires and have had no problem airing down to about 14 psi for the trails. Never popped a bead.
-Paul
I understand that a 35" is the same regardless of the wheel size. I was trying to understand if there is any performance difference with a larger wheel size given the same tire size... And you answered that question.
Just from my engineering back ground, it would seem that the more flex you have in the side walls, the larger your tire contact when crawling. Just food for thought
Terry
PS - I had to type this one twice. It may still have errors.
T.
That's correct, though the difference between a 15" and 16" rim is negligable in its effect. Think of the difference between a 15" and 22" rim with a 35" tire and the picture becomes clearer.
Just wanted to make sure we are on the same page... the 22" wheel would be a poor performer as the side walls have less flex.
A more flexible sidewall doesn't make the tread any wider, but it can help it to wrap around a rock or stump for added traction.
You could either use a vacuum gauge like this one:
Available HERE or at most auto stores for about $10.
Alternatively, you could remove the actuator housing (it's only held on by four bolts), then while the engine is running have a friend operate the t/c lever as you look at the actuator fork to see if it's moving correctly.
Great footage.
Most of you probably don't know the story of my jeep. I got the '92 YJ in Septmeber of 05. A friend of my dad's was selling it because he was getting a new car. The guy only wanted $1000 for it. After my mechanic's inspection, he said that the frame was gone almost beyond repair. The back by the shackles were rusted out along with the section by the steering box. He also went down a list of everything else that it would need, and we figured I'd have $2500-$3000 into it when all was said and done. So, after talking him down to $800, and deciding that my other vehicle to be my first car (1976 AMC Pacer X) would wait and the Jeep would come home because I always wanted one, but the Pacer just kinda grew on me. 16 months later, i have a replacement frame and other things are going wrong left and right. But i put faith in the thought that i will be replacing all the wrong and will know what was done to the jeep instead of buying one for more money that could have the same problems. Plus, i figured that the American Racing rims and the Michelin tires on it were worth almost the purchase price.
How can I even out my lift so that both front and rear are each around 4" or so? Coil spacer in the front? 3" springs?
What happens when you go from a 2.5" spring to a 3" or 4" spring? Would I have to have an adjustable trackbar to make it work?
Lots of questions...but thanks for any help or info.