Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Mazda Protege5
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-ymvDyBpHvBm/ProdView.asp?a=1- &s=0&cc=01&g=300&id=detailed_info&i=023BPV660
Blaupunkt isn't necessarily my favorite brand, but it seems to match all of my criteria. I'll keep looking.
Too early to say if the long term consequences of such heavy miles impact the performance of the p5. While the Protege model as a whole does well over time, you still need to look at the options and condition of the car versus the accords you mention.
Just an idea, but with 0% financing and the rebates on the p5, can you swing a deal on one with no major option packages? Here in Chicago, we're seeing well optioned p5s going for $13,000 at Wilkins and others. Dealers should start negotiating a bit more on p5s with the 'new' Mazda3 and Mazda6 hatch coming out soon.
95k is a ton of miles for this new a car... Is the accord 4 or 6 cyl? Are the options comparable?
Tough to really help on this without knowing more about the cars.
Good luck,
Tetonman
.
3. Human hearing is not linear. It takes 10X the power output you started with to create the perception of twice the loudness. (So much for small power increases causing the dramatic results often attributed to them.)
.
4. Higher sensitivity speakers will increase loudness because they're more efficient at converting electrical energy into sound. The higher the SPL rating, the better.
.
5. One of the biggest reasons for so-so sound reproduction in vehicles is poor speaker baffling.
.
6. The above information is deliberately simplified, but adequate for casual discussion.
my situation is that i feel stuck and cant decide on wether to spend $5k on a car, and be comfortable with not having to get a loan, or $10-12k on a car, and definitely get the p5, but with payemnt for 36 months or more
i havent looked into the 0% finance, but i doubt i could afford a new car or even qualify for the 0%
the comparison was theoretical, i only used an accord as an examlpe because i know i can get one with 100k miles and it still be reliable...can i do the same with a p5?
i was under the impression that highway miles were alot easier on a car, and the fact that it is not even 2 years old...but i guess you are saying that if im gonna spend that kind of money, why not look into a low option, but low mileage p5 or even a 03' p5
does the p5 use the same engine as the sedan protege?
do you think the p5 will hold its value better than the sedan?
thanks for the input
screeli
.
My comments were intended to provide food for thought concerning balanced frequency response and low distortion and not to put any kind of a damper on anything.
.
For instance, I like jazz and know what brushed cymbals and a plucked bass sound like. It takes a good system to keep the bass from having a "one note" quality, the highs from sounding like breaking glass, and the squeek of a performer's fingers on guitar strings from sounding like somebody playing with a balloon. With some other types of music, well....
.
The important thing is that the sound pleases your ears.
1. I have a wiring diagram for the Miata stereo. The folks at Mazda assure me that the Protege5 is wired the same way, just with 2 extra speakers. It shows no crossover. That doesn't mean there isn't one, but it does not show up on the diagram. I have posted it on the web. The diagram apparently is not copyrighted as far as I can tell. If Mazda wants me to remove it, please let me know. Here is the link:
http://homepage.mac.com/tboggs/.cv/tboggs/Public/Miata%20Stereo.j- pg-link.jpg
2. You didn't seem to have a 2. ;-)
3. I agree. Most of the performance improvements come from better speakers. Although reducing THD in the Head Unit can make a system more tolerable at higher volumes. The main reason I am considering aftermarket Head Units is better Sound Quality and added features like MP3 playback and/or auxiliary inputs.
I've driven Mazda proteges since 1991 and found them to be very reliable through 150,000 miles if you follow the maintenance schedule.
If, and its a big if... you know that the seller has changed the oil at the 3-5,000 mile points consistently and performed additional maintenance and NOT just driven the heck out of the car, then the P5 sounds like a good deal.
I would go for a newer car with higher miles if maintained than an older car with same miles if maintained only because the newer car has gone through less winters. (That's important up here in Chicago area.) BUT, I would have a good mechanic look at the brakes (front and back), inspect the wearable parts of the engine and transmission, and then I would take the car out and push it on the highway to see if it's acceleration is up to your impressions. I would then drive a brand new one and see how the used compares under similar driving conditions.
Good luck.
Tetonman
1. How difficult is it to remove and replace the door panels to get to the speakers?
2. Have you experienced more squeeks and rattles from the doors after removing/replacing the panels?
3. If I do this, should I get some extra doorclips in advance to replace any that might break?
I'd like to upgrade the speakers, but not if doing so it likely to increase the number of rattles.
Thanks!
2 months ago I purchased a Demo 2003 Protege5 (with 5,000 miles on it)from Brown's Alexandria Mazda (www.brownsmazda.com)(703-660-8400). When I first got the car I noticed that the brake pedal would vibrate when pressed. Thinking that the car is equipped with "anti-lock" braking I figured that this was normal. But the vibrations got worse; to the point that I took the car to the dealer to have it checked. PLUS I found out that my car does not have ABS. The Service rep at Brown's Mazda told me that the front rotors were warped and they will be replaced. The following day when I went to pickup my car, I noticed that the rotors were the original rotors and that they had been milled down (turned). I know that rotors can only be turned once in their lifetime, which means that in 40,000 miles or so, when the car needs brake work I WILL HAVE TO PAY FOR NEW ROTORS. I told the dealership's service rep that this was unacceptable and they refered me to Mazda (800-222-5500). I called Mazda and filed a complaint (Report # 886094) and they told me that the final decision would be up to the district manager of my area. Later I received a call from the dealership telling me that the decision was made to NOT REPLACE MY ROTORS!
My wife and I own 3 Mazdas (2 Proteges and 1 miata) but based on this experience with Mazda and the dealership, I don't think I will ever buy a Mazda again (atleast not from Brown's Mazda or any other dealership in this 'DISTRICT')
The rears are more difficult. I will also post some instructions for them.
1. Remove the window garnish (this is the little triangle at the front of the window/door margin.) It just pulls off, no tools should be necessary, but if you find it difficult, you can use a flat head screwdriver with electrical tape wrapped around the tip. Later models have Tweeters in this position and it is easier to get a firm grip on it.
2. Remove the screws visible in the door handle.
3. The door handle is actually 2 separate pieces. Looks closely and you will see the that the inner part is hard plastic. This does not come off. Remove the soft plastic outer portion by separating it from the rest of the handle. It should slide towards the front of the vehicle. Then disengage the tab in the rear portion of the handle.
4. Remove screws inside the door handle you just disassembled.
5. Remove screw visible in door opener. The pull on the door opener. It should come out and hang loose.
6. Use a flat head screwdriver to open the plastic trim piece on screw positioned at upper forward vicinity of door trim, and then remove the screw.
7. Remove fastener at upper rear of door. Do this by pulling out the center portion of the fastener, and then pull out the whole fastener.
8. Pull on trim at lower front corner to disengage the friction fittings. I find that quick semi-hard pulls accomplish this best and generally prevents damage to the fittings. Do this along the edge of the trim until all 6 fittings have come loose.
9. Pull the door trim upward until the top of the trim disengages from the door. Be careful not to pull the trim away from the door! There are still wire harnesses attached. Then push door opener through the its opening in the trim.
10. Unplug the wire harnesses for the power windows and the door locks (driver side only). Generally this requires pushing on a clip in the harness and gently rocking the harness back and forth until it comes out.
11. Now you can pull the trim away from the door. Reinstall in reverse order.
Tips:
1. Look at door after trim removal to see if any friction fittings were left behind. If so, these can be pried loose with the ever popular flat head screwdriver (wrapped with electrical tape) and reinstalled in the trim.
2. Check to see if door lock came out of its track when you removed the trim. If so, then put it back before reinstalling the trim.
3. Be sure to reuse the black plastic ring trim around the OEM speakers when installing the new ones. It should come off with without trouble using a flat head screwdriver. You can add some rubber cement to make sure it sticks well to the new speaker. This protects the speaker from moisture in the door. You can see some pictures of what I am referring to here:
http://homepage.mac.com/tboggs/PhotoAlbum1.html
I don't think I had to modify the watershield on the Mazda speakers, but I could be wrong. These are pictures from my 2001 ES, so your speakers will not look like this.
4. Pull on door opener to get it back in the trim.
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
2. Remove screw in visible in door handles.
3. Use a tape wrapped flat head screwdriver to disengage the clip inside the front portion of the door handle. This is the part that really gave me problems. My 2003 door handle had a slot in the bottom to insert the screwdriver. The problem was, my clip was installed differently than the service manual described. What I ended up doing was inserting the screwdriver through the top of the handle opposite the slot on the bottom. With this method, I was able to disengage the clip. Once the clip has been disengaged, then the outer portion of the handle should slide forward, and then disengage the tab on the rear portion of the handle. My advice is to have a lot of patience. Hopefully yours will be easier than mine to remove.
4. Remove screws inside the door handle you just disassembled.
5. Remove screw visible in door opener. The pull on the door opener. It should come out and hang loose.
6. Remove fasteners at upper front and rear of door. Do this by pulling out the center portion of the fastener, and then pull out the whole fastener.
7. Pull on trim at lower front corner to disengage the friction fittings. I find that quick semi-hard pulls accomplish this best and generally prevents damage to the fittings. Do this along the edge of the trim until all 5 fittings have come loose.
8. Pull the door trim upward until the top of the trim disengages from the door. Be careful not to pull the trim away from the door! There is still a wire harness attached. Then push door opener through the its opening in the trim.
9. Unplug the wire harness for the power windows. Generally this requires pushing on a clip in the harness and gently rocking the harness back and forth until it comes out.
10. Now you can pull the trim away from the door. Reinstall in reverse order.
Tips:
1. Look at door after trim removal to see if any friction fittings were left behind. If so, these can be pried loose with the ever popular flat head screwdriver (wrapped with electrical tape) and reinstalled in the trim.
2. Check to see if door lock came out of its track when you removed the trim. If so, then put it back before reinstalling the trim.
3. Pull on door opener to get it back in the trim.
4. I could not find a way to reuse the watershield when I installed my new speakers, so I got some baffles to protect them from water.
5. The speaker adapter bracket I got from Crutchfield was a bit of a pain. Their directions did not work for me. I had to screw the adapter bracket to the door loosely, then position the speedclips on it. Then I screwed on the speaker to the speedclips loosely. Once I had done that, I screwed the adapter bracket the rest of the way on. Finally, I finished screwing the speaker to the bracket speedclips a little at a time while alternating screws. It was a very tight fit.
Ride is definitely smoother with the taller sidewall. I no longer feel every single little crack in the road. That is certainly a good thing. Just riding I79 through Butler County will drive you nuts with all the bumps and grooves.
Handling is no longer like I'm on rails. It's still good, but considering the Dunlops were getting to be racing slicks, there is no way I would expect full tread tires to match them for all out performance. I haven't really pushed them yet, but I'm sure I'll be more than happy when I do.
Although not a great deal bigger, the tires seem to look big on the wheel. At first it kind of bothered me. It just looked out of place. But I've already grown used to it, and think they look just fine.
So far I'm happy.
Brakes fall under the following headings in my warranty manual:
Adjustments:
Minor repairs not usually associated with replacement of parts. Covered for 12 months or 12,000 miles.
What is not covered: Maintenance is at Owner's Expense
Maintenance services such at worn brake linings, etc.
Perhaps they warrant their rotors further, but it is not implicit in the manual. I personally would not expect my dealer to turn my rotors for free at 17,500 unless it happened right after a wheel rotation or something similar where they might have over torqued the lug nuts and caused the warping.
He felt them pulsing during the clutch chatter test drive and asked if I wanted that fixed. I told him I wasn't ready to pay for it and he told me I wouldn't have to.
I don't really remember how he stated it, but he said rotors were indeed covered.
Bruno
The way I figure it, even if we figure in the cost of the alarm ($176), how the heck is there such a $1,100+ price difference between 2 cars and also doesn't everyone's Pro5 2003 come with a subwoofer?
loolala "Mazda Protege Owners: What did you pay?" Jun 23, 2003 3:41am!make=Mazda&model=Protege5&ed_makeindex=.ef11a96
We live near Oakland, CA, and they have tons of P5 in stock. We went on a Sunday afternoon and didn't see too many people shopping for cars. Anyway, we pay $16,500 out the door with better equiped car than the two you found! Hope this helps and good luck!
Bruno
There may be other brands that work just as well... that others here can recommend. In addition to the feedback here, you may also want to see what they have to say in our
Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair discussion. Good luck. ;-)
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
So for those who don't like the look of the Mazda3, you better get your P5 now.
grab your deals now!!!1!
I'm skeptical of these products as I've tried Mother's Scratch Remover and others like it and have had no luck with them. All they seem to do is attract dust as the spots on my car where I've applied the product seem to collect more dust than other areas.
To golfboy - You're welcome. Here's an informative article from Edmunds about waxing/polishing from Edmunds that you may find interesting. Also, at the bottom of that page, look for a direct link to the Meguiar's website. You can send them an email to find out about the wax cleaner... and availability of the Swirl Remover in Canada.
Good luck, and please keep us posted on your Protege5 experience.
Revka
I just checked the NHTSA crash test site and the protege sedan got 5 stars for the driver and a 4 for the passenger. The 6 and trix have 5 stars for both. I wonder what kind of car gets a 1 meaning better than average.
Any owners finding that their insurance costs with the P5 are a little high? I was talking to USAA.
Bruno
I wouldn't drive it to hard either at first. Let it thoroughly warm up before you start to have too much fun.
Rich
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards