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Mazda Protege5

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Comments

  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    I'm Eric... and it's not just Mazda dealerships that I've had bad experiences at... I'd include Subaru and Nissan too. Warranty and non-warranty work.

    Look, I've had bad experiences at independents too. There are good techs and service advisors at dealerships, and bad too. Unfortunately, most of my experiences at dealerships have been frustrating. I'm pretty knowledgeable about cars. I don't pretend to be a mechanic, but I am pretty good about maintaining them. Look, I know what needs doing and I get ticked when the service folks push unnessary items. I've also had problems getting things fixed right at the dealer... simple stuff. Now, I've had independents do the same thing... push unnessary service and screw up. The key is finding someone you trust.

    If you have a good dealer you trust... GREAT. If you have a good independent you trust... GREAT too. I think the reality though... You're going to find more independents who charge a reasonable price, don't push unnessary service and don't screw up. My advise, ask around with friends who have the same make car. Maybe there is a good dealer, or maybe the best choice is an independent.
  • SporinSporin Member Posts: 1,066
    FYI, the Mazda dealer in Concord, NH (the closest to me) REFUSED to do cover the sticky, overworn rear brakes even when presented with evidence that this was a known issue. They wanted $400 to fix it and this was IN warranty. :mad:

    I did it myself and make a pint to lube the pivot points up when I change the wheels twice a year.

    That is the one and only time my car has been to a dealer. I have a trusted local mechanic for work I can't do myself.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Kings Mazda/Suzuki has treated me well. Jake Sweeney has improved to the point where I'd use them. They were good when I first moved here, then they tanked for several years. I hear good stuff about Jeff Wyler, but I won't drive that far for service.

    I've had questionable or bad service done by some independents, and some OK work too. They may have to learn a bit, depending on whether they've worked on Proteges before (one ordered the wrong coil springs for my '89 323LX when I had the struts and springs changed - couple years later, one of the techs got himself a '00 Protege, so he probably knew how to work on them, but I never went back). One independent that a good friend recommended did a hack job on my brakes. They totally beat-up the rear drum covers.

    I do stuff like change oil, air filter, battery, light bulbs, wheel rotations, spark plugs & wires etc. For stuff that takes more time, or I can't responsibly dispose of fluids (like timing belt, brakes, coolant), I have the dealership service department do. Just a personal preference.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Just wanted to chime in and agree that we should question services provided by either dealers or independents. Since dealers have technicians that work on the same line of cars for years you would think they would have the most expertise to handle yours. On the other hand, independents are noted for providing services at less cost and without being beholden to protecting the manufacturer's reputation. The problems I've noticed is that if the management of either the dealership or the independent does not make customer loyalty its top priority, they end up treating us as a transaction that should be maximized by suggesting additional services whether they be necessary or not. The truly unscrupulous perform services at a substandard level or overcharge or charge for services not rendered. So does that mean all dealers and independents are part of demonic cabals out to rip your credit card out of your wallet? In an annual test using hidden cameras and bait vehicles, an auto consumer group (Automobile Protection Association) and a TV network has found that neither dealers nor independents are immune to these practices; the good news is they found trustworthy firms also. In sum, the only guarantee of good customer service is based on due diligence, some neighbourly advice and rewarding those with the right attitude to their customers. As we all know the lowest price is not always the best value.
  • jabba1900jabba1900 Member Posts: 20
    Some great points are being made here, and I'm glad to see that Mazda owners are a level headed bunch! :)

    There are crooks in all kinds of industries, and our job as consumers is to take due diligence to avoid being ripped off. As has already been mentioned, this would include asking friends, family, and neighbours, checking Internet forums, questioning mechanics and inspecting work that has been done. Now, what must be said though is that those of us that partcipate in these discussions are probably less likely to be ripped off. We are mostly careful about shopping around, and we come in here to share our experiences. The average car owner on the other hand doesn't take the time to chack dozens of Internet sites and do lots of research before having a repair job done in order to check for a reputable shop to go to or find out whether an item should be covered under warranty. They will often rely on the shop where they bought the car, and thus set themselves up to be the victim of ruthless business practices. I'm not saying this happens all the time, as I'm sure there are lots of good dealers out there. But without prior knowledge it is easy to get sucked in by a dealer's warnings that taking your car elsewhere might not get your car repaired properly and might void your warranty.

    In my experience a dealer will always be more expensive when performing service and doing repairs. At the same time, I have never really seen anything that justifies the higher price. The quality of work is a gamble as it is no matter where you take the car, and all the extras they claim to perform (20-point inspections etc.) you can easily do yourself for free.

    Based on my own reasoning and experience I have come to the conclusion that dealerships will never be allowed to service my cars. However, I completely understand that other people might feel differently, and I'm sure there are lots of excellent dealerships out there. It's a matter of personal preference and comfort level, but just make sure you do your homework before deciding who gets to tinker with your baby! :)
  • jabba1900jabba1900 Member Posts: 20
    Sorry about the Eric confusion earlier. I guess I responded to the wrong post!
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Very well spoken, well written. I agree, although I will use a dealer for some services where they are price competitive (like oil changes with coupons), and refuse the extras they push. Dealers can be more convienent than independents, such as drop-in oil changes.

    To be fair to dealers, the franchise 20-minute oil change places can be even worse when it comes to pushing unneeded parts and service. At least the service tech at the dealer has changed the oil on that make of car, and usually knows what they are doing.
  • flipmackflipmack Member Posts: 12
    ...and walked out with a $500 bill for the following:

    - 'lifetime' F/R pads
    - resurfacing of F/R rotors
    - brake system flush

    $500 is a pretty atrocious bill for a complete brake job, but the fact that the dealer offered a lifetime warranty (for the life of the vehicle) on the pads kind of sealed the deal for me...since from other experience with other vehicles (BMW, Mitsubishi, and Nissan), OEM pads don't last this long (original pads on the P5 lasted for almost 65K miles).

    most specifically, my wife's 2000 Nissan Maxima has had brake problems since day one and the dealers that we've taken the car to never seem to solve the problem and only offer a limited warranty for their parts and labor.

    Heritage Mazda in Tustin, CA may have cost me $500 for a complete brake job, but the peace of mind in knowing that the local MOCC (Mazda Owners' Club of California) recommended the dealer for service AND the lifetime warranty on the pads made the $500 worth it.

    I've performed all routine maintenance on the Protege5 myself but took it to two different independent service shops for the 30K and 60K service. I didn't have a bad experience with either of the independents, and surprisingly, I didn't have a bad experience with Heritage Mazda. They even gave me a rental car for free since they were out of loaner cars.

    Anyway, that's my two cents. Ask around and get opinions from local patrons before you dismiss the Mazda dealer for service.

    ...now if I could only say the same for Nissan dealers for service...
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Same as Midas or many of the other big chains... lifetime warranty on the parts, but you pay the labor. My independent will resurface the rotors for free. I'll let you all know the total for my next brake job, which will include new rotors. It won't be what the dealers in this area charge.
  • brownie1brownie1 Member Posts: 1
    New to this board. Very happy new owner of a 2003 MP5, 44K, manual, black. Being a novice however, I didn't realize that the car came with low profile tires/wheels (bought from dealer). I believe what I have on their are 205/35/18 Dunlop Sport tires on Enkei wheels. I think both the wheels & tires are very expenseive but very much not appropriate for my driving needs so I need to replace them with more standard tires/wheels. Based on board discussions, I have some good options to choose from - but it's going to cost me! Anyone know the best forumn to sell these tires/rims I currently have. The tires appear new, the wheels/rims a little bit scuffed but very nice looking. Who would be the market for these? (young racers living in AZ or CA?) Any idea what a decent asking price is? Thanks for any advice.
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Try craigslist in your area. There are also other Mazda related forums. Google Protege Forums. I like the OEM wheels the best. Maybe you could get someone to trade for their stock wheels/tires.
  • woddywoddy Member Posts: 12
    Hi Dan or anybody who might have an insight:
    I came across these postings while looking for information on suspension issues. I have a suspension question, if you'd be willing to share your thoughts.

    I'm hearing a slight clunking sound coming from what seems like the front left suspension in my Pro5. It occurs when I'm going over uneven pavement. Just a slight clunk clunk corresponding to the bumps in the road. With my limited car knowledge, I suspect it is a strut. Does that sound right to you? If so, are struts for a Pro5 expensive?
  • camarillobrillcamarillobrill Member Posts: 44
    struts are somewhat common on these cars but more likely is the front swaybar link(s). take the car in to any dealer to have an oil change and mention if they could check the sway barlink or struts. All mazda dealers are supposed to do an inspection of every vehicle that enters the shop. They should not charge you extra. If you decide to do the work at the dealer-great- if not at least you will know what it needs..,....
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I believe what I have ... are 205/35/18 Dunlop Sport tires on Enkei wheels.

    Wow! I would not think they would fit on the P5. They also sound very pricey. If you switch, you'll need both new tires and new wheels. The OEM specifications are 195/50 Dunlop tires on 16 inch alloy rims.

    Here's an idea. Pretend you have OEM equipment, call a local tire specialist or auto customizer, and ask what it would cost to upgrade to the ones your car has. Once you know the price of the new tires+rims, I would then consider how much of a discount to offer; personally, I would not pay more than 50% of the original cost for used tires and rims.
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  • woddywoddy Member Posts: 12
    Since my last posting I took the car to two mechanics. Niether of them said they could hear anything (it is as clear as day to me). One of the mechanics said that although he couldn't hear anything, he put it up on the rack and said that my left front strut is in quite bad shape, but didn't say anything about sway bars. Does that sound right to you?
  • camarillobrillcamarillobrill Member Posts: 44
    front struts are very common (just replaced BOTH on my 02 p5). Should take care of your problem. Sometimes front /rear struts are replaced in pairs, see if they will give you a deal on replacing both. Also tell them to be careful disconnecting the sway bar link from the strut.
  • scfranscfran Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Protege 5 and whenever it gets close to a quarter of a tank of gas, the engine starts mis-firing and when it gets really bad, the yellow engine-check light comes on. As soon as I fill the tank, the problem goes away! :confuse:
  • jabba1900jabba1900 Member Posts: 20
    I'm not the most knowledgable poster in these forums, but I would recommend taking your car to the dealer as soon as possible. If the check engine light has been on, an error code should be recorded in the onboard computer. The dealership has the equipment to read the code and diagnose the problem.

    I know I've said in the past that I'm not a big fan of taking my car back to the dealership for any kind of servicing (except warranty repairs of course), but if I ever had a check engine light come on, I would go back there, since I believe they are best qualified (and have the best equipment) for diagnosing.

    Still, others might have experienced similar problems as you (although this is the first I've heard of it in these forums), so hopefully they can provide some advice.
  • zimmerdjzimmerdj Member Posts: 1
    My name is Derek, new to the forum and very impressed with the knowledge and support that everyone seems to lend on this site. I am currently having a problem with the clutch on my '02 Protege5 wagon. The clutch is chirping when it is NOT engaged. Once engaged the chirping goes away. I have no problems with the transmission itself, it seems to be shifting fine. Every once in a while the clutch with slip a bit upon release, but it doesnt seem to be a huge problem.... however I am not extremely familiar with manual transmissions and am not aware if this is going to be a severe problem in the future. My father mentioned to me that the chirping could be the slave cylinder. Can anyone pass some information on to me about what my problem might be and how much parts and labor could possibly be? Thanks a lot.
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  • ripcordripcord Member Posts: 23
    I think I have a wheel bearing that is very close to the end of it's life expectancy. It is making an awful humming/whining noise. My P5 pulls to the right constantly and when I veer left it really grumbles. I am assuming my right wheel bearing is shot. Anyone know what the going rate to replace a wheel bearing is? I am debating doing the work myself, I have the technical skills, just not sure on the time, but I would hate to part with $500 for something that I can do myself. Your advice is welcome.
  • tortoise_486tortoise_486 Member Posts: 8
    I had a similar issue with my 02 P5. If it's the same thing: DON'T WORRY it's nothing major.

    The chirping noise is coming from a pair of springs that keep the exhaust system together. If you follow the exhaust from the engine, just after it levels off there will be a junction. This junction is held together by a pair of springs & bolts. Odds are this spring and bolt combo is pretty rusted.v When you engage the clutch, the engine rocks in its mounts. This rocking motion causes the springs to squeak or chirp.

    I solved the problem by driving one set of tires onto a curb. Then I crawled under the car with a can of silicone lubricant and sprayed the crap out of them. Remember to do this when the car's cold. The squeaking hasn't returned in 8 months.

    Good Luck
  • fries1fries1 Member Posts: 12
    mazda has a service notice on the clutch to be replaced with a larger one. I have an 02 P5 as well and the dealer said that the smaller clutch was from the smaller engine and causes issues as it was never intended for the 2liter. It was never an official recall but mazda will replace free if there's an issue and yours is still the smaller size.
    Brian
  • dwryterdwryter Member Posts: 87
    Brian wrote:

    "mazda has a service notice on the clutch to be replaced with a larger one. I have an 02 P5 as well and the dealer said that the smaller clutch was from the smaller engine and causes issues as it was never intended for the 2liter. It was never an official recall but mazda will replace free if there's an issue and yours is still the smaller size."

    Hi, Brian. I just called my Mazda dealer and the service advisor said he'd never heard of this, and has no TSB on it. Can you please tell me the TSB number, or provide some more information I can use to get my clutch problem taken care of, too? My '87 Honda Civic Si had 130k miles on the original clutch when I sold it (and it was still fine), but my P5 clutch intermittently grabs during release at only 39k miles, and has since about 30k miles. Thanks!
  • p5initp5init Member Posts: 2
    Hey everyone, really new here as you may see.
    I own a 2002 P5, and unfortunately have come across the problem of a bent rim. Can anyone give me some more information on sizing. I know that I require a 16"x6.0" rim, 5 stud pattern but does anyone have any other information ?? I'm finding it very hard to come across anything. Does anyone have any connections where I might be able to find a set of used rims? Tried EBay seems to be useless Seeking HELP! lol Spanks! :P
  • ripcordripcord Member Posts: 23
    Where are you located? In Southwestern Ontario, the Tri-Ad magazine would probably have what you are looking for. Depending on your budget, you can also price up new aftermarket rims at www.tirerack.com in US or http://www.tiretrends.com/ in Canada. Good luck.
  • p5initp5init Member Posts: 2
    I'm located in the Greater Toronto Area. I will try the sources that you have recommended! Thanks! :)
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    According to the Mazda Protege manual there are four brands of spark plugs that are recommended: Mazda, NGK, Champion, Denso. I was intending to replace mine with the Mazda BP13-18-110 (standard type plug) but I noticed there was another option the Mazda BP14-18-110 (cold type plug). Any words of advice on spark plugs?
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    When I purchased my "Mazda" plugs they turned out to be a Mazda box with NGK BKR5E-11 spark plugs inside. These are called "standard type" as opposed to "cold type" plugs.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    NGK has a great site which explains spark plugs, ignition coils, etc. The spark plug section notes that "cold" plugs are used if you added a turbo to your P5; otherwise, for most of us the standard plugs are used.
  • jtzksjtzks Member Posts: 2
    Hey everyone, new to this site was wondering if anyone can help me out. I currently own an 03 Protege5 with 55000km whos lease is almost up. I really love this car, and have had zero problems with it so far. I am considering buying out the lease, and wondering if there are any special things i should have looked at on the car as the lease as the warranty is also coming to an end. Thanks
  • jabba1900jabba1900 Member Posts: 20
    Keeping that 03 P5 is a wise decision. My 02 is at 100000 kms now with no major problems. The car still feels tight and drives like new.

    The only thing I can think of is that you check the brakes. This is the only known issue (that I know of at least) with the P5. The brakes have a tendency to get stuck with buildup of mud and salt. This can be prevented by having the sliding pin lubricated on a regular basis. I've heard people on this board getting their brakes replaced under warranty when this happens.
  • wonderwallwonderwall Member Posts: 126
    Keep the sucker. Not only is it reliable and fun, but safe as well. Had a late 1990s Buick LeSabre ram into the passenger door going 55 MPH through a red light, while my wife was in the passenger seat. She walked away with a scratch and a couple of bruises and I only had bruises from the seatbelt. If I hadn't worked out such a tremendous deal on a Hyundai Elantra hatchback, I would've bought another one.
  • jtzksjtzks Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice. I plan on purchasing the car within the next 2 weeks. :)
  • mp5bibbitzmp5bibbitz Member Posts: 3
    :shades: I've owned my 2003 Protege5 for 2 weeks now, and Wow. Have absolutely no problems with it. Runs like a dream and with only 35K on it, there's still a ton of life left in it. Only wish it was a little faster. It's peppy, but not quick. Thinking of maybe adding a turbo to it. Pros/Cons on turbocharging?
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Thinking of maybe adding a turbo to it. Pros/Cons on turbocharging?

    Have you heard of the Mazdaspeed3, a turbo charged version of the Mazda3? You may want to start saving your money for the real rocket. :)
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Turbo would be spendy. I don't think it's worth it. Cheaper to buy the 02-03 MSM sedan or new MSM 3.
  • mp5bibbitzmp5bibbitz Member Posts: 3
    Cheaper to buy a new car than to turbo the current one? I doubt the MSM is less than 4 grand, but I do see your point.
  • lucky8lucky8 Member Posts: 1
    Hey,,all,,i need a sixteen inch rim for an '02,,,i believe there are two oem types,,,one is five spoke n relatively plain,,,the other,,,i believe has a flute on the spokes,,,
    any help out there,,,???,,,,thanx,,,
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Not talking about initial turbo outlay... just the longterm costs. If you were going to keep the P5 for a long time and you had someone you could trust to do a good install (and maintain it), the turbo might be worth it. If you're just looking for a little extra power and don't plan to keep the car for a long time, you'd be better selling the P5 and buying an OEM turbo. You'll never recover the costs when you sell it. I'd love to turbo my Miata, but just can't justify the cost vs. value of the car. Here's an example of a 90 turbo. http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/162659164.html This seller will never recover the costs of what he's put into this car. It's worth maybe $4500. It would be a lot of fun though.

    If it's worth it to you though, go for it.
  • mp5bibbitzmp5bibbitz Member Posts: 3
    I just got the car this month. It's the first car I've bought, and I have to make payments on it for the next several years. I doubt I'll be getting rid of it any time soon. I really think that the big chunk of money would be actually buying and installing. Once it's in there, it would be about like maintaining any other part of the engine.
  • flipmackflipmack Member Posts: 12
    over the past two weeks, my Protege5 (2002.5, 70500 HWY miles, everything stock except for short-shift kit) has developed a pretty noticeable "clunk" in the passenger-side rear end.

    I removed everything from the inside of the car, and it wasn't anything shaking...then, I looked underneath and I noticed that there's a plastic 'shroud' around the trailing link that seems to be open...and it wasn't open on the driver-side rear.

    I looked at the service manual and this 'shroud' is nowhere to be found.

    I jacked the car up, then put the 'shroud' back together, but it didn't fix anything...the clunk still remains.

    I searched the other bulletin boards and this rear-end 'clunk' is only common among Mazdaspeed Proteges and MP3's, mainly due to the bushings used in the rear sway bar.

    I looked at the bushings in my rear sway bar and they looked fine (no noticeable lateral movement).

    any ideas before I take the car to the $tealer (dealer)?

    thanks.

    flipmack
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    When does the clunk occur most noticeably?
    When you say "service manual" is that the online one? I found that you sometimes have to look through several chapters to get the necessary information.
  • chicagoprochicagopro Member Posts: 1,009
    When I got my end links replaced, the clunks disappeared.
  • flipmackflipmack Member Posts: 12
    so I managed to get rid of the clunk that plagued my Protege5 by an unconventional method...

    ...I traded it in for a new 2006 Honda Odyssey EX-L.

    yeah. push came to shove and the dealer wanted $800 for new rear struts/towers. my wife wanted a new car...therefore, perfect opportunity.

    got the Odyssey EX-L for $1600 below invoice. it helps that we got a referral and that we bought on May 31st...end of the month and following a major holiday.

    I'm driving my wife's 2000 Maxima now...and I miss the Protege5.

    :(
  • shriqueshrique Member Posts: 338
    02.5 or 02?

    The smoother rim was from the 02. Easy way to tell is if you have side marker lights or not. The 2002 has no side markers and the 2002.5/2003 do.

    I happen to have 2 cherry rims that have been sitting in my garage since I banged up the other twos and was unable to find replacements. Dang potholes. Of course I do have 4 nice new looking aftermarkets though. (GRIN)

    EDIT: did I mention mine are the 2002? hehe
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=43956&item=807- 1077241
    it looks like this one
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    A national news magazine is looking to interview college students who has “pimped” out his/her ride Have you tricked out your car with big rims, outrageous stereos, wild paint jobs, spoilers, ground effects, neon lights, nitrous, the works . Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Friday, June 9, 2006 by 5:00 PM PT/8:00 PM ET containing your daytime contact information and the make and model of the car you’ve “pimped” out.

    Thanks,
    Chintan Talati
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com
  • rodholmesrodholmes Member Posts: 1
    Anyone got a roof rack for a 2003 Protege5 in the Chicago area they'd like to sell?
  • jolsenamijolsenami Member Posts: 1
    Do you still have those two rims? I happen to be in the market for a couple. Thanks-
This discussion has been closed.

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