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Mazda Protege5

11718202223154

Comments

  • butler11butler11 Member Posts: 12
    I've had my vin # for about 3 weeks now.The dealer told me that the car has been on rail for 3 days now.They told me that on Monday.It's only to take 10 -11 days to get from West Coast to where I live (London ,Ontario .Can).So next week some time .Can't wait!.Mine is Yellow .Does any one have any ideas on personalize plate for the P5 let me Know.
  • pro5girliepro5girlie Member Posts: 20
    I called my salesman, cause I'll be on vacation for a week, and said that my car is coming the first week of August also. I ordered around 5/29. He didn't give a VIN # either. I'm not worried. I'll just wait. I'm sick of worrying if it's coming in or not. He says first week, that's what I expect. I can't wait, though!
  • phasorphasor Member Posts: 12
    Whoever said that the black mounting strips do not come on Canadian models of the P5 is incorrect. Every Canadian P5 I have seen, including my 1-week old blue P5, has two black strips, slightly lower than the roof, running down the length of the car on both sides. On each strip, there are two plastic plugs that you can pop off, one at the back and one at the front, which reveal, what look like to me, to be mounting points for a roof rack.
  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    If the black strips are slighly lower than the roof, then those are the rain gutters/weld covers and not the roof rack mounting strips. Also, the roof rack mounting strips don't run the length of the car... they run from about where the moonroof would start and end at the rear hatch. The roof rack mounting strips are approximately 2"-3" wide and protrude about 1/2"-1" above the roof. Take a look at this picture of a U.S. Pro5.


    Right Half of Pro5


    Left Half of Pro5


    Unfortunately, Mazda posts their graphics in sections, so you can only see half of the car at once. You can see the recessed black rain gutters which start at the windshield. Now look at the mounting racks. They start on either side of the moonroof and are considerably wider and taller than the black rain gutters. All U.S. Pro5's come with those permanently installed and the crossmember attach to these. Does your Canadian Pro5 have those?

  • phasorphasor Member Posts: 12
    No, it doesn't, but I call those black mounting strips 'part of the roof rack'. If I were to remove 'the roof rack', I would take them off. The rain gutters already have special holes in them where the mounting strips go on, you don't have to drill holes yourself or anything. On my car, the holes are covered by removeable plastic plugs. You are saying that the black mounting strips are permanently installed, I'm just saying that that does not appear to be the case.
  • compensatecompensate Member Posts: 212
    I agree that the P5 handles better. Those big wheels and low profile tires were tempting to me. If I was on a winding road, I would have more fun in the P5 without a doubt. And my wife still drives our 1999 Protege ES (45,000 miles on it and no problems).

    However, those crash test ratings were on the 2001 Elantra GLS, not the 2001.5 Elantra GT, which came out many months later. Structural integrity in these same tests, however, showed that the Elantra GLS was as good as any. And for the 5mph bumper damage test, the 2001 Elantra showed $0 in damage, front and rear, a rare feat. The Elantra GT also includes STANDARD side impact air bags.

    All-in-all, money was a VERY big issue for me, and I saved over $3,500 on my Elantra GT - the Mazda dealers here were selling the P5s above MSRP as they are selling fast. I must see the two P5 commercials every day on every network channel for a couple of months now.

    Good luck with your P5s everyone, but those who are low on cash should really consider the Elantra GT. Smooth car.
  • tcinsftcinsf Member Posts: 3
    O.k. folks, I have read alot of issues in regards to the vin #s' and delivery date. just to let you all know, I did not just sit there and wait for the car to arrive. I shopped around the 75 mile radius that's 8 dealerships. I called all the dealerships at least once a week, checking to see if the car i wanted was in. if your smart about it you would shop from at least three dealers(let them fight for your business) and do not let any dealer trick you into thinking this car is a hot seller and it's special order only. there is some truth to it (because they are slow in production, but the truth is that the dealers are holding out to see which buyer is going to pay over MSRP(greedy bastards)or they want you to think the car is so hot that you as a buyer have to pay top $'s for it. 2. Please, do not buy this car at either dealer suggest price or at MSRP, because this is a niche car and believe me they are not going all that fast. the dealers are trying to cash in on the hype of a new car. I been to several dealers who told me they sold all their P5 befor i got there and the car I wanted (silver 5sp ABS/moon roof) is their last one. Guess what, that car is still sitting in the show room two months after I bought my P5 at another dealership for alot below MSRP. i dealt with the internet manager, because I found out most of them are not working on commission, they are working on how many cars they sell and customer service reviews. best of luck on all your buying experience. remember do not pay MSRP
  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    I didn't know that the gutter rails already have holes for the roof rack. Since all Protege5's in the U.S. come with the rack mounting strips already installed, I have never seen how they mount. However, if someone were to remove their's, would it be possible to get the plugs to cover the holes?
  • tcinsftcinsf Member Posts: 3
    there should be 4 black plastic plates that covers the the roof rail when the racks are removed. 2 plates are shorter for the front covering and the other two are longer for the back half.
  • aardvark_markaardvark_mark Member Posts: 95
    Thank you all for the feedback on the vin# situation.. seems a lot of us are expecting protege 5's the first week in august, regardless of when the car was ordered.. will be interesting to see how things turn out :).. of course if I hear anything new I'll be sure to let you all know. cheer -Mark
  • sunbyrnesunbyrne Member Posts: 210
    Compensate: If the Elantra GT holds out better in the crash test and/or Hyundai addresses the problem, then I agree that it's a tough call. I do like the Pro5 better but the Elantra is cheaper, which would make it a very close call indeed.

    tcinsf: What kind of deal you're going to get is going to depend on your local market, A LOT. We had massive flooding down here recently and it's still pretty much a sellers market. Combined with the short supply, it's rough. I've talked to three dealers here and they all basically said "MSRP or walk". Most of them really _can't_ keep the cars on their lots, particularly the 5-speed. I had to go to three dealers to even find a 5-speed to test drive, and that was the last 5-speed on the lot. I think I could haggle that dealer down on an automatic, but I don't want an automatic. So YMMV.
  • rachafe9rachafe9 Member Posts: 3
    redshift,

    I have a silver Pro5 with moonroof & abs. I kept the roof rack off and have ordered a wind deflector for it. This weekend is the big test, I'm driving to Nashville and back! See ya around.

    PS - Does anyone have experience with installing the 6-disc in-dash changer?
  • elec3elec3 Member Posts: 160
    I've been driving my silver Protege5 for well over a month now and have 750 miles on it. So far it's been a wonderful little car and I enjoy getting in it every day, even if only to fight traffic on the way to work. Everyone who is waiting for one, keep waiting, it's worth it.

    This is actually my family's 6th Mazda (we've had just about one of everything and still own 4) purchased from the same dealer so the service we got was excellent. I came to the lot to look at Protege ES models as well as the Hyundai Elantra and Sonata and while wandering around said "Hey...what the heck is that strange wagon looking thing?" It was a loaded black P5, of course it sold by the time I decided to buy one but the dealer got a few more in. I ended up choosing a silver one that had everything I wanted but the moonroof so the dealer had one put in for ~US$700 or so that IMO is nicer than the factory one (hell, it closes itself when you shut the car off). The dealer also offered to put in anything else (leather, disc changer, etc.) but I declined. I got the special financing and my payment is around US$365 a month for 60 months with nothing down - not too bad.

    I find this car handles very nicely, my previous vehicle being a Mazda B2300 pickup which was a comparative chore to drive. The car corners very flat and feels stable in most all situations. Room is very good, especially headroom and also legroom in the back seat. This would make a great college roadtrip car. The hatch has a nice low lift-in height and space is decent but not overwhelming. It'll be interesting when I make my 1500 mile journey back to school in a month, but I think I'll manage.

    There are a few things I don't like about my P5 but most are minor and have already been pointed out here. One is the door lock. Cars with standard power locks should not have a button lock in the window frame. I don't use it. If my window is open and I put my arm on the frame, it's also on the button. Ouch. The armrest is too low and too small to be used as an armrest or for meaningful storage. Your best bet is change, a cell phone, or as many CDs in slimline jewel cases as you can cram in there. I don't like the location of the (shallow) cupholders, they should perhaps be further back. As everyone else has mentioned, the stereo is somewhat weak. It seems to be good for electronic music that isn't very bass heavy or guitar-centric rock like Metallica but not much else. I think a pair of 10" subs in the hatch would help add some body to the sound but it just doesn't have the clarity and power that says "hi, I'm a high end car stereo". This is on my list of things to fix/replace as soon as I have some money. My last and perhaps biggest gripe is, oddly enough, performance. This is NOT a sports car. It's a very good and fun to drive functional vehicle. It's quick. It's not fast. This car is wonderful for getting around town and not bad on the highway either but it won't make your blood boil (unless perhaps you were previously driving an oh-so-anemic B2300 pickup). That's also on my list of things to do once I have some money. I think this car might begin to impress with a chip and/or turbo but I don't know how feasible either really is. I would imagine putting a turbo or twin turbos on a large 4 like the Protege5 has would give some pretty nice performance but I also have an automatic and the tranny might not be able to handle the extra power.

    All told, this is one of those rare cars that looks good, is very functional, and is still fun to drive. It's not perfect but it is quite solid and will turn heads. I just hope the Focus based Proteges come soon so we can all enjoy a somewhat limited circulation vehicle...at least until I can afford that Porsche Boxster S :)
  • pmagspmags Member Posts: 11
    Hi all,

    My wife and I have been in the market for a new car - preferably a station wagon or hatchback for the extra space. I've been following the Protoge5 discussions and have test driven the Pro5 several times. I really liked the car, and felt the room was fairly generous given the size and MPG that this car gets.

    My wife, however, had a different take. She didn't like the looks of the car at all, and said she felt particularly cramped when she sat in the back seat. She much preferred the Protoge sedan but wasn't crazy about that either. One of our motivations for getting a new car was to have more space than my '93 Saturn SL2 currently affords (which the Pro does, but not a lot more), and so glumly I had to cross the Pro off our list.

    Despite the fact that we did not end up buying a Mazda (this time around), I would highly recommend Milford Mazda on Boston Post Road (915 Boston Post Road, Milford CT). I was dealing with a salesman named Brian Lown who was polite, helpful, and willing to negotiate.

    They had several Pro5s on the lot, last time I was there (black,red,and silver if I remember correctly). They also indicated that they were willing to accept the S-Plan on the Pro5.

    If you're in the CT area they are worth checking out.

    --Paul

    p.s. We ended up going with a Subaru Outback Wagon (not the Sport) - MUCH bigger, more powerful, but also less fuel efficient (rated 22/27). I hope that the legendary Subaru reliability turns out to be true.
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    The Subaru reliability that is, plus the added safety benefit of AWD in any kind of weather (not just snow) can't be underestimated. I'm on my 2nd Soob only because, as much as I liked my 00'OB Ltd wagon, I liked the WRX wagon w/5spd even more! I even warmed up to its looks. That is something that I never had to do after looking at the Pro5. The Pro5 is a very sharp looking car! You made a fine choice w/the Subaru though, especially if safety and room were on your list.

    Stephen
  • phasorphasor Member Posts: 12
    At what RPM's should I be shifting the Pro5's 2.0L engine at for:
    1) the break-in period
    2) after the break-in period
    3) best fuel economy
    4) best acceleration?

    Thanks
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I don't have any experience installing it, but I hear it's pretty easy. All you have to do is change the cartridge in the dashboard that holds the CD when it plays, and the faceplate of the radio for the new buttons. Dealer told me they charge one hour's labor, or $80, to do it.
  • bluong1bluong1 Member Posts: 1,927
    1) the break-in period: I usually shift at 3500-4000rpm. Don't accelerate hard, varying the cruising speed on the Hwy, (in consequense don't use the cruise control). If you shift up at 3500rpm, the tac will drop to 1950, 2489, 2592, 2724rpm for 2-5th gear respectively. In consequense, when you decelerate and shift back, the right moment is when the tac drops about 2000-2500rmp, so that the engine will never have to rev faster than 3500 rpm when you release the clutch. If the engine is warm enough, you could push the rpm to 4500 for a brief period of time, but do id smoothly. Smooth driving is a keyword for break-in period.
    2) after the break-in period: 3500-4500rpm, depending on the trafic, road condition, engine temperature, etc... Better wait until the engine warm up correcly before pushing hard the accelerator.
    3) for the best fuel economy, shifting is one thing, but having a light right foot is also important. Accelerate as smooth as you can, and shift around 3000rpm. Also anticipate stopping. If you see a red light ahead, no need to keep the car at high speed and break at the last moment. Modern car don't need to be warm up, just drive right the way when you start it, however treat it gently for the first few miles.
    4) Best acceleration: I usualy do not spend a lot of time on
    the first gear on the flat road. For others gears, I shift the
    gear at 5500-6000rpm.

    Bruno
  • import2k1import2k1 Member Posts: 15
    Anyone know if the 1.9 % financing for 36 month and the 4.9 % financing for 48 months is still applicable for the p5? Looking through the newpaper does not reveal this promotion other than 0% for 2001 proteges. Anyone think that from the rear seat to the back of the car is too short? I wonder what would happen to your passengers in the event of an accident.

    Thanks!

    Import
    RSX or P5 that is the question
  • cgwan1cgwan1 Member Posts: 1
    I suggest to buy the OE moonroof deflector and remove the cross bars from the roof rack to reduce wind noise. The security system is a good choice too as well as the cargo net. Some new hot accessories coming up: Plastic cargo liner and cargo mat for the trunk, rear bumper guard to protect the bumper, high watt front speakers.
    Love the car!!
  • havajackhavajack Member Posts: 1
    i recently purchased the new silver protege 5 and i have it a month and really like it. having read some of the comments here i find it interesting and very informative. my rear right tire leaked air for weeks , i took it to dealer and they replaced it without questions,hmmm. gas , well 20mpg on the road is this normal? THE RADIO IS FLAT i will look into spkrs, thanks all in all a great fun car to drive. i havent seenone other on the road here in south fl?
  • lolmanlolman Member Posts: 10
    From earlier posts I saw that the speaker sizes are 5x7 front and 6.5 rear. My question is whether the factory head unit has enough power to drive decent aftermarket speakers, and does anyone know how much the output of the factory head unit is.
  • dreantedreante Member Posts: 7
    Curious. Can anyone tell me the going price to tint the windows? Also, I've read about chips for increased HP. Basically, I what to know what inexpensive options are available to add UMPHH to an otherwise terrific car?

    BTW, I paid $800 for two-tone leather seats, and the car looks sharp.
  • phoenixmp5phoenixmp5 Member Posts: 60
    It was mentioned earlier, that the head unit produces around 35 watts per channel! Though I haven't been able to verify the rating, the deck putts out an ample amount of power and can sound quite impressive when matched-up to real speakers.
  • iamziamz Member Posts: 542
    A freind at work had all windows (excluding the windshield) on his WRX wagon tinted at 35% at a cost of around $240. Since the P5 has the same number of windows, you could expect the same cost.

    -Terry
  • onboost91onboost91 Member Posts: 86
    I had all the windows on my silver P5 tinted (35% fronts/20% rears) including a strip on the windshield for like $215. The price will certainly vary as the place I went to (Ziebart) was running a special. I also managed to convince them not to count the tiny little rear triangles as seperate windows (if they do your price will go up). The tinting made the car look even better IMO.
    -Mark
  • timbone11timbone11 Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    Has anyone seen the cargo mat or plastic liner? What do they look like? How much? Any pics online?

    Thanks,

    Loving owner of a Blue P5 Auto
    timbone11
  • phoenixmp5phoenixmp5 Member Posts: 60
    There's been several mentions of people NOT noticing an overwhelming amount of roof rack noise! I think I figured out why last weekend.

    I was taking off the roof rack (too much noise) when I noticed that unlike the rear cross-bar, the front bar is NOT stamped "L" or "R" and can be mounted with the grooves pointing forward or back. I changed the bar around to the more logical and aerodynamic position,(grooves pointing to the rear) and greatly reduced the amount of noise it produced.

    My vehicle is equipped with the moon roof defector and this change reduced my wind noise by almost 50% and eliminated the whistle. I no longer hear wind noise while driving on the freeway with the moon roof closed and the noise is tolerable when open.

    The rear cross-bar can only be mounted with the groove pointing forward, so you can't change it around. It also, doesn't produce the noise level of the front either.

    Also, for those who have asked about removing the cross-bars; Unscrew the plastic caps and lift the upper part of the cap up and toward you. There are two metal clips, one on each side which keep the caps sandwiched together. Also, be sure to use a six sided socket while turning the cross-bar bolts as they are thread locked and may strip with 12 sided sockets.

    Ryan
  • razorrabbitrazorrabbit Member Posts: 15
    I bought my Pro5 basic model w/ Automatic transmission for 16750. No other options. Anyone else?
  • phasorphasor Member Posts: 12
    I'm in Vancouver too, just got a Blue Pro5 5-speed air & moon. I'm surprised you're having trouble getting test drives, I had no problems. I got my car from Summit but I wouldn't recommend them, they tried to screw me, although things turned out OK. Maybe that is normal, I don't know, it is my first new car. My co-worker deals with a female dealer at the Boundary location, says she's quite good. As for future Pro5's, I think I read that they will get the Ford Ztech engine. Don't know about HP boost though.
  • krotinekrotine Member Posts: 93
    Just wanted to know if anyone has this product or has ordered it and how much they paid for it. My dealer wants $135 installed. (Now how hard could it be to install one of these?)
  • fishercoltfishercolt Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone, just bought a red 5-speed P5 with air and moon roof. Love the car but the buying experience was something else, Dealer tried to screw me on admin. costs to a total of 400$. Need some input what accessories are worth getting (cargo mat, nose bra, moon roof deflector, roof rack, etc.)? Are there mud flaps available for the P5?
  • the_rock73the_rock73 Member Posts: 8
    Don't buy any cars from Summit Mazda. The salespeople will try to intimidate and screw you.
    Although I managed to convince them to let me test drive a Protege 5 and after I told him I'm going over to Wolfe Mazda to buy the P5 because I don't like your attitude.He was pissed!
  • gtone99gtone99 Member Posts: 1
    Great! Now I know there's at least 2 peeps where I am. I don't feel too alone now. :*)
    Anyways, went to 4 Mazda dealerships.
    Richmond Mazda: They didn't look like they had one available at the time to test-drive
    Wolfe Mazda/Subaru Surrey: The guy (Michael) was great. Didn't give me any trouble when I asked for a test drive. Was pretty helpful, though seemed to not know as much about the car. Here's the bad part. Test drive car ran out of gas!!! in 5 mins. Yes! No Joke! At least now I know he owes me another test drive for that ambarrasing situation. Will probably head back there again.
    Mazda on Main & 12th(Regency?): Some european shmuck gave me real attitude about if I were to test drive one, i gotta be serious about buying it. He had the impression like i was just some kid out test driving cars for the heck of it. Never coming back here
    Summit Mazda: Was able to convince the salesperson (Danny) to test-drive one, however, the idiot wouldn't even let me drive it out on Hastings fearing it would get hit by a truck. Claims the car is already sold and the guy's coming to get it soon. Whatever. I at least got to drive a 5-speed this time and seems to shift well enough for my taste. Told the guy I would need to think about my financing options first, then he complained that I had tricked him into getting a test-drive and not buying it if I liked it.

    This is the first time I'm buying a new car. Does anyone have pointers as to how to approach salespeople to get test-drives and make it appear that you're serious about buying the car, but of course not buy it immediately? What routine do you guys use?

    Any other recommended Mazda dealers in the lower mainland?

    BTW, phasor & the_rock73, if you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for your car?
    You can e-mail me: gt_one99@hotmail.com
  • pocahontaspocahontas Member Posts: 802
    Hi everyone- Gotta ask some of you to please be a little easy on the language, as some of post here are a little border line on what's allowed. For further clarification, please refer to your Town Hall Agreement. Don't want to have to use that delete button. Okay? ;-)


    Thanks for your participation.


    Pocahontas
    Host
    Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards

  • pocahontaspocahontas Member Posts: 802
    A little off subject for this discussion, but here's my 2 cents:

    I've found people usually take me more seriously if I call ahead and make an appointment. If I want them to know I'm a serious buyer, I just tell them I am. If they ask about when I want to purchase, I let them know my decision will depend on the test drive and my impressions following. On the other hand, if I know I don't want to purchase right away, or I'm dropping in without an appointment, I avoid busy hours... like Sat/Sun afternoons.

    Following the test drive, if I don't feel like making the purchase immdediately, I politely thank the sales clerk for his time and let him know I need time to think over things by myself, and I'll get back to him with my offer... once I've made a decision. Bottom line: if you don't feel like you're getting the respect you need, you should ask to speak to the sales manager, and from there ask him/her to find you another sales clerk. Hope this is helpful.

    Btw, for more advice on this subject, people may want to read through the messages in this Women's Auto Center discussion: Approaching the Salesman. Good luck. ;-)

    Pocahontas
    Host
    Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
  • phoenixmp5phoenixmp5 Member Posts: 60
    I've told dealers up front, that I have several vehicles in mind and intended on driving all of them before purchasing one. I've also told them I was shopping for service and a poor attitude or bad service would surely send me down the road to another dealer. I've agreed to purchase the car if I liked it and felt comfortable with them as a dealer, but ONLY after I've test driven the competition.

    I have had dealers refuse to allow me a test drive and as I promised, I've never returned to their establishment. There is way too much competition between dealers, for anyone to have to put up with that GARBAGE.

    You CAN be in control of the sale! Know everything about the car you're looking at. Read the news groups and reviews, know your bottom-line price. Edmunds TMV is a great source, giving the buyer a fair price and the dealer enough profit to make them happy.

    There was no TMV when I purchased my car, however, I looked up the TMV on the Protege ES, Civic EX, Corrola LE and averaged the percentage of reduction from MSRP. I presented that at the time of negotiation and had no problem getting the price.

    Go in with papers... lots and lots of papers. Print up payment estimates based on every possible interest rate and price you may be negotiating (don't forget Tax, License, Registration and any accessory (excluding warranty... this is done in financing) and if the dealer starts playing the numbers game, pull out your sheet with the appropriate break-down. Give them no place to go and you'll walk out with a great deal and a satisfied feeling.

    Hope this helps
  • butler11butler11 Member Posts: 12
    Went to the dealer today to see the car.I will be able to pick it up Friday.Is there any other Yellow P5 owners in Ontario?Can anyone recommend a double din MP3 player for the car ,if there is any out there! :)
  • iamziamz Member Posts: 542
    Can't help you with the MP3 player, but congrats on the Yellow P5. It's my color too.

    Zoom Zoom! ;)

    -Terry
  • kcying1kcying1 Member Posts: 10
  • kcying1kcying1 Member Posts: 10
    I am selling a Double Din Kenwood CD and MD deck

    If you interest
    ICQ me
    HERE is my ICQ : 2677465
    I will send me some pictures

    it is a japanese model Kenwood 710MD deck can play CD and MD
    My brother bought that to me and it doesnt fit my CAR becoz my car is using 1.5din but not double din

    I will sell it for $300 US
    $450 CA
    Very reasonable PRICE
    IF YOU interest
  • deejayspinzdeejayspinz Member Posts: 20
    Order my Silver P5 5sp/moon/ac on July 2. Was given vague info by my dealer as to delivery time. They think somewhere around 2nd week of Aug. They claim that the cars are enroute somewhere in the Pacific. No Vin has been assigned... Anyone that has already been through this that can tell me what a realistic wait time is knowing that the cars are on their way?

    Thx,

    Dave
  • smostormsmostorm Member Posts: 11
    i ordered the same car the last week of june. i have a vin #, and was told sometime in august for delivery. numerous other peeps that ordered silver 5sp w/moonroof, etc. have arrival dates from their dealers during the first week of august. however, most of us (if not all) are on the east coast with that delivery time, so if you are on the west coast you should be getting it earlier, but then again you and i ordered a few weeks after most...eerrrhh, who knows. i'd keep calling the dealer for updates and a vin #. good luck.
  • hd274hd274 Member Posts: 1
    After many years of poor to bad dealer experiecences, I finally met with a good dealer in West Palm Beach Fl. City Place Mazda met the Edmunds trade in price on my trade, and beat the TMV for a 2002 Silver PR5 W/auto by $ 320.00. They are well stocked, and know the car. Ask for Alex, and enjoy yourself, no pressure, they even offer 1.9 financing.
  • draekdraek Member Posts: 3
    I ordered my silver/5spd/AC/moonroof Protege5 the last week of June and it's scheduled to arrive during the 2nd week of August. Long wait, but it'll be worth it. The local dealer here in Alberta only had automatics or red 5spds in stock which I didn't want. Wasn't able to get anything off the price from him. Getting grad rebate though, so that is good. Should have VIN# next week.
  • lolmanlolman Member Posts: 10
    Dave....the VIN number has definately been assigned if the car is midway across the pacific...the VIN number of the car is assigned when it begins production. Either the dealer is lying to you, or he is too stupid to figure what the VIN number is. If I was you I'd ask to speak to the sales manager at the dealership andask him the same question. If that doesn't work I would call Mazda North America at 8002225500

    hope that helps
  • elec3elec3 Member Posts: 160
    Hey all, I've finally decided to do something about the mediocre sound in my silver P5, I bought an 8" 100 watt powered Bazooka subwoofer to put in the hatch. I'm reasonably good with electronics and am installing this myself but I'm having a bit of difficulty with the wiring.

    Power and ground are no problem but in order to get the sub a signal to amplify, you need to tap the signal and ground wires from both rear speakers. I've figured out how to remove the wiring harness from the rear doors but there seems to be about 8 wires of varying colors in there - not the one red and one black I was hoping for. Can anybody who has replaced the factory speakers help me out on which wires are which? Short of that, can I remove the plastic panel covering the lower half of the rear door (and rear speakers) to see which wires are physically run into those speakers without damaging the panel? Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.
  • phoenixmp5phoenixmp5 Member Posts: 60
    The door panel comes off in one piece. The trickiest thing about the rear door panels are the armrests. To remove them, insert a flat screwdriver into the rectangular slot under the armrest to release the clip. You'll have to pry off the armrest using a fair amount of force and an up and down motion. The armrest are attached by the metal clip you release earlier and two prong like PVC clips pointing toward the rear of the door. Pulling back with the up and down motion in the middle of the handle will bow it out enough to release the armrest. Before I got frustrated enough to go to the dealer for help, I thought prying on the armrest any harder would surely break it off... so don't be shy about laying into it a little.

    I can't remember which color went to the speakers. I had to use a 9 Volt battery to determine which wires went to the positive and negative posts. Unfortunately, the "T" shaped factory plug is not marked and the wires colors are not of any help.

    If I remember correctly, the TOP of the "T" is positive.

    Good Luck.
  • deejayspinzdeejayspinz Member Posts: 20
    I called Mazda Canada this morning to get a better idea as to what it takes to get a car from China (not my words) to Ontario. The rep states that it takes roughly 3 weeks to ship and up to 2 weeks by rail to reach here. The VIN number is assigned at some point during shipping. I asked how I could get a better estimate for delivery. The rep said that once a VIN has been assigned then I could call Mazda to get a better idea. Here is the number - 416-609-9909 (local to the Greater Toronto Area). So by the looks of this, those of us waiting w/out a VIN may be driving our old cars for a while...

    Question - I will have to get rid of my old car soon due to an agreement with my buyer. I am looking for opionions from others regarding the dealer providing a car to use while waiting. My dealer has told me that he has a car that I can use. He has not clarified if they will charge a rental fee. What are others thoughts? I ordered the car on July 2 and was told that I **should** have the car by the end of this month. Dont see that happening. Should I expect that the dealer cover the cost of my rental car (they will provide the car from one of their owned rental places) until my P5 arrives? Ideas / Suggestions?

    Dave
  • bigfish2178bigfish2178 Member Posts: 14
    Does anyone know what the round plastic cover with the two large wire looms behind the rear bumper is for? I was hoping to use the spare tire well for a sub but the well has a bulge in it that matches the size of the cover under the car.

    I just picked up my blue,5spd,roof,abs,side impact air bags and love the car. I have not noticed the wind noise from the sunroof, in fact the sunroof on my Jetta makes more noise and it has a sunroof deflector. I must admit the factory sound system is just plain pathetic. I've read in this forum that people have had good luck just replacing the speakers so I'll be trying that first. I know the front speakers are 5x7 but does anyone know if 6x8 will fit (I am having a hard time finding 5x7)I've been averaging 31mpg which seems about right for this car.
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