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Mazda Protege5
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Comments
Right Half of Pro5
Left Half of Pro5
Unfortunately, Mazda posts their graphics in sections, so you can only see half of the car at once. You can see the recessed black rain gutters which start at the windshield. Now look at the mounting racks. They start on either side of the moonroof and are considerably wider and taller than the black rain gutters. All U.S. Pro5's come with those permanently installed and the crossmember attach to these. Does your Canadian Pro5 have those?
However, those crash test ratings were on the 2001 Elantra GLS, not the 2001.5 Elantra GT, which came out many months later. Structural integrity in these same tests, however, showed that the Elantra GLS was as good as any. And for the 5mph bumper damage test, the 2001 Elantra showed $0 in damage, front and rear, a rare feat. The Elantra GT also includes STANDARD side impact air bags.
All-in-all, money was a VERY big issue for me, and I saved over $3,500 on my Elantra GT - the Mazda dealers here were selling the P5s above MSRP as they are selling fast. I must see the two P5 commercials every day on every network channel for a couple of months now.
Good luck with your P5s everyone, but those who are low on cash should really consider the Elantra GT. Smooth car.
tcinsf: What kind of deal you're going to get is going to depend on your local market, A LOT. We had massive flooding down here recently and it's still pretty much a sellers market. Combined with the short supply, it's rough. I've talked to three dealers here and they all basically said "MSRP or walk". Most of them really _can't_ keep the cars on their lots, particularly the 5-speed. I had to go to three dealers to even find a 5-speed to test drive, and that was the last 5-speed on the lot. I think I could haggle that dealer down on an automatic, but I don't want an automatic. So YMMV.
I have a silver Pro5 with moonroof & abs. I kept the roof rack off and have ordered a wind deflector for it. This weekend is the big test, I'm driving to Nashville and back! See ya around.
PS - Does anyone have experience with installing the 6-disc in-dash changer?
This is actually my family's 6th Mazda (we've had just about one of everything and still own 4) purchased from the same dealer so the service we got was excellent. I came to the lot to look at Protege ES models as well as the Hyundai Elantra and Sonata and while wandering around said "Hey...what the heck is that strange wagon looking thing?" It was a loaded black P5, of course it sold by the time I decided to buy one but the dealer got a few more in. I ended up choosing a silver one that had everything I wanted but the moonroof so the dealer had one put in for ~US$700 or so that IMO is nicer than the factory one (hell, it closes itself when you shut the car off). The dealer also offered to put in anything else (leather, disc changer, etc.) but I declined. I got the special financing and my payment is around US$365 a month for 60 months with nothing down - not too bad.
I find this car handles very nicely, my previous vehicle being a Mazda B2300 pickup which was a comparative chore to drive. The car corners very flat and feels stable in most all situations. Room is very good, especially headroom and also legroom in the back seat. This would make a great college roadtrip car. The hatch has a nice low lift-in height and space is decent but not overwhelming. It'll be interesting when I make my 1500 mile journey back to school in a month, but I think I'll manage.
There are a few things I don't like about my P5 but most are minor and have already been pointed out here. One is the door lock. Cars with standard power locks should not have a button lock in the window frame. I don't use it. If my window is open and I put my arm on the frame, it's also on the button. Ouch. The armrest is too low and too small to be used as an armrest or for meaningful storage. Your best bet is change, a cell phone, or as many CDs in slimline jewel cases as you can cram in there. I don't like the location of the (shallow) cupholders, they should perhaps be further back. As everyone else has mentioned, the stereo is somewhat weak. It seems to be good for electronic music that isn't very bass heavy or guitar-centric rock like Metallica but not much else. I think a pair of 10" subs in the hatch would help add some body to the sound but it just doesn't have the clarity and power that says "hi, I'm a high end car stereo". This is on my list of things to fix/replace as soon as I have some money. My last and perhaps biggest gripe is, oddly enough, performance. This is NOT a sports car. It's a very good and fun to drive functional vehicle. It's quick. It's not fast. This car is wonderful for getting around town and not bad on the highway either but it won't make your blood boil (unless perhaps you were previously driving an oh-so-anemic B2300 pickup). That's also on my list of things to do once I have some money. I think this car might begin to impress with a chip and/or turbo but I don't know how feasible either really is. I would imagine putting a turbo or twin turbos on a large 4 like the Protege5 has would give some pretty nice performance but I also have an automatic and the tranny might not be able to handle the extra power.
All told, this is one of those rare cars that looks good, is very functional, and is still fun to drive. It's not perfect but it is quite solid and will turn heads. I just hope the Focus based Proteges come soon so we can all enjoy a somewhat limited circulation vehicle...at least until I can afford that Porsche Boxster S
My wife and I have been in the market for a new car - preferably a station wagon or hatchback for the extra space. I've been following the Protoge5 discussions and have test driven the Pro5 several times. I really liked the car, and felt the room was fairly generous given the size and MPG that this car gets.
My wife, however, had a different take. She didn't like the looks of the car at all, and said she felt particularly cramped when she sat in the back seat. She much preferred the Protoge sedan but wasn't crazy about that either. One of our motivations for getting a new car was to have more space than my '93 Saturn SL2 currently affords (which the Pro does, but not a lot more), and so glumly I had to cross the Pro off our list.
Despite the fact that we did not end up buying a Mazda (this time around), I would highly recommend Milford Mazda on Boston Post Road (915 Boston Post Road, Milford CT). I was dealing with a salesman named Brian Lown who was polite, helpful, and willing to negotiate.
They had several Pro5s on the lot, last time I was there (black,red,and silver if I remember correctly). They also indicated that they were willing to accept the S-Plan on the Pro5.
If you're in the CT area they are worth checking out.
--Paul
p.s. We ended up going with a Subaru Outback Wagon (not the Sport) - MUCH bigger, more powerful, but also less fuel efficient (rated 22/27). I hope that the legendary Subaru reliability turns out to be true.
Stephen
1) the break-in period
2) after the break-in period
3) best fuel economy
4) best acceleration?
Thanks
2) after the break-in period: 3500-4500rpm, depending on the trafic, road condition, engine temperature, etc... Better wait until the engine warm up correcly before pushing hard the accelerator.
3) for the best fuel economy, shifting is one thing, but having a light right foot is also important. Accelerate as smooth as you can, and shift around 3000rpm. Also anticipate stopping. If you see a red light ahead, no need to keep the car at high speed and break at the last moment. Modern car don't need to be warm up, just drive right the way when you start it, however treat it gently for the first few miles.
4) Best acceleration: I usualy do not spend a lot of time on
the first gear on the flat road. For others gears, I shift the
gear at 5500-6000rpm.
Bruno
Thanks!
Import
RSX or P5 that is the question
Love the car!!
BTW, I paid $800 for two-tone leather seats, and the car looks sharp.
-Terry
-Mark
Has anyone seen the cargo mat or plastic liner? What do they look like? How much? Any pics online?
Thanks,
Loving owner of a Blue P5 Auto
timbone11
I was taking off the roof rack (too much noise) when I noticed that unlike the rear cross-bar, the front bar is NOT stamped "L" or "R" and can be mounted with the grooves pointing forward or back. I changed the bar around to the more logical and aerodynamic position,(grooves pointing to the rear) and greatly reduced the amount of noise it produced.
My vehicle is equipped with the moon roof defector and this change reduced my wind noise by almost 50% and eliminated the whistle. I no longer hear wind noise while driving on the freeway with the moon roof closed and the noise is tolerable when open.
The rear cross-bar can only be mounted with the groove pointing forward, so you can't change it around. It also, doesn't produce the noise level of the front either.
Also, for those who have asked about removing the cross-bars; Unscrew the plastic caps and lift the upper part of the cap up and toward you. There are two metal clips, one on each side which keep the caps sandwiched together. Also, be sure to use a six sided socket while turning the cross-bar bolts as they are thread locked and may strip with 12 sided sockets.
Ryan
Although I managed to convince them to let me test drive a Protege 5 and after I told him I'm going over to Wolfe Mazda to buy the P5 because I don't like your attitude.He was pissed!
Anyways, went to 4 Mazda dealerships.
Richmond Mazda: They didn't look like they had one available at the time to test-drive
Wolfe Mazda/Subaru Surrey: The guy (Michael) was great. Didn't give me any trouble when I asked for a test drive. Was pretty helpful, though seemed to not know as much about the car. Here's the bad part. Test drive car ran out of gas!!! in 5 mins. Yes! No Joke! At least now I know he owes me another test drive for that ambarrasing situation. Will probably head back there again.
Mazda on Main & 12th(Regency?): Some european shmuck gave me real attitude about if I were to test drive one, i gotta be serious about buying it. He had the impression like i was just some kid out test driving cars for the heck of it. Never coming back here
Summit Mazda: Was able to convince the salesperson (Danny) to test-drive one, however, the idiot wouldn't even let me drive it out on Hastings fearing it would get hit by a truck. Claims the car is already sold and the guy's coming to get it soon. Whatever. I at least got to drive a 5-speed this time and seems to shift well enough for my taste. Told the guy I would need to think about my financing options first, then he complained that I had tricked him into getting a test-drive and not buying it if I liked it.
This is the first time I'm buying a new car. Does anyone have pointers as to how to approach salespeople to get test-drives and make it appear that you're serious about buying the car, but of course not buy it immediately? What routine do you guys use?
Any other recommended Mazda dealers in the lower mainland?
BTW, phasor & the_rock73, if you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for your car?
You can e-mail me: gt_one99@hotmail.com
Thanks for your participation.
Pocahontas
Host
Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
I've found people usually take me more seriously if I call ahead and make an appointment. If I want them to know I'm a serious buyer, I just tell them I am. If they ask about when I want to purchase, I let them know my decision will depend on the test drive and my impressions following. On the other hand, if I know I don't want to purchase right away, or I'm dropping in without an appointment, I avoid busy hours... like Sat/Sun afternoons.
Following the test drive, if I don't feel like making the purchase immdediately, I politely thank the sales clerk for his time and let him know I need time to think over things by myself, and I'll get back to him with my offer... once I've made a decision. Bottom line: if you don't feel like you're getting the respect you need, you should ask to speak to the sales manager, and from there ask him/her to find you another sales clerk. Hope this is helpful.
Btw, for more advice on this subject, people may want to read through the messages in this Women's Auto Center discussion: Approaching the Salesman. Good luck. ;-)
Pocahontas
Host
Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
I have had dealers refuse to allow me a test drive and as I promised, I've never returned to their establishment. There is way too much competition between dealers, for anyone to have to put up with that GARBAGE.
You CAN be in control of the sale! Know everything about the car you're looking at. Read the news groups and reviews, know your bottom-line price. Edmunds TMV is a great source, giving the buyer a fair price and the dealer enough profit to make them happy.
There was no TMV when I purchased my car, however, I looked up the TMV on the Protege ES, Civic EX, Corrola LE and averaged the percentage of reduction from MSRP. I presented that at the time of negotiation and had no problem getting the price.
Go in with papers... lots and lots of papers. Print up payment estimates based on every possible interest rate and price you may be negotiating (don't forget Tax, License, Registration and any accessory (excluding warranty... this is done in financing) and if the dealer starts playing the numbers game, pull out your sheet with the appropriate break-down. Give them no place to go and you'll walk out with a great deal and a satisfied feeling.
Hope this helps
Zoom Zoom!
-Terry
If you interest
ICQ me
HERE is my ICQ : 2677465
I will send me some pictures
it is a japanese model Kenwood 710MD deck can play CD and MD
My brother bought that to me and it doesnt fit my CAR becoz my car is using 1.5din but not double din
I will sell it for $300 US
$450 CA
Very reasonable PRICE
IF YOU interest
Thx,
Dave
hope that helps
Power and ground are no problem but in order to get the sub a signal to amplify, you need to tap the signal and ground wires from both rear speakers. I've figured out how to remove the wiring harness from the rear doors but there seems to be about 8 wires of varying colors in there - not the one red and one black I was hoping for. Can anybody who has replaced the factory speakers help me out on which wires are which? Short of that, can I remove the plastic panel covering the lower half of the rear door (and rear speakers) to see which wires are physically run into those speakers without damaging the panel? Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.
I can't remember which color went to the speakers. I had to use a 9 Volt battery to determine which wires went to the positive and negative posts. Unfortunately, the "T" shaped factory plug is not marked and the wires colors are not of any help.
If I remember correctly, the TOP of the "T" is positive.
Good Luck.
Question - I will have to get rid of my old car soon due to an agreement with my buyer. I am looking for opionions from others regarding the dealer providing a car to use while waiting. My dealer has told me that he has a car that I can use. He has not clarified if they will charge a rental fee. What are others thoughts? I ordered the car on July 2 and was told that I **should** have the car by the end of this month. Dont see that happening. Should I expect that the dealer cover the cost of my rental car (they will provide the car from one of their owned rental places) until my P5 arrives? Ideas / Suggestions?
Dave
I just picked up my blue,5spd,roof,abs,side impact air bags and love the car. I have not noticed the wind noise from the sunroof, in fact the sunroof on my Jetta makes more noise and it has a sunroof deflector. I must admit the factory sound system is just plain pathetic. I've read in this forum that people have had good luck just replacing the speakers so I'll be trying that first. I know the front speakers are 5x7 but does anyone know if 6x8 will fit (I am having a hard time finding 5x7)I've been averaging 31mpg which seems about right for this car.