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Comments
I think heavier duty and different valving than the standard Durango box. However, do bear in mind that when you read a post about how someone replaced their original box with a Durango one and it gave a fantastic improvement, that's usually because the original box was knackered and an OE replacement would probably have given the same result.
You often see similar posts relating to spark plugs, air filters, brake pads etc. Replace a worn out original with almost anything new and you'll see the same result.
In regard to short term value I was just comparing it in price and anticipated longevity to the PSC unit.
I plan to keep the H1 as long as the Jeep, i.e. until I'm too feeble to maintain and drive it any more. :sick:
Here's a pic after playing in some Florida mud.
Looks like fun.
I went and looked at my linkages which I KNEW to be good, but checked anyway. I found something. My driver side tie rod end was WAY loose. Cotter pin was still there, so I'm thinking I never tightened it down completely. D'OH!!!
I tightened it down well, repinned it and am currently driving it. In the process I re-centered the steering wheel too. Had a fellow Jeep owner drive it and get his impressions (without me saying anything - just asked opinion of steering), and he said it drives just like his. I think I'll hold off on my steering box replacement and keep kicking myself for not checking the links sooner.
-Paul
Looks like fun.
Oh it is, though not so much the next day when you have to clean it.
I went and looked at my linkages which I KNEW to be good, but checked anyway. I found something. My driver side tie rod end was WAY loose. Cotter pin was still there, so I'm thinking I never tightened it down completely.............................I think I'll hold off on my steering box replacement and keep kicking myself for not checking the links sooner.
Well, rather than kick yourself maybe you need to re-evaluate the way you check the steering joints.
By far the easiest is to have a helper smoothly rotate the steering wheel half a turn from side to side (with the engine running, parking brake on, and the vehicle on a hard surface), while you lay at the front and study each joint through the full range of movement. Any wear or loosness will be very evident.
Also, you might want to check to see if you've over adjusted the steering box in your previous effort to eliminate the play that turned out to be the loose joint.
Your method for checking linkages is exactly how I did it this weekend to find the problem. I THOUGHT I did that before, but apparently I missed something. Believe me, a LONG, DETAILED mental note was made.
The adjustments I made on the steering box were done before I put the new tie rod on. It returns to center just like it should and there is no binding in the steering, so while the gears ARE wearing, the box seems to feel about right at this time. If it starts getting sloppy again, a steering linkage check will again occur, along with tightening any loose ones, recheck, then likely a new box.
-Paul
I have 94000 original miles, use good oil, all gets change on regular basis, carries about 44 lbs pressure at idle, no miss, no shake just sounds like a diesel engine..
Good description of a sticking cam follower(s).
Diesel Jeep Wrangler Coming in 4th Quarter 2010 (Straightline)
It all depends on which engine they use. Certainly the potential is there, but look how wrong they got it with the Liberty
The Liberty CRD ... well that was a whole can of worms it sounds like.
-Paul
The Jeep Engineers and Italians, I am sure are having discussions but how much power does marketing have. Hopefully, management with greasy fingernails experience will give us our last hurrah before that 4wd electric wrangler (software permitting).
What can they do to/for the wrangler. The wrangler can replace the old cherokee and the commander and be the new wrangler. For instance (not an engineer), but what if a wrangler had a hemi, automatic, 3.21 gears, a metal top (cheaper and lighter than the composite?) and nice frame mounted flat aluminum steps like on our h3, and quality front end adjustable parts, would it sell - I think so.
Now the real wrangler, portal axles, larger tires, canvas top/freedom top option.... How much after market made standard or as an option - don't know - federal law and steel bumpers with winches etc.
I believe in the past $10k profit per model was a given for grand cherokees, various makes of suv's pickups etc. Are sales volume and respect really gained when a few pennies are saved in parts, when buyers opt for the base model, throw out the axles and suspension, and rebuild on the frame.
In today's mail I received a thank you letter and a sticker (can't you guess what it said from my title and opening line). I am not a mudder. I am not a rockcrawler. Three previous Chrysler products in my life were cheap parts cheap vehicles and cheap. The wrangler purchase was to be a base model then give thousands to ScreaminLizard to make it a real fourby. Better_half loved the loaded rubicon and zero percent interest, get it now versus loan and thousands to upgrade.
Well, if we get serious that money will still need to be spent. You know the drill, suspension, axles, and etc. Smarter wrangler owners than me will ignore and let this i junk nonsense pass and hope the next owner of the wrangler does right to those enterprising Americans who designed the first general purpose vehicle seventy years ago.
They turned Dodge Truck into Ram trucks. If memory serves me right, old heavy duty dodge trucks had respect through the fifties and maybe early sixties. What is the plan for the wrangler, I think I am getting the message.
Spent time in the holiday blizzard making tracks thru unplowed TX and Ok back roads in the h3 and was careful to take it easy with the sfa. Light snow for OKC was a gross missed forecast. (Toyo AT's were great, first choice for the rubicon).
Anyhow, only mods are rock hard canister armor, lod rocker/step the next mod a shrockworks or lod bumper with winch. Can't think of an alternative, for now, for the wrangler except perhaps the raptor. Glad we have the jk frame and screamlinlizard if the jk is the last real jeep and all the press about the anniversary edition and 2011 new model is more advertising. No don't want a wrangler with a diesel or a new technology di motor.
And getting back to the title, I hope you sense my extreme irritation.
Their recent magazine cover showing M. Douglas has on the inside front cover an ad with a matronly lady with beads and Yes i live i ride etc
I have a friend with a JK and just put bumpers on it - in fact - his was the first prototype.
-Paul
Thanks for the response and picture. Always a bumper thread on forums. Have considered the mesh grill for the seven slots because in the past got caught in pea size hail instantly while doing interstate speed in one of our conversion vans. The hail bent up the a/c fins and thought about a comb but never straightened them. Believe I remember a gentleman from Missouri putting a screen on his crd for the bug season.
The winch guard, with cutouts for more lights?, protrudes into the cooling area. Seems some are adding an additional tranny cooler to their jk's. Probably going mid-width to keep the factory lights. But still considering any aero benefits by the factory bumper extending in front of the tires. I'm sure they are designed that way at least for federal requirements. Also everyone knows about ground effects and why that stupid plastic shield is not so stupid.
I've read your posts but never had anything to add. Thought calling the h3 front sfa vs ifs would elicit something. Again, had two sentences running in my one little brain cell and it came out a mixture.
The reason for the posts was what I thought a stupid ad campaign by Fiat? A wrangler is the jeep, although Petersen's Ultimate Adventure commended their Commander(s) for two years with no problems just gas mileage [torque converter and/or silly 545 tranny (who needs two second gears) and programming?] Anyway as another forum poster said, if it gets more jks bought there will be more used ones and parts for us.
We love our 4x4's. They each have their weaknesses. Weaknesses that each manufacturer could've prevented by spending a few more dollars. Dollars they wouldn't have to spend on marketing hype or rebates. H3 has the real front axle issue (questionable heads etc) but it was great to have that high front bumper and aluminum skid plow down the snow and ice this Christmas. The Rubicon, like the mag (St. Antoine?)said is the out of the box a great 4x4. Don't think I'll go 35's or higher and sleeve the axle.
Again, the post tried to show that as an older person, I still like body on frame and a drivetrain you can trust to get you there. I dislike i ride etc attached to a wrangler. Instead of changing Dodge to Ram, maybe there should be wrangler dealerships where the employees drive them or at least have one mechanic who drives them.
Dave
Other than that, they've pretty much sucked. Jeep's best promotions are the Camp Jeep events and Jamborees.
Those holes in the winch guard are for lights that haven't been installed yet. Good location for offroading. My friend's Jeep also has the Warn Powerplant winch (A TALL winch), but that bumper has a recessed design so not nearly as much shows in front of the radiator. He's wheeled in the Colorado mountains with NO issues so far.
A bug/hail screen wouldn't be bad, but I've never considered/worried about it. Something to consider living here in the South.
Those weaknesses of course cost $$ to do, but when you factor each of those costs across a vehicle line, the cost of implementing would drive the price of a Wrangler up higher than most would be willing to pay. A 4dr JK unlimited Rubicon is WAY more than I'd pay for what I'd use for offroading. The beauty of it is that the weaknesses ARE easily addressed by the aftermarket. It enables MORE jobs and more individuality with how Jeeps are modified to our taste. I guarantee my Jeep is unique among Jeeps. Some of it because of what I've built and part of what I've bought. As for aerodynamics, we're talking about a WRANGLER here - a brick on wheels. That bumper/grille guard isn't doing anything to help or hurt it, other than add weight.
-Paul
The money factor is really only the additional amount to upgrade over the current stock cost. Yes, the plan was to buy a X with the S package then replace axles, track bars, arms etc. with aftermarket parts. Believe the discount on rubicons was about $7500 ( $5000 discount and $2500 loan subvention to get down to zero percent) that's a lot that could've provided an upgrade and more profit to Jeep. But I agree with you buy cheap and buy the aftermarket you want. However, does insurance pay for your upgrades and return you to where you were or only what you bought/insured originally?
Q:What is the difference between an X and a unibody four wheel drive wagon/suv etc other than the removable top.
A:The ability to upgrade from a long list of aftermarket support.
Not sure on the insurance. The way I figure it - if I destroy the Jeep, I'm taking off parts that I can salvage or sell that the insurance won't pay me back for. A lot will depend on how it is damaged though.
-Paul
Marc
I'm not sure, but I've had that same sized spare on my tailgate mount for years now with no problem. Is the wheel tight on the mount?
In regard to bumper hitches, I think they're mostly rated for offroad use only for legal reasons.
I have the Olympic shown below and I've used it to tow 3Klbs+ for many years.
I'd venture to suggest that it's even stronger than a regular towbar and it includes connection points for safety chains.
Bumper Link
Olympic also make a carrier that bolts to that particular bumper.
Tire Carrier Link
I extended mine by getting longer bolts with the same thread count and adding some washers between the bumpstop and the tailgate, but you could also cut down one of the bumpstops and use that instead.
-Paul
Thanks,
After checking the headlight ground is good you should check the the fuse for the power feed to the headlight switch; it's a 30 amp fuse located in the #10 position in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) under the hood. Substitute another fuse, even if it looks good.
If it's not the fuse or ground it'll be a break or bad connection in the circuit, or a bad headlight switch, but while quite possible, those two are less likely.
Good luck.
just test-drove an '05 2-door Jeep Wrangler X. Hard top, (plastic-feel), 6gear, seems lifted, but how would I know and the salesman didn"t - as when I turned around sharply in a small driveway, the wheels made a slight noise on the bumpers.
I'm cassette generation, and this rig has a radio display I'd love to disable - as it is distracting.
but the design so reminds me of my father's WWII photos - so good looking.
would have to get used to the feeling my left arm is pinned to my side when I drive, and the windshield is way narrower than my great trucky front/side/rear
visibility....the wipers look flimsy...
but there's something about this Jeep. I keep trying to like cars with better mileage and safety etc. but, thus far no can do. Cusp-of-elderville with teen tastes.
any comments? thanks in advance.
oh yeah, and they want $19,779.60 with tax.
To get a feel for pricing go to eBay and look at the prices achieved on completed auctions. Asking prices are irrelevant.
For reference, a brand new 2010 2dr Wrangler starts at $21,915 MSRP, which you can expect to be discounted once you're seriously ready to buy.
You can't do much about the seating position or size of the windshield, but the wipers are efficient and cope well with the heaviest Florida monsoons and the radio is easily changed.
I bought my Wrangler new in '99, it's one of my two daily drivers and is approaching 100K miles. I fully anticipate another 100K if I'm fortunate enough to live that long (I'm probably a good bit older than you are now).
For now LOD and Shrockworks keeps coming up in my mind. ScreaminLizard is even busier now that their hemi conversion for a customer was showcased in Petersen's. So I'll probably do the bumper upgrade myself and want it right and installed right the first time. There is another shop in town Lunatic Customs but it is more satisfying to me to look at what I did hopefully without a lot of dang why didn't I's in retrospect. Thanks again for the aluminum idea. The H3 uses aluminum as well as the Lost founder's crd asfir plates.
Sad to say but couldn't make the inaugural TX JK Jamboree in Arkansas.
12k + miles so far and still enjoy the rubicon and tired from waving.
We got to pre-run some trails yesterday for the Cullman, AL Jamboree. It's gonna be a BLAST!!!!! Jeep needs a bit of a bath now - inside AND out.
-Paul
There's a couple articles that say they'll first go in the Grand Cherokee. But I haven't seen anything about a Wrangler.
A dealer told me they haven't heard anything yet.
Anyone heard anything?
On a side note for those who go to the mall and miss out on getting to the woods, replaced the falling out domed plastic t nuts holding up the front fender liners with metric cross shaped plastic handles with inbedded 6m (metric nuts) from Ace hardware. Now only the fender liner at the pinch weld, where the rubi rail used to be is loose. One jeeper was told by his dealer the fenders were designed to flop.
Got some no ethanol gas kept rpms around 2k and saw the mpg's climb and climb. Maybe now sitting at 15k on the odometer also helped but back on alcohol see the mileage drop and drop. 89 octane last summer dropped to 87 for a month but thinking 89 again if that ethanol won't go away. Knock sensors work before my ears kick in so I'll never know, without aftermarket purchase, the timing degrees.
Ed Wallace has a very good article this Sunday's Ft Worth Star Telegram and can also be found on his website insideautomotive. What I've been saying for decades why do politicians think of themselves money and power first instead of do the right thing for all people. Thanks again Ed.
If your control arm bushings are worn, there will be play in the axle.
If your tie rods or mounting points are worn, there will be play in the axle.
If your steering assembly has looseness/play in joints, steering will be loose and could cause play in the suspension.
You could jack up each side of the jeep and see if you can turn the wheels by hand.
Don't necessarily trust the dealer for inspecting this.
What is your suspension setup? Stock? lifted? Tire Size?
Is your tie rod bent at all? When was it aligned last?
-Paul
Was grinding a bit going into/out of 2nd. Mechanic replaced clutch & main seal yesterday. Drove it this evening & still grinding also makes a whirring noise going into 2nd/3rd and now the stick shift has a lot of play when I'm in 3rd&4th. Noticed on your site that troubleshooting for similar issues should start with transmission fluid check, this was not done. Also, transmission fluid was not changed when clutch was replaced, is this normal?
FYI -I used this shop for years but my trusted mechanic no longer works there & I feel very in the dark so any advice would be great.
I also seem to have excessive tire wear & a shake at higher speeds that they can't figure out. The new mechanic asked where I had gotten the tires & lift done (it was there! ). I see a post for death wobble, should I follow the same path?
First thing I would do is change the fluids in your differentials and in your transmission, especially if you don't recall ever having done it.
As for your moving stick, you MAY have a transmission mount lose or disconnected from your replacement. Look at the skid plate under the Jeep between the doors. You should see 4 nuts holding the transmission in place. If there are no bolts, that may explain the problem (they didn't reattach it perhaps).
If you have issues that were NOT present when you dropped it off, take it back to them and let them know exactly when they started and give them a chance to make it right.
Excessive tire wear may be due to bad alignment. Was an alignment done after the lift? It NEEDS to be done, along with recentering the steering wheel.
You can do this yourself with a couple of wrenches and a tape measure. Check out www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html.
You'll know death wobble when you get it - it is THAT violent of a shaking. Tire/suspension shimmy and transmission vibes are very different.
-Paul
Took it back to the shop just now feeling much more informed.
advised no motor mount lift done because a body lift was not done only a suspension lift. alignment was done after the lift, will check to see if it needs to be re-aligned (thanks for the 4x4xplor hook up!)
They had not checked/changed the fluids mentioned at all, saying this need not be done until it hits 90k unless it is used offroad (.they will be checking them today.
checked this a.m. & the bolts are there in the skidplate. They told me slop in the gears was normal for a manual. I politely disagreed, advised there was no slop b4 the clutch was changed out. we'll see where that goes.
of course I would love 2 keep using the same shop as it is convenient to home & they are Jeep lovers 2. I had gotten comfy with my fave mechanic & this shook my confidence a little but am hoping for the best.
Either you or they have that backwards. With a body lift the propeller shaft angles don't change so no engine lift or transfer case drop is required.
However, a suspension lift does change those shaft angles, which then require correction to eliminate vibration.
perhaps your helping me solve the mystery shimmy...thanks for the education.
Now, I'm getting nervous about the possibility of having to find a new shop & I'm sure they are tired of me & my questions/challenges to their opinions.
Michele
While he may be able to handle a wrench and knows how to do things (maybe), he obviously doesn't see the big picture and understand why they have to be done.
I think I see a new shop in your future!
Relocating that shroud isn't complicated at all (drill some new holes in the plastic ABS shroud and you're set), but most just do both at the same time.
I have a manual and have no slop in my gear at all.
-Paul
Yes, that's how mine is set up and it eliminated the vibration that appeared after installing my OME suspension lift.
However, a 3" lift is pretty much the max that this will work for, and looking back over the posts it appears you have a 4" suspension lift of some sort which would normally require a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) together with a different rear propshaft.
Michelle,do you know which lift the shop originally installed and if anything else was done at the same time?
Going back to the original questions, if there wasn't any slop in the gear lever before the clutch change there shouldn't be any now.
It's likely the grinding when changing gear is due to wear in the brass synchromesh rings (synchros) which requires the transmission to be removed and opened to replace them.
However, although it won't fix the wear, you may get some relief by changing to a synthetic transmission fluid.
Although the standard fluid drain intervals are quite long, they should have drained yours as a diagnostic measure to look for excessive brass flakes in the oil.
Didn't spend Easter in Moab but just got Petersen's August issue.
Don't need 4.56 gears and 42's but a hemi, portals, and first rate parts will keep me very interested. What hummer could be and the raptor was built for.
Just saw the recall on another forum and the fix. Amazingly when I installed those handles in the fender liner, I saw the rubbing on the brake line. After pulling up the liner with those ace hardware handles, the rubbing ended. Paint gone from the passenger side line but no discernable metal abrasion. Trimmed the liner anyway. Good to go