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Jeep Wrangler

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  • babkababka Posts: 1
    moving from a '98 4door Tracker I'm only letting go because of creeping rust...

    just test-drove an '05 2-door Jeep Wrangler X. Hard top, (plastic-feel), 6gear, seems lifted, but how would I know and the salesman didn"t - as when I turned around sharply in a small driveway, the wheels made a slight noise on the bumpers.

    I'm cassette generation, and this rig has a radio display I'd love to disable - as it is distracting.

    but the design so reminds me of my father's WWII photos - so good looking.

    would have to get used to the feeling my left arm is pinned to my side when I drive, and the windshield is way narrower than my great trucky front/side/rear
    visibility....the wipers look flimsy...

    but there's something about this Jeep. I keep trying to like cars with better mileage and safety etc. but, thus far no can do. Cusp-of-elderville with teen tastes.

    any comments? thanks in advance.

    oh yeah, and they want $19,779.60 with tax.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I hope this wasn't a Jeep dealership; if so they need to lose a salesman who can't tell the difference between a regular and lifted Wrangler.
    To get a feel for pricing go to eBay and look at the prices achieved on completed auctions. Asking prices are irrelevant.
    For reference, a brand new 2010 2dr Wrangler starts at $21,915 MSRP, which you can expect to be discounted once you're seriously ready to buy.

    You can't do much about the seating position or size of the windshield, but the wipers are efficient and cope well with the heaviest Florida monsoons and the radio is easily changed.

    I bought my Wrangler new in '99, it's one of my two daily drivers and is approaching 100K miles. I fully anticipate another 100K if I'm fortunate enough to live that long (I'm probably a good bit older than you are now). ;)
  • When I bought my 07 Sahara 4 door three years ago the Auto door locks on the key would open the drivers door with one push and the rest with a second push, three years later when I push it once it opens all the door the first time. Is this something that anyone else is having problems with. Not really a problem so don't want to pay to have it fix but was just curious as to see if there is anything I can, really don't like the idea of all five doors unlocking at once when I am alone. Thanks for any ideas or suggestions.
  • Haven't replaced front bumper yet and remembered this post and the Aberle prototype post. Maybe stupid, but want to keep factory fogs, permanently mounted front license plate, winch guard not full grill guard or the rock crawlers from overkill engineering. The weight issue brought me back to your aberle aluminum post. Most rock crawlers and mall cruisers seem to go for the shorty. Kept going back to LOD full width but am concerned about possible hit to the end pushing it into the tire as well as it's weight.

    For now LOD and Shrockworks keeps coming up in my mind. ScreaminLizard is even busier now that their hemi conversion for a customer was showcased in Petersen's. So I'll probably do the bumper upgrade myself and want it right and installed right the first time. There is another shop in town Lunatic Customs but it is more satisfying to me to look at what I did hopefully without a lot of dang why didn't I's in retrospect. Thanks again for the aluminum idea. The H3 uses aluminum as well as the Lost founder's crd asfir plates.

    Sad to say but couldn't make the inaugural TX JK Jamboree in Arkansas.
    12k + miles so far and still enjoy the rubicon and tired from waving.
  • In case you still need an answer, from page 20 of our 2009 owners manual, Things to Know Before Starting Your Vehicle, describes this function of the remote. Step "5. ... or to reactivate this feature..." believe it means this programming is a toggle feature.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Savvy Offroad makes an aluminum bumper as well. Just an FYI.

    We got to pre-run some trails yesterday for the Cullman, AL Jamboree. It's gonna be a BLAST!!!!! Jeep needs a bit of a bath now - inside AND out. :)

    -Paul
  • akcijasakcijas Posts: 13
    Any news on whether the new Pentastar engine will be available in in the 2011 Wranglers ?

    There's a couple articles that say they'll first go in the Grand Cherokee. But I haven't seen anything about a Wrangler.

    A dealer told me they haven't heard anything yet.

    Anyone heard anything?
  • No and don't care. Be careful what you wish for. Know nothing about it but guess it is ohc, four valve with variable timing, and direct injection. No thanks prefer the minvan engine. Who's di motor is not destroying the oil and intake valves.

    On a side note for those who go to the mall and miss out on getting to the woods, replaced the falling out domed plastic t nuts holding up the front fender liners with metric cross shaped plastic handles with inbedded 6m (metric nuts) from Ace hardware. Now only the fender liner at the pinch weld, where the rubi rail used to be is loose. One jeeper was told by his dealer the fenders were designed to flop.

    Got some no ethanol gas kept rpms around 2k and saw the mpg's climb and climb. Maybe now sitting at 15k on the odometer also helped but back on alcohol see the mileage drop and drop. 89 octane last summer dropped to 87 for a month but thinking 89 again if that ethanol won't go away. Knock sensors work before my ears kick in so I'll never know, without aftermarket purchase, the timing degrees.

    Ed Wallace has a very good article this Sunday's Ft Worth Star Telegram and can also be found on his website insideautomotive. What I've been saying for decades why do politicians think of themselves money and power first instead of do the right thing for all people. Thanks again Ed.
  • dhoskinsdhoskins Posts: 1
    2006 Jeep wrangler. New tires. balanced 2X. Rotated 2X. New steering damper. Dealer inspected for a front end parts. Check good. wobble @ 50 to 55 MPH. only happens occasionally but when it does is scary. Any suggestions on what to check next? Thinking Wheel bearings. Steering box attachments? Open to any and all suggestions.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Did you check to see if your control arm bushings are all in good shape? Did you check your tie rod ends and the mounting holes? I came across a TJ with a SERIOUSLY wallowed out hole and his passenger side wheel had about 3/4" of play even with things tightened down.

    If your control arm bushings are worn, there will be play in the axle.
    If your tie rods or mounting points are worn, there will be play in the axle.
    If your steering assembly has looseness/play in joints, steering will be loose and could cause play in the suspension.

    You could jack up each side of the jeep and see if you can turn the wheels by hand.

    Don't necessarily trust the dealer for inspecting this.

    What is your suspension setup? Stock? lifted? Tire Size?

    Is your tie rod bent at all? When was it aligned last?

    -Paul
  • mishkalvmishkalv Posts: 3
    01 Wrangler 4.0L 5 speed manual, 4" lift, 33" tires.
    Was grinding a bit going into/out of 2nd. Mechanic replaced clutch & main seal yesterday. Drove it this evening & still grinding also makes a whirring noise going into 2nd/3rd and now the stick shift has a lot of play when I'm in 3rd&4th. Noticed on your site that troubleshooting for similar issues should start with transmission fluid check, this was not done. Also, transmission fluid was not changed when clutch was replaced, is this normal?

    FYI -I used this shop for years but my trusted mechanic no longer works there & I feel very in the dark so any advice would be great.

    I also seem to have excessive tire wear & a shake at higher speeds that they can't figure out. The new mechanic asked where I had gotten the tires & lift done (it was there! ). I see a post for death wobble, should I follow the same path?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Your vibrations are likely driveline vibes from the 4" lift. Do you have a motor mount lift at all? If you don't, that will 'tilt' the motor a bit to get the transmission more in line with the rear driveshaft and should reduce vibes.

    First thing I would do is change the fluids in your differentials and in your transmission, especially if you don't recall ever having done it.

    As for your moving stick, you MAY have a transmission mount lose or disconnected from your replacement. Look at the skid plate under the Jeep between the doors. You should see 4 nuts holding the transmission in place. If there are no bolts, that may explain the problem (they didn't reattach it perhaps).

    If you have issues that were NOT present when you dropped it off, take it back to them and let them know exactly when they started and give them a chance to make it right.

    Excessive tire wear may be due to bad alignment. Was an alignment done after the lift? It NEEDS to be done, along with recentering the steering wheel.

    You can do this yourself with a couple of wrenches and a tape measure. Check out www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html.

    You'll know death wobble when you get it - it is THAT violent of a shaking. Tire/suspension shimmy and transmission vibes are very different.

    -Paul
  • mishkalvmishkalv Posts: 3
    Thanks so much for the reply Paul!

    Took it back to the shop just now feeling much more informed.

    advised no motor mount lift done because a body lift was not done only a suspension lift. alignment was done after the lift, will check to see if it needs to be re-aligned (thanks for the 4x4xplor hook up!)

    They had not checked/changed the fluids mentioned at all, saying this need not be done until it hits 90k unless it is used offroad (.they will be checking them today.

    checked this a.m. & the bolts are there in the skidplate. They told me slop in the gears was normal for a manual. I politely disagreed, advised there was no slop b4 the clutch was changed out. we'll see where that goes.

    of course I would love 2 keep using the same shop as it is convenient to home & they are Jeep lovers 2. I had gotten comfy with my fave mechanic & this shook my confidence a little but am hoping for the best.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    advised no motor mount lift done because a body lift was not done only a suspension lift.

    Either you or they have that backwards. With a body lift the propeller shaft angles don't change so no engine lift or transfer case drop is required.

    However, a suspension lift does change those shaft angles, which then require correction to eliminate vibration.
  • mishkalvmishkalv Posts: 3
    hey mac 24...thanks for the reply. I'm confident I don't have it backwards, he even pointed out his personal Jeep as an example as his has both the body & suspension lift (his body lift being the reason he has the motor mount lift).

    perhaps your helping me solve the mystery shimmy...thanks for the education.
    Now, I'm getting nervous about the possibility of having to find a new shop & I'm sure they are tired of me & my questions/challenges to their opinions.

    Michele
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    .........he even pointed out his personal Jeep as an example as his has both the body & suspension lift (his body lift being the reason he has the motor mount lift).

    While he may be able to handle a wrench and knows how to do things (maybe), he obviously doesn't see the big picture and understand why they have to be done.

    I think I see a new shop in your future! ;)
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Michelle, you CAN do a motor lift without doing a body lift. You just have to have the fan shroud raised up a bit when you do it. If you don't the fan will get destroyed. The reason being: Motor is going up higher, but the fan shroud is attached to the radiator (and the rest of the body). That will 'tilt' the transmission and driveshaft a bit to get the angles a bit better to prevent rear driveline vibes.

    Relocating that shroud isn't complicated at all (drill some new holes in the plastic ABS shroud and you're set), but most just do both at the same time.

    I have a manual and have no slop in my gear at all.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    edited June 2010
    Michelle, you CAN do a motor lift without doing a body lift. You just have to have the fan shroud raised up a bit when you do it.

    Yes, that's how mine is set up and it eliminated the vibration that appeared after installing my OME suspension lift.

    However, a 3" lift is pretty much the max that this will work for, and looking back over the posts it appears you have a 4" suspension lift of some sort which would normally require a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) together with a different rear propshaft.

    Michelle,do you know which lift the shop originally installed and if anything else was done at the same time?

    Going back to the original questions, if there wasn't any slop in the gear lever before the clutch change there shouldn't be any now.
    It's likely the grinding when changing gear is due to wear in the brass synchromesh rings (synchros) which requires the transmission to be removed and opened to replace them.
    However, although it won't fix the wear, you may get some relief by changing to a synthetic transmission fluid.
    Although the standard fluid drain intervals are quite long, they should have drained yours as a diagnostic measure to look for excessive brass flakes in the oil.
  • Is this another tease or the protype of a new rubicon?

    Didn't spend Easter in Moab but just got Petersen's August issue.

    Don't need 4.56 gears and 42's but a hemi, portals, and first rate parts will keep me very interested. What hummer could be and the raptor was built for.
  • "On a side note..."

    Just saw the recall on another forum and the fix. Amazingly when I installed those handles in the fender liner, I saw the rubbing on the brake line. After pulling up the liner with those ace hardware handles, the rubbing ended. Paint gone from the passenger side line but no discernable metal abrasion. Trimmed the liner anyway. Good to go
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