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Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance

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  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    Another good choice is the Cooper Lifeliner SLE's. Just put a set on my 97 and man, what a difference. Quietist, smoothest tires I have ever owned, with excellent handling. Just my two cents....
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    Anything I should be ready for when doing the rears? Got AC/Delco pads which have a lot of clips with them. Dad claims his universal tool will take care of the pistons but I am afraid it might not and would like to be prepared by knowing what the correct tool number would be just in case.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    On mine, if I remember correctly, it used something like a spanner tool, two pockets to pick up the pins and turn the cylinder in. If a shop has done them before, be prepared for new boots. Some of these idiots grab the edge with channel locks scaring and creating sharp edges that cut the boot. Clean up with emory cloth and polish with finer.
    You might want to pop the piston out anyway to check for corrosion. As long as there is no deep pitting in critical areas, just polish up with fine cloth.
    A lot of trouble you say? Well I'd either buy new or do this. Rebuilts are dumped into huge sandblasting and rebored sometimes. They might get a new piston, but not oversized to accomadate the rebore. I've had some rebuilt that had so much metal removed the piston seemed sloppy and even with new clips there was some rattle.

    Best way to avoid these internal problems, especially with high priced antilock is to flush a new quart through every couple of years. Brake fluid attracts and absorbs water causing corrosion. Mercedes, before silicone, recommended this as an annual.
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    Got it done. !st time dealing with the kinda two piece deal. Saw the upper caliper pin was sealed and assumed both were so we started taking off the two huge bolts on the backing plate for the whole bracket when we found that the lower pin comes out and the inner part of the caliper pivots out on the upper pin. Retracting the piston went ok, but 'universal' tool did't seem to have the perfect fit, but loosely got the job done. Only other thing that needs to be done is removal of the clip which holds the parking brake cable to the a-arm so the unit will pivot high enough. No corrosion (Cal. car) and these were the orig. pads--118K! AC/Delco pads came with caliper bolt/bushing grease and new retainer clips for the pads.
  • len10len10 Member Posts: 1
    Any update on the best way to accomplish this task. Seems to be a great deal of parts in the way of access via the engine compartment and I have no friends with small hands actually now that I think about it I have no friends or enemies with small hands.

    Any info as to which bolts need to be removed?
  • crankenshaftcrankenshaft Member Posts: 1
    I recently upgraded my headlight bulbs to PIAA's. It was truly amazing how easy it is to remove the headlight assembly. On each side of the headlight assembly from the top down there are two cap screws (bolts) with 10mm heads (mine were silver colored). Once removed you can wiggle the whole headlight assembly forward and out. Make sure you don't drop it and I also suggest you place a cloth on the bumper assembly where the headlight is going to slide out so you don't scratch the finish. Give each bulb holder a 1/4 turn or so and it will lift right out. No other tools are needed aside from the 10MM wrench or socket.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Still needing info on whether a bad or intermittant VSS sensor will set code & or check engine light on 97 Sable wagon, 3.0.
  • carguydavidcarguydavid Member Posts: 1
    This message is from quite a while ago but I have a question regarding the rear air shocks. Is there a height adjustment of some sort? Ever since I had the shocks replaced about a year ago the back end has been too high. When I look at other Auroras, I can clearly see that the back end of mine is a good couple inches off. Are there any adjustments that can be done to your knowledge?
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I had the problem with my 95 that the rear of the car was all the way up. Meaning that the shocks were fully extended. This was not the natural position for the car. I took it to the shop and they told me there was a malfunction in the load leveling system. So my first question to you is - Does your aROARa load level? If you sit on the trunk will it raise up? If not you are already fully extended and the LL has malfunctioned. Sorry, but I do not remember the fix.

    Henri
  • dmerolladmerolla Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where I can get a view of the Serpentine belt diagram and any special instruction for changing
    Dave
  • mybabymybaby Member Posts: 1
    Hi gang,

    This is my first time on, so hope i'm doing it right. My problem is the light on the steering wheel that's for the temp control is out. Sometimes it can be persuade it to come on if you hit the center hub several times but lately I haven't had any luck. Is there a simple way to replace the bulb or does the button have to be replaced? Anyone with suggestions?

    Darryl
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Sorry, must have thought I was on other board.
  • yellowperilyellowperil Member Posts: 22
    The whole module has to be replaced, unfortunately. I had the same problem with half of my steering wheel buttons, but luckily they were replaced under warranty.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    This past weekend I changed oil and filter. I took the opportunity to replace the oil pressure sender/switch with ACDelco 3547417. It is a round cylinder about the size of a roll of quarters located on the driver side of the oil filter. Thanks to Robert Hammen and others for pointing out the sender as the most likely cause of low pressure readings on the DIC.

    Before the replacement oil pressure was often 7 psi at idle with the engine at operating temp. Now it drops only to 14.

    Les
  • lovegtolovegto Member Posts: 23
    My 2003 Aurora has a sporadic low engine coolant response on the DIC. The car has been taken to the dealer for warranty service twice on this issue but no satisfactory resolution to the problem has been found. The coolant level is adequate, I am wondering if anybody else has this issue and how it can be resolved. The problem is how will I know if the low engine coolant indicator is a false alarm or the real thing.
  • bryanbryan Member Posts: 198
    I have had the same problem (twice) on my '03 Aurora. Like you, the coolant level was correct both times, but I immediately took it in for service. The dealer replaced the sensor twice; second time seems to be the charm--no further problems. It's been more than a year since the last sensor replacement. Good luck. Bryan
  • georgex5georgex5 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Aurora 4-door sedan, loaded, which I bought used. The car is fine and runs good but I find the steering a little stiff. Is there any way to make the steering more responsive--easier to turn the wheels?

    Another adjustment I'd like to make concerns the panel lights. Whenever I turn the lights on at dusk or in rain, the panel lights go so dim I can barely read the numbers. Is there any adjustment for this?

    Thanks for the info.
  • tjm97tjm97 Member Posts: 27
    2000? 1999 or 2001 - no Auroras were built in 2000.

    Whether 1st or 2nd generation you can find Owner's Manuals at The Aurora Club of North America regarding the dimmer.

    Answers for steering issue can be found there too but you may want to check the air in your tires. I run mine at 34 psi cold and the steering is a lot easier.
  • jwhite5jwhite5 Member Posts: 1
    I need some advice. I have a 2001 Aurora, and the thing is sometimes it starts and sometimes it don't want to start. I keep turning, and turning. but finally after a million times turning i finally get it started. Have any suggestions?
  • tjm97tjm97 Member Posts: 27
    sounds like the fuel pressure regulator
  • dweston2dweston2 Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Aurora will seldom, and at random times, shift with rough jerks. To correct this, I stop, shut off the ignition, wait perhaps a minute, restart the car and all is ok. The dealer changed a part once (what one ?) but this didn't correct the situation. This happens very seldom, but is disconcerting.
  • brassadonisbrassadonis Member Posts: 17
    Blk97Aurora, Glad to hear your low pressure problem is gone.

    Hello everyone. My 97 Aurora's display reads "low oil pressure" along with a chime when the weather is over 85 degrees. Winter time there hasn't been a problem.

    My temp gauge goes above the mid-point after driving for about 20 minutes. Then when I stop at a light I receive the low oil pressure signal.

    Anyway. my question is this. I see alot of talk about the sending unit. Has any one had this problem with a consistant cure?

    Another site was telling me to over fill my engine with oil and rev it while in neutral.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    brass,

    Over-filling any engine is bad advice, PERIOD. It may stop the symptom temporarily, but can cause additional problems.

    How many miles on your '97? What oil viscosity are you running? GM's recommendation is 10W-30. Stay away from 5W (except maybe in cold weather). I use 15w-50 Mobil 1 in the summer to try to reduce oil consumption; as the weather cools, I switch to 10W-30.

    I don't understand what you mean by, "I see alot of talk about the sending unit. Has any one had this problem with a consistant cure?"

    I have been monitoring this Aurora board and another for 5-6 years, and I do not remember ever seeing a post about a failed oil pump.

    Hope this helps.

    Les
  • carhammcarhamm Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Aurora that needs a new oil pan. Does anyone know of a repair shop in the Dallas, TX area (Richardson)that would be fairly reasonable. The quotes I have gotten so far are anywhere from $900 to $1200. I do not have a lot of money to spend, but I am still making payments on the car and want to try to keep it. It is also making a clanking noise, maybe a belt??? Has anyone else had problems like this? Thanks for any help that you can give me! :sick:
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Why does your oil pan need to be replaced?

    Belts don't usually clank.

    Is the pan dented so that the crankshaft is hitting it? That would clank.

    Les
  • carhammcarhamm Member Posts: 2
    Les--Apparently, from what I have been told, there is a crack in the oil pan. I am wondering if it could just be welded or something, but three different places have told me the whole pan needs to be replaced. It drips continuously. Maybe the crankshaft is hitting the pan. It just started making that noise, and I'm afraid to drive it. It is actually my 19-year-old son's car. I am a single mom just trying to keep that car for a while until I can figure something else out. He has a job and is going to school, and we are down to one car now, mine! Do you think it is worth getting fixed? I have already had to have the transmission replaced and recently, the water pump. It is very expensive to get the car fixed, but I don't really think I can afford another car payment!

    Carmen... :cry:
  • brassadonisbrassadonis Member Posts: 17
    ok, I was calling it unit but in your post you use the term switch.

    I use 10W-30 Synthetic blend from my service shop.

    My car has 120,000 miles.

    Sseveral post recommended the Oil Pressure sending switch be replaced for a Low Oil Pressure warning. Stating that the car was fine but possbile the switch had went bad.

    blk97aurora, "Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance" #421, 2 May 2006 10:26 am

    Your post said the switch looks like a roll of quarters. so did that solve the problem of the low oil pressure warnings

    Thanks

    "My 97 Aurora's display reads "low oil pressure" along with a chime when the weather is over 75/85 degrees. Winter time there hasn't been a problem.

    My temp gauge goes above the mid-point after driving for about 20 minutes. Then when I stop at a light I receive the low oil pressure signal."
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Yes. That's what "goodbye low oil-pressure readings" meant.

    The unit is both a sender and a switch. It is a sender because it presents a variable resistance for the gauge which is translated by the PCM as a pressure reading. It is a switch because if oil pressure drops to zero, the switch will open the circuit that supplies voltage to the fuel pump, thus stopping it. This is a safety feature. There is a by-pass that allows the fuel pump to run while cranking the engine before oil pressure is high enough to close the switch.

    Hope this helps.

    Les
  • brassadonisbrassadonis Member Posts: 17
    Thanks you BLK97,

    Do you know if your temp gauge would rise some before your "low oil pressure" messsage would display/chime as you would stop at a light?
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    I never received a low oil pressure message. My concern was that the oil pressure indication in the DIC would go as low as 7 psi. According to the service manual, the low limit is 5 psi; 7 was too close for my comfort. The warning message turns on at 4 psi and lower.

    I have never seen a rapid drop in oil pressure due to rise in temp. When starting up after sitting overnight, the oil pressure is in the 70-80 psi range depending on engine rpm. Then pressure drops gradually as temp goes up.

    Les
  • jesse01jesse01 Member Posts: 3
    My onboard computer reads RPM---,and the oil light remains on, even after getting the oil changed. Are these two items related. I have had this problem for over a year. The car runs fine, but I smell oil burning all time. Could anyone help me.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    By the way, I had my rusting break lines replaced. IT was not the fuel lines. I made a mistake.

    Henri
  • phil95phil95 Member Posts: 30
    I just read a message but didn't see an answer. I would like to drain the radiator and refill with dex-cool. but I don't want a power flush (97k) I'm not looking for trouble. I. do have to remove the air low cover to get at the radiator petcock? and 2. is there enough room for what? 3 gallons of mix. and would you run it hot with a garden hose stuck in the overflow of just empty the radiator. Been a long time since I did a flush. I'm only good too -10 I live in Illinois should -30 of -40 to cool properly. and it has Zerex in it. I'm retired and haven't done a flush since my teens.I'm retired. I have newer cars and bought this autobahn as a hobby. I have always loved them and found this an older gent local who wanted a flexfuel car.This car is like new. when I bought it the only things wrong where a cup holder flapper (junk yard) and I had to re-dye the shifter. But I noticed it had carquest radiator hoses and the wrong coolant. The old man had a fast oil change place fix it. Winter comes up fast here. And I still want to put a new battery in it. Otherwish I had my mecanic go over the whole car and knock on wood he can't find any problems or error codes.
    I'm a streetrodder I have '40 Ford Deluxe 350 chevy ,305 turbo hydro ,mustang front end. It has electric windows ,air, all shaved, all eletric doors and trunk. Took many trophys. the reason I mention this is it's normally aspirated and doestn't have 100 miles of wires in it like the Olds. It's a striaght forward custom. that I can't drive in the winter. so I took on the Olds figuring it's halfway to a hotrod with some luxrury I can tool around in. The Olds is Champaige no matter how much I buffed it , it 's still not what you call striking. Plenty of high grade wax but........well it's Champaigne. Anyway it's needs coolant and a battery. and you guys know the tricks.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    About four weeks ago when the temperature in NJ went over 100 degrees, the headlights of my '97 starting going on and off when it was parked and turned off --> the ol' multi-function switch problem.

    I had this problem in 2000. I was fortunate to be able to demonstrate this intermittent problem to the service manager where I bought the car. They replaced the switch with 320 miles left on my 50,000 warranty ~$500.

    This time I fixed the problem myself as has been well documented -- electrical contact cleaner and canned air.

    Les
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Yesterday after working on my Classic with the doors open and ignition switch turned to accessory for about 10 minutes, the battery went flat dead. Battery charger brought it back to life, but I know from previous experience that I need to replace the battery, especially with colder weather on the way.

    I cannot find a vented group 76 battery. ACDelco has a group 79 as does Autocraft; both are rated at 880 CCA. The original battery in our Classics was 970 CCA. I am also considering the Optima redtop group 34/78 which has a 800 CCA rating. My concern with both alternatives is losing either 9% or 18% respectively in CCA rating.

    Does anyone know of an available vented group 76 battery?

    Does anyone have experience with Optima redtop 34/78 or yellowtop D34/78?

    Les
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Hi Les,

    Per http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/battery_search- /battery_search.html

    when I entered 1998-1999 Olds Aurora (for me), or 1995-1997 (for you), both times it came out with nothing matching the vehicle specs.

    I would probably go with the AC Delco replacement regardless (as long as it is vented)... up until my GTO, I had good luck with AC Delco batteries, but the one in my GTO started leaking almost immediately, and I accidentally dropped it when taking to to my dealer. Picked up a Red Top and it's worked exceptionally well on the GTO (lots of GTO Delco battery problems - maybe from the boat ride from Oz?).

    I replaced mine in 2002, so I'm guessing this will probably be my last winter with my replacement battery...

    --Robert
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Robert,

    Thanks for your reply. Yes, I saw the no match. When I called customer service to verify, the guy told me the 800 CCA Red Top would be OK since weather in NJ rarely gets as cold as 0 degrees. I'm not convinced. He suggested the deep-discharge Yellow Top. But I checked its specs, and it is rated at only 775 CCA.

    Did the stock mounting arrangement work OK with your Red Top? Cables?

    Les
  • rajsekharrajsekhar Member Posts: 2
    I bought this 97 Aurora about 2 months ago. It was running
    fine until yesterday, when i switched on songs and kept cleaning my car. The battery went down. Jumpstart worked but
    for replacement i am not able to find the 76 series battery.

    Which battery can i buy to replace this one. All this is
    very much new to me. Somebody please help me with this. I have
    seen messages from 97blkaurora but i am not able to understand which battery was used. Please explain me clearly. I would be very much thankfull.

    best regards
    Rajsekhar
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Rajsekhar,

    Group 76 batteries are no longer made by anyone I could find. I replaced my Aurora battery with ACDelco 79-72 ($110 plus core plus tx at PepBoys). It is one inch shorter than the 76. Battery and cables fit fine but the original vent tubing is too long. I have ordered vent tube for '98-'99 Aurora which came with group 79 battery.

    Whatever you buy, be sure the battery is vented (or doesn't need venting like the Optima).

    Hope this helps.

    Les
  • rajsekharrajsekhar Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Les, that surely helps me......
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Most third-party batteries aren't made for/don't fit in the Classic. Your best bet is to go to a Buick dealer (where I got mine when it died in 2002)... since the Riviera used a similar battery.

    List price was $129 in August/September of 2002, I think I paid $114. As long as my battery shows no sign of decline this winter, I will not replace it until next fall...
  • ronlipparonlippa Member Posts: 1
    I would like to change the spark plugs on my 2002 Oldsmobile Aurora 3.5 litre gas engine. How do I go about it? I can't seem to locate the spark plugs.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    The spark plugs are right in the top of the cam covers. But there are no wires to them because the car uses coil-on-plug ignition. You'll have to remove the coil pack from each cam cover to reveal the spark plugs. I'd post a link to the aurora club of north america where there's a writeup of the swap, but I'm sure my reply would just get deleted, as Edmund's frowns on that.
  • georgex5georgex5 Member Posts: 4
    The camshaft sensor on my 2000 or 2001 Aurora started acting up, causing unreliable starting. An auto mechanic removed the sensor and found a small metal chip on the face of it. A new sensor was installed and car operation returned to normal.

    My first question is: Where did that metal chip probably come from and what, if anything does it mean? Is there a big problem lurking ahead?

    Second, unrelated (I think) question: A lot of grease was found under the car near the right front wheel. It was on the framework and nearby items. If this grease came from the car, what is the most likely source? The mechanic removed most of this grease. I will return to the mechanic in a day or two and we will see whether more grease shows up, and if it does, try to find the source.

    Thanks for any info on these items.

    Regards, George
  • rissachickrissachick Member Posts: 1
    I bought my 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora about a year ago. I recently sold it and now I am stuck with the stock wheels. They are in great shape and I must get these things out of my barn!
    Name YOUR price!
    Please email me and let me know if you are interested.
  • georgex5georgex5 Member Posts: 4
    My Aurora says it is low on coolant. I can turn the coolant cap about a quarter turn and then it seems to grab or bind. Is it okay to force it open from there, or is there some trick?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Press down on it as you turn.
  • ahotrodahotrod Member Posts: 1
    My parents have a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora with an odometer that apparently reads in kilometers, while the speedometer reads in mph. Is there a way to change the odometer to read in miles rather than km? My dad says he's looked through the manual and can find no information on this. Someone suggested that perhaps the car had been manufactured for Canada delivery (distance in km and speed in mph) and that there is no way to change the odometer reading to miles.

    Any thoughts/ideas would be appreciated.

    Thanks!
  • 96auroradude96auroradude Member Posts: 2
    My Check Engine light goes off and on. I just recently got the car and wondered what options I have. The car seems to be running great and the light does not stay on all the time. Any suggestions would be helpful.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    dude,

    One or more of the national chains (like Autozone, PepBoys, etc.) will read the codes for you free. I have my own code scanner, so I haven't tried this and do not remember which companies. Check around.

    Les
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