Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
You might want to pop the piston out anyway to check for corrosion. As long as there is no deep pitting in critical areas, just polish up with fine cloth.
A lot of trouble you say? Well I'd either buy new or do this. Rebuilts are dumped into huge sandblasting and rebored sometimes. They might get a new piston, but not oversized to accomadate the rebore. I've had some rebuilt that had so much metal removed the piston seemed sloppy and even with new clips there was some rattle.
Best way to avoid these internal problems, especially with high priced antilock is to flush a new quart through every couple of years. Brake fluid attracts and absorbs water causing corrosion. Mercedes, before silicone, recommended this as an annual.
Any info as to which bolts need to be removed?
Henri
Dave
This is my first time on, so hope i'm doing it right. My problem is the light on the steering wheel that's for the temp control is out. Sometimes it can be persuade it to come on if you hit the center hub several times but lately I haven't had any luck. Is there a simple way to replace the bulb or does the button have to be replaced? Anyone with suggestions?
Darryl
Before the replacement oil pressure was often 7 psi at idle with the engine at operating temp. Now it drops only to 14.
Les
Another adjustment I'd like to make concerns the panel lights. Whenever I turn the lights on at dusk or in rain, the panel lights go so dim I can barely read the numbers. Is there any adjustment for this?
Thanks for the info.
Whether 1st or 2nd generation you can find Owner's Manuals at The Aurora Club of North America regarding the dimmer.
Answers for steering issue can be found there too but you may want to check the air in your tires. I run mine at 34 psi cold and the steering is a lot easier.
Hello everyone. My 97 Aurora's display reads "low oil pressure" along with a chime when the weather is over 85 degrees. Winter time there hasn't been a problem.
My temp gauge goes above the mid-point after driving for about 20 minutes. Then when I stop at a light I receive the low oil pressure signal.
Anyway. my question is this. I see alot of talk about the sending unit. Has any one had this problem with a consistant cure?
Another site was telling me to over fill my engine with oil and rev it while in neutral.
Over-filling any engine is bad advice, PERIOD. It may stop the symptom temporarily, but can cause additional problems.
How many miles on your '97? What oil viscosity are you running? GM's recommendation is 10W-30. Stay away from 5W (except maybe in cold weather). I use 15w-50 Mobil 1 in the summer to try to reduce oil consumption; as the weather cools, I switch to 10W-30.
I don't understand what you mean by, "I see alot of talk about the sending unit. Has any one had this problem with a consistant cure?"
I have been monitoring this Aurora board and another for 5-6 years, and I do not remember ever seeing a post about a failed oil pump.
Hope this helps.
Les
Belts don't usually clank.
Is the pan dented so that the crankshaft is hitting it? That would clank.
Les
Carmen...
I use 10W-30 Synthetic blend from my service shop.
My car has 120,000 miles.
Sseveral post recommended the Oil Pressure sending switch be replaced for a Low Oil Pressure warning. Stating that the car was fine but possbile the switch had went bad.
blk97aurora, "Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance" #421, 2 May 2006 10:26 am
Your post said the switch looks like a roll of quarters. so did that solve the problem of the low oil pressure warnings
Thanks
"My 97 Aurora's display reads "low oil pressure" along with a chime when the weather is over 75/85 degrees. Winter time there hasn't been a problem.
My temp gauge goes above the mid-point after driving for about 20 minutes. Then when I stop at a light I receive the low oil pressure signal."
The unit is both a sender and a switch. It is a sender because it presents a variable resistance for the gauge which is translated by the PCM as a pressure reading. It is a switch because if oil pressure drops to zero, the switch will open the circuit that supplies voltage to the fuel pump, thus stopping it. This is a safety feature. There is a by-pass that allows the fuel pump to run while cranking the engine before oil pressure is high enough to close the switch.
Hope this helps.
Les
Do you know if your temp gauge would rise some before your "low oil pressure" messsage would display/chime as you would stop at a light?
I have never seen a rapid drop in oil pressure due to rise in temp. When starting up after sitting overnight, the oil pressure is in the 70-80 psi range depending on engine rpm. Then pressure drops gradually as temp goes up.
Les
Henri
I'm a streetrodder I have '40 Ford Deluxe 350 chevy ,305 turbo hydro ,mustang front end. It has electric windows ,air, all shaved, all eletric doors and trunk. Took many trophys. the reason I mention this is it's normally aspirated and doestn't have 100 miles of wires in it like the Olds. It's a striaght forward custom. that I can't drive in the winter. so I took on the Olds figuring it's halfway to a hotrod with some luxrury I can tool around in. The Olds is Champaige no matter how much I buffed it , it 's still not what you call striking. Plenty of high grade wax but........well it's Champaigne. Anyway it's needs coolant and a battery. and you guys know the tricks.
I had this problem in 2000. I was fortunate to be able to demonstrate this intermittent problem to the service manager where I bought the car. They replaced the switch with 320 miles left on my 50,000 warranty ~$500.
This time I fixed the problem myself as has been well documented -- electrical contact cleaner and canned air.
Les
I cannot find a vented group 76 battery. ACDelco has a group 79 as does Autocraft; both are rated at 880 CCA. The original battery in our Classics was 970 CCA. I am also considering the Optima redtop group 34/78 which has a 800 CCA rating. My concern with both alternatives is losing either 9% or 18% respectively in CCA rating.
Does anyone know of an available vented group 76 battery?
Does anyone have experience with Optima redtop 34/78 or yellowtop D34/78?
Les
Per http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/battery_search- /battery_search.html
when I entered 1998-1999 Olds Aurora (for me), or 1995-1997 (for you), both times it came out with nothing matching the vehicle specs.
I would probably go with the AC Delco replacement regardless (as long as it is vented)... up until my GTO, I had good luck with AC Delco batteries, but the one in my GTO started leaking almost immediately, and I accidentally dropped it when taking to to my dealer. Picked up a Red Top and it's worked exceptionally well on the GTO (lots of GTO Delco battery problems - maybe from the boat ride from Oz?).
I replaced mine in 2002, so I'm guessing this will probably be my last winter with my replacement battery...
--Robert
Thanks for your reply. Yes, I saw the no match. When I called customer service to verify, the guy told me the 800 CCA Red Top would be OK since weather in NJ rarely gets as cold as 0 degrees. I'm not convinced. He suggested the deep-discharge Yellow Top. But I checked its specs, and it is rated at only 775 CCA.
Did the stock mounting arrangement work OK with your Red Top? Cables?
Les
fine until yesterday, when i switched on songs and kept cleaning my car. The battery went down. Jumpstart worked but
for replacement i am not able to find the 76 series battery.
Which battery can i buy to replace this one. All this is
very much new to me. Somebody please help me with this. I have
seen messages from 97blkaurora but i am not able to understand which battery was used. Please explain me clearly. I would be very much thankfull.
best regards
Rajsekhar
Group 76 batteries are no longer made by anyone I could find. I replaced my Aurora battery with ACDelco 79-72 ($110 plus core plus tx at PepBoys). It is one inch shorter than the 76. Battery and cables fit fine but the original vent tubing is too long. I have ordered vent tube for '98-'99 Aurora which came with group 79 battery.
Whatever you buy, be sure the battery is vented (or doesn't need venting like the Optima).
Hope this helps.
Les
List price was $129 in August/September of 2002, I think I paid $114. As long as my battery shows no sign of decline this winter, I will not replace it until next fall...
My first question is: Where did that metal chip probably come from and what, if anything does it mean? Is there a big problem lurking ahead?
Second, unrelated (I think) question: A lot of grease was found under the car near the right front wheel. It was on the framework and nearby items. If this grease came from the car, what is the most likely source? The mechanic removed most of this grease. I will return to the mechanic in a day or two and we will see whether more grease shows up, and if it does, try to find the source.
Thanks for any info on these items.
Regards, George
Name YOUR price!
Please email me and let me know if you are interested.
Any thoughts/ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks!
One or more of the national chains (like Autozone, PepBoys, etc.) will read the codes for you free. I have my own code scanner, so I haven't tried this and do not remember which companies. Check around.
Les