Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

icvci · January 2004

When I turn my fan any higher than 2 it makes a clicking noise (like there is something hitting the fan.) It is actually deeper than a click but, I can't describe it.

I also have something loose in my dash. It rattles every now and then. I guess it's time to visit the dealer.

cdnp5 · January 2004

While we where at Tremblant in Quebec skiing I parked my car as I didn't need to drive it. The temps rose to only -20C (that was the warmest day) and had lows of -35C at night not counting the wind chill. After the second day we decided to head into a town. So after praying to the 'hope my car starts' gods it did (thank you) but then I noticed that my gear shifter won't move (standard transmission) at all. It felt like it was stuck in cement. After letting the car warm a bit then I started to try and move it back and forth in neutral. After a bit of work it slowly started to move side to side. Mind you by this time, the engine temp gauge is now at the 1/4 mark. I did manage to get it into gear and was able to change gears but it was very stiff. Once everything warmed, all worked as it should.

So after that long story, does anybody who lives in cold temps have this problem?

reitrof · January 2004

cdnp5,

I was in Montreal this weekend and Ontario. Coldest temp was -30C. Car was a little hard to start but no problems. I know what you mean by stiff. I had the same trouble before I switched to Redline MT 90. Still a little stiff but much better than the normal fluid.

I was able to start the car and move it around before it warmed up. I couldn't have done that with the regular fluid.

andrewk · January 2004

I suspected my new P5 was slightly out of alignment (pulled to the left) when I test drove it, so I asked that it be evaluated prior to delivery. I made mention of this during the transaction/paperwork and the salesman said that he talked to his shop and said this is normal; to pull to the left slightly and that they set it that was because of the crown of the road. I had a different vehicle that would do this to a small extent (react slightly to the crown) but with the very tight steering on the P5, it is very noticeable to me.

They did say it would be under warranty and if it were a continued problem to bring it back and they would correct it. I wouldn't think alignment to be a warrantable item.

Any comments, feedback, or response to similar experiences, or is this dealer just jacking with me?

Thanks, Andy

boggse · January 2004

The alignment is covered under the "adjustment warranty" period of 12 months/12,000 miles. Get them to put it on the machine. My 2003 arrived out of alignment as well. I had it fixed under warranty at ~600 miles. If you are past the warranty period, then find a precision alignment shop in your area. Don't just take it anywhere. If you are having trouble finding the correct type of shop, then lookup the nearest sports car club on google and ask there.

Ted

andrewk · February 2004

I just got the car last week so I will have plenty of time to get it corrected under that warranty. I am going to wait a couple of weeks to see if there are any other bugs in it that will need to be addressed.

Thanks Ted!

blitzboi · February 2004

Hi All,

I've got a 2003 Protege5 with only 3500km on it so far (got it October 1st). It ran on factory-installed oil until about 3200km, when it was switched to Mobil 1 synthetic.

A few weeks back the engine started producing a noticeable valvetrain-like noise upon start up. I only noticed this following several days of cold starts when it was -20C outside (a cold snap in Toronto).

It now still produces the noise when cold starting, but even with the engine warmed up sufficiently (i.e. in the middle of the temp guage), under moderate-throttle, the engine is producing this 'rattling' noise. Under heavy throttle, which I rarely do, the engine is so noisy anyway that I can't discern the valvetrain noise, but it's likely still there.

My moderate knowledge of engines suggests to me that this might be a faulty hydraulic lifter (or two).

I'm considering taking the car into my local Mazda dealer to see what they think of the situation, but I wanted to first know (a) if anyone has experienced this with their Protege5 or 2.0L Protege, and/or (b) Does my hypothesis sound reasonable?

Any help/suggestions/etc will be most appreciated.

Geoff.

mazdafun · February 2004

Mazda engines haven't used hydraulic lash adjusters in years. They use fixed-thickness (except for thermal expansion) shims to adjust valve stroke. You may have (though not likely at 3500km) worn a couple down.

Might be a stuck intake valve (has happened to a few folk's Proteges) or PCV (clean it or replace it). These are easy to access, so shouldn't cost much to check and fix.

Check your oil pump. Also verify oil is being pumped to the valvetrain. There may be a clog somewhere.

You might also want to check the timing mechanism, though this is a bit more involved (and costly) as they have to remove quite a number of parts to access the timing belt. However, I doubt this is the cause as you didn't notice it when you got your P5 and a timing belt shouldn't stretch that much, even by the time it should be replaced. It still may be a cause, but I'd check other items first.

dinu01 · February 2004

Known issue - nothing major - a simple ECU reprogram will reduce the pinging.

Email me for the TSB

Dinu

boggse · February 2004

My P5 is in the dealer right now for the same problem. I am going to call and ask them to check the TSBs for my model. It started doing it at 18k miles.

Also, my dealer noted that the bushings on my sway bars need replacing. This seems a little early for that sort of failure. Since they are back ordered, can I assume this isn't unusual? I was considering replacing the sway bars anyway; would now be a good time to go about it?

Ted

boggse · February 2004

I had the TSB PCM reprogramming done this afternoon on my P5. The tech claims he did a search on it this morning, but found nothing. I looked it up on autopedia and took the printout with me to the dealer. They agreed to perform the PCM reprogram with no hesitation. I will check tomorrow morning to see if the problem is gone. My new sway bar bushings will not be in until the 24th, so we will be making another trip back to the dealer then.

Ted

alacat · February 2004

I have an '03 Protege5 with the Sport AT 4-speed automatic transmission and I'm not getting the gas mileage I feel I should. The car was rated 25 city and 30 highway. I usually end up getting around 22-23mpg with a combination of city and highway driving. I've gotten as low as 18.83 on all city driving and the best I've gotten in normal (see below) highway driving is 29.86. The traffic on the interstates here usually runs around 80mph and on highways between 60 and 75 and those are comfortable speeds for me. However, interstate/h'way driving is probably only about 15-20% of my driving. I participated in an automobile tour this weekend of some homes in the country and drove 175 miles (with some of those last miles being city driving) and got 29.61 mpg. Our speeds averaged about 45 mph though - slower than I care to go in normal highway driving. I have kept track of my mileage since the odometer was at 1811. So far, I have traveled a total of 6742.1 miles (total miles studied: 4931.1); used 213.703 gallons of regular gas for an overall average mpg of 23.07. I've noted a decline lately too. My first 13 tanks averaged 23.005 mpg and my last 9 have averaged 20.17 mpg.

The dealership doesn't believe me in spite of my record-keeping. Does anyone out there think this is correct for this small,underpowered car (which, incidentally, I bought for its advertised high gas mileage and its good looks)? Or, are my expectations too high?

Alacat

mazdafun · February 2004

My wife's P5 started at around 26mpg in mostly stop-n-go freeway travel. After about 1800 miles, its average mpg has gone up to a bit over 29mpg.

It should go up a little after the break-in period.

Also, both my wife's car and mine (a Protege sedan) drop in fuel economy over the winter due to many factors (less energy content in "winter" fuel, cold starts, cold oil, cold transmission fluid) by about 2mpg (my sedan gets about 29mpg in mostly local driving, but has been getting about 27mpg lately).

We (more like I, since I take care of that in my wife's car too) run our tires at 34psi (cold) and use synthetic motor oil. I also check to be sure our air filters are fairly clean (I check at every oil change, instead of waiting for the interval specified in the manual, since it's easy enough). After a full oil, filter and air filter change, I usually detect a bump-up in mpg (usually between 1-2mpg).

You might want to be sure your parking brakes aren't dragging. Some have stuck, leading to low mpg and premature wear of the rear brake pads.

boggse · February 2004

I drive the hell out of my P5, and rarely get less than 26 mpg. On one trip over the holidays, I got 32 mpg while averaging 80 mph with the roof top cargo box! I would definitely have the dealer check your parking brake.

Ted

jgetz · March 2004

Is anyone experiencing problems with their clutch clicking when pushing it in? I have a 2002 P5 and about a year or so ago, the clutch started to click. I've taken it to two different dealers, the first couldn't replicate the problem and the second replaced a worn clip, but the problem persists. My warranty is almost up, so I'm running out of time. Does anyone have any ideas?

autohound1 · March 2004

I don't have this pblm with mine (2003), but check out post 322# on this forum to see if it applies. Or check this tsb to see if this might be it.....

MT000003848 - CLUTCH CHATTER DURING COLD TAKEOFF

Some vehicles may exhibit a clutch chatter or judder when releasing clutch during cold conditions. This may be caused by the flywheel and clutch cover surface materials creating a chatter or judder during clutch engagement.

The flywheel and clutch cover has been revised to correct this concern.
1. Verify customer concern.
2. Remove the manual transmission according to the following Workshop Manual procedure: * 5 Speed: MANUAL TRANSMISSION REMOVAL/INSTALLATION M25M-R (section 05-15A-3).
3. Remove clutch disc, clutch cover and flywheel according to the Workshop Manual procedure CLUTCH UNIT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION (section 05-10).
4. Install new clutch disc, clutch cover and flywheel according to the Workshop Manual procedure CLUTCH UNIT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION (section 05-10).
5. Reinstall the manual transmission according to the following Workshop Manual procedure: * 5 Speed: MANUAL TRANSMISSION REMOVAL/INSTALLATION M25M-R (section 05-15A-3).
6. Verify repair.
Part(s)Information: Part Number Description Qty Notes FP01-16-410A-9U Clutch Cover 1 1.8L FS05-16-410A Clutch Cover 1 2.0L FP49-11-500A Flywheel 1 1.8L FS01-11-500A Flywheel 1 2.0L B633-16-460A-9U Clutch Disc 1 1.8L FS06-16-460 Clutch Disc 1 2.0L Note: Make sure the dealer contacts DAG to specify order the above parts.

jgetz · March 2004

Autohound1, thanks...neither of those describe my problem exactly, but they're close. I'll run them past the dealer and see what they say. Thanks again, Jeff

toneetouch · March 2004

i have my first complaint of my otherwise perfect p5: the aluminum has completely rubbed off of one small spot. my wife always leaves a bottle of lotion underneath the parking brake and today while vacuuming the car i noticed that the bottle has rubbed a three finger sized section completely free of the metal paint. does any one have any solution to this? can it be fixed under warranty? no big deal, but i'd like to have it fixed if i could.

Ant

PF_Flyer · March 2004

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mdaffron · March 2004

The clutch chatter (actually it slips for the first few engagements on cold, damp mornings) has been a "feature" of my 2000 Protege ES since I bought it in May 2000. I inquired about it way back then and was told it was an "idiosyncracy" of the clutch design, and I had no reason to disbelieve this explanation since my 1992 LX, which I bought new in September 1992, did it for all 83,000 miles I owned the car. After a few takeoffs on damp mornings it would disappear, and it never got any worse -- or better. Likewise, my 2000 has done it since day one, and I now have 72,000 miles on the car. Other than this "quirk" I have had zero problems with the car.

Well, the reason for this post is, after hearing about this TSB for several months, I finally contacted my dealership's service manager last week. Due partly to my diligence, but probably mostly to the fact that I've been a customer of this dealership for 12 years and bought five new cars from them and have a bit of a "preferred customer" status, they cut me a deal.

Remember that a clutch is considered a "wear item" and to that effect, it's only covered for 12 months/12,000 miles on the Protege. Well, after 72,000 miles, my service manager cut me a bit of a deal, shall we say: I can have this upgrade performed for the shop's internal labor cost of $303, and Mazda will eat the $400 parts cost. Since I plan to keep this very reliable car until it literally falls apart, I think the $303 cost of bringing the clutch up-to-date (along with getting an entirely new clutch system at 72,000 miles) ought to go a big step toward the car's future reliability.

Over the weekend I received the card announcing that the parts have arrived, and I'll probably take the car in next week for this all-day job.

Any of you who plan to keep the car for an extended period of time might consider taking your service manager to task on this. While I have had zero clutch problems over four years, and the "chatter" hasn't gotten any worse, this seems to be a great way to get a new clutch a little early -- but for substantially less than you'll pay when it really does come clutch-replacement time.

I'll try to remember to let you guys know how the new clutch assembly works out. If you haven't heard anything from me in a few weeks, you might want to go try the Mazda Protege discussion where I normally hang out -- or the Mazda Protege Problems & Solutions discussion (under Maintenance & Repair) where this topic has been discussed ad nauseum in recent weeks.

Zoom Zoom,

Meade

mdaffron · April 2004

I'll keep you guys informed if you're interested.

Meade

reitrof · April 2004

Yes please Meade.

Thanks

mdaffron · April 2004

I feel for my little guy -- all this invasive surgery simply for easier clutch engagements on cold, wet mornings. How selfish I am.

Poor Zoomster. My heart aches. Think I'll have a cry.

mdaffron · April 2004

Just got a call from Mike at Whitten Mazda. My 73,000-mile-old clutch and flywheel looked ...

...

"GREAT." "JUST FINE." "LOTS OF WEAR LEFT."

I hope there's a LOT of improvement with this new one!!!

Meade

mdaffron · April 2004

Car's ready; was finished at 2:15 p.m. Total cost for new clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and bearing, labor only:

$302.50

I'll have a report on the important part -- how the car drives -- tomorrow morning.

Parts cost, from what I understand, was around $400. So figure $700 for a new clutch from Mazda, guys. (If you ever need one, that is -- read my previous post.) I'll have the receipt and some exact information tomorrow.

Meade

mdaffron · April 2004

OK friends, here's what was replaced on Zoomster (my 2000 Protege ES, 73,000-and-some-odd miles) yesterday. Got my receipt right here in front of me:

FP01-16-410-9U, "Clutch cvr"
FP49-11-500A, "Wheel, Fly"
B633-16-460A-9U, "Clutch Dis"
FP01-16-510, "Collar, Clu"

All of the above items were charged to "Warranty."

Here's what the service writer wrote on my order:

"Customer states chatter when letting clutch out, install S/O/P. Remove transmission and replace clutch assembly and fly wheel H0101XDX.

"Mazda goodwill to pay for parts. Customer to pay labor at $55.00 per hour at 5.5 labor hours."

And that's just what I did. 5.5 x $55.00 = $302.50. (By the way, my dealership's normal labor rate is $72.95 an hour.)

Now, the important part.

Of course, it was sunny and 70 when I picked the car up, and on the way home the car responded pretty much like it always did. If anything I noticed that engagements were a little smoother -- hard to describe. The car just felt smoother to drive.

The real difference came this morning. The day dawned sunny but cold -- 34 degrees at my house -- and dew was all over everything. It was damp! Yay, perfect clutch-chatter conditions!

I was a little nervous as I backed out of the driveway, wondering if the damned car was going to chatter anyway and I would have wasted 300 bucks. Well, I backed out into the street, put the car in first, let out the clutch, and ...

...

Smooooooooooooooth baby!!! No chatter at all. Every subsequent engagement was spot-on, textbook quality.

And this morning I had a little more time (and distance) to make some observations. Call me nuts, but I would swear the car runs more smoothly now. Maybe the clutch wasn't being held properly against the flywheel before? Maybe the tension wasn't enough on the old one when engaged and that's what caused the chatter? And therefore, with the new clutch plate held more tightly against the flywheel now, there isn't a possible slight amount of slippage or wandering on the flywheel that there may have been before? Whatever the case, it's buttah now, baby. I'm happy. The car's never felt like this before.

Zoomster and I are now looking toward that big 100K in the sky ... and we shall go on farther, my friends, in search of roads uncharted and out-of-the-way twisties!

Meade

reitrof · April 2004

Hi Meade,

Thanks for the update. I might try and see if my dealer will do the same. I am like you, only see the problem on cold mornings, not after a couple of miles.

torwadeo · April 2004

I own a 1999 Mazda Protege with a manual transmission. There are 71K miles on the car.

When I fist start driving my car the gear box feels normal and I can shift into gears smoothly.

After a few miles or so the gears get tight and it makes a squaking sound when I shift into gear.

Also after driving for a long time ( 3 hours) the car has trouble idling. It feels like its going to stall.

Any help you could give me would be appreciated.

Love the car.

mdaffron · April 2004

Well, I can't account for your shifter problem, although it sounds like the gasketing inside your shifter may be getting worn out. The shifter on my 2000 Protege ES 5-speed (73,000 miles) makes a little bit of a rubbery noise when I shift, but it's far from objectionable -- barely noticeable unless it's dead silent in the car.

As for the idle problem -- I think I've got your problem solved. Have you ever had your spark plug wires replaced? This is my third Protege over the course of 12 years, and ever since the first one, which started having the same problem at about 35,000 miles, I have learned and become accustomed to replacing my plug wires every 30,000 miles. The design of Mazda's cylinder head takes the wires about six inches down inside the engine to connect to the plugs. This area gets very hot and can also attract moisture, and the ends of the wires do break down over time and can short to the walls of the head. A replacement set runs anywhere from $40 aftermarket to around $75 for the OEM Mazda set from the factory. Replacement takes all of five minutes and is very simple, as long as you replace one wire at a time and pay attention to which wire you're replacing as you go.

I'll almost bet money that replacing the wires will solve your problem, assuming you've kept up on your recommended maintenance and you've already replaced the plugs themselves.

Meade

PF_Flyer · May 2004

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dwryter · July 2004

Some time ago, Mazda issued a few TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) on wind noise coming from the windshield, side windows, and vents, and one TSB on rough idling. I brought my 2002 P5 in for these problems and the dealer no longer had any of the TSBs on his system. He said if I can find them, he'll look into the situations. I'll do a little research to find more info about the TSBs. But meanwhile, I'm curious if anyone else has succeeded in getting either of these issues addressed under warranty and, if so, if any fixes solved the problems.

protege_fan · July 2004

Comprehensive list of TSBs here:
http://web2.airmail.net/theman/protegefaq/tsb/

pciskowski · July 2004

Anyone had this noise? It sounds like it is coming from the area of the spare or jack, but I have removed both and it still happens. It only happens sometimes when going over bumps, not every time.

chicagopro · July 2004

Having just gone through this with my '00 sedan, I'm going to put my money on one or more of the stabilizer links needing replacing.

pciskowski · July 2004

How much did it cost?

chicagopro · July 2004

My repair might be different from yours, 'cause I needed both fronts and rears replaced. And these part numbers might be different from what you need, because again, I have a sedan (ES).

MAZ B26R-34-170 (Link control, 9") qty. = 2 @ 45.11 each

MAZ 9994-01-000 (nut, flange) qty. = 8 @ 3.30 each

MAZ BJOE-28-170 (link, control-stab) qty. = 2 @ 41.74 each

total parts = 200.10

total labor = 228.00

total charge = 428.10

Please note that those parts prices are what my dealer actually charged me...about 25% to 30% above Mazda suggested retail. My dealer also went a little crazy with the labor charges.

YMMV.

PF_Flyer · July 2004

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pciskowski · July 2004

Took it to the dealer today - you were correct. Funny how when I took it in for the same noise under warrarty it was the jack, and now that it is out of warranty it is $300.

chicagopro · July 2004

Sorry to hear it cost you so much; on the other hand, you made out better than I did.

How many did they replace?

mdaffron · July 2004

Or extended warranty?

Meade

kauai215 · July 2004

You wrote:
"Funny how when I took it in for the same noise under warranty it was the jack, and now that it is out of warranty it is $300."

LOL! This must be one of the best summaries I've seen of auto problems! It might well sway a judge in small claims court. I'll borrow this and store it for possible future use, if I may. :-)

Thanks -- and my commiseration.

pciskowski · July 2004

I didn't get an extended warranty, because my experience is that they only cover things that aren't broken, and everything else is "normal wear and tear".

dagpotter · July 2004

I would like to replace my plugs in the P5. I have all the stuff, but is there anything I have to watch out for. I assume I have to unbolt the condenser units on top of the two plugs. Also, what is the gap for the sparkplugs?

Thanks.

iamz · August 2004

Use compressed air to remove any sand or grit prior to removal of plugs. Use a torque wrench when installing new plugs. If you over-tighten them, the threads in the head will strip out and you will spend $2800 for a new head. If you under-tighten them the plug will move up and down and shear off the threads in the head and you will spend $2800 for a new head.

Also, the torque wrench is meaningless if the threads aren't clean and you can never be sure the threads are clean.

Have fun.

dmiller1 · September 2004

Have 2002 Protege5 that has about 36K miles on it. About 2K miles ago it started to make a high pitch squealing noise after being driven for about 15 minutes on county highways, no gravel. When the brakes are applied, the squealing will stop but most times will return when I stop braking. Had the brakes checked all the way around at tire service center and dealer and both agreed brakes are still good. This squeal does not happen all the time, so far about 60% of the time. The noise will oftentimes go away on its own during driving. If the noise is present and then the car is stopped, often it will not return but sometimes does. This is a really annoying problem because it is so unpredictable and it would not make the noise for the dealer tech when he drove it.

We think the noise is coming from the front passenger wheel. Has anybody had a similar problem?

cdnp5 · September 2004

dmiller1 -- Its funny how you bring this up now as we were just talking about this on the regular P5 section. I had this exact issue last year and then found out that it was my rear brakes sticking. I also thought the sound was coming from the front but could never find anything wrong. Then I took my car in for an oil change at the dealer and they said that the one set of rear brake pads were almost gone and the other are on there way out. You might want to get them check the pins in the rear brakes.
Also read the regular P5 section for more info about this.

dmiller1 · September 2004

cdnp5- I think I found the posting you are referring to in the regular p5 section. Just to verify - you heard the squeal during forward driving, i.e. not when the brakes were applied? That is the case with this problem plus when the brakes are applied the squeal goes away while they are applied. Usually the squeal returns but not always.

As for whether it is coming from the front or rear, we too have debated it. Sometimes it sounds like the front and other times we have thought rear. Just seemed like more times it sounded like the front.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

oskwi · September 2004

I had the same exact experience with my 2001 Protege ES. After driving awhile, I would get this sqealing noise coming from the rear passenger side of the car. When the brakes were applied, the sqealing would stop...sometimes it would happen again and sometimes not! I called for a dealership appointment early one week, and on Friday of that same week, I applied the brakes and almost rear-ended someone in a construction zone because the brakes locked up...then the ABS and brake light appeared on the dash and the sqeaking became unbearable! I was the most surprised person to have this happen on bone dry pavement. Anyway, if you actually turned off the car and restarted it, the ABS and brake light would go off and the sqeaking would disappear. Then after about ten or so miles, the sqeak would get remarkably louder and then the ABS and brake light would appear on the dash. (The brakes never locked up again though.) This was the cycle of the sqeaking until I took it in for my service appointment. It ended up being a faulty ABS sensor and was covered under the warranty. Every car I have ever owned with ABS has had at least one of the sensors replaced in the early 30,000 mile range! If your problem is truly an ABS sensor, and you have not had any ABS warning lights appear on your dash, the techs would have a difficult time pinpointing the cause of the squealing. Since my ABS light came on, there was a code stored in the computer...at least that's what I was told. Even though the light would "re-set" itself and not reappear on my dash after startup, the techs were able to see the stored problem code.

Hope this helps with your diagnosis! Good Luck!

cdnp5 · September 2004

dmiller1 -- Basically this is what happened and it only happened twice. Plus it both times I was on the highway, never in the city. Both times it sounded like the front to me even though it was the rear. But it is hard to hear noises while driving as they bounce off everything.
Hopefully you find the source of your problem. But do get them to check the rears as if it goes too long, you will end up having to replace more than the pads.

PF_Flyer · September 2004

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Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

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