Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

erics6 · October 2005

Take it to another mechanic. Check engine light is not connected to brakes. I think the brake light comes on when you are low on brake fluid. Brake pads should last for more than 17K. I'm still on my originals with 61K.

autonomous · October 2005

As erics6 noted Brake pads should last for more than 17K.

Did your mechanic mention the source of the problem? Some dealers point to seized calipers so that you end up driving on your brakes and wearing them prematurely. I had mine lubricated after the second year and they're still going strong (touch wood!). I'd get a second opinion since the cost of replacing all four discs could be pricey.

I'm still on my originals with 61K.
That's terrific!

mdaffron · October 2005

Pads, that is. For the first time.

At 55,000 miles.

Meade

erics6 · October 2005

My front rotors did need resurfacing. :-( Pads are fine though. I think my front rotors are going to have to be replaced when I do the pads.

Two biggest issues I've heard of with the P5 are warped rotors and a hotspot on the clutch. Both issues I've experienced. Overall, a very low maintenance car.

jchandler · October 2005

Sorry, I meant the brake light on my dash comes on. . not my engine light

iamz · October 2005

I see. Thanks Meade. At least someone reads their owners manual. Rather not have it do that though. I'm still left wondering why the AC light does not come on at that setting. Hmmmm. Maybe I should just read the owners manual.

dwryter · October 2005

Eric, can you please describe the symptom and solution/cost of the clutch hotspot?

Thanks.

> Two biggest issues I've heard of with the P5 are warped rotors and a hotspot on the clutch.

maria78 · October 2005

I have had my 02 protege5 since May 2002. I purchased it brand new. 11 months later, after having only put about 15 000 kms on it, I brought it back to the dealership because it was making a strange noise. The dealership came back and told me that the rear calipers had seized, and that all 4 brake pads needed to be changed! After 15 000 kms!!!! I brought to a different mechanic, he managed to salavage the calipers, as well as the front pads, but I had to have new ones put on the rear. The mechanic couldn 't believe the unusual wear on the pads and even asked if I had been driving around with my e-brake on, which I never had.

Since then, I've had to have my front pads changed, and just had to replace my rear ones AGAIN... the rear calipers had seized again... and the rotors were really worn. I priced out new calipers for it, and they're $141 each.

In general, I LOVE my car, but I definitely think that what's happened with my brakes in 3.5 years is quite unusual, and makes me think it's a defect with the car. I'm new the the forum, but am just wondering if anyone has experienced similar problems with their brakes on their P5.

erics6 · October 2005

I've heard of the brake caliper issue before on other forums. Don't know why you would replace the front pads if the problem is on the rear. There was TSB on it.

Symptoms and Conditions Some customers may experience rear brake noise and/or dragging rear brake pads due to the accumulation of rust on the rear brake mounting supports.
Repair Procedure
When you encounter this concern, replace rear brake pads with improved parts and remove rust from caliper supports. The brake pads have been modified to increase the clearance between pads and mounting supports from 0.15-0.80 to 0.30.80. New Part No. BKYT-26-43ZB (Rear Brake Pads with Hardware)

The hotspot on the clutch doesn't fit the cold start clutch chatter in the Mazda service bulletin. Mine only chatters when it is hot or the clutch is being used a lot (like bumper to bumper traffic). Mine's way past warranty, so I'll live with it until it gets too bad to ignore.

pciskowski · October 2005

Both of my local Mazda dealers are charging a $60 diagnostic fee on top of any repairs they do. I have never heard of this before in 25 years of owning cars. Is this something new or a new rip off?

mdaffron · October 2005

Mine charges a diagnostic fee (for some repair jobs), and I can't remember what it is ($60 sounds a little steep), but I've heard it's "refunded" (i.e., not charged) if you go ahead and get the repair done. I guess they do this to keep people from taking up their time "checking" stuff that might not be bad in the first place -- and to keep "tuner" kids from clogging up their service departments getting tests done for the sake of performance add-ons.

Meade

edbunny · November 2005

Yesterday I was driving my new-to-me 2002 P5 and noticed the brake light on the dash was on. I checked the emergency/parking brake, but it was off. When I got to my destination I put the car in park and tried putting the brake on and then off again to see if maybe that would turn the dash brake light off. The light stayed on but I noticed a new WEIRD problem... with the car turned off and no key in the ignition, the parking brake was turning the headlights on and off (if the brake was on, the headlights were on, if the brake was off, so were the headlights). I started the car again and this time no brake light on the dash and the headlight thing stopped happening. When I drove back home though, the brake light on the dash came back on. I can't make the brake work the headlights any more but the brake light on the dash comes on all the time now. It seems to me like there's a wire crossed or something, but it didn't seem to be doing this before. My car is still under the factory warranty for another few months... any chance this sort of thing is covered? Thanks very much for any ideas.

erics6 · November 2005

Check your brake fluid level. Low level will make e-brake light come on. Also, could be e-brake is stuck on... rear e-brake drum or out of adjustment cable? Not sure I understand your description. Do you have daytime running lights?

iamz · November 2005

If the previous owner didn't mess with the wiring, I'm sure your problem will be covered under warranty.

edbunny · November 2005

As a further to my first message, I also found out that the brake light on the dash only comes on when we turn the headlights on... so if we turn on the headlights, the brake light on the dash turns on and if we set the brake, the headlights come on

At least now there's a connection... must be a crossed wire or something.

slippy5 · November 2005

Alloy rims are rusting to hell (going to inquire into that today). Was told by the dealership that I had to get the front brakes and rotors replaced. Is this normal at 48,000 km??

autonomous · November 2005

Brake rotors: 60,000 km (36,000 miles)
Disc Brake calipers/pad: 30,000 km (18,000 miles)
From: Phil Edmonston's Lemon-Aid Used Cars and Minivans 2005 (Toronto : Viking). Well-known author/consumer advocate/media personality. Lists what most automakers consider is reasonable durability, as expressed by their original and goodwill warranties.

Disc brakes: 40,000 km (25,000 miles)
From: Dan Ramsey's The Complete idiot's guide to trouble-free car care.

Resurfacing a rotor is an option; personally I would get new ones at this stage (48K km). My brakes and rotors are still holding up well after 62K km (37K miles).

Are you driving the car hard? Do you live in the snow belt or close to one of the sea coasts?

sandiegoglenn · November 2005

Bought my Protege5 2002 in June and love it. When I acquired it, the driver door panel rattled, the dealer fixed it, and now it's back to rattling again (unless I lean on it with my elbow!) Anyone have this problem who can offer a solution?

ripcord · November 2005

Is it as simple as tightening up the screws that hold the door panel on? There is about 5 for each door and some are hidden behind screw caps. If you need to get inside the door, the interior door handle itself pops off to access more screws, but sometimes needs alot of force to come off. Be careful not to break it.

pciskowski · November 2005

I have the same rattles, and my headliner sqeaks where it meets the gasket around the door opening. Any help with these two issues?

iamz · November 2005

If they are not chrome plated, it is not possible for them to rust. Are they chrome plated?. Chips and nicks in the clear coat might expose the aluminum to oxidation. Waxing will help a little bit but won't last long.

pciskowski · November 2005

Hi,

I just bought a Sirius receiver that needs to have the power cable connected. Any suggestions on where to connect it? I already have a Pioneer head unit that it connects to, but I used a wiring harness for that.

pciskowski · November 2005

Please ignore my last post (which it appears you have). I wasn't thinking it through. Everything is installed and working great.

dejan · December 2005

This was one of the most annoying features of my Protege5 and not too long after I bought it I found the link below to help me "fix" it.

Enjoy

-

Deyan

Disable Automatic A/C

iamz · December 2005

Thanks for the link. Looks like a job to be saved for warmer temps. -2 degrees this morning. Plastics are a little brittle at these temps.

camarillobrill · December 2005

We charge $76 for a diag fee. Thats 1 flat rate hour. If we didnt charge anything for looking at it, people would take their factory diagnosis and either fix it themselves or take it to a pepboys or similar for aftermarket parts. That would not be profitable for us. Sometimes the diag fee is rolled into the repair, sometimes it is not.

kerkovej · December 2005

Here is the problem.
I have a 2002 Protege 5. I have had no problems to date since I bought it. 2 days ago I went out and started the car. Then I noticed the first problem. When I turn the fan switch, I get nothing. No air (hot or cold) will come out of the vents or defrost. What could it be? Any help appreciated.

pciskowski · December 2005

I have started getting a clunking noise from the brakes when I stop after backing up. Any ideas?

pro5moh · December 2005

Have a Question about my Mazda Warranty...

I have a 2003 Pro 5 with around 38K Miles on it..
As i was getting some rear noise from the rear, while iam accelarating(Fades off as i pass 40MPH) - I had a Mazda Dealer check it.

The Dealer comes back and says.. The Left rear Rotor N Bender(Something to do with the suspension) has gone bad and would need a replacement.

When i ask about the warranty he says.. "Only with a Manufacturer's defect, they honor warranty" and he adds that i might have hit a curb or something hard!!###

Is that True? If so, I would never buy a new car Coz of warranty(I mean they can go with some lame cause on all warranty claims).

Thanks!!
Mohan.

autonomous · December 2005

I had a Mazda Dealer check it ... When i ask about the warranty he says.. "Only with a Manufacturer's defect, they honor warranty"
The dealer is treating the rotor problem as a wear and tear rather than manufacturer problem. That's possible but you should check the Technical Service Bulletins to make sure this problem doesn't occur for others. If you did run into a pot-hole, you'd have to pay the bill just as if you drove into a tree.

The Left rear Rotor N Bender(Something to do with the suspension) has gone bad and would need a replacement.
I would get more details and a quote for information. You may want to check the online manual (http://protege5.ugly.net) to take a look at the parts involved. Did anyone else work on the suspension recently and possibly cause damage? You may want to call another Mazda dealer to see if they say something similar.

dezaray · December 2005

This morning i went to use my door opener and it wouldnt open my locks on the front doors but would open the back door locks does anyone have an idea what might have happened.

autonomous · January 2006

my door opener ... wouldnt open my locks on the front doors but would open the back door locks

Likely the locks have frozen due to some condensation. It should clear itself in the spring. For immediate relief you may want to check an auto shop / hardware store for some graphite spray (or second best a silicone spray like WD40) to remove the moisture. Happens to my one of my doors once or twice each winter. All the best for 06!

dezaray · January 2006

thanks i will give it a try, the front drivers side now opens ok its the passenger side thats still being a bugger.

02pro5 · January 2006

I remember that this same problem was posted a while back. It was determined that a wiring harness inside the door came loose and was rattling. To fix it, just remove the door panel and tape the harness down.
Hope this helps.

02pro5 · January 2006

I haven't checked these boards in a long time...
I thought it might have been a bad ground connection. Where exactly is this rusty connection? near the horn on the front of the car?
Also, how did you go about removing the horn to test it? My understanding is that you have to take off the bumper to get at it. I tried to remove just the upper grille, but that didn't work.
Thanks

nic25 · January 2006

Hi, i recently spent over $300 to have my front brake pads replaced & rotors cut after only 28,500 miles on my 03 protege. a few weeks later the brakes make horrible knocking noises...so take to another mazda dealer who informs me that my dealer (Crystal AUto Mall in NJ) used cheap pads (cannot remember the name, but not what should have been used) and did not cut the rotors. Therefore they are now so bad they are warped, causing the noise and may need to be fully replaced after only 31,000 miles!!! I am extreamly angry having had all service done on time. Does anyone know where i can find proof that the dealer must use genuine mazda parts for service? The car is going back and i am refusing to pay for anything...especially new rotors since the damage is the result of their negligence.

erics6 · January 2006

Don't think dealers are required to use OEM parts. Sometimes aftermarkets are actually better. When you say cut, you mean resurfacing the rotors? Sounds like they messed up on resurfacing the rotors, which is actually pretty common.

I'm wondering why the front pads needed replacing at 28k. I still have life left in my originals at 65k. I've had the dealer claim I needed new rotors when my independent mechanic has said they are fine.

Have the dealer resurface them again, and put on new pads. If the rotors are too thin, you'll need to replace them. You should be able to get them to resurface and replace/reuse the pads for free, but you'll have to pay for new rotors if needed. (Maybe you can get them to throw in the labor for free.) Protege rotors are one of the weak points of this car. Lot's of owners have needed new rotors when pads are replaced. Replacing rotors is actually quite common on many new cars. A combination of the pads used and thinner rotors (weight savings).

camarillobrill · January 2006

many proteges and other cars come in needing brake pads before 30k. It all depends how you drive. Highway miles or very slow driving will result in longer pad life. One of my customers was upset when we informed her she needed front pads at 18k.....she said the only person that drives the car is her 17 year old son and he doesnt go very far.....good chance that a 17 year old could be driving with a heavy foot....but maybe not...

erics6 · January 2006

Well... I have a lead foot... and brake foot. Miles are about 50/50 highway/city split. Brakes are still good at 65k. I too have seen plenty of cars that need brakes pre-30k... It certainly is possible. I've also seen an "agressive" replacement schedule suggested by service advisors when the pads still have plenty of life left.

camarillobrill · January 2006

i strictly go by wear and tear..it either needs pads or it doesnt...

erics6 · January 2006

Makes sense to me. I've had dealers give me random numbers in their 20 point (or whatever it is) inspection. One time 20% left, then the next time 40% left. Just depends who's doing the inspection.

camarillobrill · January 2006

lead foot and a brake foot? A lot of people wear out brakes faster when using left for braking and right for gas.....

erics6 · January 2006

So I guess it would be a right lead foot and a right brake foot... or is it feet :-)

Mine's a stick. Auto's can go through brakes faster, although I had a Subaru auto with about 60k on the original pads.

redp5 · January 2006

We found a large amount of water in our 2002 Protege5: about 1" deep around the spare tire & behind the rear wheel wells. Also soaked carpet over the spare tire, and soaked carpet & padding under the passenger side rearseat, a wet passenger side rearseat, and soaked carpet & padding under and in front of the passenger side front seat. We've taken all of the interior trim & seats out to get it to dry. One dealership in the area said they don't deal with water leaks and referred us to a private individual for the diagnosis/fix.

The car has been parked outside & it's been very rainy here the past month. We purchased the vehicle new & it's never been in an accident. Has anyone else had a similar problem? We've heard that the roof rack can have leak problems in these cars. Any thoughts?

cabudde · January 2006

I have the same problem with my 2002 Mazda Protege 5. The front passenger floor is soaked. We cleaned out the drain tubes around the sun roof, like other people suggested, but it is still leaking onto the floor. It drips down the inside of the windshield, down the column between the door and the windshield, and along the column toward the floor. We have discovered that if the car is parked uphill, it doesn't leak.
We also bought the car brand new and it too has never been in an accident. We have the extended warranty, but it does not cover water leaks. Anybody have suggestions?

redp5 · January 2006

I did some investigating today while the car was outside in the rain & all of the trim is out of the car - just sheetmetal exposed now. The entire front (passenger area) of the car is dry. Water is leaking into the hatchback area of the car on the passenger side. Water is collecting along the interior side of the black rubber seal that seals the hatchback opening on the body of the vehicle. From the interior side of this seal margin, water is dripping down the vertical rear wall of the car (below the hatchback latch & to the right of the hatchback latch where 2 pieces of body sheet metal come together). I see two potential sources: a) the rubber seal itself could be faulty (I doubt this though because a large quantity of water is reaccumulating very quickly), or b) water is flowing down the inside of the right hand d-pillar (which we can't see) and into the interior of the car - possible from the roof rack area?
Any thoughts?? Please help, my husband just wants to sell it.

erics6 · January 2006

Water leaks are frustrating. I've never had any issues and I'm in RAINY Oregon. (This month is shaping up to be a 30 year record.) Usually leaks are bad seals, although it could be the roof rack. A good mechanic (or a body shop) should be able to easily figure it out, especially if it is really coming in quickly. Certainly not worth selling the car over though.

aftica · February 2006

Hi all, I have a 2003 P5 with the stock stereo system. At least once a day the FM tuner will lose its lock on a station which has a strong signal and drop out of tune. Example, I normally listen to a station at 92.7 MHZ, out of the blue it will tune itself to 92.5 without any input from me. Hard to replicate the process but it seems to happen when some type of electrical or signal interference is provided, downshifting at an intersection, going through a tunnel etc. Has anyone else come across this.

ripcord · February 2006

I have read that others have the same problem and I am looking for a solution. My 2002 P5 burns out the Silver Star H7 headlight bulbs approximately every 3 months. I bought this vehicle on Labour Day 2005 and I replaced the bulbs with Silver Stars. I have replaced 3 since then (one year warranty on the bulbs). Has anyone determined what caused the bulbs to burn out so often? I have changed many headlights in my lifetime and never had a problem. The bulb doesn't get touched by anything when it is installed. Could it be the Daytime Running Light module? Any solutions would be helpful.

poggensee · February 2006

Question for you guys One of the fog lights on my wifes protégé 5 was just shattered by a rock. How difficult is it to place the lamp (Does the bumper need to be removed) and how much did the part cost?

Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

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