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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • grandadchugrandadchu Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2003 C240, 4matic with 39000 miles. Just took it in for oil change and asked the dealer to check why brakes squeak? Dealer said brake pad is fine, no problem. I also see metal dust on the wheels. What gives? I thought the brakes squeak only when the brake pad is worn out and metal is grinding against metal, in this case the rotor. Other than this the car drove nicely with no mechanical problem.Expert opinions please?!
  • schulhofschulhof Member Posts: 71
    Lots of gripes here. I leased a '06 C230 about four months ago. I have about 2000 miles on it and no problems, no gripes, very satisfied.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,499
    Good to hear.

    Keep us posted, particularly as you pass 50K, 75K & 100K miles.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • dfc3dfc3 Member Posts: 87
    I bought a 2006 C280 6 weeks ago; luxury model. Great ride, handling, no vibrations, very smooth. So far its great.
  • prlprl Member Posts: 10
    I pick up my 2005 C240 4Matic on Wednesday. I'm really excited, I just have one question for everyone out there. i noticed when I test drove the 2006 models some of them made a beeping noise when you locked and unlock the car, and some did not. I asked the sales person if they could do that to my 2005 before I take delivery and he thinks that they can just plug in a computer and set it to do that. Does anyone know about this. Another dealership I called said that this is possible on any post 2000 Mercedes-Benz. I think its pretty dumb that Mercedes makes only the dealer capable of programming this sound. On most cars its in the settings menu.
  • kwhytekwhyte Member Posts: 4
    My CLK 200 2001 outside temperature gauge shows only half the digits. When I went to the garage the informed me it would require a complete new electronic console/computer etc. approx 500 euros. However, when i loaded the rear with suit cases, until everything was squashed tightly. It worked again. This is a fluke I though but no. The next day I loaded it again. Sure enough it worked. Does anyone know what relationship the rear electronics have with a outside meter on the front to the drivers console?
  • bbdcbbdc Member Posts: 1
    Thank you for letting me know that this is such a common problem. I have the same car '01 C320 with the same problems. In fact, I just replaced the battery yesterday after having roadside come out and jump my battery over and over again. In December of last year, the dealership claimed that a faulty seat control module was the cause of the amp draw on the battery. I had it replaced according to their recommendation and of course that doesn't seem to have been the issue b/c I'm still having this same problem. The car is telling me to check the right side marker lamp. My question is, will changing the lamp temporarily fix this problem then?
  • kwhytekwhyte Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for getting back to me. I'm not sure if changing the lamp will fix the problem. the computer on the car doesn't recognize the problem. I don't plan visiting the garage as they seem to be fitters rather than mechanics. However, I may just ask an electrical engineer to check the power from the battery to the clock.
  • bebepbebep Member Posts: 1
    hey all, i am thinking buying a MB C230 sport coupe, however the warrantary will expire in Mar.2007. current mileage: 50K km. is this model relatively reliable, or does it have troublesome electric problems often?

    I am in toronto Canada, and the price of this car is not cheap at all: CAN$22000! if i have to buy extend warrantary to cover those electric problems, i just feel it may be not a good buy...

    appreciated any advice you could have!

    confused MB buyer :confuse:
  • grandadchugrandadchu Member Posts: 6
    I have a follow up on this posting.
    I took the car to the dealer and they inspected the brake pads. The service manager said the brake pads are fine, and the dust I saw on the wheel rim is brake pad dust. Squeals on disc brakes when applied is normal especially because we drive carefully and do not brake hard often enough that the brake did not get hot enough to burn off the surface coating (or something like that?). In order to reduce or remove the squeal noise, I can try drive with brake on for a couple of blocks at slow speed to burn off the surface of the brakes. I guess i have to take the service manager's words for it and as long as the brake pad and rotors are OK, I can perhaps roll up the window and I won't hear the brake squeals.I mean, the car is under warranty, so I don't see any reason why the dealer won't jump into replacing stuffs and getting paid for doing it, right? By the way, I noticed there are a lot of gripes of C-class in this forum. but I guess I am lucky because, (knock on wodd), my 2003 C-240 4matic drove beautifully in snow and off, and had no mechanical or electrical problem until the brake squeals recently and one rear brake light bulb burnt out at 39K miles. The dealer replaced the bulb free promptly with a free car wash. I am happy with my MB--so far!!!! :D
  • benzino5benzino5 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem on my 05 c230 as well. I have the harmon kardon upgrade and my speakers go out anywhere between 1 to 2 days. The dealer can find what's wrong with it either. I'm also having trouble with the airbag light that has come on 3 times. Each time they fix it, it only stays out for about a week and then comes back on. Mercedes service leaves you wishing for something better. I have a lot of other electrical related issues...like windows going up and down...my outdoor thermometer gives insane readings and bulbs appearing to be burnt out and working later on in the day. It seems as if electronics work only when they want to... My friend has the same car and his only has the radio messing up like mine...he has the harmon kardon?? is it only with the upgraded audio??
  • jackel142jackel142 Member Posts: 47
    The main switch pack usually fails. Simple 5 minute replacement of the pack should fix it.
  • jackel142jackel142 Member Posts: 47
    MB brake squeel is a "normal operating condition", the brake pad material used will cause squeeks & squeels. The brake dust on the front wheels is normal, just have to keep them washed.
    Average life on MB pads is anywhere from 15-20k, rotors are usually shot by 30k. If these are orignal at 39k, you are very lucky.
  • jackel142jackel142 Member Posts: 47
    You can turn the chirp feature on or off yourself, just read the owners manual, it will walk you thru the steps.
  • jackel142jackel142 Member Posts: 47
    Brake pads & rotors are normal wear items, and NOT covered under warranty. You might get a dealer to DSA them if the car was under 12/12. MB brakes have squeeled for year, and will contunue to squeel, just the nature of the beast.
  • tornadanotornadano Member Posts: 2
    By switch do you mean the Motor for the front door or the control module? Or is there another switch I am not aware of?

    Thanks,
    Dan
  • majretmajret Member Posts: 1
    Help. Thinking about buying a CPO '05 or '06, but after reading the messages on this site, I'm really reconsidering. My basic question is; has M-B improved the reliability of the electrical system, radio problems and all the other pain in the butt problems in the '05 and '06 models. Also looked like there were some transmission problems in there as well. Love the car, but not sure it's worth all the headaches. I live in New England so thinking the 4Matic would be good. Thanks for any comments.
  • ycamp5ycamp5 Member Posts: 15
    I LOVE my C350 2006. Only 600miles so I'll know more about electrical or maintenance problems later. But no complaints thus far.
    AND I was rear ended after about 10min (yes believe it, 10min of rain in AZ is not good for bad drivers) and there were only 2 scratches barely noticeable in the bumper while the other car had the front hood caved in.

    The brakes do make occasional screeches only when you brake and then gently pull off of the break, no big deal for me.

    As for radio, it works fine EXCEPT for SIRIUS if you get it. SIRIUS is having problems with sending signal to the new cars.

    here's my 2 cents from someone who's satisfied and happy with everything thus far. I was comparing the lexus IS 350 (which is sportier but not as smooth of a ride which was what i was looking for)
  • ronblumeronblume Member Posts: 1
    My power antenna has a mind of it's own. Goes up and down indescriminantly turning the radio off and on. Can this be fixed? Or can I somehow run the antenna to the up position manually and leave it that way?
  • gardeningalexgardeningalex Member Posts: 2
    Hi! i am new to this forum. I just bought a 2000 c230 compressor and I love riding it. It really goes! The only thing about it is the digital displays(speed, temp, mileage)the numbers don't go out just maybe the bottem or the top or the middle parts! What is wrong with it?
  • gardeningalexgardeningalex Member Posts: 2
    The check engine light was on before I bought my 2000 c230 so i had the car dealer fix it. He replaced a $180 fuel regulator. The problem went away for about a week and it still keeps going on. So I bought one of those electronic devices that gives you a code and you can look it up and diagnose it plus it gets rid of the of the check engine light. I fixed all the problems according to what the devise said to fix but the light still stays on. Any suggestions?
  • prlprl Member Posts: 10
    I've had this car for exactly 4 weeks today and I experienced my first problem tonight. :( The car now has about 12K miles and was bought CPO from a dealer. I noticed when I was coming home that in the multifunction display where the radio station/cd track usually appears it said "Please wait" and then after a few minutes "----" appeard. The radio works using the dashboard controls but I could not change the station using the buttons on the steering wheel. I tried turning the car off then on again and still had the problem. Then when I arrived home, I turned off the car and removed the key and the radio remained on. I had to manually push the power button. I called roadside assistance just to see if they had any suggestion. He said that it is most likely an electrical problem with the Head Unit. I will call the dealership tomorrow to make an appointment. Has anyone had this problem?

    Oh also, I'm not sure if this is related but earlier tonight when I was getting gas I turned on the radio while the car was off. I have done this before though and not had any problems.
  • prlprl Member Posts: 10
    Well today the problem fixed itself. I called the dealer and he said that I probably shouldn't bring it in if it was no longer malfunctioning. He said that since everything is like a computer sometimes it gets a glich and sort of "reboots" and fixes itself. I'm not sure if I beleive that, but he said if it reappears to just drop by anytime.
  • tony24tony24 Member Posts: 15
    Hello, you probably still should bring your car to the dealer just in case there are other problems. It is better to be safe than sorry.
  • kwhytekwhyte Member Posts: 4
    Same with my 2001, CLK 200 kompressor. Although it's only the temperature clock which does this. I previously wrote to this forum saying that when I load the trunk/boot up with suitcases etc. I then see the full display of the temp gauge. The dealer told me that it's impossible because the temperature pick uyp is at teh front of the car and nothing to do withe the rear. How wrong he is. Trying wriggling a few wires in and around the trunk area. Once when vacuming the car, that was enough for it to work.
  • soldaustinsoldaustin Member Posts: 91
    I have a 2006 230 Sport and my wife came home this evening and said how do you put the console lid back on. She had someone riding and they said, oh, how do you open the console and said she couldn't do it. My wife pushed her side and the whole lid came off. Well looks like an easy solution. Since each side can open independently of the other, I figured, just push the button and the pins go in and you just put it in place and release the button, then repeat for the other side. Wrong. When I push the button, or rather try neither one will push in. The pins will barely budge what little the button goes in. I tried and tried and gave up. I am taking it to the dealer I guess as I know it has to not be that difficult. So far we have had it 4 months. She backed over my Armada, not a scuff on the Mercedes, took the paint off my front corner bumper. I just got it back yesterday and 185.00 later. Oh, 3 days before it was set to go to the shop, she called me and cut too close and clipped a trailer hitch and put a gouge in the front nose. I had the same body shop to look and said it can be fixed without replacing the front and said it just takes time but guaranteed we wouldn't be able to tell. They are the best shop around so I have confidence, but that is another 575.00. Now the fallen off console. I am ready to put her in a Hyundai!! I should have my head examined for buying her a new Mercedes for her first car and she just started driving. I am learning the hard way. Any suggestions on the console lid that will save me going to the dealer will be appreciated. Just a hassle. The car has 3,700 miles on it is all.
  • speedbag66speedbag66 Member Posts: 1
    I am considering buying an "02" nice looking car but after reading most of these messages i'm thinking the car is not such a good idea. I am a mechanic and can fix most anything but, I don't want to be workin on the thing all the time. The cost for most parts seems real high. I live in Tucson so weather is not a problem unless the heat matters. If anybody's got something good to say i'd sure like to hear it. Dealership wants $17,000 40k miles.
  • greenboxgreenbox Member Posts: 7
    I own a 2001 C240 which I bought new. It will turn 100,000 miles in a few days. My personal opinion is don't do it.

    As you've already noticed the parts are expensive. Also Mercedes purposely designed this car to be difficult to work on. (Even the dealers admt that.) In fact it's even difficult to live with. I don't know about the 2002 C230, but my C240 doesn't even have a dipstick. And changing oil is a real chore. Have you noticed that it uses 8.5 quarts of synthetic oil? Also, the filter element costs $20. And you can't just drain the oil through the plug like a sensible car, unless you happen to own a hoist or other means of getting it off the ground while still keeping it level. The dealers get the oil out with a syphon.

    This is my first (and quite likely last) Mercedes. My previous cars have been six Nissans and a much-loved Opel Sport Coupe. The Mercedes has spent more time in the shop per mile on the road than any of them. The bells and whistles have a mind of their own and have defeated multiple attempts by multiple dealerships to get them to behave as intended.

    The car handles beautifully and is a pleasure to drive so it's a great pity that it's otherwise more trouble than it's worth. Mercedes likes to boast that their vehicles are "designed like no other car in the world." I say "Thank Heaven!"
  • tizertizer Member Posts: 23
    from reading these posts. My 2001 C240 (purchased new) has 90,000 miles. A few minor annoying dealer trips when under warranty. Front indicators malfunctioned. Rear Sun shade motor noise, cup holder jammed. Front bushings "knocking" and rear suspension went "soft". Out of warranty all I have had is a check engine light that needed a new air flow meter to fix.

    Other than above and one set of brakes and two sets of tires car has been very reliable and has never left me stranded. Still rides and handles like new. No rattles or squeeks. No electrical gremlins. Car is still quiet and solid. Would I buy another MB? My biggest concern is reputation. I have certainly heard my share of other peoples nightmares with these cars. If I were to get another C I would want to wait it out for completely new MY 08. And then not buy the first month or two.
  • tmuller2tmuller2 Member Posts: 2
    Little more than a month a ago, I took my car in for the Nth time regarding a headlight. While I was there I mentioned that periodically I would get an indication that the 3rd brake light is out. Yet, turning the car off would usually make it go away. That was strange. Well, the dealership couldn't address that issue because it wasn't acting up at that moment. So, new headlight and off I go. After pulling off the lot, it wasn't a few hundred yards and that indication returned about the 3rd break light. Overcome with frustration, all I could do is laugh and say just my f* luck. I wasn't overly concerned because it usually goes away. I arrived back at the office, worked a bit, then left for the day. Then I got an indication Left Break Light out. I was then pissed. It was really out, and this problem was not going away. Two days later the other break light went out. WTF. I spoke with the head of MB service and asked why do my lamps always malfunction. His first reply was that(after seeing how long my service record was) they had just been replacing bulbs and that they had done a poor job of handling my problem, and the lack of coordination caused them not to look deeper than just a bulb issue. He advised I bring the car in, and that they would meticulously test and check all modules and harnesses after I insisted that there is a short somewhere. So, Then I asked if he might have suspecions about the cause, and he replied it maybe a multiple things, that his men would have to check it out. My reply "so you have no idea?" "Have you not seen this issue before?" "You're telling me I am the only one having this problem?" Are other owners having this problem?" Dropping the "BS satisfy the customer tone" he told me that there have been significant number of 01C-class owners with the same problem. To answer your question after that longwinded diatribe, changing the bulbs most always fixes the lamp malfunction. BUT, something about those modules and harnesses cause the bulbs to blow incessantly. My opinion. I had that battery drain issue, it was a faulty module in the rear bumber area of the car. took weeks for them to diagnose it. So you are still having the battery Drain? It could be any of the modules that are faulty. They don't go to sleep when the car is turned off which drains the battery and possibly overload other cicuits in the car since the charge being drawn from the battery is not legitamely needed and used.
  • ashwinmkashwinmk Member Posts: 3
    Hello,
    I have a 2001 C240 (50K)and recently in the past 4 months I noticed the following problem:
    - The first time: I got out of my driveway and stepped on the gas, The car some how stalled and I got a check engine light- The dealer checked it and said that the Cylinder # 1 has misfired and they swaped coils( what are coils ?) and reset it.. So the check engine went away but the shuddering continued.

    Since then I have had 3 occassions when, when I slow down at stop sign (typically after I have just started in the last 5 minutes) The car kind of struggles and shudders- shakes - as if the engine is shaking. When I press hard on brake to stop the car completely - The shaking stops and then It is fine...
    Any ideas on what could be causing this. It feels like when the car downshifts to 1st, it struggles until it comes to a halt.

    Thanks

    -A
  • jamiem4jamiem4 Member Posts: 23
    We recently purchased a basic C-230 (not Kompressor). After approximately 5,000 miles we noticed blue smoke from the exhaust upon ignition. We also realized from then on our car runs similarly to a diesel truck, a freight train (including all the vibrations), or dirtbike. We only use the most premium Shell or Amaco gasoline, and even purchase the highest grade fuel from varying gas stations to make sure an additive, etc isn’t contributing to the rumbling and smoke. The Leith Raleigh service department told us a variety of excuses for the problem ranging from the ‘head gaskets’ aren’t sealed the first 10k miles…to the blue smoke is really ‘steam’ coming out of the exhaust after the car sits all night. They also warned us against using Shell gasoline (which we don’t anyway). We are just wondering if anyone else has had this experience and what the possible REAL causes might be. Please help!!! Thanks!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well the head gasket explanation is nonsense but if the smoke is WHITE it could very well be condensation that is burning off into steam.

    But if the smoke is actually BLUE, and lingers in the air (steam disappears instantly), then it's oil that is being burned and you have a problem.

    If the smoke is BLUE and if it goes away AFTER a few minutes, I would guess you have defective valve stem seals--which is not a big deal to fix. If the smoke is BLUE and persists all day long, that could be a serious internal engine problem for such a new car.
  • tiredofittiredofit Member Posts: 1
    AGH! Are we all having the same problems? This evening my key fob wouldn't work and I had to use the little metal key to open the doors. Then I couldn't start the car. When I hooked the battery charger up the battery was D-E-A-D. Problem is, I just put in a new battery. Also, having a problem with the instrument panel - shows an error for the left fog lamp - which works!!!. The light on the instrument panel stays on 24/7. Is this causing the battery drain????? So what is the solution and about how much does it cost to fix?
    Thanks....
  • renyreny Member Posts: 4
    Don't worry be scared when you go to the dealer and they try to rip you off. I went through the same problem but my light in the instrument dash would not stay on,I tryed every thing but the way to handel theses problem is to pay the least $1000.00 or more because I paid at least $2500.00 and I'm still trying to fix the other problems I have because every day it seems like something new is going wrong and 90% of it is eletric problems. Right now my keys won't start the car but it will do every thing eles I had it towed to the dealer in White Plains and gave me a bunch of crap so I have towed back and now it on a tow truck getting ready to go to Manhattan fist thing in the morning,I called Manhattan dealer and all they say is they have to reprogram the key and thats all. I had this problem before but I thought going to White Plains will get my car back faster guess I thought wrong. ANYONE EVEN THINKING OF BUYING A C-CLASS YOU ARE GOING TO REGRET IT I PROMISE YOU AND THE ONLY REASON I STILL HAVE MY CAR IS I OWE THE BANK MORE THAN WHATS THE CAR WORTH. BUY A HONDA,TOYOTA OR NISSAN.
  • vivid1vivid1 Member Posts: 24
    I have had my 04 240 4matic for 2 years now. I have had no problems what so ever. For the few people on here that have had issues, there are Thousands out there that have had no issues at all. When you have issues with a car, any car, you will tendency is to make a big deal out of it. When there is no issues at all, that owner usually will not talk about it. WEll, I am posting. Great car, Zero problems.

    I will buy another one when the time comes.

    Peace.
  • mezecamezeca Member Posts: 66
    Actaully, these cars are quite user friendly. Although it doesn't use a dipstick, you can check the oil level in the instrument cluster. Also, this car has a drain plug on the bottom of the engine(as do all MB's), but I guess you didn't bother to look.
    I would like to know how you change the oil in your Nissans. Most Japanese cars have the oil filter buried on the side of engine block usually towards the firewall side and under the exhaust of intake manifolds. So without lifting the car with at least a floor jack, I don't know how you are able to work on it. At least Mercedes puts most of their oil filters on top of the engine where they are easier to access.
  • renyreny Member Posts: 4
    I kind of had the same problem and I took it to the dealer and they replace the fuse box located in the trunk. They also replaced my battery and done some minor work on my car it should cost you somewhere about $400.00.
  • dks94583dks94583 Member Posts: 4
    Hi, Front right head lamp (bixenon) on my 2005 C320 was flickering and I took it to dealer. I thought it might be a loose connection. I got the car back with a feeling that it has been replaced. Now its not as bright and white as the orig one or the one on the left side. Its throwing slight yellowish light but it doesn't look like a halogen lamp. Any idea if they replaced it with a cheaper one or it might just be a defective lamp? There is a marked difference in light from the two front headlamps. Thanks
  • junkyardcatjunkyardcat Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem about six months ago. Turned out to be the modules in both the drivers and the passenger seats. I was lucky and under an extended warranty so don't know the cost but probably about five hundred a seat. It is frustrating but once the defective modules were replaced I have had no trouble. Good Luck.
  • zoocosmozoocosmo Member Posts: 13
    I am almost out of my Certified Pre-Owned warranty and am trying to decide if it is worth keeping. My wife and I have taken it in for warranty issues 3 times this year alone. Twice for the moonroof and once for the oxygen sensor. Have any of you had the same vehicle past warranty and not regretted it?
  • shankyshanky Member Posts: 36
    Good to know!

    My 2006 C-350 is at 18k miles now, and simply going great...there was one minor scare regarding fuel level sensor which had to be replaced.

    No other issue to report...it is a solid car, and feels super!

    It is obvious that no one can beat the Japanese in reliability, but that was not the only criteria I had when I purchased the C ! Other things matter too!
  • jjpeterjjpeter Member Posts: 230
    zoocosmo, we have an 02 C230 that came out of warrenty last October. We purchased the extended warrenty and I'll test out its coverage in a few weeks.

    Under warranty we had the entire heater core replaced (smelled very moldy while first starting up the A/C). Also the OX sensor had to be replaced.

    Now we have several things going on:

    -the electric seats won't back up when exiting the vehicle anymore. So, my wife who's quite short leaves the seat up against the wheel so I have to press the preset button on the door panel in order to get the seat to back up so I can sit in the car.

    -one of the front turn signal bulbs went out. I removed it to look at it, and it looked OK, filament still in tact, no sign of flame out. Just to check, I removed the other working bulb, put it in place of the bad one, and now BOTH lights don't work. And of course one has to look at this warning notice on the dash everytime you use the car. So, I went out and bought two new bulbs, put them in, and they still don't work. Frustrated!

    On my last dealership visit, they charged me $45 to change a bad rear turn signal bulb. So I fully expect them to charge me $90 to fix the front bulbs, even though they are now new bulbs (1152A's)

    My .02
  • zoocosmozoocosmo Member Posts: 13
    I also had the front turn signal go out under MFG warranty. I also did the switching out of bulbs. In the end that had to re-wire it. I don't know if I can justify paying Benz maintenance all of the time. I should have leased for 4 yrs and now I would be getting into a new one. Thanks JJPeter
  • jjpeterjjpeter Member Posts: 230
    What do you mean, "In the end that had to re-wire it." ?

    The dealership had to rewire something just because a bulb burned out??? That's insane!
  • vivid1vivid1 Member Posts: 24
    The dealer didnt "rewire" anything. It was probably a defective dongle/clip. They are like 59 cents each.

    Seriously people, most of this stuff is NOT HARD to fix at all. If you want a car that will never break and nothing ever go wrong, go buy a bicycle. No matter what car you buy, you will have some sort of issue at one time or another.

    Go register on a Mercedes forum. Search for your problem and you might find an easy solution AND you might actually like working on your car. Driving a car is more than just stepping on the gas.
  • zoocosmozoocosmo Member Posts: 13
    Sorry vivid,

    I do not own a pair of coveralls and I am not going out anytime soon to buy some. I actually work 6 days a week at present and know that I will not give up my one day off so that I can work on my car. And yes they did re-wire the blinker (per MB service adviser). I actually did test the wire as far as I could with a voltage indicator and there was no current running through the line. I think that I will end up selling this mechanics fixer-upper and get myself a Camry Hybrid.
  • jjpeterjjpeter Member Posts: 230
    I have a garage full of tools and have worked on cars most of my life. However, I've NEVER seen a system fail because of changing a couple of bulbs. That is a manufacturing defect or worst, an easy owner fix, rigged to fail unless you have some eloborate, dealer only setup.

    I've owned VW's, Nissans, Fords, Hyundai's, Geo's, Mazda's and this one MB C230. The C230 seems to be a money sponge once it hits the out of warranty mark. If doing even the most rudimentary repairs requires an expensive trip to the dealership, I'd offer this word of warning to anyone considering purchasing a benz.

    Get ready to pay a premium for maintaining it.
  • tony24tony24 Member Posts: 15
    If you are able to please do not keep this car you will regret it in the long term. I own a C240 and I've had to pay a lot for repairs.
  • zoocosmozoocosmo Member Posts: 13
    OK,

    I think I have read enough to know that I will need to sell and purchase something different. Funny thing is that I am a car salesman for Toyota. Toyota is a great vehicle but I just wish that they had TRUE employee pricing like the domestics. Bang for the buck I am going to go with that Hybrid Camry. It's not the most luxurious of the line-up but I think that a good responsible vehicle with everything my wife and I need.

    Thank you for the answers and will let you know how my sale goes.
This discussion has been closed.