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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair
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Permit a non-Mercedes owner a couple routine service observations. Whoever at Daimler-Benz made the decision to delete dipsticks on Mercedes automobile engines should be incarcerated as a criminally insane felon. I understand there's an oil level dash display. In reading several pages of these posts, I also understand Mercedes electronics have been known to behave less than reliably... Like Ronald Reagan said during negotiations over nuclear disarmament, "Trust, but verify." (I'm also aware that the average motorist these days wouldn't be caught dead pulling a dipstick to measure the level of oil in the sump - and that includes Toyota, Honda, Hyundai, and Yugo owners, too... Still, that's no excuse to justify deleting a proven device to check on the health of a fine motor.) 8.5 quarts of 229.5 full synthetic motor oil and a $20.00 oil filter is a pricey proposition, alright, but remember the oil change intervals on these engines is 13,000 miles (10,000 miles for AMG hotties). That $20.00 synthetic polyester fleece media oil filter is designed to trap particulates down to five microns. Most commercial automotive oil filters do good to filter some particulates down to the 15 micron level - and at that are only expected to remain in service for 7,500 miles under normal operating conditions. The new Hyundai lambda V6 motors have that interval and their new top-mounted, conventional paper media oil filter cartridges are often sold by dealership parts departments for $15.00 - $18.00 each. $20.00 for a filter that can filter smaller abrasives, and for nearly twice as long, suddenly doesn't seem too far out of line, does it? True - Hyundai's motor doesn't take 8.5 quarts. It merely takes a miserly 7 quarts give or take a couple of tenths. Finally, I'm not aware of a car made that changing the oil isn't made an easy job of with a $30.00 set of drive-up "Rhino Ramps" from WalMart. For those who would rather not crawl under their Mercedes cars to drain motor oil, do a search of oil "extractors" - essentially a cigarette lighter powered pump that has a long, thin tube inserted wherever dealership personnel insert their own extractor-like equipment to draw the crankcase oil out with. These home versions often sell for under $30.00 and virtually elliminate mess. (about the same cost as a set of Rhino Ramps - which won't be needed when an extractor is used) Once powered, they'll empty the sump in about a minute and a half - and at that better than gravity draining through the oil pan's drain plug hole. Using a common 3-gallon plastic gasoline container will safely hold all the old oil for delivery to any autoparts store that sells motor oil. (They have to accept used motor oil by federal law. The cost of unit motor oil already includes the disposal fee.) Top-mounted oil filters are also mess-free compared to screw-on/screw-off/screw-up oil filters - just have an empty can ready to catch the drips as you lift the old cartridge free of its housing. Doing your own oil and oil filter service is not rocket science, and it carries with it the satisfaction of knowing it was done right and what went into your engine's sump. (Do any of you think Mercedes dealership service department managers put their best techs on the mundane stuff such as oil changes? Really?)
By the way, my service manager (who is privately as disgusted with the current crop of c-Classes as I am) tells me that the C-Classes sold in Europe have dipsticks but MB has decided that Americans prefer bells and whistles. As I said in one of my (unanswered) letters to the president of MB-USA "If my $12,000 Nissan Sentra can have a dipstick why can't my $30,000 C-240 have one? A dipstick never breaks down and never gives a false reading." If I'd known that there was no dipstick before I bought this car I wouldn't have bought it. And you can believe me that changing the oil is only the tip of the iceburg when it comes to C-240 problems.
But you're completely wrong about Nissans. The oil plug is right at the bottom of the pan where it belongs. I owned 1987 and 1989 Nissans that I could do the whole oil change without even putting them on ramps. Newer Nissans have the fuel injectors over the oil filter one has to put the car on ramps to get at the filter but the plug is easy to get at.
And yes, I have 132k + on my 97 c280, and 25k on my 04 c230. When the I change the oil on my c230, it is as simple as my c280. But, one must remember, that synthetic oil expands when it heats up, unlike conventional oil, so to properly and accurately check the oil level, the engine must be hot.
So are you trying to imply that MB purposely tightened the drain plug so tight so you couldn't service it. Has the car ever been to Jiffy Lube(or similar)? Those guys are famous for overtightening drain plugs. Also, I don't what "valleys" you're referring to but they don't exist in the oil pan to stop oil from leaving it.
Also, it's not the drain plug on the Japanese cars that is hard to get to, it's the filter. The 89 Accord had it buried under the intake manifold, as do many other cars.
The reason for no dipstick is because your fellow americans were a focus group for MB and said they they like bells and whistles more than having a dip stick. So MB listened to them and used an electronic way of measuring the oil. It is reliable but don't blame MB. They were listening to their American customers and gave them what they wanted.
thanks
As for the valleys, my sympathetic service manager told about them when I first talked about changing the oil myself. When I put the car up on ramps and removed the shrouding under the engine compartment I could see what he meant. The center of the oil pan is lower than the edges of the oil reservoir. When the car is at an angle some of the oil would be trapped in a "valley" and not drain completely. Have you actually measured how much oil you get out when you drain yours? There's supposed to be 8.5 quarts in there and it doesn't all fit in that little pan. That's where the reservoir comes in.
Back to the original question of whether the C240 is worth it, mine just spent 9 days in the dealership while they tracked down a problem with the fuel pump. They replaced the pump and a practically new fuel filter that they'd installed only a few months ago. The car drove fine... for 41 miles. Then it stopped dead and had to be towed back to the dealership. Shows all the symptoms of fuel pump failure, but it's Friday night and I won't know till Monday.
I've spent almost $5000 on repairs for this car since it came out of warranty and there was plenty of repair work done under the warranty. That's to say nothing of the time I've spent in the waiting rooms of six dealerships in five states. Is it worth it? Not bloody likely!
Thanks for any response.
Pity.
At the time of my last post, when the car had been towed back to the service department that it had left 41 miles earlier, I was just leaving on a 4-week road trip. I had to go in my 1996 Nissan Sentra XE, which hadn't even been prepped for the trip and had 130,000 miles on it. It ran like a trouper for the whole 5,000 mile trip.
Meanwhile, what was wrong with the Mercedes? It was out of gas! But the gauge said I had 1/3 tank! Part of the work they'd done on the previous trip to the service department was to replace the fuel sensor because (while diagnosing the fuel pump problem) they had discovered it was slightly faulty. They replaced it with a new one that was TOTALLY faulty! That's the second time that a new Mercedes part installed by a dealership turned out to be faulty.
It is indeed a pity that Mercedes seems determined to ruin an excellent 100-year reputation.
So far the weird noice comes only on startup if it is not used for more than a day or 2 ,
please advice , should I get rid of it ?
Thanks in advance
MB USA was TOTALLY impossible to talk to & arogant. They would NOT return phone calls that requested warranty coverage for the harness & eventually I received a curt "FOAD" letter from a person @ MB USA that didn't even include a last name!
In short, I "traded" (i.e. gave away) the C Class for a great Lexus I250 last week. When my old 240D eventually is replaced, it will be a Lexus, or Acura, or (possibly) a BMW; but NOT another MB!
Avoid the three pointed star (it is a disguised Chrysler!).
Cybersheep
The manual says to disconnect the ground wire first and then the positive wire. Did you do that. Connect it visa versa.
I'm hoping you can help me out since I'm not sure whats going on with my 2001 C240. I have not drove my car in the past 6 weeks and was planning on taking it out this weekend. I jumped in, turned the key and nothing ... car would not crank over. The lights on the dash lite up but the engine would not turn over. I was thinking I might have a bad battery from sitting, so I place a battery charger on the car overnight. Came back the next day and the same thing, lights on the dash but engine will not turn over. I placed the charger on the battery for another 24 hours. Still nothing. Now I'm thinking it might not be the battery but something else. I noticed that I cannot put the car in Neutral or just get it out of Park. Is there something that I might be overlooking? I've tried both of my key fobs. Let me know your thoughts. Someone had mentioned a faulty brake switch, could that be right? Thanks!
See if you can get a direct jump start from someone or a battery booster thing-a-majig and if that doesn't work, then start looking at the complicated stuff.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Since I am way over the warranty period I decided to troubleshoot myself. My plan was to remove fuses one at a time until the problem went away. The problem with that is that a single fuse on this car controls many different functions. While I was thinking about what to do next I noticed a very subtle hum coming from somewhere in the car. I tracked it down to the vent hole on the front dome light and sunroof control unit. There is a small cooling motor in there that runs constantly even when the vehicle is turned off. I removed the entire unit and the car started fine the next morning. Upon inspection of this part, I found that the fan has a small sensor that causes it to turn off and on. I am going to clean it up from all the dust and reinstall. If this does not resolve the issue, I found a complete replacement unit on Ebay for $299.99. the part number is A203820-1401.
So if your C-Class battery is draining, this gives you one more thing to check before spending thousands with the dealer.
Replacing the battery will take you a few minutes but can be accomplished by yourself. You will need a 8 - 12" extenstion for your socket set to remove the plate that holds the battery at the bottom (right side). Here are the steps that I used.
1. Remove the interior air filter that sits above battery. To remove unfasten the three top clips. Unit can be remove in a upward motion.
2. Remove ground wire from battery terminal (left side)
3. Remove orange cap covering positive battery terminal
4. Remove positive battery terminal
5. Need to loosen up nuts that hold bottom battery plate (plate is located at the bottom, right side of battery)
6. Loosen each nut. One is located at the front right the other rear right. You will need an extension on your socket set to be able to reach them. take your time, not much space to get at these nuts.
7. Remove battery by hanges. Be careful, battery is heavy and not in a very easy manageable position. Lift straight up.
8. Place new battery in. Keep in mind to attach positive terminal first then ground.
It's the program that keeps your car on the road if you're oversteering or understeering. Traction control is also built into that program. So when you step on the gas too hard it limits wheelspin.
There is a button on the dash right where the power lock button/rear headrest buttons are located.
You might be able to switch it off but then you won't have that safety of ESP or Traction Control.
Don't know what the cause might be, maybe it's just reprogramming a computer.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
P1630-016 - Autorisation de conduite. le calculateur autorisation de conduite ne repond pas.
P1470-016 - Regulation de la pression de suralimentacion Ecart de regulation positif[la pression de suralimentacion es trop basse]
its in french but its easy to understand...
french mercedes say that probably is the vacum pipes need to be replaced i think!!!!
they say (in french):
"mecedes me dit que ce sont probablement les catalyseurs qui commencent à se boucher "
probably the catalysts which start to be stopped
can someone give-me a clue of whats is wrong wiht the car???? and if its to expensive to repair???
thx in avanced
mario
Rather than a simple spring which rubs against the rotor to signal to the driver that the pads are worn out, M-B used a needlessly complex electrical system. There is a sensor installed to the inside pad. It has two wires, so there are 8 wires and all of the associated mounting hardware and so forth to accomplish the same thing GM and Ford do with little pieces of steel attached to one pad at each wheel.
I really could say that I am trying to change the brake pads today, as the left front wheel is firmly rusted to the rotor. I have soaked it with pentrating oil. For now, putting the weight of the car on it, or kicking the tire has no effect. I have never seen such a thing before, so hope the penetrating oil works. Has anyone else had the same problem?
To my surprise, I discovered that there is not a wear sensor on the left front brake. I wonder if they switched the sensor to the left side on the right hand drive versions? Whatever, the simple little spring clip which rubs againist the rotor on GM and Ford vehicles is present on at four wheels, making it even better.
The only other problems with the car have been a transmission leak where the wires enter the transmission, a problem which was also common on the Chrysler which use the same transmission design, and sort sort of loose wire under the hood. Of course both were fixed under warranty.
One almost humorous, though not at the time, event involved the dealer here. My wife took the car for the routine oil change and service, but after returning the loner car, they could not find the car! After about two hours they found it on the lot, and returned it filthy dirty. It was clean when we left it, but they said that they could not clean it,as the car was was closed - it seems they do not have a bucket, soap, and rags.
You probably know that the error codes don't tell you the exact problem...they only indicate the area affected. So really the codes could be quite misleading. Mechanics often replace the wrong components because they don't diagnose more deeply.
Might be as simple as EGR, rich mixture due to bad sensor, blah blah. Someone's got to dig deeper.
Doesn't sound disastrous though.
Does anyone think it might be the fuse (which is located in a compartment on the left side of the dashboard)? Should I first try changing the fuse, and then the motor?
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
I just had it in the shop for an oil change and alignment job. I was told that the transmission electrical plug was leaking, so I had that fixed as well. I was also told that I need new front brake pads (already had them replaced at about 45,000mi) and rotor and rear brake pads @ $600. After the alignment, they noticed that the control arm bushings are loose, and may need to be replaced in the near future @ $545.
I have had the ESP code ("ELEC. STABIL. PROG. Visit Workshop! ESP") come up and go a number of times this winter. I just figured snow accumulated on the sensor, and then melted. The ESP warning light came on while at the shop, and the tech noticed many error codes in the computer, which he cleared. My service writer says that the computer may be going, since there were many codes that needed to be cleared. So, I may have to be replacing that in the near future. I don't know how much that is going to cost...
Should I keep the car (I do love it and it's almost paid-off) or get something else, since I would like to get a bigger car or SUV now that the kids are getting bigger.
Thanks!
Although it's hard to predict what the future holds for your car, imagine you fast forward about 13000 miles and here's what might happen, or at least it's happening on my car:
Power steering pump leaking, about $1000cdn to fix it, probably much cheaper in US
Need brakes as well,
Spark plugs need to be changed every 100k miles (previous owner changed them early on mine, so I don't have to worry), but there's two spark plugs per cylinder, so that could cost a bit as there's 12 total.
Having problems starting recently. Engine cranks over but does not start sometimes. Could be fuel pump, or crank position sensor, or the starter, goota get it checked next week.
Other than that I have some minor electrical gremlins that keep popping up but don't affect the car's drivability or operation.
I love my Benz too, but it's a little frustrating sometimes with the shabby reliability.
If you pay it off, put aside about $2000 a year for maintenance and repairs just to be safe.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Thank you,
Sam White
Thanks again....
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
I have 32k miles on a 04 240 and have not needed pads yet.