Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair

vivid1 · October 2006

I don't own any coveralls either. But with a little reading on the internet, this car is easy. Also, you work as a salesman for Toyota, but you have to BUY a CAR??? They dont let you use a car??? You are getting screwed. 6 day work weeks and you have to buy a car? Wow...

flyback · October 2006

Hi,the rear lights inc. licence plate lamps come on and remain on while the ignition is switched on. It was only when bulbs kept blowing repeatedly that I discovered the problem. Any ideas as to what is causing the this to happen ?

zoocosmo · October 2006

Go Figure! I have been in the car biz for 5 months and they won't even give me a demo. Actually, now that I think of it my manager doesn't even have a demo. In reality the car business isn't the same as it was a few years back. Now that consumers have access to dealer costs and pricing huge profits have vanished. The car business has a bad rep. that is hopefully getting better. Maybe in the future I will get that demo but probably not.

bevbran · October 2006

Count me among the folks who LOVE my '04 C240. Very reliable. Minor issues only--(yes, had to have my PhD cousin figure out how to get the console lid back on on...:-). 4 Matic outstanding performance. I'll be buying another MB shortly.

Kirstie_H · October 2006

A reporter from a large daily newspaper is looking to speak to Mercedes-Benz owners in the Washington DC area about the expectations you have with the car when you purchase it and any problems youve had to deal with. Please provide your daytime contact info to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Monday, October 16, 2006.

vivid1 · October 2006

Sure, you can contact me. I have had no issues at all. I had a Nissan before this and it was in the shop more than I drove it.

ray_h1 · October 2006

)) "...my C240 doesn't even have a dipstick. And changing oil is a real chore. Have you noticed that it uses 8.5 quarts of synthetic oil? Also, the filter element costs $20. And you can't just drain the oil through the plug like a sensible car, unless you happen to own a hoist or other means of getting it off the ground while still keeping it level..." ((

Permit a non-Mercedes owner a couple routine service observations. Whoever at Daimler-Benz made the decision to delete dipsticks on Mercedes automobile engines should be incarcerated as a criminally insane felon. I understand there's an oil level dash display. In reading several pages of these posts, I also understand Mercedes electronics have been known to behave less than reliably... Like Ronald Reagan said during negotiations over nuclear disarmament, "Trust, but verify." (I'm also aware that the average motorist these days wouldn't be caught dead pulling a dipstick to measure the level of oil in the sump - and that includes Toyota, Honda, Hyundai, and Yugo owners, too... Still, that's no excuse to justify deleting a proven device to check on the health of a fine motor.) 8.5 quarts of 229.5 full synthetic motor oil and a $20.00 oil filter is a pricey proposition, alright, but remember the oil change intervals on these engines is 13,000 miles (10,000 miles for AMG hotties). That $20.00 synthetic polyester fleece media oil filter is designed to trap particulates down to five microns. Most commercial automotive oil filters do good to filter some particulates down to the 15 micron level - and at that are only expected to remain in service for 7,500 miles under normal operating conditions. The new Hyundai lambda V6 motors have that interval and their new top-mounted, conventional paper media oil filter cartridges are often sold by dealership parts departments for $15.00 - $18.00 each. $20.00 for a filter that can filter smaller abrasives, and for nearly twice as long, suddenly doesn't seem too far out of line, does it? True - Hyundai's motor doesn't take 8.5 quarts. It merely takes a miserly 7 quarts give or take a couple of tenths. Finally, I'm not aware of a car made that changing the oil isn't made an easy job of with a $30.00 set of drive-up "Rhino Ramps" from WalMart. For those who would rather not crawl under their Mercedes cars to drain motor oil, do a search of oil "extractors" - essentially a cigarette lighter powered pump that has a long, thin tube inserted wherever dealership personnel insert their own extractor-like equipment to draw the crankcase oil out with. These home versions often sell for under $30.00 and virtually elliminate mess. (about the same cost as a set of Rhino Ramps - which won't be needed when an extractor is used) Once powered, they'll empty the sump in about a minute and a half - and at that better than gravity draining through the oil pan's drain plug hole. Using a common 3-gallon plastic gasoline container will safely hold all the old oil for delivery to any autoparts store that sells motor oil. (They have to accept used motor oil by federal law. The cost of unit motor oil already includes the disposal fee.) Top-mounted oil filters are also mess-free compared to screw-on/screw-off/screw-up oil filters - just have an empty can ready to catch the drips as you lift the old cartridge free of its housing. Doing your own oil and oil filter service is not rocket science, and it carries with it the satisfaction of knowing it was done right and what went into your engine's sump. (Do any of you think Mercedes dealership service department managers put their best techs on the mundane stuff such as oil changes? Really?)

greenbox · October 2006

As you say, you're a non-owner. One can't drain the oil through the plug on a C-240 by putting it up on ramps. It has to be level in order for it to drain properly. Putting it on ramps creates valleys in the oil pan. I had the idea of jacking it up with a floor jack, pulling the plug and draining what I could then letting it back down to drain the rest and jacking it up again to replace the plug. Of course one has to remove two "plastic" panels under the engine compartment to even get at the plug. However I couldn't budge the plug even after spraying it with WD-40, squirting it with Liquid Wrench and putting an 18 inch extension on my wrench handle. So I bough a Topsider... a syphon used for marine engines. This works but it takes about an hour to get the whole 8.5 quarts out and one has to measure the used oil to make sure one gets it all. As you say, one gets the satisfaction of knowing it was done REASONABLY right because the last oil change I had at a dealership under the free service period they shorted me a quart of oil. It was hard to determine that they'd done this as the electronic oil-readout was undecided between "Oil OK" and "Add 1 Quart." MB electronics are famously inaccurate so I couldn't be sure if I really should add one quart and didn't want to put in too much. I had to go to another dealership which probably used a generic dipstick to determine that I was short one quart. They generously provided the missing quart for free but it took me half a day to deal with the situation and I had to drive around for over 1000 miles before I could get to a dealership wondering if I had too little oil.

By the way, my service manager (who is privately as disgusted with the current crop of c-Classes as I am) tells me that the C-Classes sold in Europe have dipsticks but MB has decided that Americans prefer bells and whistles. As I said in one of my (unanswered) letters to the president of MB-USA "If my $12,000 Nissan Sentra can have a dipstick why can't my $30,000 C-240 have one? A dipstick never breaks down and never gives a false reading." If I'd known that there was no dipstick before I bought this car I wouldn't have bought it. And you can believe me that changing the oil is only the tip of the iceburg when it comes to C-240 problems.

greenbox · October 2006

Yes, I know about the electronic oil check in the instrument cluster. If you've owned your MB very long you'll know that the electronic read-outs are notoriously unreliable. And yes, I know about the plug. Please read my post #622 for my adventures in that area.

But you're completely wrong about Nissans. The oil plug is right at the bottom of the pan where it belongs. I owned 1987 and 1989 Nissans that I could do the whole oil change without even putting them on ramps. Newer Nissans have the fuel injectors over the oil filter one has to put the car on ramps to get at the filter but the plug is easy to get at.

mezeca · October 2006

Actually, the electronic oil level sensor is very reliable.
And yes, I have 132k + on my 97 c280, and 25k on my 04 c230. When the I change the oil on my c230, it is as simple as my c280. But, one must remember, that synthetic oil expands when it heats up, unlike conventional oil, so to properly and accurately check the oil level, the engine must be hot.

So are you trying to imply that MB purposely tightened the drain plug so tight so you couldn't service it. Has the car ever been to Jiffy Lube(or similar)? Those guys are famous for overtightening drain plugs. Also, I don't what "valleys" you're referring to but they don't exist in the oil pan to stop oil from leaving it.

Also, it's not the drain plug on the Japanese cars that is hard to get to, it's the filter. The 89 Accord had it buried under the intake manifold, as do many other cars.

vivid1 · October 2006

The oil on my c240 is sooo easy to change. I jack up the car and dump the oil. Make sure the engine is warm and all of the oil will come out. The filter is so easy to change. You dont have to take apart everything under the hood to get to it.

The reason for no dipstick is because your fellow americans were a focus group for MB and said they they like bells and whistles more than having a dip stick. So MB listened to them and used an electronic way of measuring the oil. It is reliable but don't blame MB. They were listening to their American customers and gave them what they wanted.

ackzack · October 2006

Are you the same person as on ebay? If so contact me at ackzack@cox.net about the rims.

jason18 · October 2006

Is it possible to adjust the steering to be a little bit looser? I have driven the 2005 C230 Kompressor for over 1 year and still don't feel comfortable with the tight steering.

thanks

vivid1 · October 2006

You can not make it looser. It is a supercharged sport sedan, not a station wagon.

greenbox · November 2006

No, the car has never been to jiffy lube. Then plug was just too tight right from the factory, or maybe it had corroded. I doubt that MB did that on purpose as they more or less assume that one will bring it to a dealership for an oil change.

As for the valleys, my sympathetic service manager told about them when I first talked about changing the oil myself. When I put the car up on ramps and removed the shrouding under the engine compartment I could see what he meant. The center of the oil pan is lower than the edges of the oil reservoir. When the car is at an angle some of the oil would be trapped in a "valley" and not drain completely. Have you actually measured how much oil you get out when you drain yours? There's supposed to be 8.5 quarts in there and it doesn't all fit in that little pan. That's where the reservoir comes in.

Back to the original question of whether the C240 is worth it, mine just spent 9 days in the dealership while they tracked down a problem with the fuel pump. They replaced the pump and a practically new fuel filter that they'd installed only a few months ago. The car drove fine... for 41 miles. Then it stopped dead and had to be towed back to the dealership. Shows all the symptoms of fuel pump failure, but it's Friday night and I won't know till Monday.

I've spent almost $5000 on repairs for this car since it came out of warranty and there was plenty of repair work done under the warranty. That's to say nothing of the time I've spent in the waiting rooms of six dealerships in five states. Is it worth it? Not bloody likely!

lakepop · November 2006

Kinda a cross post but does anyone know if a Fault code PO170 is strictly related to the Air Mass Flow Sensor OR could it also be a gas cap issue?

Thanks for any response.

cdnpinhead · November 2006

Thanks for yet another message that puts the C230 even farther down on my list of desireable next vehicles.

Pity.

tigglex23 · November 2006

I'm thinking about purchasing a 2003 C230 Kompressor but I know nothing about Mercedes. My last car was a Pontiac so there's your clue. I've never owned anything as "high class" as that. I need some advice about if this is a good investment or not. The vehicle I'm looking at had 69,000 miles. I know it's probably going to be expensive to take care of, but how often will I be repairing this vehicle compared to a GM car. My parents drive nothing but Toyota and they hardly ever have mechancial/engine problems. Would this be a good investment? Please help.

053lake · November 2006

i have a 2006 C350 with standard radio & sirius. Does anyone know if there is a way to scroll the radio information (song title, singer name) so it can all be seen after pressing the INFO button? The letters are so huge that not all the information is shown & I can't find a way to scroll it over. Basically a useless feature if it can't be done. :confuse:

slingshot80 · November 2006

There are some pretty deals on the C class right now. MB says their relaibilty has improved but has it. How are the 06s holding up?

greenbox · January 2007

Pity indeed since the car is a real pleasure to drive, but all roads seem to lead to the service department.

At the time of my last post, when the car had been towed back to the service department that it had left 41 miles earlier, I was just leaving on a 4-week road trip. I had to go in my 1996 Nissan Sentra XE, which hadn't even been prepped for the trip and had 130,000 miles on it. It ran like a trouper for the whole 5,000 mile trip.

Meanwhile, what was wrong with the Mercedes? It was out of gas! But the gauge said I had 1/3 tank! Part of the work they'd done on the previous trip to the service department was to replace the fuel sensor because (while diagnosing the fuel pump problem) they had discovered it was slightly faulty. They replaced it with a new one that was TOTALLY faulty! That's the second time that a new Mercedes part installed by a dealership turned out to be faulty.

It is indeed a pity that Mercedes seems determined to ruin an excellent 100-year reputation.

greenbox · January 2007

Don't do it! See my posts over the last few months for details. Toyotas are great cars, so are Nissans. If you really want a luxury car try a Lexus they're made by Toyota. That's what I'm going to look at next time. Infinities (made by Nissan) don't impress me as being worth the luxury price.

bob1963 · January 2007

Interesting. I am experiencing similar issues with my 2001 C 320 with only 42k miles. Replaced the battery and the problem undervoltage came back. Have been getting intermittent check engine but no one can find a problem. Frustrating for an expensive car with little mileage.

ksandy · January 2007

Hello I know it has been a while , did you ever figure what this problem is and how serious it is ,I am havign the exact same problem , in my 2002 c230 K with 34,000 miles,
So far the weird noice comes only on startup if it is not used for more than a day or 2 ,

please advice , should I get rid of it ?

Thanks in advance

cybersheep · January 2007

Although this posting is aimed @ the C Class, friends with E's and other newer MB's confirm similar issues. In short, I've owned a 240D for 26 years with little or no maintenance issues. However, my C Class has been a nightmare. After spending >$4000 in repairs in 2006, in Jan 2007 the dealer informed me that $3000 would be required because the engine wiring harness needed to be replaced. In short, the plastic insulation was cracking off at just 110,000 miles. Independent service groups told me that they have seen this many times as well. In a previous life, I made wiring harnesses for US & European car companies & the insulation should last forever (>30 years).

MB USA was TOTALLY impossible to talk to & arogant. They would NOT return phone calls that requested warranty coverage for the harness & eventually I received a curt "FOAD" letter from a person @ MB USA that didn't even include a last name!

In short, I "traded" (i.e. gave away) the C Class for a great Lexus I250 last week. When my old 240D eventually is replaced, it will be a Lexus, or Acura, or (possibly) a BMW; but NOT another MB!

Avoid the three pointed star (it is a disguised Chrysler!).

Cybersheep

dc518 · January 2007

Does anyone know the answer to this I am having the same problem right now..No wipers, directionals, hazards, gas gauge etc.. please help before the mercedes vultures suck me dry..email dcastle@nycap.rr.com

vivid1 · January 2007

Did you check the fuse box? That is the first place to check if those things dont work.

The manual says to disconnect the ground wire first and then the positive wire. Did you do that. Connect it visa versa.

mbyessir · January 2007

Hello fellow MB drivers. This site was great when I purchased this auto a few years ago and now I'm back.
I'm hoping you can help me out since I'm not sure whats going on with my 2001 C240. I have not drove my car in the past 6 weeks and was planning on taking it out this weekend. I jumped in, turned the key and nothing ... car would not crank over. The lights on the dash lite up but the engine would not turn over. I was thinking I might have a bad battery from sitting, so I place a battery charger on the car overnight. Came back the next day and the same thing, lights on the dash but engine will not turn over. I placed the charger on the battery for another 24 hours. Still nothing. Now I'm thinking it might not be the battery but something else. I noticed that I cannot put the car in Neutral or just get it out of Park. Is there something that I might be overlooking? I've tried both of my key fobs. Let me know your thoughts. Someone had mentioned a faulty brake switch, could that be right? Thanks!

boomchek · January 2007

Unless your battery is really dead and not chargeable. It is 6 years old.

See if you can get a direct jump start from someone or a battery booster thing-a-majig and if that doesn't work, then start looking at the complicated stuff.

shamp · February 2007

I know my reply is a little late. However, I hope it can be of some use. I have a '01 C320 and I the same experience during the fall 2005. Every morning I'd need a jump; the battery was replaced and afterwards it read good but the car wouldn't start. Finally, the tech came out one morning and said let me try something. He unplugged the computer from under my driver seat and the problem went away just like that. It's an inconvenience but unless you have the time to allow for computer replacement. Set your driver seat and unplug it and your problem should go away. GOOD LUCK!

charlesjv · February 2007

Hello All. I have read your posts regarding dead batteries on C-Class Mercedes. I have a 2002 C320. Recently I noticed that the car has been a little hesitant when starting in the morning until finally it would not start at all. In fact, if left parked for long enough, the battery would drain so much that the doors would not unlock. I jumped the car and then it started but the same scenario was encountered the following morning. I replaced the battery and it seemed to fix the problem. However, after a couple weeks it began to die down and eventually drained completely.

Since I am way over the warranty period I decided to troubleshoot myself. My plan was to remove fuses one at a time until the problem went away. The problem with that is that a single fuse on this car controls many different functions. While I was thinking about what to do next I noticed a very subtle hum coming from somewhere in the car. I tracked it down to the vent hole on the front dome light and sunroof control unit. There is a small cooling motor in there that runs constantly even when the vehicle is turned off. I removed the entire unit and the car started fine the next morning. Upon inspection of this part, I found that the fan has a small sensor that causes it to turn off and on. I am going to clean it up from all the dust and reinstall. If this does not resolve the issue, I found a complete replacement unit on Ebay for $299.99. the part number is A203820-1401.

So if your C-Class battery is draining, this gives you one more thing to check before spending thousands with the dealer.

mbyessir · February 2007

Hello again - I just wanted to give everyone an update with my C240 starting problems. Yes, it ended up being a defective battery. The battery was original and would not hold a charge. I replaced the battery with an Interstate Brand Model # MTP-93 B7. The car started right up with no problems.
Replacing the battery will take you a few minutes but can be accomplished by yourself. You will need a 8 - 12" extenstion for your socket set to remove the plate that holds the battery at the bottom (right side). Here are the steps that I used.
1. Remove the interior air filter that sits above battery. To remove unfasten the three top clips. Unit can be remove in a upward motion.
2. Remove ground wire from battery terminal (left side)
3. Remove orange cap covering positive battery terminal
4. Remove positive battery terminal
5. Need to loosen up nuts that hold bottom battery plate (plate is located at the bottom, right side of battery)
6. Loosen each nut. One is located at the front right the other rear right. You will need an extension on your socket set to be able to reach them. take your time, not much space to get at these nuts.
7. Remove battery by hanges. Be careful, battery is heavy and not in a very easy manageable position. Lift straight up.
8. Place new battery in. Keep in mind to attach positive terminal first then ground.

mbyessir · February 2007

Hello Fellow C Class Owners - I have a 2001 C240 that started to display an error within the dashboard display. The unit shows "ELEC. STABIL. PROG. Visit Workshop! ESP". Does anyone know what this means and if this is a major problem? The car seems to drive fine so I'm unsure on how fast I need to get into the service garage. Any insight you can provide would be most grateful! Thanks All

boomchek · February 2007

This indicates that there is a problem with your Electronic Stability Program.

It's the program that keeps your car on the road if you're oversteering or understeering. Traction control is also built into that program. So when you step on the gas too hard it limits wheelspin.

There is a button on the dash right where the power lock button/rear headrest buttons are located.

You might be able to switch it off but then you won't have that safety of ESP or Traction Control.

Don't know what the cause might be, maybe it's just reprogramming a computer.

lowrider3 · February 2007

hello i'm about to buy an mercedes c220 cdi year 2001 but the car got a problem that dont let the car pass the 3000 rpm and 130km/h. The diagnostics from mercedes is:

P1630-016 - Autorisation de conduite. le calculateur autorisation de conduite ne repond pas.

P1470-016 - Regulation de la pression de suralimentacion Ecart de regulation positif[la pression de suralimentacion es trop basse]

its in french but its easy to understand...
french mercedes say that probably is the vacum pipes need to be replaced i think!!!!
they say (in french):
"mecedes me dit que ce sont probablement les catalyseurs qui commencent à se boucher "
probably the catalysts which start to be stopped

can someone give-me a clue of whats is wrong wiht the car???? and if its to expensive to repair???
thx in avanced
mario

fsmmcsi · March 2007

Has anyone else changed theor front brake pads? I am changing the front brake pads on our 2002 C230 K today.

Rather than a simple spring which rubs against the rotor to signal to the driver that the pads are worn out, M-B used a needlessly complex electrical system. There is a sensor installed to the inside pad. It has two wires, so there are 8 wires and all of the associated mounting hardware and so forth to accomplish the same thing GM and Ford do with little pieces of steel attached to one pad at each wheel.

I really could say that I am trying to change the brake pads today, as the left front wheel is firmly rusted to the rotor. I have soaked it with pentrating oil. For now, putting the weight of the car on it, or kicking the tire has no effect. I have never seen such a thing before, so hope the penetrating oil works. Has anyone else had the same problem?

fsmmcsi · March 2007

Well, I finally got the wheel off using lots of penetrating oil and a by putting a flat bar at the joint between the wheel and rotor/hub and banging way with a five pound hammer. The aluminum of the wheel was very slightly roughed-up in a small spot, so I smoothed it with a file, and used sandpaper to clean the wheel mounting surface and the coresponding disc/hub surface.

To my surprise, I discovered that there is not a wear sensor on the left front brake. I wonder if they switched the sensor to the left side on the right hand drive versions? Whatever, the simple little spring clip which rubs againist the rotor on GM and Ford vehicles is present on at four wheels, making it even better.

The only other problems with the car have been a transmission leak where the wires enter the transmission, a problem which was also common on the Chrysler which use the same transmission design, and sort sort of loose wire under the hood. Of course both were fixed under warranty.

One almost humorous, though not at the time, event involved the dealer here. My wife took the car for the routine oil change and service, but after returning the loner car, they could not find the car! After about two hours they found it on the lot, and returned it filthy dirty. It was clean when we left it, but they said that they could not clean it,as the car was was closed - it seems they do not have a bucket, soap, and rags.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2007

You're thinking of buying a 2001 Benz with error codes? Don't do that.

You probably know that the error codes don't tell you the exact problem...they only indicate the area affected. So really the codes could be quite misleading. Mechanics often replace the wrong components because they don't diagnose more deeply.

Might be as simple as EGR, rich mixture due to bad sensor, blah blah. Someone's got to dig deeper.

Doesn't sound disastrous though.

stocks3019 · March 2007

The driver power seat (which enables the seat cushion to go up and down and driver's chair forward and back) is not working. The passenger's power seat works just fine. My C240 4Matic has 66,700 miles and just went in for service 3 days ago to change the voltage regulator and battery. However, the driver's power seat worked just fine when I got it back.

Does anyone think it might be the fuse (which is located in a compartment on the left side of the dashboard)? Should I first try changing the fuse, and then the motor?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!

boomchek · March 2007

Tell the place where you got your stuff fixed, that it worked before and now it doesn't. Maybe they messed something up.

meinwa · March 2007

I have a 2002 C240 that I bought new. It now has 87,000mi.
I just had it in the shop for an oil change and alignment job. I was told that the transmission electrical plug was leaking, so I had that fixed as well. I was also told that I need new front brake pads (already had them replaced at about 45,000mi) and rotor and rear brake pads @ $600. After the alignment, they noticed that the control arm bushings are loose, and may need to be replaced in the near future @ $545.
I have had the ESP code ("ELEC. STABIL. PROG. Visit Workshop! ESP") come up and go a number of times this winter. I just figured snow accumulated on the sensor, and then melted. The ESP warning light came on while at the shop, and the tech noticed many error codes in the computer, which he cleared. My service writer says that the computer may be going, since there were many codes that needed to be cleared. So, I may have to be replacing that in the near future. I don't know how much that is going to cost...
Should I keep the car (I do love it and it's almost paid-off) or get something else, since I would like to get a bigger car or SUV now that the kids are getting bigger.
Thanks!

vincap28 · March 2007

I have a 96 C220. I have been having a problem with the wiper. It gets stuck, or hung up in the middle of its sweep. It happens on a regular basis, more so when its colder outside. It works fine sometimes so I don't think its the motor. Has anyone had similar problems. The dealer said it would require 3 hours of labor just to identify the poblem (can you say rip off!).

boomchek · March 2007

I have a 2001 C240 with about 100k miles (157000kms).

Although it's hard to predict what the future holds for your car, imagine you fast forward about 13000 miles and here's what might happen, or at least it's happening on my car:

Power steering pump leaking, about $1000cdn to fix it, probably much cheaper in US

Need brakes as well,

Spark plugs need to be changed every 100k miles (previous owner changed them early on mine, so I don't have to worry), but there's two spark plugs per cylinder, so that could cost a bit as there's 12 total.

Having problems starting recently. Engine cranks over but does not start sometimes. Could be fuel pump, or crank position sensor, or the starter, goota get it checked next week.

Other than that I have some minor electrical gremlins that keep popping up but don't affect the car's drivability or operation.

I love my Benz too, but it's a little frustrating sometimes with the shabby reliability.

If you pay it off, put aside about $2000 a year for maintenance and repairs just to be safe.

smwls8 · March 2007

I am close to pulling the trigger on this one, 48K miles. I know nothing about this 1.8 liter engine with a blower. Anyone out there have any experience with it? This one is an auto transmission.

Thank you,
Sam White

vivid1 · March 2007

The SC'd 4banger is a good motor. My uncle just rolled 181k miles in his. Still runs like new. He has done normal maintenance through out the years.

smwls8 · March 2007

I scanned this thread last night after posting my message. Seems like a lot of other issues with the C, but the other car I'm looking at is an 03 Audi Allroad with the 2.7T engine, another complex vehicle.

Thanks again....

fitness · April 2007

I have a 2001 C240 with the glove box mounted 6 CD changer. I ejected the CD magazine while a CD was playing and now the system will not play a CD. The radio works fine and the display shows CD& track numbers but no sound.Any ideas anyone? Thanks.

boomchek · April 2007

Is the CD stuck in there or did you get all the CDs out?

piason · April 2007

What does it cost for a brake job on the 2005 / 2006 C280?

vivid1 · April 2007

Get a quote from a few places. Brakes are not that hard if you know a little about cars. I assume you just need new pads?

I have 32k miles on a 04 240 and have not needed pads yet.

Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair

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