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Suzuki Esteem Wagon

13

Comments

  • born2pdlborn2pdl Member Posts: 1
    About your esteem wagon with the first gear problem, I'll make my email available in my member profile here if you would like to contact me. I think that is within the guidelines of this forum. Thanks.
  • chrisducatichrisducati Member Posts: 394
    Is this a manual gearbox? The manuals are known for all sorts of problems. Auto boxes are AW's and very good. I have a 96 with the 1.6 belt driven ohc. and auto box. We bought this car new in '95 and have driven it Very Hard ( yes the rev limiter works even on automatic cars) over 300'000 miles. No major problems. The engine and gear box have never been open and it uses no oil at all between changes. Problems have been few. Brake pads every 80'000 miles. Belts, hoses, and Timing belt every 60'000 miles. Trans and coolant every 30'000. At some point close to 200'000 miles I had CV boots replaced because I saw grease in the wheel. The early 1.6's had a distributor which has an O ring seal. This seal starts to leak at about 80'000 mile intervals. I just had the front suspension checked and it got a clean bill of health. The shop said the Struts could be replaced but were not totally gone. Over all it has been a wonderful car. Body panels are a bit thin and door ding easily. Our car is Oxford Gray which shifts from a grape color in the sun to gray in the shadows. It still shines great. This car is a gl so it came with the gray tweed cloth. I will say that is the one place they cheaped out. I had the seats recovered at about 210'000 miles. They had not ripped but the cloth had stretched.
  • mehran1mehran1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Esteem wagon with 1.8 engine. what kind of spark plugs should I use and what is the gap?
    what other parts should I change for a tune up other than the plugs?
    thanks so much.
  • anna_banna_b Member Posts: 1
    I Have a 1999 Esteem 1.6L with a manual transmission. I would like to know if the engine is of interfering type (also called "interference head" or "interference engine").
    In interference designs incorrect timing (or timing belt failure) may result in the pistons and valves colliding and causing extensive engine damage. The piston will likely bend the valves. For that reason, in such an engines regular replacement of timing belts is especially important. Thanks, AB
  • pgseabrookpgseabrook Member Posts: 1
    Anyone know where to get a hitch for the Esteem wagon. They are easy to get in Europe where this car was sold as the Baleno so why not in the USA? thanks
  • northyorknorthyork Member Posts: 1
    When I bought 99 Suzuki Esteem Wagon I didn’t get any manual nor tools for the car stereo. My problem is I don’t know how to get it out without damaging the surface around it. Does anybody know where the pressure should be applied that is where the clips/joints etc are located and what could I possibly use to get it out?
  • v1ol8rv1ol8r Member Posts: 6
    to take out your stereo, first remove your ashtray,and heater slide knobs. there are 3 screws that have to be removed. the first one is in the middle of the stereo, just above it in the center( under the top), the other two are under the top of the hole where you pulled the ashtray out of. then remove the whole fascia that surrounds the radio, heater controls etc( it has clips, but just pull on the fascia carefully to release them) then you will see the 4 screws that attach the radio and 'cubby' to the dash. to replace the radio you will need to remove the screws that are on the side of the unit and use them to attach the new unit in the same frame. I found that you may need to file the fascia a little to clear the faceplate of the new radio. good luck!
  • v1ol8rv1ol8r Member Posts: 6
    I have a tow hitch that is on our wagon that may be availible if I cant find a decent 5 spd trannie for our 99 1.6 wagon. I may need to convert it to rear wheel drive and thus will not have room to use it as there will be a rear axle assy. in the way. I beleive it came from some Mercedes 300 or something like that quite a few years ago(maybe 12 yrs.)hold onto something long enough you just may find a use for it. I will keep you posted as to if i decide to get rid of the hitch.
  • mkmk2005mkmk2005 Member Posts: 2
    I have a suzuki esteem wagon gl 1998, with 85000 miles on it, how to change timing belt? does any one knows detailed steps or recommend a good manual, so that I can do it by myself? I read some manual like Chilton, does not look like very clear. thanks for the help.
  • mkmk2005mkmk2005 Member Posts: 2
    well remove ashtray is easy, but hot to remove slide knobs? I do not want to break it, but looks no way to get out this slide knobs (there are funs and circulation slide knobs also) by the way, I did find that 3 screws. thanks for help
  • v1ol8rv1ol8r Member Posts: 6
    the slide knobs just pull off, move the adj, knobs to the middle, then pull on them firmly and they should come off with slight resistence. (you may have to use needlenose pliers or the like, but be careful not to damage the knobs in the process).there is also a wiring harness that will be connected to the lighter socket and to the heater contrils. be care ful not to damge these when you remove the radio bezel. I leave them connected and just CAREFULLY lay the bezel to the side and then work on the radio.
  • v1ol8rv1ol8r Member Posts: 6
    First I would inspect the BELT itself by removing the bolts that hold the Upper Cover on. this can be difficult but is worth the effort. You stated that your car has 85000
    miles on it. There still may be time left on the belt and may only require an adjustment of the tensioner. My 99 wagon has 106,000 on the motor( tho my 5 spd trans has committed suicide), and the timing belt STILL looks real good. It also has not needed any adjustment of the tensioner. I have heard that SUZUKI has recommended to extend the mileage replacement to 105,000, though i have yet to see it in writing. and to be TOTALY honest..... If you don't know how to change a timing belt, I STRONGLY recommend that you have a reputable local shop handle it as it is very easy to screw it up and cause irreversible engine damage. You can always contact local AAA clubs, car service orginizations, and your local better business bureau for a list of recommended shops. if you persist on doing it yourself, try a 'HAYNES' manual if you can find one. or goto your local SUZUKI dealer and purchase a real shop manual for your specific model car(can be quite expensive $50-$125). alot of shops have specials that can cost you a littleas $85 -$175 for this kind of job.
  • v1ol8rv1ol8r Member Posts: 6
    :sick: I am looking for a 5 speed transmission(manual) to fit my 1999 Esteem Wagon. The motor is a 1.6 and the trans is only availible from 1999- 2001 w/the 1.6 engine only. :( I am trying to find one that's not gonna cost me $1000 or more. :confuse: Esp. with a car that is bluebooking @$1100. the cheapest I have found was $850+$200 core+freight.anyone know of a rollover, totaled or one in need of a motor that may be willing to sell the trans cheap? thanks for your time.
  • bubbacitabubbacita Member Posts: 5
    I have the 16v 4 cyl in a 2000 Esteem wagon, It has 66k miles on it, It is begining to sound like a push rod is going to shoot through the hood when you crank it up cold, Also it's slow to start even with a new battery. Any ideas what may be causing this. Are the valves adjustable? Does it have a belt or chain? and could it need to be replaced. thanks for any help
  • denny22denny22 Member Posts: 2
    Hi I have a suzuki esteem 99 and I trying to find out how a tune up usually cost on this car. I called places that is telling me $180 to $79 dollars. Because my car has about 65,000 miles on it and its shaking so bad and then cuts out. We are hoping a tune up will do the job, anyone else have this problem? In addition I am looking for a out side drivers side door handle cheap, it broke and am trying to replace it soon. (Can't even get in thru the drivers side door have to go to the passengers side and open it from the inside door handle to get in) If anyone can help I appreciate it
    Denny
  • denny22denny22 Member Posts: 2
    Yes I have a Suzuki Esteem 99 it does the sames thing, you heard a knocking exspecailly in cold weather but when it warms up enough you dont heard it anymore plus when its knocking, plus its cold, there is no excelaration power to the car until it warms up. Just got use to letting it warm up to start out for the day. NOW I got bigger problems now it sputters, jerks, shakes and then the engine cuts out every 8-10 minutes when driving it. Anyone else experiencing this? Does it just need a tune up? What do you think?
  • dimahtdimaht Member Posts: 1
    Hi I have an esteem wagon and its got 114km it has a problem with its fuel consumption .the engine litght is not on but it consumes 19miles/gal and a 1998 model should provide about 26-28 miles/gal in the city. please let me know if you have experience with solving :confuse: this problem.
  • sadsuzukisadsuzuki Member Posts: 1
    Wow! I have had a bunch go wrong lately. My alternator went two weeks ago (it was definitely the alternator, radio was clicking out in stop/go traffic). Then, a week ago it would not start at all on a cold day. It couldn't be boosted, I had to have it towed and they couldn't boost it at the garage. I got a new battery and it worked fine for a week and then on Christmas day (of all things) I was about to head out on a long road trip with presents in tow when - it happened again- totally dead. It was above sero and raining. My interior lights work fine; so it isn't the battery. I tried five hours later and it started without issue, but the engine light came on. I was afraid to go anywhere, for fear of getting stranded when the garages were closed. I tired it again the next morning and it wouldn't start, but then it started fine in the afternoon and has started fine since. A freind suggested it might be the attachments to the battery had corrosion and there was not full metal to metal contact. I got tools ready to attempt a clean-up, but managed to find a garage open. I was concerned it might be the starter and wanted an assessment before I got too confident. They checked all connections and metal surfaces and said it was fine. I really pressed them to look closely, but they swore there was no signs of corrosion at all. They recommended a starter replacement as they felt the brushes might be deteriorating inside and that was the reason it would start sometimes and not others. I am not 100% comfortable with this after replacing the other parts recently I don't know that that makes full sense and it is not my regular garage, but the holidays left no option. Anyway, they said that it was the only other possibility and ordered the part, and detached the existing starter in the few minutes it took the part to arrive = problem: the part was not the correct one (at least they spotted that) and I am starnded anyway unitl other parts suppliers open. EEEK . I did have an issue with the starter a few years ago when I bought it used with 85,000 km on it. It wouldn't start in three separate incidents in the middle of the summer and suzuki totally missed it. They sent me away twice (the second time with a new battery to replace my new battery). A better trained tow truck driver was kind enought to have a look and noticed that the starter was sparking but a wire was loose. They fixed it atthe time. I suppose the scenario is similar. So, it may be the starter, but could be some other faulty contact or connection thathey have missed (the check seemed pretty cursory). Any comments????? ... and why alternator and then the starting problems to follow???? (an aside: a taxi driver slammed into my front end while my car was parked at 6:30 in the morning a week ago - and he travelled in reverse across two lanes to do it) I think I am having a really bad car month) :(
  • v1ol8rv1ol8r Member Posts: 6
    First of all, you didn't state if the starter was dragging when you tried it, was it trying to rotate at all, or was there no click or nothing when you tried to crank the engine over. With what you have stated, it sounds more like your problem lies either in the 'neutral' safety switch (automatics only) or a bad key(ignition) switch. The 'neutral' safety switch is the switch that allows you to start the engine only when the gear select or is in "P"- park or "N" neutral only. Next time the starter does not want to work for you, try putting the gear selector in the "N" neutral position and then try to crank the engine. Also try to move the shifter between "P" park and "N" neutral positions while holding the key in the "start" position to see if that will get the puppy hummin'. Due to the age of the car it is quite possible that this switch is going bad. I'm not sure if the neutral safety switch is under the center console or on the transmission itself, either way, it is not too difficult to replace with some average tools and some minor mechanical knowledge. :P

    Another possibility could also be that your actual "key" ignition switch in your steering column. Suzuki's in the past (SAMURAI'S, etc.) have had some trouble with the key switch wearing out and not energizing the starter side of the switch. The "key" tumbler itself works fine, just the electrical switch located on the backside gets loose and begins to burn the contact points of the switch and thus makes it difficult to engage that part of the switch. :sick:

    Both of these problems will act intermittently with no rhyme or reason as when it happens. The other possibility could lie in the starter itself or the solenoid of the starter but that should have been eliminated when you replaced the starter.

    PS.. what "engine" light came on? :confuse:
  • devlin7devlin7 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a '99 Esteem wagon. My wife and I love it but it has one problem... If we lock the doors we can't get it to unlock consistantly. Also sometimes the key gets stuck in the locks and ignition. Has anyone else had this problem? Would it be good to just get all new locks and ignition switch? Or is there a less expensive fix?
  • devlin7devlin7 Member Posts: 2
    I am wondering if this forum is still active. I have as the last few have mentioned getting poor gas milage and to keep from duplicating questions have been waiting to read the replies but it seems no one either has any suggestions on what their problem is or this forum is abandoned.
  • bigkenrnbigkenrn Member Posts: 1
    I WAS TAKING OUT MY KEY IN THE IGNITION AND THE TIP OF THE KEY BROKE OFF. NOW I AM TRYING TO FIX IT, BUT I HAVE A PROBLEM OF GETTING THE TIP OF THE KEY OUT. I WANT TO GET THE IT FIXED WITHOUT PAYING AN ARM AND A LEG. WE HAVE ONLY ONE SUZUKI DEALERSHIP IN THE AREA. PLEASE IF YOU HAVE ANY ADVICE I WOULD VERY HAPPY. I HAVE TRIED, SUPER GLUE, COAT HANGER, PLIERS, SCREW DRIVERS, AND A MAGNET BUT THE TIP OF THE KEY WONT BUDGE. HELP PLEASE!!!!
  • bebrianbikebebrianbike Member Posts: 1
    Hey, my power steering pulley as become mangled and won't hold the belt anymore. Long story. The dealership tells me I should get the whole OEM pump because "The amount of labor to replace just the pulley would not be worth it." I know the pulley can be purchased seperately for $400 less than the OEM pump. Aftermarket pumps do not include the pulley. All this leads me to believe the it shouldn't be too hard to replace the pulley on my existing pump. I've done a fair amount of engine work myself over the years, is this something I should go ahead and try myself? I'd rather spend $100 and get dirty than pay $700 and be broke.
    Also, why can't I find a Chilton's or Haynes manual for this car or engine? Is there a twin model that I can use the manual for?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated!
    Thanks!
  • hivoltg30hivoltg30 Member Posts: 1
    So how do you reset the Check Engine light on a 2001 Suzuki Esteem Wagon?
  • suzeq32suzeq32 Member Posts: 1
    I am thinkin about purchasing a suzuki esteem 2001, 34,000 miles. I am little nervous though, I just had a very bad Chevy Venture experience. Is this a reliable car, will I get a lot of life out of it?
  • radiokenradioken Member Posts: 8
    Have you tried wrecking yards? The whole pump assembly would be cheaper than a new pulley. The 1.8 and 1.6 have different pressure relief valve pressures but might use the same mounting. Bring your old one or a picture to compare.
    These have occasionally also turned up on Ebay.
  • radiokenradioken Member Posts: 8
    I bought a 2000 1.8GLX wagon automatic last year at 42,000 miles. Other than normal maintenance I have no problems. The original owner didn't do much except change the oil, so it needed new tires, front brakes, spark plugs, air filter, etc. and I changed all fluids. It doesn't burn or leak anything. I now have 54,000 miles and no surprises.
  • radiokenradioken Member Posts: 8
    An OBDII scanner is required. Autozone and possibly other parts stores will read the failure code for free with the hope you will purchase the repair part(s) from them.
  • christopher502christopher502 Member Posts: 1
    I need to know what the wire colors on the main harness mean (all 11 I think there were). I'm trying to install a new unit but after purchasing 2 different adapters, I dicided to do it the old fashion way.
  • davidrockdavidrock Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Esteem. She's been good to me, until lately. The last couple months, she's been bucking. I am going about 120 (km) and she stalls. The electricity cuts out. I have to pop it in nutral and then restart her. When I slow down off the high-way, at lights and stop signs, she keeps jerking and also stalls. Short distances are fine, but long distances and it feels like a wild bull ride. I've change the spark-plugs, air filter, spark wires, ... I need help...Thanks
  • bdebaybdebay Member Posts: 2
    2000 esteem wagon with 1.8. The car starts fine and runs for about 6 miles on average then begins to slow down like left front brake is dragging. Doing 65 slows down to about 50 and seems to be laboring hard for maybe 2-3 miles then it lets up and fine for the rest of the trip. Any ideas would be helpful.
  • ethan8ethan8 Member Posts: 13
    I have heard of a bad master cylinder causing pressure on the brakes even when your foot is not on the pedal. It may not be the brakes at all. could be timing or a fuel system problem. Sounds like it happens when the engine reaches normal temp. Most of the time it is hard to figure out what is wrong. Suzuki seems to have few problems and when they do the dealers have not experienced the problem before. they have to hunt for a fix.
  • manny600manny600 Member Posts: 1
    how can i disconnect the daylihght driving lights in the car so they wont be on all the time
  • noesteemnoesteem Member Posts: 1
    :confuse:I am having the same problem with my 97 Esteem. Did you ever find out what was wrong? I'd really appreciate any advice from anyone with any ideas!

    At random times through the year, my Esteem will not start at all (4 times in the last 7 months to be exact). Nothing happens when I try to turn the ignition. My battery lights will be on for a bit, but after a few attempts at starting the car, the battery goes completly dead! I mean completely dead-the battery will no longer even hold a charge!

    After checking under the hood "thoroughly", Four different mechanics have all come to the conclusion that nothing is wrong with the car and its just the battery. (Alternator's fine, starter's fine, they can't find anything wrong) But after 4 differet batteries (actually it will be 5 tomorrow, when I get the car towed in for the 2nd time in 2 weeks) there is clearly somethings up????

    After reading about the Neutral sfety switch (from the last person to reply to this post), I've been given some hope, I'm gonna have them try checking for that. But could there be anything electrical? I've also had to replace a blown fuse this year...the black one which goes directly to the battery. I don't know, its certainly out of the ordinary but I want to kick this problem to the curb. Does anyone have any suggestions on what else I should have my mechanic check???

    Thanks!
    Happy Car Karma
  • rmm6rmm6 Member Posts: 1
    David could you contact me as I have the same problem and would like your advice rrmorin@hotmail.com
  • laura13laura13 Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2000 Suzuki Esteem wagon, the "serpentine"? belt broke yesterday and my husband is having a hard time figuring out the best way to get to it. He thinks the "motor mount" may have to be removed.....anyone have any experience with these things?
    Any help would be appreciated. :cry:
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Member Posts: 402
    Problems and Solutions Try Checking there too.
  • drvlikustolitdrvlikustolit Member Posts: 1
    I am planning on changing my warped rotors on my 1.8 L 2000 Esteem wagon and wanted to know if anyone has info on this job. I have done rotor changes before and sometimes what looks obvious may not be the best way to do the job. Torque specs and other info would also be helpful. I have not been able to find any manuals on this car Haynes, or Factory. Any info that gives me a heads up before I take them off would be appreciated.
    Thanks
  • tkilliantkillian Member Posts: 2
    I dont know if anyone reads this board but...

    I have a 2000 Esteem Wagon. 144,400 miles! I just replaced the Axles. The mechanic says In need front struts and or link pins since its rattling like crazy.
    The trunk wont lock. It closes but the key wont turn
    The door handles on the passagner front is broken. I comes off in your hand, you have to open the door from the inside. The door handle on the back passenger works but get stuck when pulled up. The dome light doesnt turn off after you open the door. So we have to have it always off and put it on manually.
    Ive replaced the brakes a bunch of times, the air conditioner is getting suspicious.
    Even with all the that my mechanic says the engine and trasmission could go another 100,000!!
    So do I keep putting money into this car or unload it now>
  • nm5snm5s Member Posts: 1
    I am moving my Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control kit from my 1998 Esteem wagon to my "new" 2000 Esteem wagon. (It was a great upgrade for a very reasonable cost.) Everything is hooked up EXCEPT what is called the VSS and tach wires that go to the computer. Since the computer connections are different on these models I am stumped. Anyone?

    thanks for reading
  • tkilliantkillian Member Posts: 2
    Anyone out there??
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    We're here! While you wait here, you could try cross-posting in this discussion: To Fix Up or Trade Up, That is the Question. You'll reach a wider audience that way.
  • rich84rich84 Member Posts: 1
    Suzuki Esteem 1999 1.8l Wagon . First ABS light was on. Next noise under hood.
    When I have touch actuator module it was very hot. Cost of module about $1200
    I have disconnected electrical cable.Have anybody idea what to do, except to spend
    about $1500 ?. Thanks
  • hetalhetal Member Posts: 1
    :sick: :blush: :P
  • yorksyorks Member Posts: 1
    Please help, I have a 99 esteem 1.8 that was throwing codes of P0172 and P1451. We replaced the downstream O2 sensor and cleared the codes. Since then the check engine light has stayed off but it still doesn't idle correctly. The rpm's drop intermitely and come back up to normal and on occasion the engine stalls. When attempting to restart - engine cranks, starts and quites. After several attempts if gas petal is applied when cranking engine starts. The engine stills runs rough intermitely. At times the engine seems ok. When driving during exceleration from a stop throttle seems to have a dead spot where engine seems to not take fuel. If you excelerate more the engine picks up until it reaches this position of excelerator petal, then hesitates again or seems to have dead spot again. If gas petal is held in same position when hestitation starts the engine seems to buck until you excelerate more.
  • radiokenradioken Member Posts: 8
    Unplug the DRL controller, which is under the dash right behind the hood release, near the underdash fuses. You must then connect the red wire with the black stripe with the violet wire so that the parking brake light is operational.
  • radiokenradioken Member Posts: 8
    The VSS is a violet wire with a yellow stripe, it can be accessed at the VSS, which is on the transaxle right under the shift cable if an automatic. It can also be found at the instrument cluster. The TACH wire is brown and can be found at the engine control module or at the instrument cluster.
  • radiokenradioken Member Posts: 8
    I've replaced mine, they were easy. Here's a torque list: caliper slide pin bolts; 16 lb.-ft., caliper mounting bracket, also wheel lug nuts; 61.5 lb.-ft., brake disk screw; 4 lb.-ft. Be sure to use caliper grease on the slide pins, (under the rubber boots), mine got sticky and warped the rotors. Factory manuals turn up from time to time on Ebay.
  • radiokenradioken Member Posts: 8
    Are your keys copies? If not they may be just plain worn out. I'd try getting a new one made at the dealer from the number on the lock for the ignition switch. A locksmith should also be able to do this. It should be much cheaper than replacing everything. The cheapest fix is to try some graphite (Lock-Ease).
  • cb644cb644 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Esteem GLX wagon with 135,000 miles on it. 6 weeks ago I had a new battery and alternator installed and all was fine until Sunday when I unloaded some dirt from the hatchback. Apparently, when I shut the hatch, the rear dome light came on. The next morning, the car was dead as a doornail - electric locks wouldn't work, couldn't shift, etc. Started right up when I got a jump, let it idle for over a half hour and then drove 6 miles to work. When I came out 4 hours later, it was dead again. Charged over night on a trickle charger, but it was dead again the next morning. Took it back to Pep Boys and they say the battery and alternator are fine, but there is a 5 amp drain when the car is turned off. They pulled all the fuses and couldn't find anything, so they recommend I take it in to the dealer. Anyone have any ideas - I hate to keep dumping $ into it and I've had electrical problems with other cars that were never resolved. Thanks!
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