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Suzuki Esteem Wagon

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  • I am wondering if this forum is still active. I have as the last few have mentioned getting poor gas milage and to keep from duplicating questions have been waiting to read the replies but it seems no one either has any suggestions on what their problem is or this forum is abandoned.
  • bigkenrnbigkenrn Posts: 1
    I WAS TAKING OUT MY KEY IN THE IGNITION AND THE TIP OF THE KEY BROKE OFF. NOW I AM TRYING TO FIX IT, BUT I HAVE A PROBLEM OF GETTING THE TIP OF THE KEY OUT. I WANT TO GET THE IT FIXED WITHOUT PAYING AN ARM AND A LEG. WE HAVE ONLY ONE SUZUKI DEALERSHIP IN THE AREA. PLEASE IF YOU HAVE ANY ADVICE I WOULD VERY HAPPY. I HAVE TRIED, SUPER GLUE, COAT HANGER, PLIERS, SCREW DRIVERS, AND A MAGNET BUT THE TIP OF THE KEY WONT BUDGE. HELP PLEASE!!!!
  • Hey, my power steering pulley as become mangled and won't hold the belt anymore. Long story. The dealership tells me I should get the whole OEM pump because "The amount of labor to replace just the pulley would not be worth it." I know the pulley can be purchased seperately for $400 less than the OEM pump. Aftermarket pumps do not include the pulley. All this leads me to believe the it shouldn't be too hard to replace the pulley on my existing pump. I've done a fair amount of engine work myself over the years, is this something I should go ahead and try myself? I'd rather spend $100 and get dirty than pay $700 and be broke.
    Also, why can't I find a Chilton's or Haynes manual for this car or engine? Is there a twin model that I can use the manual for?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated!
    Thanks!
  • So how do you reset the Check Engine light on a 2001 Suzuki Esteem Wagon?
  • suzeq32suzeq32 Posts: 1
    I am thinkin about purchasing a suzuki esteem 2001, 34,000 miles. I am little nervous though, I just had a very bad Chevy Venture experience. Is this a reliable car, will I get a lot of life out of it?
  • radiokenradioken Posts: 8
    Have you tried wrecking yards? The whole pump assembly would be cheaper than a new pulley. The 1.8 and 1.6 have different pressure relief valve pressures but might use the same mounting. Bring your old one or a picture to compare.
    These have occasionally also turned up on Ebay.
  • radiokenradioken Posts: 8
    I bought a 2000 1.8GLX wagon automatic last year at 42,000 miles. Other than normal maintenance I have no problems. The original owner didn't do much except change the oil, so it needed new tires, front brakes, spark plugs, air filter, etc. and I changed all fluids. It doesn't burn or leak anything. I now have 54,000 miles and no surprises.
  • radiokenradioken Posts: 8
    An OBDII scanner is required. Autozone and possibly other parts stores will read the failure code for free with the hope you will purchase the repair part(s) from them.
  • I need to know what the wire colors on the main harness mean (all 11 I think there were). I'm trying to install a new unit but after purchasing 2 different adapters, I dicided to do it the old fashion way.
  • davidrockdavidrock Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Esteem. She's been good to me, until lately. The last couple months, she's been bucking. I am going about 120 (km) and she stalls. The electricity cuts out. I have to pop it in nutral and then restart her. When I slow down off the high-way, at lights and stop signs, she keeps jerking and also stalls. Short distances are fine, but long distances and it feels like a wild bull ride. I've change the spark-plugs, air filter, spark wires, ... I need help...Thanks
  • 2000 esteem wagon with 1.8. The car starts fine and runs for about 6 miles on average then begins to slow down like left front brake is dragging. Doing 65 slows down to about 50 and seems to be laboring hard for maybe 2-3 miles then it lets up and fine for the rest of the trip. Any ideas would be helpful.
  • ethan8ethan8 Posts: 13
    I have heard of a bad master cylinder causing pressure on the brakes even when your foot is not on the pedal. It may not be the brakes at all. could be timing or a fuel system problem. Sounds like it happens when the engine reaches normal temp. Most of the time it is hard to figure out what is wrong. Suzuki seems to have few problems and when they do the dealers have not experienced the problem before. they have to hunt for a fix.
  • how can i disconnect the daylihght driving lights in the car so they wont be on all the time
  • :confuse:I am having the same problem with my 97 Esteem. Did you ever find out what was wrong? I'd really appreciate any advice from anyone with any ideas!

    At random times through the year, my Esteem will not start at all (4 times in the last 7 months to be exact). Nothing happens when I try to turn the ignition. My battery lights will be on for a bit, but after a few attempts at starting the car, the battery goes completly dead! I mean completely dead-the battery will no longer even hold a charge!

    After checking under the hood "thoroughly", Four different mechanics have all come to the conclusion that nothing is wrong with the car and its just the battery. (Alternator's fine, starter's fine, they can't find anything wrong) But after 4 differet batteries (actually it will be 5 tomorrow, when I get the car towed in for the 2nd time in 2 weeks) there is clearly somethings up????

    After reading about the Neutral sfety switch (from the last person to reply to this post), I've been given some hope, I'm gonna have them try checking for that. But could there be anything electrical? I've also had to replace a blown fuse this year...the black one which goes directly to the battery. I don't know, its certainly out of the ordinary but I want to kick this problem to the curb. Does anyone have any suggestions on what else I should have my mechanic check???

    Thanks!
    Happy Car Karma
  • rmm6rmm6 Posts: 1
    David could you contact me as I have the same problem and would like your advice rrmorin@hotmail.com
  • We have a 2000 Suzuki Esteem wagon, the "serpentine"? belt broke yesterday and my husband is having a hard time figuring out the best way to get to it. He thinks the "motor mount" may have to be removed.....anyone have any experience with these things?
    Any help would be appreciated. :cry:
  • I am planning on changing my warped rotors on my 1.8 L 2000 Esteem wagon and wanted to know if anyone has info on this job. I have done rotor changes before and sometimes what looks obvious may not be the best way to do the job. Torque specs and other info would also be helpful. I have not been able to find any manuals on this car Haynes, or Factory. Any info that gives me a heads up before I take them off would be appreciated.
    Thanks
  • I dont know if anyone reads this board but...

    I have a 2000 Esteem Wagon. 144,400 miles! I just replaced the Axles. The mechanic says In need front struts and or link pins since its rattling like crazy.
    The trunk wont lock. It closes but the key wont turn
    The door handles on the passagner front is broken. I comes off in your hand, you have to open the door from the inside. The door handle on the back passenger works but get stuck when pulled up. The dome light doesnt turn off after you open the door. So we have to have it always off and put it on manually.
    Ive replaced the brakes a bunch of times, the air conditioner is getting suspicious.
    Even with all the that my mechanic says the engine and trasmission could go another 100,000!!
    So do I keep putting money into this car or unload it now>
  • nm5snm5s Posts: 1
    I am moving my Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control kit from my 1998 Esteem wagon to my "new" 2000 Esteem wagon. (It was a great upgrade for a very reasonable cost.) Everything is hooked up EXCEPT what is called the VSS and tach wires that go to the computer. Since the computer connections are different on these models I am stumped. Anyone?

    thanks for reading
  • Anyone out there??
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    We're here! While you wait here, you could try cross-posting in this discussion: To Fix Up or Trade Up, That is the Question. You'll reach a wider audience that way.
  • Suzuki Esteem 1999 1.8l Wagon . First ABS light was on. Next noise under hood.
    When I have touch actuator module it was very hot. Cost of module about $1200
    I have disconnected electrical cable.Have anybody idea what to do, except to spend
    about $1500 ?. Thanks
  • hetalhetal Posts: 1
    :sick: :blush: :P
  • yorksyorks Posts: 1
    Please help, I have a 99 esteem 1.8 that was throwing codes of P0172 and P1451. We replaced the downstream O2 sensor and cleared the codes. Since then the check engine light has stayed off but it still doesn't idle correctly. The rpm's drop intermitely and come back up to normal and on occasion the engine stalls. When attempting to restart - engine cranks, starts and quites. After several attempts if gas petal is applied when cranking engine starts. The engine stills runs rough intermitely. At times the engine seems ok. When driving during exceleration from a stop throttle seems to have a dead spot where engine seems to not take fuel. If you excelerate more the engine picks up until it reaches this position of excelerator petal, then hesitates again or seems to have dead spot again. If gas petal is held in same position when hestitation starts the engine seems to buck until you excelerate more.
  • radiokenradioken Posts: 8
    Unplug the DRL controller, which is under the dash right behind the hood release, near the underdash fuses. You must then connect the red wire with the black stripe with the violet wire so that the parking brake light is operational.
  • radiokenradioken Posts: 8
    The VSS is a violet wire with a yellow stripe, it can be accessed at the VSS, which is on the transaxle right under the shift cable if an automatic. It can also be found at the instrument cluster. The TACH wire is brown and can be found at the engine control module or at the instrument cluster.
  • radiokenradioken Posts: 8
    I've replaced mine, they were easy. Here's a torque list: caliper slide pin bolts; 16 lb.-ft., caliper mounting bracket, also wheel lug nuts; 61.5 lb.-ft., brake disk screw; 4 lb.-ft. Be sure to use caliper grease on the slide pins, (under the rubber boots), mine got sticky and warped the rotors. Factory manuals turn up from time to time on Ebay.
  • radiokenradioken Posts: 8
    Are your keys copies? If not they may be just plain worn out. I'd try getting a new one made at the dealer from the number on the lock for the ignition switch. A locksmith should also be able to do this. It should be much cheaper than replacing everything. The cheapest fix is to try some graphite (Lock-Ease).
  • cb644cb644 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Esteem GLX wagon with 135,000 miles on it. 6 weeks ago I had a new battery and alternator installed and all was fine until Sunday when I unloaded some dirt from the hatchback. Apparently, when I shut the hatch, the rear dome light came on. The next morning, the car was dead as a doornail - electric locks wouldn't work, couldn't shift, etc. Started right up when I got a jump, let it idle for over a half hour and then drove 6 miles to work. When I came out 4 hours later, it was dead again. Charged over night on a trickle charger, but it was dead again the next morning. Took it back to Pep Boys and they say the battery and alternator are fine, but there is a 5 amp drain when the car is turned off. They pulled all the fuses and couldn't find anything, so they recommend I take it in to the dealer. Anyone have any ideas - I hate to keep dumping $ into it and I've had electrical problems with other cars that were never resolved. Thanks!
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