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Pontiac GTO

1545557596082

Comments

  • sputterguysputterguy Member Posts: 383
    Hey, nice car. Thanks for the info. I'll pass it on to my friend. I'd like to see more pictures of GTOs here.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    2006 Holden/Vauxhall Monaro (CV-X, available in only 5 color combos) production ends in December of this year - a very short run. 2006 GTO production will end in June of 2006. There will not be a 2007 GTO based on the current Monaro - Holden's converting their plant to build Zeta and will not have the ability to build V-based coupes. Holden also plans to build Zeta-based coupes in Australia, but that's a year or two out.

    This makes it pretty unlikely that there will be a 2007 GTO. 2008? 2009? I know much more than I can say publicly. I am VERY optimistic, let me just say that. Speculation as to when, or where a next-gen GTO might be built, well, let's just say I've said enough already :-)

    --Robert
  • jontyreesjontyrees Member Posts: 160
    On the settings tweaking topic... I replaced just the front and side panel speakers with some middle-of-the-road Blaupunkt coaxials, but left the parcel shelf subs in. Even with fairly high sensitivity (93dBs) replacement speakers, the volume at the same head unit setting was noticeably down, BUT, since the replacements are 4ohm vs the original 2ohm, you can turn up the volume on the HU without it starting to clip as easily, (so less distortion). I also turned up the gain on the little sub-amp in the trunk, (small knob on the far end of the amp). My settings are +1 on both bass and treble, no preset eq, disabled the distortion limiter and speed related volume controls.

    It actually sounds pretty good - no problems until I try to listen to something very bass-heavy at high volumes, at which point the little 7" subs run out of travel and start bottoming out - ugh. 7" subs can't perform like 12" subs - just a fact of life.

    The whole fix cost me $70, and I'm happy. My other car has a fairly extensive aftermarket system with two amps, nice components, a built into the floor sub, and about 700 real watts, so I have a decent benchmark.
  • coresellercoreseller Member Posts: 40
    Thanks there Mr. Hammen for the heads up on B & M. You and your writing have always struck me as insightful but my question is have you heard of a couple of complaints or is there basis for "running away"? We all know how this story goes but I wanted to confirm, after all, the Ripper is pretty pricey and I've had a few other B & M products in the past and can't complain. Thanks again for your advice, I (and probably alot of others on this board) do take it seriously.....Mark.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I am a participant on another GTO-specific discussion board... there are more than a few unhappy B&M owners there. Broken/poorly-engineered design, installation and fitment issues, leaking tranny issues after install, et. al. By comparison, the RipShift gets a lot of kudos. I know it's more expensive (check with LS1Speed in the Chitown burbs - think they were doing a group purchase), but I think in this case you get what you pay for.

    Suggest you Google and see for yourself. Disclaimer: I'm an IT geek for a printing company, with no interest in either manufacturer, or any speed shop, for that matter. Just repeating what I've read elsewhere...

    --Robert
  • gtogmgtogm Member Posts: 31
    2005 Saleen supercharged Mustang is listed at $48,000 and sports 400hp and 425 torque. But a GTO with similar hpa and save $15k

    A guy next to me had the NON-supercharged Saleen and said he paid nearly $45k with dealer markup, that guy got taken for RIDE! It' only has 10 or 20 more hp then regular GT in non S/C form?

    I hope he got gold plated door panels and jar of vaseline for that deal. He could have bought a C6 Corvette for that price!!
  • elkiiielkiii Member Posts: 50
    Since GM killed Zeta for NA, and yes, I've read the rumors that they're re-thinking this, I don't think they could get something ready for an '08 model. If they turned things on today you're likely not to see something until '09/10. That a long time for a company in the situation that GM is in.

    Personally I think this is a bad decision. I think that Americas fascination with large trucks is going to start trailing off very soon. The boomer generation, of which I'm a part of, is reaching the point where the kids are gone and the ol' SUV is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed]. I think a move to luxury/near luxury vehicles is going to increase. Creating the right brand image now, like Cadillac is trying to do, will pay big dividends later. Pontiac has (had?) an decent opportunity to create a powerful near luxury car line. If the GTO is delayed til '09 I think GM will have no choice but to move it down-scale into Mustang territory and go after the $25K and under market.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    ...3+ model years to engineer a GTO on Zeta, considering it was pretty much already in the can, from a design perspective? Sure, there were engineering/integration issues to be done, but it was pretty far along when the plug was pulled.

    Zeta cars won't be built in North America, at least, not anytime soon... so, if you wanted a next-gen GTO, and you wanted to build it on Zeta, where would you build it?
  • sputterguysputterguy Member Posts: 383
    When I was younger I was happy with vinyl interiors that you stuck to on hot summer days as long as the car was fast. As I've gotten older I want a little more comfort with my performance. Air conditioning is good. Yes, even power windows. I guess I am getting a little lazy also. The GTO has a good combination of performance, comfort and luxury. GM could have done a better job though. But instead of building on this it seems they've given up. The future is looking grim...
  • elkiiielkiii Member Posts: 50
    Well, I been on projects that were "pretty far along" then killed and then resurrrected. Trust me, you don't pick up at day N then move immediatly to N+1. At the very least there is a 3 to 6 mo period just to re-budget.

    At this point its hard to tell where/when GM will build be the next gen GTO. Or if they'll build it at all. Since the only other rear drive platform they have is the Sigma maybe the next GTO will really be a Cadillac CTS-V coupe. I'm not convinced that even GMs knows.
  • 05midblue05midblue Member Posts: 20
    every magazine is talking about......"SHELBY MUSTANGS/ DODGE CHARGER R/T SRT8" ....muscle cars of the future....................GM SHOULD BE ASHAMED OF ITSELF

    I have to respectfully disagree. Although the GTO was never ahead of the pack when it came to raw HP or 1/4 mile times, the GTO is THE BEST VALUE on the market today $/hp. So much in fact that I traded in my '02 Dodge for it. I can't even tell my dad that I own a chevy powered vehicle, as my family (myself included) are huge mopar nuts. It's a good thing I live 1400 miles away. My Dodge had a poorly made interior with lousy body seams. In my opinion, anyone should spend the extra $15K for the SRT8 and tell me just how much they enjoy that extra 25 HP! Not to mention, you'd look retired driving that 4dr around. I'll laugh all the way to the parking lot! The goat is such a good value and fun to drive, I keep making excuses to "run to the store". It's a sleeper with good reviews (see M'Trend Jan. '05?, GTO vs. Caddy, vs. SRT8), and I'm the only one in a 50 mile radius with one. The Shelby's are good cars, as are the SRT8's, but again in my opinion, GM did just fine with the GTO. I've got to run to the store,

    Mark
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Ummmm.... damn I wish I could say what I know. Go back and re-read my two posts on this subject. I am trying to say things without saying them, if you get my drift.
  • gtogmgtogm Member Posts: 31
    GTO is $85 per hp and the Mustang is $94 per Hp, based on GTO at $34k 400hp and Stang at $28k 300hp , both fully loaded !! Where can you get a 400hp V8 car with good interior/build, good seats for under $34k today? This car has the same drivetrain as the Corvette which starts at $45k+ Very good value. Too bad other people don't get it. There is more to car then just style. GTO isn't ugly, just plain, but thats fine for me. 2005 made a good improvement with scoops and dual exhaust.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,920
    There is more to a car than HP, too.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • lovegtolovegto Member Posts: 23
    It seems that GM should develop enough of a market to justify a new rear drive platform. The GTO would be a Pontiac version where the emphasis is on performance but a Buick version called perhaps Riviera could place the emphasis on comfort and quiet. The cars should not be the same, that is they should not share more than 50% to 60% of their parts. In particular their sheet metal should be different, Perhaps the Buick could look like the 1998 Olds Aurora, a very good looking car, only in two doors. The Pontiac could have a high trunk line with a rear spoiler and hood scoops. The leather on the buick seats could be butter while the Pontiac's would be pebble. The engine in the Pontiac would be the LS2 while the Buick would have a refined small Northstar V8 and options like the new magnetic shocks used on the Corvette. The two cars might sell for similar prices but the value would be put in different parts of the car. No one would confuse the cars and both would generate interest in their respective divisions. The most important thing is that no more than 50% or 60% of the parts are interchangeable and options for one are restricted to that division.
  • max19max19 Member Posts: 22
    Style is really in the eye of the beholder. The GTO is not an ugly car, I have to strongly disagree. It is a hot looking car. PERIOD. I took my wife to take a look at the Mustang Saleen and for 16k more you get 75hp less... it doesn't make any sense. Spend a little bit on a stiff racing suspension system and you will be able to out run the Saleen on the track. By the way, the entry level Saleen only beats the Stang' GT 0-60 by .10 of a second!!! That is awful. So whoever pay the extra money and I can still beat them with my 05' Goat. The only Saleen that offers a threat is the Extreme version ($57,000.00) with 500 HP created by Ram Air... 0-60 in 4.5 seconds 1/4 mile in 12.1 seconds...trust me if I could spend an extra 24k on my Goat and put the Lindenfender package the will be absolutely no Stang or Saleen type vehicle to match it.

    By the way the interior on the Saleen is still inferior to the quality and european style looking of the GTO.
  • max19max19 Member Posts: 22
    Value within class 9 out of 10!

    "A nicely appointed interior with a usable back seat are pluses in this class. But it is GTO's blend of American-V8 go and European road manners at a reasonable price that earn it our Best Buy rating."

    The Stang is not a Best Buy, it's "Recommended" - Upps for the Stang...
  • gtogmgtogm Member Posts: 31
    You are 100% right, there is more to a car then just HP, Here goes; GTO has a great usuable backseat for adults, something the Stang doesn't. Interior-Seats are nicer-more comfortable in GTO then Stang. In 3 straight magazines, MPH and some others, GTO beat Stang in all perf. categories!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,920
    That's fine. And that's what you get for your extra $6K or so.

    Some folks would rather save some $$. Some folks (ok, alot of folks) also prefer the style of the Stang. So, in their opinion, they get a more visually appealing car for somewhere around 18% less money, and sacrifice a relatively small margin in performance. I don't think its the least bit difficult to understand buying either of these cars.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • gtogmgtogm Member Posts: 31
    I would never pay $44k let alone $57k for a Saleen either. It's still a Mustang. Just like I would never pay $44k or $57 for a souped up version of the GTO either. I would pay slightly more to get 7 liter 505hp motor in GTO but no more then $5k.

    Yes, know matter what the Ford guys try to tell you, the interior/seats on Mustang is NOT as nice or have same quality as GTO's. Even after you buy the $400 interior improvement package Ford tries to sell you.
  • gtogmgtogm Member Posts: 31
    Either car is a good choice. I just preferred GTO. My was not $6k more. I paid $31k for my GTO, Mustangs in my area are $2k over Msrp, about $30k.

    In the end I only paid $1k more for GTO. Pretty close.

    What about Mustang owners paying $10k more then GTO owners to get the base Saleen, which only adds 15 more hp and is still slower and cheaper interior then GTO. You are just paying for the Saleen name on your car. I believe it's only .1 of a second faster 0-60 then GT.
  • jontyreesjontyrees Member Posts: 160
    Hmm, thought I was in the GTO forum, but apparently I wandered into the Mustang vs GTO forum by mistake.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    You know, I'm over the BS reviews/comparos between the Mustang and the GTO. People should stop listening to the "conventional wisdom" and actually take the damn cars out for a test drive. Then, go buy what you like (and can afford). For me, it's the GTO... was coming home Saturday night from a get-together of my buddies from high school (graduated 22 years ago, *sigh*). Hopping on the freeway in rural Wisconsin, just punched it and was almost doing 80 halfway down the ramp - decided to let off in case Mr. Officer was nearby. Gotta love the INSANE amount of power available - puts a smile on my face every time I put my foot into it. Like the unexpected patch of rubber I laid this morning on the 1-2 shift through an intersection near my house :-)

    I spent about 4 1/2 hours driving on Saturday (to N. Chicago 'burbs, then back up to my home town in Wisconsin to visit Mom, then to the party and back home)... didn't feel achy/tired at all... seats are awesome, and my only complaint was that I had to keep turning the A/C down because it was freezing me out (while it was mid-high 90's and humid outside).

    God I love this car. Speaking of that, can anyone see the GTO in this picture below? :-)

    image
  • sputterguysputterguy Member Posts: 383
    I'm going to try to post some photos with the help of a friend (his computer, his scanner). Anyway, if it works you'll see some original 60's muscle, a 68 Firebird 400, then a 98 GTP, and then an 04 GTO. Sorry there are no chicks in the pictures.

    Image hosted by Photobucket.com

    Image hosted by Photobucket.com

    Image hosted by Photobucket.com
  • silvergoatsilvergoat Member Posts: 12
    I am pleased to join this great fraternity (I got my Silver /Red A4 Goat about three weeks ago and it is as Tony the Tiger would say, it's GRRRREEEAAATTT..!!!

    I did have a question through. I was going through the owners manual and I found a statement referring to the the remote control on the key. It states that the battery should last for about 5 years, there is not replacement for it and you must replace it.

    At about $300 or so for the key this seems absurd. Does anyone know anything this?
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    The keyfob is sealed. The actual key portion is easily removed by the two screws in the fob, but the fob does not have a replaceable battery. They've used this system in Australia for several years and they do seem to be lasting for at least 5 years. I don't believe it's $300 for the fob - more like $100 - and, if this gets to be an issue, someone like JHP or CAPA will make $$$ selling these parts to U.S. GTO owners.

    The fob needs to work in order for the immobilizer to work/the car to start, so not replacing it is not an option...

    --Robert
  • gottabgtogottabgto Member Posts: 95
    I was reading through the owners guide and am confused about having the car serviced. It seems they are saying that oil changes are annual. Can that be right? I'm at about 3k miles now and was thinking I'd take it in for an oil change.
    What service schedule are others following?
    And while I'm at it - what other services do you have done?
    Thanks for any input you can give me.
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  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Besides oil changes (had one right before picking up my replacement car, at 42 miles - switched to Mobil-1 on my '04), I had my tires rotated around 3k miles at the first oil change. There have been some poor factory alignment issues, which have caused strut rub and/or trashed tires - had my alignment checked to the revised factory specs (your dealer needs to call TAC to get them, or I can post them here) - it was out, so I had it done. I also had my tires road-force balanced, since they ended up replacing one rim due to the trading dealer's incompetence (pulled the tire and chipped the finiish on the rim - also gouged/scratched up a number of the log nut caps, instead of using the little yellow cap removal tool in the trunk).

    People are also complaining about the brake fluid looking cruddy, replacing it with Valvoline synthetic and getting much superior braking abilities (installing C5 Corvette pads on your '04 helps as well - yes, they fit). The differential gear oil also tends to sludge up - lots of folks switching that out for Royal Purple, and noticing much quieter diffs after doing so. Some are taking this further and changing out the tranny fluid/clutch fluid, as, a lot of times the factory stuff looks crappy/contaminated after 6+ months of install and shipping. My brake fluid wasn't bad, but I may change it when I put the car in storage in early November - ditto the differential fluid.

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
  • lovegtolovegto Member Posts: 23
    Thanks for the information, even though I may not comply with all your suggestions. I put about 1,400 miles a month on my car and will drive it in winter as well as summer. I have always had rear wheel drive cars except the 2000 cougar I had for the last five years. ie 72 Duster, 80 Firebird, 84 TBird and 92 Cougar. I have found that once the manufacturers came out with traction control that when combined with a bag or two of sand in the trunk that traction in the winter was not an issue even without snow tires. I would hope the GTO performs as effectively in the snow.
    I do have a question about the type of Mobil one oil to use. Exxon is advertising a long life, 15,000 mile mobil one. depending on price this should reduce costs as well as the inconvenience of changing the oil every three months. Nevertheless engine maintenance is important as I intend to own the car for at least seven years and put at least 120,000 miles on it. Since you seem to know everything about cars, do you know any of the differences in or have any preferences regarding synthetic oils?
  • elkiiielkiii Member Posts: 50
    If you have an '05 Mobil 1 is the recommeded oil. At least thats what it says in my owners manual and on the oil cap. The '05 also monitors the mileage and how the car is driven to determine oil change intervals. Don't know if this feature is available on the '04. I also don't know how well it works.

    Like Hammen I plan on putting mine in storage for the winter. Despite the limited slip and traction control 400 hp is still 400 hp. Not much fun to drive in the snow on summer tires.
  • gottabgtogottabgto Member Posts: 95
    So Robert, you are changing the oil every 3,000 (or plan to)?
    I have noticed the alignment seems to be out too so I will have that done as well as the tires rotated (with instructions to use the special tool).
    This helps greatly - thanks very much.
    Cathy
  • gottabgtogottabgto Member Posts: 95
    Hey - nice cars Sputter.
    I'm gonna have to try to post some.
  • gottabgtogottabgto Member Posts: 95
    Yes, 05 - I should have mentioned that.
    Guess I'd just rather err on the side of caution and do the oil changes more often than less - seems like it'd be better for the engine...
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    If I were in your shoes I would give some serious thought to getting some cheap rims and some dedicated snow tires. Not sure if you have the 17" or 18" wheels - the Bridgestone's on the 18's are summer-only, and, while the BFG's on the 17"'s are supposed to be an all-season tire, they do not perform well in snow. Again, strongly suggest you look at dedicated snow tires. And, here's another tip: in winter, when you turn the defrost on to defog the windows, you must also manually turn the A/C on. If you don't, you'll think the defrost isn't working (the air coming out near the corner of the windows/by the mirrors, is very weak).

    I am fortunate to still have my '98 Aurora (did not want to trade the car in - I own it free and clear, still love it, and would have received not much for it on a trade), so it's my winter car (in storage now).

    I know that Mobil now has various extended-life Mobil 1 blends. I have no experience with them, though, so right now I'm sticking with 5W30 (though some recommend 0W40 for the LS1's and LS2's). I am still kicking around buying the GM warranty, and a lot of times, they insist on no more than 4k between oil interval changes, so that's what I'll do. I bought the NAPA Gold filter (do yourself a favor, NEVER use Fram) and a 5 qt jug + 1 qt at Wally World. Was going to do it myself, but got busy and paid to have it done.

    I really don't know everything about cars - that's my cubicle mate at work, who restored his '69 Firebird convertible and is halfway through the restoration of his '69 TA. But, I do try to read/know a lot about this car (as well as the Aurora :-)

    --Robert
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I'm doing 4k for the Mobil 1. I could probably go longer, but don't want to chance any potential warranty issues.

    Regarding alignment, your profile says you're in the Bay Area. Strongly suggest you go visit Dublin Motor Sports, a Pontiac-GMC dealer. Mike White from that dealership is probably the most knowledgeable dealer guy there is on alignment and strut rub (spent a lot of time working with Pontiac regarding the issue, TAC knows the revised alignment specs).

    For those not close to the Bay Area, here are the suggested specs:
    front
    camber: -.2 plus/minus .5 (.-.7 to .3)
    caster: 7.75 degrees plus/minus 1.25 (9.00 to 6.5)
    cross caster: plus or minus .6 degrees
    toe: .17 degrees plus or minus .17 degrees (0 to .34 degrees)
    stick with something that is close to 0-.17 degrees

    rear
    camber: -1.05 plus or minus .63 (-.42 to -1.68 degrees)
    toe: .4 plus.minus .34 (.06 to .74) - very important to keep this number low.

    The rear cambers should be as positive as specs allow (-.42 degrees)
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    ...in a previous post, I mentioned replacing the pads with those from a C5 Corvette. This works on the front pads only, not the rear, so don't try that at home :-)

    I will probably do this, only when the front pads are worn. Ditto replacing the rims - I'm saving up for genuine Holden CV8-R rims (18"), which I'll put on after my stock tires are junk.

    --Robert
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    The Holden Monaro CV8-Z will be the last Monaro on the current V-platform.

    1200 will be built starting August 1, with production ending before the end of the year. It comes with sunroof, black hood scoop accents, machine-faced alloys with the CV8-Z logo embossed on one spoke, modified taillamps and gunmetal chrome CV8-Z badges. Pricing will be around $60,000 Australian dollars (about $45,000 US).

    In Australia, if you choose Fusion Orange or Phantom Black you get a Fusion instrument cluster and a Fusion and Anthracite leather trim combination.

    The other available colors in Australia are Quicksilver, Devil Yellow, and Turismo Blue, with Anthracite leather.

    The U.S. GTO will continue production until June of 2006, and be offered in the following colors/interior colors:
    Phantom Black (red/black), Quicksilver (red/black), Impulse Blue (blue/black), Cyclone Grey (black), Fusion Orange (only black in the U.S.), and Shanghai Red (black). Yellow Jacket and Midnight Blue Metallic are gone after '05, just like Cosmos Purple Metallic and Barbados Blue were gone after '04.

    Artist's illustrations of the last Monaro here:

    image
    image
  • preformancenutpreformancenut Member Posts: 22
    I am still a firm believer in the three months or three thousand mile oil changes. It will take me three years to hit 3000 miles on my 05.

    For those of you with garage cars like mine, when your car sits moisture builds up in the engine which is a bad combination. So whether your car sits or you drive alot your oil still needs changed in a timely manner.
  • preformancenutpreformancenut Member Posts: 22
    Hammen do you know what performance mods I can make to my 05 that will not void the warranty. I would assume a ram air kit would be ok but what about headers?
    I know tweaking the computer is out of the question unless you are able to change the settings back to factory specs before being serviced.

    You have been very helpful...

    Steve.
  • preformancenutpreformancenut Member Posts: 22
    I am assuming these cars have a rev limiter and not fuel shut off like the new stangs. Does anyone know exactly what rpm the rev limiter kicks in? I am hoping you can take these cars to 6700 rpm before losing power.

    In case you are wandering why i don't find out for myself i have not had time to put enough miles on my 05 6 sp. to run it that hard YET.

    Thanks for your input...

    Steve.
  • elkiiielkiii Member Posts: 50
    Well, given todays engines the and the oil that recommended you could be wasting a lot of money changing the oil every 3000 mi. But it should be changed at least once a year.

    Starting and running the engine should take care of any moisture buildup. Also, most synthetics are less prone to moisture contamination than non-synthetics.

    For '05 (I don't know about the '04) the owners manual describes how the engine oil life system works. My RSX used to just measure mileage. The system described in the manual uses engine revs and temp to determine the change. For some here I suspect the change interval could be well under 3000mi.
  • gxpgtodanmangxpgtodanman Member Posts: 210
    I change the oil on my everyday cars, every 3 months regardless of mileage and have never had a problem.

    For my antique cars I change the oil once a year, they only see 500 miles a year if that. I have never had a problem
  • kevm14kevm14 Member Posts: 423
    I have no experience with them, though, so right now I'm sticking with 5W30 (though some recommend 0W40 for the LS1's and LS2's).

    Made in Germany Castrol Syntec 0W-30 is also a very excellent oil for the Gen-III small block (actually, all of them). You have to make sure the bottle says made in germany on the back though. The USA blend stuff isn't the same! And the label has to be red, not yellow. IMO, M1 5W-30 is not the right oil for these engines (again, none of them) even though they seem to live a long time on it (then again, last time I checked, small blocks live a long time on ANY oil). If it has to be a Mobil 1 product, M1 Truck & SUV 5W-40 is a good choice. It's a really robust oil closely related to their excellent Delvac 1. Don't let the name throw you...
  • kevm14kevm14 Member Posts: 423
    The rear cambers should be as positive as specs allow (-.42 degrees)

    This will probably dial out some understeer. Was that your purpose in mentioning it?
  • kevm14kevm14 Member Posts: 423
    Starting and running the engine should take care of any moisture buildup. Also, most synthetics are less prone to moisture contamination than non-synthetics.

    Two things....if the car is in storage, starting and idling it for 20 minutes does NOT constitute burning off moisture. Actually, that will have the net result of putting MORE moisture in the oil. So for you storage people, you're better off NOT starting it all winter in that case. Second, how are synthetics less prone to collect moisture? They might be better oils so maybe the properties of the oil can keep the engine lubed better in spite of any water in there, but they can't really change how much water condenses or gets deposited in the oil.
  • lovegtolovegto Member Posts: 23
    Thanks again for the advice. I will get the snow tires and change the oil every three months. I also own an Aurora but it is a 2003 final 500 model. However I am not likely to get it from my wife, she loves oldsmobiles. She might say I can only get it from her cold dead hands. Actually I prefer the the 1998 Aurora design, it has to be one of the classiest designed cars ever made by GM almost like a jaguar in its looks.
  • sputterguysputterguy Member Posts: 383
    It took awhile but I can make out two yellow ones.

    The '04 is still a pretty fast ride, isn't it?
  • sputterguysputterguy Member Posts: 383
    Isn't the Saleen first and formost a handling and appearance package? Helluva price to pay I know.
  • sputterguysputterguy Member Posts: 383
    Thanks Cathy. Would love to see pictures of yours. You have black on black don't you?

    With my GTP (pictured above) I changed the oil every 2K. Changing it at 2K doesn't get dirty. Since I was leasing the '04 I figured I would change it at 3 months or 3K but it seems I only drive about 2K every 3 months. So I am still changing it every 2K. I change the air filter every year. It's due now but I think I am going to open up the breathing and get a K & N filter. And that's my service plan for what it's worth....
This discussion has been closed.