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Mercedes 380--450--560 SLs

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  • hscolnss1hscolnss1 Member Posts: 6
    I have an 82 560sl that was a gift to me from a family member in california. the day before I drive it back to Colorado I had to have the fuel pump and relay replaced. the service manager told me that they didn't make a 560sl in 82 and that it's a 380. I thought maybe the dealer had changed the plate to get more money for it, but after reading some of the history on this car from MB I thinking that because of the changes that had to be made ( it is a gray market) it may have changed the horsepower to a 560. Also can anyone tell me what the MPG should be for this vehicle. The car runs fantastic and I love putting it on the highway. The motor (V8) is strong and quiet.
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,708
    You must have a European (grey market) 500SL.
  • freshairfiendfreshairfiend Member Posts: 28
    According to the owner's manual you should get about 24/25 mpg on the highway if the car is a Euro 380SL. (this figure is extrapolated from the mpg shown in Imperial gallons) The US version of this car, though pretty popular and a fine cruiser, was no speedster and only produced 155 hp. The Euro version on the other hand developed 204 hp, while I believe I'm correct in saying the 560SL developed around 225hp. The Euro 380SL is also a much rarer car than most 107's as most of the gray market cars coming into N America were the six cylinder 280SL together with a smaller number of 500SL's. Hope you enjoy it for many years to come.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes definitely not a 560SL in 1982. So maybe a 500SL or a Euro 380. We'd need to know the VIN to tell you more. An older Euro 500SL would be fun as it is a lot faster than a 380.

    I'd guess that around 16 mpg would be a realistic average if you do a fair amount of highway driving. Depends a lot on how and where you drive.
  • hscolnss1hscolnss1 Member Posts: 6
    Yes the car is definitely a euro. and all the info I gathered states that it's a 380. I appreciate the info about the gas mileage. I plan on driving it on vacation this summer and what to calculate the gas expense. My driving is mixed Highway/city. I really enjoy driving it.
  • hscolnss1hscolnss1 Member Posts: 6
    Yes it is a european (gray market) car. A independent manhcanic told me that it was a 380.
  • hscolnss1hscolnss1 Member Posts: 6
    Being new to this, I truly appericate all the info. One thing I have noticed also is my climate control unit hasn't worked since I had a bad alarm system removed. Any suggestion? ( It worked fine before I had it removed.) I read over some of the pass question and I noticed one referring to the headlights. I think the european lights look better than the two round ones. Oops, one more, some one was talking about checking the vacuum hose to cruise control, Is this hose difficult to get to?
  • modelajemodelaje Member Posts: 6
    :( Please help.

    1. How do you open the fuel door on a 1979 450 SL?
    2. How do you open the hood after unlatching the inside lever?

    Many thanks to all.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,167
    The fuel door should unlock with the doors, if an open car is like a coupe or sedan. Just press on the right side, and it should pivot open.

    After unlatching the hood, lift up lightly from the grille, and a little tab should pop out - pull on this and the hood is unlocked. At least the closed cars I have owned operate like this.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Often this grill tab breaks off, so you might have to kneel down to see it if it's just a stub. The dealer still sells these things.
  • modelajemodelaje Member Posts: 6
    Thank you very much. It took a little bit of prying. But it opened.
    I put a lot of WD-40 to the spring. Now its working fine. :)
  • modelajemodelaje Member Posts: 6
    Thank you very much!
    The lever is inside the top right space of the Mercedes Benz Star ornament on the grill. Use the left hand to pull lever.

    :)
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,167
    Was your car idle for a long period?

    79 was towards the end of the 450SL run, I think those ones are less troublesome than 1975-77 models.
  • modelajemodelaje Member Posts: 6
    Hi guys.

    I am back with another question. I attempted to remove the hard top, unlocking the 4 locks, 2 on the windshield and the other 2 near the door. But the top seems to be attached in the rear at midpoint. But I couldn't find any other release lever to unsecure the rear one. Any ideas?

    Thanks again for all your help.
    :(
  • bgruberbgruber Member Posts: 8
    There is a lever under the larger lever behind the driver seat on the side of the back storage space that needs to be pulled one way or the other. This is under the lever that releases the back of the top. First you release the large lever with the knob and next the smaller one. At least this is how it works on a '73.
  • modelajemodelaje Member Posts: 6
    Hi Guys>

    Anyone knows where is the fuse box?

    Thanks for the info.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,167
    I just looked this up...it appears to be under the A-pillar on the passenger side.

    I found this image online
  • modelajemodelaje Member Posts: 6
    Thank you very much.

    It was where you said it was.

    Many thanks for your help. :)
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,167
    My pleasure
  • 80roadster80roadster Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking at a 1980 Mercedes 450SL Roadster V8, body in perfect shape, softtop less than 2 years old, miles 145,000. Mechanically it seems good,. Transmission has been rebuilt and no obvious fuel leaks. Seats could stand to be reupholstered. Asking price is $7500 Does this sound like a fair price? Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    seems a bit high since new seats are going to cost a bundle. I'd deduct seat cost from the asking price and then you should be fine. As is, maybe $5500.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    On a 29 year old Mercedes, figure the seat pads and possibly the spring frames will need replacing also.
    Check it over real good for rust.
    Make sure the climate control works acceptably.
    I'm not sure if the 4.5L had double row timing chain in 1980 or not, but if it doesn't see if it was ever replaced or if it was changed over to a double row.
    I agree with Shifty on the offer price. Don't expect it to be a reliable daily driver.
  • bgruberbgruber Member Posts: 8
    It doesn't sound way out of line, I'd off $6,500. Has much been put into it lately?
  • hscolnss1hscolnss1 Member Posts: 6
    Sir, can you tell me where you found your reproduction manual for your 81 380SL? I have a 82 380SL at least thats what a independent dealer told it was although it has a 560SL badge on it. ( yes it's a gray market car) A lot of the manuals I've seen have been for the sedans. However some of the part that I have replaced seem to be interchangable with the US 380SL models. I have the euro headlights and purchased new blubs and would like to know what needs to be removed to install them. I enjoy my MB alot and it looks very nice. ( thats because of the european style) :shades:
  • hscolnss1hscolnss1 Member Posts: 6
    The highway between denver and LA is mountains and desert. I don't speed, I don't exseed the speed limits. (My wife says I drive like Mr. Daisy) I'm at that point in my life where I just like to take my time and cruise. :shades: So can we realistic figure between 16/18 mpg on the highway?
  • freshairfiendfreshairfiend Member Posts: 28
    I have a Euro 280SL and my local Mercedes specialist shop obtained an original owners' manual for me from Mercedes themselves. Incidentally the Euro handbook covers the 500SL and the 380SL as well as the 280SL. Much of the book is common and where the differences are concerned, specialist sections are shown.The cost was around $40.00.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    16-18 at high altitude? I kinda doubt it, in that car...you may achieve that on the downward jog from the westward side of the mountains to the coast, as soon as you go below 2500 feet or so. But climbing up and over---I'm dubious.
  • tinhorse34tinhorse34 Member Posts: 5
    I have an 89 560SL. For the last couple of months consistant starting has become a problem. Sometime it starts right up and at other times, especially after I have been driving it awhile, the engine turns over but won't catch. It sound like it is trying but is not getting enough fuel. If I let it sit until the next day and try to start it, it turns right over without a problem. Since it was winter....I really didn't drive it or make figuring out the issue a real priority. Well summer is right down the road and Myrtle Beach is calling.....lol I am thinking it could be a fuel filter problem. Anyone have any thoughts or solutons on the problem ???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No, I don't think it's a fuel filter. They don't "fix themselves" overnight. What you seem to have is a "hot start" problem, which might be related to fuel pressure? It might be good to do a basic tune-up and to test the fuel pressure in the fuel rail. You may have a failing fuel pump perhaps?
  • tinhorse34tinhorse34 Member Posts: 5
    Yeah your right about not fixing themselves but I was just hoping for a easy fix....lol Okay...I will do (or should I say "have") the the pressure tested but I am not too sure about the fuel pump going out but it is a possiability one of them went bad. I say that because I just had one of them replaced last summer and have only put about 500 miles or so on the car since it was replaced but there is two....maybe the other one went bad. I also had just had the plugs, etc....replaced about 1000 ago but....I got cheep and didn't spend the 100 bucks or so to replace the wires. Thanks for the help...Let you know how it turns out.
  • bgruberbgruber Member Posts: 8
    I replaced the orginial wires on my 73 last year and it made a difference. I think these cars had a lot of problems with not starting when hot. I thought people covered the fuel lines to keep it cooler. 500 miles between repairs is pretty good.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well he could do an experiment and pour (carefully) some cold water on any fuel line that is near the engine---if the car starts right up, then it was a vapor lock issue. I do know that OLDER SLs definitely had this problem but I'm not sure 560SLs do---perhaps they never solved it.
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,708
    I thought that fuel injection solved a lot of those vapor lock problems, except when a fuel pump started to go. Then, the low pressure would allow the fuel to boil. So your advice to check the fuel system pressure would be a good first step.
  • bgruberbgruber Member Posts: 8
    Try Benzworld.org
    They have a great group of people and lots of infor.
  • bgruberbgruber Member Posts: 8
    How can you drive an SL and not put a lot into it later?
  • dbincadbinca Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1975 450SL and need to get some new exhaust manifolds. Please let me know if anyone has a sourse for some from a 1973 to 1974 model. The one's on my 1975 have the catalytic converters in the manifolds that are starting to cause problems and my mechanic recommeded replacing them from an earlier model when they were straight headers. I've not been able to find these so I would appreciate it if anyone could point me to a source.

    thanks.
  • freshairfiendfreshairfiend Member Posts: 28
    Hi dbinca,
    I'm afraid I don't have any miracle source for you but have you tried your Mercedes guy or even your local dealer? Mercedes US can sometimes surprise you with how reasonable a price they'll come up with. Of course they can give you a pretty severe reality check too, but they're always worth a try
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,167
    I don't have a source, but do a google search for MB specific salvage yards...I know there are several firms out there who break old MB, and with many 107s reaching the end of their road, I have to believe your parts won't be too hard to find. Good luck.
  • brooklynchicbrooklynchic Member Posts: 2
    Hi. I'm thinking about purchasing an 87 560sl with 124k miles on it. The seller is asking $12,900, and sent me a list of repairs that were made on it within the past 3 months. Should I be wary of moving forward with the purchase, and how do you think I should proceed when he is based in Cali while I'm living in Colorado?

    Here is a list of repairs done just three months ago:
    1)Replaced Subframe motor mounts
    2) Remove and reseal intake manifold- replacing all
    rubber seals and hoses on manifold. Replaced coolant
    and radiator cap.
    3) Replaced worn rear brake pads and rotors (installed
    performance rotors.
    4) Replaced front and rear driveshaft flex disc couplings.
    5) Replaced worn timing chain, all upper guide rails and timing
    chain tensioner plus VC gaskets. Replaced oil and filter and
    replaced spark plugs.
    6) Replaced Front and Rear Shocks
    7) Replaced window seals on hardtop and seals on "A pillars"

    Thank you for any advice you all can give me.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,167
    I wouldn't buy it sight unseen...have it inspected either personally or by a third party. It will be money well spent. The maintenance there is very positive...but it should be gone over anyway.

    The miles are not low for one of those...unless it is exceptional cosmetically, I'd try to get it down around 10K.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited July 2010
    I agree, $10,000 is more than enough for this car with this mileage on it (I did a search of 66 of these for sale around the USA, with "over 100K" as a search modifier, and private party sellers as another modifier, and the average ASKING price was $10.9K.

    Also you need to have the car inspected in CA before you buy it---there are a lot of 560SL rats out there, and remember, a bad engine totals this car.

    Ideally, this is the type of car you want to buy with very low miles, perhaps one owner, full service records, and for which you will no doubt pay a premium price well over $10K and perhaps as much as $15K--$18K

    WELL WORTH IT.
  • brooklynchicbrooklynchic Member Posts: 2
    thank you both, fintail, and mr_shiftright for your insight! i will be moving out to LA in the next few weeks. do either of you have any suggestions as to where i should begin to look for an honest mechanic in the oakland area?

    thanks again!
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,708
    The highest final bid price on 560SLs with over 100k on Ebay is $9400. Kinda wonder about the timing chain replace - is that normal? I'd worry about insufficient oil changes.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited July 2010
    Call up Fantasy Junction in Emeryville (classic/exotic car dealer right next to Oakland) and ask them who they recommend in that area.
  • merc85merc85 Member Posts: 8
    I'm not sure if my post went out earlier so I will try again. I have an 85 380 SL. IT was my father's since new and now I have it. Recently there have been two items causing concern. (1) the uncontrolled high revs that happen without notice. (2) The passenger side tail light seems to be brighter than the rest of the lights in that lens. (3) the passenger side directional signal flashes quickly ... generally this is an indication that a bulb is out yet I have checked and no bulb is burned out.

    Is there anyone out there that might have a solution for any one of or all three of these problems?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    the bulb issues are probably related to bad grounds or corrosion in the bulb sockets or connecting wiring tabs.

    The high revs sound like a fuel injection issue related to idle control---I'm guessing some device that is leaking vacuum or has a sticking actuator. I'd need to get the workshop manual out to pinpoint but a good MB man should know pretty quick what causes this exactly.
  • merc85merc85 Member Posts: 8
    I really appreciate your insight ... I am not a "mechanical" type so I get a little overwhelmed.

    This car was my fathers in 1985. I stood with him on the showroom floor when he bought it so it has a lot of emotion in it ... especially now that I am losin g him to cancer. Everytime I take it to someone they all say they have fixed it and I still get the same problem ... so I guess for me, I just have to try to find someone around that can really do the work properly. From what you are sayin, it doesn't sound like it could be THAT difficult to fix.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well as cars age many younger mechanics don't take the time to study the older cars and their peculiar systems. It is possible for a simple thing to be hard to track down....once you KNOW what it is, it's "simple", but finding it, sometimes not so simple. What part of the country are you in? Maybe I can refer you to someone who knows their head from their.....elbow......
  • merc85merc85 Member Posts: 8
    You're sooo right!

    I'm in West Vancouver, BC Canada. I have taken it to MB North Shore, MB, Vancouver as well and still no help so ... I'm open to just about anyone ... I am mobile so distance isn't a big problem.

    I'm actually considering having the whole car restored "frame off" over this coming winter. It is in very good shape as it is but it is 25 years old ... I will keep this in the family and it will at some point be given to another appreciative family member ... not to soon though I hope!
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,708
    "frame off" means a huge amount of money, you may be better off finding a good MB mechanic and have him go over it with a fine-toothed comb. You'd be surprised how well it can turn out. I'd have to think there are a few good ones in Vancouver.
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