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3rd Generation Toyota 4Runners 1996 to 2002
I just bought a '96 4runner with 150k miles. It's a 5 speed and I noticed right off the bat that in order to start the car the clutch has to pushed in very hard to get the engine to crank. Is there an adjustment of the switch that won't allow the engine to crank unless the clutch is depressed? I know I can override the clutch-in-to-start feature with the button on the dash.
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If it were replaced, I wonder if the new one would be the same way. Certainly on other models that I have worked on with clutch safety switches like this one, there has been no adjustment for the switch.
Wow, so we 3rd-genners now have our own thread and everything? Cool. :-P
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The check engine light keeps coming on. I had the codes read and it came up with a PO171 which they said was 'System Too Lean Bank 1'. The parts store said to replace the oxygen sensor before the cat. I changed it and the light comes back on after about 20 miles. The truck seems to run fine. It has 77k miles. Any ideas what this could be. I don't want to keep changing parts.
Granted, O2 sensors are the most likely component to fail, there is still other things to look at.
Clogged/dirty injectors can create all sorts of drivability problems even though the vehicle seems to run OK.
Have you ever had the injectors cleaned? If not, go to your local Target or auto parts store and find a product called Chevron Techron Fuel Injection Cleaner. It's the best out there! Run your tank almost empty and add the cleaner (per instructions) and fill your tank with a good premium gas; Amoco Ultimate works well. Drive till the tank is close to empty and see if this corrects the problem.
An "open" or a "short" in the heated O2 sensor (sensor 1/bank 1) circuit can cause this code.
Mass Air Flow meter can also generate this code along with a faulty or weak Engine Coolant Temperature sensor.
Find someone with a decent scanner that can read the wave pattern of an O2 sensor to make sure it's operating correctly. Also check the circuit for "opens" or "shorts".
Do the same for the Coolant and Mass Air Flow sensors.
Good luck and hope this helped!
I also wonder why you don't have to push the clutch down as hard now as before - is it because you didn't use a Toyota clutch kit? And what did you repalce in the clutch job? Just the pressure plate, or other stuff too?
Lastly, you say it chatters when you are out of gear, or "in gear and not on the gas but as soon as you touch the pedal it goes away". If you are in gear but not on the gas, you must have the clutch out, right? So you are already touching the pedal. Or did you mean the gas pedal?
I have noticed that when mine is idling in neutral, no feet on any pedals, the transmission (specifically the clutch throw-out bearing, I suspect) is not totally silent, but I wouldn't call the sound it makes a "chatter". It is more like a slight whistle, for lack of a better word.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
abbylou, mine sure isn't worth $33K (2000 SR5 V-6 4WD), but I do take it offroad. Haven't done too much serious yet, am thinking of lifting it later on. Anyway, point is when it comes to the brakes, "heavy duty" means towing like you do. I can imagine that the brakes in this thing feel a bit scary on high-speed downhill grades with 3000 pounds behind you pushing you forward. The TRDs should do one really important thing much better than the stock brakes: dispel heat. The stock rotors tend to warp a bit too easily and fade more than I would like if you stand on them repeatedly down a long fast grade (coming out of Tahoe or Yosemite on the east side is what always makes me take notice of this).
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Also slightly unrelated to the title. my stock alarm has a range of about thirty feet at best. Has anyone had this problem? I've already replaced the battery to no avail.
I am going to put it through its paces in a couple of weeks, the first available weekend. :-)
fadymoussallem: sorry, wish I could help, but I had mine programmed by the dealer. :-(
If it's any consolation, they didn't charge much - maybe you might want to do the same.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
jack
we've been having with our 2001 4Runner. After
switching off the ignition, the car refuses to
release the ignition key. The key can be turned
almost but not quite all the way to the left, and
cannot be removed.
I believe that I am being tripped up by some sort
of safety device--although the transmission is in
park and the dashboard indicator agrees, some sensor
thinks the car is in gear and won't allow the
ignition to turn all the way to the left.
I am able to release the key by removing fuse #35
(AM1) which controls part of the starting system.
Is anyone familiar with this problem? Is it indeed a
sensor, or the ignition itself, or what? And is
it fixable by an incompetent shade tree mechanic
(yours truly) or do I need to take it to a shop?
Thanks in advance, and sorry if this is covering
old ground.
This is probably a sensor somewhere, rather than a hardware problem, I would guess. It is probably the kind of thing you should take to a shop, rather than trying to fix yourself.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Once in a while at start up, there is a huge puff of smoke,(big enough that people nearby would think it was the biggest clunker on the planet), that goes away in a few seconds. Never smokes while driving.
Other than that the truck runs perfectly
I changed the pcv valve last week and had no improvement. I was also told that I do not have sludge in the engine...
Other than replacing the engine, what are my options?
Please give me some hope!!!
And that huge puff of smoke? That is where your oil is going, every time you start the thing, even at the times when it does not puff or smoke during driving.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
They can test it to see if in fact that is where the oil is going, but short of you missing a MASSIVE leak, there really aren't many other places it could be going...
And by the way, I should add it is quite likely it was already doing this when you bought it, and in fact that's probably why they were selling it. This isn't a problem that comes on overnight. So if you bought it from, like, a family member or something, you should go give them heck!
Did you ever check your oil before you noticed the problem last week or whatever? If not, you may have been running around almost dry at times.
Oh yeah, and before anything else, be sure you are following proper form. The truck should be level when you check the oil, and if you have just run the engine, you should let it sit a couple of minutes so that the oil can drain back into the sump. Lastly, if you had a recent oil change, check that the drain plug is properly sealed, and that the oil filter was not improperly installed and is not defective. If either is leaking at the kind of rate you have described, there will be fresh oil all over the place near those items.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The 3rd gen Runner is more versatile for carrying cargo, has proper carpets and insulated panels instead of hard plastic or rubber everywhere, and is much more maneuverable in tight spaces. Plus it has timeless good looks, where the FJ will be "Look at me. No, really, LOOK AT ME!" for a few years and then will be a fad past its prime.
The only serious advantage of the FJ is its Torsen vs the center locker or ATRAC of the older Runners.
And hey, despite the 31" vs 32" thing, didn't the Runner have better static ground clearance than the FJ does?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
No doubt the 3rd gen 4R is a great truck.
But I've got a problem with the electric antenna. I know what the problem is - but I want to disconnect the motor feed for now so that it remains up all the time. Does anyone know how to disconnect the power to the motor. I checked the fuse scematics - but could not find one for it.
Thanks
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
OK, It'll start to turn over when the key goes from "off" to "start" but from "on" to "start" I get nothing but the starter turning. I feel the initial turning of the key is pressurizing the line(via the "new fuel pump") and from the "on" to "start" manuver there's no pressure.
any ideas? anyone? anyone? Bueller? Bueller? :confuse:
Didn't break anything, found the stock suspension to have as much travel as the modified offroad suspension I had installed on my older Runner. Yet despite having better travel it also had better control, so the ride was less jittery even when I was just pounding across open scrubland. I was originally intending to replace the stock suspension and lift it just as soon as the payments were done (another year), but now I am thinking I might wait a while on that.
Another pleasant surprise was the steering. They switched from recirculating ball (truck-style) to rack and pinion (car-style) after '95, and I had heard that the more precise r-and-p was nice on the road but kicked back too much off the road and especially over the rocks. However, I found it to be more damped than expected. The only question mark in my mind is the long-term durability vs recirculating ball, where more play is built into the system so that it doesn't take quite such a beating over the rocks. My old truck was on its original steering except for the pump at 220K miles.
All that, and it managed 21 mpg for the day, where my old truck (also a V-6 4x4 manual) would struggle to break 17 mpg in a full day of four-wheeling.
2000 V-6 4WD, last year of the manual shift.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I am in northern California. There's a lot of fun to be had in the mountains north of here, or the Sierra of course. I like going over on the Reno side and looking for old mines on the enormous stretches of BLM lands on that side. :shades:
I don't commute in mine, so there's no worries there. I have always preferred the stick offroad, but I know that everyone's personal preference will be different there.
My little trip last weekend reminded me I have to take off the running boards at the earliest opportunity! I know, I know, DUH, right? But I kinda like the look of them on there - I saw another 3rd-gen with them off and short people can see right under this truck with them off. I never noticed that effect with my old one.
Anyway, I am thinking that if/when I get back into rock-hopping, I will definitely lift it and put on larger tires than the 32"ers that come standard. But I don't think I will be doing anything like that AT LEAST until the payments are done. For everything else, seems like factory stock suspension and tires will mostly get the job done without getting anything damaged. Toyota used to give you a heck of a lot of offroad capability right out of the box in their SUVs. Now I guess you have to buy a Tacoma TRD to get to the same level.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Three weeks ago I was driving on the expressway, when I accelerated to change lanes, the car began to shake and the engine lost power. The engine light came on. When I pulled off the road, the oil light came on too. The engine quickly seized up and stopped. There was oil and radiator fluid mixed together on the road under the car.
I had it towed to the Toyota dealer (Kings Toyota in Cincinnati) where I bought it new and which did my service. I suspected a blown connecting rod. The dealer confirmed that the engine must be replaced. Incredible!! I bought this 4Runner for its advertised quality and reliability. I had a Jeep for 140k miles before this. Also had Honda, Nissan, Toyota and Chevy for 100k+ miles.
When the problem first surfaced (which initially I thought was only a blown engine), I called the Toyota Customer Care toll free number in CA. This (or any) engine does not fail after only 78,000 miles unless it is defective or not cared for. I had all service according to the manual at the dealer. I am the original owner. Toyota Customer Care told me I must work through the dealer Customer Service Rep. So, I immediately contacted the dealer Cust. Service Rep, who then had the Toyota District Sales and Parts Manager (DSPM) (Ron) for my area look at the car. Two weeks ago the Toyota DSPM apparently inspected the car and told the dealer he would give $1000 toward a new engine -- net $8000 installed per my dealer. A used engine is only $4500 so I chose to go with the used engine and continue to try to work out with Toyota.
This week they started to remove the old engine and I learn that I need a transmission too -- another $3200! The dealer is telling me that the connecting rod broke, was thrown through the block and into the transmission -- needs both an engine and transmission (~ $8k). I went to see it 2 days ago and met with the mechanic and service manager. When I asked what would cause this premature failure (I already knew) the mechanic said that he did not want to accuse me of anything but did I ever change the oil. It was easy for me to say yes -- the dealer (you) changed it over the years including 3 times this year in Jan, May and 30 days before the failure! He said that's about the only way he knew it could fail.
I immediately spoke to the Customer Care rep at the dealer (Kings Toyota in Cincinnati) who told me to call the Toyota Customer Care person in CA again because the dealer could not do anything more. The Toyota Customer Care person told me that I must resolve this with the dealer or the Toyota DSPM for this area. Toyota also told me no one, not even the CEO of Toyota could overrule the decision of the DSPM -- ridiculous. The dealer told me to work through Toyota so I am getting jerked around. My neighbors and friends -- some who bought Toyotas from my dealer at my recommendation -- are shocked that Toyota will not take care of this problem.
I need to contact the Toyota DSPM; I know his first name is Ron, but nothing else. Toyota Customer Care said they did not know who the DSPM was for my area but to contact the dealer and it could tell me. I have left messages at the dealer for this contact info but now radio silence. Anybody have any names/address/phone of a person at Toyota where they had success resolving a problem?? Any other suggestions for getting help from Toyota?
Do you do any fluid checking yourself, or leave it strictly up to the dealership? The reason I ask is I am wondering if you know whether the last service was perhaps done improperly. The quickie lubes at Toyota dealerships are not done by the staff that do the other maintenance and repairs. They are done by high school kids to keep the cost and time down so they can compete with Jiffy Lube and the like. Negligence on the dealer's part would be my guess, although it is certainly possible you got a bad engine. It IS an engine series well-known for its durability though, so that would be a surprise.
edit...PS it is probably worth the price of a tow to get a second opinion, if you haven't already done that. But wait until you get the regional rep to look at it first.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I have had a couple of automatics in the past, which I have fixed myself, but I am by no means an expert. The older ones could begin to get out of adjustment as they aged, meaning they weren't in gear even though the shifter inside the car looked like it was in drive. These days, the light on the dash should tell you if it is in drive or not, as it is all computer-controlled now.
Pay attention to the way it shifts for a couple of weeks. Look for hard or abrupt shifting, or further delays in going into gear when you shift it. If you can't detect any further problems, then I think you're right: it truly was a one-time glitch.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks!
My '00 doesn't have the factory locker, and I wonder if the factory part can still be ordered and installed by the dealer at this late date.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Does anyone have any good places to get parts and accessories for my truck? I believe the stock wheels on it are 15", what do you guys recommend? I'm thinking of getting 17". Also it does not have Keyless entry and I really am trying to figure out if I can get it or not. I wanted the Toyota kit so I can remotely roll down the back window. Any ideas/thoughts are much appreciated!
As for performance, mine is quicker than his despite the smaller engine in the 4runner. And for off-roading, well, my Dad taught me to drive off-road and he taught me that the driver makes more difference than the vehicle. I stand by this to this day.
There is my two cents.
Anyone have info on adding the rr diff lock to a 98 5 speed please let me know. I know with some toyota vehicles with options like this, they actually install the hardware (such as the locker in the pumpkin itself) on all vehicles but leave the switch and wiring harness out then charge alot to install the switch and harness. They did this on a few options on the FJ.