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Subaru Forester Engine problems

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Comments

  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Sounds to me like the oil was too thick. What grade are you using? How long did you let it sit at idle "warming up" :confuse:
  • yu203964yu203964 Member Posts: 35
    I use 5w30 and it was changed with oil filter and air filter at the end of last month. I normally do not warm up, i.e. I just start and go. But this morning, when I found the CEL was blinking, I gave a little gas and hoped it would be gone. But it didn't. After about a minute, I drove away. Then after about one km., it's gone.
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    So, that tells us if you use the precaution, as you should do with any vehicle, of warming it up for 3-5 minutes, in very cold weather, before driving, the lubricants would be free-flowing. ;)

    You might want to switch, in Winter, to 0-30...
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    A blinking CEL indicates an engine misfire condition and should not have anything to do with the weight of the oil.

    -Brian
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Brian,

    So far as I know, it is a multi-function indicator, and engine mis-fire isn't the only reason it would be on. Check the Owners Manual....
  • yu203964yu203964 Member Posts: 35
    I think Brian is right. According to p. 3-11 of the manual: "If the light blinking while driving, an engine misfire condition has been detected which may damage the emission control system. To prevent serous damage..... The CHECK ENGINE warning light may stop blinking and come on steadily after several driving trips. You should have your vehicle checked by an authorized SUBARU dealer immediately."

    This is the whole part regarding blinking light. The other part is related to CEL staying on steadily.

    If it's engine misfire, can anyone confirm if this is under major component warranty?

    This morning when I started the car, the CEL did not blink nor come on. Please note that the temperature I used was Celsius and not Fahrenheit. This morning it's 2C, i.e. about 35.6F, which was colder than last two mornings, which were around 6-10C, i.e. 43-50F. So I don't think cold weather is the reason. I'll update the situation after I go to the dealer tomorrow morning.
  • yu203964yu203964 Member Posts: 35
    The dealer said the CEL was due to ignition coil. It charged me C$408 + taxes for the replacement. Is this price reasonable? Is it normal to need replacement for just 4 years and 60K km?
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    As I posted, and as Lithia Subaru just told me, it is a multi-function light, not one that merely indicates engine misfire.
  • yu203964yu203964 Member Posts: 35
    According to the scan result, the fault code was P0301 Cyl #1 misfire. The reason for the misfire was the defective ignition coil.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    We need the codes to know for sure, but ignition coil is likely, or ignition wires, or spark plugs. All those things can create a misfire condition (blinking means the condition occurs repeatedly).

    A new ignition coil costs about $80 and there's only one, so it's not that expensive.

    $400 sounds high to me. I've replaced one in less than an hour, it's not hard. It's right at the top of your engine, where the spark plug wires end.

    See if they changed the wires or anything else.

    -juice
  • gouldngouldn Member Posts: 220
    I have had my 01 S+ Forester since new, and it now has 108K on it. Today it had it's first breakdown, and it turned out to be head gaskets. I'm going to have them repaired, along with the timing belt (since the car will have its engine out anyways), and then sell the car with a good feeling about it.

    I'm a little bummed that this happend, but any car with >=100K seems to be candidate for major repairs.

    I have a 05 Accord EX6 Coupe to drive, but recently we bought a new dog, so I'll probably sell both cars to get something that gives me a smooth, fast ride with some level of utility. I'm leaning towards either a 6 Cyl RAV, or a Legacy GT wagon.

    Overall this was great car, and I would recommend it, I just don't like to own cars as they get older and more problematic.
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    I think you need a new Baja! :)
  • stina218stina218 Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced the battery in my 2002 Forester, and today my "Check Engine" light came on and stayed on. I tried tightening the gas cap, to no avail. I got cheap gas the last time I filled up ( I know. I'm going to car owner hell, but I'm a teacher. Not a lot of money in the budget for premium.) Could that be the cause? Also, I don't know if this means anything but some of the lights inside the car, like for the defrost, haven't been coming on. Lastly, my seat warmers feel like they're always on. Could it be a spark plug issue that is making my check engine light come on? How much should I expect my mechanic to charge me to replace spark plugs. I'm that totally clueless girl, and don't want to get ripped off. Thanks!
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    I would start checking the battery connections for tightness and contact--especially the ground. There might also be a fuse that is loose or blown.

    Plugs are about a 1 hour job, I would hope out of good faith that the job didn't come to more than $100. If you are in the Fresno area holler at me I will do it at no cost. Least I can do considering how much work my two boys have caused teachers over the years :)

    Your Forester will run just fine on 87 octane. I always get ARCO as it is the cheapest.

    Seat warmers always on? Haven't a clue.

    John
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    I agree, that it could be a short problem. Also agree, gas is indeed gas. Chevron or Shell is no better than the low price station, and it often is exactly the same gas from the same pumper truck.

    Even your local Subaru dealer should be willing to plug into it and tell you what the trouble codes are for nothing. The check engine lite is programed to come on for major maintenance, as a reminder.

    When posting here about issues, always make sure you specify the mileage, and in the case of a Subaru Forester, if it is Turbo or not. ;)

    With several things going on, it does seem to be electrical, and if the seat heaters are on, the lights on the switches should be lit.

    Take it to the dealer, it might be something simple. If not, they can easily diagnose, and you can decide what issues to fix first, second, and all of that, and where. ALL teachers are on a budget, we know that, let us know what the outcome was! Just by posting you already have an offer of help from a user nearby. :)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm not sure where you live, but 99% of places will charge you $90 just to connect it up to the OBDII computer.

    As for plugs, $100 would be the min amount, it's a royal PITA to change em on most subies (except my XT6)

    -mike
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Mike,

    Sometime you just have to learn to face facts, man! You guys in NY are used to being ripped off, lol. :P

    If a dealer charged me for that, I would never do business with them again. Out West we don't think much of those business practices...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    We need more info - the error codes would help a lot.

    mike is right, most dealers will charge $88 or so just to reda the code for you.

    You can buy an OBD2 scanner for that much, and read codes forever.

    But even better, find someone local that has one, and borrow theirs. I have one, if you're in the DC/MD area I can show you how to use it and read/reset that code.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Every dealer charges for diagnostic time. I don't care where you live! I don't consider it "ripped off" everyone's time is worth money, why should I get something for "free" when I am in fact getting a service done?

    Autozone does it for free, but that is just about the only place I've ever seen a free OBD II scan. Most places will take the diag cost off your bill if you get the repair done by them.

    -mike
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    If it is taken off the bill, it is free, no? You then go on to say Autozone does it for free, and yet you still keep saying its "about the only" place. Well, at least you give a little, Mike. :P

    Trak Auto does that as well, and I have even had the Manager of a Pep Boys do it.

    How far will you guys go to make yourself right? My Subaru dealer, my Mercedes dealer, have never charged me to put the code reader on one of my cars, if I suspect something is wrong. Now, I might have to wait, if they are busy, or bring it back, but my experience isn't what yours has been.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I called the nearest Autozone and they told me they would not do it. Oh well, bought a scanner somewhere else for less, and don't regret it.

    Used it that time, then once on my wife's car (just a gas cap), and for two friends of mine. 4 times already.

    -juice
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    The code reader scanner is worth the price for today's automobiles. Juice, you already saved the price in just the few uses!

    Autozone here scans, as does the Trak Auto. And of course, both sell the devices.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I have one for the shop and we will scan people's cars for them, but we don't make it a habit of doing it for free as it can become quite the PITA having folks come down get scanned, then go fix their car on their own. That's why I don't take issue with folks who charge and then back that out of the repair bill, since most businesses I know aren't charity organizations and the general public is really cheap who would take advantage of the free service and abuse it.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You're absolutely right, mike.

    But...in my wife's case, it was an Evap code, i.e. loose gas cap. I would hate to have to pay to find that out. I think a case like that should be free.

    Others that need a repair should obviously stick with the place that helped them scan it in the first place.

    -juice
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    there's no free lunch, anywhere.

    Even though my buddy with a CEL on his pickup is willing to buy me lunch for a scan, it's still 15 mins + of both our times.

    Pick up you own, you can get a basic unit from Amazon for about $50. The P0174 on my Mazda MPV that indicated a lean burn condition on bank 2, ended up being a dirty Mass Air Flow sensor. An $8 can of MAF cleaner from NAPA took care of the problem.

    Basic DIY, I am all for it. After that, fork over the big bucks (hopefully the big Subaru Bucks at that).

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It took you 15 minutes? My scanner can read and reset a code in under 1 minute.

    Once you know where the plug is, it's easy to hook it up.

    -juice
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    right, the actual process is only a couple minutes. But looking up the code in the manual, and digging deeper to find the real issue....that is the time factor.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    OK, that makes sense.

    I just did a quick web search, found the code and people reported causes being the spark plug wires and the ignition coil.

    Guess what? Found some wires had been chewed up. Probably by a chip munk I've seen coming from under the hood more than a few times.

    Replaced those, and the code never came back.

    -juice
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Chipmunks, or Rats! Ugly things.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Well, what I've seen under my car are chipmunks. I actually photographed one to prove it to myself. :surprise:

    -juice
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    You just needed a less tasty wiring harness, that's all. :P
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    wdb had his wires chewed up as well. Subaru needs to stop basting the wires in au jus sauce. :D

    -juice
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    I am told blood meal (used to amend soil in gardens), sprinkled under and around where you park, will deter the little pests.
  • bluvettebluvette Member Posts: 5
    I also have experienced this with my 06 forester. When I spoke to the service advisor he had no explanation. I found that if I push the accelerator down before driving off it would not rev up. Like older cars were required to be kicked down from high idle.
  • bluvettebluvette Member Posts: 5
    As a 1st time subaru owner I was shocked when my 06 forester was warming up in the driveway on our winter morning. I first thought the exhaust was rattling, but found the noise to be coming from under the hood. I was concerned, so I shut it off and checked the oil level, it was fine. After it warmed up it the clatter went away. I do not think this is normal? It does this every morning now that the temps are freezing (below 32) The oil and filter has been replaced as recomended and is quality 5w30.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    Mine clatters as well. :confuse And after the engine warms up the clatter goes away. I'm wondering if it is the power steering or water pump, but I really don't know and haven't tried to find out.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    When they are cold they make noise below freezing til they are warmed up. Try 0w30 goood stuff.

    -mike
  • kavoomkavoom Member Posts: 181
    >>Mine clatters as well. :confuse And after the engine warms up the clatter goes away. I'm wondering if it is the power steering or water pump, but I really don't know and haven't tried to find out.<<

    LOL, what you are experiencing is a well known phoenomena with Subaru's. Don't worry about it unless there is something else going on. It appears to be just a "noisy" characteristic of the Boxer engine.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Thanks for the tip, if I see them again I'll seek some out.

    -juice
  • bluvettebluvette Member Posts: 5
    Do you use 0w30? What temps. do you experience, I like this idea!
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Good for Wabbits, too Juice. ;)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd use it in subies anywhere that you get temps in the low 40s or lower. I ran it in my Subie during the summer a few times w/o ill effect.

    -mike
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Blood Meal? :surprise:
  • jschedlerjschedler Member Posts: 3
    First time poster:

    1998 Forester, 2.5, auto trans, 117k miles. Driving along, fully warmed up, outside temp about 25 degrees F, Coolant temp was normal, going about 40 mph. All of a sudden AT Oil Temp light starts to flash and the Service engine light comes on solid. On a country road so I pull over to the side. All seemed normal except for the SE and AT Oil Temp lights.

    I drove another tenth of a mile or so to a &#147;flatter spot&#148; to check the trans fluid. Left her running in park and pulled the trans dipstick which is difficult at best on this vehicle. As I was putting the dipstick back in, the engine stalled. After that, all it would do is start, rev up to about 1800 rpm, come down to an idle and fumble at idle and stall. It will do this consistently. I&#146;ve started and watched it stall about 20 times.

    Had to Flatbed her home.

    My genius son rang the code out and then erased it. It came out as a P0103, Mass Air, High Input. I have started this car no less than 20 times and it consistently goes up to fast idle and comes down to idle, fumbles and dies. The SE Light has not come back on and the Airflow Data looks OK on my scanner during this short running period.

    Any ideas?
  • jschedlerjschedler Member Posts: 3
    Got her running!

    Checked mounting of crank and cam sensors.
    Checked to make sure EGR valve was not hanging open.
    Pulled Fuel filter: had a small amount of water in it but filter only has about 16K on it.

    Threw a new fuel filter on anyway. Cycled key a few times to fill new filter. Started car and it ran longer than usual before stalling, about 15 to 20 seconds. During these 15 or so seconds, the SE Light came on and the AT Oil Temp light started flashing. I scanned out the codes, P0103 with a P0102 pending code. Both codes point to the MAF sensor.

    I went to the wrecking yard during the day today and rescued the MAF out of the previously pristine 1995 Legacy that my daughter rolled almost a year ago. You would not believe she walked away from that car without a scratch. I cleaned the MAF Sensor and installed it in my air cleaner box. The PN was a match. Well, close enough.

    Started it up and she race up to about 1500 rpm and slowly came down. Both lights, SE and AT Oil Temp (flashing) were still on. I cancelled the codes with the scan tool but did not know what to do with the flashing AT Oil Temp light. For giggles, I shut her down and waited about the length of the Jeopardy theme and restarted her. The AT Oil Temp light was out. I road tested her and all is well with the world.

    My only two questions now are:

    Isn&#146;t there supposed to be a limp home mode so you don&#146;t have to call for a tow?

    What&#146;s was the deal with the AT Oil Temp light flashing?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Bizarre story, but at least there is a happy ending.

    Given the mileage, I would suspect the spark plug wires if they are original. I'm on my 2nd set, you're close to needing your 3rd set.

    If it still has stalling issues, I'd look to spark or fuel. You were spot-on with the fuel-filter, and for spark I'd look to, in order:

    * spark plug wires
    * spark plugs
    * ignition coil

    Don't be intimidated by the 3rd, they're just $80 for the OE part and it only takes one.

    No idea about the AT Oil Temp light, it almost seems unrelated.

    -juice
  • jschedlerjschedler Member Posts: 3
    Subietech on another forum stated that the AT Oil
    Temp light flashing is related to the MAF and that there is no limp home mode for a MAF failure.

    Wires are less than a year and 10,000 miles old.

    She runs good now but I have the 2.2 MAF in it. I am ordering the correct OEM MAF from Subaru

    All codes in this case were MAF related. Early on in this affair, (Tuesday) I did procure the factory manual info to trouble-shoot the MAF Sensor but with my real life middle name being Thomas, I doubted the result that told me the MAF was in fact bad.

    All is well now. I mainly posted the follow-up in order to help others with a similar probem. Online research for this problem, which was a little help, uncovered horror stories from people with similar issues but no resolution.

    Thanks for the reply.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Shouldn't be related to the MAF. It should only have to do with the transmission.

    -mike
  • bluvettebluvette Member Posts: 5
    The dealers diagnosis was piston slap, and gave me a service bulletin saying it was normal and would not cause any damage.
    This annoyance was resolved after a negative maint. survey was sent in. The dealer contacted me and wanted to look at it again. They ended up changing the cam tensioner, pulley and the cam belt. The noise is now gone, forever I hope.
  • compensatecompensate Member Posts: 212
    We bought a used 2001 Forester S that was supposed to be in "mint" condition a few weeks ago. It drove great for about 2 hours until the engine temp gauge began rising. Long story short, mechanic said it was a head gasket problem.

    I read the early posts on this thread about this issue with inferior head gaskets on some on the 1999-2001 (or 2002) Foresters, but I wanted to know of someone had detailed info on what it was that the dealers added to the coolant to "fix" this problem.

    Was it some sort of "stop leak" stuff? Was it aluminum pellets?

    Does anyone know if this was just a way for Subaru to get the car past the "extended" warranty period without having to shell out big bucks for lots of engine rebuilds?

    By the way, this same "mint" Forester needed a new rear wheel bearing - $450! It also needed an alignment (toe was WAY off), new tires and moonroof has mechanical problems (sticks, won't open). Sigh!
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