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Subaru Forester Engine problems

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Comments

  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    This repeatable problem is the easiest one for the dealer to diagnose. Take the car back to the dealer, leave it overnight and let the dealer fix the problem. Why have you not done that?

    What are the "many" problems you are experiencing? Is the dealer not willing to fix the car?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like it could be a timing issue. Perhaps the belt is stretching when warm to the correct spot?

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • ahfisherahfisher Member Posts: 1
    I've got a used 2002 Subaru Forester with about 57K (only about 3K of which are mine). It ran fine when we bought it, but several weeks later it developed a sporadic problem with engine hesitation and misfires. It's gotten progressively worse since then, and about a week ago the CEL came on for a bit and then went off again.

    My mechanic changed the plugs, wires, and air filter (all of which had to be done anyway), but that didn't fix the problem. He also checked the intakes and the fuel pressure, which seems normal, and then he tried a new coil pack. That didn't make a difference either. The reader isn't giving him any codes, except an error message he can't identify, and he thinks the problem is in the main computer. Any thoughts before I take it to the dealer?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It does sound like your mechanic is checking the right things, in fact I would have done the same thing, in that specific order.

    I'm puzzled that he can't read the codes, though? :confuse:
  • johnvjohnv Member Posts: 40
    After some more driving I've conclusively seen this happen. I was able to reproduce it a couple of times with the following scenario: driving on a flat road, accelerate away from a stop up into 3rd gear, push in the clutch fully and coast w/o brake. As soon as I push in the clutch, the RPMs drop to 1k and then after a second they slowly rise to ~2k over ~3 seconds. Then it falls back to 1k and the pattern seems to repeat (until I have to brake for the next stop sign).

    It doesn't seem to do this at a full stop or on a slight uphill grade and it doesn't happen every time regardless. Today the engine was pretty cool: ~60F out + ~10min drive + ~20min park + ~5min drive.

    It must the computer telling the throttle to do something -- keep the catalytic hot?
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    The only time the engine should be idling fast is when it's still cold (or thinks it is). Where's the needle on the temp gauge when this happens?

    As long as the clutch is fully depressed, it doesn't matter whether you're completely stopped or coasting at 80 mph, the engine should be at idle speed (750 rpm).

    -Frank
  • frstr08frstr08 Member Posts: 2
    I have the exact problem with a 98 Forester S AT with 102k miles. I took my car to the dealer the first time the CEL came on and they diagnosed the problem as Cyl 1 misfire and replaced the spark plugs. The car was fine for a few days and then the problem came back at a stop light. I am able to easily replicate the problem by getting the engine warm and then stopping - like you would at a stop light. The hesitation is so bad that the car shakes.

    I have seen in other forums that the problem is with the ECM. Did any of you experiencing these problems arrive at the same conclusion? I would appreciate an update if anyone has found a resolution to this - will save me more costly dealership visits.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If you've only done the plugs so far, I would change the plug wires, too, which are usually a 60k miles item, and then the ignition coil (about $80 at a wholesaler).

    Either of those could be causing the misfire.
  • frstr08frstr08 Member Posts: 2
    I took the Car to Autozone yesterday to scan codes and got the same code as before P0301. Also this morning as I was driving in stop and go traffic, I got the same hesitation and the CEL came on. I will take the car back to dealer this week and have the above items replaced.
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    Well, I've been away a long, long while, but life is good with us. We still own the 01 Forester S+ that brought us to these fine forums, and replaced our 03 MPV with an 05 Outback XT last fall.

    Pleased to see so many old posters still haunting these parts: subearu, juice, paisan and the rest.

    I trust the recent past has been good to all of you.

    In addition to wanting to reconnect, we unfortunately have need for your advice. The Forester has developed a CEL that appears to be related to outside temperature. Drive more than a few miles with the outside temps below 40 or so, and the light comes on. A few days above 45 and it goes out again.

    I had the code pulled, and it was a P0128 - "Engine coolant temperature sensor out of range low."

    The dashboard engine temp gauge does indeed look to run a little on the low side, but it's hard to tell.

    What does that sound like to you guys? Thermostat? I'm told those "never go out".

    We had a fender bender last summer, so that everything from the fan belts forward is new. We're coming up on 8 years of ownership, and have enjoyed 78k otherwise trouble-free miles.

    Thanks in advance,

    -brian
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like the Coolant Temp Sensor is bad. That's not the T-stat, it's an electronic sensor that tells the ECU what temp the car is running at so it can compensate for it with the fuel mixture.

    -mike
  • firemanandyfiremanandy Member Posts: 2
    My 2006 Forester stopped a week ago. After it was towed to Subaru I was informed that the reason the engine clanged to a stop is that there was carbon buildup in the engine. While I do have 67,000 miles on this less than 3 year old car I have also had four other Subs and have never had a major problem. Sommechanics I have talked to said this "carbon" explanation sounds bogus. Any suggestions on the issue and also how to deal with Subaru?
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    A friend's Element began to run poorly and suffered a drop in mpg at 30K and continued to 60K when it got so bad she took it the dealer. It was diagnosed with carbon build up on the valves. They offered a chemical treatment, very costly but cheaper than a mechanical repair. The Element ran better for awhile but then the problems appeared again. By then she had given it to her daughter and I don't know what happened to it.
    You say your Forester "clanged" to a stop, and titled your post with "seizure". That sounds like mechanical failure, not carbon build up.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yeah sounds like a rod or timing belt issue.

    -mike
  • dengosadengosa Member Posts: 4
    I need your help please.
    I purchased a 99 Forester last September. Immediately I notice a oil leak. I replaced a head gasket.
    I took the car to multiple repair shops to get few opinions but the guy who did head gasket did not think there was anything wrong with the engine. He did a test on compression rings and he said they were fine.
    But now, it is very obvious that the engine is burning oil.
    When I start the car, there is ridiculous amount of smoke comes out. It stays smoking for about 5minutes or so and then it stops.
    I have read other discussions similar problem.
    I came to a conclusion that doing the valve job is the best solution for me.
    If anybody has advise for me, I would really appreciate it.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    It could be valve seals are leaking and allowing oil into intake manifold.
    Compression test would not find leaking valve seals.

    I had similar problems with two other cars.

    Also, one of the "high mileage" oil additives could help for the short term.
  • dengosadengosa Member Posts: 4
    So, basically, I need to have "volve job: done, right??

    How much does that cost usually???

    And I read on the yahoo that not all mechanic would do this kind of job.
    so for me to find the "right " repairman, what are the things I need to ask???
  • dengosadengosa Member Posts: 4
    I bought 99 Subaru Forester last year and now it is burning oil.
    well, so I was told.

    What can I do? Somepople say I need "Valve job" done. Some people say it wont fix the rpoblem, or they can not tell what it is that causes..

    Do I really need to look into replacing the motor???

    Please help.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    I'll try to be clearer about the potential problem....if any other Subaru crew folks wish to correct me please do so. :confuse:

    Short of holed pistons or cylinder walls :sick: there are only two ways Oil can get into the combustion chamber: from the bottom (past the piston rings), or from the top (from the valve/camshaft area).

    The compression test you had suggests the piston rings are ok. This suggests oil's getting into combustion chamber from valve/camshaft (valve block) area.

    Valve rockers, valve stems, and camshafts are lubed by engine oil. The only "passages" between those parts, and the valve surfaces doing the actual combustion chamber sealing, are drilled passages in the valve block. Seals sitting at the top (camshaft side) of the passages "wipe" oil off the valve stems and keep it from leaking into the cylinders.

    If those seals go bad, then vacuum in either exhaust or intake manifolds will pull oil from camshaft area into cylinders where it gets burned.

    Two general rules: If it smokes when you are accelerating, the intake valve seals may be bad. If it smokes when you are deaccelerating, the exhaust valve seals may be bad.
  • dengosadengosa Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for your response.
  • shirleytshirleyt Member Posts: 1
    I have 86,000 on my Forester SUV - Check Engine light was on - and it didn't have the pickup it once had. Dealer replaced the catalitic converter - is this normal after only 86,000 miles - always use Regular Gas in it! Any thoughts on this?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    We don't really have enough info to go by, but that seems pretty early for a Cat failure.

    Though if you have a misfire (which would trigger a check-engine light) and keep driving for a long period of time the unburned fuel that gets through would eventually clog it up.
  • jeep1988jeep1988 Member Posts: 40
    My 2006 Forester has 48,000 miles on it. When traveling at 55 miles and hour, there is a thumping sound coming from the engine when I accelerate.

    It is not from the wind, because it is only when I hit the gas pedal.

    My questions is: Does anyone have any ideas of what it might be? When I say thumping, it is like a fan blade or some plastic that flaps in the wind. I know it is not that, I has that checked out? Thanks. :sick:
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Tires?
    Axles?
    CV Joints?

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm thinking tires also. See if the wheel well liners are loose and rubbing up against the tires.

    That happened to my Miata after a visit to the body shop - they didn't secure the fender liner properly at first.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Along those lines the undertray could also be loose from an oil change too.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • 2subarufam2subarufam Member Posts: 2
    Hello,

    My wife's 2004 Forester has 63,000 miles and today she said the engine started to vibrate, and a little later smelled a burning smell. She checked the car when she got home and didn't notice anything. I started the engine and noticed that the 2 fans behind the radiator were cycling on and off (about every 30 seconds) while idling. I know my 2006 does not do this. I took the car for a drive, and after about 6-7 miles, I experienced the same thing - engine vibration, as well as a little loss of power.

    Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
  • champ8champ8 Member Posts: 3
    Just found out from my local mech. that my 2003 Forester has a leaky head gasket (drivers' side). Because of the head gasket issues prior to 2001, I called Subaru customer service, but because my forester's got 125,000 miles on her, the guy said "tough luck" (just paraphrasing). He said I should first get a dealer to officially diagnose the prob and then Subaru will review the case.

    What are my chances of getting a little help with the (gasp!) cost??
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    To be fair that is very high mileage... I mean, even if you had bought the most expensive extended warranty you would not be covered.

    See if they will pay for parts, and you pay for labor.

    Honestly, if they offer any discount at all I think they're being generous.

    125k is more than double the promised 60k powertrain warranty.
  • tanagertanager Member Posts: 16
    I have a 2004 Forester XT with 105K miles on it, and today I found out that my connecting rod is knocking into the block and that my engine is basically shot. I am devastated. I have had my share of problems with this car, but I love it, and this is disappointing beyond belief. I have been excessively diligent with the maintenance on this vehicle and I have all records to prove it. I bought it in 2006 and it had 58K miles on it then. I have put a lot of miles on this car in the last 2.5 years, but is there any reason why such an important component of the engine would go bad so soon when the car has been well taken care of? What on earth should I do? My mechanic estimates that a rebuilt engine will probably cost me about 3K.
  • champ8champ8 Member Posts: 3
    So, chances are not great that Subaru will take pity on my high mileage Forester with the leaky head gasket. There were references earlier in the forum to stop-leak products used by dealerships, and I'm wondering if they are a viable way to get another 50,000 miles out of my car without fixing the gasket. As a temporary measure now, would an additive allow me to fix the leak later?

    Anyone have real world experiences with stop-leak products?
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... 2004 Forester XT with 105K miles... my connecting rod is knocking into the block... I bought it in 2006 and it had 58K miles on it... is there any reason why such an important component of the engine would go bad so soon..."

    This results from very worn or damaged big end bearings. It is likely that the first owner abused the engine for the first half of its life by frequent boost and infrequent oil changes.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    I used stop leak products decades ago. They coat the whole cooling system with a residue to stop a pin hole leak at one point in it. The coating can reduce the cooling capacity of the radiator.
  • champ8champ8 Member Posts: 3
    Just thought I'd update on my 2003 Forester with the leaky head gaskets.

    Called Subaru and they kindly agreed to pay HALF the cost of replacing the gaskets, even though the warrantee extension only applied through the '02 models. Apparently the 03's are not entirely free of the problem.

    I was very happy with the agreement, since I was sure I'd be out of luck completely. I had to pay the bill up front and am now waiting for reimbursement.

    Moral: It doesn't hurt to ask.
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Member Posts: 402
    Congrats on that! :)
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Sweet and congrats to Subaru for doing right by the customer. Although they were under no obligation to help out, by doing so they demonstrate their willingness to stand behind their product.

    -Frank
  • ruskyrusky Member Posts: 2
    Hey,
    Just bought a manual 1999 2.0 turbo S. Seems to splutter when accelerating hardish from low revs, replaced air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and ignition leads to find it still has the same fault. Engine/ turbo pulls like a train once it hits around 3000rpm but anything under that in 2nd or above gears engine is very jittery and almost misfiring although the engine management light does not come on at all...If you lightly accelerate in this rev range it is ok but maybe still a bit jerky when you take your foot off the accelerator pedal????
    Any help would be appreciated as i have fallen for this car and want to enjoy it!!!

    Cheers
    Russell
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    I would first try running some fuel system cleaner through it on a couple of back to back tanks.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Just bought a manual 1999 2.0 turbo S

    I assume that you bought a Forester since that's the name of the topic. In the U.S. the Forester has always had the 2.5 litre engine and didn't get the turbo until 2004. What country are you in?

    -Frank
  • ruskyrusky Member Posts: 2
    Hey Frank, It is a forester 2.0 turbo S, registered 1999 in England but is now with me in Bonny Scotland, Edinburgh. Have been struggling to find anyone who would have a clue about these apart from some impreza sites in the uk which cost a small fortune to join up.

    Put a new Mass Air Flow sensor on it yesterday, this has made a difference to overall pick up and it does respond better now although the original fault is still there around 2000rpm, is smooth if a small amount of throttle is given but if you plant the loud pedal it stutters away until it reaches the magic 3000rpm turbo range... engine revs like a dream not in gear, rev pickup is rapid and purrs like a kitten on idle but only when under load and on the over run around this rev range it is jerky ????
    Will Put some fuel cleaner in it tomorrow and i will clean out the throttle body, have done some small checks for air leaks but nothing apparant at a glance?

    I know this car can run better and its so frustrating not being able to drive it smoothly.

    Cheers
    Russell
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Score!

    Good going, and thanks for sharing the tip.
  • quincy57quincy57 Member Posts: 3
    Yesterday I was driving my 2004 Subaru Forester on a highway at about 60-65 mph, and when I put my foot on the brake the car did not slow down!

    We bought this car used from a Subaru dealer, for my 18 yo daughter, in May 08 -- with 45K miles on it. Have put about 6K on it since.

    I should say that I am not at all knowledgeable about the workings of cars. Anyway, as I pressed my foot down on the brake still harder, I encountered quite a bit of resistance but could struggle to get the speed down to about 40 mph. Twice, the car started to accelerate again for a few seconds, on its own. Fortunately there were very few cars on the road, but I was on the Sawmill River Parkway (north of NYC), which is narrow, winding, and has no shoulders. I drove this way for about 2? miles to an exit with a long straight ramp with a broad grassy area to the right. Once on the grass, the car slowed to something under 30 mph -- wasn't really focusing on the speedometer! First I tried putting the car in Neutral, which caused the engine to roar. And then, as I was approaching another road, I just put the car in Park. (No, I didn't even think about the emergency brake.) The car then came to a fairly abrupt stop and began to smoke and smell terribly.

    The car was towed to a Subaru dealership, where it won't be diagnosed until Monday morning. I don't know if it's meaningful, but the key is now stuck in the ignition -- and when you turn the key the electrical system seems to go a little crazy -- lights go on and then shut off, etc. I fear that the braking and stopping caused significantly more damage and expense.

    While this was happening, I was thinking that the brakes weren't working. Now I realize that the brakes were just fighting against an engine that would not quit. Seems so extreme -- and for a Subaru?!

    It does not appear that anything was interfering with the accelerator pedal. No mat, for example. The Subaru sales people offered the opinion that the idle was high. Whatever that means.

    Anyway, anyone have any opinions or suggestions? What questions should I be asking? How will I ever let my daughter drive this car again? (Please don't tell me about all the things I should have done or did wrong!) Have you heard of anything like this before? Thank goodness my daughter was not driving at the time.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm trying to tink if the 04 has drive by wire or not. Drive by wire is a solenoid that electronically controls the throttle (almost all new cars have this now). The Solenoid could have gotten stuck (pehaps in the cold weather we've been having?). My initial thought would be that the pedal was being depressed by a misplaced mat, i've seen this A LOT. Another thing it coud be is the throttle intake could have been jammed open by something or by a failure of a part in there. Without looking at it, it's hard to diagnose.

    The smoke and key issue are due to the fact that you put it in park you probably at the least popped the parking pin. For future reference P=N your best bet would have been to put it in N and and turn the engine off! That would have let you glide to a stop the brakes would still work, although with slightly less power.

    The smoke was probably from the brakes fighting the engine, so that's not a big deal.

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • quincy57quincy57 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, Mike. Appreciate your input -- will now have some things to talk about with the mechanics. (fyi -- no mat near pedals) I also tried putting the car in neutral almost right away, while still on the highway, but the roaring engine scared me -- so I put the thing back into drive. I don't know why I didn't just turn the car off -- esp once on the grass. Somehow that just seemed like the most dangerous or damaging course of action. Anyway, my first few seconds were taken up with coming to grips with the circumstances . . . and going through the mental process of "I AM in an automatic . . . which has TWO pedals . . . my foot IS on the left-hand pedal, and that IS the brake." I have been driving for 36 yrs with no mishaps or even a breakdown -- at the very least, this served as a wake-up call that things can go terribly wrong.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    I agree that it was an engine issue, but no way to tell what caused the revving you experienced. It would have had to be pushing pretty hard to nearly mitigate your braking efforts. It could have been caused by a mechanical or electronic failure. In situations like these, the only thing that really can be said is, "at least you are okay!"

    Le us know what, if anything, the shop indicates as a possible culprit.

    You can always turn an engine off while a vehicle is moving, but remember to only turn the key "one click" away from the 'on' position - do not turn it to 'lock' (or remove the key), or you will likely lose steering control. It will take greater effort to press the brake pedal and turn the wheel when the engine is off, but you can stop the car.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • quincy57quincy57 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you! I'll pass this on to all drivers in the family.
  • sjtwxgirlsjtwxgirl Member Posts: 1
    I have a Forester XT 2004 model with a bad turbo...Firestone ran diagnostic on it. Anyway, they could not get cost estimate yet for new turbo and no Subaru dealership within 3 hours of where I live. Curious...any ballpark figure on replacing the turbo? I'm considering dumping the thing if the cost is higher than $2-3 K to fix...has oil leak, needs new windshield as well.
  • cz75cz75 Member Posts: 210
    Subaru has had head gasket problems for quite a while, so they probably won't do what is right, considering they can't seem to fix the issue.
  • cz75cz75 Member Posts: 210
    I'd say a turbo would be $500-600 plus labor if you can find the model you need on the aftermarket from its OEM manufacturer, but it probably would be $2000+ at a Subaru dealer. I'm damned glad I had second thoughts about Subaru and got another Honda.
  • cz75cz75 Member Posts: 210
    NASIOC.com would be a good place to get help. You can get a good idea about all the maintenance problems involved with owning a Subaru there, even if you live in the UK.
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