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What is the opinions about a rebuilt or used or a used JDM?
The fact, it´s doing 18 MPG, i can not see the Check Engine Light in the panel when turn the key before starting. Is it possible it is disconnected now? if yes, how do i turn it on back again?
The Subaru dealer here, they told me that USA version has problems with the Oxygen sensor, instead off the Japanese ones.
What can i do with the consumption?
Get an OBDII code reader, and scan it for error codes. That will give you the best clues as to what's going on.
I know that certain Miata owners that race their cars simply drill a hole to break the bulb to help them ignore check-engine lights, so it can be done.
And it is ON in yellow color, the mechanic told me is showing Fail in the O2 Sensor # 1, but recommended to me to get both sensors (Forester S 2002) but to ask for sensors to places where the Gas is not so pure and is mixed with Alcohol (Ethanol) like here in Colombia .
VIN # JF1SF65502H707396
Con somebody help me? Is it true?? How do i Turn the CEL off?
Thanks to you.
It could be working, though, and reporting a problem upstream, like a misfire. If that's the case it's spark or fuel - plugs, plug wires, ignition coil, etc.
Can you borrow a code reader to get the code? I'll lend you mine if you're in the DC area.
For sure i´ll get both O2 Sensors and change them.
I´m in Bogotá Colombia, so i´m going to get one from USA (buy) what brand and type is better? I mean to reset CEL and other functions like check emissions.
Once again thank you.
Make sure you get one that can read and reset codes. The cheapest ones only read the codes.
A loud crackling noise, seems to come from catalytic converter but not 100% sure. Was initially only happening when I turned off engine but now happens when idleing, at warm up or after driving for awhile.
after turning off engine the loud crackling goes on for 2-3 minutes.
thanks for any help
And a properly tight heat shield may crackle but will be unable to rattle.
Cracking sounds in the exhaust system can occur both as it is heating up and cooling down. It is the sound of pipes and shields tightly fastened to each other and expanding and contracting at different rates.
My 2003 Forester has 148,000 miles on it. For the past 6 months, it had hesitated, and sputtered and backfired. It "chugged" and then finally kind of "kicked in" and had good acceleration. During this time, the check engine light had been on. My mechanic (not a Subaru dealership) first replaced the spark plug wires, which seemed to help just a bit for just a while. It became as bad as before, and then he replaced the spark plugs this time. He said the check engine light was on (constantly) for "some environmental code" and that there "must be some dust in it....don't worry about it."
The new spark plugs helped immensely, and I thought it was fixed. But a few times this summer, I would go to start it, and when I turned the key, the dash lights came on, but it just clicked -- the engine didn't turn over at all. Then, within a minute at the most, I would try again and the engine would come on perfectly.
A few weeks ago, the blower quit entirely (no air conditioning, no heat, no defrost) And in Minnesota, it would not be out of the question to need all 3 of those features in one day!! So I had a used blower put it, which I now regret (though it "saved" about $240 at the time). The new (used) blower seems VERY weak, and it's not cooling the car very well (past few days have been mid- 80's to low 90 and extremely humid). Also, it seems like there is an odd sputtery sort of noise under the hood. It's just running louder when it's idling since bringing it home with this blower.
Finally, today, I went to start it, while it was in my very hot and very humid garage, and it didn't start (same as before -- just a click and dash lights on). I tried intermittently for about 10 minutes and if finally started. I ran some errands, started and stopped it about 4-5 times. 3 hours later, I went to start it and the same thing. It didn't start for 20 minutes this time, and finally didi start. I drove it straight to my mechanic, who will see it tomorrow.
Is this all related? Does anyone know what is happening or what I should do next?Any advice at all is greatly appreciated. I've had somewhat regular oil changes (every 3000 - 6000 miles). Sorry this is so long, and thank you.
ABE67
I strongly suspect that your problems center around your camshaft and crankshaft sensors... possibly the knock sensor as well. These sensors are all in the $50-60 range, but are incredibly easy to replace (especially so for the crank/cam sensors... the knock sensor is a little more difficult to access).
While I did not have outward problems with my sensors originally, I did have that no-start situation you describe for *years* (really frustrating). My knock sensor went out one day and caused the car to run awful, so I replaced all three sensors at the same time. Not only did the car run perfectly again, but I never experienced the no-start situation again.
It may be worth a shot. That said, if you have a check engine light on, get it read out and write down / relay the codes!
I mention that since the spark plugs helped. A new coil cleared a CEL for me after some chipmunks ate some wiring in my engine harness.
He tested some things - I'm not sure of what exactly -- and he determined it was not the starter or the alternator. He thought the battery was somewhat weak, and that it turned over "a little quicker" with a new one. So he wanted me to drive it a week or so with the new battery (didn't want me to pay for it yet) to see how it's working.
So I've driven it for 2 days and it's backfiring, sluggish and "catching" around corners. It chugs when I slow down, and then lurches when it gets power. The check engine light is constantly on. This evening, it DID NOT START at all for me again (after driving it all around all afternoon, starting and stopping multiple times). It didn't start for an hour and I left it for another 3 hours. Still doesn't start. Doesn't turn over at all - just clicks and the dash lights come on.
When I bring it (tow it) in Monday morning, I'll plan to share the suggestions that have been made here and see if he has checked those things yet. Someone else suggested to me that a "transmission flush" might help. Does anyone think it might?
Thanks again, and I will share your suggestions with my mechanic. He knows I know nothing about cars, so I'll mention I was on this site. I do believe he's trying to figure it out honestly for me.
ABE67
Because of the backfires, especially, I believe this issue is engine-related only. The transmission can only work with the power it gets from the engine.
This because i tested with CAN OBD2 3130 after changing both O2 sensors, and erased the DTC, now the code reader has O2, EVA and CAT blinking; but shows no DTC codes.
I wrote to the manufacturer of the reader and answered me: "When a monitor icon is flashing it means that the PCM has not tested that particular system yet. The only way to set those monitors to a "done" status is by driving the vehicle until the requirements for that monitor have been met. To speed up the process you can perform a drive cycle. A drive cycle is a set of instructions for your particular vehicle that tells you how to drive in order to meet all of the monitor requirements. This information can be found in a service repair manual for your make of vehicle. Once the PCM sees that the enabling criteria have been met, it will test the system and set the monitor. "
Don't they just mean on, full warm up, drive, off?
A late entry, but good for everyone. Check out http://autotap.com/ . They do a very good job of explaining how a lot of electronic stuff works with the OBD II stuff. Generally a drive cycle is so many miles. Like 50-100. Prevents someone from resetting the computer/light and then getting a safety sticker!
Not sure I would trust that reader. I would do a drive cycle which you probably have done by now! Anyway, check out Autotap. So far, my smarts have kept me from having to buy OBD II tools. This is what I would buy if and when I need to.
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
The sound is a loose rattling timing chain. The check ball in one of the two tensioners on the left chain does not seat and allows the new thin weight oil to drain out overnight. That relaxes that tensioner, which makes a noise against the chain on a cold start. When the oil gets going after a couple of seconds, it refills the tensioner which stops the noise.
Dealers have a TSB on it:
---------------
Service Bulletin # 02-113-11 Pages: 3
Bulletin Description: If you encounter a customer complaint that there is a knock type sound in the engine for about one second on initial start-up after the vehicle has been parked for an extended period of time, there is the possibility the left side timing chain tensioner is causing the sound. If the check ball within the tensioner doesn’t seat completely, it may cause the tensioner to leak down, decreasing the amount of pressure to the timing chain guide.
The sound is non-detrimental and has no effect on the reliability and durability of the engine.
While we do not recommend disassembling the front of the engine for replacement, the sound can be eliminated by exchanging the original left side tensioner with a modified one.
------------------
Recently Subaru has been providing dealers with kits to replace the tensioner with one that will not leak down.
I inquired about getting it with the Nav system and what dealer said was really alarming:
"I don't have one-we try not to stock them as they have the worst navi in the industry-they offer a tom tom option in the premiums because their own is so bad. Any time a manufacturer offers another companies product it indicates their lack of confidence in their own product-they do not offer the tom tom in the ltd-their own is at least 5 year old technology and not user friendly."
Any truth to this? Anybody have bad experiences with these nav systems?
The 7" screen is pretty standard for the class, and the rendering of maps is actually a little better than average. Check the CNET reviews for a good video review - nothing special, but better rendering than Honda or Mitsubishi in this price range. Watch the CNET reviews, you can actually see the street names being rendered.
I had a big beef with earlier models (2009 in my case) because it didn't have a backup cam yet cost a bunch, and the maps were outdated. Both have since been addressed.
Offering Tom Tom is about giving the consumer choices, including a cheap way to get a backup cam.
You can even get an OEM backup cam on Premium/Limited models without getting Navi at all.
Kudos to Subaru for offering up options.
Having said all that, $1800 is steep, and for about $1000 you can get a better aftermarket system. It just won't be as well integrated - will your steering wheel controls still work? Warranty also may not cover it.
I suggest sampling the backup cam sans Navi, and then just get a good portable GPS.
I bought a 2011 STi and eneded up installing a Kenwood absolute top of the line unit for $1200. Steering wheel control units now will integrate them pretty darn well. For the $ I wouldn't get an OEM system unless it's a lease or you are super concerned about the warranty on the radio itself.
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
Did the steering wheel controls require an added adaptor?
May as well spend another $100 or so on a backup cam kit, too.
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
Are there other benefits to buying a 2010 over the 2011 or visa versa?
The 2011 has a timing chain instead of a belt, but the belt is supposed to be changed every 105k miles and probably will cost you one tenth of your savings.
The 2011 also gains 1 mpg, but again, $7 grand buys a lifetime of gas.
If you keep the 2010 long enough (80,000-100,000 miles) you might be unlucky enough to experience a head gasket failure that would use part of the price difference. The 2011 is expected to have solved that potential problem; it has several design differences.
I bought an XT in 2010 which has a different block from the naturally aspirated model to avoid that problem. I didn't mind the improved performance which came with the additional cost of premium fuel.
Now, at 140k, if it sits for 4+ hours and the engine cools off, it will slap everytime. I use exclusively 10w-30 synthetic.
Supposedly, this is "factory" and "fine" although many complaints have been voiced over the years.
John
The way of driving has no effect. The 2010 engine is the least likely of all the old EJ engines to have a head gasket leak. It has a redesigned head gasket that only fits that year.
The new 2011 FB engine was redesigned to separate the cooling of the head from the rest of the engine. The head gasket between the block and the head was then no longer the weak point in the cooling system
Even if the issue is "just" piston slap, the concern expressed by the mechanic and the dealer's own lack of credibility (after all, this is the same place that totaled your car in the first place!) means you likely will have more than a few headaches down the road.
Got a CEL and VDC light a few weeks ago while in the midst of a 3rd gear WOT kickdown.
When I had the code checked, it stated the engine ran too lean for a bit. Was this simply due to going from cruising at 30mph to nailing it to pass this other car at 60?
Both lights went out on their own after 2-3 seconds and the car is running fine. Thoughts? Is this just a case of a sensor detecting something out of range for a split second, then seeing that it's cleared up and shutting off the CEL and merely storing the code?
I should mention it did it again last night, same exact scenario. Floored it to pass someone and got the CEL light blinking. VCD light was on as well ( I'm assuming it was temp disabled during CEL ).. CEL and VDC light went out after around 10 seconds. Car ran fine the whole time, no hiccups, no loss of power.
ECU issue?
I think so. The CEL would have stored a DTC for the dealer to see. Take it in. Leanness when demanding WOT could result in less than full power when it is needed most.