Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
By the way, do you have window tint on your rear window?
Only thing that puzzles me is why there is a separate pin for this when the REM could have been used instead? Is the B+ 12v? I think it is most probably 5v (just like the set top box or the satellite radio) but then in the specifications there's nothing mentioned about a tuner booster!? I have a converter for 5v (cigarette type for 3$) which supplies power for the hard drive and I can use it to power also the booster
I'll check the previous posts as I remember some time ago there was a big discussion on the booster thing. If anyone can shed some light I will be more than grateful!
Good luck and let us know what you find out.
I have cover on my 07 & my Azzy is still the best car for money I paid.
The MBA comes swaggering in wearing a snazzy suit & says that if they don't install that part, they would save about 5x50k=250k a year, while forgetting the reliability consequences of not including that part.
Guess who wins? Let me give you a hint: not the Engineer.
van
What did they charge for yours? Also does it cover the sub & the rest of the package tray or just the sub.
Your help would be great.
Dave
Another option (that someone else might have to figure the pin-outs for) is an intermediate harness between the head unit and the pre-amp with a relay-based switch: that is when the relay senses signal from the device, it switches the source from the factory radio to the alternative source. I had a similar issue with an older Mercedes but used a mechanical switch to change the source from the trunk-mounted CD changer to my Sirius radio.
If I can figure this out, I will make a slide-out for my Sirius Sportster for the tray underneath the Limited's Ultimate Nav.
I noticed that the 32 pin connector has two audio inputs for the XM radio:
Pin Signal Name I/O Description
4 AUX_AUDIO_L I XM AUDIO_L Input(L)
20 AUX_AUDIO_R I XM AUDIO_R Input(R)
:confuse: Is the XM unit an outboard unit or built inside the head unit?
:confuse: If it is outboard, perhaps an aux jack can be made to work there.
:confuse: Also, can anyone explain these two ports?
13 CAN_L I/O XM CAN_L
29 CAN_H I/O XM CAN_L
TIA
Sounds like there could be a short. If you want, you can pull the radio out unplug every connection and re-install it making sure all connections are snug and secure. Here's a guide to explain how to remove the head unit...Head Unit Removal Guide
If it still does it, it would seem to be an internal problem with the head unit. Someone once posted on here that the entertainment system doesn't fall under the bumper-to-bumper warranty...if that's the case, you're SOL. At which point, you have two options...look around for an Azera owner such as myself that pulled the factory head unit out and replaced it with an after market unit and has the OEM unit available still...or, simply buy an aftermarket unit with all the bells and whistles you could ask for and swap out your OEM unit. If you're concerned about losing steering wheel control, there's a company that makes interface units so that aftermarket units can be controlled using the steering wheel controls.
There's a lot you can do, it's just a matter of what do you really want to do?
Good luck!
It's pretty much anything goes in regards to what can work in the Azera opening. You can go with a single din (regular sized radio) and end up with a pocket above or below the radio, or you can go with a double din (which is what the OEM unit is if you have the Infinity system).
Kenwood has a very nice unit that has a USB plug on the front...
Kenwood DPX-503
Pioneer has a very nice unit as well...
FH-P800BT
JVC has a nice offering too...
JVC KW-XG700
Checking with a local automotive/marine (supposedly high end) audio system supplier & installer I was told my "sound cut off" problem is a failed Infinity amplifier. I was further told that because my Infinity speakers will only work with the Infinity amp, not only will I have to replace the audio unit, I'll have to replace the speakers too. Does this make sense to you? Why would presumably passive Infinity speakers not be usable as long as the wiring, ohms & etc., all matched up with the new unit? What am I mssing here? Thanks, Eric
Also...if it's cutting off and on, it would seem to be a short somewhere. You could pull all the speakers to make sure all the connections are secure with those as well. Ultimately, if you secure all connections coming off the radio and going to the speakers and at the amp and it still is acting up, it would be an internal issue with the amp.
Anyway, the speakers can be replaced independently of the radio. That's the joy of an outboard amp as opposed to the set-up Bose employs. Heck, if you wanted to, you could by-pass the factory amp if you really wanted to. It would take a bit of work, but you could easily install an aftermarket unit and run speaker wires back to the trunk where the OEM amp is and splice them into the wires that are the output wires from the amp.
As far as replacing speakers go...all the speakers are 2 ohm impedence except for the tweeters. The sub is a dual 4 ohm sub, which creates a 2 ohm load at the amp. However, you can switch up to 4 ohm speakers if you want, there will be a slight drop in output since the impedence will be higher.
I've already provided you with a guide to remove the radio, I also have a guide to replace the door speakers and the center channel speaker if you decide to go that route.
Is this possible? :confuse:
It has been said...anything is possible, question is...how far are you willing to go to make it happen. You would have to find someone that knows how to do it and do it on the side. No reputable shop will do it because they don't want that on their hands should an accident take place, then the owner of the car sues them.
Tell them that you ONLY want what is recommended by Hyundai be done. No 'flushing' or 'additives' BS. Get quotes from other dealerships Infact, Hyundai SPECIFICALLY tells you not to get some of these bogus flushing or additives & you'd risk warranty being voided if something untoward happens. Why would you believe the dealer over the manufacturer (you know, the people who designed, engineered & built the damn car)??
Also, I'm sure that they would have quoted like $50 for Cabin Air Filter replacement & some $60 for Air Filter change. Buy these two OEM Hyundai parts from the parts department & change them yourself. These parts aren't all that expensive & are very very very easy to change. (You don't need any tools or even need to get your hands dirty. The user manual has step-by-step instructions with pictures. It's easier than even putting gas in your car!!). Takes 5 minutes max.
Why can't dealership service departments be honest? Do they always have to be so deceitful?? Do the manufacturer recommended service & stop trying to BS about upsell.
Is there something wrong about earning a honest day's work & not cheating people?? (Sorry, I get a little irritated when I hear stories about people getting screwed at dealerships)
In my opinion, go with the cheaper option as it will take care of everything that needs to be taken care of. With what gasolines have in them these days...you don't need any engine additives, I've driven my Azera for over 77k miles and the door hinges haven't been lubed yet with no squeaks or anything.
Like Wobbly said...you can get an oil filter for under $10 and the cabin filter is around $20...from the dealer. RockAuto.com sells the cabin filter for $10, and it's VERY easy to change out, as is changing the oil.
the plugs.....Cabin air filter on the Azera...go to Wally World and get a disposable AC filter for a home unit....cut it to fit the Azzy....Usually less than $5 and you have enough left over or about 2 additional filters....
Check the maintaince schedule (little folder with mileage and months of service) and you will get a good idea of what is required....
I actually did what you described with the cabin filter just recently. I'm embarassed to admit that this was the first time I changed my cabin filter...simply because I didn't know how until seeing the posts on how to do it. Then I simply got lazy until I started getting a musty odor every time the a/c was turned on.